2018: Favorite Restaurants & Food-Related Items

What were some of my favorite restaurants of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted my three Top Wine lists, my Favorite Wine-Related Items, and my Top Ten Favorite Restaurant Dishes, and now I want to address my Favorite Restaurants of the past year as well as some of my other Favorite Food-Related Items

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable restaurants and food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more Restaurant reviews, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Hot New Restaurants: This category includes several restaurants that have opened in the last few months, which have already impressed me, but which I haven't yet written a review. In early 2019, I'll likely review these worthy restaurants (after additional visits).
     Tonno in Wakefield: This is the second location of Chef Anthony Caturano's Italian Seafood restaurant. I eagerly anticipated its opening and it easily lives up to my high expectations.
     Kamakura in Boston: Chef Youji Iwakura has brought Japanese Kaiseki cuisine to Boston and the restaurant is aesthetically cool and the food is killer.
     Feng Shui in Burlington: The sixth location of this Chinese restaurant opened near the Burlington Mall and their lunch buffet is compelling, and their cocktails are quite good.
     Home Taste in Arlington: A second location of this Chinese restaurant, they specialize in delicious hand-pulled noodles. hand-made dumplings, Chinese casseroles and more.
     Aaron's Taco Cart'el in Stoneham: A small, casual and tasty spot for tacos, burritos and nachos, where  customization rules.

Favorite New Haitian/Dominican Restaurant: From delightfully flaky Paté to Jerk Beef Sliders, from savory Griot to a Cream Corn Souffle, Infused Kreyol in Malden is making delicious and compelling food. It's a tiny spot that once was home to a bakery but it's well worth seeking out. This isn't a cuisine you often see in the Malden+ area and thus there was a need for such a restaurant. Prices are very reasonable, service is usually very good, and the freshness of their dishes is impressive. And their Paté was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Suburban Italian Restaurant: Il Casale, with locations in Belmont and Lexington, is killing it, especially with their wine dinners. Such professional service, exquisite food, and interesting drinks, from wine to cocktails. Their popularity, judged by how they can sell out an entire restaurant for a wine dinner when most other places are lucky to fill a table or two, is indicative of how well they are received in their community. And their Ragu Bianco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite South American Restaurant: In Watertown, the former owners the famed Cambridge restaurant Salts, have started a new restaurant, La Bodega By Salts, which reflects owner Analia Verolo's homeland of Uruguay. Much of the menu consists of small plates, a great way to experience a number of dishes, which either have Uruguayan or Spanish roots. The food is fantastic, the wine list has plenty of Uruguayan wines, and their cocktails are stellar. Service is excellent and the restaurant itself is cool, especially where they have reused an old railroad car. And their Chivito was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Japanese Restaurant: Chef Chris Chung is rocking it in Inman Square in Cambridge at Momi Nonmi, a casual Japanese izakaya with some Hawaiian influence. The food is amazing, with ingredients that are fresh and high quality, including rarities not commonly found in the area. The cuisine is also inventive and innovative, with plenty of special dinner events. Chef Chung's culinary skills are top notch. They also have an impressive Sake, Shochu and cocktail program. Again, this is another small restaurant but one you should not miss. And their Teppanyaki Loco Moco was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Tasting Menu: Around since 2016, The Table at Season To Taste, located in North Cambridge, offers a four-course tasting menu each evening which changes every 4-6 weeks. You have two options for each course and the food is delicious and inventive, supported by an excellent wine program. It is a small and cozy restaurant, with an open kitchen, and you receive very professional service. And their Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Brunch: At Ledger Restaurant & Bar, in Salem, they have an excellent Brunch Menu, from a 22-ounce Bloody Mary to their home-made Donuts, from Eggs Benedict to Banana Bread. Excellent service, a patio during the summer, and a menu of enticing dishes. Have a breakfast dish or a more lunch dish, such as a Fried Chicken Thigh Sandwich or a Breakfast Burger. And their Chicken & Waffles was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Fusion Cuisine: Though it was only available for several days around Cinco de Mayo, the "Grexico" menu, a combination of Mexican and Greek cuisine, at Committee was fusion cuisine at its best. The various dishes seamlessly blended ingredients from both cuisines, creating delicious and inventive dishes that thoroughly impressed me. Grecomole, Guajillo Hummus, Churros with Merenda, and much more. I hope they will hold this event again in 2019, and I could easily see this fusion cuisine centering a new restaurant. And their Lamb Barbacoa Tacos was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Chef's Return: Famed Chef Marisa Iocco returned to Spiga in Needham, transforming their Italian menu but maintaining some of his well-known specialties. You'll find dishes like Guazzetti, a unique Italian stew and Spiga might be the only local restaurant serving this item. Their Pizza is excellent and their Pasta dishes are killer. A cozy spot, it is open for lunch and dinner, and is worth the journey to Needham. And their Timballo was one of my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of 2018.

Favorite Restaurant Dessert: After enjoying the savory options from Chef Marisa Iocco at Spiga, you can peruse their Dessert menu but I think your best option is her famed Bread Pudding, which I first enjoyed several years ago. I've even recommended people start their meal with the Bread Pudding so you ensure you aren't too full after dinner to enjoy it. Every spoonful is absolutely delicious, a hedonistic treat which I cannot recommend enough. Great texture to the bread, a nice blend of sweet and salty in the sauce, and nice hints of vanilla. We really need a bakery that specializes in Bread Pudding.

Favorite Hidden Restaurant City: Malden has plenty of interesting restaurants, especially Asian ones, but you wouldn't suspect that some fascinating dishes are "hidden" within rather ordinary appearing spots. From its storefront, you'd think Classic Pizza is your typical pizza and sub shop however they also have a small, but delicious menu of Indian dishes, including a killer Chicken Tikka Masala. Jay's Pizza also appears to be a normal pizza and sub joint, but they also sell Nepalese Momos, dumplings. In 2019, I'll be checking out other pizza joints in Malden to see if any others are hiding more unique and tasty dishes.

Favorite Food Book: Written  by Gabriella Opaz & Sonia Andersson Nolasco, with photography by Ryan Opaz, the compelling Porto: Stories From Portugal's Historic The Bolhão Market succeeds on many levels. It discusses the history of Portuguese cuisine while also telling intimate stories of the various vendors at the Bolhão Market. This is not some dry travelogue but rather a seductive lure intended to convert you into a culinary lover of northern Portugal. It will work well as a reference guide as well, something to turn to from time to time to better understand Portuguese cuisine. Highly recommended.

Favorite Culinary School: NECAT is a local culinary school which trains people from challenging backgrounds, from ex-convicts to recovering addicts, from the homeless to the chronically unemployed. NECAT fills an important need for culinary help while helping numerous people achieve a better life. It is such a worthy school, helping to transform lives, and it really touches my heart. It helps individuals while also helping the community, having recently celebrated its 5th Anniversary. I continue to try to raise awareness of NECAT so that its good work can continue and even expand.

Favorite Food Trade Event: Once again, I have selected the Seafood Expo North America (SENA) as my favorite. It is a massive trade event, a three day event showcasing purveyors of seafood and related vendors. You'll find tons of free seafood samples and learn plenty, from sustainability to cooking. The Seafood Show is an engaging event and you can read my latest articles here: Part 1, Part 2, Part 3. The Seafood Show is compelling on many levels and I look forward to attending the next SENA in March 2019. Hope to see you there too.

