Sake News

Kanpai! Here is another short list of some of the interesting Sake articles that have been published lately. It is great to see more and more coverage for Sake, though I recommend that anyone seeking to publish a Sake article check it at least a few times for accuracy. A few basic errors continue showing up in introductory Sake articles, and those errors would be easy to eliminate if you had a knowledgeable Sake person check your facts. Let us also hope that we see more than just introductory Sake articles in the future. Sake has many depths and all those varied facets make great material for articles.

1) Sake on the auction block? In Billionaire and Stir Public Relations, there are new articles mentioning that on June 10, an auction was to be held by Acker, Merrall & Condit (AMC) in Hong Kong. As a first, four Sakes were added to the auction list, all which had scored highly in the Wine Advocate. The four Sakes included Kameno-O Sannen Jukusei Daiginjo (98 points), Iwanoi Yamahai Junmai Daiginjo (95 points), Kinteki Junmai Ginjo (91 points) and Manazuru Junmai Daiginjo (90 points). The first two Sakes are estimated to garner from $1,000 to $3,200 each. The AMC site hasn't listed the winning bids yet.

Are these collectibles which will acquire the same cachet as fine Bordeaux or Burgundy? I think that is very unlikely as Sake isn't generally produced to be aged. For most Sake, it will last about a year or so after release. If these Sakes at auction are purchased, they would need to be consumed in a relatively short time period unlike fine Bordeaux and Burgundy. You couldn't store this Sake in your cellar for ten years and be certain it would still be palatable. Sure, there will be plenty of wealthy people who purchase these Sakes right now, just because they received high points and are seen as desirable, but once they realize it can't age well, then maybe the desire for such expensive bottles will diminish.

2) Ice cold Sake for the summer? The Mainichi has published an article about a new Sake that is supposed to be served at a sub-zero temperature. Ishii Shuzo Co. produced this Sake which will be sold with a special cooler bag intended to keeps the Sake at a temperature of minus 2 degrees Celsius. The Sake, a Junmai Ginjo, is referred to as yukidoke ("melting snow") as allegedly the Sake in your mouth will remind you of melting snow. Sake consumption in Japan declines during the summer so the brewery wanted to do something to combat that decline. This Sake, which goes on sale in July, will cost about $60 U.S. but appears that it will only be available in Japan. I am intrigued though it is going to be difficult to acquire one of these unique bottles.

3) A Sake brewery in the UK? Southwark News has reported that the first Sake brewery in the U.K. is set to open soon. Named Kanpai, the brewery is owned by Lucy Holmes and Tom Wilson, who will soon get married to each other. Their first batch of Sake will be about 600-700 bottles and will be available at the Selfridges department store and the Hop Burns and Black Craft Pub. They will start with a Junmai and a Nigori, and also are attempting to crowd fund for additional monies for their brewery. It is exciting to see new Sake breweries sprouting up around the world.

4) A Sake brewery in France? The Asahi Shimbun reports that two French brothers, Christophe and Stephane Fernandez, are currently working at the Komatsu Syuzoujou Sake brewery in Usa’s Nagasu district in the northeastern part of the Kyushu region. As they learn about how to brew Sake, their ultimate goal is to produce Sake in France using French rice next winter. The Sake they have started making in April should be available in France in the fall. "They aim to create a sweet and sour taste with 13-percent alcohol content, relatively low for sake, for their “junmaishu” that will go well with cheese and dessert." Seems Europe is seeing a small boom in new Sake breweries.

Rant: TasteCamp, Summer Travel & Local Beverages

As you start to plan your summer travel, deciding which places to visit, please give strong consideration to visiting local wineries, distilleries, breweries, cideries and meaderies. Frankly, many people don't realize the number of these alcohol producers even in their own state. For example, as of 2015 in Massachusetts, there were approximately 55 licensed-farm wineries, 15 hard-cider producers, over 60 breweries, and about 20 distilleries.

Did you realize Massachusetts has that many producers? How many of those producers have you visited? How many of those producers have you tasted their products?

