Nowadays, many people dislike anchovies on pizza, and the dominant topping is pepperoni. However, that wasn't always the case. In fact, anchovies were the first pizza topping in the U.S., and were very common in the early 20th century. And there were people who criticized anyone who didn't like anchovies on their pizza.
Anchovies were common on pizza in Naples before pizza ever came to the U.S. Anchovies were cheap, offered much umami flavor, and could be stored well for a lengthy time. When Neapolitans immigrants brought pizza to the U.S., it was only natural that many of those pizzas would be topped with anchovies. Otherwise, the pizzas were just topped with cheese. Pizza likely came to the U.S. in the late 19th century, although documentation of such first appears in the early 20th century.
One of the first newspaper articles mentioning Neapolitan pizza is found in the Boston Sunday Journal (MA), October 4, 1903. It stated, “Scattered through North and Prince streets and other portions of the Italian colony where Neapolitans congregate are occasional little shops with the words ‘Pizze Cavuie’ on the windows. The words mean simply ‘hot cakes’ in the Neapolitan dialect.” The article continued, “Neapolitans in Boston say that there are few places in the city to which the famous Naples specialty has been successfully transplanted.”
The article also described how the pizza was created, starting with a fat roll of dough that was flattened until was is a little thicker than a pancake and a little larger than an ordinary pie. The top of the pizza was then topped with bits of lard, Roman cheese, cooked tomatoes, and aregata, “.., the spicy, aromatic herb which is a favorite Italian seasoning.” This would have been a blend of dried herbs like oregano, basil, rosemary, and thyme. The pizza would then be put it in an oven for two minutes.
A pizza cost 5-10 cents, dependent on its size. It was also noted that, “In Naples the price ranges from 10 cents down to a penny for little ones containing only a good-sized mouthful. A favorite cry for them at the doors of the bakeries in Naples is “Ca’ pummarola e alice,’ which is dialect for “with tomatoes and anchovy, some of them being made with anchovy there, though the fish is never added here.” So, it appears the first pizza spots in Boston offered only cheese pizza, without any anchovies.
About two years later, a very similar article appeared in the New York Herald (NY), June 18, 1905. It seems that the two articles might have been written by the same person, due to some of the same content, although part of the article was directed to New York. For example, it was said that there were only two places in New York where you could get “real genuine Neapolitan pizza.” It continued, “One is on Spring street and one on Gran. All the rest are Americanized substitutes.”
The article described how the pizza was made, and that mirrored the information from the Boston Sunday Journal article. The article also noted, “Pizze Cavuie means simply hot cakes. You won’t find the words in the dictionary, because they aren’t Italian, but Neapolitan dialect.” It was also said that anchovies weren't yet found on any New York pizzas.
A pizza definition. A book, Explanations of All Terms used in Cooking-Cellaring by Kurt Heppe (1908) provided the definition: “Pizza—a Neapolitan cake with oil, tomatoes and anchovies.” As we see, anchovies were considered a basic component of pizza.
There is then about a twenty year gap then in newspaper coverage concerning pizza, which mentions it numerous times but provides little detail. Anchovies likely became more common during this period, and by the late 1920s, were dominant. There would be a few exceptions during the late 1920s and 1930s, but they were more outliers.
The Buffalo Courier Express (NY), February 6, 1928, mentioned the opening of Dante’s Tavern, and some of their some specials included “pizza d’anchovies, pizza di sardi and pizza di formaggio.” Pizza with anchovies, sardines or cheese.
The Passaic Daily News (NJ), December 13, 1928, noted that pizza was a cake or pie that was topped by tomatoes, anchovies, and cheese.
The American Guardian (OK), May 24, 1929, provided a bit more description. “Pizzeria is a bakery which specializes in pizza, a pie served with anchovies and tomato sauce and dear to the Neapolitan palate.” So, it seems many pizzerias were considered bakeries, and not restaurants. The article also seems to indicate that Neapolitan pizza came with anchovies, an ingredient often mentioned with pizza during this period.
The Record (NJ), July 1, 1933, added that in New York, “A pizza is an Italian pancake which comes in two sizes, the smaller about 14 inches in diameter and the larger fully two feet. With both go tomatoes, anchovies, cheese and other delicacies. The cost is 25 cents for one and 35 cents for the other. The pancakes are baked in a huge brick oven,…”
Pizza in California! The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1933, mentioned that Antonio Farina was “known as the greatest man cook in the Italian quarter…” The article continued, his special dish was pizza, “Pizza, made only in Naples, and Farina is the only man who can make it properly in San Francisco.” It added, "It’s a concoction of special dough, oil, cheese, tomatoes, thyme and many other more mysterious things. Sometimes anchovy is substituted for the cheese.”
