New Sampan Article; Origins of the Chinese Buffet

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."

--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

For over a year, I've been contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English newspaper in New England. It is published in print as well as online, available in both Chinese and English. I've previously written thirty articles for Sampan, and you can find links here. 

My newest article, The Origins of the Chinese Buffet, is now available in the new issue of Sampan. Joyce Chen's Restaurant, in Cambridge, once claimed to have invented the Chinese buffet, the iconic all-you-can-eat experience. However, is that true? I explore the origins of the Chinese buffet, and discover its ancestry extends back much longer to the Smorgasbord and 19th century all-you-can-eat menus. And as for the first Chinese buffet, you'll have to read my latest Sampan article for the answer. 

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!

2021: My Favorite Restaurants

What were some of my Favorite Restaurants of the past year?

As 2022 approaches, it's time once again to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. I'll be posting my annual series of Favorite Lists over the next couple weeks, covering food, restaurants, wine, spirits and other drinks. These lists should provide a comprehensive summary of my favorites from this past year, allowing my readers to more readily locate such gems, the best of my recommendations. 

Obviously, these Favorite Lists will be different, and smaller, from prior years due to the pandemic. Many food and drink events, such as the Seafood Expo North America, were canceled, postponed, or held virtually. Although dining out has occurred more this year than in 2020, it's still been significantly limited. However, there are still restaurants deserving of being highlighted, and I'll endeavor to showcase them. Hopefully, 2022 will a better year for restaurants, as well as major food and drink events. 

My first Favorites List of 2021 is my Favorite Restaurants, which will also include my Top Five Dishes of 2021. This is certainly not a complete list but is more a sampling of memorable restaurants and food items I've experienced and/or posted about over the past year. This list is also in no particular order, and is purely a subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. However, all of the restaurants here earn my hearty recommendation and I hope you'll enjoy them as well. For more Restaurant reviews, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Soall Viet Kitchen (Beverly)

     This Vietnamese restaurant opened during the pandemic, and is their second location, the first being in Marblehead. You can find my review here: Soall Viet Kitchen: A Bright & Tasty Spot in Beverly. The two owners are Sa Nguyen and Mia Lunt, close friends who desired to offer authentic Vietnamese cuisine, to highlight the culinary delights of their homeland. The food is fresh, well-prepared, delicious and reasonably priced. Some of my favorite dishes include their plump Shrimp Summer Rolls, the crispy Sweet Potato & Shrimp Fritters, the tasty Steamed Pork Bao, and the alluring Chicken Clay Pot (one of my Top 5 Dishes of 2021). They have Pho and Bahn Mi as well, but I recommend you branch out and try some of their other Vietnamese dishes.

Peruvian Taste Restaurant (Charlestown)   

    This is another restaurant which opened during the pandemic, in a commercial area of Charlestown. You can check out my review here: Peruvian Taste Restaurant: Compelling Chifa & More. They are open for breakfast, lunch and dinner, and serve both American and Peruvian cuisine, including Chifa. Chifa is a combination of Peruvian and Chinese cuisine, and they have the largest Chifa menu in the area. It's a casual spot, serving ample dishes of delicious, fresh comfort food that is reasonably priced. Some of my favorites dishes include the Papa a la Huancaina (boiled yellow potatoes in a spicy, creamy sauce), Pollada (an amazing fried chicken), Wantan Frito (fried wontons filled with chicken), Pollo Chi Jau Kay (boneless chicken morsels battered, fried and topped with sesame seeds and scallions), and Aeropuerto (a melange of fried rice, chicken, Char Siu pork, Lo Mein noodles, peppers, snow peas and scallions. And also one of my Top 5 Dishes of 2021). Go here, ignore the American cuisine, and expand your palate with fantastic Peruvian and Chifa cuisine. 

Butter "UR" Biscuit (Beverly)

   This restaurant began as a food truck and offers "Latin Soul Cuisine." You can read my review here: Butter "UR" Biscuit: A Warm Comfort To The Soul. The menu has items like Empanadas, Caribbean Rice Bowls, Burritos, and Quesadillas, but their Biscuits are compelling and delicious. with an assortment of Biscuit Sandwiches. The biscuits are huge, buttery, flaky and delicious. The Bacon, Egg & Cheese Biscuit is made with a buttermilk biscuit, two eggs your way, bacon and melted cheddar jack cheese. My favorite is their Cheesy Bird Biscuit, made with a buttermilk biscuit, fried chicken, a fried egg, and melted cheddar jack cheese. This was one of my best sandwiches of the year. The chicken was crisp and moist, complemented by the egg and cheese. Pure comfort food for the belly and soul.

