Showing posts with label Wine news. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Wine news. Show all posts

Friday, November 2, 2012

The Drops of God: New World

The epic and fascinating vinous battle between Shizuku Kanzaki and Issei Tomine continues. At stake is a vast wine collection valued at more than $20 million dollars. Who shall emerge victorious in this great contest? How will this competition change the two contestants?

I previously raved about the prior volumes of The Drops of God and have strongly encouraged all wine lovers to check out this compelling series. The fifth volume has recently been released. The Drops of God: New World ($14.95) is a trade paperback, about the size of a usual paperback manga, of 366 pages. Like a traditional manga, the book is read from back to front, which is a minor adjustment if you are not a regular manga reader and used to this format. This volume contains 18 issues of the original manga.

The series centers on an intriguing wine contest where the two competitors must identify 12 "Apostle" wines and one final wine, "The Drops of God." In Japan, the Drops of God manga is hugely popular and the series continues to be published. So far, 8 Apostles have been identified though in the first four English translations, only the first two have been made known. This fifth volume jumps ahead in the timeline, depicting the efforts to identify the seventh Apostle wine.

This disruption to the chronology of story line can be a bit jarring. The rationale behind it though was to publish a volume that would be more appealing to American readers by showcasing a contest which involved New World wines, including many California ones. By setting some of the story in California, it was hoped the book would find a greater American audience. Let us hope that turns out to be the case.

One of the new characters presented in this volume is Issei's mother, who also is a wine expert and seems to be even more knowledgeable than Issei. She is present when the description of the Seventh Apostle is read, and it is thought that her presence might actually be a distraction to Issei. Over the course of 11 pages, the Seventh Apostle is described, in words and pictures, including a lion and Sagrada Familia (Gaudi's unfinished church in Barcelona). The competitors have only three weeks to identify the wine and as in the other volumes, there are always various obstacles on the path to the conclusion of the primary contest.

New World wines take center stage in this contest and there is some initial discussion as to a definition of that term. In the end, they tend to feel that New World refers to those regions that lack a wine making tradition, though it might be more accurate to state they have a much shorter wine making tradition than other countries like France and Italy. More differences are presented throughout the book, such as stating that New World wines are "enjoyable even before they peak." There is no need to wait until their mature before they can be savored. Maybe the greatest, and potentially most controversial, difference presented is that New World wines are more the products of man rather than terroir.

It is pointed out that New World wines rely more on "Man over the blessing of Heaven or Earth" and emphasize "the miracle of human effort, of manpower and the homage to life embodied therein."  To Issei, he feels that for many regions in the New World, the terroir is not yet distinct so the nature of the wines change dependent on who produces it. He later states that, "Napa's wines require a lot of hands-on skill that obscures characteristics of the terroir..." And while he searches for a wine that is a "masterpiece of manpower," he is told that "excellent Napa wines are all 'works' birthed in such a way."

What are your thoughts on that issue? Are California wines more a product of the wine maker than terroir? Does that wine making obscure terroir?

The two contestants take different paths on their journeys to select the Seventh Apostle. Issei, taking his mother with him, decides to start his search in Napa Valley upon the Napa Valley Wine Train. On the train, they taste a number of famous California wines such as the 2007 Clos Pegase Mitsuko's Vineyard Chardonnay, 2000 Etude Pinot Noir, 2004 Stag's Leap Cask 23, 2004 Opus One, and 2000 Caymus Vineyards Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon. To Issei, he feels that the Oakville AVA is probably the most ideal winemaking region in California. His exploration of California vineyards eventually takes an involuntary detour, when he is threatened by criminals who want Issei to help them perpetuate a fraud during a wine auction.

Later, as has apparently become his trademark, Issei takes an unorthodox route to discerning the Apostle, this time watching a film, about the wines of Napa Valley, for ten days straight. In the end, he selects a California wine as his guess for the identity of the Seventh Apostle.

On the other hand, Shizuku begins his search by tasting a variety of New World wines, from regions such as New Zealand, South Africa, Australia, and Argentina. Based on his thoughts about the tastings, he decides to travel to Australia to seek the Apostle. Once there, he runs into his own distraction, a man who hates the Japanese because he feels they are destroying Australia's forests. There is a diversion, a discussion on how much of the lumber, from the limited forest land of Australia, is sent to Japan for paper products. Once past this obstacle, Shizuku learns that his father had visited Australia and he learn a bit more about him. In the end, he selects an Australian wine as his choice for the identity of the Seventh Apostle.

Once again, this volume continues to review wines in more unique ways, describing the feelings, images and memories the wines invoke. Anyone who writes wine reviews, like wine bloggers, should pay special attention to how this is done, how they use evocative imagery and language to go beyond a mere recitation of flavors and smell. A 1983 Leoville-Las Cases is described as "chivalrous, elegant, almost like a falcon wheeling through the open skies."  In comparison, the 1994 Dominus is also described as a falcon, except this time it is "a realist painting" and "a work of art." The 2000 Caymus Vineyards Special Selection Cabernet Sauvignon is compared to Vermeer's "The Milkmaid," being "Dignified, yet layered with the familiarity of workaday life." The 1999 Beringer Vineyards Private Reserve Cabernet Sauvignon is described as a "stately buffalo." A 2001 Napier Red Medallion, from South Africa, is described as "an elegant, all-female choir signing a cappella."

In addition, the manga presents some thought provoking quotes, comments to ponder over, such as:
--"We all enjoy wine in unique ways."
--"I feel like I'm finally remembering that wine is meant to be shared and discussed like this."
--"An excellent wine can cross vast distances or turn back time and show you visions."
--"To this vintner, grapes are like paints to a painter or clay to a potter."

This fifth volume is a worthy successor to the previous four, presenting a story that is compelling, educational, thought provoking and fun. Wine lovers of all knowledge levels will enjoy this series. It might help you think of wine in new and different ways. Unfortunately, the publisher may not issue any further volumes in English because it has not sold well enough. Plenty of people purchased the first volume, but far less people bought subsequent volumes. So if we hope to read the entire series in English, we need to encourage more people to buy and read the entire series. Keep Drops of God alive!

Friday, April 6, 2012

The Drops of God: Volume 3-The First Apostle

The first score in the epic vinous battle between Shizuku Kanzaki and Issei Tomine finally occurs. Who successfully determined the identity of the First Apostle, taking an initial lead in the competition to win a vast wine collection valued at more than $20 million dollars?

I previously raved about the first two volumes of The Drops of God and you can read my prior reviews of The Drops of God: Volume 1 and The Drops of God: Volume 2. I was excited to read Volume 3, which was recently published, knowing that one of the Apostle wines would be finally identified. At the heart of the grand wine contest, the two competitors, Shizuku and Issei, must identify 12 Apostles and one final wine, The Drops of God. In Japan, the Drops of God manga continues to be published and 8 Apostles have already been identified. The English translations need to catch up, though that is still going to take several years.

The Drops of God, Volume 3 ($14.95) is a trade paperback, about the size of a usual paperback manga, of 402 pages, which is about 8 pages less than the second volume. Like a traditional manga, the book is read from back to front, which is a minor adjustment if you are not a regular manga reader and used to this format. It contains 20 issues of the original manga, the same as the second volume. The first three volumes basically cover the first year of issues of the Japanese weekly manga.