The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 21, 1935, mentioned Pizzeria alla Napoletana, located at 147 W. 48th St. Pizza was described as “a dessert that dates back to the early Romans. Pizza requires a special type of oven with the flame coming down from the top, which explains why it is so hard to get in the majority of restaurants…” Pizza as a dessert? This wouldn't be the last time that it would be categorized as such.
The article also noted, “It is made in a great big shallow dish almost as large as a tea tray. And is served in triangles, like slabs of pie.” It continued, “Pizza, as properly prepared, is baked cheese and tomato. Another version consists of cheese, tomatoes, olives and anchovies all baked together.” Again, those anchovies! Finally, it stated, “Pizza is much like pie. Americans often order it by asking for pie. You can combine both techniques, by asking the waiter for ‘a pizza pie."
The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), April 26, 1935, provided a recipe for Italian Pie, or Pizza, and you can see anchovies were one of the ingredients. Other ingredients included tomatoes, garlic, cloves, pepper and olive oil. But, no cheese.
The Brooklyn Eagle (NY), September 6, 1935, had an PIC of ad for Colucci’s Pizzeria, noting it sold “Pizza with mazzarella, anchovies, fried pepper, mushrooms.” This is the first mention I found of adding mushrooms to a pizza.
The New York Post (NY), September 20, 1935, ran an article with the above title. The article stated, “The anchovy wing of pizza lovers rose up in protest today at the disclosure that a cop yesterday ate three Italian pizza which were not garnished and garlanded with anchovies.” It was also noted, “The glorious pizza, they said, is not at its best if it is made largely of cheese, or if sardines are substituted for anchovies.” H. Paynter, a “culinary sage of Riverdale,” was quoted as saying, “Without anchovies the otherwise delectable pizza is a barbarous dish fit for savages who would gobble sparrows uncooked and with the feathers on.” Mayor Laguardi was also asked for his opinion on this pizza matter and he stated, “They’re too doughy for my taste…But if you want my recipe, here it is. A piece of dough, cheese, tomatoes and anchovies.”
The Asbury Park Press (NJ), March 5, 1936, printed an ad for Jerrys Tavern, noting "During Lent Try One of Jerry’s Pizza With Anchovies.”
The Hartford Courant (CT), March 19, 1936, mentioned, “The pizza cook cannot be any Italian. He must be a Neapolitan, for only in Naples does it reach its perfection. There is at least one Neapolitan making pizza in Hartford, and he’s an artist at his trade.” The article continued, “The foundation for pizza is a round piece of Italian bread dough…the filling, which consists of a layer of parmesan cheese, a layer of tomato paste, a generous scattering of grated red peppers, and a thorough dosing of olive oil. On top, anchovies are generally scattered.”
A pizza recipe was provided in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1937. It stated you could buy bread dough at an Italian bakery or make your own. Then, you greased a baking sheet with olive oil and spread the dough on the sheet. Next, you placed pieces of anchovies on the dough, and then added a half-can of tomatoes, pepper, a sprinkling of savory, and top it all with olive oil. Curiously, no cheese was used in this recipe.
The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), June 22, 1937, stated that you should check out Lupo’s restaurant, a true Neapolitan food spot, to eat pizza. “A young fellow was working at a table rolling and smacking a piece of dough into a circle about twelve inches across. Then he put bits of lard on it, tomato sauce and anchovies (or mozzarella cheese, which was introduced into California by the father of Al Santoro, the sports writer), sprinkled it with the herb basil and parmesan cheese, lifted it with a wooden scoop and set it in the flaming oven.” The pizza then cooked for about 10 minutes.
Another recipe. The Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph (PA), July 7, 1937, provided a pizza recipe from Henry Armetta, a “famous movie actor” and master cook. The recipe stated that a pizza would be topped with “cut-up tomatoes, anchovies, French cheese, and sprinkle all over with olive oil and ‘aregano’, pepper and salt.”
The Times Herald Record (NY), August 19, 1937, had an advertisement for a Pizzeria on Prince and the pizza was “Furnished with Cheese. Fresh Tomato or Anchovies.”
