2010: Top Wines Over $50

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wine List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50.  This list only has six entries as there were not enough worthy wines to complete ten entries. Though, you will find that two of the entries are actually wine categories, encompassing numerous wines, so the total amount of wines covered by this list is far more than ten. 

This list includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.  I highly recommend all of these wines, and believe many wine lovers will also enjoy these wines.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and all are definitely worth your consideration. These are not every day wines, but those worth a splurge, those for special celebrations. These are exceptional wines for those wine lovers who want to amaze their palates. Each of the choices is linked to my more detailed prior review. Please also note that the actual price of the wine may vary in your area.

1. 2008 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz Reserve, Austria ($75-$80)
If you are familiar with Grüner, you are probably most familiar with its inexpensive versions, often costing less than $25. You might even think there are not any high-end bottlings of this grape. But that is definitely not the case, and you can find Grüner at all price points. This wine was a stunner, a superb melange of alluring aromas and tastes. It is a "wow" wine and will change your understanding of Grüner, leading you to seek out their superior bottlings.

2. 2007 McGregor Vineyard Black Russian Red, Finger Lakes, NY ($54.99)
I love trying wines produced from obscure grapes as you never know what wonders you might find.  This winery grows a few unusual grapes, including Sereksiya Charni, Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, and Sereksiya Rose. This wine uses two of those grapes, the result reminding me of an exotic Cabernet Sauvignon.  It will age very well, and I was glad to see it only had an alcohol content of 12.5%.  Once again, the Finger Lakes proves it is not just about white wines.

3. Aged Sherry, Spain ($50+)
Sherry is very underappreciated.  But if a wine lover were to taste a VOS (20 year old), VORS (30 year old) or Vintage sherry, they would change their tune.  These are fascinating wines, of great complexity, intense flavors, enticing aromas and much more. While in the Jerez region, I tasted numerous aged sherries, nearly all which thoroughly impressed me, and I bought a number of them to savor at home. These are world-class wines, as good as anything else find in the world. Out of all the recommendations on this list, this gets my highest regard and I cannot recommend them enough.

4. 1999 Jacques Puffeney Vin Jaune, France ($95)
Vin jaune is produced by flor which is similar, though not the same, as that used in making sherry.  Thus, vin jaune can sometimes remind you of sherry. This wine did remind me of manzanilla, its briny apple nature, but it was more complex than the usual manzanilla. There was a blend of interesting but subtle flavors, including herbal notes, and the finish lingered and lingered in my mouth.  The wines of Jura are also underappreciated but well worthy of your consideration.

5. 2004 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo", Texas ($50)
This is the first wine I have ever tasted that was produced in Texas, and it showed me the potential of this mighty state to produce excellent wine.  It is a natural wine, made with the input of the famed Tony Coturri, and is more European in style than Californian.  A red blend, it brings together fruit, herbs, minerality, earthiness, and more into a compelling wine. This wine is not just a good Texas wine, but is a good wine for any region.

6. Madeira, Portugal ($50+)
This is another underappreciated category of wine, one which should appeal to many wine lovers if they gave it a chance.  Madeira can be either dry or sweet, and ages extremely well. I generally prefer the dry versions, though I understand the allure of the sweet ones too. Some reminded me of sherries, while others had their own unique tastes. Madeira can be quite pricey, but often the most expensive are also the oldest and most rare.  Where else can you find a 100 year old wine that still rocks?

No one region dominated this list, with wines from New York, Texas, France, Spain, Portugal and Austria.  Though California dominated the Top Ten Over $15 list, they are absent from this list. This list has more unusual wines, not the norm praised by many others.  There are no high-end Cabernets here, or top end Pinots. Instead, the list is a path to exploration, to tasting some of the underappreciated, but very compelling, wines that are available.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

Coturri Winery & Texas Wine

Which state is the fifth largest producer of wine in the U.S.?  Texas, which has about 200 commercial wineries and produces over 2.3 million gallons of wine.  Yet, until very recently, I had never seen a Texas wine available in Massachusetts.  Besides California, Oregon and Washington, that is a common problem with the other U.S. states, that their wines are not widely available across the country. 

When I recently saw several Texas wines available at The Spirited Gourmet in Belmont, I was intrigued but they were pricey, $50-$55 a bottle. Fortunately, a couple of the wines were going to be tasted a couple weeks later, with the wine maker, Tony Coturri. I was already a fan of Coturri Winery, a California winery located in Glen Ellen, Sonoma County, so I was thus even more excited to try the wines. I usually find Coturri wines to be unique, delicious and compelling.