Favorite Food History Article: This year, I'm especially proud of my article, "Water Doughnuts": Some Bagel History. I found numerous fascinating newspaper articles, dating back as far as 1930, about bagels. There were Recipes for making bagels at home, information about various flavored bagels, canned bagels, pizza bagels and more. More writers need to use old newspaper archives in their research as you never know what intriguing information you will find.

What were some of your favorite restaurants this year?

2018: Top Ten Restaurant Dishes

What were some of my favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2018. I have already posted three Top Wine lists and my Favorite Wine-Related Items. Now I want to move onto food and showcase my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of the past year.

This list includes ten dishes which I not only enjoyed immensely, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious or something more unique, but all stand out for some particular reason, above the other dishes I have tasted this past year. These are the type of dishes I would order again and again, and which I would highly recommend. And I'll note that all of these restaurants are located in Massachusetts.

This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable dishes I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. It is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This list is not in any order of preference, so all receive equal accolades. For more of my favorite restaurant dishes, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Ragu Bianco at Il Casale (Belmont)
At a San Felice wine dinner, I was thoroughly impressed with their Fusilli fatti in casa con ragù "bianco" di carne e salamino di cinghiale (Handmade fusilli with "white" meat ragù and diced wild boar salami). This "ragu bianco" is traditional mostly in northern Italy, including Tuscany, and it is made with cream rather than tomatoes. This was simply a perfect dish, with homemade pasta cooked just right, plenty of savory and tender meat, a touch of earthiness, and a cream sauce that added plenty of flavor. The sauce was neither cloying or overly heavy, and I could easily have devoured a couple more plates. It is rare to see a ragu bianco at local restaurants, and that really needs to change if this dish is an example of what can be created. The Chef even provided me a copy of the Recipe, and we've made it at home successfully.

Paté at Infused Kreyol (Malden)
Infused Kreyol serves Haitian and Dominican dishes and one of their Small Bites is the Paté, a flaky pastry filled with shredded chicken, ground beef, cod fish or veggie. I've tasted three of the four, excluding the veggie, and loved them! They are made fresh each day, and the pastry is light, flaky and buttery, exactly what you want it to be. The ample fillings have intense and tasty flavors, spiced well. And at only $2.50 each, they are a great value too. The Paté are kept near the register to it is easy to stop by and pick up a few to enjoy at home.

Shrimp Marsala at Island Creek Oyster Bar (Burlington)
This compelling dish is made with Casarecce pasta, roasted mushrooms, and Marsala cream. As I love a good Marsala sauce, I knew I had to try this dish and it was absolutely delicious, a rich dish which was well balanced, the key to the dish's success. The creamy Marsala sauce wasn't overly sweet and the pasta, cooked perfectly, and was an excellent vessel for the sauce. The plump shrimp, coated with the creamy Marsala, were exquisite and the roasted mushrooms added some earthiness and umami to the dish. It was comfort food, a hearty portion of Sicilian-inspired seafood.

Lamb Barbacoa Tacos at Committee (Boston)
To honor Cinco de Mayo, Committee created a special "Grexico" menu, fusing Greek and Mexican cuisines. My favorite dish of the evening were the Lamb Barbacoa Tacos, made with braised lamb, tzatziki, and Fix beer (a Greek beer) guajillo, atop grape leaf-corn tortillas. Grape leaves were crumbled into the mixture of the corn tortillas, providing its different color and texture. They were unique and delicious, such a delightful fusion of cuisines. Who would have thought such a combination could be so tasty? The lamb was moist and tender, just exquisitely prepared, and the entirety of the taco worked so well. I could easily see a Greek-Mexican Taco joint doing very well in the Boston area.

Timballo at Spiga (Needham)
This hearty dish is made with crespelle (kind of an Italian crepe), meat ragú, and locally sourced dried mozzarella. What an amazing dish, such excellent comfort food! It reminded me in some respects to a lasagna, though the crespelle is softer. The ragú contained plenty of flavorful meat in a superb red sauce, and there was lots and lots of gooey cheese. It is an amply portioned dish so bring your appetite. So much flavor in a superb dish, perfect for a chilly winter evening.

Chivito at La Bodega By Salts (Watertown)
Chivito, which literally means "small goat," is a popular sandwich in Uruguay, and generally is a steak sandwich with a variety of toppings. The Chivito al Pan is sliced beef tenderloin, country ham, bacon, and a fried egg. It is quite a large sandwich, and a bit messy to eat, but it was also quite tasty, with plenty of tender meats. The soft roll enhanced the sandwich, which is large enough to make its own meal. An excellent comfort food and I understand its popularity in Uruguay.

Teppanyaki Loco Moco by Momi Nonmi (Cambridge)
Speaking of comfort food, the Teppanyaki Loco Moco hits the spot. It is composed of a bed of rice, topped by a grilled grass-fed beef patty and a fried egg. Tableside, a sizzling gravy is then added to the dish. Wow, this would be the perfect hangover food! The rich and savory gravy was a superb addition to this dish, enhancing the flavor of the beef and egg. The yolk also added its own richness to the dish, and eating the gravy soaked rice was pure pleasure. I certainly didn't need or want a bun for this burger. You probably wouldn't expect to find a burger here, but you need to check it out as I bet you'll place it on your list as one of the best burger dishes in the Boston+ area.

Jhol Momos at Jay's Pizza (Malden)
Who would have suspected that your typical pizza, subs, and ice cream shop would also carry Nepalese Momos? Their Jhol Momo dish consists of 10 hot Momos in a cold broth. The dichotomy between the hot and cold was initially a little jarring, as it isn't a usual combination you find in many cuisines. However, after the initial trepidation, I found that the combination actually worked well. The momos themselves possessed a fairly thin dumpling wrapper that had just the right amount of consistency, and they were filled with an ample portion of a tasty pork and spice mixture. On their own, the momos make an excellent dumpling. Now, the cold broth was intriguing, with a strong and complex curry taste, and it added to the flavor of the momos. The broth seemed to have lowered the temperature of the momos, transforming the hot dumplings into a dish that worked well on a hot summer day.

Chicken & Waffles at Ledger Restaurant (Salem)
The Brunch menu at Ledger is compelling, from their Cinnamon Rolls (pictured at the very top of this article) to their Home-made Donuts. Their Chicken & Waffles entree includes buttermilk fried chicken, a corn waffle, green chile butter, hot honey, and a side of pickles. The fried chicken was superb, with a great, crisp and clean coating, moist chicken with an added sweetness from the honey. The waffle too was very good, with only a mild corn flavor, enhanced by a subtle spice from the green chile butter. One of the best Chicken & Waffles dishes I've enjoyed in some time, and it is highly recommended.

Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee at The Table At Season To Taste (Cambridge)
The Brown Rice & Sweet Potato Congee was made with wild boar sausage, Matsutake mushrooms, pine nuts, and Szechuan chili. Congee is basically an Asian-type of rice porridge, and there are many variations in the various Asian countries. This dish impressed me with its depth of flavor, varied textures, and it was perfect for a chilly fall evening. There was plenty of moist, tender wild boar, chunks of sweet potatoes, and crunchy pine nuts, There was a mild spiciness to the dish which built over time, and it was also an ample-sized dish. Pure comfort food and highly recommended.

What were some of your favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

The Compelling White Ragu From il Casale: The Recipe

As I posted earlier today, I recently attended a Tuscan-inspired wine dinner at il Casale Belmont, and was throughly impressed with their Fusilli fatti in casa con ragù "bianco" di carne e salamino di cinghiale (Handmade fusilli with "white" meat ragù and diced wild boar salami). This "ragu bianco" is traditional mostly in northern Italy, including Tuscany, and it is made with cream rather than tomatoes.

