Rant: Not All Wines Need Special Days

Last Friday, June 25, was National Croatian Wine Day. This was the first official celebration, and the date has special meaning for Croatia as it was also the 30th Anniversary of Croatia's declaration of independence. In 1991, Croatia declared its independence from the Republic of Yugoslavia.

I attended two online Croatian wine tastings for the Wine Day, sampling five different Croatian wines, including a Malvasia Istriana, Pošip, Plavac Mali, and two Plavac Mali Rosés. Tasty wines that are unfamiliar to many Americans. It makes sense that Croatian wines need their own special wine day, to increase awareness, to expose more consumers to these delicious wines. They are currently a niche wine  and need greater recognition. 

The basic idea behind wine days is to promote a specific grape or wine. However, are all such days necessary and beneficial, or are some merely marketing ploys? 

To me, not all grapes and wines actually need their own Wine Day. Those which are already well known, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. don't need additional promotion. Their wine days become more of a marketing effort to sell specific wines. Cabernet Sauvignon is already a very popular grape so why does it really need its own special day? What does it really accomplish which warrants holding a special day of promotion? 

There are plenty of under appreciated grapes and wines, such as Assyrtiko or Sherry, which would benefit much more from their own special day rather than Cabernet. They need the publicity, to boost their sales and recognition. But many fewer wineries would support days promoting those under appreciated grapes and wines. Cabernet Sauvignon Day can draw in many more wineries, from all over the world. Thus, it is much easier, and profitable, to market Cabernet Day rather than Pinotage Day.

I would much rather see days celebrating the wine underdogs, helping to gain them recognition and new fans. I want people to broaden their palates, and taste new grapes and wines. Niche grapes and wines can benefit immensely from greater exposure. So, we need more wine days like National Croatian Wine Day. 

So rather than another Chardonnay Day, let us see Xynomavro Day or Madeira Day. What do you think?

Rant: 38 Seconds Of Wine

Thirty-eight seconds.

It's not even a full minute. It's a brief span of time, especially to make an informed decision. However, 38 seconds is the amount of time the average person spends to select a wine at a store. With that little amount of time, many consumers are choosing wines based on labels or shelf talkers with points, Or they are choosing the same wine all the time, maybe that bottle of Yellow Tail or Barefoot, ignoring all other wines.

How do we get people to spend more time deciding which wine to buy? How do we get them to choose a wine for reasons other than the animal on the label or a score of 90 points? How do we get them to expand their palate and try something new, rather than the same old wine they buy every week?

Online and print wine articles help to a degree, though such matters appeal more to the more passionate wine lover rather than the average wine consumer. We must understand that these average consumers want the wine buying process to be simple and quick. They may be open to experimentation, to choosing something different, but they need a boost to their motivation. They need a sufficient reason to spend a little more time in their wine buying.

It is the staff of a wine store who are in the best position to intervene with these average consumers, to get them to change their usual buying pattern.

First, a wine store needs a welcoming staff, who inquire whether their customers need assistance or not, They can lead consumers to different wines than what they might have chosen on their own in those 38 seconds. That staff can lead those consumers to expand their palates and buy wines they might never have bought on their own. They can also get them to buy wines for reasons other than labels and points. However, the staff cannot be too intrusive or pushy. They can't act like stereotypical car salesmen but rather must be more facilitators, offering their advice and suggestions if such assistance is desired.

Many of these customers wouldn't ask for assistance on their own. They would just go about their business as usual. However, if they were approached in the right way, with an offer of help that doesn't seem pushy, these customers might then take advantage of the offer and seek assistance in selecting wine. And if the offer of assistance is refused, the staff needs to be polite and walk away rather than remain and pressure the customer to accept their help.

Second, a wine store that holds regular tastings can keep those average consumers in the store longer than 38 seconds. It is hard for many consumers to resist passing by the tasting table,and not sampling something, When these consumers taste those wines, they open their palates to something new, to wines they might not have otherwise selected. If they enjoy the taste of those wines, they may even be motivated to buy those wines. A fair number of people will purchase wines they got to sample, when they might not have otherwise selected those wines on their own.

Third, there are a number of other measures that wine stores can take to affect the buying habits of their customers. The first two measures I mentioned are the most significant, but other actions can have an effect as well. From personal shelf talkers to weekly newsletters, wine stores can do plenty to reach out to their customers, making it easier for them to select wine, yet still breaking out of that 38 second average.