There are now wineries in all fifty states, and the vast majority also have numerous distilleries, breweries, cideries and meaderies. It is a great time for those who enjoy alcoholic beverages, so much new to explore and taste. No matter where you travel, you'll find some interesting producers you can visit, sampling their drinks. On your vacation, spend time visiting historical sites, enjoying the landscape, and dining out. However, leave yourself a little time to explore these exciting, local produced beverages.

I know that some people worry that these producers, especially the wineries, might not be very good, that they make inferior beverages. However, I think that if you explore deeper, if you sample from a number of these producers, you might be very surprised at the quality you can find. And every year, producers all across the country up their game, creating even better beverages than prior years. Don't prejudge these producers but approach them with an open mind, and let your palate judge the quality of their drinks.

Yesterday, I returned from a weekend visit to Maryland where I, and about 30 others, attended TasteCamp 2017. The concept of TasteCamp was created by Lenn Thompson, of the The Cork Report, back in 2009, and it consists of a weekend immersion into a lesser known wine region, outside of the big wine states like California, Washington and Oregon. We have previously visited places including Long Island, the Finger Lakes, Quebec, Virginia, Niagara and Vermont. Attendees come from both the U.S. and Canada, and though many of the attendees are from the East Coast, some attendees come from as far as California.

At TasteCamp, attendees visit a variety of producers, tour vineyards, taste dozens of wines, dine on local foods and holds an exciting BYOB dinner. The basic concept has evolved over time so that it is no longer limited to wine, now also including beers, ciders, meads and spirits. A key principle for TasteCamp is "drink local," consuming products that are locally produced, usually from local ingredients. There is little reason to limit ourselves to wine when local producers are making so many other interesting and tasty beverages too. This is a great example of what I meant when I wrote my prior Rant: Drink Writers, Burst Your Bubble.

Though TasteCamp usually has a few, limited sponsors, the attendees shoulder the lion's share of expenses for the trip, including their transportation, lodging and some meals. This year, we owe a debt of gratitude to Maryland Wine, Maryland Distillers Guild and Brewers Association of Maryland. With its limited size, TasteCamp is a more intimate event, allowing you to get to know everyone in the group, reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones too. The focus of the event is on tasting, both food and drink, and there aren't any seminars or events about writing, blogging, photography, or similar activities.

I previously attended a wine conference in Maryland back in 2013, learning that Maryland wines had an image problem, including among many of its residents. I found that numerous people still didn't fully understand the quality of wines that Maryland produced. Some felt that Maryland made only sweet wines. However, I tasted a number of excellent wines, seeing the potential in Maryland and it was great to learn more about the various wineries which were seeking to produce quality wine. And this past weekend, I found that the Maryland wine industry has improved in the last four years and is providing even more fascinating and delicious wines, as well as other excellent alcoholic beverages.

Some of the highlights of TasteCamp included: Wines from Old Westminster Winery, Black Ankle Vineyards, and Big Cork Vineyards; Spirits from McClintock Distilling Company and Tenth Ward Distilling Company; and Mead from Orchid Cellar Meadery. And I know I still missed tasting excellent products from some other Maryland producers. During the next few weeks, I'll be writing about my experiences, highlighting some of the best I encountered. Maryland is certainly a compelling destination for those who want to explore delicious and interesting wines, spirits, beers, and more.

TasteCamp helps to illustrate the belief that liquid wonders can be found in many local regions all across the country. In all of the regions we have explored, we have found plenty of interest and each spot would make for a compelling vacation destination. Throw away your preconceptions about the wine and drink industries in various states and be adventurous, gaining first-hand experience of what these local producers are creating. You might not like everything you find, but I'm sure you will be surprised at the quality and diversity you find, and will also locate some treasures which will delight your palate.

Be adventurous. Expand your palate and sample something new. Explore local drink producers.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Now in its milestone 20th year, Chefs in Shorts brings together a group of the area’s top culinary talents who fire up the grills and create their best dishes during this expansive outdoor, summer-in-the-city barbeque hosted at the Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center. Join some of Boston’s best chefs on June 23 for an evening of grill-offs, desserts, beer, wine and fun to again benefit Future Chefs, a local nonprofit focused on first careers in the culinary arts. Attendees also will have the opportunity to vote for their favorite creation.

