Wine in a Bag: Box or Barrel?

Which appeals to you more? Finding a small wine barrel at the bar or a box of wine? Many people would probably prefer the barrel. Yet the difference between the barrel and the box is mere appearances. It may alter your perception of the wine, though the wine itself may not be any different.

DeLoach Vineyards has created "Barrel to Barrel," an interesting twist on wine-by-the-glass. They now sell barrels that hold ten liters of wine, currently their 2008 Pinot Noir. Though only 50 of these barrels were produced. A restaurant or other establishment can place the barrel atop their bar, to use to pour glasses of wine. It should appeal to consumers, making them feel like they are having a cellar experience, drinking wine straight from the barrel.

But looks can be deceiving. The wine is actually being held inside the barrel by a special "Eco Bag," which will minimize oxidation and keep the wine fresher for longer. The barrel can even be refilled by just inserting another bag of wine. This is the concept behind wine in a box, just made to look much nicer. This is environmentally friendly in a number of ways.

Vox Populi, an American bistro and martini bar in the Back Bay, bought two of these barrels and feature the Pinot Noir by the glass at $9.

Vox Populi Proprietor, Joseph Quattrocchi, said about the DeLoach partnership: “At Vox, we’re about bringing all kinds of experiences straight to the people. With DeLoach, we hope to transport the vineyard tasting experience straight to Boston in the form their cellar-to-glass model.”

I think the barrel will be far more popular than boxed wines, as it gives the illusion of a wine cellar experience. Kudos for the wine being more ecofriendly.

Vintages: Adventures in Wine

I am on numerous wine store mailing lists as I like to keep updated on what is going on in the local wine community. I learn about intriguing wine tastings or wine maker visits. For a time, I have been receiving emails from Vintages: Adventures in Wine, a wine store with locations in West Concord and Belmont. Though I have found the emails to be fascinating, it was only until very recently that I stopped by their Belmont location.

I don't get to Belmont enough, though I should, especially now that the new Il Casale restaurant has opened there. So, when I needed to make a trip to Belmont, I planned to stop by Vintages to check it out. Vintages is owned by Eric Broege and Carolyn Kemp, husband and wife. They first opened the West Concord store and last year opened the Belmont store.

Based on their website listings, I had a preconception that most of their wines were Italian, with a small bunch of French wines and a few Spanish ones. I wondered how it would compare to Italian Wine Merchants in NYC.

As you step into the small store, about 600 square feet, there is a large chalkboard to your left with a list of new arrivals and specials. Plus, there is a refrigerator with cheese and other gourmet foods. That is a nice addition as wine and cheese often go so well together.

Wines are primarily shelved on both the left and right walls. Down the center of the store are counters with other wines, and refrigerated storage units within the counters. They certainly have made full use of their limited space without making the store appear over crowded. They display around 700 or so wines, close to 50 wines in each shelving section. That is certainly a good amount of available choices.

My preconception was not fully accurate. There is more diversity in their wine selection than the website seems to indicte. There are a number of omissions but they are intentional. Most of the right side of the store contains Italian wines, from top producers like Gaja and more unique wine makers like Gravner. Yet Italian wines actually make up less than 50% of their selection. They carry a significant number of French wines, including Bordeaux, Burgundy, Rhone and Champagne. They even carry some California wines, apparently mainly from small producers such as Sutton Cellars. In the photo below, you can see all of the Spanish wines they sell. They even carry plenty of dessert wines.

What about their prices? No worries there as prices are reasonable and comparable to most other wine stores. You are not going to overpay here for either low end or high end wines. And you will find plenty of inexpensive wines here, despite the numerous high end wines the carry.

It is interesting that the store fails to carry wines from a number of different and popular regions. It feels very much like a personal store, stocked with the wines the owner loves. To me, it is indicative of the passion of the owner, and his desire to share that passion with others. This is not a wine store that will appeal to everyone, that will cater to all tastes. But, if you share the tastes of the owner, if you really enjoy French, Spanish and Italian wines, then you will very much enjoy this store.

In the regions it does carry, it has plenty of diversity as well as carrying some of the top wines of those regions. I am a fan of these regions, so this store really appealed to me.

Vintages gets my hearty recommendation!

