Maine Lobsters: Endangered?

"Seventeenth-century settlers and fishermen fed lobsters to hogs and servants, pitch-forked them into fields as fertilizer, and used lobster flesh as bait to catch the more desirable striped bass, or to bait eelpots."
--The Mortal Sea: Fishing the Atlantic in the Age of Sail by W. Jeffrey Bolster

As summer nears, people all over New England, including many tourists, will begin seeking out Lobster Rolls. At its most basic, it is a hot dog roll filled with chunks of lobster, however, you will find much diversity at the various restaurants which serve them. Maybe it has melted butter or mayonnaise, or maybe lettuce and celery. Everyone has their preference. In the near future though, lobster rolls might start being less common, as well as more expensive. In fact, all lobster dishes might meet this same fate.

".., lobster was redefined as marketable and targeted intensively beginning around 1830."
--The Mortal Sea: Fishing the Atlantic in the Age of Sail by W. Jeffrey Bolster

At the Seafood Expo North America (SENA), I attended a special session presented by the Maine Lobster Marketing Collaborative on Maine Lobster from Trap to Table. One of the main panelists was Carl Wilson, the lead Lobster Biologist at the Maine Department of Marine Resources, and he stated that for about the last thirty years, lobster landings in Maine have been increasing, after about fifty years of stable numbers. The warming of the waters has contributed to a boom in the lobster population, and landings have essentially doubled in the last 5-7 years. For Maine, the lobster industry is vital, with about 4,500 active lobstermen and 2 million lobster traps. and occupies 70% of the value of all Maine fisheries.

"The first sign of decline came in 1812, when voters in Provincetown, Massachusetts, alarmed by the depletion of local stocks, convinced the state legislature to limit lobstering in those waters to Massachusetts residents."
--The Mortal Sea: Fishing the Atlantic in the Age of Sail by W. Jeffrey Bolster

However, that could all be changing. A recent University of Maine survey, the American Lobster Settlement Index, covering 11 locations in the Gulf of Maine, seems to indicate that the population of baby lobsters has declined, less than 50% of what existed in 2007. The warming temperatures, which have led to an increased in landings, may also be partially responsible for this decline, though the reasons are probably multiple and still not fully understood. The Maine Department of Marine Resources though does not believe the decline is due to overfishing. Lobstermen might start seeing decreased landings as early as 2016.

"By the 1870s laments about the future of lobsters had become commonplace. In 1872 W. L. Faxon wrote to Massachusetts’ fish commissioners that “this valuable crustacean has been pretty closely fished in Massachusetts waters for the last ten years, and the value of the catch is decreasing yearly and rapidly.”
--The Mortal Sea: Fishing the Atlantic in the Age of Sail by W. Jeffrey Bolster

We must remember that this is more of a potential warning than a definitive danger. It is an area of potential concern which must be studied in greater detail, and steps will need to be taken to address the problem. We also need to more fully understand the reasons for the decline in baby lobsters, especially if it is not due to overfishing. This also presents an excellent cautionary tale, showing that even with record landings, matters can change fairly quickly if we are not alert to potential issues.

"Nevertheless, conservation laws of every stripe were routinely ignored by Canadian and New England fishermen during the 1870s and 1880s, as lobster stocks continued to shrink."
--The Mortal Sea: Fishing the Atlantic in the Age of Sail by W. Jeffrey Bolster

With seafood sustainability, we must be ever vigilant and cannot stop assessing and studying stock levels, even when it seems levels are highly positive. Seafood populations are subject to many variables, and not all of them are within our control. We must do our best to ensure their sustainability and future growth, which means constant vigilance. The battle for sustainability will never end, though we may win a number of smaller conflicts.

"A generation of reckless harvesting during the middle of the nineteenth century had driven to its knees one of Maine’s most valuable fisheries,..."
--The Mortal Sea: Fishing the Atlantic in the Age of Sail by W. Jeffrey Bolster

Rant: The Dark Secret Of Beer & Wine Love

Why do you enjoy beer and wine? And be honest.

Check the beer and wine reviews that you find in magazines, newspapers, blogs, and other websites. Ask your friends and family. Speak to the staff at beer & wine stores. I bet the vast majority of them will describe the various flavors you find in those beverages. For example, they might describe the hoppy flavors of an IPA or the cherry tastes of a Chianti. Some will even rhapsodize with a lengthy litany of aromas and flavors they discern in these beverages, sometimes using descriptors which seem to make little sense to other drinkers.

In all those descriptions though, one important element is usually omitted, possibly a legacy of our puritanical heritage. It is the dark secret of beer and wine consumption, that aspect we dare not speak aloud. However, it is a secret most of us share, and it makes little sense to conceal it. We shouldn't deny the reality of our drinking.

