Historical Tidbits About Shochu In The U.S.

In April 2012, Sake and Shochu were declared by the Japanese government to be "national alcoholic beverages." The idea behind this decision was to help local economies, increase the demand for rice, and boost export sales. Motohisa Furukawa, the state minister for national policy, stated. "Sake and shochu are part of the Japanese culture of taking pride in high-quality rice and water. I'm confident [they] could develop into an export industry capable of penetrating the global market."

Though Sake is relatively well known in the U.S., and consumption continues to increase each year, familiarity with Shochu is much less common. There are Shochu advocates trying to promote this intriguing spirit, and I strongly recommend that you try to experience Shochu, expanding your palate and being adventurous.

In short, Shochu is a distilled alcohol, which can be produced from a variety of ingredients, including rice, chestnuts, sweet potato, milk, brown sugar, sesame, and more. The term "shochu" is written with the Chinese characters for “fiery liquor.” Like Sake, Koji is used during the fermentation process of Shochu. Its alcohol content commonly ranges from 50 to 90 proof (the legal maximum, dependent on the type of Shochu), and though it is commonly clear on color, there are varieties which possess some color too. It's important to know that Shochu is a diverse beverage, with many different flavor profiles, and it's fun to explore all of its varieties.

Shochu is generally separated into two categories, dependent on whether it undergoes a single distillation or multiple ones. Otsurui is distilled once and korui is distilled several times. Otsurui has a more distinctive aroma and flavor. It is more often enjoyed on the rocks. This type may also be referred to as honkaku, or "authentic," shochu, because it’s the original style. Koshu, as it is lighter and cleaner, is more often mixed in cocktails. Perhaps its most popular form is the chu-hi, a shochu high ball made using numerous fruit flavors. It can be found in single-serving cans or mixed fresh at bars and pubs. Another way to enjoy either type is known as oyu-wari, which is simply mixing it with a bit of hot water. This reduces the alcohol flavor, strengthens others flavors and warms the body.

It is thought that the origins of Shochu extend back in Japan to around the 16th century. During the 18th century, with the introduction of the sweet potato to Japan, shochu made from sweet potato started to be made. This is important as many consider sweet potato Shochu to be the best type. Today, Shochu is produced in all 47 of Japan’s prefectures, but the primary centers of production are Kyushu Island and Okinawa Prefecture.

What is the history of Shochu in the U.S.? Let's examine some of that history, to see how Americans perceived Shochu. 

The first reference I found was in A Treatise on Chemistry, vol. 3 (1881), by Henry Enfield Roscoe. The author stated, "The preparation of rice-spirit, or shochu, is conducted in Japan according to the following primitive plan. Rice is allowed to undergo a peculiar kind of fermentation: this yields the beverage called sake (from ki, spirit), containing from 11 to 15 per cent alcohol. The residue, after pressing out the sake moistened with some poor qualities of sake, is then submitted to distillation,.." He then continued, "The spirit thus obtained contains from 36 to 40 per cent of alcohol."

As we know, in 1854, Commodore Matthew Perry forced Japan to sign a treaty opening trade between the two countries. At that time, many Americans were curious about Japan, desirous of learning more about that country and its ways. Initially, Sake took center stage as it was the primary alcoholic drink of Japan, served to Americans visiting Japan and attending formal functions. It took longer for Americans to learn about Shochu, especially as it was considered more of a drink for peasants. As presented in the Treatise, Shochu was made from the dregs of Sake production, a distilled spirit which was about 72-80 proof.

The first newspaper reference I located was in the St. Johnsbury Caledonian (VT), October 1, 1885, which published an article on Japanese beverages. The article noted, "In our country there is another liquor, called shochu. This is a clear tasteless distilled liquor; its toxology is tremendous. Hundreds of the people were are ruined by the dreadful drink. It is said that after taking shochu, to drink water or to wade a stream is dangerous." This is a rather unflattering depiction of Shochu, by a Japanese native, and certainly wouldn't entice any American to try it.

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), October 3, 1893, related the tale of the island of Okushiri, located in the Sea of Japan. In 1885, the island had a tiny population of only 260, but they annually consumed $3000 of Sake, Shochu and other alcohol. It was stated that 9 out of 10 men were addicted to alcohol, and the people finally got together to change matters, making a contract, pledging to never drink again. The contract was for a term of five years, and it was renewed for another five. After making this contract, and abiding by its provisions, the island proposed, doing far better economically than when they were spending so much money on alcohol. This article was reprinted in other newspapers, in New York, South Carolina, Indiana, Maryland and Illinois.

This incident, without some of the identifying details, was discussed in the San Antonio Daily Light (TX), November 27, 1894. The article stated, "An island in the Japan sea...exists where the fishermen population who were formerly addicted to the inordinate consumption of alcoholic beverages have reformed and converted the place into an earthly paradise. The islanders were enamored of sake and shochu, those being the names of their local poison,.."

As an aside, we'll note that in the Laws and Regulations Relating to Taxation of Japan (1905), in Article I-6, it stated, "The word 'Shochu' in this law is held to mean liquor or spirits obtained by distilling the lees of Seishu." Seishu is the legal term for Sake, so we see that Shochu was made from Sake lees. However, the Article continues, noting that "Those obtained by distilling the following liquors are considered to be 'Shochu.': 1) Seishu; 2) Dakushu; 3) Lees of Mirin; 4) Those obtained after fermentation by using rice, mugi (wheat, barley, or rye), kibi (millet), hiye or sweet potato and koji and water as material or by adding shukobo." This seemed to extend the basic definition of Shochu beyond just using Sake lees, and included items such as the use of sweet potato. Such other items though were probably much rarer than the use of Sake lees.

During the first decade of the 20th century, mentions of Shochu were rare and brief. The Hartford Courant (CT), June 26, 1905, stated, "The only distilled liquor produced in that country (Japan) is shochu, distilled from rice." The Chicago Daily News (NE), February 10, 1906, noted "...there is a stronger kind called shochu, which contains as much as 50 per cent of alcohol." 

The Democrat & Chronicle (NY), May 21, 1910, mentioned that in Japan there was "A stronger variety, shochu, contains from 20 to 50 per cent of alcohol." This last article, about alcoholic beverages in the "Far East," was reprinted in many other newspapers during this time.