This volume picks up where the last volume ended, as the two contestants, Shizuku and Issei, try to identify the first Apostle wine. The Apostle was described with a scene of nature, including woods, a spring, and butterflies, an intriguing way to describe a wine. The competitors had only three weeks to identify the wine and as in the other volumes, there are always various detours on the path to the conclusion of the primary contest.

Shizuku encounters an artist who has created a painting that seems to closely resemble the description of the first Apostle, and which was inspired by a specific wine. But, the problem is that the artist has amnesia and cannot remember the name of the wine. Shizuku wants to help her regain her memory, for her own sake, but also so she can potentially help him identify the Apostle. To do so, he has the artist drink a number of different wines, hoping one will spark a flood of memories. While Shizuku tastes various wines with the artist, Issei opts for a very different road to identifying the Apostle. He visits a temple and undergoes a tasting of three glasses of spring water. How will that help him decide on the Apostle?

Burgundy takes center stage through much of this volume, and there is educational information about some regions and chateaus. Shizuku eventually makes his own decision as to which wine is the first Apostle. Interestingly, he does not taste the wine he believes to be correct, rather choosing to rely on his own conviction. When Issei hears about that, he too decides not to taste the wine that he has chosen as the Apostle. For one of them, that will turn out to be a significant mistake. They finally confront each other, reveal their selections and the winner is determined, though I won't spoil that decision.

Once again, this volume continues to "review" wines in more unique ways, describing the feelings, images and memories the wines invoke. One Burgundy is compared to "a marble statue, meticulously chiseled with a sharply honed blade."  Two other Burgundies, differing only by their vintage, are described in contrast, one as a "perfect movie" and the other as a "well-crafted mystery novel." A white Bordeaux is described as like a "bride's beautiful, diaphanous white veil."  Such evocative imagery, this provides such a fuller picture instead of a dry recitation of fruit and floral flavors and smells.

The manga also presents some thought provoking quotes, comments to ponder over, such as:
--"Just as the finest wines are only born from the harmony of Heaven, Earth, and Man."
--"Some people are saved by wine, while others are led astray because of it."
--"With wine, you taste and think for yourself."
--"A wine's appeal and its price are different things."
--"You're a woman of business. I'm just a drunkard. I have no interest in some critic's scores."
--".., wine is no mere alcohol but a masterwork as of literature or art."

An important lesson from this volume centers on vintages, and their impact on wine. There are at least a couple times when characters taste the same wines, but of different vintages, and the lessons learned make a significant difference in the manga. They should also serve as a thought experiment for the reader. One of the main lessons is that wine from all vintages should be cherished and not just the great vintages. "Great vintages are all well and good, but harsh vintages are wines too."

In fact, the book seems to take a position that the lesser vintages may actually possess an advantage over great ones. "The chosen few grapes that survive such harsh years have a vitality hidden deep within that the grapes of great vintages lack." Though such a wine may not be "perfect" it still possesses special characteristics. "A mediocre vintage can still be augmented by an 'individuality' unique to humans and produce a wine that may be imperfect but charming, like people themselves." Do you tend to neglect lesser vintages? Do you feel only great vintages make worthy wines?

Once again, this volume of The Drops of God addresses the matter of wine scores, pushing the idea that scores shouldn't matter much and that wine lovers should first depend on their own tastes. It is stated that Yutaka Kanzaki, the famed wine critic whose will is at the center of the plot, never gave points to wine. "He always used his superb imagination to bring wines to life in fine descriptions." This is something for wine critics to carefully consider.

After the first Apostle contest is decided, we move onto another diversionary test. Shizuku's company gets a huge order for wine, to stock a chain of supermarkets. But, the customer, Takasugi, only wants wine from the top five chateaux of Bordeaux, their top rivals, and DRC for Burgundy. The wines will include all vintages from 1970 to most recent. But Shizuku and his co-worker Miyabi, who is a former school mate of Takasugi, think he would be better served by choosing other wines. So they propose a blind taste test to Takasugi, pitting wines of their wine choices against the top Bordeaux and DRC. Takasugi consents but if he wins, then Miyabi must come to work for him.

Shizuku then undergoes a tasting of the five First Growths, all from 2002, and the manga goes into an explanation of these wines, including unique wine "reviews" from Shizuku. After this tasting though, Shizuku is feeling very insecure about the upcoming contest so he visits his rival, Issei, seeking his advice. This is certainly an intriguing twist. Issei will only help him if Shizuku can pass a test, comparing a 1970 and 1978 Chateau Margaux and explaining the reason for the difference between the two wines.

Once again, this volume impressed me and I continue to highly recommend the entire series to all wine lovers. It is a compelling and fun story, while also educating people about wine. Some wine lovers might consider a portion of the information to be very basic, but they will still find value in the books, various aspects that will make them think about wine in different ways. At different points during this volume, I had to put the book down while I thought about some idea I had found. Bring on the next volume!

You can look forward to Volume 4 being published on June 12 and Volume 5 on September 11. I suspect they might also publish Volume 6 in December.

Friday, February 3, 2012

The Drops of God: Volume 2

Could you identify a wine based on a painting that showed a nature scene? That is the dilemma that faces our protagonist, Shizuku Kanzaki. At stake, a wine collection worth over $20 million dollars.

After my joy at the release of an English translation of The Drops of God: Volume 1, I was excited to pick up Volume 2, hoping that it was a worthy successor. The Drops of God: Volume 2 ($14.95) is a trade paperback, about the size of a usual paperback manga, of 410 pages, about 20 pages less than the first volume. Like a traditional manga, the book is read from back to front, which is a minor adjustment if you are not a regular manga reader and used to this format. It contains 20 issues of the original manga, 2 more than the first volume.

This volume picks up where the first ended, continuing the build up to a contest pitting three French wines against three Italian wines. The three wines must be selected in 1000, 2000 and 3000 yen ranges (roughly equivalent to $10, $20 and $30). But, before that contest occurs, there are a couple detours, additional contests for Shizuku, which challenge his palate and wine knowledge. And through this path, the reader will come to learn more about wine as well.

In the first detour, Shizuku is hired by a restaurant to assist with the wine pairing for a special meal that will be served to an influential restaurant critic. This results in discussions on food and wine pairing, from Chablis with oysters to Port (both Taylor's and Graham are shown) and chocolate. It is stated that French wine is intended to enhance French cuisine, rather than suppress its characteristics. It is seen as a marriage, joining similar tastes and scents. You will also learn which Chablis style best pairs with oysters. Out of this endeavor, Shizuku finds his first French wine for the greater contest against the Italian wines, the 2001 Saint Cosme Les Deux Albion Cotes-Du-Rhone.

Later, at a wine store owned by two brothers, he finds his second wine, the 2001 Domaine Philippe et Vincent Lecheneaut Marsanny village wine. He wanted a Burgundy and this section discusses the issue those wines as well as the concept of terroir. For his final wine, he wants a Bordeaux, and preferably one where the Cabernet Sauvignon is dominant. It is then that another detour arrives, a new contest to challenge Shizuku, but which may also deliver the Bordeaux he desires.

Maki Saionji, a wine importer and sponsor of Issei Tomine (who is Shizuku's competitor in the overall Drops of God competition), seeks Shizuku's help. Tomine selected five Bordeaux wines for an important restaurant tasting but one of the wines went bad due to shoddy handling.  So a replacement is needed and Tomine is unavailable. Shizuku is asked to taste through 100 Bordeaux wines and select a worthy replacement. But, it is actually a trap as Tomine's wine choices were higher end Bordeaux while Shizuku's choices are all allegedly lesser wines.

