Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  On Thursday, October 27, The Beehive is celebrating the colorful Mexican holiday of Día de los Muertos (Day of the Dead) with food, libations, skulls, skeletons, alters, dance and live music by Grupo Fantasia.

"Dia de los Muertos is a traditional Mexican holiday dedicated to ancestors and the cycle of life. Neighbors gather to share food, music, and fun with their extended community, both living and departed. The celebration acknowledges that we still have a relationship with our ancestors and loved ones that have passed away. Dia de los Muertos is not at all scary, spooky or somber but fun and festive for adults and children alike."

Latin band, Grupo Fantasia, takes to the stage from 9pm-1am. Headed by master percussionist Angel Wagner, Grupo Fantasia provides traditional Latin entertainment including everything from Cuban, Dominican merengue, Puerto Rican bomba and plena, to Colombian cumbia, Mexican mariachi, calypso, reggae and Salsa, all performed on original, handmade instruments.

In addition to their regular menu, The Beehive will serve several traditional dishes such as Apple-Tequila Guacamole with Tortilla Chips ($11), Chicken with Pumpkin Mole ($22), Braised Short Ribs in Adobe ($23) and Grilled Shrimp Tacos with Green Salsa ($24), and The Beehive’s Pan de Muertos ($8) or “Bread of the Dead." In celebration of Mexico's Day of the Dead, this bread is often shaped into skulls or round loaves with strips of dough rolled out and attached to resemble bones.

WHEN: Thursday, October 27, live music from 6:30pm-1am; food & drink from 5pm-2am
COST: No cover charge, cash bar

2)  Yankee Magazine Lifestyle Editor Amy Traverso has just launched her new cookbook, “The Apple Lover’s Cookbook”. Amy is joining MET Back Bay Culinary Director Todd Winer and ReadBoston to host “The Apple Lovers Cookbook” dinner at MET Back Bay on November 1st. Chef Winer has worked with Amy to create a multi-course dinner featuring Fall sweet and savory dishes. The evening will begin at MET Back Bay Townhouse with a cocktail reception and book signing at 6:30 pm followed by dinner in the Ballroom at 7:30. Proceeds from this event will be donated to ReadBoston.

The menu includes:
--A Selection of Apple Inspired Passed Appetizers
--First Course: Apple, Pistachio, Persimmon & Pomegranate Salad, Shaved Ginger Gold Apples, Wild Arugula & Black Pepper Honey Dressing
--Second Course: Berkshire Pork Belly & Mini Pork Apple Pies; Slowly Braised Belly In Cider, Calvados And Prunes With A Mini Savory Pie Stuffed With Cheddar, Pork And Apples
--Intermezzo: Green Apple Sauvignon Blanc Sorbet
--Third Course: Apple- Pear Cobbler, Lemon-Cornmeal Biscuit, Apple Ginger Snap Ice Cream, Cider Rum Caramel
--Apple Petit Fours

Tickets for the event are $95 and include a meet-and-greet cocktail reception with author Amy Traverso and ReadBoston, a copy of “The Apple Lover’s Cookbook”, and a multi-course seated dinner. Tickets can be purchased by calling 617-267-0451.

3)  October 24th marks Food Day. Modeled on Earth Day, Food Day is a national celebration with an agenda – to promote healthy, affordable food produced in a sustainable, humane way. Legal Harborside will whip up a special three-course prix fix lunch or dinner to honor the day including the following:

Appetizer
Fall Green Salad (Sky Vegetables greens, pears, spiced walnuts, Great Hill blue cheese vinaigrette)
Entree
Local Sautéed Grey Sole (Slab bacon, braised Verrill Farm’s collard greens, fire roasted squash)
Suggested wine pairing: Domaine Zind-Humbrecht “Clos Windsbuhl” Riesling, Alsace, 2006, $55 per bottle
Biodynamically farmed with rich, ripe apple, peach and mineral notes
Dessert
Tarte Tatin (Honey Pot Hill Orchards apples, crème fraiche ice cream)
Suggested wine pairing: Konrad “Sigrun” Noble Riesling, Marlborough, 2002, $8.50 per glass/$32.00 per half bottle. Sustainably farmed with luscious, sweet apricot and honey flavor

