Bound For Croatia

"A record of almost 20 million tourists visited Croatia in 2018, announced the Croatian Tourist Board this week. This is 6.5% more than in 2017 and a new record in Croatian tourism history. Istria was the most popular region this year, followed by the Split, Kvarner, Zadar and Dubrovnik."
--TheMayor.eu

"In the first 8 months of 2019, 5% more tourists have visited Croatia than in the same period of the record-breaking 2018,..."
--Croatia Week

It seems that everywhere you look, Croatia is being showcased as the hot new tourist destination. The hugely popular TV series, Game of Thrones, has contributed to this popularity as a variety of scenes were shot in numerous locations in Croatia. Every week, it seems a different celebrity is seen vacationing in Croatia, basking on one of their beaches, dining in one of their restaurants, or appearing at some event. The growing, record-breaking number of tourists is indicative of the country's popularity.

The country has much to offer, from its pristine beaches to its ancient history, from its diverse cuisine to its historic wine industry. If you want a more active vacation, from water sports to hiking, Croatia can meet your needs. If you want a quieter time, you can spend your hours on the Croatian beaches. All you need to do is peruse some photos of beautiful Croatia and you'll feel a pull to visit.

Later this afternoon, I'll board a plane and fly off to Zagreb, the first stop on my exploration of the Republic of Croatia. I'll be accompanying a small group of writers and wine lovers as well explore this fascinating country, visiting numerous wineries, dining on the local cuisine, immersing ourselves in its culture, and delving its historic past. We have plans to visit places including Zagreb, Dubrovnik, Gradac, Split, Ston, Brac Island, and more. I'm obviously very excited to visit this country for the first time, and have spent the last few months researching much about Croatia.

For example, did you know "Croatia was the birthplace of the oldest documented European vampire?" Check out this article from Total Croatia News to learn more about that fun fact. Maybe I better ensure I eat plenty of garlic while I'm in Croatia.

Most of the trip is being sponsored by the K7 Cooperative, an association of seven wineries in the Komarna region, including Rizman Winery, Saints Hill Wines, Volarević Wines, Terra Madre, Modro-zelena, Neretvanski Branitelj and Deak Family Farm. K7 is working with Boston-based Croatian Premium Wine Imports, which is owned and operated by Mirena Bagur and Win Burke, wife and husband. Mirena (who is Croatian) and Win have recently started importing Croatian wines to Massachusetts and they will be our guides throughout most of our visit to Croatia.

Thus, many of the wines that I'll review and write about, in the weeks after my return from Croatia, are either available in Massachusetts now or will be in the future. Some Croatian wines have been previously imported by other companies, but they have remained relatively rare in wine shops and on restaurant lists. Mirena and Win have been working hard to make Croatian wines more available to local consumers, and they have also been leading a number of local tastings of Croatian wines. It is such passion which is needed to persuade consumers to taste and purchase Croatian wine.

Currently, four of the K7 wineries have wines in the Massachusetts market, and I've been fortunate to sample several of them, enjoying what I've tasted. Whites, Reds and Rosé. Indigenous grapes like Posip and Plavac Mali. A number of local restaurants and wine shops now carry these wines, although the public needs to learn more about them, to be given reasons why they should drink these wines. Two of the reasons include that these wines are delicious and food friendly.

The history of wine in Croatia extends back over 2500 years, with the Greeks and Romans responsible for much of the early viticulture. For example, the Stari Grad Plain, on the island of Hvar, was colonized by Greeks during the 4th century B.C. Vineyards have been continuously planted here for over 2400 consecutive years and it's now a UNESCO World Heritage site!

The Komarna Appellation is relatively new, having first been planted with vines in 2008 and having received its official designation as an appellation in 2013. We'll spend time exploring Komarna, visiting the K7 wineries. In addition, we'll also visit wineries in other regions of Croatia, such as Grgić Vina, which was established in 1996 by Napa Valley winemaker Miljenko Grgich and his daughter, Violet. In addition, we'll visit some historic sites, such as the Narona Archaeological Museum, Diocletian's Palace,  and a few sites where Game of Thrones was filmed.

Prior to this year, I've had only very limited experience with Croatian wine and food. I previously reviewed the 2010 Vinarija Dingac Peljesac, which ended up on my list of the 2014 Top Ten Wines Under $15. I also reviewed Paški Sir, a compelling Croatian cheese from the island of Pag.