Shizuku accepts the challenge and chooses a wine which reminds him of a Masquerade, the 2001 Chateau Boyd-Cantenac, which is a Third Growth and the Chateau has a lesser reputation. But Shizuku is so confident of his choice, he makes a bet with Maki that his wine will best all four wines of Tomine. If he loses though, he agrees to give up the Drops of God contest, meaning that Tomine will receive his father's extensive wine collection. Shizuku's wine is in the 3000 yen range, and he will use it later in the France vs Italy contest.

Finally, the French vs Italian wine contest takes places, pitting Shizuku vs Honma. In the 1000 yen pairing, Shizuku's Cosme goes against the Cosme vs Colli di Conegliano Rosso's Contrada de Concenigo (can't determine the vintage). In the 2000 yen pairing, Shizuku's Marsanny goes against the 2000 Casa Vinicola d'Angelo Canneto. In the 3000 yen pairing, Shizuku's Cantenac goes against the Roggio del Filare (again, cannot determine the vintage). Though it is nearly a tie, a surprising vote determines the winner.

This volume of Drops of God continues to "review" wines in more unique ways, describing the feelings and memories they invoke. One delicate Burgundy is compared to "a pale, thin girl who's always reading in a corner of the classroom."  Another Burgundy brings to mind "a flea market in Paris."   A Bordeaux brings to mind a field of sunflowers. Very evocative imagery, and better than a dry recitation of fruit and floral flavors and smells.

The manga also presents some thought provoking quotes, such as:
--"Wine isn't like designer bags. People who choose wine based on rating or brand name don't really love it."
--"I don't care about magazines. I trust my own senses."
--"The most important thing in wine tasting is a memory for smells and flavors."
--"Stimulating conversation, getting people to banter, that's the charm of wine."

At one point in the tale, Shizuku received a gift, a bottle of 1982 Chateau Le Pin (which currently sells for $8K-$10K a bottle). Rather than store it away, saving it as an investment or some special occasion (which might never arrive), he decides to open it with a couple friends, helping to console one of the friends who just failed her sommelier exam. Shizuku remarks: "It was a gift, so it's perfect for chugging." An irreverent attitude, but one to admire as well.

There were more Robert Parker references in this volume than the last, often citing his scores or opinion on certain wines, such as the 2002 Domaine Philippe et Vincent Lecheneaut Grand Cru, Clos de la Roche, receiving 100 points and the 2001 Chateau Boyd-Cantenac, Grand Cru Classe Margaux garnering much accolade from Parker. But, the message seems clear, that such points really shouldn't matter much and that wine lovers much first depend on their own tastes.

At the end of this volume, Shizuku goes to the attorney's office which represents his father's estate, desirous of finally reading his father's will. In the will, it states that wine is "no mere alcohol but a masterwork as of literature or art" But like such, it also states that no wine is flawless. Tomine then shows up, and agrees with Shizuku that they will unseal only part of the will, that which describes the first wine, the first Apostle, that they must seek. The wine is described with a scene of nature, woods, a spring, butterflies and more. They now have three weeks to determine which wine is referred to in this scene.  There is a cliffhanger though, and neither Tomine or Shizuku selects a wine by the book's end.


As the first volume, Volume 2 also impressed me and I feel this book would appeal to wine lovers of all knowledge levels. It adds excitement to its educational aspects, and may enable you to see wine in a different light. I highly recommend the Drops of God series, and you can look forward to at least three more volumes this year,  including: Volume 3 on March 13, Volume 4 on June 12 and Volume 5 on September 11. I suspect you might even see Volume 6 in December. I bet you never thought a wine book could be so cool.

Friday, November 4, 2011

The Drops of God: A Fascinating Wine Comic

For four years, I have been awaiting the English translation of The Drops of God, a Japanese manga (essentially a comic book) about wine.  I first mentioned this book on my blog back in December 2007, in an article, A Comic Book Selling Wine. Since then, I have posted a few more times about this book, continuing to eagerly await the time when I could read this intriguing manga. The wait is over and The Drops of God: Volume 1 is now available, in English, in bookstores everywhere. I received a review copy of the book, and quickly devoured it, wasting no time to delve into its contents.

The Drops of God: Volume 1 ($14.95) is a trade paperback, about the size of a usual paperback manga, of 432 pages. Like a traditional manga, the book is read from back to front, which is a minor adjustment if you are not a regular manga reader and used to this format. It contains 18 issues of the original manga and I suspect subsequent volumes will contain a similar amount. The current schedule is for Volume 2 to be released on December 13, 2011 and Volume 3 on March 12, 2012.  At this rate, we might expect the release of 3-4 volumes per year.

The manga series began weekly publication in Japan in November 2004, and it is still ongoing, so it will be many years before all of the issues will be translated and published in English. In Japan, the manga will likely continue for at least a few more years, if not longer. At the current rate, three English volumes will constitute about a year of the weekly Japanese issues.

The plot centers on the will of a recently deceased wine critic, which sets into motion an intricate wine competition between two people to determine who will acquire the estate of the wine critic, including his valuable wine collection. It is a grand epic, which both informs and entertains, and has proven to be very influential. The Japanese have bought large quantities of many of the wines referenced in the manga. I found this first volume to be fascinating and intriguing, an excellent start to the series and I eagerly await the release of the next volume. Let me provide a bit more detail on the plot.

Yutaka Kanzaki was a world famous wine critic, considered a peer to Robert Parker, and died at age 67 from pancreatic cancer. He possessed a wine collection thought to be worth about 2 billion yen, which was approximately $20 million US dollars in 2004. Yutaka's deep passion for wine was evident in that he even drank on his deathbed, a 1959 Richebourg Grand Cru produced by the legendary Henri Jayer. Today in the U.S., that wine sells for over $7000 per bottle. Yutaka's estranged son, and apparently only living relative, is Shizuku Kanzaki.

Shizuku begins the series as a beer salesman, resentful of how his father raised him. Despite his father's professional fame in the world of wine, Shizuku refers to it as his father's "wine hobby." As he grew up, his father had him sniff leather belts for an hour, lick knives, snack on weird nuts, read poems, look at paintings, listen to music, and much more. This was all in the course of learning about wine yet as the series begins, Shizuku has still never tasted any wine. Shizuku grew tired of all of the training, and chose to enter into the world of beer instead. He was unaware of his father's illness as his father chose not to tell him. In addition, Shizuku was surprised to learn that a week before his father's death, his father adopted Issei Tomine, a famous wine critic.

Shizuku and Issei are set up as competitors, each trying to win Yutaka's estate. The will describes "12 great wines" as well as a "legendary wine called 'the Drops of God' that stands above all of them."  Within 1 year, each competitor must identify the name of the chosen wines, as well as their vintages. Issei did not really care about Yutaka and simply wants to claim his vast wine collection, which angers Shizuku. The first volume does not cover the identity of the first wine, though Shizuku and Issei do engage in a blind tasting contest over who will get to live in Yutaka's home. In Japan, the manga series has so far identified 8 of the 13 wines, and the competitors are tied. I suspect there will be a tie until the identification of the final wine, the legendary Drops of God.