I previously wrote, "This was simply a perfect dish, with homemade pasta cooked just right, plenty of savory and tender meat, a touch of earthiness, and a cream sauce that added plenty of flavor. The sauce was neither cloying or overly heavy, and I could easily have devoured a couple more plates. Each bite was scrumptious and this dish probably will end up as one of my top ten dishes of 2018. It is rare to see a ragu bianco at local restaurants, and that really needs to change if this dish is an example of what can be created."

Chef Dante de Magistris and his culinary team at il Casale were generous enough to provide me the recipe for their White Ragu and have allowed me to share it with my readers. When I previously mentioned this dish on social media, it garnered some attention and people were certainly curious as to how it was made. So, now you can make this dish at home, though I still recommend you check out il Casale in Belmont or Lexington.

If you prepare this White Ragu, please get back to me about your results. And I will do the same, as I have definite plans to make this delicious recipe.

White Ragu alla Bolognese (Serves 10)

Ingredients:
3 tablespoons olive oil
1 pound ground beef
1 pound ground pork
1 pound ground veal
¼ pound pancetta, chopped coarsely
¼ pound mortadella, chopped coarsely
¼ pound chicken liver, chopped coarsely
1 Tablespoon finely chopped fresh sage leaves
1 small onion, chopped fine
1 carrot, chopped fine
1 celery stalk, chopped fine
6 tablespoons good quality tomato paste
2 cups red wine
6 cups brodo or chicken stock, hot
2 cups heavy cream
salt and pepper to taste

Method:
1. In a large deap saute pan, heat the olive oil over medium-high heat. Add beef, pork, veal, pancetta, mortadella, chicken liver and sage. Cook until all the meat is lightly browned. Drain excess fat and add onion, carrots and celery. Lower the heat to medium and cook, stirring until the onions are translucent and the carrots and celery are softened.
2. Stir in the tomato paste, and allow to cook with the tomato paste for 5 minutes. Turn the heat to high, add the red wine and allow the wine to reduce by ¾ the way. Add one cup of the hot meat broth. Cook, stirring occasionally to scrape up any residues sticking to the bottom of the pan, until all the broth has evaporated. Repeat this process twice more adding one cup of broth at a time. After the third cup of broth evaporates, add the remaining 3 cups of broth, lower the heat to a simmer and cook uncovered until sauce is thick approximately 2 hours.
3. Season with salt and pepper to taste.
4. Add heavy cream to Bolognese sauce and allow to simmer for 2 minutes.
5. Bring a pot of generously salted water to a boil, add the tagliatelle or your favorite pasta and cook until al dente. Strain pasta, toss with the bolognese sauce and a generous handful of grated Parmigiano Reggiano.

Though you can buy your choice of pasta to use with this White Ragu, I'm also including il Casale's recipe for their Tagliatelle pasta, if you are especially ambitious.

Tagliatelle pasta (Serves 10)

Ingredients:
1 pound ‘00’ flour
10 egg yolks plus 2 whole eggs (total weight should equal 11 ounces)
1 tablespoon salt

Method:
1. Place the flour on a pastry board or in a large mixing bowl. Make a well in the center of the flour, crack the eggs into the well and add the salt. Using your hands, beat the eggs, drawing the flour into the eggs a little at a time.
2. When the dough begins to hold together and the eggs are completely absorbed into the flour, it is ready to be kneaded. If you are using a bowl, move the dough to a flat work surface to knead. Flour your hands lightly. Work the dough with your hands until it forms a ball. Knead for 5 minutes by folding the dough toward you and then pressing it away from you with the heels of your hands, rotating the dough at quarter turns between each fold. You may have to add a little more flour to the dough and/or your hands during this time if the dough starts to stick. After you have finished kneading, and the dough is nice and smooth, wrap it in a clean, damp dishcloth and let it rest for 20 minutes. Divide the dough into 6 pieces.
3. Using a pasta machine, run each piece of dough through the machine, starting with the greatest thickness and moving down to the next smallest thickness each time through the very last, thinnest setting. Allow the dough to rest for about 10 minutes after you have rolled it out, or until it feels semidry to the touch. Roll each sheet of pasta, as for a jellyroll, and cut the rolls horizontally into ¼-inch strips, using a sharp knife. Unravel these strips and you will have your tagliatelle. Allow the strips to sit for about 10 minutes spread out, on wax paper, or a floured dishcloth.

Buon appetito!

San Felice Wine Dinner at Il Casale: Chianti Classico to the "Little Fist"

Tuscany is a historically rich area, and many famous personages lived in, passed through and/or enjoyed the Chianti and/or Chianti Classico region. From the famed poet Dante Aligheri to the extraordinary Leonardo da Vinci, from Amerigo Vespucci (where we derive the name America) to Giovanni da Verrazzano (the discoverer of Manhattan), from Galileo to Machiavelli. Michaelangelo was especially fond of the wines of this region and gifted some of their wines to the Pope. Plenty of ordinary people have passed through this area too, including myself, and it was sheer pleasure to witness the beauty of the region and enjoy their compelling cuisine and wines.

Earlier this week, I was invited as a media guest to attend a Tuscan-inspired wine dinner at il Casale Belmont, showcasing the Chianti Classico and Brunello wines of San Felice Winery. Chef Dante de Magistris and his brothers, Filippo and Damian, co-own il Casale, an Italian restaurant which opened back in 2009 in Belmont on the site of a former firehouse. Belmont is their hometown and when the firehouse was in operation, it once made a call to a fire at the de Magistris home.

Chef Dante and his brothers have just opened a new restaurant, The Wellington, located across the street from il Casale. As Chef Dante and his brothers are rather busy with this new endeavor, Chef Daniele Baliani (pictured above) took the lead on presenting the cuisine for this wine dinner. Daniele has worked with Chef Dante and the entire team on and off for 24 years at both il Casale Belmont and Lexington. Daniele started his career back in 1987 and spent some time studying and working in Tuscany.

The demand for this dinner was so high that the restaurant shut down regular service for the evening, hosting only the wine dinner. Now, when you have so many people, over 100, all enjoying the same dishes, at the same time, there is always a slight worry that it will overwhelm the kitchen, and that your dishes will be less than hot when they reach your table. However, that was not the case at all, as each dish we enjoyed was at an optimal temperature. Their professional kitchen is obviously well experienced in dealing with such crowds and know exactly how to handle the situation. Overall, the dinner was superb, with excellent food, wines, and service.

The event offered a five course dinner, paired with Chianti and Brunello wines, and presided over by Marco Secola (pictured above), a native of Florence, Italy, and the U.S. East Coast brand ambassador for San Felice Winery. Besides speaking on the microphone, so everyone could hear his comments, Marco also made sure to stop by all the individual tables at least a couple times, for a more personal talk about the wines and the winery, including showing photographs of the beautiful estate.

The village of Borgo San Felice extends back to at least 714 AD though the Pieve San Felice, a church, traces its root back to the ancient Etruscans. A "pieve" was originally a rural church with a baptistery, though it later also referred to the larger community based around that church. Throughout the Middle Ages, the village of San Felice was frequently the site of battles between the cities of Florence and Siena. Finally, in the 18th century, the village became the noble of the Del Taja family, who were based in Siena. One of their descendants, Giulio Grisaldi Del Taja would become a founder of the Consorzio del Chianti Classico in 1924.

