Bodega Renacer: Enamored with Enamore

Enamore "...has the jaw-dropping sex appeal of an Argentinean lingerie model."   
--Bounty Hunter catalog

A few days before I left for Argentina, I recieved the latest copy of the Bounty Hunter wine catalog. Within the pages, I found a review of the Bodega Renacer Enamore, an Amarone style wine, and it certainly caught my eye. I knew that I would be visiting that winery, so I hoped that I would get to sample the Enamore, to determine whether it lived up to the sensual review.

Bodega Renacer is a relatively new winery in Argentina, having been established in 2002, and has a Chilean pedigree.  The family which owns the winery is from Chile, and had worked in a Chilean winery but one which emphasized quantity over quality. In time, they chose to move to Mendoza, to create their own winery where they could produce more quality-driven wines.  Their name, Renacer, means "rebirth." 

The winery is located in Perdriel, in the foothills of the Andes, and it is stunningly beautiful with an incredible view of the mountains. For wine productuion, they use state of the art Italian technology, with both stainless steel and cement, with epoxy, tanks.  They produce mainly Malbec-based wines, purchasing about 60% of their grapes they use, thus allowing them to sample numerous terroirs, including Uco Valley, Lujan de Cuyo and Medrano. They own about 29 hectares of Malbec vineyards. One of the vineyards they lease originated in 1918, and these old vines end up in their highest quality wines.  Each year, they produce about 100,000 cases of wine. It is interesting to note that their Malbecs are almost never 100% Malbec, but usually have a tiny percentage of some other grape added. 

The winery is also a pioneer in the use of precision viticulture, which attempts to maximize vineyard quality by measuring local variation with science and technology.  They have worked with Pedro Parra, the famous Chilean soil scientist, to help determine the nature of their soil and terroir, using tools such as sonar. This leads to the creation of detailed vineyard maps, so that the winery can best understand where specific grapes will be the best. 

One of their first wines we tasted was the 2010 Punto Final Malbec Rose, which is a relatively new wine for them, 2009 having been their first vintage.  It is not currently available in the U.S. but it should be as this was a delicious wine, perfect for a summer day.  It had a dark pink color with an alluring red fruit nose, and that red fruit came out in the taste, yet there was still restraint to the fruit flavors.  It was dry, with a bit of tartness, had good acidity and some slight herbal tastes. The finish was moderately long and left you desiring another sip. This wine would be great with a variety of foods, and if available, I would be drinking it all summer.

We also tasted through their three level of Malbec, including their entry level, Reserva and Gran Reserva. In general, they were big, tannic wines, the type you need to drink with a thick, juicy steak. They also generally had lots of black fruit flavors with plenty of spice. But, I think, at least for me, they were all surpassed by the Enamore.

When Marilisa Allegrini visited the Mendoza region, she felt that it possessed the perfect condition to produce Amarone, so Bodega Renacer, in collaboration with Allegrini Winery, decided to give it a try. Their first vintage was 2006. For Amarone, a process called appassimento is used, where grapes are dried out, traditionally on straw mats, for about three months.  The grapes lose both water and malic acid, while there is an intense concentration of flavors and sugars. To make Enamore, the grapes are also allowed to dry out on straw mats, as pictured above. Due to the climate in Mendoza though, the drying process only takes about three weeks.

The name of the wine, Enamore, means "to be in love" and, cleverly, it is also an anagram for Amarone. On the label, the red string near the top represents Italy, the Old World, while the orange string at the bottom represents Argentina, the New World.  Both strings then meet at the "M" which stands for Mendoza, where the two wineries came together. Approximately 5,000 cases are produced each year, with about 60% being exported to the U.S. and 20% to Italy. This is probably the only Amarone style wine produced anywhere in Argentina.  

The Enamore ($30) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 9% Bonarda, and 4% Syrah, though the blend may vary year from year.  It spends about one year in new French oak and has an alcohol content of 14.5%.  This wine captivated me from my first taste. Though it is a big wine, with strong tannins, it has a silky and hedonistic backbone which I found especially alluring. The taste was complex, with a melange of ripe plum, dried raisens, chocolate notes, dusty spice, and more.  The lengthy, pleasing finish seduced my tastebuds, beckoning me like a siren to seek more of this velvety wine. At this price, I think it is an excellent value, delivering as much as some wines at twice the price. Yes, I was quite enamored with this Enamore.