COST: Three-course prix fixe: $37.95 per person (includes tax and gratuity)

4)  AKA Bistro, in Lincoln, has recently named Damien Brockway as their new Chef de Cuisine. Damien, another alumni of the kitchen at Clio, hails from Norwalk, Connecticut and has over a dozen years of professional experience in French and new American cooking. He most recently worked in San Francisco at One Market, and has also worked at Salts in Cambridge, The Old Inn on the Green in New Marlboro, and 2-3 other highly rated restaurants in New England. He holds a culinary degree from the Culinary Institute of America in Hyde Park, New York. Damien is also a certified arborist, and enjoys foraging and rock climbing when not cooking.

Brockway has added the following dishes to the new fall menu:
* Tartlette Savoyarde (with roasted garlic, raclette cheese and foraged mushrooms)
* Loup de Mer (sea bass) with Belgian endive, roasted potato, salsify and cress
* Seared Duck Breast with braised red cabbage, rutabaga, hibiscus and cocoa nibs
* 13 oz. Cote de Beouf Bordelaise with cauliflower gratin

In addition, Executive Chef & Co-owner Chris Chung is debuting some new offerings:
* BBQ Hiramasa Sashimi (Australia kingfish) with hibiscus, smoked foam and pickled baby leeks
* Scallop Sashimi with preserved lemon puree, jalapeno-daikon granite’
* AKA Fried Rice with Rib Eye Cap, seasonal seafood and farm vegetables

I have dined at AKA Bistro since Chef Brockway has been appointed, and the quality of their food has not diminished in the least. I have not tried their new fall items yet but they certainly sound appealing. AKA Bistro remains one of my favorite suburban restaurants.

AKA Bistro also has some special events planned for the next coming months. On November 2, at 6:30pm, Peter Lovis, proprietor of The Concord Cheese Shop, will host a discussion and tasting of almost 20 (primarily French) cheeses. After tasting the cheeses in their natural states, diners will be served five cheese-based courses with wines to match, ranging from Warm Herbed Goat Cheese and Greens with Sancerre, to a quartet of bleu cheeses . The cost is $85 per person and you must call 781-259-9920 for reservations.

5)  On November 2nd, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods at the Prudential Center will host a South African wine dinner, part of their ongoing celebration of the region that boasts a 350+ year history of winemaking. From October 31st to November 27th, participating Legal Sea Foods locations will offer an exclusive wine list affording an opportunity to enjoy the distinct and delicious flavors of South African wines. This special three-plus course wine dinner will be hosted by Wendy Appelbaum, owner of De Morgenzon Estate.

The menu will be presented as follows:

Hors d'Oeuvres
Selection of Raw Oysters and Ceviche
Raats Family “Original” Chenin Blanc, Coastal Region, 2010
First Course
Fried Mussels
Celery, Fennel, and Shiitake Mushroom Salad with Harissa Dressing
Buitenverwachting Sauvignon Blanc, Constantia, 2010
Second Course
Pistachio and Caper Crusted Salmon
Braised Escarole, Cured Lemon, Chorizo Oil
and Cannellini Beans
De Morgenzon “DMZ” Chardonnay, Western Cape, 2010
De Morgenzon Chenin Blanc, Stellenbosch, 2009
Third Course
Coffee and Vin Cotto Glazed Short Ribs
Caramelized Apples and Buttermilk Mashed Potatoes
De Morgenzon “DMZ” Shiraz, Western Cape, 2008
Kanonkop Pinotage, Stellenbosch, 2009
Dessert Course
Bananas Foster Bread Pudding
Klein Constantia "Vin de Constance," Constantia, 2006

COST: $75 per person (excludes tax and gratuity)
Reservations required by calling: 617-266-6800

6)  Galloping into town for the second year running this November is the “Horsing Around at the Ritz” Gala benefiting The BiNA Farm, a philanthropic endeavor of Coryn Bina and her husband Babak Bina, co-owner of Lala Rokh, Bin 26 Enoteca and BiNA osteria. A non-profit organization aiding children with cognitive, physical, psychological and developmental challenges, The BiNA Farm provides Equine Assisted Activities & Therapies (EAAT) and integrated programs focused on life skills, music, art, gardening and nature, among many others.