The Owens Valley Progress Citizen (CA), November 26, 1937, mentioned Lupo's restaurant, which I previously mentioned. The article noted, “Tried a new dish at Lupo’s Restaurant Neapolitan Pizzeria on Kearny Street and was introduced to pizza (pronounced pizzsta) an Italian concoction that’s baked in an oven, contains the amazing combination of lard, tomato sauce, anchovies, mozzarella cheese and parmesan cheese. You eat it hot, and like pie.”
Another recipe. The Miami Herald (FL), April 1, 1938, provided a recipe from a Miami woman of Italian descent. It was mentioned, “Pizza Napoletana is an unusual bread, layered with tomatoes and anchovies and sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, thyme and pepper and brushed over with olive oil before baking.”
The Los Angeles Examiner (CA), October 21, 1938, provided a recipe for “Pizza (Hot Bread)." Once again, anchovies were a listed ingredient.
The Record (NJ), January 10, 1939, reported that a legal question had arisen, whether female waitresses could be employed at a pizzeria on the basis it was a restaurant, or whether they were prohibited because pizzerias were taverns. Female waitresses were not permitted to work at taverns. D. Frederick Burnett, the State Alcoholic Beverage Control Commissioner, conducted a scholarly study of the pizzeria business, and then concluded that whether a pizzeria was a restaurant, tavern or ordinary bakeshop under State liquor law depended on the nature of the establishment. It would be judged on a case by case basis.
Burnett wrote “In Naples, of course, everyone knows that a Pizzeria is a place where dough pies, embroidered with tomatoes, anchovies or mozzarella (a cheese indited to the kid goat), and embellished with peppers and garlic, are made and baked while you wait.” He continued, “Talking strictly Neapolitan, a pizzeria is a shop specializing in the baking of pizza to order. The fact that it is consumed before it cools, does not convert the shop into a restaurant. Rather it is a tribute to gastronomical judgment. Nor does its solubility in wine change a tavern either into a restaurant or a bake shop merely because it installs an oven to serve its patrons."
The Journal (CT), January 28, 1939, ran an article from the Philadelphia Record. It noted that pizza was a "new delicacy." It added, “What is pizza? Well, it’s just a big open-faced pie, filled with tomatoes, anchovies, mozzarella, cheese, peppers, or what have you—and baked while you wait. You name your own delicacy and the pizza baker will drop it in. Then it comes out of the oven—all golden brown and crisp,…”
Their chef was Anthony Camposano and he provided a recipe. Anchovies are mentioned, but so is bacon as a possible topping. Finally, it was mentioned that pizza should only be eaten with your hands, and not any silverware.
The Central New Jersey Home News (NJ), February 22, 1939, printed this ad for the Neapolitan Kitchen, noting that Pizza came with a choice of cheese, anchovies or mushrooms.
The Boston Herald, March 6, 1939, provided a recipe, which entailed you making your own dough. The pizza was topped by onion, Parmesan cheese, pepper, canned tomatoes, olive oil and anchovies.
The Boston Globe (MA), July 28, 1939, provided a recipe for Pizza Neapolitena, noting four toppings for the pizza, which you could use individually or in any combination. Those choices included cheese, anchovies, sausage, and sardines.
The Daily Times (Iowa), October 19, 1939, had a brief review of a cookbook, Herbs for the Kitchen by Irma Goodrich Mazza. The cookbook was “devoted entirely to dishes which the author believes taste better when herbs are used.” In a recipe from Naples, pizza was noted as “—a raised bread dough covered lightly with anchovies, tomato and marjoram and baked in a hot oven.”
The Fitchburg Sentinel (MA), October 26, 1939, printed the above ad for the Fairmount Café, which offered Pizza with Anchovies for 40 cents.
The Dayton Daily News (OH), October 26, 1939, mentioned Lupo’s restaurant in San Francisco, and the article stated; the pizza was “spread with olive oil or lard, anchovies or ham, tomato paste and cheese sometimes of several types.”
The Buffalo Courier Express (NY), February 6, 1928, mentioned the opening of Dante’s Tavern, and some of their some specials included “pizza d’anchovies, pizza di sardi and pizza di formaggio.” Pizza with anchovies, sardines or cheese.
The Passaic Daily News (NJ), December 13, 1928, noted that pizza was a cake or pie that was topped by tomatoes, anchovies, and cheese.