Be honest. You can do it. We all know that you enjoy beer and wine because it contains alcohol. You like that apparent sense of euphoria provided by alcohol. You revel in how alcohol makes you feel, altering your perception. Frankly, you probably wouldn't be drinking beer and wine if it didn't include alcohol. When is the last time you drank a non-alcoholic beer or wine? How often do you consume non-alcoholic beer or wine?

While reading beer and wine reviews, you might see a brief mention of the alcoholic content of that beverage but the reviewer won't discuss the effects of the alcohol. Some writers complain about high alcoholic wines but those same writers don't admit that they actually enjoy how alcohol makes them feel. Maybe we should talk about this subject more, to stop hiding it in the shadows. It is an important element of what we drink so there is no need to deny it.

It probably doesn't seem like proper etiquette to discuss our enjoyment of the effects of alcohol. It seems more refined to discuss the various aromas and tastes rather than explore how the alcohol affected us. If we discuss our enjoyment of the effects of alcohol, we might be perceived by others as having a problem. Those who actually discuss such effects, like Anthony Bourdain, are usually seen as rebels and bad boys. However, as so many people actually enjoy the effects of alcohol, it should be the norm to openly discuss it. It shouldn't be perceived as bad.

If the alcohol didn't matter, then non-alcoholic beer and wine would be hugely popular. And though the popularity of non-alcoholic beer has grown over the last five years, its popularity is greatest in regions like the Middle East. In the U.S., nonalcoholic beer and wine is still a tiny niche market. So step up and admit the truth, that you drink wine and beer, in part, because you like the effects of alcohol. It certainly is not the only reason we enjoy these beverages, but it plays a significant factor. And maybe by discussing it, we can better avoid problems with the abuse of alcohol.

AKA Bistro Reopened: First Impressions

As I reported previously, AKA Bistro, one of my favorite suburban restaurants reopened last week, after being closed for a few months due a massive flood. Located in Lincoln, AKA Bistro serves both French bistro fare and Japanese cuisine and their menu has seen some changes. You still can find old favorites like their Homemade Traditional Miso Soup and Moules Frites, but you will also find new dishes that might become new favorites. I should also mention that Chef/Co-Owner Chris Chung is now responsible for 100% of what's served.

Earlier this week, I stopped by for lunch, to see the new renovations and check out some of the new menu items. The restaurant itself looks largely the same, with some changes to the kitchen area. You can sit inside, or on the exterior patio. As I perused the menu, there were plenty of dishes I was interested in trying, so I definitely need to return to check out more.

I began with one of the new Appetizers, the Spicy Steamed Clams In A Jar ($10), which is a large mason jar with small and plump steamed clams in a savory broth with basil, lemongrass, Thai chile and lime. The tender clams were cooked perfectly, and the broth was compelling, with lots of flavor and a hint of almost sweetness. The broth in their Mussels dish is one of my favorites, and the the broth with their clams, though different, is equally as good. They even give you a straw so you can drink up the broth once the clams are gone. My preference though is to dip bread into the broth. This is a winner of a new dish!

As an Entree, I chose the Sautéed Sliced Angus Beef Bowl ($16), with kabayaki carrot and onion on top of Japanese rice. There was plenty of tender beef, and the carrots added a nice, sweet crunch to the dish. This is intended to be one of their more healthy new dishes, and it makes a good selection.

AKA Bistro has returned, and its food is as delicious as ever, with plenty of new and interesting dishes. I certainly will be returning, for lunch, dinner and brunch, but I have faith the restaurant is not going to disappoint. I strongly urge my readers to check it out.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting wine and food items that are upcoming. **********************************************************
1) Owner & Chef Brian Poe is springing into the season with the launch of new menu items at The Tip Tap Room in Beacon Hill. Chef Poe’s updated menu incorporates the peak flavors of the season and a new twist to his signature “tips” and “taps” concept. To cater to diners with a gluten intolerance, Chef Poe also has created a dedicated menu full of gluten-free selections which are annotated below (GF).

For appetizers, Chef Poe now will serve up a quartet of new options including: Grilled Avocado (with lobster in black pepper lavender crème fraiche - $13.95; GF); Fried Calamari (beef tendon, licorice glacé, spring vegetables, preserved lemon yogurt - $12.95); Grilled Georgia Shrimp (roasted hazelnuts, shaved button mushrooms, broken egg & pine vinaigrette, mustard blossoms - $16.95; GF); and, Burratta (vadouvan crusted, pickled green tomatoes, arugula blossoms, mustard oil, white balsamic vinegar, miner’s lettuce -$12.95).