This year’s featured chefs include the following:
Host Chefs:
Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center: Karen Hodsdon, Pastry Chef
Seaport Hotel & World Trade Center: Richard Rayment, Executive Chef
TAMO Bistro + Bar at the Seaport Hotel: Robert Tobin, Chef

Participating Chefs & Venues:
Aloft-Element Boston Seaport Hotel: Darren Sylvin
Artbar: Brian Dandro
Babbo: Mario LaPosta
Back Deck: Paul Sussman
Bar Boulud: Robert Differ
BOND at The Langham, Boston: Mark Sapienza
Brasserie JO: Nicholas Calias
Cask ‘n Flagon: Paul Bushell
Coppersmith: Jason Heard
Deuxave: Shaun Velez
District 45: Julia Slowinski
Earls Kitchen + Bar: Nick Hrynkiw
Five Horses Tavern: Beth Schunke
Flour Bakery + Café: Frank Francione
Future Chefs: Jason Carpenter
Harvard Club Boston: Dean Moore
Kashmir: Harjit Pabla
La Casa de Pedro: Stephanie Conni
LaVallee’s Bakery: Andy LaVallee
Local 149: Corey O’Shea
LTK Bar and Kitchen: Patrick Keefe
Lulu’s Allston: Sarah Wade
Oak & Rowan: Brittany Ross & Justin Shoults
Ocean Prime: Mitchell Brumels
Philip R’s Frozen Desserts: Philip Rotondo
Precinct Kitchen + Bar: Matt Sentas
Salty Pig: Joshua Turka
Sapore Ristorante + Bar: Wallace Christopher
Scampo at The Liberty Hotel: Alex Pineda
Serafina: Brendan Burke
Tavolo: Alex Horowitz
Tip Tap Room & Bukowski Tavern: Brian Poe
Top of the Hub: Stefan Jarausch
TRADE: Kimmy Jaski
Verde Farms: Cassie Marantz
W Boston: Derek Barragan
Worden Hall: Milton Barahona

Additionally, revelers will be treated to tastes from celebrity chef Allen Campbell as well as Backyard Farms, Eva’s Pastries and Pete & Gerry’s Organic Eggs.

WHEN: Friday, June 23, from 7:00pm-10:00pm
COST: $90 per person (includes admission with complimentary beer, wine and culinary tastings)
TICKETS: Advance tickets are required: https://chefsinshorts2017.eventbrite.com. Tickets will not be available at the door.
MORE INFO: This event is strictly ages 21+ and requires proper identification.
BENEFICIARY: Future Chefs’ mission is to prepare urban youth in Greater Boston for quality early employment and post-secondary education opportunities in the culinary field and to support them in developing a broad base of transferable skills as they transition into the working world.

2) This summer, Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse in Boston’s Back Bay will offer homemade, booze-infused ice pops, paired with Prosecco or Rosé Sparkling Wine. Perfect to enjoy on a hot and sunny afternoon, these summer treats with an adults-only twist have never tasted so good. Pastry Chef Tom Ponticelli has prepared flavors such as the Raspberry, Peach, Rosé and Blueberry, Lime, Prosecco. Available for a limited time only at Davio’s Boston from June 21st to August 31st.

COST: The Davio’s Boozy Ice Pops are available for $15 each.
Must be 21 to purchase or consume alcoholic beverages with a valid ID.

3) Executive Chef Nick Calias’ summer series, roofTOP Chefs, returns to The Colonnade Hotel’s RTP every other Tuesday, beginning June 13. The casual cookout-style, poolside tasting pop-up will once again donate 100% of ticket sales ($30 per person) to Share Our Strength No Kid Hungry. Each chef will make their own tasting menu of 2-4 dishes, with a complementing dish from Chef Calias.

Attendees get to soak up the sun, hang out with the chefs, sample small bites and enjoy full access to Boston’s only outdoor rooftop pool, which sits 12 stories above the streets of Back Bay. Tickets are available at rooftopchefs.eventbrite.com

The roster of guests chefs features:
June 13: Jason Santos, Abby Lane, Back Bay Harry's, Buttermilk & Bourbon
June 27: Karen Akunowicz, Myers+Chang
July 11: Julie Cutting, Cure Bistro
July 25: Tony Maws, Kirkland Tap & Trotter, Craigie on Main
August 8: Rich Garcia, Crescent Hotels
August 18: Josh Ziskin, La Morra, The Heritage of Sherborn
August 29: Fred Bisaillon, B-ACK Yard BBQ, Surfside Smoke
September 5: Matt Drummond, Loco
September 12: Jen Royle, Dare to Taste

4) Executive Chef Matt Drummond, recently appointed Bar Manager Kaitlyn Fischer and the Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar team are introducing summer Rum Punch Lunch. Southie’s funky neighborhood taco joint is bringing back their popular summer Friday lunch tradition, but with a boozy new twist – the Rum Punch Lunch. Guests can enjoy inventive Rum Punch specials each week, like Watermelon and Pineapple Punch Bowls, created by beverage maven Kaitlyn Fischer and served in a hollowed watermelon.

Rum Punch Lunch is the new weekly excuse to skip out of work early and jumpstart the weekend. In addition to an lineup of Loco’s signature tacos, fresh raw bar items, and killer margaritas, the Rum Punch specials are available exclusively during Friday lunch service (11:30 a.m. – 4:00 p.m.).

For additional details, call 617-917-LOCO

Rant: Total Wine, Low Prices & Consumers

"In every configuration, on every level, Hamilton had designed the law to charge small producers who could least afford it a higher tax. And the most significant effect of the higher tax was that it would, as Hamilton said, have to be passed on to consumers. Small producers would have to raise prices. Big producers could lower prices, sharply underselling the small distillers, taking over their customers, ultimately driving small producers out of business. Closing down local whiskey economies, the whiskey tax pushed self-employed farmers and artisans into the factories of their creditors."
--The Whiskey Rebellion by William Hogeland

I've been fascinated while reading The Whiskey Rebellion, a history of the infamous Whiskey Tax. In addition, I've seen parallels to some of the current issues facing the alcohol industry, on both a national level as well as in more locally in Massachusetts. Locally, there is a battle currently being waged between large alcohol retailers and the small ones, with economic survival on the line. And with the potential advent in changes to the current alcohol laws in Massachusetts, we are unsure how those changes will ultimately affect all of the various retailers.

A new Alcohol Task Force recently held their first public meeting, and the purpose of this task force is it to "examine the legal and regulatory framework governing the alcoholic beverage industry in the Commonwealth of Massachusetts." Six public hearings were to be conducted, and three have already been held. In addition, interested parties can submit their concerns, suggestions, or recommendations directly to the Task Force. Many would agree that some Massachusetts alcohol laws should be changed, but there may be less agreement on which ones need changing.

One of those interested parties is Total Wine & More, a large national chain of alcohol retail stores, which is pushing their own agenda, including through the creation of Consumers First, to promote their concerns. Based on that website, there are two basic issues they wish changed, cumulative quantity discounts and alcohol coupons. At its most basic, they simply want more ways to reduce their prices so that they can attract more consumers.

Despite the name of their website, I get the impression that it is more about "Total Wine First" rather than consumers. The only two issues they have highlighted will greatly benefit them, giving them a larger economic advantage over other alcohol, smaller retailers. If it were truly about "consumers first," then I would expect to see a wider range of topics addressed, and not just the two that will most benefit Total Wine. Just seems too self-serving for me.

With approximately 170 Total Wine stores across the country, and the fact that approximately 85%+ of their stock at each of those stores is the same, it means they can purchase huge quantities of alcohol, acquiring much larger discounts than small, independent and local alcohol retailers can possibly achieve. That allows Total Wine to price some of their products at costs significantly lower than numerous other retailers, sometimes even lower than what those smaller stores pay for wholesale. The two issues Total Wine wants changed would only widen that economic gap.