The American Guardian (OK), May 24, 1929, provided a bit more description. “Pizzeria is a bakery which specializes in pizza, a pie served with anchovies and tomato sauce and dear to the Neapolitan palate.” So, it seems many pizzerias were considered bakeries, and not restaurants. The article also seems to indicate that Neapolitan pizza came with anchovies, an ingredient often mentioned with pizza during this period.
The Record (NJ), July 1, 1933, added that in New York, “A pizza is an Italian pancake which comes in two sizes, the smaller about 14 inches in diameter and the larger fully two feet. With both go tomatoes, anchovies, cheese and other delicacies. The cost is 25 cents for one and 35 cents for the other. The pancakes are baked in a huge brick oven,…”
Pizza in California! The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), July 27, 1933, mentioned that Antonio Farina was “known as the greatest man cook in the Italian quarter…” The article continued, his special dish was pizza, “Pizza, made only in Naples, and Farina is the only man who can make it properly in San Francisco.” It added, "It’s a concoction of special dough, oil, cheese, tomatoes, thyme and many other more mysterious things. Sometimes anchovy is substituted for the cheese.”
The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), January 21, 1935, mentioned Pizzeria alla Napoletana, located at 147 W. 48th St. Pizza was described as “a dessert that dates back to the early Romans. Pizza requires a special type of oven with the flame coming down from the top, which explains why it is so hard to get in the majority of restaurants…” Pizza as a dessert? This wouldn't be the last time that it would be categorized as such.
The article also noted, “It is made in a great big shallow dish almost as large as a tea tray. And is served in triangles, like slabs of pie.” It continued, “Pizza, as properly prepared, is baked cheese and tomato. Another version consists of cheese, tomatoes, olives and anchovies all baked together.” Again, those anchovies! Finally, it stated, “Pizza is much like pie. Americans often order it by asking for pie. You can combine both techniques, by asking the waiter for ‘a pizza pie."
The Hartford Courant (CT), March 19, 1936, mentioned, “The pizza cook cannot be any Italian. He must be a Neapolitan, for only in Naples does it reach its perfection. There is at least one Neapolitan making pizza in Hartford, and he’s an artist at his trade.” The article continued, “The foundation for pizza is a round piece of Italian bread dough…the filling, which consists of a layer of parmesan cheese, a layer of tomato paste, a generous scattering of grated red peppers, and a thorough dosing of olive oil. On top, anchovies are generally scattered.”
A pizza recipe was provided in the Boston Globe, January 2, 1937. It stated you could buy bread dough at an Italian bakery or make your own. Then, you greased a baking sheet with olive oil and spread the dough on the sheet. Next, you placed pieces of anchovies on the dough, and then added a half-can of tomatoes, pepper, a sprinkling of savory, and top it all with olive oil. Curiously, no cheese was used in this recipe.
The San Francisco Call Bulletin (CA), June 22, 1937, stated that you should check out Lupo’s restaurant, a true Neapolitan food spot, to eat pizza. “A young fellow was working at a table rolling and smacking a piece of dough into a circle about twelve inches across. Then he put bits of lard on it, tomato sauce and anchovies (or mozzarella cheese, which was introduced into California by the father of Al Santoro, the sports writer), sprinkled it with the herb basil and parmesan cheese, lifted it with a wooden scoop and set it in the flaming oven.” The pizza then cooked for about 10 minutes.
Another recipe. The Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph (PA), July 7, 1937, provided a pizza recipe from Henry Armetta, a “famous movie actor” and master cook. The recipe stated that a pizza would be topped with “cut-up tomatoes, anchovies, French cheese, and sprinkle all over with olive oil and ‘aregano’, pepper and salt.”
The Times Herald Record (NY), August 19, 1937, had an advertisement for a Pizzeria on Prince and the pizza was “Furnished with Cheese. Fresh Tomato or Anchovies.”
The Owens Valley Progress Citizen (CA), November 26, 1937, mentioned Lupo's restaurant, which I previously mentioned. The article noted, “Tried a new dish at Lupo’s Restaurant Neapolitan Pizzeria on Kearny Street and was introduced to pizza (pronounced pizzsta) an Italian concoction that’s baked in an oven, contains the amazing combination of lard, tomato sauce, anchovies, mozzarella cheese and parmesan cheese. You eat it hot, and like pie.”