I'll have a couple days on my own as well, mostly in Zagreb, so I'll be checking out whatever intrigues me, from a Lord of the Rings themed-pub to another Bar that specializes in rakijas, brandy spirits, from the Dolac Market to Cahun (an 80+ year old hat shop). I'll explore Tkalčićeva Street, which once was filled with brothels, the first legal red light district in Europe. FYI, those brothels no longer exist. Tkalčićeva Street is now filled with restaurants, shops and bars, and is one of the most popular streets in Zagreb.

Plus, on September 14, there will be a #WineLovers Hangout at the Pod Zidom Bistro & Wine Bar in Zagreb. Organized by Luiz Alberto, Saša Špiranec, and Ana Hozjan, this will be a BYOB dinner bringing together wine lovers from all over the world. What bottles will I bring to this dinner? I've already made my choice and I won't say yet but I'm sure no one else will bring a similar bottle.

I look forward to everything I'll experience in Croatia, and then I'll enjoy sharing my stories with my readers.

As they say in Croatia, Živjeli! ("Cheers")

“A writer who falls in love with a new and strange country will always find experience heightened in this way. The dawns are more noble, the crags loftier, the people more genuine, the food and wine more luscious....”
Black Lamb and Grey Falcon by Rebecca West

Rant: Wine Travel & Better Understanding

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.”
--St. Augustine

There are various levels of understanding to all subjects, including wine. You may know little about wine, a moderate amount or be an "expert." Your wine knowledge may derive from a book, an instructor, numerous tastings, or a combination of elements. Another source of information is travel to a wine region, which is an excellent way to gain further knowledge and understanding. With the advent of harvest season, this is a perfect time to visit a wine region, to immerse yourself in grapes and fermentation.

Though it may seem self-evident, it bears stating to ensure clarity: Visiting a wine region will likely deepen your comprehension of wine. To meet the wine makers, to walk through their vineyards, to immerse yourself in the region's culture, all can contribute to a deeper appreciation and knowledge of the area and its wines. To have the opportunity to question the staff of the winery, to obtain answers to matters which might have previously confused or puzzled you, can be invaluable. A winery's website may present their brief history and philosophy, but that is most often only the bare bones. There is much richer detail to be found by speaking directly to the people of the winery.

“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.”
--Henry Miller

I strongly encourage all wine lovers to visit wine regions, so that you can gain better comprehension and knowledge. Wine writers are especially urged to do so, to give you a better perspective. Travel can be a great experience for everyone, to broaden anyone's horizons. You could visit a Caribbean island, and sit on the beach all day relaxing. Or you could take a more educational vacation and visit places such as Spain, Oregon, Croatia, Paso Robles, Argentina, or Long Island, and explore their wines, cuisine, and more. If wine is your passion, then such a journey should call to your heart.

Before you visit a wine region, be sure to do some prior research, so that you aren't a blank slate when you arrive. You can then arrive with more informed questions, ones that cannot be answered simply by visiting the winery's website. When you get to the region, be proactive, asking questions, participating in as much as you can. If you are offered the opportunity to experience something different, like harvesting grapes or tasting something unusual, then take it. Try new foods, learn local customs, and have fun. Seize the moment and squeeze every ounce of knowledge and experience out of your trip.

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.”
--James Michener

There is no need to worry if your traveling budget is limited, just seek out wine regions and wineries more local to you. Every state in the U.S. now produces wine, and you are likely within driving distance of at least a few of them. That will give you options, and then you can save up for a larger trip out of the country, or even just to a different state. For example, Massachusetts has 30+ wineries, and many wineries from the rest of the New England states are only two to three hours away. The New York wineries are a slightly longer trip, but still very doable.

If you have visited a wine region, do you feel that it led to a better understanding of the region and its wines? What wine regions would you especially recommend?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) This week, Jyoti & Aaron Mehta are celebrating the First Anniversary of the opening of their Wine Press Fenway. This is the second location of their Wine Press shop, the first being in Brookline. To celebrate, the Wine Press Fenway is having a special sale this week, offering 15% off all of the wine in their shop (though only at the Fenway location).

In addition, there will be a few tastings this week too:
--Thursday, September 5, from 5:30pm-7:30pm: European Wines with Jackson
--Friday, September 6, from 5:30pm-7:30pm: There will be two tastings, the first with Citadelle Gin & Tonic. The other tasting is St. George Spirits with President & Master Distiller Lance Winters, who will also sign bottles.