Coturri Winery produces what they consider to be "natural wines," that every ingredient in their wine is organic. Their website states: "Coturri Winery never uses grapes that have been treated with pesticides, fungicides, or herbicides. The Coturri Winery Estate Vineyards are certified by the CCOF. No SO2-no inoculation with sulfites, yeast cultures, no use of concentrates to boost sweetness, no added water, acids, or other manipulation of the wine."  Tony is very passionate about natural wines and has now carried that passion to Texas. 

Tony is very good friends with Lewis Dickson, a Texas lawyer and wine enthusiast, and back in 2001 they produced their first batch of Texas wine together. In 2004, they then established the La Cruz de Comal winery in the Texas Hill Country, in Central Texas. Their intent is to produce natural wines, indicative of the terroir of the region.  Tony told me that too many Texas winemakers follow fads, rather than trying to grow what grows best in the Texas soil.  The location of Tony's vineyard is not an easy area for vineyards, and they have had two crop failures in the past ten years.  But, Tony feels they can make some excellent wine.

The winery uses both vitis vinifera, such as Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon, as well as vitis labrusca, such as Norton and Black Spanish (also known as Lenoir and Jacquez).  For example, they use Black Spanish, which they consider a very good grape for the region, in a red still wine, a rose, and a dessert wine.  The winery only produces a total of about 350 cases of wine, so they are a very small operation.

At the tasting, we went through a number of Coturri wines from California, including the following:

•2006 Coturri Sonoma County Chardonnay
•NV Coturri Sandocino
•2005 Coturri Charbono 'Testa Vineyards'
•2004 Coturri Pinot Noir 'Jewell Vineyard'
•2003 Coturri Zinfandel 'Bruschera Vineyards'
•2005 Cotes de Cailloux Chateau d'O
•1997 Coturri Assemblage

Though I enjoyed all of the wines, my top two favorites were the NV Coturri Sandocino ($21.99) and the 1997 Coturri Assemblage ($29.99).  1997 was an excellent vintage and Tony is particularly proud of the Assemblage, a 50/50 blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot. Some people feel that a wine without added sulfites cannot age well, but this Assemblage is 13 years old and is still going strong.  It reminded me of an older Bordeaux, and it seems as if it will continue to age well for a number of years. And at this price, it is an excellent value and highly recommended.

We had the opportunity to taste two of the Texas wines, including the 2004 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo" ($49.99) and the 2005 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo" ($54.99). "Cohete Rojo" is Spanish for "Red Rocket," in a reference to fireworks.

Only about 96 cases were produced of the 2004 Cohete Rojo, which is blend of Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, Syrah, Tannat and Alicante Bouchet.  Initially, this wine had an aroma of seawater, almost a lowtide smell. But, after a bit of aeration, that smell vanished and there was more of an earthy smell, reminding me of some Rhone wines.  On the palate, I found an intriguing melange of tastes, more black fruits but with hints of red cherry.  There was some minerality, earthiness, and mild herbal flavors. Good acidity, tannins were moderate, and the finish was lengthy and pleasing. It had a very unique taste, and seemed more European in style than California.  A strongly recommended wine, though the price might keep some away. 

The 2005 Cohete Rojo is a different blend, with 65% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon and the rest includes Norton, Black Spanish, Syrah, Tannat and Viognier. This wine reminded me more of a California wine, a bigger style with more prominent black fruit flavors. But, it did not cross the line into being a fruit bomb, the fruit flavors being restrained though prominent. There were also some underlying notes of spice and herbs.  Good acidity and a lengthy finish. I enjoyed this wine too, though not as much as the 2004 as I found the 2004 to have a more intriguing and complex taste.

Based on these two examples, I see a potential for Texas wines, and I am interested in tasting more of them in the future, though it won't be easy to find them locally.  Plus, it is very good to see natural wines being produced in places you might least expect them.  Tony Coturri has another winner on his hands and kudos go to him.

Have you had any Texas wines?  If so, what were your thoughts?

Wednesday Sips & Nibbles

I am here with a special Wednesday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular Thursday column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) As part of a series of celebratory events marking their 10-year anniversary, the Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro is offering “A Decade of Decadence” a 10-day journey featuring special dishes and drinks marking the culinary highlights from the past decade. The journey begins Saturday, November 27 and continues until Tuesday, December 7, pausing only on December 2nd (their anniversary date) for a special champagne dinner.  Each night’s special will be offered in addition to the regular menu and reservations are recommended by calling 617-723-7575.

