Rant: Restaurant Reviews Ignoring Deadly Service?

There's an aspect of restaurant service with the potential to kill millions of people. Despite its importance, almost no restaurant review addresses this issue. Why not? Shouldn't a review discuss such a vital element? How can we better protect those millions of people who are at risk?

Recently on Facebook, Jacqueline Church raised an intriguing question: "Can/should a restaurant be "top" if they get a potentially life-threatening thing like food allergen handling wrong AND dismiss it cavalierly?" Jacqueline has food allergies, along with about 15 million people, so this is a matter absolutely vital to her health. She has written numerous articles about food allergies, and also trains restaurants in allergy awareness and handling. Her question made me ponder the issue, and realize my own restaurant reviews fail to address this issue.

It is rare to see any restaurant review which addresses whether a restaurant properly handles food allergies or not. About the only time that happens is when the reviewer has food allergies so is particularly aware of that issue. How a restaurant handles allergy issues is an important aspect of service, yet it is part of service that has largely been ignored so far by most restaurant reviewers. To answer Jacqueline;'s question, I don't believe a restaurant can be considered one of the "top" or "best" if it screws up allergy handling.

If that is the case, then we need to consider whether restaurant reviews should routinely address this issue or not. First, numerous restaurant reviews have length limitations so it can be a challenge to include absolutely every relevant issue. Is this an issue so important that it should be included? Second, how many reviewers properly understand the issue of allergies and can accurately assess the situation at a restaurant? I'm willing to bet that many reviewers fail to grasp the complete situation and could use some education in this regard. Third, if most restaurant reviews ignore the issue of food allergies, where can people go for that information?

Though it would be beneficial for most restaurant reviews to address this issue, maybe a matter of such vital importance, a potential life threatening matter, would be better served by a different forum. Would you want to rely upon a single line in a published restaurant review mentioning that the restaurant handles allergies well? Or would you prefer a more detailed explanation of how the restaurant addressed food allergies? I think the latter would be far more useful.

Maybe a better solution would be to have a website dedicated to reviews of how restaurants handle food allergies. It would be better to have knowledgeable individuals discuss the specifics, to provide the necessary details for those at risk. There have been a few articles, published over the last few years, providing lists of restaurants which best handle food allergies, but I'm unaware of any central website that reviews Boston area restaurants about these matters. It would be great to see more articles in the future too, but there is still a need for such a central website.

Your thoughts?

Turner Fisheries: Gluten Free Dinner

Due to a surge in food allergies, responsible restaurants are working to ensure their patrons can safely dine, no matter what allergies they might possess. For example, celiac disease is an autoimmunue disorder, essentially an allergy to gluten though there are others, without celiac, who are also allergic to gluten. Gluten is a protein found in wheat, barley and other grains though it can also be found sometimes as a food additive. It seems to be a significant issue and dining out for such individuals can be a problem.

Fortunately, a number of local restaurants now offer gluten-free menus and a recent survey by the National Restaurant Association named Gluten Free Cuisine as one of the top ten trends for 2013. I recently dined at Turner Fisheries (as a media guest) to assess their gluten-free menu. I don't have a gluten allergy but was curious as to whether the various dishes would still possess compelling flavors, or if their gluten-free nature would diminish the taste. What would be the effect of the substituted ingredients? Someone with a gluten allergy might not be able to enjoy battered fish and chips but that doesn't mean they don't have other delicious options.

What are the differences between the Turner's regular menu and gluten-free menu? In fact, many of the dishes are similar with minor adjustments for gluten free. First, the two Soups are similar. Second, there are two less Starters, the Crispy Calamari and Jonah Crab Cake. Third, the three Salads are similar. Fourth, there is one less Starter, the Taylor Bay Scallop Meuniere. Fifth, there is one less Turner's Classics, the Baked Long-Line Scrod. Sixth, all of the Sides are similar. Seventh, only three of the six Dessert options are available gluten free, including Mocha Creme Brulee, Hot Chocolate Peppermint Semifreddo Float and Sorbet/Gelato.

As can be seen, there is little on the menu which cannot be prepared gluten-free except for the Dessert category. That might be an area where other restaurants also see a challenge and if so, it is an area where they need to create more tantalizing options. I have eaten gluten free cookies, brownies and other similar treats and if done well, they can be quite tasty and you would not even know they were gluten free.