Sweet potato Shochu. The Evening Sun (MD), September 22, 1921, discussed the island of Hachijojima, located in the Pacific Ocean between Japan and the Bonin Islands. On the island, they  grew only sweet potatoes and rice. For many years, there wasn't a tax on liquor and one of the inhabitants, A. S. Yamada, created a monopoly on alcohol production. However, soon after that, Tokyo banned the manufacture and sale of alcohol. After the ban, many islanders wasted their money on alcohol, facing economic ruin, including Sake and "moonshine shochu, which is a strong spirit brewed of sweet potatoes."

This is the first reference to sweet potato Shochu outside of the mention in the Japanese law. The previous references had been to Sake made from rice, Sake lees. And the connection of Shochu and sweet potato would be mentioned numerous times in future articles, while mentions of rice Shochu would decrease dramatically.

The Detroit Times (MI), January 13, 1935, published an article on life in Japanese, including family life. The article briefly noted, "The head of the family alone enjoys his glass of 'shochu,' an alcoholic brew stronger and saki, which is rice wine." 

For example, the St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), June 10, 1945 presented an article on Okinawa, mentioning that the men ".. take their relaxation almost entirely in drinking shochu, a liquor distilled from sweet potatoes which is cheaper, more potent and more plentiful than the Japanese sake. In dry seasons a bottle of good water can be traded even for a bottle of shochu." The Springfield Republican, June 10, 1945 also had an article on Okinawans, mentioning, "It is considered normal and manly for men to get beastly drunk on shochu, the strong drink of the islanders made from sweet potatoes, but women must not drink."

The Lockwood Luminary (MO), September 13, 1945 published an article on the Ryuku Islands, which includes Okinawa. It stated, "Drunkenness and imorality are the besetting vices of the men of the Archipelago. Ryukyu awamori, distilled from rice, has a higher alcoholic content than sake. Shochu 'burning liquor' distilled from sweet potatoes, is plentiful and cheaper." In short, Shochu was cheap and potent, made from sweet potatoes, and its consumption was limited to men.

The St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), November 20, 1948, noted that "All potatoes, white or sweet, can be made into a crude form of liquor that will stun like a blackjack." The article continued, "On Okinawa, natives use sweet potatoes to make their 'burning liquor' called Shochu."

Shochu as a Sake substitute. The Arkansas Democrat (AR), January 10, 1952, stated, "Shochu, made from sweet potatoes, is being widely used in Japan as a substitute for saki, the favorite wine, because of the rice shortage." This is another brief article that was reprinted in numerous other American newspapers across the country.

The San Angelo Standard-Times (TX), September 29, 1953, printed an article on Japanese culture, from motorists to Buddhists, and included information on their alcoholic beverages. There was a discussion of Saki, and then a brief reference to Shochu. "There is a distilled spirit, a saki brandy called shochu which is used by the poor who want a quick cheap buzz and as a libation for the departed spirits in the Shinto shrines."

A fascinating historical fact was mentioned in the Honolulu Advertiser (HI), October 10, 1954. It noted that, "An interesting fact in Japanese medical history is that sword wounds were treated with a 100-proof spirit distilled from sake called shochu preceding today's use of alcohol for cleansing purposes by several hundred years."

A terrifying Shochu incident. The Omaha World-Herald (NE), March 26, 1955, discussing a Tokyo AP article, noted that, "Shochu, a low grade sake made from sweet potatoes, killed five persons and blinded two others this week." No details were provided on this incident but it certainly wouldn't encourage any American to try Shochu.

Shochu moonshine. The Tampa Bay Times (FL), June 30, 1956, discussed a reporter in Japan who accompanied the police on a raid seeking illegal alcohol. The raid was successful and recovered a bunch of moonshine. "Moonshine is common in Japan and widely practiced by Koreans--" It was then mentioned, "Many liquor lovers got blind or killed when they drank methyl alcohol in moonshine when liquor was scarce right after the war." It was also noted that "..the moonshiners make cheap and strong (sometimes over 100 per cent proof) stuff called Shochu."

The Charleston News & Courier (SC), May 11, 1958 published that, "Shochu, the poor man's sake, originally was made from sake mash, but the modern version is a product of potato and other grains. Its alcoholic content is about 35 per cent or 70 proof." Again, we see that Shochu is cheap, something for the lower classes who couldn't afford Sake. It was interesting to see that Shochu wasn't commonly made any longer from Sake lees and other ingredients were now far more common.

Massaging cattle with Shochu? The Illinois State Journal (IL), December 1, 1962, mentioned that Japanese cattlemen fed their cattle beer and massaged them with "... shochu (Japanese gin)..." They claimed that the massages "... make the steers' blood more active."

The Las Vegas Review-Journal (NV), September 5, 1966, discussed the area of Sanya, Tokyo's "skid row." About 13,000 people, many who are Koreans, lived in flophouses in this area. It was noted, "Their diet consists of rice and noodle dishes, on which a filling meal can be made for as little as 30 yen (about 10 cents). They customarily drink Shochu, a raw liquor distilled from potatoes." The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), May 23, 1968, also discussed the Eta, the social outcasts of Japan, mentioning that they drink shochu, "... a kind of white lightning sake which sells for 40 yen (11 cents) a shot..."

The Atlanta Journal (GA), November 26, 1972, ran an article about Kagoshima, Japan. It was mentioned that, "They even have a sort of 'white lightning' in Kagoshima. It's a potent version of sake, Japan's most popular alcoholic beverage. This old Satsuma supersake is called shochu, and most Japanese abhor it. Kagoshimans down it with gusto."

Shochu statistics. The Greensboro Record (NC), March 16, 1973, detailed statistics on Japan's alcoholic consumption in 1972. Beer, the most popular drink, constituted 61.4% while Sake was in second place at 29.8%. Shochu, "a cheap distillate," constituted only 3.6%, with whisky at 2.7%;, and other alcoholic beverages at 2.5%. So, it's clear now that Shochu consumption was quite low in Japan, especially compared to beer and Sake.

Shochu consumption decreases. A year later, the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), March 31, 1974, noted that in Japan, whisky and brandy consumption now constituted 11% of the market, while "shochu, an inexpensive vodka-like spirit distilled from sweet potatoes" had seen its market share decrease by half. Already at a low amount, decreasing even further certainly wasn't good for Shochu, and it almost seemed it could end up as more of a footnote in the Japanese history of alcohol.

The Seattle Daily Times (WA), March 13, 1977, discussed the island of Kyushu, mentioning the popularity of Shochu. "Shochu is distilled from rice or sweet potatoes, unlike sake, which is brewed from rice in a process more like the manufacture of beer.." The article continued, "Shochu resembles the alcoholic drinks of China more than anything else. This may be due to the trading links which Kyushu developed with China some 1,500 years ago." The article also mentioned the potency of Shochu, that it can be 90 proof plus.