Let's elevate the knowledge and passion of the American wine consumer, person by person.

Valley View Vineyard: A Friday the 13th Connection

When you visit a winery tasting room, one of the last things you might expect to see is an homage to the Friday the 13th movie franchise, including images of Jason Voorhees, the hockey-masked killer. While in Southern Oregon, wandering around the tasting room of a historic winery, I was surprised and puzzled to find a large collection of Friday the 13th memorabilia in one corner of the room. Why was it there? What did it have to do, if anything, with wine? I'll provide you the answers later in this post.

First, let us delve back to the early history of wine in Oregon, and especially Southern Oregon. As I have mentioned before, in the 1850s, Peter Britt, a Swiss immigrant and photographer, came to the Oregon Territory because of gold fever. Though his primary income derived from photography, he tried his hand at mining as well. A man of eclectic interests, he also was intrigued by horticulture and took time to plant orchards, such as pears and peaches, and eventually even grapes. He planted his own vineyards in the Rogue Valley and eventually established, in 1873, the first commercial winery, the Valley View Vineyard, in Jacksonville.

Fast forward about one hundred years to 1972, when the Valley View was purchased and restored by the Wisnovsky family. The father, who had been an engineer, decided that he wanted to become a farmer. The family initially planted twelve acres of grapes, and began as a co-op, selling off their grapes. In 1976, they decided to start their own winery and in 1978, converted a barn into a winery. The Wisnovsky family still owns and operates the winery, and we met Mark Wisnovsky at his winery, and dined there one evening too.

The winery now has about 36 acres of grapes, including one acre of original planted Cabernet Sauvignon, and they grow about 10 different grapes. The vineyard is sustainable and they feel that Tempranillo is now their signature grape. Their site is about 3-5 degrees cooler than other surrounding vineyards, and frost can be an issue, especially as Tempranillo is a later bloomer. Back in 1985, they hired their winemaker, John Guerrero, a graduate of UC Davis, giving him nearly 30 years of experience with the winery.

Unfortunately, their wines are generally not available outside of Oregon, except through their wine club and online sales. Within Oregon, one of their outlets is that they sell directly a number of their wines to Costco and Trader Joe's. They have created a special, inexpensive red blend, Rogue Red, which will be available at Costco for $9.99. There are very few wines in Southern Oregon, except for some second labels, which sell at around the $10 price point. That does make it more difficult for people to consider Oregon wines as an everyday purchase. The Rogue Red is non-vintage and each bottle is marked with a Lot number. I didn't get to taste this wine so can't comment on its taste, but I like the concept.

As for those wines I did taste, most with dinner, the 2011 Anna Maria Viognier ($22) was aromatic, crisp and clean with pleasant citrus, pear flavors and floral accents. Easy drinking and delicious, it would be enjoyable on its own or with food. The 2012 Anna Maria Sauvignon Blanc, which has a little bit of Viognier added, also had nice acidity and clean, balanced fruit flavors of grapefruit and citrus. Another easy drinker, with or without food.

Onto reds! The 2008 Anna Maria Cabernet Sauvignon ($24) was a powerful wine, but with restraint, that showcased pleasant ripe plum, black cherry, and spice flavors. Nice complexity at this price point, and best served with a thick steak or hearty Bolognese. The star of the evening was their 2008 Anna Marie Tempranillo ($26), which was dark, spicy, and filled with plenty of black fruit flavors. Complex, supple and with a lengthy finish. Another delicious food wine which will remind you of some Spanish Tempranillo wines.

Overall, these wines are good values at these price points and you should check them out if possible.

And what about Jason and Friday the 13th?

In the original Friday the 13th movie, the sole survivor of the massacre at Camp Crystal Lake was Alice Hardy. The killer was Pamela Voorhees, whose son, Jason, drowned at the camp about 20 years before, and Alice ended up decapitating her with a machete. At the end of the movie, while resting in a canoe, Alice had a nightmare that the dead Jason, came up out of the water and grabbed her. In the sequel, Alice was murdered, with an ice pick to her head, by the resurrected Jason. The character of Alice Hardy was depicted by actress Adrienne King. 