The Enamore would pair well with steak, lamb, and other hearty dishes.  After our visit to Bodega Renacer, we had lunch at the oustanding Cavas Wine Lodge, and I thoroughly was delighted by the Enamore with lamb ravioli. This wine gets my highest recommendation and I will be seeking it out too.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) Ashmont Grill Proprietor Chris Douglass, and chef de cuisine John Rush, present a new spring menu with an enhanced emphasis on vegan and vegetarian options, including:

* Asparagus Soup with truffled ricotta
* Vegetable Tempura with aioli and pickled onions
* Maine Crab & Zucchini Risotto w/ baby arugula, almond gremolata
* Braised Artichoke Skordalia with snap peas, favas and chervil
* Wood-Grilled Leg of Spring Lamb with ramp puree
* Polenta Cake with Soft-Boiled Farm Egg, parmesan & pancetta, lemon-thyme vinnie

Other events going on include:

Saturdays and Sundays:
Weekend Brunch from 10:00 to 3:00 - Urban Patio Now Open

Mondays:
The Grill’s Weekly Wine Club benefits Boston City Singers during May. $5 of each $35 tasting meal is donated through our Give Back @ The Grill program
May 9 Grill-worthy Wines
May 16 South Africa
May 23 The Pinot Noirs of Summer
May 30 Hey, Hey Chardonnay

Wine Club benefits The Boston Cyclists Union throughout June
June 6 St. Germaine Cocktails
June 13 Truro Vineyards with proprietor Dave Roberts
June 20 Grayson Vineyards
June 27 “Patio Pounders”

Tuesdays:
Create-A-Cocktail contest continues on Facebook. Winning recipe chosen May 15

Thursdays:
Buck-A-Shuck Local Oysters on the patio with Bivalv-olater Chris Douglass

2) Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar is introducing an all-inclusive “Prime Celebrations” dinner menu. You can celebrate a big night with a complete three-course dinner for $50 per guest, including tax and gratuity. It will be available from May 10-June 30. 

MENU: Choice of one of four entrées and sides, and the option of Classic Caesar Salad, Fleming’s Salad, The Wedge or Chef’s Seasonal Soup, and dessert.

ENTREES (select one)
--Petite Filet Mignon
--New York Strip
--Double Chicken Breast, baked in a white wine, mushroom, shallot and thyme sauce
--Tuna Mignon, Seared rare with peppercorns and tomato sherry vinaigrette

DESSERTS (select one)
--Crème Brûlée, Creamy Tahitian vanilla bean custard served with fresh seasonal berries
--Cheesecake, Graham cracker crust, blueberry sauce and white chocolate shavings
--Walnut Turtle Pie, Caramel, walnuts and chocolate baked in a chocolate pie crust

3) The 14th Annual Chefs in Shorts© event brings together a group of the area’s leading chefs who will fire up the grills and create their favorite dishes during this outdoor, summer-in-the-city barbecue. Join some of the city’s most talented chefs for a night of grill-offs and fun, including:

Jeff Fournier, 51 Lincoln; Antonio Bettencourt, 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar; Rodney Murillo, Avila & Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse; Tim Cuniff, Backyard Farms; Jay Silva, Bambara Restaurant & Bar; Peter Tartsinis, Blue on Highland; Mark Sapienza, BOND at The Langham Boston; Jarrod Moiles, BOKX 109 American Prime; Gianni Caruso, Bricco Enoteca and Lounge; Steve Butters, Butter Café & Bakery; Laura Henry Zoubir, Church and Regal Beagle; Derek Barragan, Del Frisco’s Double Eagle Steak House; Charles Draghi, Erbaluce; Joseph Bartel, Flemings; Corey Johnson, Jeffrey Stevens, Aniceto Sousa, Flour Bakery; Alex Aratake, Haru Sushi; Shore Gregory, Island Creek Oysters; Harjit Singh, Kashmir; Josh Beuhler, KO Prime; Rick Barisano, LTK; Nicholas Dixon, Lucky's Lounge; Market by Jean-Georges; Max Brenner, Max Brenner; Todd Winer, Metropolitan Club; Carlos Pena, Morton’s; Chef S. Giridhar, Mumbai Chopstix; Stefan Jarausch, Oak Room at the Fairmont Copley; Stuart Race, Pairings; Philip Rotondo, Philip R's; Marc Orfaly, Pigalle; Brian Poe, Poe’s Kitchen at the Rattlesnake; Jackie Kelly, Remy’s Sports Bar & Grill; Richard Rayment, Seaport Hotel; Karen Hodsdon, Seaport Pastry; Amin Belkadi, Stanhope Grille; Salvatore Firicano, Strega Waterfront/The Varano Group; Chris Douglass, Tavolo/Ashmont Grill; Todd Hall, Temazcal Cantina; Mark Porcaro, Top of the Hub; Suzi Maitland, Trina’s Starlite Lounge; Cris Masco, Turner Fisheries and Mark Goldberg, Woodward at AMES.