Shochu and snakes? The Abilene Reporter-News (TX), October 22, 1977, reported on Masuzo Nezu, aged 72, who created a drink with 70 proof Shochu and a batch of poisonous snakes, known as habu. This drink is supposed to contribute to longevity and sexual potency. However, about an hour after Masuzo placed 12 snakes into the shochu, one of the allegedly dead snakes came to life and bit him on a finger. He went to the hospital and was in fair condition. "The habu is common to the Okinawa islands of southern Japan, and sells for about $15 for use in the shochu drink. Shochu is made from potatoes and grain."

***********

Shochu and longevity. The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), September 13, 1978, discussed a possible connection between Shochu and long life. It stated, "Japan's oldest citizen, Shigechiyo Izumi, 113, says the secret to good health is moderate exercise, a lack of worries and a daily glass of shochu, a strong distilled spirit made from rice or potatoes, which 'helps me feel relaxed.' A year later, the Sacramento Bee (CA), September 16, 1979, mentioned that Izumi drinks a half-pint of warm Shochu daily, and at his 114th birthday, there was much Shochu at his party.

Interestingly, a Shochu distillery tried to capitalize on Izumi, using his likeness on the label of their "Long Life" Shochu. However, the Sydney Morning Herald (Australia), November 14, 1979, noted that Izumi contested the unauthorized use of his likeness, and he received an out of court settlement, which included a cash award of 200,000 yen, and he also would receive 1500 bottles of Shochu on an annual basis. The distillery probably thought that Izumi couldn't live much longer so they wouldn't have to give him too many bottles. They probably never suspected they might have to eventually give him about 10,000 bottles.

The Spokane Chronicle (WA), June 29, 1983, detailed that Izumi had celebrated his 118th birthday, mentioning that he had been born June 29, 1865, the same year that the Civil War ended in the U.S. Izumi was documented in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's oldest man. And he was still receiving 1,500 bottles of Shochu each year. The Tyler Courier-Times (TX), February 1, 1985, noted that Izumi prefers a kind of Shochu made from black sugar. Unfortunately, the Alabama Journal, February 21, 1986, mentioned that Izumi had passed, though the cause of death was not yet known. He was 120 years old, and he had always claimed that Shochu was one of the reasons for his long, long life.

************

Shochu and Horse Sushi? The State-Journal Register (IL), July 20, 1979, in an article on the consumption of horse in Japan, noted, "Connoisseurs claim that top-grade raw horse has excellent body and a light taste. They say it goes well with 'shochu,' powerful distilled spirits also popular among the young." Quite an interesting pairing, and probably one you'll never find in the U.S.

In the Charleston News & Courier (SC), September 5, 1980, there was an advertisement for Pier 1, the home decor store, noting the sale of "Showy Shochu and Sake bottles." The ad said shochu was a "sweet potato brew" and that the ceramic bottles sold for $7.99 each.

Shochu consumption rising. The Pacific Daily News (Guam), April 23, 1984, discussed some statistics on Japanese alcohol consumption, noting that beer was still #1, at 66.4%, and Sake was still #2, at 19.8%. However, Shochu had seen a 30.2% rise, and it now constituted 5.2% of the total, whole whisky & wine were at 5.1%. Even with Shochu's large surge, it still was only a small percentage of the total.

The Indianapolis News (IN), August 18, 1984, noted that Shochu had gained popularity in recent years, causing some concern to beer producers. The article also mentioned how John Travolta had recently done a commercial for Shochu.

More statistics. The Los Angeles Times, August 21, 1984, stated that back in 1947, beer had replaced Sake as the most popular alcoholic drink in Japan. Since that time, Sake had only regained first place twice, and the last time that occurred was in 1955. Last year, beer constituted about 67% of the total and Sake was only at 20%.

Maybe the most lengthy and detailed, as well as very positive, Shochu article to first appear in U.S. newspapers was in the Tyler Courier-Times (TX), February 1, 1985, which discussed the new popularity of Shochu. This article would also be published in numerous other newspapers round the country. The article stated, "A colorless concoction once derided as lower class swill is toppling traditional tipples as Japanese drinkers join the worldwide trend to light alcoholic beverages." Shochu sales were increasing by about 15% each year, while Sake sales were declining by about 2% each year. Whiskey sales, which had peaked in 1980, had recently been flat. It also noted that Shochu sales by volume had overtaken domestic whiskey in 1983.

The article mentioned that there were two types of Shochu, Type A and Type B. Type A, "about 50 proof, is a colorless, tasteless, odorless distilled grain alcohol diluted with water and very similar to vodka." It is popular with young people, who commonly use it in cocktails. Type A was marketed as far back as 1910, to utilize excess alcohol. Type B "is more traditional and distilled from rice, barley or sweet potatoes, or even sesame, black sugar, or chestnuts, and ranges from 40 to 72 proof." It is more popular with middle-aged and older people. The most popular way to consume it in the winter is in a glass with hot water.

The article also stated, "true shochu connoisseurs can spend whole evenings comparing the merits of spirits from different areas." It continued, "Shochu is not only trendy, it's a lot cheaper because it is lightly taxed." For example, top grade whiskey is taxed at 50.3%, top shelf Sake at 40.1%, and beer at 48.8%. Type A Shochu though is taxed at 14.4% and Type B at only 8.7%. A huge difference which is reflected in Shochu's much lower price.

The National Post (Ontario, Canada), May 18, 1985, detailed some of Japan's latest alcohol consumption statistics for 1984. Beer was still the most popular beverage, at 65%, while Sake was still in second place, though at only 19%, down 9% from 1983. Shochu now constituted 8%, a 40% increase from 1983. Whiskey was only 4%, losing some of its market share to Shochu.

For some current statistics, we note that in 2008, 970 million liters of Shochu were produced, but that has been decreasing since then, as in 2017, total production was down to 820 million liters. In 2017, Sake consumption in Japan had dropped down to about 5.6%, a big fall since 1985, while Shochu consumption was now 8.16%, meaning Shochu was more popular than Sake, though Shochu consumption still was relatively low.

In 2018, the Nikkei Asian Review noted statistics on Shochu exports to the U.S. in 2017. First, it was mentioned that Sake exports to the U.S. came to 6 billion yen ($53.4 million) and whisky exports were worth 3.7 billion yen. Shochu exports though were only 390 million yen (about $3.5 million). So, Shochu is only a tiny niche beverage in the U.S., with lots of room for growth.