At one point, Adrienne moved to Oregon, loved wine, and eventually worked for a time at Valley View Winery. Together, they created Crystal Lake Wines, which uses specially chosen Valley View wines in unique labeled bottles, including a painting done by Adrienne of her character lying in a canoe on Crystal Lake. That explains the strange homage to the horror movie series. If you know a horror fan, then these wines might be a great gift. As I am a horror fan, I thought it was quite cool that the Valley View made this collaboration and had the courage to showcase it in their tasting room. And as it is their wine in these Crystal Lake bottles, I can vouch that the wine is tasty too.

Abacela Vineyards: A Spanish Touch

When visiting different wine regions, I usually find a number of wines I would like to purchase, but flying with wine is a challenge. There can be the added cost for additional luggage and the a risk that the bottles might break during the flight. Generally, I'll only purchase one to three bottles, and pack them carefully in my existing luggage. Thus, I need to be very selective in which bottles I decide to transport home. When I recently visited Oregon, I purchased only a single bottle, a high end Tempranillo from Abacela Vineyards. It was a most impressive wine.

Earl Jones, pictured above, is the owner of Abacela Vineyards and led us on a tour of the winery. Living with his wife, Hilda, in Pensacola, Florida, Earl had a passion for Spanish wine, specifically the Tempranillo grape. From that passion spawned the question for Earl whether Tempranillo could be successfully grown in the U.S.or not. As he searched for an appropriate region, he found that Southern Oregon occupied a similar latitude as sections of northern Spain, including parts of Ribera del Duero and Rioja. Further analysis and investigation, including consultation with his son Greg, led him to believe that Tempranillo could potentially do well in this area. So, in 1992, he purchased land on south sloping hillsides in Umpqua Valley, hoping to fulfill a dream.

In 1995, they planted the first Tempranillo in the Pacific Northwest and would make their first varietal Tempranillo in 1997. For the name of their winery, they chose an ancient term, "abacela," which is common to the Spanish, Galician and Portuguese languages. The term means "to plant a grape vine," symbolic of their efforts in starting a new vineyard, as well as honoring the Spanish Tempranillo. Besides grapes, they also chose to preserve some 19th century orchards that already existed on the property, which bear pears, apples and oranges.

There is a fault line beneath their property, a "bulldozer" fault, which moves north but does not cause any shaking. However, it does mean that part of their soil is approximately 450 million years older than the rest of the soil. Their estate now consists of 500 acres and there are about 76 acres under vine, though they only count the actual area occupied by the vines and not the alleys between the vine rows. Besides Tempranillo, they grow other Spanish and Portuguese grapes, as well as a few others. In all, they grow about 20 grapes, some experimental, as they still seek to determine which other grapes will grow well on their property. Over time, they have stopped growing some grapes as they determined they could not grow them commercially and constantly for 8 out of 10 years. Earl stated that "climate is the dominant factor in deciding what to grow."

When we first arrived at Abacela, we saw this intriguing cannon, initially suspecting it was merely decorative. However, Earl indicated that it was a working cannon that they found for sale, and now use on special occasions. Not sure there are many wineries that have their own working cannon. Wine thieves beware!

Abacela is very eco-conscious and was one of the first carbon neutral wineries. Outside the winery, there is a series of panels about the winery, including one which outlines all of their eco-conscious programs. For one, they work with Wildlife Safari, trading hay for manure, which they will use for compost/fertilizer. Like many other Oregon wineries, they care about the environment, and work towards supporting it, rather than working against it.

The Abacela property has one of the longest growing seasons in the region and a low frost risk. To monitor matters, there are about 30 weather stations on the estate gathering data. This is not surprising as Greg has assisted his father in understanding the climate, soil and terroir of the estate. In 2013, they have only had about 8.8 inches of rain so far, which is unusual, and they expect to harvest, only hand harvesting, about 200 tons of grapes. Earl stated that it is still too early to determine the signature grape of Southern Oregon. Though he, and now other wineries, are having success with Tempranillo, more time and experimentation is still necessary. Earl conducts plenty of experiments, from different grapes to different barrels. It is a continual learning experience, gathering lots of data each year, constantly seeking to improve.

Abacela produces wines including Tempranillo, Dolcetto, Garnacha, Malbec, Syrah, Merlot, Muscat, Albarino, Viognier and more. The wines are distributed in about 27 states, so there is a decent chance that you might be able to find them locally, though they have little distributiion outside of the U.S. Their wines are available in Massachusetts and I strongly recommend that my local readers seek them out. You won't be disappointed.