2) Next month, from October 25th-27th, you might want to check out the 4th Annual White Mountains Crush Festival, held by the Seven Birches Winery at the RiverWalk Resort at Loon Mountain. The Festival celebrates the end of the harvest season and the start of the winemaking season. You can stomp grapes, sample wine, learn from their winemakers, eat, and more.

The scheduled events include:
Friday, October 25:
1pm – 10pm: Winery Open to Public
7pm – 9pm: Atrium Wine Bar Cocktail Welcome Mixer

Saturday, October 26:
12pm – 10pm: Winery Open to Public
9am: Educational Workshop #1 – “Varietal Wines vs. Blends”
10am, 11am, & 12pm: Meet the Winemakers Tour & Barrel Tasting
11am: Educational Workshop #2 – “Old world wine, new world fruit”
12pm – 4pm: Grape Stomping “I Love Lucy” style.
12pm – 3pm: Stompers Picnic, Lunch Provided
1pm – 4pm: Winemakers’ Wine Tasting in the Winery
6pm: Wine Dinner

Sunday, October 27:
11am – 9pm: Winery Open to Public
10am: Educational Workshop #3 - “Dispelling the oldest wine myths”

For more information and to purchase tickets, go to: https://sevenbirches.com/white-mountains-crush-festival/

3) On Wednesday, September 25th, starting at 6:00pm, Abe & Louie's Executive Chef Danny Levesque will use his culinary creativity to design a dining experience featuring savory dishes paired with wines from Château Caronne Sainte Gemme - a specially curated selection by Benjamin Appleby, Wine and Beverage Manager.

The menu is as follows:
Reception
Parmesan Cheese Crisps with Herbed Goat Cheese
Crispy Oysters with Avocado Mousse and Pepper Jelly
Sautéed Shrimp Skewers with Garlic, Tarragon and Lemon
Nueske Bacon Bites
Paired with: 2016 Château de Birot, Bordeaux Blanc de Birot
First Course
Local Rabbit Stew with Baby White Turnips, Kale and Juniper
Paired with: 2005 Château Caronne Sainte Gemme, Haut-Médoc
Second Course
Foraged Mushroom Risotto with Crisp Pancetta
Paired with: 2009 Château Caronne Sainte Gemme, Haut-Médoc
Entrée
Smoked Prime Rib with Watercress-Arugula Salad and Horseradish Cream
Paired with: 2010 & 2014 Château Caronne Sainte Gemme, Haut-Médoc
Dessert
Warm Local Apple Crisp with Vanilla Bean Ice Cream
Paired with: 2009 Château La Rame, Sainte-Croix-du-Mont

Seats to the special wine dinner are limited, cost $125 per guest (excluding tax and gratuity) and can be reserved by calling the restaurant at (617) 536-6300.

Winnipesaukee Winery: NH Wine & St. Pepin

There are over 25 wineries in New Hampshire, and you can check out the New Hampshire Winery Association to learn more about these various producers. Within New Hampshire, you'll find grape wines, fruit wines, mead, dessert wines, and more. Earlier this year, while in Wolfeboro, New Hampshire, I stopped at a farmer's market and bought a bottle of local white wine, NV Winnipesaukee Winery St. Pepin, intrigued by the grape and wanting to sample a New Hampshire wine.

Owned by Christoper Coache and Heidi von Gotz Cogean (the winemaker), the winery is located in Wolfeboro, a successor to Newfound Lake Vineyards. As their website states, "Winnipesaukee Winery is a farm winery making award winning wine from fruit and grapes. We are known for our three year old French oak barrel aged reds and our wide selection of dry to sweet wines. Handcrafted wine is our family tradition." Their Wolfeboro vineyard is planted with Seyval Blanc, Traminette and Edelweiss and they expect a small harvest in 2021. They also ran a Winery Bed & Breakfast, the only one in the state.

The NV Winnipesaukee Winery St. Pepin is an "American Table Wine," produced and bottled by the winery, though their website has no information listed about the wine. As an American Table Wine, it's likely that at least some of the St. Pepin grapes were sourced from outside New Hampshire. St. Pepin is a complex hybrid grape, of Seyval Blanc and Eler Swenson 114, that was introduced sometime between 1983-1986. It is partially named for Lake Pepin, which is in the Mississippi River. Most of the grapes are grown in Minnesota and Wisconsin. It is said that St. Pepin can produce fruity wines, with some similarities to Riesling.