For more detailed information on Shochu, there are two excellent books on the subject:

•  The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks by Stephen Lyman and Chris Bunting
•  The Shochu Handbook by Christopher Pellegrini. 

There is two Shochu distilleries in North America, including:

•  Hawaiian Shochu Company, which was established in 2013, and is located on the island of Oahu. They produce the Nami Hana brand, made primarily with locally grown sweet potatoes.
• American Shochu Company, which is located in Frederick, Maryland. They produce Umai! Shochu ("umai" means "delicious"), an organic barley shochu. 

In addition, a couple other companies in the U.S. have made Shochu. Last year, the Colorado Sake Company collaborated with the Ironton Distillery to make Sai Shochu. St. George's Spirits, in Alameda, California, have created the St. George California Shochu, distilled from sake lees. I haven't tasted Shochu from any of these companies yet but I'm intrigued.

My top Shochu recommendation is the Tenshi no Yuwaku, 8 Year (pictured at the top of this post), which is made from 83% Sweet Potato and 17% Rice. It was aged in Sherry casks for about 8 years, which is rare as few Shochu are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. It is rich, creamy and smooth, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity. Simply sublime.

(Revised/Expanded as of June 22, 2023)

What's Traditional Shepherd's Pie? A Historical Look

Shepherd's Pie is excellent comfort food, especially during the winter, a hearty dish of minced or ground meat and mashed potatoes, and possibly some veggies. Historically, it used to be made with leftovers, a simple recipe so food wouldn't go to waste. Many restaurants and food markets seem to prepare their own version of Shepherd's pie and everyone has their own favorite spot to enjoy this hearty dish. For example, I enjoy the version sold at J. Pace & Son in Saugus.

This dish would seem to be free of controversy, absent of pretensions, but that isn't the case. What constitutes "traditional" Shepherd's Pie? That is the question at the heart of the disagreements. Some people claim that it must be made from lamb, and that if it is made from beef, then it must be called Cottage Pie. Other people add that it must only contain certain vegetables. Are these claims accurate? Do they represent a lengthy historical tradition? If not, what actually is "traditional" Shepherd's Pie?

We probably should first address the meaning of "traditional." This isn't a precise term, and generally refers to something that has existed for a significant length of time, over the course of a number of generations. For example, we might state that a recipe that has remained largely unchanged for a hundred years or so is a traditional recipe. Other people might believe that a recipe which has only been around for twenty-five years has become traditional, though we might also view that as more a modern tradition.

So, how should we view the "traditional" Shepherd's Pie recipe? Should we focus on recipes that have existed for 100+ years, or look for something more modern, which has been around for only a fraction of that time period? Let's take an extended historical look at Shepherd's Pie and later analyze the answers to these questions.

According to the Merriam-Webster dictionary, the first known use of the term "cottage pie" was in 1791. At the time, it referred to a meat and mashed potato pie, and it could be of any type of meat, such as beef or lamb. That same dictionary noted that the first known use of the term "shepherd's pie" was in 1854, though that isn't actually correct. From my own research, I found a source referencing "shepherd's pie" that was five years older, from 1849.

The Practice of Cookery and Pastry, Adapted to the Business of Every Day Life by Mrs. Williamson (Edinburgh, 1849) was a book of Scottish recipes, and the author was a culinary instructor, hoping to "give the most useful, plain, and economical dishes by means of easy and distinct directions, ..." There was a chapter on savory Pies, including items such as Pigeon Pie, Mutton Pie, Rabbit Pie, Partridge Pie, Venison Pie and Sheep's Head Pie. There wasn't a recipe or mention of Cottage Pie but there was a recipe for Shepherd's Pie, which could be the first such known printed recipe for such.

The recipe stated, “Shepherd’s Pie. Take cold dressed meat of any kind, roast or boiled. Slice it, break the bones, and put them on with a little boiling water, and a little salt. Boil them until you have extracted all the strength from them, and reduced it to very little, and strain it. Season the sliced meat with pepper and salt, lay it in a baking dish, and pour in the sauce you strained. Add a little mushroom ketchup. Have some potatoes boiled and nicely mashed, cover the dish with the potatoes, smooth it on the top with a knife, notch it round the edge and mark it on the top, the same as paste. Bake it in an oven, or before the fire, until the potatoes are a nice brown.”

This is a fascinating recipe in a number of regards. First, it tends to give some credence to those who believe Scotland originally coined the term, "Shepherd's pie." Second, it indicates that you can use any type of meat, and not just mutton or lamb. Third, there are no vegetables in this recipe, just a bit of mushroom ketchup. Fourth, the meat is placed at the bottom of the pan and then topped with mashed potatoes. For approximately the next 125+ years, most recipes for Shepherd's Pie would follow these basics, using any type of meat, mashed potatoes and no vegetables. This then is a strong candidate for a "traditional" Shepherd's Pie, a basic recipe that has lasted for 125+ years.

One of the first newspapers references to Shepherd's Pie was the Daily Telegraph & Courier (England), December 1, 1870, which discussed a dinner for a festival of the Scottish Corporation. "The dinner embraced the usual Scottish delicacies, such as cock-a-leekie, haggis, sheep's head and trotters, collops, shepherd's pie, and black puddings.." There was another brief reference in The Freeman’s Journal (Dublin, Ireland), December 4, 1872, “We learn that there was a strong flavour of national dishes in the menu, which included cockie leekie, Scotch broth, haggis, sheep’s head, shepherd’s pie, and white and black puddings—all excellent things in themselves,…” Neither newspaper provided any details of the ingredients for the shepherd's pie, however they help to confirm the Scottish origin of Shepherd's pie.

During the 1870s, several books provided recipes and additional information for Shepherd's Pie. The Scholars' Handbook of Household Management and Cookery, by W.B. Tegetmeier (London, 1876), printed this recipe, “Shepherd’s Pie.—Cut up any scraps of cold meat, season to taste, sprinkle over a few fine herbs, out them in a pie-dish, pour over a little water. Mash some potatoes with half a gill of hot milk, in which half an ounce of butter is melted. Cover your pie with them, and bake half an hour.” Once again, we see that any type of meat could be used, and that potatoes were the only other significant ingredient. There were no vegetables.

The Kettners Book of the Table: A Manual of Cookery (London, 1877) provided information on Irish stew, made with mutton and potatoes, and then stated, “In Scotland they produce exactly such a stew, cover it over with a crust, and call it Shepherd's pie." The book also noted, "In Devonshire and Cornwall they make this pie, put apples into it instead of potatoes, and announce it as Devonshire, Cornish, or Squab pie." Note that this passage didn't state that Shepherd's Pie was only made from mutton. And based on all of the additional references in other resources, it's obvious that restriction didn't exist during this time period. Plus, there is more confirmation of the Scottish origin of Shepherd's pie.