During the 1970s, the land and vineyards in San Felice were acquired by the Allianz Group, an insurance and investment corporation. They invested heavily into creating a state of the art winery, though ensuring sustainability was an important objective. They now have a total estate of about 650 hectares, extending over two territories, Chianti Classico and Montalcino. Within Chianti Classico, they own over 140 hectares of vineyards, as well as about 17,000 olive trees. In Montalcino, they own the Campogiovanni estate, with 20 hectares of vineyards.

They are also involved in experimentation, especially concerning the biodiversity of vines. In their Vitiarium, they have been cultivating and studying about 270 grape varieties for about 30 years, seeking those which might grow best in their terroir and trying to save others from extinction. This is impressive research, well needed, and their results could benefit many other wineries in Italy, as well as elsewhere.

We began the evening with an aperitif of a glass of 2016 San Felice Perolla Vermentino ($15), which is made from 95% Vermentino and 5% Sauvignon Blanc. The wine matures on the lees for a month and then ages in the bottle for an additional two months. The wine is fresh and crisp, with pleasant tastes of grapefruit and lemon, with hints of tropical fruits on the finish. It is an easy drinking wine, intended to whet our appetites for what was to come.

The next wine of the evening was the 2017 San Felice Perolla Rosato ($12), a blend of 65% Sangiovese and 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, made in the saignee process. It had an alluring aroma and was pure deliciousness on the palate. Light bodied, crisp and dry, with bright red fruits (especially strawberry) and a savory touch. Refreshing and an excellent summer wine, it would also pair well with a variety of foods. And at this price, it is a very good value too. I plan on buying maybe a case of this wine to enjoy during the summer.

The First Course of the evening was Insalata di gamberetti con fagioli su bruschetta al pomodoro, olio al basilico (Rock shrimp salad with cannellini beans on tomato bruschetta with basil oil). Tuscans love cannellini beans, and they were tender, enhancing the taste of this dish, with the small shrimp, bright tomatoes, and basil notes. A good blend of textures and flavors, this went well with the Rosato. Off to a very positive step.

The Second Course, and my absolute favorite of the night, was the Fusilli fatti in casa con ragù "bianco" di carne e salamino di cinghiale (Handmade fusilli with "white" meat ragù and diced wild boar salami). This "ragu bianco" is traditional mostly in northern Italy, including Tuscany, and it is made with cream rather than tomatoes. This was simply a perfect dish, with homemade pasta cooked just right, plenty of savory and tender meat, a touch of earthiness, and a cream sauce that added plenty of flavor. The sauce was neither cloying or overly heavy, and I could easily have devoured a couple more plates. Each bite was scrumptious and this dish probably will end up as one of my top ten dishes of 2018. It is rare to see a ragu bianco at local restaurants, and that really needs to change if this dish is an example of what can be created. (And the recipe for this fine dish will soon be made available!)

With the Fusilli, we had two wines, both Chianti Classico. First, there was the 2014 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva ($25), made from 100% Sangiovese, which spent about 24 months in oak, 20% in small barriques, and 1 year in the bottle. It was made in a more traditional style, which is my preference, and was quite good, with good acidity, notes of cherry and black fruit, mild spice notes, and low tannins. It was delicious, but definitely does best when paired with food, especially meat or a hearty dish. To me, this is an example of a very good traditional Chianti Classico.

The second wine was my personal favorite of the evening, the stellar 2014 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($50). In 2013, the Gran Selezione designation was created, intended to represent the pinnacle of quality, akin to a Grand Cru, and it has different regulations than the Riserva category. Gran Selezione must be at least 80% Sangiovese, the rest chosen from a small group of approved grapes. It must also be aged for at least 30 months, rather than the Riserva 24 months. This new designation has been enmeshed in some controversy but it appears to be here to stay and we should be judging the wines on their merits.

This Gran Selezione is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, with the rest a blend of indigenous grapes including Abrusco (for color), Pugnitello (for structure), Malvasia Nera (for aroma and fruit), Ciliegiolo (for aroma and fruit) and Mazzese (for spice). The wine was barrel aged for about 24 months, 50% in large Slavonian oak casks and 50% in 225 and 500 liter French oak barriques. It then spent about 8 months aging in the bottle.

This was a WOW wine, impressive and compelling. The aromas seduced my nose, giving evidence of the quality that I would find within the wine. On the palate, it was silky smooth, with plenty of complexity, including ripe plum, black cherry, mild spice notes, hints of earthiness, and wisps of additional flavors that seemed to flit in and out. Well-balanced, fine acidity, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was the epitome of elegance and well worthy of the designation of Gran Selezione. This is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening, relishing each sip, finding new flavors within each taste. It is worth its price, and I bought two bottles during dinner. And I probably should have bought more. My highest recommendation!

The Third Course was a Quaglia Arrosto alle erbe aromatiche, cous-cous al pistacchio, molasse di melograno (Roast quail with aromatic herbs, pistachio couscous, and pomegranate molasses). Another excellent dish, the quail had tasty crispy skin, and was tender, flavorful and meaty, with few bones. And the nutty couscous was a fine addition to the quail. Quail definitely has a different taste than chicken, and the chef made a great choice in opting for it. Quail is popular in Tuscany and should be more popular locally too.

With the quail, we enjoyed the 2013 San Felice Campogiovanni Brunello di Montalcino ($65.00), made from 100% Sangiovese. The wine spent 3 years in Slavonian oak and 500 liter tonneaux, and then 12 months in the bottle. It was bold but elegant, with intense black fruit flavors, moderate spice notes, and moderate tannins. It was complex, savory and delicious. A fine example of what Brunello can offer. This wine will age very well, and didn't overwhelm the quail.

The Fourth Course was Wellington di manzo con spinaci, salsa al tartufo nero con gratin di patate tartufate (Beef Wellington with sautéed spinach, black truffle sauce and truffled potato gratin). This course was in honor of their new restaurant, The Wellington. The pastry was flaky and buttery, and the beef came out perfectly medium rare, enhanced by the subtle truffle sauce. The beef was tender and flavorful, meaty with a nice intensity. And the potato gratin was tender, cheesy and quite scrumptious.

Accompanying the Wellington was the 2013 San Felice Pugnitello ($55.00), made from 100% Pugnitello, an indigenous grape whose name means "little fist." This grape was nearly extinct but a vine was found on a small farm and sent to the University of Firenze in 1981. DNA testing indicated this vine had no known relationship to any other grapes. The University then collaborated with San Felice, which planted the vine, and it turned out Pugnitello was the most successful of over 250 grapes that San Felice had under experimentation. The grape acquired its name as the clusters resembled little fists.

San Felice's first release of a Pugnitello wine was in 2006, and they currently only produce about 500 cases of it each year. This wine spent about 18-20 months aging in 225 liter French oak barriques and then 8 more months in the bottle. It was made more in an international style. It has a deep, dark color and on the palate, the black fruit flavors are intense, accompanied by strong spice notes, vanilla, and hints of leather. It also has moderate tannins, good acidity, and is muscular yet still elegant with a long, long finish. It pairs well with beef and I certainly would like to try other examples of Pugnitello,  as at least a couple other wineries now make wines from this grape.

The Fifth Course, our dessert, was Cantucci tipici della Toscana....per intingere (Tuscan style almond biscotti....to dip in the Vin Santo) and Tartufi al cioccolato per la tavola (Chocolate truffles for the table). The biscotti, dipped in the wine, was pleasant though it was the truffle that captivated me, with its rich chocolate and creamy interior.

The San Felice Belcaro Vin Santo ($25.00/375ml) is a blend of Trebbiano and Malvasia grapes, which ages for 10-15 years in small, oak barrels. It is sweet, but balanced with strong acidity, and has intriguing Sherry notes, with flavors of caramel, dried fruit, citrus and salted almonds. A fitting end to this excellent evening.