Moving onto the next course, there are two new gourmet salads and three new entrée options available in addition to many selections of “tips.” Highlights include: Chicken & Arugula Salad (sumac-honey ricotta, muscat grape, grilled radishes, green almond, butermilk-espellette dressing - $12.95; GF); Poached Pear Salad (vanilla & orange poached Bosc pears, stone ground mustard sage vinaigrette, raisins, toasted walnuts, Bardwell Farm Pawlet cheese - $11.95; GF); Cod (miso-marinated with sweet and sour pickled beach mushrooms, daikon & scallions in a coconut and ginger broth - $23.95); Buttermilk Chive Gnocchi (shallot cream, fried bacalao, chickpeas, red jalapeño puree, parmigiano reggiano - $21.95); and, Wagyu Flank Steak (sweet peas & seven bacon risotto, fava bean, mushroom & seven bacon salsa, wild rapini, cabernet lemon reduction - $26.95).

Other soup and side newcomers include: Spring Pea Soup (buttermilk, vanilla infused pearl onions, sorrel, pork belly crouton - $12.95); Applewood Smoked Baby Carrots (cognac, goat butter, grilled blood orange - $6.95; GF); Roasted Potatoes & Spring Onion (sweet onion puree, greens - $6.95; GF); Grilled California Asparagus (parmesan emulsion, 7 bacons, candied lemon - $6.95; GF); and, Wild Mushrooms & Fiddlehead Ferns (soy-honey - $6.95).

Available at lunch and dinner, Chef Poe will continue to serve up his seven signature “tips” selections with refreshed accompaniments, his nightly rotating wild game specials and other Tip Tap classics.

2) Heritage Museums & Gardens unveils this season’s newest exhibit – David Rogers’ Big Bugs on Saturday, May 31, from 10am-6pm.

Sculptor David Rogers creates insects such as 25-foot long ants and dragonflies with 17-foot wingspans, using various combinations of whole trees, cut green saplings, dry branches, and other forest materials. All wood is found dead or harvested sustainably. The inherent uniqueness of these materials, their different shapes, colors and textures provide these sculptures with their character, definition and a sense of motion. The effect is a role reversal of dimension and perception.

The Big Bugs at Heritage will include: three ants, a dragonfly and a damselfly, an assassin bug, a praying mantis, a spider on a web, a ladybug and a Daddy Longlegs, all placed in interesting landscape settings throughout the grounds.

A full day of insect-themed activities planned to celebrate the opening of this eye-popping exhibit, including:
· Bug Tasting with David George Gordon, The Bug Chef: 11 am, 1 pm, 3 pm. The nationally acclaimed author of The Eat a Bug Cookbook will offer cooking demonstrations and tastings of his recipes including, of course, bugs! Fee (includes museum admission): $20 Members, $35 Non-Members
· Meet the Artist: 10:30 am, 3 pm, 4 pm. Meet David Rogers, and learn how he created the sculptures in the exhibit.
· Bug Ball: 12 pm-4 pm. Create a bug mask, use costume elements and puppets, mimic insect moves, and join the dance party on the Hidden Hollow stage.
· Crafty Critters: 10 am-2 pm. Make your own interesting insects to take home.
· Insect Exploration: 10 am-6 pm. Learn how insects use camouflage to survive and thrive, see insectivorous plants in action, discover mounted displays of bugs that live at Heritage, and more as you explore an insect theme through various activities in Hidden Hollow.
· Insect Safari: 10 am-6 pm. Visitors will be challenged to visit each of the ten sculptures and will learn fun facts about the insects depicted at each.

David Rogers’ Big Bugs opens on May 31and runs until October 26, 2014.

3) After ten years of delighting diners with their modern, farm-driven cuisine at their restaurant Farmstead, Inc. in Providence, Rhode Island, Chef and Owners Matt and Kate Jennings are returning to their hometown of Boston and planning a new restaurant in the city where they grew up, met and began their culinary careers.

The Jennings have set their homecoming sights on the new Radian building at 120 Kingston Street where they will open Townsman in late 2014. Defined as “native to a place,” Townsman will showcase Matt & Kate’s personal approach to dining and hospitality in their new, but familiar community of Downtown Boston.

Due to the enormity of the undertaking, the Jennings have decided to sell their acclaimed Providence bistro and storefront, closing the doors on June 1st. “When Kate and I moved to Rhode Island and opened Farmstead, we knew that we would one day return home to raise our children near our family and friends in Boston. We are forever indebted to all of our loyal guests who helped us build Farmstead into the beloved destination it has become for so many,” said Matt Jennings. “Based on how deeply involved we have been at Farmstead from the very beginning, we knew that keeping our Providence spot open and spreading ourselves across two states would never work for us, our staff and most importantly our guests. We will certainly cherish the memories at Wayland Square and hope that our many Farmstead friends will visit us often at Townsman.”