Committee Ouzeri & Bar (Boston)   

    This Greek restaurant has long been one of my favorites, and my Brunch experience was a highlight of the year. Check out my review here: Greek Brunch & New Cocktails. Brunch is offered at Committee on both Saturday and Sunday, from 10am-3pm. Their Brunch Menu offers some Greek variations of popular brunch items, from Tsoureki Toast (Greek French Toast) to Spanakopita Grilled Cheese. You'll also find some of their regular dishes, from Souvlaki to Zucchini Crisps. My favorite dish were the Greek Yogurt Pancakes, which are topped by a sour cherry vyssino, honey, toasted almonds, and fresh berries. The pancakes were light and fluffy, some of the best I've had in recent years. Also compelling is their Breakfast Gyro, amply stuffed with scrambled eggs, grilled Halloumi, and loukaniko, and served with crispy home fries. Their Brunch cocktails are always an excellent addition as well. 

 

Tasting Counter (Somerville)  

     This is another restaurant which has long been one of my top favorites, and my experiences this year only solidify my love for this restaurant. Check out my review here: Chef Peter Ungár & Consistent Excellence. As I've frequently mentioned, Chef Ungár is one of the best chefs in the Boston+ area, and doesn't receive as much attention as he deserves. His restaurant has been consistently excellent every time I've been there, due in large part to Chef Ungár being a perfectionist. His dishes are creative and delicious, with such intriguing combinations of ingredients. And the drink pairings are excellent choices as well. It continues to receive my highest and unqualified recommendation. If you want to splurge on one of my top dining experiences in the Boston+ area, this is the spot you should do so. 

Nightshade Noodle Bar (Lynn)

    This is one of my newest favorite restaurants and it's only been open for two years, having to undergo the difficulties of the pandemic during much of their existence. You can read my two reviews here: Compelling Vietnamese/French Cuisine in Lynn, and Back to Nightshade: More Excellence. They offer a variety of small plates, great for sharing, and nearly every dish is exceptional, bursting with flavor, and creatively composed. Plus, they have an excellent wine list and cocktail program. I like their homey vibe, service is excellent, and they have an open kitchen, which I've always loved. Some of my favorite dishes include Curried Beef in Betel Leaves, Dungeness Crab Fried Rice, Homemade Egg Noodles with beef and mushrooms (One of my Top 5 Dishes of 2021, and the Bone Marrow Bahn Mi. This spot has received raves since its opening, and they are very well deserved. I'll be returning there soon and it receives my highest recommendation. 

 

Krasi Meze & Wine (Boston)

     This is another amazing restaurant where nearly every dish is exceptional. Check out my review here: Crazy for Krasi: A Greek Paradise. Their menu is also a wide selection of small plates, perfect for sharing, and offers creative Greek cuisine, with roots in tradition but it's not afraid to experiment. Their Greek wine list is amazing, the second largest in the country. Even their bread selections are excellent, such as the Tiropita cheese rolls. My favorite dish of my recent experience was the Makaronia Me Kima, usually a Greek version of Bolognese, made with ground beef or lamb (And also one of my Top 5 Dishes of 2021). Chef Valentine chose to create his own version using seafood and it was a major success. The dish was made with ground monkfish, smoked eel tomato sauce, fides pasta, and grated horseradish. This is another restaurant that receives my highest recommendation. 

Pammy's (Cambridge)

     Pammy's has received many raves over the years but I hadn't dined there until recently, and I look forward to a return visit. You can read my review here: Pammy's: A Compelling Restaurant of Creative Simplicity. Currently, the restaurant serves a prix-fixe menu, where you select any 3 dishes from their menu for $69. That is cool, and you can create any type of meal you desire. Some of the dishes we enjoyed included the Lobster Biscotto, Sea Scallops, with Grilled Avocado & 'Nduja Vinaigrette, and Marshall Cove Mussels with Squid Ink Arancini & Lime Leaf Aioli. My favorite dish was the Lumache, with Bolognese sauce and Gochujang, a killer combo of spiciness and umami (And also one of my Top 5 Dishes of 2021). Their wine list is intriguing, with plenty of excellent options, especially more organic/sustainable options from small wineries around the world. Service is excellent, I loved the comfy ambiance, and the food is delicious.

I also need to give some love to some of my other favorite restaurants, which I've visited this past year even though I haven't written articles about them this year. I've written about these places in previous years though, and they have remained consistent and excellent, and continue to earn my hearty recommendations. Please dine at these restaurants as well. 

A Tavola (Winchester)

     Excellent Italian cuisine.

Việt Citron (Burlington)

     Delicious, casual Vietnamese fare. 

Tambo 22 (Chelsea)

    Excellent Peruvian cuisine.

 
Prince Pizzeria (Saugus)

    Casual spot for Pizza and Italian cuisine.

District Kitchen (Malden)

    Excellent Chinese cuisine. 

Row 34 (Burlington)

    Excellent high-end seafood 

Clam Box of Ipswich (Ipswich)

    Excellent casual seafood spot.

Nick & Andy's (Danvers)

     Excellent, casual breakfast spot.     

Support the Restaurant Industry: As I said above, the restaurant industry has been devastated by this pandemic, especially as the federal government has done little to aid and assist the industry. Some restaurants have closed permanently and others may be forced to do so in the near future. We need to support our favorite restaurants as much as we are capable, from buying gift cards to ordering take-out, from getting delivery to tipping well. If you have a positive dining experience, tell your family and friends. Spread the word on social media. 

What were some of your Favorite Restaurants and Dishes this year?

"Multivintage" Bruno Pailiard Première Cuvée Champagne: Pure Elegance

"Frog eyes should not be in your bubbly."
--Bruno Paillard

That's a quote that has remained with me for the last ten years. While I was touring the Champagne region, I visited the small House, Champagne Bruno Pailiard, and listened to the passionate, and outspoken, Bruno Paillard. I wrote about my experiences in Champagne Bruno Pailiard: The Art of Assemblage. In short, Bruno feels that the bubbles in Champagne should be tiny, almost microscopic, and that large bubbles, "frog eyes" have no place in a quality Champagne. Few would dispute that Bruno Paillard produces high quality Champagne. 

Champagne Bruno Pailiard is a small, family-owned Champagne House that was established in 1981, making it 40 years old this year. They currently own about 79 acres of vineyards, almost half of which are Grand Cru. In general, the vineyards are farmed organically and sustainably. They also purchase about 50% of their grapes from a variety of other growers. Bruno sees this as an advantage, because he then gains access to so many different plots and terroirs. This allows him much more versatility and diversity in his Champagne blends, like giving him a vast palette of colors to compose his masterpieces.

As I wrote before, "To Bruno, the blend is the true heart of Champagne, and that assemblage is an artistic process. It is a composition, where different "colors" are used to create a greater "picture." For him, a Champagne label refers more to a person than a place, as it is the person who retains the control over the blend. Thus, a blend is the best way to be loyal to your signature, to express your creativity."

And as Bruno's website states: "A great champagne for Bruno Paillard is – above all – an “assemblage”, blending: of diverse crus, grape varieties and vintages. It is about the constant desire to capture the quintessential finesse and elegance which champagne can bring when it is served with love and care. The Bruno Paillard style is a marriage of elegance and complexity which is manifested as a light and smooth effervescence, a remarkable purity, a true freshness and a silky texture."

I received a media sample of the "Multivintage" Bruno Pailiard Première Cuvée ($60), which is the flagship wine for the Bruno Paillard style. Bruno doesn't like the term "non-vintage," as he believes it's meaningless. He prefers to use the term "multivintage," as it is more indicative of the actuality of the blend, usually a combination of grapes from several different vintages. In general, this Cuvée is a blend of about 25 vintages.

The wine is also a blend of about 45% Pinot Noir, 35% Chardonnay, and 22% Pinot Meunier, from a selection of 35 of the 320 crus of Champagne. The specific selection of crus is kept a secret. The Cuvée is meant to be consistent year to year, even when the harvest isn't the best. In addition, only the first pressing of the grapes is used. The wine is aged for three years sur lie, longer than the legal requirement, and then aged for at least another five months after disgorgement. 

To Bruno, the disgorgement date is an essential element of Champagne production, and in 1983, he was the first Champagne producer to place the disgorgement date on every single bottle of his production.  "By doing this, he tells the consumer about a key moment in the life of a champagne bottle: Disgorgement is like a second birth for the wine." The dosage for this wine is very low, meant to create "a very pure, very authentic champagne." 

The Première Cuvée has a nice golden color and very tiny bubbles are visible in your glass. There's certainly not a single frog eye. The aromas are intriguing, with a fine melange of red berries, orange and grapefruit, and a hint of almond. As I tasted this wine, its elegance, complexity and freshness stood out, pure deliciousness and each sip made me crave more. Dry and crisp, the flavors were complex and tasty, including apple, citrus, almond, a touch of brioche, a streak of minerality, and red fruits, but each sip seemed to bring forth even more flavors. It's the type of Champagne to slowly sip, to revel in the different, intriguing flavors that flit over your palate. The finish is lengthy and satisfying, clean and pure. 

