Quinta Do Ameal: The Marvels of Vinho Verde & Loureriro

The Portuguese wine, