Why Are You Fat?

According to the CDC, about 36% of U.S. adults are obese and as of 2010, about 23% of the people in Massachusetts are considered obese. Their definition of obesity is based on the Body Mass Index (BMI), though they acknowledge that is not a fully accurate way of assessing individuals, such as athletes. These obesity figures do not include those people who are only overweight, though that would raise the percentage significantly of those Americans who weigh too much.

Each year, these figures continue to increase but why is that so? Why are so many putting on extra pounds? We think we understand the reasons but is that really the case? Could we be looking at all of this in the wrong way? That might very well be the case.

Scientific American recently published a special Food Issue (September 2013), which contains nine fascinating articles about food related issues, from How (and Why) To Eat Invasive Species by Chef Bun Lai to The First Cookout, an interview with Richard Wrangham. Two of the articles dealt with issues of weight gain, offering interesting takes on what is often considered "common knowledge." We need to start looking at some of our treasured beliefs, to reassess what we think, and hopefully find a better path to weight loss.

The first thing we need to do is to reconsider the calorie, understanding that the calorie counts on food labels are not accurate indicators of the amount of calories an individual will receive. Rob Dunn, a biologist at North Carolina State University, penned an article, Everything You Know About Calories Is Wrong, explaining the problems of calorie counts. Calorie determination is based on a 19th century system that uses averages, ignoring numerous important factors such as the effects of digestion and cooking.

Dunn states: "To accurately calculate the total calories that someone gets out of a given food, you would have to take into account a dizzying array of factors, including whether that food has evolved to survive digestion; how boiling, baking, microwaving or flambeing a food changes its structure and chemistry; how much energy the body expends to break down different kinds of food; and the extent to which the billions of bacteria in the gut aid human digestion and, conversely, steal some calories for themselves." (p.58) What that means is that two individuals, eating the same amount of calories, will not incur the same amount of calories, so that one person might lose weight while the other might not.

For example, cooking food allows a person to obtain more of the calories in that food than you would if the food was raw. So if two people consumed 2000 calories of food, and one person cooked all his food while the other ate all his raw, the person with the raw food would actually take in less calories. The type of food matters as well. For example, nuts generally are less completely digested than some other foods, meaning you get less calories from them. In addition, each individual is different in their biological make-up, meaning they will take in more or less calories than another person.

What that all means is that a diet that merely counts calories is overly simplistic and potentially doomed to failure. It would explain the frustration some dieters have when seeing others lose weight, on similar amounts of calories, which they can't seem to lose. People need more education about calories, to understand that label calorie counts are probably closer to suggestions than actual facts. At best, those calorie counts might stand as a potential maximum amount that can be derived.

All this discussion of calories though is based on the theory that weight gain is due to an imbalance between calories consumed and calories expended. In short, if you eat too much, ingest too many calories, or are too sedentary, exercising little, then you will gain weight. Most people accept this as a given, yet it hasn't prevented more and more people each year gaining excess weight nor has it prevented an increase in metabolic disorders like Type 2 Diabetes. Why is that so if we know exactly what causes weight gain?

Gary Taubes, co-founder of the Nutrition Science Initiative, in his article Which One Will Make You Fat?, poses an alternative theory of weight gain. He notes that the calorie theory actually never was based on proper scientific studies, being accepted more as a given. It sounds like a logical theory but even those should receive empirical proof of their validity. Gary offers another potential theory, which he believes deserves to be investigated, and which a few scientists have now started to address in new studies.

Rather than being due to an energy imbalance, weight gain could be instead due to a hormonal defect, with the primary offender being carbohydrates. The science is interesting. The carbohydrate glucose causes the pancreas to secrete insulin, to prevent glucose levels from being too high. The insulin causes some of that glucose to be stored as fat for some future use, which means that if insulin levels remain high, then you gain more and more fat. By avoiding or limiting carbohydrates, you prevent this fat storage from occurring, and that might be the best way to avoid gaining weight. So worrying about calorie intake might not be as important, as where those calories come from.

More scientific studies are needed to resolve this conundrum, but just the fact that we are questioning "common knowledge," which never actually was proven, is a major step forward. If you are having trouble losing weight, and you believe you are doing everything right, then it is time to reconsider the basis of your beliefs.

Rant: A Wake Up Call To The Food Obsessed

It seems like a staggering statistic based on the amount of restaurants that exist in the U.S. and considering all of the supermarkets and specialty food shops that are around. There are so many thousands of food writers in the U.S. as well as entire magazines and television networks devoted to food. Food seems like an obsession in the U.S. However, if so, then why does the U.S. actually spend so little on food?

In Urner Barry's Reporter (Winter 2013), it is reported that, on average, the U.S. spends 6.7% of its income on food, which happens to be the lowest percentage of the developed and developing world. There is a list of more than 60 countries which spend a higher percentage on food than the U.S. The median income  in the U.S. is approximately $50,000 so about $3350 of that is spent on food, roughly $64 a week. That is less than $10 per day!