This St. Pepin wine, unoaked with only a 11% ABV, was actually quite delicious. It was fairly crisp, with a hint of sweetness, and presented pleasant citrus and apple notes. It was more complex than expected and definitely would be a very good food wine, though it satisfied on its own as well. I look forward to the future, to try the wines made from grapes from their own vineyards.

Rant: Drinking Advice For The Fall

Today is Labor Day, what many people see as the unofficial end of Summer, despite the fact that the official end isn't until September 23. Labor Day also presages changes in the wine and beverage world, beyond the fact it is grape harvest season, and consumers need to pay attention. There are opportunities now that they should take advantage of, to learn more about wine and other beverages, to experience different drinks, and to enjoy plenty of delicious drinks. I've compiled some drinking advice for the Fall.

1) Don't Stop Drinking Rosé 
It's a myth that Rosé is only a Summer wine. The reality is that Rosé can and should be consumed year-round, no matter what the season, especially as it is excellent with food. Don't be fooled by those who try to claim it is only a seasonal wine. The better wine stores understand it is great all year round and thus they will stock Rosé throughout  the year, even though many distributors don't push Rosé during this time. Thanksgiving is an excellent occasion for Rosé. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Don't Stop Drinking Rosé.

2) Expand Your Palate
The next several months will be the busiest times for wine stores, and many of them will hold numerous wine tasting events, sometimes large ones offering samples of 100+ wines. Most of these events will be free, providing you a perfect opportunity to experience many wines which you may not have tasted before. The best way to learn about wine is to taste it so you should attend these events to experiment and take chances, tasting new wines of which you might never have heard about. Expand your palate and broaden your vinous horizons. As these tastings are free, you have nothing to lose. You might find a new favorite wine, or even several new favorites. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Expand Your Palate.

3) Don't Stress Over Thanksgiving Wines
The holidays are a stressful enough time that you really shouldn't add to your stress by worrying about the wine. Do you really need specific Thanksgiving wine recommendations? I don't think so. The more I ponder the question, the more I realize that all you need for Thanksgiving are some good wines, the varietals and/or blends being much less important. As long as they don't blatantly clash with the meal, then they should work and few wines are going to so blatantly clash. Drink wines you'll enjoy and don't worry so much about "perfect pairings." For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: Stop Stressing Over Thanksgiving Wine.

4) Don't Be Cheap Buying Holiday Wines
As the holidays approach, you might be planning to host parties for your family and friends. You might need a selection of wine for these celebrations. Price is usually a significant factor in your decision as to which wines to purchase. However, instead of buying just the cheapest wine at a shop, ask the staff at that store for their recommendations for the best value wines. They might be able to suggest wines you might not have considered, wines which offer excellent value as well as taste. These are also some great discount wine shops worthy of your attention, offering compelling wines at a low price point. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: When Choosing Holiday Wines, Don't Be A Cheapskate.

5) Celebrate Sake Day on October 1
Nihonshu no Hi, known in English as Sake Day, originated over 40 years ago, in 1978, by a declaration of the Japan Sake Brewers Association and is now celebrated worldwide. Japanese Sake remains a niche beverage in the U.S. so this is a perfect day to learn more about it, to sample some delicious Sake, and understand its wonders. Some local restaurants and wine shops may offer Sake Day celebrations and you should avail yourselves of that opportunity. For more thoughts on this topic, check out Kanpai, Celebrate Sake Day!

6) Celebrate International Sherry Week in November
This year, International Sherry Week will be held from November 4-10. Sherry may be one of the tastiest, most intriguing, and unique wines that you're probably not drinking. It remains a tiny niche beverage in the U.S. and like Sake Day, this is a perfect opportunity to learn more about Sherry, to sample some delicious bottles, and understand its wonders. This will be at least a couple thousand Sherry events across the world, and Taberna de Haro in Brookline always participates, holding some amazing Sherry events. For more thoughts on Sherry, check out All About Sherry.

7) DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!
This is one of the most important pieces of advice you'll receive this season. Please give this your full attention. If you've had too much alcohol to drink, if there is any doubt in your mind, don't drive. Just don't do it! Err on the side of caution so that if you have any doubt of your capacity to drive, then please do not drive. Take a taxi or Uber, catch a ride with someone else, walk or sleep it off. Just don't drive! For more thoughts on this topic, check out Rant: DON'T DRINK & DRIVE!!

What post-Labor Day drinking advice would you like to add?