As we toured the winery, we sipped some of their 2012 Grenache Rosé ($16). They crop tbeir Grenache differently for their rosé than they do their red, and Earl noted that Grenache can be a challenging grape as it needs a long time to ripen. The rosé undergoes only four hours of skin contact, giving it a nice, pink color, and it has an alcohol content of 13.1%. It reminded me more of a French rosé, dry and with restrained but complex red fruit flavors. Delicious, and the type of rosé I prefer to drink.

The rest of our wine tasting took place during lunch, which began with a fresh salad of mixed greens, peaches, crispy serrano ham, and a verjus dressing. Tasting wine with food is always a worthwhile experience, giving you a better sense of the wine.

What is Tempranillo without Spanish cuisine? Our main dish was a huge Paella, with chicken, shrimp, chorizo, peas, green beans, tomatoes, and peppers. Compelling and flavorful, I had refills, and probably could have eaten even more. It well well with the wines, and seemed appropriate for much of what we were drinking. Everyone should have more paella in their lives.

Though Earl stated that the estate is a difficult terroir for Albarino, the 2012 Albarino ($18) was excellent. It was crisp and dry,with pleasant flavors of apple and pear as well as some mineral notes. The finish was long and delicious, and it would make a fine food wine, or be enjoyable on its own too.

Besides Spanish and Portuguese grapes, Abacela also does well with their 2009 Malbec ($25), a smooth and approachable wine with lush black fruit flavors and plenty of spicy notes. Good complexity and a long finish enhance this wine. The 2009 Estate Syrah ($30) is another easy drinking wine, big and fruity with restrained tannins and mild spice and earth elements.

For me, the star of the tasting, and the only wine I purchased this trip, was the 2005 Paramour ($90). Abacela makes 4 different Tempranillos and this is the top of their line. Inspired by the iconic Vega Sicilia Unico, Earl has long desired to make a Gran Reserva style, and the great vintage of 2005 provided him an opportunity. 2005 also happened to be an excellent vintage in Spain too. One key difference between Spanish Gran Reservas and the Paramour is that Earl chose to use French oak rather than American. The Paramour spent about two years in French oak barrels (30% new) and then four years in the bottle. Only 170 cases of this wine were produced, using very much hands-on wine making processes. They believe the 2005 Paramour will reach its full maturity in 2017 and plateau around 2029.They will produce additional Paramour wines, in exceptional vintages.

This was an amazing wine, and reminded me of some high end Spanish Tempranillo wines. From its alluring aromas to its complex melange of flavors, this wine impressed from start to finish. I think it was very drinkable now, and will continue to remain strong for years to come. It is difficult to describe this wine, which is something you need to experience and which mere words cannot adequately encapsulate. Each sip brings new flavors to mind, and it is a wine to slowly savor over dinner, with great friends. Earl should be extremely proud of the Paramour, and this wine is evidence of how well Tempranillo can be produced in Southern Oregon.

After dinner, we got to try a wine that hadn't been released yet, which had been bottled the week before, the 2008 "Five Year" Tawny Port ($37.50/500ml). They have made other Ports before, since 1999, and were grandfathered by law so they can legally use the term "Port" on their wines. This is their first Tawny style, and unlike many other American style Ports, they use five Portuguese grapes in their blend, including Bastardo, Tinta Amarela, Tinta Cao, Tinta Roriz, and Touriga Nacional. They acquire their brandy from Clear Creek Distillery, and aged this Tawny for five years in neutral oak. Only 200 cases were produced and it has an alcohol content of 19%.

A delicious and complex taste, with plenty of flavor, including raisin, fig, ripe plum, caramel, and nutty notes. Very concentrated flavors, well balanced, smooth and with a lingering finish. In a blind taste test with Portuguese Tawny Ports, you would likely be hard pressed to pick out the Abacela.

Abacela Vineyards is a star of Southern Oregon, and Earl's dreams have come to fruition in his exceptional Paramour. Much of his success is due to his extensive data collection and analysis of the terroir, which is important for all wineries that are concerned with terroir. Experimentation is still important in Southern Oregon as well, to learn which grapes grow best, which grapes will one day be the signature grapes of the region. If visiting Southern Oregon, make sure to check out Abacela.