The Official Handbook for the National Training School for Cookery, Compiled by R.O.C. (London, 1877) provided a recipe for Shepherd’s Pie, as well as an average cost to make one, 9 1/4 sixpence. The recipe called for "any scraps of cold meat," potatoes and a small onion. It also noted that if there was insufficient fat in the cold meat, that you could add some pork fat. This is the first recipe to add a vegetable, an onion, to the recipe. And once again, we see that any type of meat could be used.

We then find in Margaret Sim's Cookery (London, 1879) a more elaborate ecipe for Shepherd’s Pie that called for you to “Take cold roast beef, mutton, or veal;…”  It also called for several vegetables, including onion, carrot, turnip, and celery. In addition, an egg was added to the mashed potatoes. Again, we see that the recipe isn't limited to mutton, though a number of veggies are added, making this one of the more unique Shepherd's pie recipes of this time.

In The Art of Cooking by Matilda Lee Dods (NY, 1880), we find maybe the first time a recipe for Shepherd's Pie was published in an American cookbook. The recipe called for “One pound of cold roast beef, one Spanish onion, one and one-half ounces of butter, one-half ounce of flour, one pound of mashed potatoes, one-half gill of cold water, one teaspoonful of pepper, one teaspoonful of salt." No mutton used here. Differing from prior recipes, a layer of potatoes was first laid down in the pan, and then covered by a layer of meat. Then, additional layers of potatoes and meat were alternated, though potatoes would placed at the very top.

Moving back to newspapers, The Hull Packett and East Riding Times (England), April 1, 1880 published an article about the Pork Pie Club, which created a massive "Shepherd's pork pie, weighing one ton plumping weight, baked with a wagon of Denaby Main coals,.." It "will be eaten with a true South Yorkshire Relish, by the members of the above club, who will also partake of six dozen of Balding’s champagne.” Again, this pie wasn't limited to mutton, though they didn't provide the recipe so it is unknown if it contained any vegetables or not.

The Leeds Mercury (England), June 1, 1881 wrote, "When a sirloin of beef is no longer fit to be brought to the table there is always a great deal of meat on it which can be used for rissoles, croquettes, sausage rolls, Cornish pasties, Shepherd's pie, ..." This article was reprinted in a number of U.S. newspapers, and the first newspaper to do so might have been the Freeborn County Standard (MN), September 1, 1881. This might have also been the first U.S. newspaper reference to Shepherd's pie.

The Sheffield and Rotherham Independent (England), March 4, 1882, published a recipe,  “Shepherd’s Pie—Chop fine about a pound of cold meat, add salt, pepper, parsley, and any other seasoning that may be liked; put it in a pie dish and pour it over some good gravy, sufficient to cover the meat; boil about two pounds of potatoes, mash them and put them over the meat nicely smoothed, a few bits of dripping stuck on the top, and a little flour; bake in the oven, or in front of the fire until nicely brown.” Any type of meat could be used, and no vegetables were included in this recipe, similar to the original recipe from 1849.

Back in the U.S., the Sterling Gazette (Kansas), March 20, 1884, quoted a Boston Globe article, providing another recipe for Shepherd’s pie, noting it is made with a “mince of cold mutton, made by cutting the meat in small bits and warming it in a little thickened gravy. This makes a delicious breakfast dish.” No vegetables were included. This recipe was reprinted in numerous other U.S. newspapers over the course of the next 4-5 years. Though this recipe called for mutton, plenty of other later recipes indicated any type of meat could be used.

It's also interesting that Shepherd's pie was seen at this time as a common breakfast dish in the U.S. Numerous later newspapers articles would continue this belief, sometimes showing breakfast menus that included Shepherd's pie. These articles also noted that Shepherd's pie could also be a lunch and dinner dish. You could eat it anytime during the day you desired. Would you eat Shepherd's pie for breakfast? Have you ever enjoyed it for breakfast?

Returning to the UK, The Newcastle Weekly Courant (England), November 13, 1885, penned an article about what cooks can make with cold mutton, referred to several times as “cold meat”. It stated, “Broken ragged pieces may be used for mince, mutton pie, Cornish pasties, shepherd’s pie, vol-au-vent;" There was a follow-up article in their November 20, 1885 issue, giving suggestions for what cooks can produce from cold beef, and that also included “made into Cornish pasty or shepherd’s pie.” As we can see, Shepherd's pie could still be made from mutton or beef.

Rabbits in Shepherd's pie? The Dumfries & Galloway Standard, August 14, 1886, detailed a dinner that included, "the chief dish was shepherd's pie, made with rabbits. Each pie contained four full-grown rabbits, one pound of fat pork, and potatoes in abundance." There certainly don't seem to be any hard and fast rules as to what meats could go into a Shepherd's pie. And rabbit is delicious!

As a brief aside, a similar dish to Shepherd's pie was conceived in the U.S., and it was known as Boston Brown Hash. I haven't yet been able to find the specific origin of this dish, and whether it actually originated in Boston or not, though the earliest reference I found to it was in the Philadelphia Cook Book: A Manual of Home Economics by Sarah Tyson Heston Rorer (G. H. Buchanan & Co., 1886).

The book's recipe stated, “Boston Brown Hash. Chop any remains of steaks, roasts or stews very fine. Grease deep pie-dishes. Put a layer of mashed potatoes (cold ones, left over, will answer) in the bottom of the dish, then a layer of meat, then a layer of stale bread crumbs; sprinkle with salt and pepper; place here and there a few bits of butter, and moisten with a half-cup of beef gravy, then another layer of potatoes. Dip a knife into milk and smooth over the top. Bake in a moderate oven about a half hour, until a nice brown.”

Boston Brown Hash was primarily mentioned in U.S. newspapers and books up to around 1935, and the various sources which provided a recipe were nearly identical. Any type of meat could be used for this dish, and its main difference from Shepherd's pie was the addition of a layer of stale bread crumbs. Why has this recipe been largely forgotten now?