WHEN: Friday, June 24th, from 7:00pm-9:30pm
WHERE: Seaport Boston, 200 Seaport Boulevard, Boston (along the upper level viaduct)
COST: $60 per person, which includes complimentary beer, wine and tastings.
BENEFICIARY: The Greater Boston Food Bank distributes 34 million pounds of food annually to more than 550 hunger-relief agencies in a dedicated partnership to end hunger in eastern Massachusetts. Founded in 1981, The Food Bank celebrates its 30th anniversary this year. For more information about The Greater Boston Food Bank, visit their website at www.gbfb.org or call 617-427-5200.
TICKETS: Tickets are available through the Seaport website, www.seaportboston.com after May 12.

4) Armed Forces Day, taking place on May 21, is an opportunity to say thank you to the men and women in active military service who are protecting our freedoms.  In honor of their sacrifice TAMO Bar & TAMO Terrace at the Seaport Hotel will offer all active members of the United States military, with military ID:
· ½ priced entrees and
· a free order of Chef Rachel Klein’s Spring Rolls

Muscadet Month: The Older Mysteries

In the Boston area, it is Muscadet May, a celebration of this famous Loire white wine, sponsored by Loire Valley Wines. You can find a number of participating restaurants and wine stores, as well as some special Muscadet tasting events. So you have plenty of opportunities to experience this delicious, and inexpensive, wine. I was fortunate to be invited to a Muscadet luncheon at Island Creek Oyster Bar, a chance to experience nine Muscadets with some local seafood.

I previously explored the The Mystery of Melon de Bourgogne, the grape which constitutes Muscadet, after attending a Loire Valley Wines tasting. I enjoyed numerous Muscadet wines at that tasting, and the 2008 Chateau de la Rogotiere Vielles Vignes Black Label 'Stelvin' Muscadet ($14.99) was even one of my 2010: Top Ten Wines Under $15.  But Muscadet still seems to be more of a niche wine, known far more to geeky wine lovers than the general public. Yet everyone should know of it, as it is an easy-drinking, value wine and especially great with seafood. For wine lovers, it can also offer plenty of complexity, as well as being indicative of its terroir.

We tasted three flights of Muscadet, three glasses per flight, and all nine wines tasted different. Muscadet can express itself in a variety of flavor profiles.  The first flight, with a classic pairing of Island Creek oysters and a Muscadet mignonette, consisted of 2009 Guy Saget Les Clissages d'Or Muscadet Sevre et Maine, 2009 Domaine de la Quilla Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie and 2010 Domaine de la Louvetrie Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie. All three cost about $12-$14 each, offering simple but delicious wines, with dominant fruit flavors including green apple and melon. My favorite of this group was the Louvetrie, which had a nice acidity to it. The Island Creeks, one of my favorite type of oyster, went great with the Muscadet, and these wines would have gone well with plenty of other seafoods, from shellfish to light fish dishes.

The second flight included 2009 Michael Delhommeau 'Cuvee Harmonie' Muscadet Sevre et Maine Sur Lie, 2009 Domaine de L'Ecu 'Expression de Granite' Muscadet Sevre et Maine, and 2009 Domaine Les Hautes Noelles Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu. These wines, priced at about $14-$18, were single vineyard Muscadet and they evidenced strong mineral notes. The fruit flavors were there but beneath the more prominent stony and mineral tastes. More complex, these wines impressed me even more than the first flight. They offer excellent value and again would go very well with seafood. These wines were paired with English Pea Soup with Poached Kumamoto Oysters and Lemon Cream. I didn't think the pairing went that well, the flavors of the soup seeming to overpower the taste of the Muscadet.

For me, the highlight of the luncheon was the final flight, an opportunity to taste some aged Muscadet. You will find many sources telling you that Muscadet should be drank young, and that it does not age well. Yet that is not actually the case, and there are Muscadets which can mature wonderfully, and be quite compelling wines. These were probably the oldest Muscadets I have ever tasted, and they won't be the last as I will actively seek them out.  We got to taste the 1995 L D'or de Luneau-Papin 'Cuvee Medaillee' Muscadet Sevre et Maine, 1999 L D'or de Luneau-Papin 'Cuvee Medaillee' Muscadet Sevre et Maine and 2000 Domaine du Haut Bourg Muscadet Cotes de Grandlieu.