§ Presentation by children from The BiNA Farm’s program, with special video messages from Cam Neely of the Boston Bruins and Senator Scott Brown.

§ Live and silent auction items with proceeds ensuring that children with special needs from all walks of life reap the benefits of The BiNA Farm’s programs through scholarship funding.

§ Remarks from Honorary Chair Keith Lockhart of The Boston Pops.

WHO: The BiNA Farm Founders Babak & Coryn Bina and Terry Snow; Master of Ceremonies
Kim Khazei of Channel 7 News; The BiNA Farm Honorary Chairs Keith & Emiley Lockhart; and The BiNA Farm Board of Directors, including Dr. Barry Zuckerman, Chief of Pediatrics at Boston Medical Center, and Patty Ribakoff, Co-Chair of Mass General Hospital’s philanthropy program.
WHEN: Saturday, November 12, at 6:30 p.m.
COST: Individual Tickets: $250
Reserve Champ (two tickets): $500
Grand Champ (10 tickets): $2,500
World Champ (10 tickets): $5,000
WHERE: The Ritz-Carlton, Boston Common, 10 Avery Street, Boston

7)  On November 2nd, from 7pm-9pm, Stanley Cup champion Shawn Thornton will host a wine social at Towne Stove and Spirits in the Back Bay to benefit the American Society for Prevention of Cruelty to Animals (ASPCA). Joined by his teammates and their significant others, Thornton and his crew will turn the tables and introduce various wine and beer selections alongside hors d’oeuvres by Culinary Director Lydia Shire. Supporters will also enjoy a silent auction and raffle while mingling with Boston’s latest golden team in a relaxed setting.

COST: $50 per ticket (proceeds benefit the ASPCA and include complimentary wine, beer and hors d’oeuvres)
TICKETS: Contact Sports Identity at 617-744-5423.

Voodoo Vintners: Biodynamic Wines

"I have an emotional response to the very best wines. Like the very best books and films, they make me weep."
--Katherine Cole.

According to the Biodynamic calendar, today is a "Flower" day, which means that it is supposed to be a good day to drink wine. In addition, if you drink a wine today, it should show more floral and perfume characteristics rather than fruit flavors. But, as I have mentioned before, I am skeptical of certain aspects of Biodynamics, particularly the more esoteric elements such as which days are supposedly better to drink wine.

The first official event of my Portland press trip was a Welcome Reception, which included a wine tasting with Katherine Cole, the author of Voodoo Vintners: Oregon's Astonishing Biodynamic Winegrowers ($18.95). Her book is a 182 page, trade paperback that was published by Oregon State University Press in June 2011. It is a very approachable look at Biodynamics, especially as it is practiced by wineries in Oregon.

Katherine is a wine columnist for The Oregonian newspaper and MIX magazine, and her work has been published in other periodicals as well. She holds degrees from Harvard College and the Columbia University Graduate School of Journalism. I found Katherine to be very personable, knowledgeable and passionate about wine. For the tasting, Katherine chose six Biodynamic and organic wines from Oregon (and one from Washington) for us to try, and I had the chance to chat with her a bit during the reception. Near the end of the event, Katherine also gave me a review copy of her book, which I had not read yet though it was on my list of books which I wanted to check out.

Oregon has a long history of sustainable agriculture and is even the center for Demeter USA, the Biodynamic certification organization. Interestingly though, only about 5% of Oregon vineyards are certified Biodynamic, and there may be only another 1.5% which practice Biodynamic agriculture yet are not certified. So, it is still a fringe practice, though continuing to slowly increase each year. In addition, Oregon probably has a higher proportion of Biodynamic vineyards than any other U.S. wine region. Most of the Biodynamic practitioners in Oregon do not embrace its more esoteric elements, generally remaining more practical, but there are exceptions.