Cowhorn Vineyards: A Biodynamic Choice

Even if you didn't know it was Biodynamic, the name of Cowhorn Vineyards might clue you in as cowhorn is integral to one of the more famous Biiodynamic preparations. Preparation 500 is essentially a cow horn, filled with a cow manure mixture, that is buried in the ground. The purpose of this preparation is to improve soil structure and microbiological activity. It is considered by some to be one of the key preparations for Biodynamics. Cowhorn Vineyards is the only certified Biodynamic vineyard in Southern Oregon, though you will find a number of others in the Willamette Valley.

Cowhorn is owned by Bill and Barbara Steele, and this is a second career for them. Bill was a Wall Street analyst for about 20 years while Barbara was involved in accounting and finance. That seems quite removed from owning a vineyard. However, some of Barbara's clients were farmers and she eventually became enamored with farming, desirous of getting involved in the soil. Bill was amenable to a big change and willing to delve into agriculture. They had family in Oregon and after a vacation there in 2001, they decided to move to Ashland, Oregon.

Initially, they had not been wine drinkers, preferring beer, but Barbara's brother was a wine writer, and they eventually started drinking and enjoying wine. Their growing passion for wine led to their decision to start a vineyard and try to make wine. A bold move for two people who had never been involved in farming before. They wanted a blank canvas, something which they could transform into whatever they desired. In addition, they sought an isolated farm with good water rights, and in 2002, finally found what they desired, an abandoned farm. The estate comprised 117 acres, 60 which were flat, and the land reached to the Applegate River.

They hired some consultants to analyze their land and it was found to be especially conducive to Rhone grapes. The Steeles initially planted about 11 acres of vines, which has now grown to 23 acres. The vines are densely planted, and nearly all are Rhone varietals. This endeavor was a huge challenge to these novice farmers and there was a steep learning curve, yet they were up for the challenge. For example, they were able to create and construct their winery in only 10.5 months. Everything had to be started from scratch, a formidable endeavor in which they immersed themselves.

Bill stated that prior to moving to Oregon, they had lived an organic/homeopathic lifestyle, and that included their dogs as well. Biodynamics was similar to their philosophy so it was an easy decision to choose to adopt it for their vineyard. Bill is a true believer but doesn't push his ideas on anyone, stating that his philosophy is a choice, a preference, and it is not about right or wrong. The vineyard and winery has been Demeter certified since 2006, and the health of their soil is of utmost importance to them.

The property has been fenced in since 2004, to prevent animals from wandering onto the property, including mountain lions which inhabit the region. In the future, they may choose to raise their own animals, as they as an important aspect of Biodynamics. At the time of our visit, they hadn't yet begun harvesting, unlike many of the other Southern Oregon wineries, as their site tends to be cooler than many of the surrounding farms. It is a beautiful site, surrounded by mountains, with lots of trees and lush vegetation. There is an air of serenity as well, almost a step back into the past.

Data collection is important to them, allowing them to better understand their vineyard, and that isn't a surprise knowing Bill used to be a financial analyst. That analytical nature might seem incongruent with his embrace of Biodynamics but Bill doesn't feel that it is the case. He stated that his greatest challenge was maintaining his sanity, with so much work that needs to be done, the risks of weather, the unexpected complications, and so much more. It can almost be overwhelming, especially as they had no prior experience. It helps that the people of the wineries of Southern Oregon are very cooperative, and quickly lend assistance and advice when needed.

Though the misinformed might think Biodynamic farmers shun technology, that is not the case. For example, Bill's pump house, weighing in at 6 tons, is high-tech, a system of "pure math." And its blue and red colors make it stand out, helping to show visitors the different aspects of the winery. Bill and Barbara hired a wine consultant to assist with wine making, to show them what needed to be done. For their wines, they conduct little filtering and use their own sulfur dioxide. Though their annual production is low, and you might think their wines are only available in Oregon, some of their wines are actually distributed in New York.

This is Buddy, one of their dogs, and he followed us around much of our tour of the vineyard. He is a mimic, often imitating the actions of those around him. This was more than evident when we were at the vines and Bill encouraged us to taste some of the grapes. Buddy decided that meant he could do the same, and he grabbed an entire cluster of Viognier in his mouth and ran off to enjoy the grapes. I guess he thought they were ready for harvest.