A number of other interesting characters are introduced in the first volume, such as: Miyabi Shinohara, an apprentice sommelier at a French restaurant who becomes an ally and friend to Shizuku (will she become a love interest for Shizuku?); Shiro Fujieda, a bar owner and Miyabi's teacher who also becomes a partial mentor to Shizuku; Robert Doi, an old friend of Yutaka who also seems to be homeless; and Sara Tomine, a supermodel and Issei's sister (or will she become a love interest for Shizuku?).

The manga is educational, covering a number of wine topics such as the basics of decanting, vintage differences, and terroir and I am sure future volumes will cover other diverse wine topics. This is a fun format to learn, and the language is easy enough for everyone to understand. Though there are pretentious characters in the book, it is clear the authors' sympathies are not with those characters. Other characters present a better view of wine, with sentiments such as "But wine is originally meant to be popped open and enjoyed with friends over a tasty meal" and "Price isn't everything."

Though the first volume is very Franco-centric in its wine choices, especially devoting much attention to Burgundy, it also touch on wines from Italy and California such as the Rosso Miani and 2000 Opus One. Future volumes will cover wines from other countries as well, though France seems that it will always be the most dominant wine region.

We learn much through Shizuku's own education and exploration, who expresses his wine reviews in more unique ways. The first wine he ever tastes is the 2001 Chateau Mont-Perat, which impresses him and that he compares, in detail, to the music of the rock band Queen. Others in the volume review wines in a similar manner. For example, Issei compares the 1982 Chateau Mouton Rothschild to a painting, The Angelus, by Jean-Francois Millet. How often do U.S. writers describe wines in such a manner? Well, I think it is rather rare.

When they use language to describe wine, it can also be poetic. A woman shares a bottle of 1999 Henry Jayer Vosne-Romanee Cros-Parantoux with a man because she feels it expresses the feeling, "I want to be with you forever."  Issei feels that a Rosso Miani (an Italian wine with no vintage given) reminds him of Salome, an opera, and he states: "A demonic darkness resides in this wine" and "Indeed--this wine is sensuality itself. A blood-scented sensuality born of decadence.

Besides the great competition at the heart of this series, there are a number of other smaller contests nd challenges. These provide occasions to educate and entertain, and progress the knowledge of Shizuku. The outcomes of these challenges can surprise, and it is far from a given that Shizuku will prevail every time. These remind me of the numerous challenges from the Oishinbo manga series, which are about food and drink. The final challenge in the first volume, a contest pitting French wines against Italian wines is not completed, leaving you with a minor cliffhanger.

This manga raises many thoughts and questions in my mind. Why isn't there a good American wine comic? How popular will this manga be in the U.S.? What can the wine reviews in this manga teach us about writing our own reviews? What can this manga teach us about wine writing in general? What is the best way to educate consumers about wine? Will this manga influence American consumers like it has in Japan? If not, why not? Are American wine lovers ready for a wine comic, or will they view it, wrongly, as a childish pastime? Would this manga make an interesting television show? Can a wine television show be exciting?

American comics primarily center on superheroes, and offbeat topics like food and wine are very rare, if they exist at all. Despite the advent of more adult graphic novels, comics are still primarily seen as more for children or geeks. That is not the case in Japan, where manga are pervasive and many adults read them without any stigma. In Japan, approximately 500,000 people each week read The Drops of God, and you will never see such popularity here in the U.S. It is a significant cultural difference, and too many Americans still look at comics as not worthy of their attention. In addition, even if wine lovers might be intrigued to read this book, they would be unlikely to peruse the manga shelves for a wine book. It would be better if bookstores chose to shelve at least a few copies of The Drops of God in the wine section.

The Drops of God could help to reduce the intimidation level that many U.S. consumers feel toward wine. It presents some complex wine topics in an easy to understand manner, without talking down to the consumer. Yes, it may be simple at times but it also makes wine education fun. Combining education and entertainment is a great way to interest people in any topic.

In Japan, this manga has led to numerous wine sales though that is unlikely to happen in the U.S. First, the comics are old, the issues within the first volume being published in 2004 and 2005, so the wines mentioned probably won't be readily available, and even if they are, might be quite expensive. Some people might be interested in checking out newer vintages of some of these wines but I don't foresee any great rush to buy. But, it would be interesting to see a U.S. publisher create their own wine comic, showcasing recent wines and see how the American public reacts.

There is much more I could say about The Drops of God, more questions to address, and I may do so in the near future. I urge all wine lovers to take a look, with an open mind, at The Drops of God. Give it a chance and you might be surprised at how much you enjoy it.

Wednesday, September 7, 2011

Drops of God: Coming In October

For nearly four years, I have been waiting for this book to be released in an English edition. I first mentioned this book in an article, A Comic Book Selling Wine, on my blog in December 2007. Then, in May 2008, I mentioned how a French translation had been published. In June 2010, in a post titled, Bring On The Comics, I talked more about this book, noting that it might be published in English later in 2011. Now I am pleased to inform my readers that the English translation of Drops of God: Volume 1 will be published on October 4, 2011.

This first volume of Drops of God will be released as a trade paperback of 432 pages, with a suggested retail price of $14.95. I am unsure of how many issues of the original comic that this volume will include. Volume 2 will be released on December 13, 2011 and Volume 3 on March 12, 2012. At this rate, we might expect the release of 3-4 volumes per year. As the manga series began publication in Japan in November 2004, and it is still ongoing, it will be many years before all of the issues will be translated in English.

In Japan, the book is titled Kami no Shizuku, which translates as "The Drops of God." The book is a manga, a Japanese comic, and has a weekly readership of about 360,000. How many wine magazines have even close to such a readership?  The plot centers on a quest by two competitors to locate thirteen legendary wines. Whoever succeeds will then inherit an invaluable collection of rare wines. It is an extremely popular series and the wines that it mention suddenly become hot commodities. The book also describes wines in more unique ways, not using points or any type of rating system.  For example, the 2001 Despagne's Château Mont Perat was "...likened to a concert given by the rock group Queen, with the wine's acidity taking the place of Freddie Mercury's vocals."

In Decanter's Power List of 2009, Drops of God came in at #50, and it was stated to be "arguably the most influential wine publication for the past 20 years." But how will the U.S. wine lovers feel about Drops of God? Will it be as popular here as it has been around the rest of the world?  Will it help sell wine? Or will it be but a minor footnote?

I believe that its impact, at least in reference to selling wine, with be much lesser in the U.S. than it has been elsewhere. First, as the manga is seven years old, most of the information on specific wines will likely be dated. It may be difficult, if not impossible, to purchase wines mentioned in the manga and even if available, the prices may be prohibitive. At best, the manga might sell a few more wines, but that will be a mere drop in the bucket compared to how the manga has been received elsewhere.

I also feel that it is unlikely that the general public will embrace this manga, as we don't have a culture of adults who embrace comics like Japan or France. Too many people still see all comics as juvenile and below their maturity. How wrong they are though, as comics come in a such a wide range, with many written for an adult audience. The manga will appeal far more to wine geeks, and even some of them may not be keen on reading a comic about wine.

But Drops of God deserves attention, at least for in the ways it addresses wine knowledge and reviews. It is more down to earth, unpretentious and presents a unique style. It can provide lessons to wine writers in different ways to connect with their readers, in different ways to review wines without scores or rating systems. It is a clever book, which could be an intriguing primer on wine for anyone. A comic may not be considered a traditional wine book but that is also a strength. It can take risks, and both entertain as well as educate.