I'll note that all of the San Felice wines are available from Cuvée Fine Wines, a Belmont wine shop located close to il Casala.

il Casale held an impressive wine dinner, delivering well on all levels. The food was compelling, the wines were interesting, and the service was exceptional. If you haven''t dined at il Casala before, then now is the time to change that. And you really should seek out the wines of San Felice, especially their Rosato and the Chianti Classico Gran Selezione.

Now, I need to check out the new The Wellington,

Wednesday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new special Wednesday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events. As tomorrow is Thanksgiving, I moved up this column this week.
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1) On Saturday, December 10, Pastry Chef Robert Differ of Mandarin Oriental, Boston invites pastry enthusiasts for an intimate and festive Holiday Pastry Decorating Workshop. This one hour and 30 minute hands-on class will feature tips and techniques required for mastering the art of holiday cake decorating.

Upon arrival, guests will sip a complimentary glass of sparkling prosecco or a rich cup of homemade hot cocoa while Chef Differ showcases how to bring each cake to life. Students will be provided with a freshly-baked chocolate present cake, filled with Italian buttercream, pre-wrapped with a choice of red or green fondant. Working with a variety of mediums, students will learn how to prepare, create and attach fondant bows and personalized gift tags made out of professional modeling chocolate. In addition, Chef Differ will also demonstrate how to use edible markers, festive cutouts and gold paint detailing to decorate and enhance each unique design.

After crafting these elaborate cake confections, guests will be able to bring their sweet masterpiece home to share with friends and family.

Chef Differ’s Holiday Pastry Decorating Workshop will begin at 10:30 A.M. and is available for $95 per person.
For more information or to make a class reservation please visit Eventbrite.com (https://www.eventbrite.com/e/holiday-pastry-decorating-workshop-tickets-29082467443).

2) Chef Dante de Magistris and his brothers Filippo and Damian are thrilled to share the launch of Sunday Brunch at il Casale Cucina Italiana in Belmont. Having just started on Sunday, November 20, Chef Dante de Magistris and his brothers offer Sunday Brunch service from 11:30 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Brunch-goers can enjoy the de Magistris’ spin on the classics with exclusive Brunch Beverages, Colazione Dolce (Sweet Breakfast), Colazione Salata (Savory Breakfast), Le Uova (Eggs) and Pranzo di Domenica (Sunday Lunch) options.

The menu opens with a selection of wines by the glass and brunch beverages carefully crafted by Co-Owner Damian de Magistris such as the bloody Mary with il Casale’s proprietary fra diavola mix and castelvetrano olives and the “cream no sugar” with earl gray iced tea, Kahlua, Frangelico, nardini amaro.

Standouts from the Colazione Dolce section include fritelle all’ Americana, traditional buttermilk pancakes, Vermont maple syrup and toast...alla Francese, brioche French toast, cinnamon vanilla batter, gelato butter, crispy pancetta. The Colazione Salata section features the S.L.T. with Nova Scotia smoked salmon, lettuce & tomato bruschetta, mascarpone rosemary fries. A robust section of Le Uova celebrates everyone’s favorite brunch staple with Uova in “purgatorio,” fried eggs in “purgatory” with spicy tomato sugo and four versions of Benedetto (tradizionale with crispy pancetta, Fiorentina with sautéed spinach, carne with sliced steak, granchio with house made crab cakes) all served on il Casale’s signature Pugliese bread with grilled lemon hollandaise and home fries.

The Pranzo di Domenica section of the menu includes il Casale Cucina Italiana’s most popular pasta dishes tagliatelle alla Bolognese, classic meat ragù from Emilia Romagna and chitarra alla carbonara, soft onions, guanciale, Pecorino Romano D.O.P. in addition to pesce spada alla Siciliana, blackened swordfish Sicilian style, eggplant caponata and pollo alla marengo, sauteed chicken breast, crispy pancetta, fried eggs, mushroom cream sauce.

WHEN: Sunday 11:30 a.m. – 2:30 p.m.
Reservations are suggested and can be made by calling 617-209-4942

3) Said to be superior in taste, large format wines are classified as anything more than 1.5 liters (the equivalent of two bottles of wine), and over 150 bottles are now once again available in 1.5, 3, 5 and even 6 (equivalent to 8 bottles of 750ml wine!) liter bottles at The Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover

Every year, Sam and Tina Messina, siblings and co-owners of The Wine ConneXtion, set out in search for rare, large format wines produced by some of the most prestigious wineries-- and each year, their quest is unpredictable. Every large format wine is hand-bottled which makes production limited, and their availability rare. Bottles that do make it to the retail stores are found few and far between, and when they are available, are usually scooped up by wine enthusiasts who want to add them to their prized wine collections.

This year, The Wine ConneXtion searched far and wide to acquire the largest selection of large format wines in New England. Nowhere else can you find such a vast assortment of large format wine, many of which were special ordered directly from the wineries and include older vintage wines that do not exist in the 750ml format today. More than just a bold statement, large format bottles add a unique touch to dinner parties and make an impressive gift for both avid wine collectors and those hard-to-buy-for friends.

Quantities are extremely limited, so stop by The Wine ConneXtion while supplies last. Visit www.wineconnextion.com for an updated list of available bottles. Due to the size and rarity of these bottles they do not ship Large Bottle Formats.

4) Chef and Restaurateur Michael Schlow is excited to announce that Chef Brendan Pelley will join him as the new Chef de Cuisine at his Greek inspired restaurant, Doretta Taverna and Raw Bar. Pelley’s Greek heritage, deep understanding of Mediterranean cuisine, and his innovative style will bring a new added dimension to the popular Back Bay restaurant.

Most recently known for his successful year-long run of Greek pop-up Pelekasis at Wink & Nod, Chef Pelley honed his craft working in some of the top kitchens across greater Boston, including Ken Oringer’s Clio, and Mark Gaier and Clark Frasier’s Summer Winter. Brendan then went on to hold the sous and pastry chef positions at Tryst Bistro, where he refined his knowledge of classic French technique . After Tryst, Pelley went on to perfect his skills of food and wine pairing as chef de cuisine of the Stonehedge Inn & Spa in Tyngsboro prior to taking over at Zebra's Bistro in Medfield.

“I’ve been a fan of Brendan’s cooking for a long time,” says Schlow. “I’m impressed by his knowledge and dedication to the beautiful cuisine of Greece; he’s the perfect match for Doretta and I’m excited to get the opportunity to work with him.”

The culinary synergy between Schlow and Pelley is already evident in new menu items and the two chefs will of course continue to offer the classic Greek dishes that Doretta has already become known for.  Chef Pelley shares Schlow’s excitement on the collaboration, “With Doretta, I've really found the perfect stage for my cooking...a beautiful space and perfect location, a passionate and excited service staff, an amazing kitchen and the support and guidance of a world-renowned chef in Michael.”

Some of the new menu items that Chef Pelley worked with Chef Schlow to introduce to the Doretta menu include new takes on gyros on the lunch menu, an expanded raw bar selection, and items such as: Braised lamb neck kritharaki (orzo) with mizithra cheese and dehydrated kalamata olive breadcrumbs, Harissa roasted carrots with onion ash yogurt, Crispy Brussels sprouts with Krokos (Greek saffron) aioli, and seared scallops with chickpea caper and parsley salad, citrus emulsion and crispy grape leaf.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Alpine Restaurant Group Chef/Owner Joe Cassinelli and the Posto team invite guests to join them for a traditional Feast of the Seven Fishes this Christmas Eve. On Thursday, December 24, from 4pm-8pm, Posto will be celebrate with its 6th Annual Feast of the Seven Fishes. The meal will be available through reservations only and will cost $65 per person with an optional, additional wine pairing for $35 per person.