Cowhorn produces a number of different wines, including whites, reds and a rosé, though we only tasted three of their wines. Bill lamented over the difficulties of using Grenache grapes, which could be transformed into a $35 wine, into a Rosé for which he could only charge around $22. That is certainly an issue common to other wine makers too, of how best to use their grapes.

The 2012 Spiral 36 ($28) is a blend of 50% Viognier, 30% Marsanne and 20% Roussane, and only 650 cases were produced. The wine spends about 3 months in French oak (80% neutral, 20% new), has an alcohol content of 13.5% and native yeasts are used. It was crisp and clean, with pleasant citrus, pineapple, and melon fruit flavors, as well as a nice richness on the palate.

The 2012 Marsanne Roussanne ($28) is a blend of 45% Marsanne and 44% Roussanne 55%, and only 125 cases were produced. The wine spends about 4 months in French oak (83% neutral, 17% new) and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. It too was crisp and clean, with notes of green apple, lemon, and apricot, with a backbone of minerality. Well balanced and a lengthy finish. Highly recommended.

The 2009 Syrah 80 ($35) is made from 100% Syrah, and only 630 cases were produced. It is named "80" because that is the number of frost hours in the growing season. The wine spends about 9 months in French oak (35% new) and has an alcohol content of 13.5%. I enjoyed this wine, finding it possessed a nice depth of flavor, excellent black and blue fruit flavors, a mild spiciness and a bit of floral aspect. It is more a wine of elegance than power, with a long and satisfying finish. A wine that beckons out for roast lamb, a hearty aged steak or a rich meat sauce.

Kriselle Cellars: From Engineer to Winemaker

Reach back in time....

Some of the original inhabitants of the Rogue Valley in Southern Oregon were the Takelma, Native Americans, who settled primarily along the Rogue River. Though their lands were agriculturally fertile, they only seemed to grow a single crop, tobacco. The influx of white settlers into the region during the gold rush of the 19th century caused friction with the indigenous population, eventually leading to the Rogue River Wars of 1855-56. That end result to these wars was the forced relocation of the Takelma to coastal lands in northern Oregon, leaving their fertile lands for white settlers. About 150 years later, some of those lands are now covered by vineyards.

Along the Rogue River, you will now find Kriselle Cellars, located on the 200 acre Buxton Ranch, which also raises horses and cows, even producing some American Waygu beef. With their first vineyard planted in 2006, they now have about 25 acres of vitis vinifera, mainly Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc and Tempranillo, but with small amounts of Malbec, Sangiovese, Sauvignon Blanc and Viognier. Their first vintage was 2009 and they now produce 2000-3000 cases annually, with sufficient facilities to accommodate growth, which they intend to be slow. They still buy about 45% of their grapes, though only from other vineyards in the Rogue Valley. Their beautiful tasting room only opened about one year ago.

Scott Steingraber, the owner and winemaker at Kriselle, originally worked for twenty years as a civil engineer, travelling often around the West Coast. As a hobby, he eventually started making wine at home when he spent some time in Utah. This led him to to take some winemaking classes at UC Davis though he never acquired a formal enology degree. Located just outside the entrance to their tasting room, and pictured above, is the actual wine press that Scott first used. He chose to name the winery after his wife, Krisell, though added an extra "e" so people would have an easier time pronouncing the word.

Why did he select Southern Oregon? About ten years ago, Scott was seeking to purchase a load of Pinot Noir grapes from the Willamette Valley. However, at that time, the seller also received a load of Cabernet Sauvignon from Southern Oregon. Scott sampled the Cabernet and found the taste intense and flavorful, and decided to purchase it instead of the Pinot. The source of the Cabernet intrigued him and that led to his further interest, and eventual purchase, of an estate in Southern Oregon.

Just inside their tasting room is a large buffalo statue, called "Statue of a Warrior," which was created by Michael Hamby, a former football player for the Buffalo Bills.

Because of his prior career as an engineer, as a winemaker, Scott is very data driven, analytic and regimented. He also relies on professional advice for assistance. He is more scientist than artist, but his wines do not seem clinical and sterile, instead possessing life and verve. Scott is also very keen on cleanliness and hygiene, and the walls of his 5000 square feet winery are painted white, making it easier to see any dirt or cleanliness issues. He stated that visitors to the winery think that it looks brand new, when it is merely pristine. Scott creates wines to be food friendly, and he also makes some 500ml bottles just because he likes that size. The logo on each bottle of wine is the image of a wine bottle rising up from a pile of soil, meant to symbolize the importance of terroir.