If you take the time to compare prices at Total Wine with other local wine stores, you will find that not all Total Wine prices are lower than other retailers. However, on some of the largest and most popular brands, Total Wine has incredibly low prices, which seem geared to lure customers into the store, with the hope they buy other products which provide a higher profit margin. When I toured the Everett store, I was informed that their average customer spends over $100 per visit.

People don't just stop by Total Wine for a single bottle of wine as they might do at a smaller retail store. Total Wine understands that once they get someone inside the store, seeking that bargain bottle, the customer is very likely to buy much more than one bottle. The customer will stock up on alcohol, buying multiple bottles, if not cases.

We should then ask ourselves, how important is price to consumers?

There was some recent discussion on the topic of Total Wine and pricing on Facebook, begun by Charles Draghi, Chef/Owner of Erbaluce. I've been thinking about the issue of price and consumers for some time, not only for alcohol retailers but for restaurants as well. It seems to be a significant issue, and an area where consumers need much more education. It is easy to make one's decisions solely on price, opting for whatever is cheapest, yet that can be short-sighted, failing to consider all the other value that may exist at a higher cost.

To me, the best alcohol retail stores possess three key elements: a diverse & interesting selection, good service with knowledgeable staff, and reasonable pricing. Pricing is important but it shouldn't be the sole determinant of where you shop. You can't ignore the other two elements and you also have to understand exactly what you get for the price. As a caveat, we need to be cognizant that there are plenty of people who will shop based only on price, seeking the lowest they can find, and they are unlikely to change their stance. For the rest of us, we should try to think more about what those lower prices may entail. Our purchasing decisions can have a wide ranging impact.

For example, one of my most significant complaints about large alcohol retail chains like Total Wine is that they lack sufficient diversity. Because the stock in all their stores across the country is nearly the same, that means they have to purchase large, national or international brands, with significant production figures. Those are not the type of wines that generally interest me. You are extremely unlikely to find wine from small wineries at Total Wine as with their low production, they can't supply enough wine for Total Wine. As an aside, Total Wine's Sake selection is very poor too, as most Japanese breweries don't export to the U.S. in sufficient quantities to interest Total Wine.

The only way to find wines, beers, and spirits from such small wineries, breweries and distilleries, is at the smaller, more independent wine stores. We should cherish the diversity that is available at these retailers, expanding our palate beyond just the major national brands. In addition, by supporting these smaller alcohol retailers, you are giving your support to those smaller wineries, breweries and distilleries. They need your support, so they can continue to produce their interesting and diverse beverages. Total Wine doesn't support such small wineries, instead giving their primary support to very large wineries.

It is also the smaller retailers who can be at the forefront of new trends, introducing consumers to new and fascinating drinks. As an example, Georgian wines are quite hot right now though only about 25,000 cases of Georgian wine are currently exported to the U.S. Are you likely to find them at Total Wine? No, because Georgia doesn't export a sufficient quantity to interest Total Wine. The only place you will find Georgian wines are the independent retailers who cherish diversity.

If you want to find a fascinating and diverse selection of wines, you should check out places like Streetcar Wine & Beer, Social Wines, and The Wine Bottega. You will probably never see any of the wines they stock carried at Total Wine. By supporting these three wine shops, and others like them, you are supporting small, local businesses as well as the small wineries they patronize. And if you want a small, local discount wine store, check out Bin Ends Wine. You'll find excellent prices there along with a nice diversity of wines.

The wine world needs diversity, where both large and small wineries across the world can co-exist. A large chain of alcohol retail shops which neglects those small wineries does a major disservice. It fails to offer sufficient diversity to its customers and fails to introduce consumers to some of the hottest trends in the wine world. Consumers should not be driven by price alone, but should more carefully consider the reasons behind those low prices, and what they might be missing.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) The Boston-based restaurant group Legal Sea Foods has partnered with the Hyannis-born snack food company Cape Cod Potato Chips for a promotion that offers a fresh take on the traditional dish. Legal Sea Foods’ “Fish & Chips” promotion will launch on the first day of summer, June 21, and run through July 19 at their restaurant locations along the East Coast. Guests will get a taste of Cape Cod, literally as well as figuratively, as each dish is named for the fishhook-shaped peninsula and made with Cape Cod Potato Chips.