The prix fixe menu will include:
Antipasti Trio
Crispy Jonah Crab with faggotini pasta and garlic yogurt; Cotuit Bay Oyster with persimmon Agro Dolce; Scallop Crudo with tomato caviar
Second Course
Olive Oil Poached Halibut with confit baby potatoes, roasted garlic, olives, thyme, red flame grapes
Third Course
Roasted Head-On Gulf Shrimp with saffron and squid ink corzetti, clams, and shellfish brodo
Main Course
Wood Oven Roasted Snapper with lobster risotto | truffles | chervil
Dessert
L’Opera Almond Cake with nutella cream and hazelnut ganache or
Vanilla Bean Panna Cotta with blood orange gelée

For reservations, please call 617-625-0600.

2) On Tuesday, December 15, at 7pm, Pier 6 in Charlestown is kicking off its new Coast to Coast wine series which will highlight a different coastal wine region across the globe every month. Patrons will explore the wonderful coastal wines of Spain while enjoying a six course meal prepared by Executive Chef Adriano Silva.

With their immense knowledge and passion for both food and wine, Chef Adriano Silva and a wine ambassador will escort guests through the dinner and educate them on the dishes, strategic pairings and the unique wine regions. The tranquil coasts of Spain have possessed the ability to produce exceptionally diverse and quality wines due in favor to the rich nutrients, natural fibers and land make-up that the coast continues to successfully offer.

The evening will begin with Chef’s amuse featuring fresh Island Creek oysters, tuna carpaccio, chive crème fraîche and paddle fish caviar paired with Campo Viejo Cava. The second course will take a turn with pressed foie gras and duck confit terrine followed by a ‘deconstructed paella,’ saffron & chorizo risotto with Nantucket Bay scallops, grilled shrimp and crispy leeks drizzled in a paprika sauce. In accompanying these two courses, guests will sip on a glass of Verdejo Campo Alegre, a full-bodied crisp white wine from the region of Rueda.

Chef Silva brings the sea to land with his cooked Halibut, which is paired with Bouza de Carril Albariño from Rias Baixas. During the fifth course, an assorted cheese plate will be presented and paired with Marques de Murrieta 'Reserva' Rioja. To conclude the night, patrons will satisfy their sweet craving with a warm dish of caramelized apple bread pudding.

To encourage conversation and enhance the dining experience, the seating that evening will be communal. Reservations are required and dinner will be $60 per person. To make a reservation, please call 617-337-0054.

3) Indulge in a Provençal Christmas Eve at Bistro du Midi while taking in spectacular views overlooking the picturesque Public Garden. Executive Chef Robert Sisca will be serving the full dinner menu, with seasonal highlights including the Pork Belly with lentilles du puy, stracciatella, and pork jus, the Duck Breast with sweet potato, baby artichoke, almonds, and duck jus, and the Monkfish with squash, castelvetrano olives, romaine, and sauce au poivre. Chef Sisca will also be offering French-inspired a la carte additions including Oysters, Venison, Foie Gras, and Lobster specials.

4) Enjoy a taste of Italian holiday tradition at Restaurant dante, il Casale Lexington, and il Casale Belmont, where Chef/Owner Dante de Magistris and brothers Damian and Filippo are serving a special Festa di Pesce per la Vigilia di Natale (Feast of the Seven Fishes) on Christmas Eve. This 10th annual celebration features century-old dishes, each incorporating closely guarded recipes passed down to Dante from his Nonna.

The below four-course menu will be available in addition to the regular menus:
Antipasto
Antipasto di Mare (Shrimp, calamari, clam, eel, octopus, baccalà, smelts)
Primi
Capelli di Angeli “Aglio e Olio” (Angel hair pasta, garlic evoo, anchovy, capers, pine nuts, golden raisins)
Secondi
Spigola (Striped bass baked in salt, mushrooms, leek puree, escarole, walnut stuffing)
2009 Grechetto ‘Grecante,’ Arnoldo Caprai, Umbría
Dolce
Mostaccioli and Zeppole dei Poveri (chocolate dry fruit “cookie cake”, Neapolitan fritters, orange pastry cream)

The prix fixe is $75 per person and will be available on December 24.
Restaurant dante will be open on Christmas Eve from 5:30Ppm– 10pm. For reservations, please call 617-497-4200
il Casale Belmont will be open on Christmas Eve from 5pm-10pm. For reservations please call 617-209-4942
Il Casale Lexington will be open on Christmas Eve from 5pm-10pm. For reservations, please call 781-538-5846

5) Milkshake Mondays at the Rosebud American Kitchen are getting a holiday makeover with new seasonal flavors of their famous bourbon boozy milkshakes. Served every Monday, the Somerville dining scene's fan favorite features a $15 dinner deal of a Rosebud classic cheeseburger paired with your choice of milkshake flavors ranging from classic vanilla to the new Egg Nog (this week), Gingerbread (next week), Drunken Santa (milk and cookies themed for Christmas week), and Peppermint Bark (last week of December).

6) Puritan & Company’s Chef/Owner Will Gilson hosts a prix fixed New Year’s Eve Dinner at his Inman Square locale on Thursday, December 31 followed by New Year’s Day Brunch on Friday, Jan. 1, 2016.

The four-dinner is $75 per person, and wine pairings can be included for an added $35 per person. For all tables seated after 9:30, guests will enjoy a complimentary champagne toast. New Year’s Day Brunch starts at 10:30am and will be the a la carte menu always offered with additional selections on the pastry table and juices available from Beatnik for those who want to kick 2016 off with a healthy start.

The New Year’s Eve prix fixe menu will include:
First
sea trout crudo- fennel, orange, olive, fried amaranth
duck confit and sausage- sweet potato, lentils, pistachio
grilled mushroom salad- potato, marjoram, egg yolk caramel
seared foie gras skillet ($12 supplement)- black pepper gougeres, gooseberries, whipped honey
Second
cauliflower and black truffle soup- thyme oil, parmesan, salsify
salt roasted beets- aged goat cheese, hazelnut, rye cracker
baby greens and chicories- avocado, pinenut, grapefruit
lobster bisque ($10 supplement)- crab cake, coconut, basil
Main
potato and herb gnocchi- brown butter, chestnut, parmesan
seared scallops- parsnip, brussels, pomegranate
roasted duck breast- fennel, spiced carrots, dried fruit jus
40-day dry aged bone-in sirloin steak ($15 supplement)- potato mille fuielle, black trumpets,
Dessert
rum cake- lime curd, crème fraiche, rosemary
indian pudding- sherry, cornmeal, maple
chocolate mousse trifle- hazelnut, brown butter cream, praline

For Reservations, please call 617-615-6195

7) Chef Dan Bazzinotti and the BISq team invite guests to join them this New Year's Eve for a six-course meal and subsequent free-of-charge pig roast party until midnight featuring snacks and a champagne toast. From 5:30pm to 10pm, BISq will be serving a special six-course meal for $75 dollars that will include Nantucket Bay Scallop Ceviche, Sunchoke Panna Cotta, Wellfleet Oyster Fricasse, Corzetti, Braised Veal Breast, and Dessert Charcuterie Board. A la carte items will also be available to order.