As for white wines, we tasted the 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ($21) and 2012 Viognier ($20), both crisp, dry and with pleasing flavors. Nicely balanced, these whites showcased the varietals well. As for reds, the 2010 Cabernet Sauvignon ($32) and 2009 Cabernet Franc ($27) were both big wines, but not overly so, possessed of delicious red & black fruit and spice flavors. The tannins were restrained and each possessed nice depths of flavor and complexity. I preferred the Cab Franc, which contains a little Cabernet Sauvignon, and it didn't evidence any vegetal notes. Either red wine would pair well with hearty dishes, from Pasta Bolognese to steaks.

My favorite wine of the tasting was the 2010 Di'Tani ($25), which is named after a Takelma word meaning "the rock above." It is a blend with about 50% Cabernet Franc and the rest a mix of Cabernet Sauvignon, Malbec, and Tempranillo. It is an intriguing wine with a harmonious blend of earthiness, red and black fruits, and dark spice. Good acidity, manageable tannins and a lengthy, satisfying finish. Highly recommended.

Scott is representative of some of the winery owners in Southern Oregon who have taken on wine as their second career. After a lengthy career as a civil engineer, Scott moved on to making his hobby a new profession. His career change was obviously fueled by passion, and it was evident in our discussions with him at the winery. I wish him the best of luck.

Folin Cellars & God, King, Slave: Young Winemakers & Experimentation

You "better like your own wine" and "don't make it just for consumer preferences."
--Rob Folin

This advice would seem to create a dichotomy between passionate wine makers, who enjoy drinking the wines they create, and more mercenary wine makers, who devise wines to please the masses but who wouldn't drink the wine themselves. Would you rather drink wines made by the former or latter? Personally, I would opt for the former, and I suspect many lovers feel the same way.

Continuing our tour of the wineries of Southern Oregon, we stopped at Folin Cellars, in the Rogue Valley, to meet two young wine makers, Rob Folin and Chris Jiron. They provided an intriguing perspective on Southern Oregon, wine making and marketing, and because of their youth, are part of the future of the region.

Rob Folin, pictured above, is laid back and personable, young and passionate. His parents owned a ranch in the Rogue Valley and had some kiwis planted, but they were not working well. Rob, who had a growing interest in wine making, convinced his parents in 2001 to plant some grapes, and now they have about 25 acres of vineyards planted, including grapes such as Viognier, Tempranillo, Mourvedre, Grenache, Petite Sirah, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Merlot. Rob doesn't believe they should stick with Pinot Noir, but should find the grapes which grow the best in their soils. Last year, their harvest started in October and they harvested about 60 tons but this year, the harvest began in September 11, and they expect to pick about 100 tons.

Initially, they sold all of their grapes to other wineries but eventually Rob wanted to create his own wine so they constructed a small winery, that now has a capacity of about 7000 cases. They still sell about 30% of their grapes, mainly to wineries in the Willamette Valley. For their own wines, they use only estate grapes and produce about 1500-2000 cases annually, though Rob also makes a few thousand custom crush wines for others. He distributes only a small amount of wine outside of Oregon as it is difficult to do so because of all the time and effort involved. His wines are a hand sell, and with such a small operation, Rob doesn't have the time to travel all across the country marketing and trying to sell his wines.

Rob likes being experimental, claiming that his youth allows him the opportunity to work on any wild idea he possesses, especially as there is no one hovering over his shoulder preventing him from taking chances. He experiments in the vineyards and the winery, and is always trying to create new wines. However, he also noted that because of the small size of the winery, he has to be very careful not to make a major mistake, which could significantly hurt the winery. It thus becomes a balancing act, to take risks, but calculated ones which won't destroy everything he has built. This raises an intriguing question: Are young wine makers, in general, more experimental than older wine makers? Are they less adverse to risk?

To Rob, "wine is a story" and he believes in being social, in marketing himself, including through social media. As such, he interacts with many potential customers in Oregon, including young wine drinkers. Overall, he believes that grenache is on an upswing in Southern Oregon, and that Viognier and Syrah are doing well too. Rob also mentioned that blends seems to appeal to younger wine drinkers, who feel that Chardonnay is too boring and Pinot Noir is too pricey. If true, maybe Oregon, if it wants to attract more younger drinkers, needs to produce more wines besides Pinot and Chardonnay.