Back to Shepherd's pie. The Hampshire Telegraph and Naval Chronicle (England), December 29, 1888, offered another Shepherd’s Pie recipe, “Cut cold cooked mutton into dice. Cut four good sized cold potatoes into blocks, put a layer of each in a deep baking dish, then a sprinkling of salt, pepper, and chopped parsley, and so continue until the materials are used; pour over a cup of stock or water, and place here and there a few bits of butter. Have ready two cups of mashed potatoes, add to them a quarter cup of cream, a half teaspoonful of salt and a dash of pepper; beat until very light and add a tablespoonful of butter and one cup of sifted flour, mix lightly and roll out in a sheet, cover it over the top of the baking dish, and make a small hole in the centre to allow the escape of steam. Bake in a moderate oven one hour.” This recipe used mutton but no vegetables were included.

The Weekly Standard and Express (England), November 5, 1892, then offered their own recipe for Shepherd’s pie, “Half fill a pudding mould with pieces of beef seasoned with salt and a little pepper. Pour over it a cupful of gravy, with a slight suggestion of Worcestershire sauce, catsup or vinegar, to give piquancy, cover with a thin crust of newly-boiled and mashed potatoes, and bake in a moderately heated oven to a nice light golden-brown colour.” Beef and mutton both remained as valid options for Shepherd's pie.

Next, in the U.S., the McPherson Daily Republican (Kansas), September 11, 1893 published a recipe stating, “Cut into dice one quart of any kind of cold meat. Mince very fine two tablespoonfuls of salt pork, and add to the meat.” The recipe also called for the addition of an onion, still the most common vegetable used in any of these recipes.

Returning to the UK, The Newcastle Weekly Courant (England), August 25, 1894, published, “Shepherd’s Pie (made of fragments of meat and cold potatoes).—Take whatever fragments of meat there may be in the larder, and double its bulk in potatoes. Mash the potatoes smoothly, and beat them up with a slice of melted butter, a little milk, and salt. Cut the meat into thin slices, free from fat, skin, and gristle; or if preferred, mince it finely. Season it with pepper and salt. Butter a shallow pie dish, put the meat into it, and moisten it with any gravy there may be, and a teaspoonful of Worcester sauce. If liked, a small onion finely chopped, and two sage leaves can be sprinkled over the meat. Cover with a thick layer of mashed potato, rough the top with a fork, and bake in a moderate oven until the pie is hot through, and brown on top.” We see again that any type of meat can be used, and an onion is used.

Though beef, mutton, and pork have all been choices for Shepherd's Pie, it doesn't stop there. The Freeman’s Journal (Dublin, Ireland), February 7, 1895, in an article on Some Recipes for Second Day Cooking, noted,  “.., and such parts of the joint as still remain may be cut off and mixed together with any other scraps of cold meat, game, or poultry that there may be in the house, and served either as mince or shepherd’s pie for luncheon,…” Even poultry was permissible in your Shepherd's pie.

Back in the U.S., the Boston Globe, February 5, 1895, provided a Shepherd's pie recipe that called for the use of a "mince of cold lamb" and no vegetables.  A slightly different recipe was in the Boston Globe, March 11, 1895, and it used mutton, though still no vegetables. The Marshfield News and Wisconsin Hub, June 13, 1895, also published a recipe calling for “A pound of mutton, minced fine, or any scraps of cold meat can be minced and used for this dish.” The Circleville News (KS), March 26, 1896, also printed a recipe that called for “Minced cold beef or lamb.”

What about Scotland? Well, The Courier and Argus (Scotland), October 29, 1896, published a recipe, “Shepherd’s Pie—Take cold meat, slice it, break the bones, and put them in with a little boiling water and salt. Boil till all the strength is extracted, and reduce to a little thin strain. Season the sliced meat, and lay in a baking dish. Pour in the sauce. Add ketchup. Cover with a paste of mashed potatoes, and bake in a brisk oven.” It calls for "cold meat" in general and doesn't differentiate what kind of meat. Also note that it calls for the addition of ketchup!

In The Californian, February 21, 1899, the paper presented a Shepherd's pie recipe that stated you could use "cold mutton, lamb or veal" and no vegetables were included in the recipe either. The Times (PA), May 16, 1899, printed a recipe that included "cold beef, onions, and potatoes." The Buffalo Evening News (NY), May 31, 1900, had a recipe calling for "cold mutton." And in another New York newspaper, the New-York Tribune, December 28, 1900, the recipe stated you could use "any kind of cold meat" and it also included the use of an onion. The News Journal (DE), February 5, 1901, had a recipe that stated you could use "whatever meat was at hand," and it too required an onion. And The Boston Globe, July 23, 1903, had a recipe using "cold meat" and an onion. We can see these recipes vary as to the type of meat that is used, most using whatever is available, and the only vegetable they still used were onions.

The Gloucestershire Echo, December 11, 1914, published, "Cottage pie (alias shepherd's pie) is a useful stand by; and it, too, will awaken tender recollections of home." We can see that 65 years after the first documented use of the term "shepherd's pie," it is still used interchangeably with cottage pie, indicating both are made from beef or mutton/lamb.

Let's jump forward a bit and check in on England. The Guardian (London), April 29, 1930, printed an article that stated, “The remains of joints such as shoulders and legs of mutton and ribs of sirloin of beef have many uses. Minced finely the meat can be made into potted meat, with the addition of seasoning and a little good stock, or it may be used to form a shepherd’s pie or rissoles, or it may be warmed in a little good gravy and served with boiled rice.” We continue to see that both mutton and beef could be used in a Shepherd's pie.

And later that year, The Guardian (London), December 30, 1930, published another fascinating article, titled Shepherd’s Pie: The Real Thing. It explained what they considered to be the proper way to prepare a Shepherd's pie, noting that “The false dish consists of a hash, containing ‘left-over’ mutton or beef disguised with sauce and concealed by potato. Not so the true. Though one of the least expensive dishes in all the home repertory, it should be also one of the most welcome, as it is certainly second to none in warming and nourishing qualities.”

It then went into detail about the type of meat that should be used. “It must be made from fresh meat. With this proviso it offers a wide range of flavouring and composition. If of mutton, the meat should be comparatively free from fat; if of beef, an admixture of fat is allowable. In either case the meat should be of good quality and freshly minced (not cut up), but a quarter of a pound is ample allowance for each person." We again see that Shepherd's pie, the "real thing," could be made with either mutton or beef. So, 80 years after the first Shepherd's pie recipe was published, we still see that any type of meat could be used. With that amount of time, it seems this is definitely a traditional dish.

This article was also the first to add numerous other vegetables, and not just onions, to the dish. It stated, "The meat should be spread loosely at the bottom of a pie-dish. Then scraped carrot, finely ringed onions, sieved or squeezed tomatoes (without their skins), and, if possible, some peeled and cut-up mushrooms are added in a layer over the meat. A very little of each vegetable goes a long way, and the more there are the better the pie." It continued, "A very small sprinkling of mixed herbs, with a bay leaf to work its subtle magic, is an addition for those who like herb flavouring."