Following the prix fixe meal, BISq will be opening its doors at 10:30pm to partygoers for a fun, food-filled pig roast. The pig roast will take place until midnight and will feature a suckling pig roast, late-night snacks, a champagne toast, and music- all free of charge.

For Reservations, please call (617) 714-3693

Tuesday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a special Tuesday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) The Boston Public Market Association (BPMA), the all-volunteer Board that is working towards the creation of a year-round Boston Public Market in downtown Boston, announced hours and programming for the Boston Public Market Association’s 2011 Summer markets.

Boston Public Market Association Summer Market at City Hall Plaza
Location: Boston City Hall Plaza, off of Cambridge Street
Start/End Date: Monday, May 23rd, 2011 – Wednesday, November 23rd, 2011 (No markets on Monday holidays – 5/30, 7/4, 9/5, 10/10)
Days/Hours: Mondays and Wednesdays: 11AM – 6PM (11-5 after November 6th)

Boston Public Market Association Summer Market at Dewey Square 2011
Start/End Date: Thursday, May 26th, 2011 through Tuesday, November 22nd, 2011
Days/Hours: Tuesdays and Thursdays: 11:30 AM - 6:30 PM (11:30AM – 6:00PM after November 6th)

Cookbook Signings at Dewey Square: A chance to meet the region’s favorite local cookbook authors and get seasonal market tips. Authors will include:
--Cathy Walthers, author of Soup & Sides Thursday, June 9th
--Joanne Chang, author of Flour: Spectacular Recipes from Boston’s Flour Bakery & Café Tuesday, July 12th
--Susie Middleton, author of Fresh & Honest Thursday, August 11th

Weekly Market Tours at Dewey Square June-September
Beginning June 21, join instructors from the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts for lunchtime Market tours, providing education and instruction on preparing seasonal recipes with market finds.

EBT Market Tours at Dewey Square and City Hall Plaza
Thursday June 30 at Dewey and July 13 at City Hall
A market tour specifically geared towards the SNAP (formerly known as Food Stamps) customer to kick off the season and familiarize this population with the market, along the savings opportunities available to them with Bounty Bucks. Through this program, recipients may receive up to $20 per day in for fresh local food at our markets for half the price.  Farmers markets can be intimidating; they are often perceived as expensive, there are many choices and the preparation of foods can be daunting. We will attempt to break down the barriers to entry with this event; customers from last year will be asked to speak about their personal experience with the program. We will arrange for attendees to receive $5 in coupons for the market and free tote bags.

Harvest Festivals at Dewey Square
Seasonal festivals that will coincide with and celebrate Massachusetts’s regional harvests. Events include contests, demonstrations, free food, raffles and interactive events.
Dates: Strawberries June 16
Sweet Corn July 21
Tomatoes August 18
Apples September 15
Pumpkins October 18

2) The Spirited Gourmet in Belmont has a couple fascinating wine tastings upcoming.

On Thursday, May 19, from 5-8pm, Winemaker Alberto Aiello Graci of Graci Vineyards, Mt. Etna, Sicily will be there presenting three wines: two reds (Nerello Mascalese) and one white (Carricante). They are biodynamic and  well express the unique microclimate of Mt. Etna, which has some of the highest elevated vineyards in the world.  The wines to be poured include: 2009 Etna Bianco Quota 600, 2009 Etna Rosso and 2008 Etna Rosso Quota 600.

On Saturday, May 21, from 4-7pm, the legendary importer Terry Theise will be on hand pouring through a selection of Austrian and German red and whites from his portfolio.  Wines will be focused on the Pfalz region of Germany, but they will also be sampling Mosel wines and assorted Austrians. Thiese recently published his book, Reading Between the Wines, and it is a compelling and thought provoking book and you can read my previous comments on it. This should be a great event and I highly recommend that all wine lovers check it out.

3) In celebration of National Doughnut Day, Smolak Farms in North Andover will be holding their second annual, weekend-long Doughnut Day Festival from Friday, June 3rd, through Sunday, June 5th. In honor of the holiday’s founders, Smolak Farms will be donating a portion of the festivals proceeds to The Salvation Army.

"National Doughnut Day was officially established in 1938 by the Chicago Salvation Army to raise much-needed funds post depression, and to honor the work of World War I Salvation Army volunteers. During World War I, The Salvation Army set up small provision stations for U.S. serviceman that included writing supplies, sewing materials, hot coffee and yes, doughnuts to bring comfort to the soldiers. The doughnuts were a huge hit with the serviceman and became an important part of providing comfort and morale for soldiers."

To kick off the celebration on Friday, June 3rd, the farm will be offering a free ½ dozen doughnuts with the purchase of a dozen of their famous cider doughnuts, available in plain, sugared and cinnamon sugar. All veterans a.k.a. “doughboys,” will receive 1 free doughnut!

All weekend long, from Friday, June 3rd to Sunday, June 5th, families will have a chance to get creative at Smolak Farms’ free doughnut decorating stand located in the Greenhouse. From 9am-1pm guests will be able to dunk their own doughnuts into all sorts of yummy toppings. Free with the purchase of a doughnut. Smolak Farm’s is offering free hayrides from 9am-1pm, all weekend long!

Who doesn't love cider donuts? They are certainly one of my favorite things so I will likely be there for the Donut Festival.

Coturri Winery & Texas Wine

Which state is the fifth largest producer of wine in the U.S.?  Texas, which has about 200 commercial wineries and produces over 2.3 million gallons of wine.  Yet, until very recently, I had never seen a Texas wine available in Massachusetts.  Besides California, Oregon and Washington, that is a common problem with the other U.S. states, that their wines are not widely available across the country. 

When I recently saw several Texas wines available at The Spirited Gourmet in Belmont, I was intrigued but they were pricey, $50-$55 a bottle. Fortunately, a couple of the wines were going to be tasted a couple weeks later, with the wine maker, Tony Coturri. I was already a fan of Coturri Winery, a California winery located in Glen Ellen, Sonoma County, so I was thus even more excited to try the wines. I usually find Coturri wines to be unique, delicious and compelling.

Coturri Winery produces what they consider to be "natural wines," that every ingredient in their wine is organic. Their website states: "Coturri Winery never uses grapes that have been treated with pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides. The Coturri Winery Estate Vineyards are certified by the CCOF. No SO2-no inoculation with sulfites, yeast cultures, no use of concentrates to boost sweetness, no added water, acids, or other manipulation of the wine."  Tony is very passionate about natural wines and has now carried that passion to Texas. 

Tony is very good friends with Lewis Dickson, a Texas lawyer and wine enthusiast, and back in 2001 they produced their first batch of Texas wine together. In 2004, they then established the La Cruz de Comal winery in the Texas Hill Country, in Central Texas. Their intent is to produce natural wines, indicative of the terroir of the region.  Tony told me that too many Texas winemakers follow fads, rather than trying to grow what grows best in the Texas soil.  The location of Tony's vineyard is not an easy area for vineyards, and they have had two crop failures in the past ten years.  But, Tony feels they can make some excellent wine.

The winery uses both vitis vinifera, such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as vitis labrusca, such as Norton and Black Spanish (also known as Lenoir and Jacquez).  For example, they use Black Spanish, which they consider a very good grape for the region, in a red still wine, a rose, and a dessert wine.  The winery only produces a total of about 350 cases of wine, so they are a very small operation.