Above, you can see the brigh gold color of these aged Muscadet, and they were oxidized to various degrees. They offered complex and intriguing flavors with dried fruits, apricot, honey, minerality, and even some herbal notes. These are wines to slowly savor, to let the melange of flavors slowly tantalize your palate. If these are representative of aged Muscadet, then wine lovers really need to taste these wines. They remind me in some ways of the aged whites of Lopez de Heredia.  And one of the best things about these wines is their cost, only about $25 each! That is a steal for an aged wine of this quality, and you can still find these wines of wine store shelves.  Of the three, the 1999 was my favorite, showcasing the best elements of young and aged Muscadet, as well as evidencing plenty of unique character.

The aged Muscadet were paired with Scituate Sea Scallops with Brown Butter-Oyster Sauce, Ricotta Gnocchi and Favas. The scallops were very fresh, having just been caught earlier that morning. This was a superb dish, with such tender scallops in a savory sauce and fluffy gnocchi. The Muscadet went very well with the scallops, able to cut through the creaminess of the sauce as well as complementing the seafood. Island Creek Bar has become one of the top seafood destinations in Boston.

I have now delved even deeper into the mysteries of Melon de Bourgogne, uncovering some evidence of the nature of aged Muscadet. That was an exciting discovery, especially considering how inexpensive you can purchase 10-15 year old Muscadet. They might not appeal to the general wine consumer, but wine geeks will be fascinated with these aged wines.  As I have said before, Melon de Bourgogne may be a relatively neutral grape, but winemakers can transform it into fascinating wines.

La Mar, Pisco Sours & A Cautionary Tale

Ceviche and Pisco Sours.

On my recent journey to Chile, we dined one evening at La Mar, a high-end Peruvian restaurant in Santiago. La Mar is a small chain, with a couple restaurants in the U.S. as well, one in San Francisco and another to open in New York City in the near future. From its multi-colored potato chips to its fresh seafood, from its causa to ceviche, we enjoyed a seemingly endless series of dishes, most quite delicious and compelling. We did a good tour of the menu, and found much to enjoy. It is a restaurant I would highly recommend, for both their food as well as their Pisco Sours.

Multi-colored potato chips. A nice start to the meal. There are so many different varieties of potatoes in Peru and we really need to see more of them available in the U.S.

Grilled Prawns. A delectable crustacean.

Several different causa, which are essentially mashed potato dumplings, topped by a variety of seafoods including crab and tuna. An interesting presentation and they were all quite tasty as well.

A group of different ceviches, raw fish that has been marinated in citrus juices and with added chili pepper. The signature dish of La Mar, and an excellent pairing with Pisco Sours.

Even more delightful dishes from a very enjoyable evening.

Beside its cuisine, La Mar is also very well known for its hand-crafted Pisco Sours.  Pisco is basically a type of grape brandy, produced in Peru and Chile. There is some friction between Peru and Chile over Pisco, as Peru believes it alone is entitled to call their product "Pisco" while Chile believes it too is entitled to use that term. They also disagree as to which country invented the Pisco Sour. This debate is unlikely to resolve any time soon.

The word "pisco" derives from "pisqu," a term in the Quechua language, that of the Incas, which refers to "little birds."  There is a city on the Peruvian coast called Pisco, and the term also refers to conical pottery in which the alcohol was aged. The Spaniards, during the 16th century, created pisco in Peru as an alternative to the more expensive Orujo, a pomace brandy, which was being imported into the region. Pisco, especially as it was cheap, soon became popular with sailors of all nationalities who stopped on the Peruvian coast. During the Gold Rush, Pisco even became popular in California.

It is believed that Pisco came to Chile in the later 19th century when Chile occupied part of southern Peru.  Chile began producing their first Pisco around 1871, and its Appellation of Origin was legally approved in 1931. Interestingly, though Peruvians originated Pisco, Chileans currently drink, per capita, about twenty times more Pisco than Peruvians.

Pisco is typically 60-100 proof, and several different types are available, including oak aged versions. It can be produced from several different grapes, such as Muscat, Torontel and Pedro Jiménez. Some are clear in color while others range from yellow to deep amber.  Peruvians celebrate National Pisco Sour Day on the first weekend of February.  In the U.S., Pisco is still relatively uncommon and approximately 25,000 cases were imported in 2009. In most U.S. restaurants and bars, Pisco Sours will be the most common drink found that is made from Pisco.

There is no clear cut origin of the Pisco Sour, though one story claims an Englishman set up a bar in Peru, in about 1872, and created the cocktail. The Peruvian city, Iquique, where the bar was established became a Chilean city in 1884. The Pisco Sour is essentially made with Pisco, Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup and an Egg White, and topped by Angostura Bitters. You will find recipes though using different amounts of each ingredient, as well as recipes using different ones, such as limes instead of lemons. Much will depend on your own cocktail preferences as to how you choose to make your Pisco Sour. Interestingly, another popular Pisco drink in Chile is Piscola, a mix of Pisco and Coca Cola.   