This is certainly big news, a great win for Boston and a loss for Rhode Island. I eagerly look forward to the debut of Townsman later this years.

4) The Fruit Center in Hingham loves outdoor grilling season, and so do professional cooks. So, beginning next month, some of the region’s most beloved restaurant chefs will strut their stuff with a series of al fresco grilling demonstrations in Fruit Center’s Water Street parking lot every other Saturday, —rain or shine, from 11:30 AM to 1 PM during June and July. These culinary events are open to all shoppers and are free of charge.

“The line-up of Chefs includes:

Saturday, June 7
Stephen Sherman
Executive Chef, Scarlet Oak Tavern, Hingham
Saturday, June 21 
Brett Williams
Chef-Owner, Orta, Pembroke
Saturday, July 12 
Andrea Schnell
Chef, Square Café’, Hingham

5) On June 4, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Framingham will host a wine dinner with Fine Estates from Spain. Importer and merchant, Jorge Ordoñez, imports Spain's largest wine portfolio to America and provides a balanced spectrum of what he believes to be the best Spanish wines available in America. Ordóñez takes great pride in discovering, reintroducing and developing a wide array of varietals. Legal Sea Foods will team up with Ordóñez to host an exclusive four-plus-course dinner fwith his selections from the Fine Estates from Spain vine.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Scallop Ceviche (Apple, Pomegranate Seeds, Sweet Basil)
La Cana Albariño, Rias Baixas, 2012
FIRST COURSE
Sole & Lobster Mousse (Baby Pea Shoots, Saffron-Vanilla Vinaigrette)
Nisia “Old Vines” Verdejo, Rueda, 2012
Avancia “Cuvée de O” Godello, Valdeorras, 2012
SECOND COURSE
Grilled Swordfish (Dried Chorizo, Wild Mushrooms, Pine Nuts, Smoked Tomato Vinaigrette)
Borsao “Tres Picos” Garnacha, Campo de Borja, 2012
Volver “Single Vineyard” Tempranillo, La Mancha, 2011
THIRD COURSE
Pepper Crusted Salmon (Grilled Clams, Ibérico Ham, Spinach, Garlic-Cilantro Chimichurri Sauce)
Zerran, Montsant, 2011
Muga Reserva, Rioja, 2009
DESSERT COURSE
Baked Citrus Custard (Salted Almond Praline, Orange-Mint Glaze) Jorge Ordóñez “Victoria No. 2,” Málaga

COST: $75 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

Planeta Wines: More Indigenous Treasures of Sicily

Some wine lovers possess a misconception about the wines of Sicily, believing that they are all essentially the same, that Sicily possesses a singular terroir. However, why should that be the case? Sicily, which covers nearly 10,000 square miles, is the largest island in the Mediterranean Sea. It is roughly equivalent in size to the Champagne region of France, and is about four times larger than the combined size of Sonoma and Napa counties. Its size alone should be a significant clue that Sicily likely possesses multiple terroirs, a land with a variety of soil types and microclimates.

That was made even more clear at a recent media tasting of some Sicilian wines produced by Planeta Wines. Back in October 2012, I attended a previous Planeta tasting, finding much to enjoy in their wines produced from indigenous Italian grapes, from Carricante to Nerelo Mascelese. Please see that post for some basic information about Planeta.

The recent tasting was at a luncheon held at Meritage Restaurant, Chef Daniel Bruce's famed restaurant at the Boston Harbor Hotel. It happened to be a beautiful and sunny day, so we had a great view of Boston harbor during our lunch. Planeta Wines was represented by three women, including Francesca Planeta (one of the owners), Patricia Toth (winemaker) and Penny Murray (export director). They also chose to highlight wines from two different wineries, each from a different DOC, Noto and Vittoria. Though they own 6 wine estates, each is still a small, artisan operation. Though some Planeta wines are now available, in September, they will be launching a full line of their new wines in the U.S.

Francesca Planeta, who was both personable and knowledgeable, gave an introductory speech about Planeta, stating that they desire to create wines that represent diversity and terroir. She wanted to stress that not all of Sicily is the same, that there are multiple terroirs creating different wines. Sicily also has over 20 local grape varieties, which adds to the diversity. Francesca sat at my table during lunch so she spoke more in depth about some of the terroir differences of the wines we were tasting.