Chef Armand Toutaint prepared a variety of seafood preparations for our dinner, showcasing just some of the possibilities of a gluten-free menu. He also came to our table to discuss the menu and answer our questions. Based on some prior research I did, there appears to be a potential issue of farmed fish being given feed that contains gluten. Some claim that such seafood can be tainted and cause problems to those with gluten allergies while others allege it is not the case. Chef Toutaint didn't know much about the issue and it might be an area that needs more study. If anyone knows more about this matter, I would like to hear about it.

The dinner began with a couple heaping platters of cracked/shucked shell fish, including Little Neck Clams, Rope-Grown Mussels, East Coast Oysters, Maine Lobster, Jonah Crab Claws, Gulf Shrimp, and Taylor Bay Scallops. A smorgasbord of simply prepared food sure to satisfy any shellfish lover, with or without gluten allergies.

Next up was a sampler of menu choices, including a Grilled Wellfleet Oyster (with a maitake mushroom riesling cream), Beet Carpaccio (with rainbow swiss chard, cider glaze, pistachio dust), Seared Diver Scallop (with a brandy black mission fig reduction & plantain chip), and a bowl of Clam Chowder. The chowder, thickened with rice flour, is absolutely delicious, creamy with a pleasant clam taste. It is neither too thick nor too thin, and doesn't suffer in the least for not possessing gluten. In fact, this is a clam chowder that stands as one of the best in the city.

As for the other dishes, the Scallop was perfectly seared with a tasty and lightly sweet reduction, as well as a crisp plantain chip. It was my second favorite of the four. The briny oyster was covered by a flavorful cream with hints of umami from the mushrooms. As I am not a fan of beets, I didn't eat the Beet Carpaccio but those who like beets seemed to greatly enjoy that preparation.

We next received a sampling of entrees including Rockport Merluza Filet ($28), Lobster Thermidor (Market Price) and Grilled Salmon ($29).

The Lobster Thermidor is prepared with a cured tomato hollandaise and gruyere cheese, quite a rich and decadent preparation. A good-sized piece of sweet lobster tail meat with nutty elements from the cheese and umami elements from the tomato. You are not missing any flavor in this gluten free dish and it would appeal to everyone who loves lobster.

The Rockport Merluza Filet (merluza is also known as hake) is made with Pernod, crispy bacon, and creamed brussel sprouts. A slightly sweet white fish, with a firmer (yet still flaky) texture, and a salty element from the bacon. A nice substitute for cod or haddock. Another delicious choice.

The Grilled Loch Duart Salmon is prepared with roasted garlic, baby potatoes, and wild mushrooms. Salmon is a delicious fish, with its firm, meaty texture and the sauce enhanced its rich taste. The mushrooms also added an umami element and the crisp potatoes were a nice addition.

For dessert, we had Mocha Creme Brulee ($8), which is similar to the usual brulees you can have at most restaurants. It is good but nothing really exciting. The dessert options are the weakest part of the gluten free menu.

Overall, Turner Fisheries has crafted an impressive gluten free menu and the savory items should satisfy most any craving. The dishes do not lack in taste in any way and are as creative as anything on the regular menu. I would like to see more unique gluten free dessert options but with all of the savory options, you might not have room for dessert anyways.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) As Americans pay tribute to the beef patty on May 28th for National Hamburger Day, local restaurants will be shelling out their best renditions to join the celebration.

Cuffs-An Irish Bar
The Back Bay Hotel, 350 Stuart Street, Boston
Phone: 617-266-7200
Cuffs is now serving up two variations on their new spring menu available by day and late into the night. Guests can toast the holiday with the Sirloin Burger (caramelized onion, mushrooms, choice of cheese - $13) or Cheeseburger Sliders (Cashel Blue, Irish cheddar and Manchego - $11).

Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar
217 Stuart Street, Boston
Phone: 617-292-0808
Choose from Fleming’s Prime Burger (cheddar cheese, peppered bacon - $12; $6 before 7pm nightly); Sliced Filet Mignon Burger (sautéed mushrooms, Béarnaise sauce - $18); Jumbo Lump Crab Cake Burger (creamy mustard sauce - $16); Ahi Tuna Burger (soy ginger sauce - $12); and, Portobello Mushroom Burger (sautéed spinach, creamy goat cheese - $10). All Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar’s options come with signature onion rings and a mini wedge salad.

Legal Sea Foods
All locations
The chefs at Legal Sea Foods are cooking up an ‘al-tuna-tive’ for fish lovers to partake in the celebration. The Tuna Burger is made from freshly ground tuna with chili paste, crumbs and spices ($13.95). Legal Sea Foods also serves up a Niman Ranch Burger, 10 oz. hand packed all natural beef ($10.95).

Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake
384 Boylston Street, Boston
Phone: 617-859-7772
Executive Chef Brian Poe is now dishing out a burger that celebrates his namesake: Poe Burger (Kobe beef burger stuffed with lobster, foie gras and black truffles served with house-cured whiskey bacon, avocado and Irish porter cheese on brioche - $18.75).

Towne Stove and Spirits
900 Boylston Street, Boston
Phone: 617-247-0400
Co-Culinary Director Lydia Shire and Executive Chef Mario Capone offer a version on their all-day bar menu. Available in the Street Lounge, The Mini Burger is comprised of 70/30 skirt and shortrib and is served with chips ($11).

2) May is designated National Celiac Awareness Month, and Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar wants those who have celiac disease (CD) to enjoy a meal out without the concern over their dietary restrictions.

“As the executive chef of Fleming’s, I take our guests’ dietary needs as seriously as they do,” says Fleming’s Executive Chef Russell Skall. “This is why we have such an extensive gluten-free menu without a lot of substitutions required. We want our guests to experience what eating at Fleming’s is all about by enjoying all of the great flavors offered with our appetizers, salads, entrees, sides and tempting desserts. Because we make everything from scratch, our chefs can ensure that every meal is the best it can be,” he adds.

Fleming’s offers guests a gluten-free menu which is also available online. Upon arrival at the restaurant, guests are advised to tell their servers that they are ordering gluten-free. Numerous appetizers can be ordered as they are indicated on the menu, such as the shrimp cocktail, butternut squash soup, cream of asparagus soup and lobster bisque. Other dishes can be customized for a gluten free experience. Appetizers like the tenderloin carpaccio, wicked Cajun barbeque shrimp and seared ahi tuna can be ordered without croutons, bread or mustard sauces to make the dish gluten-free. Most salads may be ordered without croutons; while others such as the lobster Cobb and filet mignon Cobb can be made gluten-free by removing the puff pastry and substituting the dressing (all salad dressings are gluten-free except the red onion balsamic dressing).

Dinner entrees like Australian lobster, tuna mignon, Alaskan king crab and any of the meat selections can be ordered as is for a gluten-free meal. Other seafood dishes like the barbeque Scottish salmon filet and the seared scallops can be adjusted for guests with a gluten-free diet.  On the dinner menu, gluten-free sides include baked potato, Fleming’s potatoes, green beans, mashed potatoes, sautéed spinach, sautéed mushrooms and grilled asparagus.  Fleming’s even has several gluten-free deserts: crème brûlée, mixed berries with whipped cream and vanilla ice cream with raspberry or fudge sauce.

3) On Saturday, May 14th, from 1pm-6pm, the Wine ConneXtion, located in North Andover, is hosting its annual complimentary Grand Tasting. Featuring food paired by Tommy Grella of the Next Food Network Star, the Wine ConneXtion will be pouring more than 50 exclusive, hand-selected wines from all over the world. Topping it all off, the Wine ConneXtion will offer preferred wines such as Malbecs, Amarones and unique grape varietals at a special, one-day discounted price. Guests are invited to taste a wide selection of new wines while perusing some great deals.

RSVP: Tasting is complimentary and open to the public, 21+ only.

Dietary Advice Needed

I am now requesting some assistance from my readers, seeking your advice on an important matter.  A close family member is currently undergoing a very restrictive diet and I am seeking some suggestions and recommendations that will help him deal with this diet.

He may not eat any food products that contain the following: wheat, dairy, corn, peanuts, tree nuts, egg, soy, fish, shellfish and beef. Yes, that is quite a list!  That would be a hard list to follow for any person.  

So, I am hoping some of my readers could offer some suggestions.  Where are the best places to shop for food products meeting those restrictions?  I would prefer locations that are within a range of 15-20 miles north of Boston.  Can you recommend specific products or brands?  Today, I visited the Natural Food Exchange in Reading, and did find some foods, but am unfamiliar with the brands so don't know which tastes the best.

Do you have any suggested recipes? Are there any websites which would be good to check out? Any help you can give would be much appreciated.

Burtons Grill: Gluten Free Wine Dinner

Are you or a loved one part of over 3 million Americans who suffer from celiac disease or gluten intolerance? Have you ever had to forgo social occasions or dining events because of a gluten allergy?