53 Commonwealth Ave.
West Concord, MA
Phone: 978-369-2545

32 Leonard Street
Belmont Center, MA
Phone: 617-484-4560

Burtons Grill: Brunch

If savory Frittatas are what you crave or maybe sugary Griddle Cakes, then head over to Burtons Grill and enjoy their new Sunday Brunch menu!

Every Sunday from 11:30am-3pm, satisfy your cravings at the North Andover Burtons Grill location with delicious culinary delights such as: Burtons’ Griddle Cakes topped with seasonal fruit, served with maple syrup and your choice of sausage or bacon ($12.95). If that isn’t appetizing enough, try the Filet Benedict, a combination of two filet grilled medallions served on English muffins with two poached eggs topped with lemon hollandaise sauce ($16.95). The Sunday Brunch menu also features an assortment of refreshing cocktails such as a Bloody Maria ($9) made with Milagro Tequila, a fire roasted pepper infused tequila, or a delicious Peach Bellini ($8) prepared with peach purée, Bacardi peach rum and champagne!

Reservations are recommended and can be made by calling (978) 688-5600.

BRUNCH FEATURES

Filet Benedict* 16.95
Two filet medallions seasoned and grilled, served on English muffins, topped with two poached eggs and lemon hollandaise sauce, served with seasonal fruit from Smolak Farms and home fries.
Crab Cakes Benedict* 14.95
Two crab cakes seasoned and seared, served on English muffins, topped with two poached eggs and lemon hollandaise sauce, served with seasonal fruit Smolak Farms and home fries.

Chef’s Seasonal Omelette 15.95
Three egg omelet stuffed with lobster, asparagus, manchego and cheddar cheese, served with seasonal fruit, home fries and choice of toast.

Burtons’ Griddle Cakes 12.95
Three griddled cakes, topped with seasonal fruit, served with Vermont maple syrup with choice of sausage or bacon.

Chef’s Frittata 11.95
Burtons oven baked omelet with zucchini, onions, oregano, parsley and cheddar cheese, served with home fries, choice of toast and bacon or sausage.

Smoked Salmon Plate 12.95
Smoked salmon, English cucumbers, tomatoes, red onions, capers, olives, cream cheese, chives, and a griddled bagel.

SIDES

Bacon 3.95 Fruit 3.95 Sausage 3.95 Home Fries 2.95

BRUNCH BEVERAGES

Mimosa 8
Bloody Maria 9
Peach Bellini 8
Kenyan AA Coffee 2.50
Espresso 3
Cappuccino 4
Latte 3.50
Mochaccino 3.75
Assorted Juices Available

WBW#59: Guest Post by John Gauntner

I am extremely pleased that John Gauntner, a famed Saké authority and educator, has chosen to participate in Wine Blogging Wednesday #59! John lives in Japan, working and interacting in the Saké industry. The Japanese media refers to him as the "Saké Dendoushi" ("Saké Evangelist"), for his intense devotion to the promotion of Saké.

He has several books about Saké, including his latest: Saké's Hidden Stories: The Personalities, Philosophies, and Tricks-of-the-Trade Behind the Brew. I recently reviewed that book and really loved it.

John has chosen to review a new Saké from Hakkaisan, and here is his review.

"Hakkaisan from Niigata recently released a tokubetsu junmai-shu, a relatively young sake just brewed this spring, released in June, so laid down a scant two months. It was (note past tense!) a genshu, but the alcohol was a lowish-for-genshu 18%.

I was told it was the first time Hakkaisan made such a sake, as they do not make junmai-shu (excluding of course the ginjo range). They also only made a small amount and presold it, so that it all disappeared instantly. I was part of that pre-order frenzy and scored a small bottle.

How'd it taste? Rich, young, tight, clean and balanced. It was, on one hand, very much a Hakkaisan product, in that it had nothing even resembling off flavors or roughness. Very clean and bright. But it also had much more fullness than most of their products, and was lower in acidity than most junmai-shu.