Finally, it discussed the mashed potatoes and the cooking of this dish. "Then a generous plateful of well-cooked potatoes which have been mashed with pepper and salt and a tablespoonful of hot milk is added smoothly and thickly over and scored with a fork for better browning. But between the meat and the potato some knobs of butter and a very little salted water or weak stock have been inserted. The slower this dish cooks the better. It is important that no dry salt be added to the meat layer.”

The Aberdeen Press (Scotland), September 28, 1932, continued supporting the position that Cottage pie and Shepherd's pie were alternate terms for the same thing. It printed, "Many different kinds of pies can be made from cold minced meat. Many of them are slight variations of the well-known Shepherd's Pie or Cottage Pie for which the minced meat mixed with gravy, stock and seasonings is put in the bottom of a pie dish and covered with mashed potatoes dotted with little pieces of butter." This article also doesn't mention that any vegetables are included in this recipe.

Seven years later, The Guardian (England), May 31, 1939, presented another recipe for Shepherd’s pie. “Mince the meat finely together, with a couple ounces of ham to half a pound of beef or other meat.” Once again, the type of meat doesn't really matter, and there is the addition of ham! It is also around this time that the newspapers started to discuss the use of tinned and canned meats in making Shepherd's pie, due to meat shortages because of the war. The Guardian, in subsequent issues, presented some different recipes to use this tinned meat for Shepherd's Pie. This is probably also why The Guardian (England), January 31, 1940, presented a recipe for a Vegetarian Shepherd’s Pie recipe, which used boiled haricot beans, lentils, chopped onion, grated cheese, and mashed potatoes.

There wasn't much mention of the ingredients for Shepherd's pie again until the early 1960s. The Daily Mirror (England), February 8, 1961, presented a more unusual recipe. It called for any type of minced meat, but also included a "small tin of baked beans in tomato sauce" as well as chopped mushrooms. The Liverpool Echo (England), May 2, 1962, mentioned that "minced steak" can be used in Shepherd's pie. The Newcastle Evening Chronicle (England), January 10, 1963, made a similar suggestion, stating you could use "canned stewed steak."

The Thanet (England), April 2, 1963, had a recipe for Curried Shepherd's Pie, which required minced lamb or beef. The only vegetable was an onion, and there was also the addition of curry powder. Even these different recipes were still relatively simple, with only a handful of ingredients. The Guardian (England), March 6, 1963, wrote that you could use leftovers from your sirloin joint to make Shepherd’s pie. This advice was repeated in The Guardian (England), November 3, 1967 and The Guardian (England), June 24, 1976.

Pork in Shepherd's pie? I previously mentioned an example of pork used in such a recipe, and now there is another. The Tatler (England), September 11, 1963, discussed the uses of gammon, the hind leg of a pig, and similar to ham. One of those detailed uses was in Shepherd's pie. Lamb, beef, pork, poultry, rabbit, and more were all acceptable ingredients.

The People (London), February 21, 1971, presented another different recipe, which called for minced beef, as well as Italian tomatoes, onions, cinnamon, and grated cheddar cheese. In a later issue, The People (London), February 13, 1972, mentioned how Shepherd's pie is "traditionally made with meat" but gives a recipe to make a version with Fish. The Coventry Evening Telegraph, December 31, 1974, also provided a recipe, but it called for minced lamb, back bacon, an onion, mushrooms, carrot and a tomato. The Daily Mirror, November 25, 1974, references making Shepherd's pie with "left-over roast from Sunday or fresh-minced beef."

The Birmingham Daily Post (England), April 15, 1977, printed a recipe that used lean, minced beef, as well as an onion, carrot, tin of tomatoes, and ground cinnamon. The Belfast Telegraph (Ireland), May 11, 1977, detailed how on Monday nights, "The old standby was Shepherd's Pie made with remains from the Sunday roast." Beef, not lamb. The Sligo Champion (Ireland), January 27, 1978, printed a Shepherd's pie recipe, which used minced beef, onions and tomatoes.

We have now seen that the use of beef in Shepherd's pie has been acceptable for over 125 years. I think it's more than fair to say that it is a traditional ingredient for this dish. How can you ignore such a lengthy time period? So when did some people start claiming lamb was the primary identifier for Shepherd's pie? Obviously such a claim can only possess a far more limited time period.

The Observer (England), January 16, 1977, was one of the first newspapers to document differences in the ingredients between Cottage pie and Shepherd's pie. The article mentions that Shepherd's pie was made from either mutton or lamb, and otherwise, if beef were used, it would be known as cottage pie. The article fails to explain the rationale for this division and doesn't make claims to a lengthy historical basis. In addition, two years later, The Observer (England), January 7, 1979, provided a recipe for Shepherd's pie that used minced beef. A bit of a contradiction there.

The Bridgewater Journal (England), May 17, 1986, supported the differentiation between the two pies, noting, "Most people think any minced meat covered in potato is Shepherd's Pie, but strictly Shepherd's pie is lamb, and mashed potato, while cottage pie is beef tiled with potato slices like slates on a cottage roof." Yet, months later, the Liverpool Echo (England), December 2, 1986, still provided a Shepherd's Pie recipe calling for minced beef. And the contradiction continued.

The claim that Shepherd's pie must contain lamb appears to have originated in the late 1970s, though it certainly wasn't a belief held by everyone. Over the years, since the late 1970s, the belief has acquired many more adherents, until it has reached the point that some now claim it is the "traditional" way to prepare Shepherd's pie. That belief is obviously mistaken as historically, for over 125 years, it has been allowable to use beef, or any other meat, in Shepherd's pie. Just examine all of the numerous recipes and references I've mentioned in this article.

Shepherd's pie, using any type of meat, from beef to lamb, has a much stronger position to be known as the "traditional" way to prepare the recipe. Restricting Shepherd's pie to only lamb is a modern concept, and makes little sense when viewing the historical record. In addition, any claim that specific vegetables must used in Shepherd's pie is also a modern invention, as throughout 125+ years of history, Shepherd's pie usually didn't contain vegetables, and when it did, onions were the most common, and usually the only vegetable used. A few outliers existed throughout this history, but they were rarities, and not the norm.

Claiming Shepherd's pie can only be made from lamb may be a modern tradition, but it is not the traditional way to prepare it. So, enjoy your Shepherd's pie anyway that you'd like. Even if it's a Shepherd's Pie Donut!