During the last one hundred years, Americans have been spending less and less of their income on food. In the 1930s, Americans were spending about 21% of their income on food, which declined to 17% by the 1950s. That percentage has now dropped down to less than 7%, a huge change over all that time. The Urner Barry article does not provide any possible explanation for this low figure so we can only speculate, though various other sources seem to put much of the blame over all the cheap food available.

Chain restaurants like McDonald's and an abundance of cheap, prepackaged foods make it easy and inexpensive to eat. Many people can't be bothered to spend an hour or more cooking at home. They just want the ability to quickly purchase some fast food or pop a premade dish in the oven. The problem, ignored by many of these people, is that those cheap prices can come with a heavy cost, ill health and obesity.

It would be best if many of those people who regularly patronized such chains and bought all those prepackaged foods would cook more at home, from basic ingredients. That can be done inexpensively though even if it might be a bit more expensive up front, in the end it would be less costly as their health would benefit. Convincing those people to change though is an arduous task. Looking at the bottom line is much easier for people than looking forward to the future.

Though all of that may explain why many people spend so little on food, it doesn't explain our cultural obsession with food. The reason may be is that there is a food elite, a percentage of our population which spends a far greater percentage of their income on food. They also tend to be the individuals who cook more at home, while also patronizing higher end restaurants. They also tend to be concerned more with issues such as sustainability. They are the ones who read all about food, who watch television shows about food, who write about food. I would fall into this category, as I certainly spend a higher percentage more than 7% of my income on food.

Such individuals need to properly understand the privilege they possess, the ability to be able to spend a higher percentage on food. Economically, I am strongly within the middle class and have struggled over the last few years to make ends meet. I don't consider myself wealthy by any stretch of the imagination. Of my friends who are similarly food obsessed, none of them are wealthy either. Many of them have struggled during these years of economic turmoil. We are not the 1% yet we have more disposable income than some others.

Our economic woes are nothing compared to so many others in this country. There is a wide economic gap even between the middle class and the poor. The latest figures show that 14.5% of U.S. households are food insecure, the highest total ever. In a country with so much food available, it is a travesty that so many still go hungry. It is a greater travesty that the number of hungry people continues to grow to record levels. We desperately need to help fight this massive problem.

I thus implore the food obsessed, the watchers of food shows, the readers of food blogs, those able to spend so much more money on food than many others:

Get Off Your Ass And Help The Less Fortunate! 

A new year has begun so let it begin on a positive note. Make a resolution to help the less fortunate, to feed the hungry. Skip your $5 coffee, cancel your $25 lunch, forget your $100 dinner. Do something, anything, which will make our country a better and more food secure place. Lend your support to organizations dedicated to alleviating hunger. Individually, we might only be able to make small contributions, but when added together, the impact can be great.

So what are you waiting for? Stop reading my blog and go help the food insecure!

Are Veggie Burgers Deadly?

I get shivers down my spine when I am at a BBQ, watching the burgers and hotdogs on the grill, and then see someone add a veggie burger. Though that person might think that the veggie burger is healthier for them, they might be very wrong. They might be ingesting a potentially harmful toxin.

In the current issue of Mother Jones magazine (August 2010), there is a one-page article, Get Behind Me, Seitan by Kiera Butler. It discusses veggie burgers and and how some contain hexane, an EPA registered air pollutant and suspected neurotoxin. Why do some of these burgers contain hexane? Well, producers want to make their burgers low in fact and the cheapest way to do so is to use hexane to remove the fatty sobyean oil.

A 2009 study by Cornucopia Institute, a sustainable-farming nonprofit, found that Boca, Morningstar Farms and Gardenburger and numerous other producers of veggie burgers used hexane. As an aside, hexane is also used in other natural soyfoods such as nutrition bars and protein shakes.

The report states: "Hexane is used to extract oil from grains such as corn, soy, and canola. It is a cost-effective and highly efficient method for separating whole soybeans into soy oil, protein, and fiber. In conventional food processing, soybeans are immersed in what the industry calls a “hexane bath” before they are further processed into ingredients such as oil, soy protein isolate, or texturized soy protein (TVP). The soy protein ingredients in most nonorganic foods such as vegetarian burgers and nutrition bars are processed with the use of hexane."

The EPA regulates hexane emissions because of potential carcinogenic properties and environmental concerns. It is worrisome though that the FDA does not monitor or regulate hexane residue in soy foods plus little research has been done on the potential dangerous effects of consuming hexane residues in food. The few, limited studies on rodents do seem to minimize any potential danger from hexane but more study is warranted.

What is important to realize that one needs to look beyond the surface of all foods, and especially processed foods, to ascertain any potential hidden dangers. A veggie burger might sound healthy on its face, but the processing it underwent may have tainted it. The same thing applies to foods that are labeled as "natural." Such items may not be as "natural" as you think as legal definitions and rules considering labeling grant much leeway in such matters. Just think carefully when you go shopping, and don't make assumptions based on appearances.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

Welcome to a new feature on my blog, Thursday Sips & Nibbles. This will be a semi-regular column where I briefly mention some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. Generally, these items will be too brief for their own article, but they are worthy of mentioning. They might include updates on previous items and places I have reviewed or news about upcoming restaurants, wine stores, or related food/wine places.