At the tasting, we went through a number of Coturri wines from California, including the following:

•2006 Coturri Sonoma County Chardonnay
•NV Coturri Sandocino
•2005 Coturri Charbono 'Testa Vineyards'
•2004 Coturri Pinot Noir 'Jewell Vineyard'
•2003 Coturri Zinfandel 'Bruschera Vineyards'
•2005 Cotes de Cailloux Chateau d'O
•1997 Coturri Assemblage

Though I enjoyed all of the wines, my top two favorites were the NV Coturri Sandocino ($21.99) and the 1997 Coturri Assemblage ($29.99).  1997 was an excellent vintage and Tony is particularly proud of the Assemblage, a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Some people feel that a wine without added sulfites cannot age well, but this Assemblage is 13 years old and is still going strong.  It reminded me of an older Bordeaux, and it seems as if it will continue to age well for a number of years. And at this price, it is an excellent value and highly recommended.

We had the opportunity to taste two of the Texas wines, including the 2004 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo" ($49.99) and the 2005 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo" ($54.99). "Cohete Rojo" is Spanish for "Red Rocket," in a reference to fireworks.

Only about 96 cases were produced of the 2004 Cohete Rojo, which is blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tannat and Alicante Bouchet.  Initially, this wine had an aroma of seawater, almost a lowtide smell. But, after a bit of aeration, that smell vanished and there was more of an earthy smell, reminding me of some Rhone wines.  On the palate, I found an intriguing melange of tastes, more black fruits but with hints of red cherry.  There was some minerality, earthiness, and mild herbal flavors. Good acidity, tannins were moderate, and the finish was lengthy and pleasing. It had a very unique taste, and seemed more European in style than California.  A strongly recommended wine, though the price might keep some away. 

The 2005 Cohete Rojo is a different blend, with 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest includes Norton, Black Spanish, Syrah, Tannat and Viognier. This wine reminded me more of a California wine, a bigger style with more prominent black fruit flavors. But, it did not cross the line into being a fruit bomb, the fruit flavors being restrained though prominent. There were also some underlying notes of spice and herbs.  Good acidity and a lengthy finish. I enjoyed this wine too, though not as much as the 2004 as I found the 2004 to have a more intriguing and complex taste.

Based on these two examples, I see a potential for Texas wines, and I am interested in tasting more of them in the future, though it won't be easy to find them locally.  Plus, it is very good to see natural wines being produced in places you might least expect them.  Tony Coturri has another winner on his hands and kudos go to him.

Have you had any Texas wines?  If so, what were your thoughts?

Spirited Gourmet Grand Tasting

The fall is the season for Grand Tastings at many wine stores, and they are the perfect opportunity for wine lovers to get the chance to taste a diverse selection of wines from all over the world.  A couple weeks ago, I stopped by the Fall Grand Wine Tasting at The Spirited Gourmet in Belmont.  There were about sixty wines available for tasting, and there was a 20% discount on all of the wines from the tasting. I needed to stock up a bit on some everyday wines so this was a good opportunity to do so, as well as to taste some new wines.

I was happy to see two sakes at the tasting, including the Yoshinogawa Gensen Karakuchi and Bunraku Nihonjin No Wasuremeno Yamahai Junmai (one of my favorites).  But I was disappointed that both distributors provided me inaccurate information about sake. I did not correct them, but it indicates how consumers may be getting erroneous information. At least people had the chance to taste the sake, and hopefully some of them enjoyed it enough to buy some.

As for some of the wines that stood out to me:

2007 Gentilini Aspro Classic ($17.99): This is a Greek white wine made from a blend of Robola, Sauvignon Blanc and Tsaoussi.  An intriguing flavor with tastes of melon, pear, herbs and a touch of ginger. Crisp, clean and tasty.

2006 Massaya Silver Select ($19.99): A red wine from Lebanon, it is a blend of 40% Cinsault, 30% Grenache, 15% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 15% Mourvedre. Complex, deep red fruit flavors, lengthy finish, moderate tannins, very compelling.

2008 Cedre Heritage Malbec, Cahors ($13.99):  A French Malbec with more black fruit flavors as well as nice earthy tones.  Very different from many South American Malbecs, and the type of wine which appeals to me. A good value wine.

2009 Ferreira Esteva, Douro ($11.99): Another good value Portuguese wine, with a red fruit aroma, plenty of fruit on the palate, along with a mild earthy taste. 

NV Marsuret Prosecco ($13.99): An easy-drinking sparkling wine, with pleasant fruit and a clean finish.  A good value bubbly which is sure to appeal to many people.

2007 Cianfagna Tintilia del Molise ($39.99): The Tintilia grape is a rare grape native to the Molise region of Italy. It produces dark red wines, and this wine had some ripe plum and blackberry flavors with plenty of dusty spice.  An interesting wine though pricey, and something I would prefer to taste again some time with food.  I think it would show even better with a hearty dish.

Cocchi American Aperitivo ($21.99):  This intriguing apertif uses a base of Moscato di Asti and is then infused with herbs, fruit and spices, including cinchona, gentian and citrus. It had a nice flavor, both sweet and herbal, reminding me some of the new artisan Vermouths now on the market, though with its own unique taste.  Would be a good mix for cocktails too.

2007 Santome Moro 41 ($12.99):  An Italian red blend of Cabernet Franc, Merlot and Raboso Piave. Raboso is an indigenous grape, new to me, so this wine intrigued me. But, the Cabernet Franc was strong, giving the wine a vegetal taste which I disliked.

2006 Wellington Cabernet Sauvignon ($24.99):  In Massachusetts, The Spirited Gourmet exclusively carries Wellington Vineyards wines and I got to taste their Merlot, Zinfandel and Cabernet Sauvignon.  Though I enjoyed all three, the Cabernet was my favorite.  It was smooth, with low tannins, deep fruit flavors and a hint of herbs. An excellent Cabernet at this price point.

2008 Villemade Cour-Cheverny ($21.99): Made from the Romorantin grape, a local white grape, the wine had a strong lemon flavor with a minerally backbone.

Savinos Grill: Midsummer Night’s Wine Dinner

“Lord what fools these mortals be!” cried Puck at the young Athenians’ silly behavior over love, in Act 3, scene one, line 115 in William Shakespeare’s Midsummer Night’s Dream. Instead of young Athenian men and women being wholly absorbed in their emotions, wine lovers and culinary aficionados will be absorbed in tasting and consuming at Savinos Grill Midsummer Night’s Wine Dinner on Tuesday, July 20th, at 6:30pm.

Act I, Scene 1 opens will a lovely reception of Grilled Shrimp with basil oil, assorted crostini, paired with Badia A Coltibuono “Trappoline” – a Chardonnay/Sauvignon Blanc). The next scenes follow as played out below:

Scene 2 The Appetizer
Melon and Hard Ricotta Napoleon with micro greens drizzled with balsamic glaze
Paired with Avignonesi Rosso di Montepulciano

Scene 3 The Entree
Grilled Hanger Steak
Spinach Pasta Pie with Gorgonzola
Roasted Mushrooms, Cippolini in a red wine reduction

or
Grilled Swordfish over Israeli Cous Cous with beet puree and leeks
Sautéed Greens, Baby Zucchini and Baby Carrots in Tarragon Oil
Paired with Badia A Coltibuono “Estate” Chianti Classico

Scene 4 Dessert
Fresh Blueberry Tart, Crème Anglaise
Served with Homemade Lemoncello

Portion of the tickets will benefit The Belmont Special Education Advisory Council. Tickets are $60 per person (tax/gratuity not included). Reservations highly recommended. Please call Savinos Grill at 617-484-3499. Enjoy a midsummer night in July of exceptional wines paired with delicious food, where the courses are played out with excitement, fun and wit!