Folin doesn't use corks in his wines, preferring to use screw caps or vinoseals. In addition, if you peruse one of their back labels, you won't find any tasting notes. Instead, there is a series of blank lines, as Rob believes you should be creating your own descriptors, based on your own taste. He doesn't want to try to tell you what you "should" be tasting in his wines. That might make the wine a harder sell on a wine store shelf if a consumer is seeking a certain flavor profile, which means these wines are more of a hand sell. However, you have to respect Rob's philosophy, placing the consumer's taste front and center over his own.

In honor of Rob's philosophy, I'll do the same in my reviews of three of his wines. Just know that I recommend all three of these wines, and encourage you to taste other wines of Folin Cellars too if you get the opportunity.

The 2009 Folin Cellars Miscero ($34) is a blend of about 50% Syrah, 37% Mourvedre and 13% Grenache with an alcohol content of 14.1%. A Rhone-style blend which is likely to please your palate. Give me lamb or a juicy steak with this wine and I will be a happy diner.

The 2012 Folin Cellars Grenache Rose ($20) was my favorite wine of the tasting. It was the style of Rose that I most enjoy, and I will drink this wine year round, with and without food. Highly recommended to all.

The 2007 Folin Cellars Tempranillo Dessert Wine ($25/375ml) is made in a Port-style from 100% Tempranillo. They only made 48 cases and it will remind you of a Ruby Port. I would love to sip a glass of this with a plate of various blue cheeses.

Chris Jiron, pictured above, helps out Rob and also has his own wine label, God, King, Slave. Chris actually started out wine blogging about Southern Oregon and eventually moved into wine making, wanting to be on the ground floor of an emerging wine region. He began producing wine in 2009, now making his wines at Folin Cellars with an annual production of around 400 cases from fruit that he purchases in Southern Oregon.

The name of his winery derives from a famous saying by Constantin Brancusi, a Romanian sculptor, which states: "Work like a slave; command like a king; create like a god." He has had a few problems with his use of the term "god" on his label, though it doesn't appear those individuals are aware of the quote itself.

He doesn't have a tasting room, but makes himself available to people who give him a call and want to meet him to taste. Most of his wines are sold in Portland and he markets himself, not a brand, similar to what Rob does. As with Rob, social media is very important to Chris too. He feels that the younger generation of winemakers want to create different wines, to experiment, which follows Rob's thoughts as well. Chris though feels that "millennial marketing is silly" and that though the younger generation is interested in wine, it is still the older generation that is buying more of the wine.

The 2012 Sauvignon Blanc ($18-$19) is aged sur lie, has an alcohol content of 13.6% and only about 60-70 cases were produced. It has a richer taste and mouthfeel, with plenty of grapefruit and lime flavors. Good acidity, nicely balanced, and very easy to drink.

My favorite of the three wines I tasted was the 2012 Kinfolk ($24), a blend of 40% Viognier, 30% Marsanne, and 30% Roussanne. About 105 cases were produced and the wines has an alcohol content of 14.2%. It aroma was alluring, a complex melange of fruit and floral, with other subtle aromatics.On the palate, it too had a richer mouthfeel, with a complex blend of flavors, including peach, citrus, herbs, and some minerality. Crisp and dry, it had an extremely pleasing finish. Highly recommended.

The 2010 Syrah-Tempranillo ($27), is a 50/50 blend and about 100 cases were produced. The Syrah is intended to soften the tannins of the Tempranillo and this is the second vintage of this wine. It is made in a lighter style, with restrained tannins, but it possesses deep flavors, from black cherry to plum, intense spice to violet notes. With balanced acidity and a lengthy finish, it is a satisfying wine that would pair well with hearty dishes, from roast pig to a thick T-bone.

Rob and Chris represent some of the young winemakers in Southern Oregon, passionate people who love to experiment, who don't feel bound by restrictions. They feel free to let their imaginations run wild, though they still have their feet on the ground, understanding that it is also a business. They spend plenty of time interacting with customers, and understand the value of social media. They are producing some interesting wines and I see much potential in these two men. As Southern Oregon becomes more and more well know, you likely will hear more about Folin Cellars and God, King, Slave.