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1) Whenever I am dining near Boylston Street, it is very difficult to eat dessert at anywhere but La Patissier in Troquet. I have often raved about the exquisite creations of Pastry Chef Sarah Woodfine and every visit solidifies my feelings. I recently savored a new treat, the Plum & Ginger Napolean (pictured above), a towering treat that delighted my palate. There are sesame chips between the various layers which added a nice crunchy texture to the smooth and creamy fillings. Excellent presentation, delicious flavors and fresh fruit. I also got to taste the new Strawberry Souffle, and it was just as good as her other souffles, light and full of sweet flavor. If you have not eaten there yet, then what is wrong with you?

2) There is a new bakery in Melrose, the Busy Bee Bakery, located at One Hurd Street, across from the Wyoming Hill train station. Besides serving a variety of baked goods, they also serve both breakfast and lunch. I stopped by the other day and tried some of their cookies and cupcakes. I tasted their Snickerdoodles, Chocolate Chip and Double Chocolate cookies ($0.65 each). I have high standards for my Snickerdoodles and these actually did very well, a nice combination of crisp and soft, with a tasty cinnamon flavor. The other cookies also tasted very good, and seemed very fresh. The cupcakes did well too, and passed my moistness standard. Their icing was soft and creamy, and not too sweet. I see potential here and will return soon to check out more of their foods.

3) Melrose also has a new Thai restaurant, Spice Thai Kitchen, located at 454 Franklin Street. It is only take-out and delivery, and has quite a diverse menu, including some non-Thai items. I ordered some take-out the other day and it was pretty good. Not as good as Taste of Siam in Stoneham, but respectable food. I especially liked their Thai Ravioli and Siam Roti. I will be back to check out more of their dishes, especially some of the different ones such as Chiangmai Noodle and Thai Panang.

4) Continuing on the Melrose theme, Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet at 538 Main Street, is always adding new products so it is worth checking them out on a regular basis. They recently added Woodchuck Pear Cider which I have previously raved about. Plus, they have added a Local Wine section, showcasing wines made in New England. Currently they carry Turtle Creek and Black Dog, with more wines to come. It is always good to see wine stores supporting local wineries.

Bistro Blends: Gourmet Oils, Vinegars & More

While relaxing my palate after some wine tasting at the Boston Wine Expo, I stopped at the Bistro Blends table which had a couple dozen gourmet oils, vinegars, marinades and grill sauces available for sampling.

Bistro Blends was started by John Spenger, who once worked as a waiter at Scala's Bistro in San Francisco. He created a recipe for a zesty bread-dipper and it became very popular, customers even seeking to buy it though it was not for sale. Almost ten years later, Spenger decided to start selling it. He made the product by hand and sold them at local farmer's markets and gourmet food shows. His business boomed from there and Spenger no longer has to make it by hand or sell it himself. In fact, there is a network of distributors across the country selling all of the Bistro Blend products.

Most of the recipes were created by Spenger, with some input from his customers. The oil they use is cold-pressed, 100% extra virgin olive oil made from Arbequina olives and imported from Lerida, Spain. The vinegar is imported from Modena, Italy, from a small company comprised of three brothers and a sister.

They carry a full line of products, of numerous flavors, and which appear very versatile. I tried over a dozen of their products, including some oils, vinegars and marinades. Overall, I really enjoyed them, especially due to their rich flavors. Each product tasted like it was supposed to, with the flavors listed on the labels. In a blind taste test, you would likely be able to detect the flavors in most of the products due to their distinctiveness.

One of my favorites was their Basil Garlic Parmesan Oil ($22/375ml, $12/6oz), which was light and flavorful. It would be perfect for dipping bread, or atop a salad, or even over some pasta. The Hot Bistro Oil ($22/375ml, $12/6oz) served up on its name, with its initial spiciness leading to real heat on the finish, which remained with you for some time. I like heat so this oil appealed to me, and it is as versatile as the first oil. The Thai-Sesame Ginger Oil ($22/375ml, $12/6oz) is also compelling, with an Asian flair which would make it great for stir-fry or noodle dishes.

The Barrel-Aged Black Mission Fig Balsamic Vinegar ($22/375ml, $12/6oz) was rich, sweet, and had a strong fig taste. Another nice choice for salad dressing though would also be nice drizzled over a duck breast. The Rosemary Roasted Garlic Cabernet Marinade ($15/375ml, $8/6oz) was very garlicky, which I love, and the rosemary was very prominent too. This would certainly make for an excellent marinade for either chicken or beef. The Kentucky Bourbon BBQ & Grill Sauce ($11 12oz) was tasty, with strong flavors that would benefit a steak or even a burger.

These products are not cheap, but they are made with high end ingredients such as the balsamic vinegar. They are very flavorful, delicious and versatile. I do think you will enjoy them if you try them.