Hopefully, this provides some clarity on these issues, though additional research would probably be beneficial.

Sake News

Kanpai! Here is another short list of some of the interesting Sake articles that have been published lately. It is great to see more and more coverage for Sake, though I recommend that anyone seeking to publish a Sake article check it at least a few times for accuracy. A few basic errors continue showing up in introductory Sake articles, and those errors would be easy to eliminate if you had a knowledgeable Sake person check your facts. Let us also hope that we see more than just introductory Sake articles in the future. Sake has many depths and all those varied facets make great material for articles.

1)  Sake surge in Singapore. The Straits Times has a lengthy article, Sake: Going With The Grain, with plenty of basic educational info about Sake types, brewing, and food pairings suggestions. In addition, the article reports on how Sake has become very popular in Singapore, making it the biggest market for Sake in Southeast Asia. However, it is still a young market and more Sake education is needed to inform consumers about Sake varieties, pairings and more. Within the past year, 18 Sake bars and restaurants have opened in Singapore and the article provides specific information for several of these new spots. As an aside, the article also discusses how Sake popularity in Japan has been growing, especially with young people and women, much of it due to increased media attention. It is always good to hear of Sake's growing popularity.

2) Sake, an offering to the gods. The Asahi Shimbun has an intriguing article on the revival of a traditional Ainu Sake. The Ainu Museum partnered with the Tanaka Sake Brewery, which is located in Otaru, a port city in Hokkaido, to recreate Tonoto, a traditional Sake of the Ainu. This unrefined Sake was named Kamuy Tonoto, "divine sake" though I have seen other sources which translate "tonoto" as "official milk." It is brewed with Japanese millet and rice koji, has about a 10% ABV, and tastes both sweet and sour. Masahiro Nomoto, director of the museum, says, “For the Ainu people, tonoto is not only traditional sake but also a crucial offering to gods and ancestors.” In a future article, I will be writing more about the Ainu and Sake consumption.

3) Sake, inspired by a sword. The Asahi Shimbun wrote about the Tuzyun Shuzo Co., a Sake brewery which was established in 1770 in the Kumamoto Prefecture. They have created a new Sake, Hotarumaru, which was inspired by a legendary sword which was allegedly used by the warrior Aso Korezumi during the battle against the Ashikaga clan in 1336. The sword was damaged in the battle, but the next morning, the warrior woke to find it was fully repaired. And during that evening, the warrior had a dream of fireflies swarming over this sword.

The first batch of this Sake, about 300 bottles, sold out in hours and it was primarily women buying it! These women were mostly token joshi, "sword girls," who were fans of a video game, Token Ranbu, where swords are transformed into characters. The Sake is a Junmai Ginjo and is packaged in an appealing bottle.  The second batch, 1000 bottles, also sold out quickly, in about six hours. This is another example of how more women in Japan are buying Sake.

4) More Sake being produced in the U.S. The Japan Times ir reporting that the growing market for Sake in the U.S. is leading Japanese breweries in the U.S. to up their production as well as to create new varieties of Sake. They understand the advantages they possess, lower costs and quicker delivery, and want to capitalize on these matters. For example, Takara Sake USA Inc.. has upped its production and has started making Yuki Nigori, a flavored Sake. Gekkeikan Sake (USA) Inc. and Ozeki Corp. have also expanded its production capacity. Though the article doesn't mention it, small artisan Sake breweries are also starting up in the U.S., helping to sate the growing desire for Sake. It will be fascinating to see what happens when they start producing Sake with Sake rice, like Yamada Nishiki.

Legal Status of Sake in the U.S.

When I describe Sake to people, I tell them that Sake is not a beer, wine or spirit. I consider it to be its own unique liquor, and my position is supported by numerous Sake advocates. It may bear some similarities to beer, wine and spirits, but it also possesses key differences as well. It may be brewed in some ways like a beer, but drinks more like a wine.

Legally, what is its status? Under U.S. law, is Sake treated as a wine, beer or distilled spirit? Curiously, it is treated as all three! The actual determination for any specific Sake depends upon the surrounding circumstances, such as whether it is produced in the U.S., is imported or contains added distilled alcohol. The Alcohol & Tobacco Tax and Trade Bureau details this strange decision making process.

First, in matters relating to production and tax, Sake is treated as beer under the Internal Revenue Code. The definition for "Beer" states "...and other similar fermented beverages (including sake or similar products).." The sake breweries in the U.S. are considered more as beer breweries for production purposes and must follow the rules for such beer breweries.

However, the law does not address definitions of the various types of Sake, such as Junmai and Ginjo. U.S. Sake breweries can technically use such Japanese terms at will, with no restriction. For example, a U.S. Sake brewery could label any of their products Junmai, even if that product would not qualify as a Junmai under Japanese law. This is similar in some respects to when U.S. wineries labeled their Sparkling Wines as Champagne, though such wines did not fit the French definition of Champagne.

Currently, there are about 10 Sake breweries in the U.S., either already in existence or in the process of being constructed. With such a tiny number of breweries, this labeling issue is not significant and I am unaware of any domestic Sake which does not follow Japanese labeling laws. It is something though which deserves consideration, especially as more sake breweries continue to sprout up all across the country. It would be better to handle the matter now, before it ever becomes a problem.

Second, in matters relating to importation, labeling and advertising, Sake is treated as wine under the Federal Alcohol Administration Act. The definition for "Wine" states "...other alcoholic beverages not so defined, but made in the manner of wine, including ...vermouth, cider, perry and sake;..."  So if you want to import Japanese Sake, you must have an importer permit for wine. In addition, Sake labels and advertising must abide by the same laws as does wine.

Third, Sake may sometimes even get treated as a distilled spirit. Some Sake has alcohol added to it and it is generally known as aru-ten, short for arukoru tenka. Honjozo is premium Sake which has some distilled alcohol added to it, as a means of emphasizing certain aromas and flavors which are soluble in alcohol. This distilled alcohol is diluted with water so the alcohol level of the Sake does not rise. It remains around 15%-17% ABV, the same as Junmai which lacks the addition of distilled alcohol.

However, under U.S. law, if any distilled alcohol is used during any stage of the production process, then the Sake will be taxed at the higher distilled spirit tax rate. That means that Honjozo will tend to be more expensive than Junmai because of the increased tax rate.

Alcohol law in the U.S. is a twisted and convoluted system. Poor Sake has an identity crisis, unsure of what it is supposed to be.