I enjoyed Voodoo Vintners and felt that it was an easy and engaging read, accessible to wine lovers of all knowledge levels. Biodynamics can be a very confusing topic (just try reading one of Nicolas Joly's books) but Katherine presents it in a manner that is easily understood by all. She covers the history of Biodynamics, including its use in Burgundy, and also presents fascinating stories of numerous Oregonian wine makers. These tales add to the enjoyment of this book.

For example, you'll learn of Moe Momtazi, an Iranian who had studied civil engineering and eventually fled his own country after Khomeni came to power.  Moe ended up in Oregon and decided to establish a winery, recalling memories of his grandfather and father who had made wine when he was a youth. "Moe" is even a Persian term which means "grape leaf" or "grape vine."  You'll read about Kevin Chambers of Resonance Vineyards who uses a "radionic field broadcaster," also called a "cosmic pipe," in his vineyard. You'll also discover Dr. Robert Gross, a physician who owned an Oregon winery and was the first to practice Biodynamics. Even if you are not as interested in Biodynamics, the tales of these wine makers and others are likely to appeal to you.

Katherine tries to present a more balanced view of Biodynamics, alternately praising certain elements while being skeptical of other aspects. Though, it seems that her positives outweigh the negatives.  It is obvious she has great respect for those vineyard owners taking the more difficult task, seeking a closer connection to the natural world. She also delves into the complexities of Rudolf Steiner, both the positive and negative, while tracing elements of Biodynamics to the Paleolithic era. The book is unlikely to persuade anyone of the efficacy of Biodynamics, but that is not its intent. It is more an overview of the topic, combined with compelling stories about local winemakers. It succeeds very well at that goal and is a very worthy read.

If you have an interest in Biodynamics or Oregon wines, check out Voodoo Vintners.

The six wines poured at the reception, and chosen by Katherine, were from Brick Yard Vineyards, Francis Tannahill, and Johan Vineyards. My two favorites of the evening were both from Francis Tannahill, a winery founded in 2001 by Cheryl Francis and Sam Tannahill, both accomplished wine makers. For this endeavor, they purchase their grapes, and not all of those grapes are Biodynamic though they do strive for at least organic and sustainable grapes. In addition, they source some of their grapes from Washington.

The 2008 Francis Tannahill Dragonfly Gewürztraminer ($20-$25) is produced with fruit from the Dragonfly Vineyard located in White Salmon, Washington. The vineyard was planted in 1962 and may be the oldest Gewürztraminer in the Northwest region.  The five acre vineyard is organic and only 373 cases of this wine were produced. The nose of this wine was very compelling, strong and aromatic, and its taste was a complex melange of exotic spice and tropical fruit. It was dry, well balanced, and possessed a lengthy and pleasing finish. A superb example of Gewürztraminer.

The 2008 Francis Tannahill The Hermit Pinot Noir (about $40) is a blend of Pinot grapes from several different Willamette Valley vineyards. It is very Burgundian in style, with earthiness on both the nose and palate. It is a more elegant and complex wine with subdued red fruit flavors, good acidity and a long and satisfying finish. This is my preferred style of Pinot Noir and I think they produced an excellent wine, which I would highly recommend.  

To accompany the wine, there was a delicious cheese from Pholia Farm, which was made from Nigerian Dwarf goat milk. Pholia is a small family farm, which uses solar power, and they produce only goat related  products. Nigerian Dwarf goats are a newer breed, different from Pygmy goats, and have only been recognized by the American Goat Society since the 1980's. The Nigerian goats produce more milk than Pygmys, are easier to breed and make for a tame pet. This is the first time I have had a cheese made from this milk and it was compelling. We tasted their Takelma, a semi-soft, raw milk goat cheese that had been aged for 70-90 days and the rind had been washed with annatto. It had a nice creamy texture with a bit of a grassy/herbal taste.

"But I hope this book also expresses my admiration of all the Oregonians who toil in the vineyard and tinker in the cellar, no matter what style of winegrowing they are practicing."
--Katherine Cole.