I urge all wine lovers to take a look, with an open mind, at Drops of God when it is published next month. Give it a chance and you might be surprised at how much you enjoy it.

Tuesday, November 2, 2010

U.S. Wine Exports & Imports: The Underdogs

Which countries are buying the most U.S. wines?  Which countries are selling the U.S. the most wines?  And who are the underdogs in both questions?  The answers intrigue me, especially those indicating which wines are the most underappreciated. You will often find excellent values in such underdog wines, and are usually well worth checking out.  

I found some of the answers in a new article, US International Wine Sales by Country So Far in 2010, written by Daniel Workman and compiled from documents of the United States International Trade Commission. The stastistics deal with the first seven months of 2010, and only list the top 15 countries in both categories.  Plus, the statistics are compared to the similar period in 2009.  And I found the information quite fascinating. 

First, the U.S. imports far more wine than it exports, a trade deficit of $1.74 billion, which is 1.6% more than the same period last year. We are importing approximately $2.3 billion in wine from all over the world, which is 7% more than the same period last year.  So we are drinking more foreign wine but what are we drinking?  Which countries are receiving that money?

Second, the top three importers of wine to the U.S. are Italy (up 11% over last year), France (about even with last year) and Australia (down 4% over last year).  Combined, those three countries constitute about 54% of all wine imports to the U.S.  That is not too surprising, and shows the strength of Italian wines in the U.S. My own wine collection has a significant number of Italian wines, especially from some of the smaller, artisan wineries. I have a fair share of French wines but only a handful of Australian wines, and mainly slightly older ones.

What was more surprising though were the identities of the #4 and #5 importers, Argentina (up 23% over last year) and Chile (about even). I thought that other European countries would be higher on the list than these two regions, but that is not the case. It could be because Argentina and Chile have been pushed for the last couple years as up and coming regions with good value wines.  Though maybe it also has to do with that those regions are producing wines more in a New World style. I only have a handful of wines from these regions too.

Spain comes in at #6, up 14% from last year, while Portgual is #9, up 37.5% from last year. Seems Iberian wines, and especially Portuguese, have been getting a significant boost lately, probably again because they do produce some very good value wines.  For me, I think Portugal is producing some of the best under $10 wines in the market. I have a fair share of Iberian wines in my cellar.

One of the biggest surprises is the Netherlands, at #12, which had an incredible increase of 749% over last year.  Where are all those wines, as I have not seen them locally?  Maybe they are concentrated in a different part of the U.S.  The Netherlands rank higher than Austria, Greece and Canada, though all three countries have seen increases since last year. Those three countries are underdogs, but all produce very worthy wines that you should taste.  I am especially fond of Greek wines, preferring those made from indigenous Greek grapes. Even Israel wines, at #11 and up 41% over last year, does better than these three countries. Those three countries really need more promotion.  And has anyone seen wines from the Netherlands?

And who is buying U.S. wines?

Third, the top three export markets for U.S. wines are Canada (up 23% over last year), the United Kingdom (up 22%), and Hong Kong (up 117%).  Japan comes in at #4, up 2.6% over last year, and China is #6, up 101%.  So, it seems true that the Asian market for wine is increasing significantly, and has lots of potential.  Asians are buying far more than just expensive French wines. Considering the large wine trade deficit, the Asian market may be where the U.S. can work at cutting that deficit. Though part of the issue may also be is that the U.S. does not produce enough wine to balance the deficit.  Overall though, total exports are up 27%, which is a very positive sign.  More and more countries are seeing the value of U.S.wines.

It is interesting to compare some of the import/export figures for specific countries, namely the top three countries we import. Consider Italy, where the U.S. imports $709.6 million but Italy only buys $38.3 million from the U.S.  As for France, we import $511.6 million but France only buys $6 million from us.  And for Australia, we import $363.7 million but they are not even part of the top 15 countries that receive wine exports from the U.S., meaning they import less than $6 million in U.S.wine. Those three countries are the main reason for our wine trade deficit.  How can we get them to purchase more U.S. wine?  Or do they have so much of their own wine that they don't want ours?  Or should we ignore these three and concentrate instead on the Asian market?

It would have been nice to have more detailed information, such as a breakdown of imports by price, wine region, wine style, etc. That might help us see the trends, whether inexpensive wines have been increasing or not.  It might also help indicate why some countries export more wine to the U.S. 

How do you own wine collections stack up to these import/export statistics?

Monday, August 23, 2010

The Wine Bunker: Opening in October

Last month, I mentioned that a new, discount wine store, The Wine Bunker, was coming to Reading. I now have some additional information I wanted to share with my readers.

I stopped by Corporate Wines in Woburn to ask about the new store, and they were able to share some information about their plans. I should note that Corporate Wines seems to have lots of empty spaces in their wine racks, and some wines are spread out over the facings so that the number of different brands of wine is much less than you might think. Maybe they are currently devoting more attention to the new store.

The Wine Bunker will be located at 128 Marketplace Shopping Center, One General Way, near the Market Basket. It is scheduled to open in October and will only sell wine, and no beer or spirits. They are partially modeled after Rapid Liquors in Stoneham, a wine store I often recommend to people because of their very low prices. Thus, the Wine Bunker wants to offer wines at prices competitive with Rapid, but they will try not to carry the same wines as Rapid carries.

They will offer a case discount, maybe 20%, but that is still tentative. That will be a difference from Rapid, as they do not offer a case discount. They will carry wines at all price points, including some high-end wines. Their selection should have 1000+ wines, including a fair share of Washington and Oregon wines, which they consider to be excellent value wines. There will be weekly tastings, though they might also always have an open bottle available for tasting.

I will be sure to check out the Wine Bunker when it opens, and I will report back my thoughts.

Thursday, June 17, 2010

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Welcome to a new feature on my blog, Thursday Sips & Nibbles. This will be a semi-regular column where I briefly mention some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. Generally, these items will be too brief for their own article, but they are worthy of mentioning. They might include updates on previous items and places I have reviewed or news about upcoming restaurants, wine stores, or related food/wine places.

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1) Whenever I am dining near Boylston Street, it is very difficult to eat dessert at anywhere but La Patissier in Troquet. I have often raved about the exquisite creations of Pastry Chef Sarah Woodfine and every visit solidifies my feelings. I recently savored a new treat, the Plum & Ginger Napolean (pictured above), a towering treat that delighted my palate. There are sesame chips between the various layers which added a nice crunchy texture to the smooth and creamy fillings. Excellent presentation, delicious flavors and fresh fruit. I also got to taste the new Strawberry Souffle, and it was just as good as her other souffles, light and full of sweet flavor. If you have not eaten there yet, then what is wrong with you?

2) There is a new bakery in Melrose, the Busy Bee Bakery, located at One Hurd Street, across from the Wyoming Hill train station. Besides serving a variety of baked goods, they also serve both breakfast and lunch. I stopped by the other day and tried some of their cookies and cupcakes. I tasted their Snickerdoodles, Chocolate Chip and Double Chocolate cookies ($0.65 each). I have high standards for my Snickerdoodles and these actually did very well, a nice combination of crisp and soft, with a tasty cinnamon flavor. The other cookies also tasted very good, and seemed very fresh. The cupcakes did well too, and passed my moistness standard. Their icing was soft and creamy, and not too sweet. I see potential here and will return soon to check out more of their foods.