Guests will find some crunch with each munch when ordering any of the three features: Caped Crudo-sader Nachos ($14.95) is tuna crudo atop Cape Cod Potato Chips, peppadew peppers, chives, guacamole and sour cream. The Sandwich, Cape Cod ($13.95), named after the oldest town on the Cape, is a beer-battered cod sandwich with a Cape Cod Potato Chip coating, bacon, lettuce, tomato and chipotle mayonnaise. The Corn on the Cod ($22.95) is cod baked with Cape Cod Potato Chip crumbs, corn-roasted tomato relish and a carrot cucumber salad. All three dishes will be available at both lunch and dinner.

Legal Sea Foods’ executive chef Rich Vellante and his culinary team experimented with countless recipes and kinds of chips and, in the end, came up with dishes that highlighted both the versatility and flavor profile of the Original Cape Cod Potato Chip.

“The chefs at Legal have done a wonderful job in making three unique dishes incorporating our kettle-cooked potato chips. Summer never tasted so good,” said Rod Troni, senior vice president and chief marketing officer for Cape Cod Potato Chips.

“It’s a fun collaboration between two Massachusetts brands,” said Roger Berkowitz, president and CEO of Legal Sea Foods. “We’ll let the chips fall where they may, but we think our guests will really enjoy these dishes.”

All Legal Sea Foods restaurants (in MA, RI, NJ, PA, Washington DC, VA, GA) will offer the Cape-inspired menu features.

2) On Wednesday, June 14, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with selections from Craggy Range (Hawke’s Bay, New Zealand). Craggy Range Winery was established in 1997 when Australian businessman Terry Peabody visited New Zealand and was introduced to Master of Wine, Steve Smith. Terry, who had promised his family an enduring family wine legacy, sensed a new and exciting possibility in New Zealand with its exceptional climate and the spirit of the people. Together with Steve Smith, the men pursued the Single Vineyard Philosophy of winemaking (to select and source the best land and vineyards in the country, and to plant the vines perfectly suited to that terroir) and made Craggy Range the first in the Southern Hemisphere to adopt such an approach from multiple regions of the country. Under their leadership and guidance, Craggy Range has become one of the most technically advanced wineries ever built in New Zealand and is renowned for its uncompromising standards and meticulous craftsmanship.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Craggy Range’s wine ambassador, Janet Pouchot, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with her selections from the Craggy Range vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Pemaquid Oyster on the Half Shell, Champagne Mignonette
Georges Bank Sea Scallop Escabeche, Grilled Crostini
Marcona Almond Arancini, Honey Mustard Aioli
Craggy Range “Kidnappers Vineyard” Chardonnay, Hawke’s Bay, 2015
FIRST COURSE
Pan-Seared Icelandic Cod (watercress, baby arugula, orange segments, aged white wine balsamic vinaigrette)
Craggy Range “Te Muna Road Vineyard” Sauvignon Blanc, Martinborough, 2016
SECOND COURSE
Grilled Idaho Rainbow Trout (porcini mushrooms, Italian couscous salad, grilled artichoke relish)
Craggy Range “Te Muna Road Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Martinborough, 2012
Craggy Range “Calvert Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Bannockburn- Central Otago, 2007
MAIN COURSE
Tuna Steak Au Poivre (white bean & bitter greens ragout, black truffle compound butter)
Craggy Range “Te Kahu” Meritage Style Blend, Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawke’s Bay, 2011
Craggy Range “Sophia” Meritage Style Blend, Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawke’s Bay, 2013
CHEESE COURSE
Vermont Aged Gouda, California Aged Cheddar, France Brillat-Savarin (mixed Mediterranean olives, honeycomb, toasted baguette)
Craggy Range “Le Sol” Syrah, Gimblett Gravels Vineyard, Hawke’s Bay, 2013

COST: $110 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397