Another recipe. The Miami Herald (FL), April 1, 1938, provided a recipe from a Miami woman of Italian descent. It was mentioned, “Pizza Napoletana is an unusual bread, layered with tomatoes and anchovies and sprinkled with grated Parmesan cheese, thyme and pepper and brushed over with olive oil before baking.”
The Record (NJ), January 10, 1939, reported that a legal question had arisen, whether female waitresses could be employed at a pizzeria on the basis it was a restaurant, or whether they were prohibited because pizzerias were taverns. Female waitresses were not permitted to work at taverns. D. Frederick Burnett, the State Alcoholic Beverage Control Commissioner, conducted a scholarly study of the pizzeria business, and then concluded that whether a pizzeria was a restaurant, tavern or ordinary bakeshop under State liquor law depended on the nature of the establishment. It would be judged on a case by case basis.
Burnett wrote “In Naples, of course, everyone knows that a Pizzeria is a place where dough pies, embroidered with tomatoes, anchovies or mozzarella (a cheese indited to the kid goat), and embellished with peppers and garlic, are made and baked while you wait.” He continued, “Talking strictly Neapolitan, a pizzeria is a shop specializing in the baking of pizza to order. The fact that it is consumed before it cools, does not convert the shop into a restaurant. Rather it is a tribute to gastronomical judgment. Nor does its solubility in wine change a tavern either into a restaurant or a bake shop merely because it installs an oven to serve its patrons."
The Journal (CT), January 28, 1939, ran an article from the Philadelphia Record. It noted that pizza was a "new delicacy." It added, “What is pizza? Well, it’s just a big open-faced pie, filled with tomatoes, anchovies, mozzarella, cheese, peppers, or what have you—and baked while you wait. You name your own delicacy and the pizza baker will drop it in. Then it comes out of the oven—all golden brown and crisp,…”
The article continued, “The most popular pizzeria (pizza bakery) in town is Fiore’s, 1653 E. Passayunk avenue.” And, “The reason for Fiore’s popularity is Derigi Cecchini, the pizza baker. He learned his trade as a boy in Naples, the birthplace of pizza.” Hands not silverware! It was also noted, “It’s cut into pie segments and eaten with hands. Don’t let Derigi see you eat it with a fork. His artistic Latin soul will be hurt.” It was also mentioned that “Musicians and show people are great pizza eaters.” Pizza was so popular in Philadelphia that in the last 8 months, 9 pizzerias had opened on Passyung Avenue and 8 others had opened in other sections of Little Italy.
The Washington Daily News (D.C.), February 17, 1939, noted, “…Italian tomato pie, a fromagenous delicacy of tomatoes, bread crust, anchovies, spice, bacon or whatever else happens to be around and likely looking. A new dish to Washington, it is made at the Little Dutch Tavern (extraordinary misnomer), at 1304 Pennsylvania-ave se, the only place south of Philadelphia where the exotic business is conducted.”
The Washington Daily News (D.C.), February 17, 1939, noted, “…Italian tomato pie, a fromagenous delicacy of tomatoes, bread crust, anchovies, spice, bacon or whatever else happens to be around and likely looking. A new dish to Washington, it is made at the Little Dutch Tavern (extraordinary misnomer), at 1304 Pennsylvania-ave se, the only place south of Philadelphia where the exotic business is conducted.”
The Boston Herald, March 6, 1939, provided a recipe, which entailed you making your own dough. The pizza was topped by onion, Parmesan cheese, pepper, canned tomatoes, olive oil and anchovies.
The Daily Times (Iowa), October 19, 1939, had a brief review of a cookbook, Herbs for the Kitchen by Irma Goodrich Mazza. The cookbook was “devoted entirely to dishes which the author believes taste better when herbs are used.” In a recipe from Naples, pizza was noted as “—a raised bread dough covered lightly with anchovies, tomato and marjoram and baked in a hot oven.”
The Dayton Daily News (OH), October 26, 1939, mentioned Lupo’s restaurant in San Francisco, and the article stated; the pizza was “spread with olive oil or lard, anchovies or ham, tomato paste and cheese sometimes of several types.”
It generally wouldn't be until the 1940s that other pizza toppings, such as meatballs, sausage, and pepperoni started becoming available and more commonly known. Anchovies were king for almost forty years, but then hit a decline as other toppings started being added to pizza. Today, you can find pizza with almost any type of topping, although anchovies are often still available.
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