At La Mar, the Pisco Sours were especially good, and during the course of the evening, I ended up drinking six of them. The recipe for their Pisco Sour includes: 3oz Pisco, 1oz lemon juice, 1oz simple syrup and 1 oz egg white. Shake the ingredients over ice, strain and and then top with angostura bitters. This provided a nice, balanced drink which was not overly sweet. I had more Pisco Sours at our hotel, but they were usually too sweet for me. I brought a bottle of Pisco home with me and plan to have a Pisco Sour party in the near future, using the recipe from La Mar.

Have you had Pisco Sours before?  If so, what were your thoughts?

Let me end with a cautionary tale. Drinking too many Pisco Sours, or any cocktail, could end up in you passed out on an elevator floor. You don't want that to happen to you so please drink with caution.

(No, that did not actually happen to me. It was a staged photo.)

The Passionate Foodie Turns Four!

Today is the Fourth Anniversary of The Passionate Foodie blog, and though it may sound cliche, it really does seems like forever since I first began this endeavor.  As I also previously wrote for another wine and food blog for 1.5 years, the time seems even longer.  During all that time, I have seen a number of local food and wine blogs come and go, with a surge in food blogs within the last year or so.  There are now nearly 350 wine and food blogs in Massachusetts, most which did not exist when I started my blog.  And many of them will probably not last for four years. 

Why have I had such longevity?  Is there some big blogging secret that I can reveal to others?  What continues to inspire me after all this time?  Are there still original and unique topics for me to write about? Am I still happy doing what I am doing?   

The first and last questions are directed related, and there is no major secret involved.  I have made it this long because I still very much enjoy doing it. Writing can be a task, but it is something which I find fulfilling, which brings me joy, satisfaction and a sense of accomplishment. Yes, there are times when it only seems to be a laborious chore, but those are few and far between. If writing became laborious as a norm, then I probably would stop doing it. But overall, writing continues to make me very happy so I will continue to do so for a long time to come.

Not everyone feels that way, and there is no reason they should. Everyone is different, and possesses their own preferences and dislikes. Starting a blog is very easy, and appeals to many people, but a significant number of people will never complete a year of blog posts. Kudos to everyone though who has continued to blog year after year, as it is a significant achievement.     

Food, wine, sake and spirits continue to inspire me as there is always so much more to learn, taste and experience. I cannot grow bored as there is always a new challenge out there, a new marvel to behold, new factoids to learn. I believe my knowledge and wisdom have continued to expand over these last four years, but there is still so much more room for growth. I have but delved into a mere fraction of what exists. Thus, I will never run out of items to write about. As I look back just over this past year, I realize how many new things I have experienced.  With a new year before me, I can anticipate many more.

Let me present just a few highlights of the past year.  I have acquired two certifications, becoming a Certified Sake Professional and a Wine Location Specialist.  In addition, I have taught several educational classes and presided over a number of tastings and dinners. My travels have taken me to places including San Francisco, Washington, Spain, Italy, Argentina and Chile. My rants have garnered lots of attention, both positive and negative, especially when I called out Alton Brown. My extensive number of restaurants reviews have kept me at #1 (out of 203 blogs) on the Urbanspoon Boston Blog Leaderboard.  I was also interviewed by the Boston Globe about my sake passion.

My passion for food, wine, sake and spirits has become more than a hobby, and has transformed into my profession for more than a year. That has been far from an easy road, but one which has been more fulfilling than any of my previous careers. It entails more than just writing on my blog, and extends in many different directions, such as teaching seminars and hosting wine dinners. To make this a profession you need to be flexible, versatile and creative. You must always be looking out for new opportunities. You'll probably never get wealthy, but you might be very happy, and that is what is most important in life.

There are many people to thank for not only this past year, but for all four years. I want to give thanks to all of my readers, and hope they continue to provide me their input, questions and comments.  I want to thank all of my family and friends, who have been so supportive for all these years. I am very appreciative as well to all of the new friends I have met through the food and wine community, from fellow bloggers to chefs, from wine store owners to wine makers. Food, wine, sake and spirits are always much better when shared with others.

What is coming up in my fifth year?  Hopefully more certifications, maybe including becoming a Certified Sherry Educator.  More travel, with a couple of trips already planned for Niagara, Toronto and Virginia. More new restaurants, more new wines, more new friends.  And who knows what else will come about. All I know is that it will be a fascinating year, with plenty of new experiences.

Go forth and drink and dine with passion!