All About Oregon & Portland

(Updated November 2013)

Portland, Oregon is an impressive destination if you enjoy food, wine, beer, spirits and/or sake. No matter what your preference, you are likely to find something to appeal to you.  Portland has embraced the local movement, and you will find many artisan producers, creating some amazing food and drinks. Portland can be quirky, atypical and different, and those are all compliments. I have sampled some of the bounty they have to offer and am eager to return, to revisit some of my favorites as well as to check out places and producers I was unable to previously visit.

In September 2011, I had the fortunate opportunity to visit Portland on a food and wine press trip, which was sponsored by Travel Oregon. Around twenty or so writers and bloggers participated on this trip, though we sometimes split into several different groups for varied activities. I dined at restaurants such as Ping, sampled the delights of Voodoo Donuts, and enjoyed the culinary acumen of Chef Vitaly Paley. I drank wines, including many Pinot Noirs,  from numerous wineries such as Ayres Vineyard, Eyrie Vineyards, Bethel Heights Vineyard, and Penner-Ash Wine Cellars. In addition, I learned how to make chocolate candy from Xocolatl de David and Arrowhead Chocolates, as well as how to make Paté from Chop Butchery & Charcuterie. It was an exciting, fun and varied weekend.

After the press trip ended, I stayed an extra couple days to further explore Portland on my own. For example, I attended the Pinot in the City event, which showcased many local wineries as well as some local food vendors. But the main reason I stayed the extra time was so that I could visit the SakeOne Brewery, a "must see" for a Sake lover such as I. It was a worthy visit and I will be writing about it in the near future. In addition, I visited a couple izakayas, drink plenty of Sake, and meet other Sake lovers. I packed plenty of activity into a short time, and still only scratched the surface of what Portland has to offer. It is a destination I highly recommend to all food and drink lovers.

To be helpful to my readers, I will compile the links to my Portland, Oregon related posts from this trip in a single place. This post will be that repository, and as such will be constantly updated when I write another article about Portland. The posts will be listed in chronological order, from oldest to newest

Disgorging Sparkling Wine With Rollin Soles of Argyle Winery
Voodoo Vintners: Biodynamic Wines 
Pok Pok & Ping: Chef Andy Ricker 
Portland Donuts, Cupcakes, Pies & More 
Pioneers of Oregon Wine 
Portland Ice Cream, Salt, Chocolate & More 
Spirits & Cocktails in Portland, OR  
Portland Is For Sake Lovers: Miho & Zilla 
Oregon Wine: The New Generation 
Chocolate, Charcuterie & Olive Oil in Portland, OR 
SakeOne: Craft Sake in Oregon

I returned to Oregon and Portland in September 2013 as part of a journalist trip sponsored by the Oregon Wine Board. This time, I got to spend time in Southern Oregon before journeying to the Willamette Valley and Portland. As I did from my prior trip, I will compile the links to my posts about this second trip here. The posts will be listed in chronological order, from oldest to newest

Sugar Mamas' Cafe: Cinnamon Roll Paradise
Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 1)
Ten Things You Should Know About Southern Oregon (Part 2)
Del Rio Vineyards: From Pears to Grapes, via the Loire
Folin Cellars & God, King, Slave: Young Winemakers & Experimentation
Kriselle Cellars: From Engineer To Winemaker
Sake, Portland & Gordon Heady
Cowhorn Vineyards: A Biodynamic Choice
Abacela Vineyards: A Spanish Touch
Valley View Vineyard: A Friday the 13th Connection
Assorted Southern Oregon Wines & Black Bear Diner
Illahe, Matello & Johan in the Willamette Valley
Portland, Wine & Feast Grand Tasting

Rant: Chains Able To Sell More Wine

It had long been Massachusetts law that no entity could possess more than three liquor licenses, but that will soon change and the ramifications could be quite interesting.