Throughout New England, Bistro Blends is distributed by:

Ginger and Mark Sargent
Phone: 603-269-2271
GingerandMark@bistroblends.com

Rabelais: Feed Your Mental Hunger

I am a man of many different passions. For one, I am a voracious reader and own a veritable library of books, an eclectic assortment of thousands of paperbacks and hardcovers. So when I travel, I love to check out bookstores, hoping to find something exciting and interesting. A week does not pass without me purchasing at least one, and usually several new books.

My passion for food and wine is also quite evident. So when you combine my love of books with my love of food and wine, you create something that ignites my passions. On my recent trip to Portland, Maine, I found a place which did exactly this, Rabelais Books. Located a short distance from Duck Fat, this bookstore is a "must stop" for any food and wine lover.

Rabelais Books, which opened in April 2007, is an independent book store owned by Don and Samantha Hoyt Lindgren. Both of them were working in the store when I visited and they both seemed very pleasant and personable. Rabelais has that intimate feel of many other independent bookstores.

The store stocks new, out of print, and rare books on food, wine, beer, spirits, farming, gardening and related topics. Samantha mentioned they were concerned how the large bookstore chains would display many books but for only a short time period. If you did not happen to see the book during this brief time, then you might never learn about it. Samantha and Don wanted to give a longer shelf life to some of those books, even those that were out of print, because they felt those books were interesting and that people would like to buy and read them, if they only knew about them.

Though the store is relatively small, it is still comfortably spacious and filled with plenty of books. The books are easy to check out and most of them are organized by subject. It is the kind of place you could easily spend a couple hours browsing all the selections. I am sure you will find titles here that you probably have not seen anywhere else. I certainly found many that were new to me.

I ended up buying several books, and probably would have bought even more if I had spent additional time browsing their shelves. The diversity of their selections is excellent, and I really love their idea of giving additional life to books that come and go too quickly at large chain bookstores. Plus, you have to appreciate the personal touch you find here, store owners doing it for the passion.

Check out their website for more information about the store, including a list of upcoming events as well as their own blog. I will certainly return here the next time I am in Portland and give it my highest recommendation. If you visit Portland, make sure to stop by.

Rabelais Books

86 Middle St.

Portland, ME

Phone: 207-774-1044

Catching Fire

What made us human? What helped to differentiate us from the rest of the animal kingdom? Anthropologists long have theorized that man truly began to change when he started eating meat, when he became a hunter. Yet that might not be an adequate explanation. It might not have been sufficient to truly transform man. What might have assisted the matter is "cooking."

This intriguing theory is outlined in Catching Fire: How Cooking Made Us Human by Richard Wrangham (Basic Books, May 2009, $26.95). Wrangham is the Ruth Moore Professor of Biological Anthropology at Harvard University and Curator of Primate Behavioral Biology at the Peabody Museum. So he is a local author. This hard cover book has 207 pages of text and over 40 pages of notes.

One of the chapters which most interested me was the first chapter, dealing with a comparison of raw food versus cooked food. There has been a raw food movement, extolling its virtues, though it does not appear to have caught on that much locally. This chapter though extolls the virtues of cooked food, pointing out the problems of raw food, countering some of the commonly cited advantages of raw food. I did not know that even animals grow faster when they eat cooked food.

Wrangham has written a compelling and fascinating case for his theory. Though well written, the book sometimes tends to get a little academic for a general reader, though very appropriate for the subject matter. It is thus not a book for a casual reader but if the subject matter intrigues you, then you'll find much of interest in it.

Coppa & Ken Oringer

Last week, James Beard Award-winning chef Ken Oringer announced plans to open his sixth Boston restaurant.

Coppa, which will be located in the city’s South End just six blocks away from his Barcelona-themed tapas bar Toro, is slated to open in late August as an Italian enoteca (wine bar). The Web site (www.Coppaboston.com) will be up soon.

Oringer and partner Jamie Bissonette, currently chef de cuisine @ Toro, are developing an Italianate menu of small plates, handmade pasta, pizzas, and the charcuterie and nose-to-tail cooking for which the two men are both renowned. Prices will be under $13.

Bissonette’s wife Courtney will run the front of the house, which holds just 40 seats indoors, plus 24 more on a brick patio outside. Italian wines and artisinal beers will be poured, and ingredients will be “as local and sustainable as humanly possible,” promises Oringer.

I am eagerly looking forward to this new restaurant, especially as I think Chef Bissonette has done some a great job at Toro. Plus, it looks like this will be a value restaurant too.

La Festival Gastronomico del Gato

In some places around the world, you might find a cat on your dinner plate. I don't think I could try cat meat, as I have had many cats as pets, and currently have two (which includes the cat in the photo above). Just a psychological thing. So I was a bit shocked to learn about a Peruvian cat eating festival.

In La Quebrada, a small Peruvian farming town south of Lima, they hold La Festival Gastronomico del Gato (the Gastronomic Festival of the Cat) on September 21. This festival is allegedly a commemoration of the original settlers, slaves, who once had to survive only on cat meat. Many of those black slaves had been brought to Peru to work on cotton plantations. The festival is also part of a celebration for Santa Efigenia, the town's patron saint.