3) Melrose also has a new Thai restaurant, Spice Thai Kitchen, located at 454 Franklin Street. It is only take-out and delivery, and has quite a diverse menu, including some non-Thai items. I ordered some take-out the other day and it was pretty good. Not as good as Taste of Siam in Stoneham, but respectable food. I especially liked their Thai Ravioli and Siam Roti. I will be back to check out more of their dishes, especially some of the different ones such as Chiangmai Noodle and Thai Panang.

4) Continuing on the Melrose theme, Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet at 538 Main Street, is always adding new products so it is worth checking them out on a regular basis. They recently added Woodchuck Pear Cider which I have previously raved about. Plus, they have added a Local Wine section, showcasing wines made in New England. Currently they carry Turtle Creek and Black Dog, with more wines to come. It is always good to see wine stores supporting local wineries.

Wednesday, June 16, 2010

The Wild Vine: Norton Grape

"Foxy" is usually a compliment, except when applied to wine. A woman who is "foxy" is considered attractive, while a man who is said to be "foxy" may be considered cunning and clever. But a wine that is foxy has an unappealing musky aroma and taste, and the term is most often used when referring to American wines made from vitis labrusca, not vinifera grapes. Hybrid grapes though often lack that foxy nature.

One such hybrid is the Norton grape, thought to be a cross of the Bland and Pinot Meunier grapes. It is discussed in more detail in The Wild Vine: A Forgotten Grape and the Untold Story of American Wine by Todd Kliman (Crown Publishing Group, May 2010, $25). It is a hardcover book, of 280 pages, and Kliman is the Food and Wine Editor of The Washingtonian, also having authored numerous articles for many different publications.

The Wild Vine presents a history of the Norton grape, from its creation in the nineteenth century to its current production across the U.S. Yet this history covers other wine matters as well, from the efforts of Jamestown through the effects of Prohibition. The book ranges from Virginia to California, with stops in places such as Missouri. You'll meet various interesting personalities, showing how the Norton gained fame, and then fell almost into obcurity.

I found the book both compelling and interesting, a well-written and intriguing tale. I learned a number of things from the book, which is always a good thing. One of the most fascinating bits of trivia was the origin of the term "foxy." The original Jamestown founders tried to produce wine made from native American grapes, vitis labrusca, but found the wines often gave off a musky character that they described as "foxiness." This term has remained with us even today.

The Norton grape was created around 1821 by a Virginia physician and amateur horticulturalist Daniel Norborne Norton. He wanted to create a durable, disease-resistant grape that would produce a delicious wine. And he succeeded. The grape became more popularized by a Long Island nursery which mentioned the grape in its influential catalog, calling it "Norton's Virginia Seedling." The nursery also published an influential book, A Treatise on the Vine, which gave raves to the grape.

The Norton grape then spread across country, including into Missouri where numerous German settlers were planting vineyards. Interestingly, most of these Germans were originally from northern Germany, and not the wine country of the south. By 1870, Missouri, with about 120 wineries, led the nation in wine production. And in 1873, a Missouri wine presented a Norton wine at the Universal Exhibition in Vienna, winning a Medal of Merit, and being one of only three wineries in the U.S. to win such a medal.

But that was a highlight which was soon eclipsed by the the growth of the California wine industry. Around 1870, Missouri had accounted for 42% of all of the wine in the country but by the turn of the century, it accounted for only 3%. California had become a wine power, able to produce grapes at half the price of Missouri. Prohibition would also do its best in hindering wine production across the country.

But around 1965, there was a resurging interest in the Norton grape, and it now is planted in numerous places, including Virginia, Illinois, Missouri, Texas, Arkansas and others. Kliman spends time discussing his encounters with Jenni McCloud, the owner and winemaker at Chrysalis Winery in Virginia. Jenni is an ardent advocate of the Norton grape. Kliman also mentions that Jenni is a transsexual, though I am not sure that information is really relevant to the matter, and almost seems too salacious.

The book has perked my interest about tasting some good wines made from the Norton grape. I was able to ask Kliman, via email, about which Norton wines he has tasted and enjoyed. Though he does not have detailed tasting notes, he has tasted Norton wines from Arkansas, Illinois, Missouri, Texas and Virginia. His favorite Norton wines came from Chrysalis (Virginia), Stone Hill Winery (Missouri), and Adam Puchta Winery (Missouri).

If you enjoy wine history books, I would definitely recommend this book. It illuminates a grape that is very American, yet which many may not have encountered before. It is well-researched, easy to read, and informative.

Has anyone else read this book yet?

Monday, March 22, 2010

Rant: Are Millennials the Future of Wine?

There is much talk about Millennials and how they are the future of wine. The obvious answer is that as they are the next generation, they are the future of wine. Simple logic. But, what will that really mean? Will their spending habits be greater than other generations? The jury appears to still be out on that question.

Currently, Millennials spend, on average, the least amount of money on wine each year. In Wine Spirits Daily, there was recently a brief article on the buying habits of the four key generations

"Nielsen analyzed the shopping habits of four key generations - greatest generation (aged 64+), boomers (45-63), gen x (33-44) and millennials (15-32) - and gave a rundown on what marketers should expect when targeting these groups. Interestingly, wine is one of the largest spending categories for seniors at $124 per year. Boomers spend $125 per year on wine, while gen x spends $78 and millennials spend $61 annually."

So Millennials are spending half what Boomers and Seniors spend, and about 20% less than Gen X. So when will this change, when will Millennials be spending more money on wine? Or will it never change to any significant degree? Is the publicity about Millennials being the future of wine merely sound and fury, signifying nothing? What is the reality beyond the hype?

Beyond the Millenbial issue, it is intriguing how little people spend, on average, for wine each year. Wine still needs to make much greater inroads among all segments of the population. I know that I spend way above average on wine each year. I have spent more money on a single visit to a wine store than the average person does all year. Most other wine bloggers are probably in the same situation.

I think wine marketers should consider addressing all generations, as none of them are really spending an inordinate amount of money on wine. There is opportunity with all four generations, and ignoring any segment is ignoring oppurtunities. Wine consumption may be continuing to increase in the U.S., but it can easily grow much more.

Thursday, December 10, 2009

Does Advertising Skew Wine Spectator Wine Reviews?

We live in a world with many urban myths, so-called "truths" that are often accepted with a lack of any real evidence. It is always curious why such urban myths spread and are accepted. It may partially be due to such myths appealing to our prejudices.

As an example, some people have accused magazines like Wine Spectator of being biased towards wineries that advertise in their magazine. They seem to think that the large, full page ads cause reviewers to favor those wines. Yet these allegations are never supported by actual evidence. So what is the truth? Are the accuser simply prejudiced against Wine Spectator?

An actual study has now been conducted on this issue and the report has just been issued. Check out Does Advertising Bias Product Reviews? An Analysis of Wine Ratings by Jonathan Reuter (Journal of Wine Economics, Volume 4, Issue 2, Winter 2009, Pages 125–151). Reuter is a local person, working at the Department of Finance of the Carroll School of Management at Boston College.