Previously, a business like Trader Joe's or Costco, with multiple stores in Massachusetts, could only sell spirits, wine and beer at three of their stores. In part, this helped limit their competition with independent liquor and wine stores. But the Boston Globe has reported a significant change to the law, and independent stores may have to up their game because of increased competition.

The new legislation, a compromise between industry groups, will increase the amount of liquor licenses that a chain can possess. Next year, the limit will increase from three to five and then increase to seven in 2016. Finally, in 2020, the limit will increase to nine. It should be noted that this new law does not increase the number of licenses which can be issued, and any license must still be approved by the city or town. So, if a chain wants more than three liquor licenses, it must find a city or town which has some available and then petition for approval.

How will this affect small, independent wine stores? I think there is potential for some of them to face much more competition, especially price wise. Though the increase in the limit of licenses seems fairly small, only two more next year and it will be four more years before that limit increases by another two, the cumulative effect can be more significant. For example, three chains in a single city could technically seek liquor licenses, and that could be a threat to any small, independent shops.

A wine shop that already has three locations could increase that to five, giving them a greater buying power, and allowing them to purchase wine at lower prices due to the amount they can purchase. That would be competition to small shops that cannot lower their prices as much because they lack the larger buying power.

The greatest barrier to these scenarios is that the number of total liquor licenses permitted to each city or town has not been raised. Not all cities and towns have available licenses so chains may have to be very selective where they choose to expand. In addition, these chains will still have to seek approval to obtain any available license, and such approval can be very difficult. Local liquor and wine stores might very well oppose the granting of a license to a large chain. So it is not a given that a chain store will be able to obtain a new license in any particular community. But if they do, a potential threat exists.

Independent wine stores already have to face some price competition, and with the potential for even more competition in the near future, they probably should up their game. They need to stress the benefits to shopping at their stores, to emphasize the customer service that might not be available at the larger chains. They need to make themselves more unique, to show that price alone is an insufficient reason to shop elsewhere. That might not be easy, but they need to find ways if they hope to compete.

We need small, independent wine shops so let us hope they are up for the challenge. Such shops deserve our support, but they still must earn that support.

Spirits Cause Promiscuity

About 25 years ago, it was easy for me to be monogamous. But nowadays, with so many choices available to me, I have embraced promiscuity. Sure, I have some I prefer more than others, but I love to experiment, to see what the new ones have to offer. And I am far from alone. You might not want to admit it, but I bet most of you have become promiscuous too.

When I first started drinking spirits, my choices were rather limited. There just were not that many brands available, so I, like many others, soon enough found favorites within each category, such as a favorite vodka and tequila. We then generally were monogamous, loyal to that brand and saw no need to stray. At liquor stores, we would purchase our favorite brand. At restaurants and bars, we would always order that favorite brand. If we bought someone a bottle as a gift, it was an easy decision, just purchase them their favorite brand.

But as time passed, temptation arose to break those bonds of monogamy. An incredible diversity of spirits became available, in all categories, and many were high quality products. It led me, as it did many others, to try these new spirits, to break our loyalty to our favorite brands. For me, that led to the adoption of new favorites, as well as a promiscuous nature, the desire to continue to try new brands and spirits. I was no longer satisfied with a single brand, but wanted to experience all that was available out there.

So, when I visited a liquor store, it took much longer to decide which spirit to buy, and new brands, with that come hither look, might tempt me to give them a try. At restaurants and bars, I will peruse their liquor list to see all of the available options. I no longer have a single favorite brand. Now, I have a handful of favorites in each category, but am still willing to venture outside that group to experiment. That seems to hold true with many people I know, and none of them are remorseful for this fact.

Previously, each generation began drinking beer and spirits, and then got more into wine as the generation got older. But, now with the incredible diversity of artisan spirits available (as well as craft beers), I am not sure that will necessarily happen to the current generation, as well as future ones. With all of the excellent spirit choices now available, there is a compelling argument that drinkers will continue to embrace them, even as they get older. That could negatively affect the number of wine drinkers in the future, unless wineries work at creating reasons why consumers should consume wine rather than spirits.

I am a promiscuous spirits drinker, and proud of that fact.  What about you?