The DOCs of Noto and Vittoria each possesses a different terroir, with white calcareous soil common in Noto while Vittoria soil commonly has red sand. Both estates are also at low elevations. Their Noto estate covers about 60 hectares, and they primarily grow Nero d'Avola and Moscato Bianco. In Vittoria, they rebuilt a 100 year old winery, and primarily grow Nero d'Avola and Frappato.

While enjoying some passed hors d'oeuvre, we sipped the first wine, the 2013 Planeta Moscato di Noto DOC ($21.99). This wine is made from 100% Moscato Bianco and it is fermented and aged in stainless steel. This is a dry wine, not the sweet Moscato that is so popular right now. It is very aromatic, with a complex blend of floral, citrus, vanilla and more. On the palate, it is crisp and full bodied, with an intriguing melange of flavors. A nice apertif.

As we sat down for lunch, our first course was a Maine Lobster & Monkfish Brodetto, with a Saffron & Tomato Aioli Topped Grilled Crostini. The savory broth was tasty, and enhanced the sweet lobster meat and tender monkfish. A tasty way to start our meal.

With this dish, we had three wines, including the 2013 Planeta Frappato DOC Vittoria ($21-$22), which won't be released in the U.S. until around September. I like the Frappato grape, and this example was impressive. It was a light bodied wine, with floral and red fruit aromas, and a light red color. On the palate, there was a delicious blend of red fruit, smokiness, mild spice and some minerality. It is an easy drinking wine with character, and paired well with seafood. Those who like Pinot Noir will probably also enjoy Frappato.

The only DOCG, the highest level of appellation. in Sicily is currently Cerasuolo di Vittoria, a blend of Nero d'Avola and Frappato. The Italian term "cerasuolo" means "cherry red," reflective of the usual color of the wine. This wine can also qualify as Classico if it is aged at least 18 months.

The 2011 Planeta Cerasuolo Di Vittoria DOCG ($23.99) is a blend of 60% Nero d'Avola and 40% Frappato. It was light bodied and fresh, with bright cherry and strawberry flavors, and smoky accents, with a hint of licorice. An easy drinking wine, it still possesses character and complexity. The 2011 Planeta Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Dorilli DOCG ($32.99) is a blend of 70% Nero d'Avola and 30% Frappato. The Dorilli estate, named after the Dorilli River, is located close to land which once was owned by the Planetas’ paternal grandmother. It is a Classico, and I found it more full bodied, though still with mild tannins. The flavors were more complex, with subdued red fruit, a spicy backbone and a lengthy,pleasing finish. An excellent wine which I strongly recommend.

Last year, I tasted the 2010 and 2004 vintages of Planeta Cerasuolo, and the 2004 was superb, showing its potential for aging.

Our main course was a combination of Slow Roasted Long Island Duck and Foie Gras Filled Ravioli, with Wild Rapini Greens and Melted Fennel. A superb dish, with such decadent ravioli and duck that was cooked perfectly. Delicate pasta, silky foie, tender duck. Chef Bruce knocked it out of the park with this dish.

With the duck and ravioli, we drank the 2009 Planeta Santa Cecilia Nero d'Avola, DOC Noto, ($41.99), made from 100% Nero d'Avola. It was a more powerful wine, with moderate tannins, dark fruit flavors, a mild spiciness and a very long finish. Delicious and compelling, this was another excellent wine from Planeta. I previously tasted the 2005 and 2007 vintages, which gave me some indication of this wine's potential for aging.

Dessert was a Contemporary Carrot Cake with Roasted Pineapples & Toasted Walnuts. If you look at the photo, you might wonder where the carrot cake is located. However, it is just below the hemisphere, which is composed of a creamy and sweet mix, which didn't taste like cream cheese in the least. It was sweet and creamy, and sat upon a moist carrot cake. This has to be the best carrot cake dish I have eaten in years. The walnuts and pineapple enhanced the dish, and I could easily have devoured another one.

The final wine was the 2010 Planeta Passito Di Noto DOC, ($40.99/500ml), which is made from 100% Moscato Bianco. With a fine golden color, it presents an alluring aroma of dried fruit, honey and floral elements. On the palate, it possesses concentrated and complex flavors of citrus, melon, dried fruit and honey, with plenty of acidity which means it only presents a mild, balanced sweetness. A tasty way to end out lunch.

Sicilian wines are starting to get the attention they deserve in the U.S. so you can expect to find them more readily available at your local wine shop. Remember that Sicily possesses multiple terroirs, and that you will find plenty of diversity in the wines of this large island. When seeking Sicilian wines, you definitely should check out the wines of Planeta, especially those which use Italian indigenous grapes. Though they own multiple estates, they still are more of an artisan producer, and are creating some compelling wines.