The cats for the festival are supposed to come from special nurseries though some do allege cats may have been taken off the streets. About 100 cats are eaten at the festival, prepared in a wide variety of recipes such as Cat Stew, Milanese of Cat, and Grilled Cat with Huacatay. It is also claimed that cat meat helps respiratory problems and acts as an aphrodisiac. Forget oysters, go eat Fluffy.

Could you partake of cat meat? How about dog?

Icarus Closing: Final Specials

Icarus, the first restaurant to serve fine New England cuisine in this city’s South End, knows “when to hold ‘em and when to fold ‘em,” and will close its doors forever on July 1.

Like the mythological figure it was named after, Icarus took flight in 1978. Its young chef, Chris Douglass, was hailed as a pioneer for offering diners upscale New England cuisine in a neighborhood that was un-gentrified to say the least.

“Back then, people were less sophisticated about food; it was fine restaurants who introduced them to new tastes and ingredients,” said Douglass, who bought Icarus in 1999, and whose cooking has enjoyed four-star status and national acclaim for its early commitment to local sourcing and overall sustainability.

Today the Icarus neighborhood is home to a kaleidoscope of restaurants. The intense competition and the economy’s recent pinch to dining dollars, were challenges Douglass could not control. Instead, this beloved chef turns to a new neighborhood and a new dining direction for his next act.

Ever the pioneer for finding and feeding the residents of “under-served” neighborhoods, Douglass opened two casual, moderately-priced restaurants in (un-gentrified) Dorchester, MA. Ashmont Grill has been a runaway hit since it opened in 2006, and the Italian concept Tavolo followed in 2008. Both restaurants are located five miles away from the South End. The food is still sustainable and Zagat-worthy, and the sense of discovery and freshness in Dorchester reminds Douglass of his start.

“Eating out now is more about the basics,” said Douglass. “Sure, diners will always want good food, but with the proliferation of food magazines and TV shows, people no longer look to chefs to teach them about it. They just want a place to hang out.”

How to say goodbye to such an icon as ICARUS ? With a fork. For the month of June, ICARUS will present a prix fixe menu of signature dishes from the past 31 years for $31. An assortment of events and commemorations – like a kitchen alum night and a jazz night -- will be held over the next few weeks.

Chilmark Tavern: New Restaurant on Martha's Vineyard

Edgartown and Vineyard Haven here are chock full of restaurants, but those who venture to the far reaches of Martha’s Vineyard -- known as “Up Island” to the cognoscenti -- have few dining options.

Odd, given that each summer this remote section of the Vineyard becomes Hollywood East, with top show biz folks vacationing in luxurious homes secluded in the dunes: Meg Ryan, Bill Murray, Dan Akroyd, Jim Belushi, Larry David, Ted Danson and Mary Steenbergen and assorted screenwriters, directors and best-selling authors.

It is with a great anticipation, then, that Up Islanders welcome Chilmark Tavern to Beetlebung Corner in Chilmark.

Compounding the excitement is the arrival of Chilmark's executive chef, Paul O’Connell, whose acclaimed Chez Henri bistro in Cambridge, Massachusetts has racked up regional and national accolades for almost 15 years. O’Connell – leaving Chez Henri temporarily in the hands of his longtime chef de cuisine Mark Thompson – plans to open Chilmark Tavern at 9 State Road in late May.

Just weeks away from opening, new décor is being installed, staff is being trained, and O’Connell is testing the menu items he’ll be serving Up Islanders from late May until mid-October (like most island restaurants – service is seasonal).

“Chilmark Tavern will provide a laid-back atmosphere for gathering with friends,” says O’Connell. “Its simple, New England-style menu will combine locally-caught fish and shellfish with dishes created from the Vineyard’s bountiful farms. The concept I envision is Harvard Square’s Harvest meets Jasper White’s Summer Shack.”

Samples from the debut dinner menu include:
· New Bedford Style Baked Clams with sweetbreads and chorizo $15
· Ale-Braised Vealwurst with green tomatoes and brown bread $11
· Fulling Mill Farm Smoked Fish Platter $13
· Ceviche of Bay Scallops and Shrimp w/ avocado mousse, plantain chips $13
· Allen Farm Spring Lamb Two Ways $36
· Menemsha Harbor Catch of the Day MP
· Grilled NY Sirloin with Blue Cheese-Chive Butter $32
· Tuna Steak with Grapefruit BBQ Glaze and fennel-citrus salad $26
· Farm Cheese Tart with Lemon Cream and Blueberry Compote $9
· Passionfruit/Tangerine Creamsicle “Fribble” with sugar cookies $9

Like all Up Island establishments, Chilmark Tavern will be BYOB, with a variety of glassware and creative mixers available for those who do. Its raw honey/elderflower/ lemon elixir, for example, blends well with gin, cava or club soda. An abbreviated bar menu with quick fare like burgers and Cuban sandwiches will also be served.

The airy, 99-seat restaurant will serve dinner daily from 5:30 PM til 10 PM or later, and will accept reservations seven days a week. The restaurant is also accessible by the island’s convenient and reliable bus service.