Also, two more things made it signficant. One, the slightly higher alcohol boosted both impact and a little sweetness. Two, the choice of yeasts. I had to look this up on the internet and the research confirmed my "suspicion" that they used yeast #1801, giving it this lovely berry-like aroma yet plenty of balance. (The actually blended #1001 and 1801, for those that really care...).
More relevant to drinkers, it was fruity in the mid-palate in both flavor and aromas but not ostentatious or overly aromatic. Mostly berry-like stuff: cranberry, raspberry, a bit of apple too I guess.

...and it finished tightly, cleanly and definitely. Lovely overall, if
young."

John Gauntner

WBW #59: Homage to Kushi no Kami

Kanpai!

Today is Wine Blogging Wednesday #59, an Homage to Kushi no Kami, the god of Saké. For this month's theme, people were to conduct their own kikishu (“Saké tasting”) by selecting any Saké and reviewing it. They could earn bonus points if they reviewed multiple Sakés of different styles or types, as well as if they paired Saké with food. My hope was that people would explore this unique beverage, and maybe gain a better appreciation for it.

For my own kikishu, I have tasted two different Sakés, both which I had bought from Sakaya, the all-Saké store in New York City. I decided on Saké breweries with history, older producers. I also chose two different types, a Junmai and a Junmai Ginjo. Plus, one was a Yamahai.

First up is the Sato No Homare "Pride of the Village" Junmai Ginjo ($57.99/720ml) which was brewed by the Sudo Honke brewery in the town of Obara in the Ibaraki prefecture. This is the oldest, still operating Saké brewery in the world, having been founded back in 1146 A.D. It is over 860 years old! Are there any wineries which are that old?

The brewery is currently operated by the 55th generation of continuous family ownership. What a sense of history then when you open a bottle of their Saké. Compared to most producers, the brewery only makes a small amount of Saké each year. Plus, they only produce quality Saké, only Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo.

This particular Saké was made from Yamada Nishiki rice, which was polished to 50%. Thus it could qualify as a Daiginjo but the brewery chose to release it only as a Ginjo. This Saké has an alcohol content of 15.1% and a Saké Meter Value of +3, making it a slightly dry Saké. Smelling this Saké, you might be surprised to get aromas of violets, pear and subtle red fruits. Then when you taste it, you'll find it silky, clean and light. The flavors echo some of the smells, though the fruit flavors are more prominent than the floral notes. As you concentrate, you will realize the complexity of the taste and with its lengthy finish, you will have plenty of time to ponder over the flavors. This is an elegant Saké yet with some body. An exceptional example of the great potential of Saké. This should appeal to anyone.

I drank this with a roasted chicken dish and think it paired up well. The Saké was not overpowered and it was hearty enough to stand up to the food too. It seemed to refresh my palate, while its flavors helped to complement the savory spices on the chicken. I would not have paired this Saké though with a spicy hot dish.

Next up was the Kuro Obi "Black Belt" Do-D0 Junmai Yamahai ($41.99/720 ml) which was brewed by the Fukumitsuya Saké brewery in the Chubu region of the Ishikawa Prefecture. The brewery was founded in 1625 A.D., so it has over 380 years old of history. They make only Junmais though they make a variety of different brands.

This particular Saké was made from Yamada Nishiki and Kinmon Nishiki rice, which was polished to 65%. This Saké has an alcohol content of 15% and a Saké Meter Value of +5, making it a dry Saké. What makes this Saké more unique is that is it a Yamahai. That means that the brewer uses native yeasts, those just floating in the air of the brewery. It is very risky though so very few brewers make this style any more. Yet when they succeed, a Yamahai can be rich and acidic, much more like a red wine.

This Saké had a pale, yellow color to it and an earthy nose, maybe some mushroom and almost a slight milky smell. It was a rich, full-bodied drink with pronounced earthiness and a certain creaminess to it. It was a more unusual taste, certainly very different from the fruity Sato No Homare. It seemed more rustic, which could very well be due to the use of native yeasts. I enjoyed this for its more unusual taste though it probably would not appeal to a newcomer to Saké.

Thanks to everyone who participated in WBW#59 and I will endeavor to get the summary posted as soon as I can. Thanks as well to Lenn of Lenndevours: The NY Cork Report for allowing me to choose this theme as well as for starting the whole idea of Wine Blogging Wednesday. I hope everyone enjoyed the theme, maybe learned a thing or two, and hopefully there were a few converts to Saké.