10 Years of Culinary Review 2001-2010

2001: Saturday, November 27th
An ode to the great Thomas Keller- featuring "Coffee and Donuts" $9

2002: Sunday, November 28th
Return to comfort foods- Chicken Pot Pie $20

2003: Monday November 29th
"Atkins Friendly" 14 oz Wolfe's Neck Farm Strip Steak with Roasted Garlic Creamed Spinach $33

2004: Tuesday, November 30th
The Molten Chocolate Cake $9

2005: Wednesday, December 1st
A celebration in "Fusion" Ahi Tuna Tartare with avocado, and soy sesame vinaigrette $14

(*Please note: Thursday, December 2nd will feature a four-course champagne dinner to commemorate the anniversary date)

2006: Friday, December 3rd
A BHHB take on Molecular gastronomy- Long Island Duck Breast, cooked sous vide, with Roasted Chestnuts, Baby Turnips, and Apple Foam $29

2007: Saturday, December 4th
A Tasting of Desserts in Miniature $9

2008: Sunday, December 5th
Crispy Confit of Vermont Pork belly with Lentil Ragout and Cider Sauce $12

2009: Monday, December 6th
Maine Lobster Mac and Cheese $28

2010: Tuesday, December 7th
All things local and cured- Country Terrine of Vermont Rabbit with House Pickled Vegetables $14

Pair your culinary journey with the "appropriate" wine & spirits of the year.  All selected wines & cocktails are only $10.

2001: Cosmopolitan- “Sex and the City,” Second Season Episode “The Chicken Dance”
2002: Shiraz
2003: Merlot - the year before it got trashed in "Sideways"
2004: Pinot Noir- “Sideways” became a hit in theaters
2005: Mojito
2006: Pomegranate Martini- POM Wonderful Pomegranate Juice
2007: Malbec
2008: Fantasy Infusion
2009: St. Germain
2010: Old Fashion/Manhattan

2) Want something new for the holidays?  The Ashmont Grill, located in Dorchester, offers a special cocktail recipe for the holidays: Black Cherry Manhattan. This recipe will make enough for a party, which makes it very appropriate for the holiday season.

Ingredients:1 cup dried black cherries
¼ cup whole black peppercorns
one bottle bourbon, any brand

Directions:
Stir ingredients together in a glass jar with a cover. 
Allow to rest in a cool, dark place for 5-7 days.
Drain solids from liquid using cheesecloth or a coffee filter.
Serve in a rocks glass over chipped ice.
If desired, garnish with a “lollipop” made of a dried cherry dipped in dark chocolate.

3) Black Friday and Cyber Monday are not just for retail shops.  Some Boston’s restaurants are joining in, offering their own special deals. 

Here are some examples of what local venues are offering:

Towne Stove and Spirits, Black Friday:
Towne Stove and Spirits will treat you to a signature complimentary Wood Grilled Margherita Pizza with purchase of entrée when you present a receipt in excess of $50 from The Shops at Prudential Center. Towne Stove and Spirits is also the only destination in the city to offer valet services during lunch service.

Haru Sushi, Black Friday & Cyber Monday:
From midnight through 11:59pm on Black Friday and Cyber Monday, Haru Sushi will treat gift-givers to a complimentary gift card of their own. For every $50 purchased in Haru gift cards (available in-store or online at www.harusushi.com), Haru will reward you with an additional $10 gift card. ‘Tis the season of giving, and everyone deserves something this holiday season.

BOKX 109 American Prime, Cyber Monday:
From midnight through 11:59pm on November 29th, BOKX 109 American Prime in Hotel Indigo will be giving your gift cards a raise. For every $100 spent, BOKX 109 will bump the denomination up to $120.

4)  Tony Coturri of Coturri Winery is coming to town.  Coturri Winery, located in Glen Ellen, California, is very well known for being a model for organic wines. I am a fan of his wines and was very intrigued to learn that he is now also working to produce some wines in Texas.  So, on Saturday, November 27, from 4pm-7pm, I will be at The Spirited Gourmet in Belmontto meet Tony and taste a selection of his wines, including two from Texas. I have never had a Texas wine so this should be interesting, especially if Tonyis involved.  Why not come to Belmont and join me this Saturday.
List of wines for the tasting:

•2006 Coturri Sonoma County Chardonnay
•NV Coturri Sandocino
•2005 Coturri Charbono 'Testa Vineyards'
•2004 Coturri Pinot Noir 'Jewell Vineyard'
•2003 Coturri Zinfandel 'Bruschera Vineyards'
•2005 Cotes de Cailloux Chateau d'O
•2004 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo" - Texas
•2005 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo" - Texas
•1997 Coturri Assemblage