I am a fan of Chef Paul O’Connell and Chez Henri so I expect his new endeavor will be just as good. If you are on the island this summer, it is well worth checking out the new Chilmark Tavern.

Food Allergy Law in MA

Do you have food allergies? If so, do you worry about those allergies when you dine out at a restaurant?

Though I don't have any food allergies, I know several people who do and they must be very careful when ordering strange food, wary that the dish may contain something that could set off their allergy. Well, some assistance has arrived for these people as a new food allergy law goes into effect this week. This is a landmark law, the first of its kind in the country.

According to the Food Allergy & Anaphylaxis Network (FAAN), over 12 million Americans have food allergies, about 3 million being children. It is estimated that food-related anaphylaxis results in about 150 deaths and over 50,000 hospital admissions each year. Most allergies involve ingredients such as soy, wheat/gluten, peanuts, tree nuts, dairy, fish, shellfish, and eggs. One of the most famous spokespersons for FAAN is the renowned Chef Ming Tsai, who was instrumental in getting the new allergy law passed.

For several years, Ming Tsai worked with Senator Cynthia Stone Creem (D - MA) to pass a bill to make restaurants safer for those with food allergies. This is especially important to Ming as he has a son with food allergies. Ming's work on education about food allergies has taken many forms and he is obviously proud of his success in getting this law passed.

This food allergy bill, Senate Bill 2701, was signed into law on January 15, 2009. Most of the law goes into effect 90 days after the signing (about April 15, 2009) though the menu requirement does not go into effect until January 1, 2010. The law requires restaurants to do three things, all of which Blue Ginger already does.

These requirements include:

1) Display an approved food allergy awareness poster in the restaurant staff area. Ming Tsai worked with FAAN to create these posters. Compliance with this requirement should be very easy for restaurants.

2) Place a notice on their menus of the customer’s obligation to inform the server about any food allergies. This is the requirement that does not go into effect until 2010. This will cost restaurants some money as they will have to print new menus, or at least add a sticker to existing menus to comply with this requirement.

I don't agree with the necessity for this requirement. This matter involves a rather obvious issue that should not need to be placed into print. If you have food allergies, you should, as a matter of course, inform your food servers about it. That is pure common sense so why the need to remind them?

3) Train food protection managers and persons in charge of restaurants on food allergy issues. This will also cost restaurants a bit for the additional training that is required for some of their employees. This requirement will be ultimately beneficial to the public, ensuring restaurants understand how to handle food allergy issues during preparation and cooking. Though I am sure many restaurants are aware of food allergy issues, it certainly can't hurt to ensure that all places have similar training.

There is another addition to the bill, which is not a requirement, that allows restaurants to earn a "Food Allergy Friendly" designation. Though all of the specific qualifications for this designation are still being written, one item has already been determined. A restaurant would have to produce a master list of all the ingredients used to prepare the food on their menu and that list would have to be made available to the public. This requirement was inspired by the “Food Bible” used at Blue Ginger.

I like the idea behind this designation, having the ability to know all of the ingredients behind any specific dish I might see on a menu. But I suspect that some restaurants may not seek out this designation, worried about giving away too much information on their "secret" recipes. As it is purely voluntary whether a restaurant seeks out this designation or not, I am curious as to how many restaurants, and which ones, eventually do apply for the designation.

What are your thoughts on this new law?

Sustainability Myths?

Right now, one of the most common buzzwords in the food world is "sustainability." And the most common mantra to following sustainability, is to "eat local." Yet resolving issues of sustainability is not that simple. Sustainability is a very complex topic and the solutions are equally as complex. We must avoid falling into the trap thinking that "eating local" will solve all of our problems.

To better understand this controversy, you might want to read a new article in Mother Jones (April 2009) titled Spoiled: Organic and Local Is So 2008 and written by Paul Roberts. Roberts is a journalist and author who writes and lectures often on "the complex interplay of economics, technology, and the natural world." His articles have appeared in a wide assortment of magazines and newspapers and he has also appeared on numerous television news shows. His two books include The End of Oil and The End of Food.

A good summary of the article is: "Nearly everyone agrees that we need new methods that produce more higher-quality calories using fewer resources, such as water or energy, and accruing fewer "externals," such as pollution or unfair labor practices. Where the consensus fails is over what should replace the bad old industrial system. It's not that we lack enthusiasm—activist foodies represent one of the most potent market forces on the planet. Unfortunately, a lot of that conscientious buying power is directed toward conceptions of sustainable food that may be out of date."

First, we should understand that Roberts is truly concerned about sustainability and the future of food in our world. But he questions whether some of the current solutions to our problems will be sufficient. In general, he feels some solutions won't work on the large scale while others focus too narrowly on a single issue or will only work in limited cases. What contributes to these problems is a desire by too many people for quick and easy solutions, ignoring the complexities of the issues.