On Monday, June 7, at 6:30pm join Burtons Grill of North Andover and Healthy Villi, the largest local support and educational group for celiac disease, for a specially prepared four-course gluten free wine dinner customized to those suffering from gluten intolerance. Friends and families can enjoy a selection of menu items such as the Bronzed Halibut with Mango Salsa or the Chicken Milanese served over gluten free Spaghetti Primavera.

Pair your four-course delight with specially chosen wines by Martignetti Wine Company that will compliment each food selection. A representative will be on hand to discuss each wine pairing. At the price of $59.95 per person or $39.95 without the wine pairings (tax and gratuity is included for both), this intimate experience will please any palate, gluten intolerant or not!

The Menu is:

First Course
Spinach Salad served with fresh Goat Cheese
Wine: Montinore Pinot Gris (Willamette Valley, OR)

Second Course
Gazpacho (Chilled tomato vegetable soup)
Wine: Mas de la Dame Rose (Provence, France)

Third Course
Bronzed Halibut served with Mango Salsa
Wine: Zaca Mesa Viognier (Santa Barbara, CA)

OR

Chicken Milanese served over Spaghetti Primavera
Wine: Trinchero Pinot Noir (Napa Valley, CA)

Fourth Course
Chocolate Torte
*Complimentary coffee, cappuccino or espresso

Reservations are necessary; please call 978-688-5600.

Burtons Grill
145 Turnpike Street
North Andover, MA
Phone: 978-688-5600

Food Allergy Law in MA

Do you have food allergies? If so, do you worry about those allergies when you dine out at a restaurant?

Though I don't have any food allergies, I know several people who do and they must be very careful when ordering strange food, wary that the dish may contain something that could set off their allergy. Well, some assistance has arrived for these people as a new food allergy law goes into effect this week. This is a landmark law, the first of its kind in the country.

According to the Food Allergy & Anaphylaxis Network (FAAN), over 12 million Americans have food allergies, about 3 million being children. It is estimated that food-related anaphylaxis results in about 150 deaths and over 50,000 hospital admissions each year. Most allergies involve ingredients such as soy, wheat/gluten, peanuts, tree nuts, dairy, fish, shellfish, and eggs. One of the most famous spokespersons for FAAN is the renowned Chef Ming Tsai, who was instrumental in getting the new allergy law passed.

For several years, Ming Tsai worked with Senator Cynthia Stone Creem (D - MA) to pass a bill to make restaurants safer for those with food allergies. This is especially important to Ming as he has a son with food allergies. Ming's work on education about food allergies has taken many forms and he is obviously proud of his success in getting this law passed.

This food allergy bill, Senate Bill 2701, was signed into law on January 15, 2009. Most of the law goes into effect 90 days after the signing (about April 15, 2009) though the menu requirement does not go into effect until January 1, 2010. The law requires restaurants to do three things, all of which Blue Ginger already does.

These requirements include:

1) Display an approved food allergy awareness poster in the restaurant staff area. Ming Tsai worked with FAAN to create these posters. Compliance with this requirement should be very easy for restaurants.

2) Place a notice on their menus of the customer’s obligation to inform the server about any food allergies. This is the requirement that does not go into effect until 2010. This will cost restaurants some money as they will have to print new menus, or at least add a sticker to existing menus to comply with this requirement.

I don't agree with the necessity for this requirement. This matter involves a rather obvious issue that should not need to be placed into print. If you have food allergies, you should, as a matter of course, inform your food servers about it. That is pure common sense so why the need to remind them?

3) Train food protection managers and persons in charge of restaurants on food allergy issues. This will also cost restaurants a bit for the additional training that is required for some of their employees. This requirement will be ultimately beneficial to the public, ensuring restaurants understand how to handle food allergy issues during preparation and cooking. Though I am sure many restaurants are aware of food allergy issues, it certainly can't hurt to ensure that all places have similar training.

There is another addition to the bill, which is not a requirement, that allows restaurants to earn a "Food Allergy Friendly" designation. Though all of the specific qualifications for this designation are still being written, one item has already been determined. A restaurant would have to produce a master list of all the ingredients used to prepare the food on their menu and that list would have to be made available to the public. This requirement was inspired by the “Food Bible” used at Blue Ginger.

I like the idea behind this designation, having the ability to know all of the ingredients behind any specific dish I might see on a menu. But I suspect that some restaurants may not seek out this designation, worried about giving away too much information on their "secret" recipes. As it is purely voluntary whether a restaurant seeks out this designation or not, I am curious as to how many restaurants, and which ones, eventually do apply for the designation.

What are your thoughts on this new law?