To test this issue, Reuter compared two wine publications, Wine Spectator and Wine Advocate. As the Wine Advocate does not accept advertising, he felt it would be appropriate to compare its wine scores with those of the Wine Spectator, which does accept advertising. I think it might have been a better, and more comprehensive, study if Reuter had also compared the Wine Enthusiast, or other major wine magazines, which accept advertising.

His basic conclusion shatters the urban myth: "Overall, the tests for biased ratings and biased awards produce little consistent evidence that Wine Spectator favors advertisers." So will this myth die out? Probably not, as some prefer to believe this rather than confront the facts.

Taken in the worst light against Wine Spectator, the study suggested that wines from advertisers may score almost one point higher than wines from nonadvertisers, as compared to the wine scores in the Wine Advocate. But Reuter also stated this "..is also consistent with the two publications evaluating wine using different standards, perhaps because they cater to different consumer tastes." There are also other reasons why that might be the case. In addition, less than one point certainly is not a very significant difference, and could well be in an acceptable margin of error.

Though some people may try to cling to this less than one point difference to further the urban myth, they are holding onto something very shaky, as well as ignoring numerous other factors. It is significant that Reuter found that "..,Wine Spectator is no more likely to bestow awards upon advertisers." This helps support the conclusion that advertising does not bias Wine Spectator reviews.

This might also be a wake-up call to advertisers who felt they were getting better reviews based on all of their advertising dollars. Their money was not buying them anything extra.

Let us continue to shatter wine's urban myths!

Monday, November 2, 2009

Rant: Wine Impediments in Massachusetts

Wine lovers: Today, there is a very important appeal before the Massachusetts courts.

First, back in November 2008, wine lovers in Massachusetts scored a big win when the court declared that MA House Bill 4498, which had become law, was unconstitutional. This law had been an impediment to wineries who desired to ship wine to Massachusets residents. When it was declared unconstitutional, there was hope that soon enough, we could order wine directly from wineries.

Then, back in February 2009, Attorney General Martha Coakley placed a road block in that path, by appealing the court decision to the 1st Circuit Court of Appeals.

Today that court will hear arguments on the appeal. Yesterday's Boston Herald provided a summary of the issues in this matter. The law does not operate quickly, and even after arguments are heard, it could still be months before a decision is rendered. And even if a decision is rendered in favor of wine lovers, another appeal could probably be taken.

Stop this silliness and just allow wines to be shipped into Massachusetts. Don't waste the taxpayer's money, especially in these difficult economic times, on lengthy appeals. We all need our voices to be heard in this matter.

Sunday, August 2, 2009

Rabelais: Feed Your Mental Hunger

I am a man of many different passions. For one, I am a voracious reader and own a veritable library of books, an eclectic assortment of thousands of paperbacks and hardcovers. So when I travel, I love to check out bookstores, hoping to find something exciting and interesting. A week does not pass without me purchasing at least one, and usually several new books.

My passion for food and wine is also quite evident. So when you combine my love of books with my love of food and wine, you create something that ignites my passions. On my recent trip to Portland, Maine, I found a place which did exactly this, Rabelais Books. Located a short distance from Duck Fat, this bookstore is a "must stop" for any food and wine lover.

Rabelais Books, which opened in April 2007, is an independent book store owned by Don and Samantha Hoyt Lindgren. Both of them were working in the store when I visited and they both seemed very pleasant and personable. Rabelais has that intimate feel of many other independent bookstores.

The store stocks new, out of print, and rare books on food, wine, beer, spirits, farming, gardening and related topics. Samantha mentioned they were concerned how the large bookstore chains would display many books but for only a short time period. If you did not happen to see the book during this brief time, then you might never learn about it. Samantha and Don wanted to give a longer shelf life to some of those books, even those that were out of print, because they felt those books were interesting and that people would like to buy and read them, if they only knew about them.

Though the store is relatively small, it is still comfortably spacious and filled with plenty of books. The books are easy to check out and most of them are organized by subject. It is the kind of place you could easily spend a couple hours browsing all the selections. I am sure you will find titles here that you probably have not seen anywhere else. I certainly found many that were new to me.

I ended up buying several books, and probably would have bought even more if I had spent additional time browsing their shelves. The diversity of their selections is excellent, and I really love their idea of giving additional life to books that come and go too quickly at large chain bookstores. Plus, you have to appreciate the personal touch you find here, store owners doing it for the passion.
Check out their website for more information about the store, including a list of upcoming events as well as their own blog. I will certainly return here the next time I am in Portland and give it my highest recommendation. If you visit Portland, make sure to stop by.

86 Middle St.
Portland, ME
Phone: 207-774-1044

Friday, July 10, 2009

Wine in a Bag: Box or Barrel?

Which appeals to you more? Finding a small wine barrel at the bar or a box of wine? Many people would probably prefer the barrel. Yet the difference between the barrel and the box is mere appearances. It may alter your perception of the wine, though the wine itself may not be any different.

DeLoach Vineyards has created "Barrel to Barrel," an interesting twist on wine-by-the-glass. They now sell barrels that hold ten liters of wine, currently their 2008 Pinot Noir. Though only 50 of these barrels were produced. A restaurant or other establishment can place the barrel atop their bar, to use to pour glasses of wine. It should appeal to consumers, making them feel like they are having a cellar experience, drinking wine straight from the barrel.

But looks can be deceiving. The wine is actually being held inside the barrel by a special "Eco Bag," which will minimize oxidation and keep the wine fresher for longer. The barrel can even be refilled by just inserting another bag of wine. This is the concept behind wine in a box, just made to look much nicer. This is environmentally friendly in a number of ways.

Vox Populi, an American bistro and martini bar in the Back Bay, bought two of these barrels and feature the Pinot Noir by the glass at $9.

Vox Populi Proprietor, Joseph Quattrocchi, said about the DeLoach partnership: “At Vox, we’re about bringing all kinds of experiences straight to the people. With DeLoach, we hope to transport the vineyard tasting experience straight to Boston in the form their cellar-to-glass model.

I think the barrel will be far more popular than boxed wines, as it gives the illusion of a wine cellar experience. Kudos for the wine being more ecofriendly.

Tuesday, June 30, 2009

Governor Patrick Approves Alcohol Tax

Start stocking up on wine and liquor now as the alcohol tax is coming.

I recently ranted about the proposed 6.25% tax on alcohol that Massachusetts legislature has proposed. The budget passed the House and Senate though Governor Patrick was ready to veto it unless some ethics reform legislation also passed. But the House and Senate passed an ethics bill and Governor Patrick has now approved much of the budget, including the new alcohol tax.

The 6.25% sales tax on alcohol will go into effect on August 1, 2009. So, buy your wine, beer and liquor now before the tax goes into effect. Stock up now when you can save money.

Now let us see if Governor Patrick can get re-elected after approving these new taxes.

Tuesday, June 23, 2009

Women & Wine Preferences

Women buy more wine than men. Besides that fact, there are numerous other differences between women and men as it relates to wine. The new issue of Wine Spectator (7/31/09) discusses an intriguing online survey, that the magazine conducted in conjunction with Vinexpo, concerning women and wine.

The survey involved only 431 women (aged 21 to over 60 years old) in the U.S. So, though this is only a small sample, some of its findings reflect results from prior studies and surveys. The results are also still interesting.