For example, let us consider the issue of the carbon footprint of transporting food. Simply, it is thought that foods being transported for a greater distance have a larger carbon footprint than locally transported foods. Yet that is not always the case. For example, one large truck transporting a huge load of produce may generate less of a carbon footprint per item than dozens of smaller vehicles transporting small loads of produce. Even then, concerns about transportation may be greatly overinflated.

Roberts states that transportation only accounts for one-tenth of a food product's greenhouse gas emissions. So what is probably more important is how that food was produced, its "resource intensity." Some foods, including meat and cheese, require a significant number of resources, no matter where it is produced. Thus, by avoiding those foods, you can have a greater ecological impact. A 2008 report from the Carnegie Mellon University concluded that if you skipped meat and dairy for a single day each week, it would have more of an ecological benefit than if you ate locally every day.

Ever hear of poop miles? Roberts mentions how some organic producers, to cater to increased demand, have had to import manure, which might have come from quite a distance. Yet are those "poop" miles considered in the sustainability of that organic farm or its carbon footprint? Most people probably don't have a clue about this matter. These consumers may think they are doing well by buying local, yet the impact on the environment is much bigger than they realize.

As our society has grown more urban, it has led to the growth of the "industrial agribusiness model." It has also been due partly to our great population of about 6.7 billion people. Roberts believes that organic farming would have an extremely difficult time catering to those billions of people. Currently, industrial organic agriculture makes up less than 3% of the US food supply. Sustainable agriculture is possible, though it likely will require an expansion of the definition of sustainable practices. Eating local may be good in a number of ways but alone it is insufficient to cater to the entire's worlds needs, especially in areas like Asia and Africa.

Roberts calls for a more pragmatic and sensible approach to sustainability. We should not be seeking perfection, but rather start working now for practical approaches to alleviate our problems as well as possible. We must understand that sustainable food products constitute only about 2% percent of our food supply. A significant factor in this is that consumer demand remains relatively low. The immediate issue of the cost of sustainable foods often outweighs other concerns for these individuals.

This article raises many important and significant questions about sustainability. It also shows that the issue is far more complex than many people think. Plus, it indicates that far too many consumers are not concerned enough about sustainability, and that the price of food is an important reason for that mentality.

I have also been reading Roberts' book, The End of Food. It expands upon much which is within this article and I highly recommend it to anyone concerned about sustainability issues. Once I finish reading the book, I will do a full review of it in the near future.

Let us continue a dialogue about sustainability, to educate others about its significance. And let us not blindly follow a mantra of "eat local." Let us instead seek out sensible sustainability, measures that will help reduce our problems and which may have an enhanced chance of success.

Addendum 4/8/09: You might also want to check out an article in today's Boston Globe called Meat Me Halfway. It touches on a few of the issues in my post, including resource intensity, especially concerning meat.

BostonChefs.Com: New Design

Are you familiar with BostonChefs.com? If you want to know more about the Boston culinary scene, then you should check out this site, especially now that they have recently launched an expanded and renovated site. I use the site and find much of value there.

When BostonChefs.com originally was created, it was ahead of its time. Back in 1999, the Internet was rarely used for restaurant promotion. But BostonChefs founders Chris Botello and Chris Schiavone saw the potential of the Internet and knew that the local restaurant industry would benefit from a comprehensive website. Thus they created BostonChefs.com which is going ten years strong.

"The concept is simple: to showcase the area's finest eateries in an aesthetically pleasing format that is easy to digest. Each BostonChefs.com member is represented by an online portfolio that includes menus, mouthwatering food photography, and chef bios. In its News and Events section, BostonChefs.com has become a premier source for the scoop on everything from special promotions and wine tastings to cooking classes and charity events. Rounding out the site is the ability to make reservations online, a section of recipes from member chefs, and a handy food glossary."

The BostonChefs.com site was recently updated and expanded. I think it is now an even more useful and better designed site. I often check out the News & Events, looking for what local restaurants are up to, which special dinners and events are upcoming, and more. You can check out specific restaurants and find their menus, pictures of some dishes, information about the chef, and much more. You can also find recipes and culinary job listings. It is a dynamic site that is working to improve itself all the time.

President Paul Schiavone says: "BostonChefs.com is in an incredibly fortunate position and we're really excited about what's to come. In the short term, we'll be rolling out a variety of new features and content on our BostonChefs.com and CapeCodChefs.com sites; making the sites even more robust both in terms of content and functionality. In the longer term, we're looking beyond New England and hoping to bring our unique approach to covering the local dining scene to other metro markets with thriving, chef driven culinary cultures."

I recently attended a media event celebrating the tenth anniversary of BostonChefs.com as well as their new website. I was able to speak a bit with President Paul Schiavone who seemed genuinely interested in feedback concerning the site. He intently listened to comments and suggestions about the site. I felt confident that he truly cared about making the site the best that it could be.

Check out BostonChefs.com and keep updated on the cutting edge of Boston's restaurant scene.