I loved this Champagne! Its elegance, subtlety and complexity were captivating. And it offers so much more than many other Champagnes at a similar price point. It would be great on its own, as an aperitif or celebratory drink, but it would also pair well with a variety of foods. I'd love to drink it with oysters or even lobster. And Champagne and potato chips is always a fun pairing. The Bruno Pailiard Première Cuvée earns my highest recommendation.

Rant: Tell Them Who Sent You

While dining this past week, I was informed by our server that some guests had stopped by because they had read my restaurant review. That's always a cool feeling but it's rare because so few people inform a restaurant what brought them there. 

Before dining out, a significant number of people will seek out restaurant reviews to assist in their decision of where to eat. There are certainly plenty of options to find reviews, from large crowd-sourced spots to individual blogs. However, the diners often won't tell the restaurant what brought them in. They'll eat in silence, their motivation an enigma. 

I know restaurant reviewers would appreciate knowing when people rely on their reviews and patronize certain restaurants. That helps them know that their work has been helpful to their readers. The restaurants would also like to know what brought you into their places. During these difficult times for restaurants, they would appreciate any help they can receive, and knowing which reviews brought you in can benefit them.   

If one of my readers dines at a restaurant based on one of my reviews, and they enjoy their meal, I would appreciate that they told the restaurant that you visited them based on my recommendation.  Please also tell me where you dined based on my review. The same thing applies to everything else I have reviewed here, from wines to books. Let your voice be heard, and tell people where you learned of their products. It will cost you no more than a few moments of your time.

I encourage you to do this for any reviewer you use. If you like what they recommend, let it be known. You benefited from their reviews so give them a little something in exchange.  

Tell them I sent you.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Prezza, one of my favorite Italian restaurants in the North End, celebrates the ‘Feast of the Seven Fishes’ all month long with their December specials, honoring the age-old Italian tradition. Available a la cart, Prezza’s December specials menu, available through Friday, December 24, features seven seafood options allowing customers to do a full feast with all seven or pick and choose their favorites.

The ‘Feast of the Seven Fishes’ menu includes:
Fried Smelts with Lemon Caper Aioli
Scallop Crudo with Blood Orange, Fennel, Citrus Vinaigrette & Calabrian Chiles
Fried Oysters with Cherry Pepper Aioli
White Anchovy Crostini with Garlic, Wine, Cherry Tomatoes & Olive Tapenade
Grilled Octopus Salad with Potatoes, Celery & Black Olives
Shrimp Scampi Flatbread
Linguine White Clam with Littleneck Clams, Garlic, White Wine, Parsley & Lemon

2) The Boston Harbor Hotel is modernizing a celebrated tradition of presenting seasonal events with the return of its annual Boston Wine Festival, which will now be known as the Boston Wine & Food Festival®. Entering its 33rd season, the nation’s longest-running wine and food festival will be led by newly appointed Boston Harbor Hotel Executive Chef, David Daniels, and longtime industry expert, Nancy Bean, Executive Director of WISE UP Events.

With the new name brings new programming and unique events, along with the classic all-star lineup of intimate winemaker and vintner-hosted dinners, seminars, and regional tastings. This year’s programming also includes a weekend complete with a cocktail reception, wine dinner, and brunch.

“The Boston Harbor Hotel has always been synonymous with fine wine. We realize that after over three decades and new culinary leadership, it is time to enhance the Wine Festival and that starts with the name change to the Boston Wine and Food Festival,” says Boston Harbor Hotel General Manager Stephen Johnston. “This year we will bring some new and exciting events and programming to the three-month long festival, courtesy of the hotel’s new Executive Chef, David Daniels and respected wine veteran, Nancy Bean.”

Some of the events include Château La Nerthe Dinner, James Bond’s Bordeaux Dinner, Wine & Theatre with Laura Catena, Battle of the Cabs!, Judgement of Paris, and more.

Events will run on the waterfront destination from January through March, kicking off with the opening weekend on January 21, 2022. Tickets to select events for this year’s festival are available HERE. Additional programming will be available on December 15, 2021.

3) To celebrate the new year, Chef Michael Serpa, Executive Chef Reggie Da Silva, and the Grand Tour team invite guests to join them for its new weekend Brunch service. Kicking off on New Year’s Day, the Parisian-inspired bistro, will serve a brunch menu in addition to its regularly available menu from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. every Saturday and Sunday. Grand Tour’s brunch will feature classic French dishes like croque madame, caviar-topped omelets, and more.