93% of the respondents drank wine at least once a week and 80% of the time it is with food. It is good to see so many women drinking wine with their meals. I think that helps promote more of a wine culture, that wine can be an integral accompaniement to food. 79% of women prefer red wine to white or rose. That goes against the stereotype of women usually being white wine lovers.

It was also good to see that 65% of the time women would try a new wine rather than buy a wine they have had before and enjoyed. Nice to see how adventurous they are with wine and I only hope men are similarly as adventurous.

What was really interesting, was to see where women and men seek out advice on buying wine. Respondents could choose two answers. For women, they most often (46.2%) would turn to a wine merchant. They would consult newspapers and magazines about 35.7% of the time. Only 26% consulted Internet resources, such as blogs. For men, there were some differences. Men consulted newspapers and magazines about 44% of the time and consulted Internet resources about 46% of the time.

So it appears men are more likely than women to consult blogs for wine advice and recommendations. Magazines and newspapers still remain a significant factor for both men and women. All very interesting.

Monday, June 22, 2009

New BJ's Liquor Store

Back in January, I mentioned that a new liquor store was coming to Stoneham. A liquor license was granted to RWJ Beverage LLC. and they have now opened a small store within B.J.'s Wholesale Club. I previously had some concerns about whether this would be the type of store that I would like, whether it would be a place for wine lovers or not.

I have checked out the new store a couple times now, and should note that some minor changes were made since my original stop. But, much of my concerns about this store seem to have been realized.

The store is roughly rectangular with wine and alcohol on three sides, plus two rows of wine bins in the middle of the store. There is a small, windowed case for some of the more expensive items.

They sell some hard liquor though their selection is more limited than many other stores. For example, they only have eight brands of vodka, from Gordon's to Ketel One. Prices are good and that seems to be the primary reason why many will buy alcohol here. Though you can find other stores with similar competive prices, such as Rapid Liquors in Stoneham.

There are about 100 different wines available, approximately 90% costing less than $20. There are many familiar brands, such as Yellowtail and Beringer. They seemed to be heavy on California wines and I was not keen on their diversity. This is not a place where I found anything unique or unusual. But, prices are good and that will be a drawing point for some. For example, the Caymus Conundrum only cost $22, as opposed to the more usual $27-$30.

There were only about five higher-end wines in their windowed cabinet, from a 2006 Stag's Leap Artemis Cabernet Sauvignon ($45) to a 2006 Concha Y Toro Don Melchor ($60). Those prices are only about 10% less than usual retail so they are not significantly discounted.

The store will likely undergo some further minor changes in the near future but they are not headed in the direction I would prefer. This is not a destination for wine lovers but rather a place to go to save a little money on ordinary wines and liquors. Though my preference, if I want to save money and get a better selection of wine and alcohol, I will continue going to Rapid Liquors.

Update as of 6/22/09 (2:30pm): I had an informative conversation with Mike Reardon of RWJ Beverage. He explained much about the model for his wine/liquor store, future plans, and other such matters. It was a very positive conversation and I will be sharing my insights soon. In short, Mike is really trying to improve the store and make it a worthwhile destination.

Rant: Alcohol Tax in Massachusetts

Just read the local headlines of the Boston newspapers. Corrupt politicians taking bribes, rampant spending waste, difficult economic times for many families. Do we really need more taxes? Especially on alcohol?

The proposal for the new Massachusetts budget includes an increase to the sales tax, from 5% to 6.25%, as well as making that tax applicable to alcohol, which was previously nontaxed at retail stores. That budget is close to being enacted. Both the House and Senate have approved the bill and it is now up to Governor Deval Patrick. The Governor has stated he would veto the sales tax increase unless the Legislature also passed ethics reform legislation. So it is unsure whether the the tax increase will go through or not.

When so many families are having difficulty making ends meet, then how will additional taxes help them? From speaking to a number of people, it will likely cause many of them to spend less or go to New Hampshire where there is no sales tax. This will be especially noticeable in those cities and towns closest to New Hampshire. New Hampshire liquor stores already have good prices, and a decent selection, so why wouldn't people buy their wine and alcohol there? The alcohol tax will hurt small many business owners in Massachusetts, especially those small, independent wine and liquor stores.

If the state wants help with their budget, they should first directly address the problems of waste and corruption that exist. The Governor at least seems to understand part of that. Let us see if the Governor remains true to his statement though.

Monday, June 15, 2009

Rant: Restaurants & Beverages

It is Monday morning and once again time for my weekly rant.

Though restaurants obviously understand the importance of their food, they sometimes fail to recognize that their beverages can be just as important. Food and drink complement each other, and a failure in the drink department can thus hurt a restaurant's overall quality. Sometimes it may seem a small matter, but those small items can make a significant difference.

I love fresh brewed, unsweetened iced tea. It is actually very easy and inexpensive to make yet some restaurants don't seem to get it. First, some restaurants won't serve iced tea year round because it is seen as a "summer" drink. Yet those same places will serve iced coffee year round as well as ice cream. Let us see iced tea available all the time. Second, some restaurants serve iced tea from the fountain, like a soda. I strongly dislike the taste of such iced tea. It seems artificial and has a funky taste. They should just spend $25 and buy an iced tea maker. Third, and what really irks me, is when a restaurant charges me for refills of my iced tea. It is so cheap to make, that it seems criminal when you get charged an extra $2 or more for a refill. A restaurant with unlimited refills of iced tea gets my recommendation.

I am also a big fan of Saké and it bothers me when the only thing I see on a drink menu is "Hot Saké." Generally, Saké is best serve chilled. Even when it is served warm, it should not be served as hot as you get it at those restaurants. Why serve Saké at all if you are not going to do it right? Yet just because a restaurant serves chilled Saké does not let them off the hook. If you buy a bottle of Saké, the restaurant should keep it chilled at your table, like they would a bottle of white wine. But not all places do that and they should.

There are 25-30 wineries in Massachusetts, plus plenty more in the rest of New England. In addition, New York, has its own significant wine industry. So why don't you see more of these local wines on restaurant wine lists? Why aren't more restaurants supporting local wineries? Yes, some restaurants will add one or two local wines to their menus, but plenty don't. Those restaurants who pride themselves on providing local foods should especially consider adding local wines to their lists. Not all local wines are worthy of a restaurant wine list, but there are plenty that would enhance such a list.

Do you have some of your own restaurant and beverage issues? If so, please tell me about them in the comments.

Saturday, April 18, 2009

White House: American Wine Only?

The theme of the current administration of the White House is "Change." But will President Obama change the wine policy? Though, the question should also be posed, should he change it?

Back under the administration of Lyndon Johnson, it was decreed that only American wines would be served at official dinners and functions. This policy has remained in effect ever since, for over forty years. No matter how much a President might like French Champagne, only American sparkling wines can be served. The basic reason seems to be that such dinners and functions should showcase the best of America, including our wines. Presenting wines from other countries might be seen as a slight of our own wines.

I generally agree that it is probably the best policy to serve American wines at such official dinners and functions. We should be proud of our wine industry. All fifty states now have wineries and plenty of states are producing some very good wines. Let us show the world the quality of the wines we can produce.

But, I also think there might be an occasion where we might want to bend that policy. The policy should not be absolute. It should permit some flexibility. Maybe a visiting dignitary wishes to share a wine from their country. Why not let that wine be served at an official dinner, beside our own American wines? Let us use discretion when following the wine policy.

What do you think?