Black Garlic

If you opened a bulb of garlic and the cloves looked like they do above, would you be worried? You can ease your mind as there is nothing wrong with this garlic. It is neither burned, diseased, rotted or spoiled. In fact, it is exactly the color it should be as it is Black Garlic, a hot new ingredient that is just starting to spread across the U.S. It has received plenty of recent attention and has been shown on television shows like Iron Chef and Top Chef. Discussions of this intriguing ingredient have also spread quickly across many food blogs.

I recently received some samples of black garlic from Black Garlic Inc., the only company in the U.S. currently producing it. The black garlic can be purchased online from Mondo Food, either as a 1.26 oz package ($3.30) containing two bulbs, or a 1 pound bag ($20) containing about 16 bulbs. I think this is a reasonable price for what you receive.

Black garlic is regular garlic that has undergone a special fermentation process which turns it a black color. Plus, the garlic becomes sweet with more muted garlic flavors. It seems almost like a soft, jelly-like piece of fruit. It is alleged that black garlic provides special health benefits, though I have been unable to locate any supporting medical evidence. Black garlic is supposed to have nearly twice as many antioxidants as raw garlic. Plus, it contains S-Allycysteine, which is supposed to help cancer prevention and fight cholesterol. Regular garlic does not contain S-Allycysteine.

Scott Kim, the CEO and inventor of Black Garlic Inc., began to create his product in South Korea in 2004. Black garlic is supposed to have a lengthy history in Korea and China. Scott eventually brought into the company John Yi, a longtime garlic producer. As to the secret as how black garlic is made, the company's website is vague, stating only the following: "It’s aged for a month in a special fermentation process under high heat, where it develops its darker color, softer texture, and sweeter taste."

I did a little investigation, seeking more information about the fermentation process. At the U.S. Patent & Trademark Office, I uncovered only a single patent application dealing with black garlic though it is unclear whether it involves Black Garlic, Inc. or not. Nonetheless, it provides a look into how black garlic may be created. The inventors are listed as Gyu-Bae Han, Inn-Hwan Song and Ki-Yeol Eom, all from Korea. The method involves aging the garlic with hot air for 14.5 days, then naturally drying the garlic pieces for about 40 hours, and then aging it again with hot air for another 30 to 50 hours. This process may be similar to what is used at Black Garlic, Inc.

So how does black garlic taste? My first foray with black garlic is pictured above. It is a panko-crusted tilapia with a black garlic sauce atop thin egg noodles. The sauce had butter, Sake, olive oil, teriyaki sauce and black garlic. It was quite good, the garlic adding a nice sweetness to the dish, complementing the flavor of the moist, white fish. Though there is an underlying garlic flavor, it is more subtle than what you get with regular garlic. And your breath does not take on the usual garlic smell either.

I also had a black garlic butter, smeared on some French bread which was briefly baked in the oven. Though it looks like it is burnt, it is not. It is just the black color of the garlic. This was not too bad but I think a better recipe for the butter could be created. It did add an interesting sweetness to the bread, though maybe a bit of spice or some herbs could have been added to balance off that sweetness. Plus, it does not look too appealing as is, looking too much like burnt bread.

I think black garlic is a versatile ingredient, which can be used in a wide variety of recipes. It will add a bit of sweetness to your receipes, but still with some garlic flavor. I'll be conducting some more culinary tests with the black garlic, trying different recipes, and I'll report back in the near future. I am initially very pleased with the black garlic and believe it has lots of potential.

Rolling Stone: People Reinventing America

Who are the people who are reinventing America, bringing change? Rolling Stone magazine (4/2/09 issue) answered that question, presenting 100 people who they felt were doing so. It is an interesting list that is sure to provide plenty of fuel for discussion and debate.

The article states: "This list is not necessarily about power in the old-fashioned sense but about the power of ideas, the power of innovation, the power of making people think and making them move." (p.49)

Some of the names are quite predictable, such as Barack Obama and Steve Jobs. Other names might be unfamiliar to the common person, like Shigeru Miyamoto, chief designer for Nintendo. What interested me though were the food-related individuals on the list, and only three such people made the list, including an author, chef and scientist.

First, at #69, is Michael Pollan, who is referred to as "The one-man think tank of the local-grown-foods movement." He is the author of such books you may have read as In Defense of Food: An Eater’s Manifesto and The Omnivore's Dilemma: A Natural History of Four Meals. His ideas have certainly percolated throughout the food community.

Second, at #78 is Chef David Chang, who is referred to as "The radical chef influencing everything from fast food to fine dining." and the "Keith Richards of food." He is the chef and owner of three New York City restaurants: Momofuku Noodle Bar, Momofuku Ko and Momofuku Ssäm Bar. Though I have not yet eaten at his restaurants, they are on my short list for my next visit to New York City. And I have only heard raves from those who have gone to his places. It is quite an honor to be the only chef on this list.

Lastly, at #93 is Wes Jackson, who is referred to as "Plant geneticist fights to avert a global food crisis." He is a leader in the sustainable agriculture movement and is working to modify certain plants like wheat and sorghum into perennials. I have not heard of Wes before though I am going to learn more about him. His work does sound fascinating.

So what do you think? Should these people be on the list? Are there other individuals in the food industry who belong on this list?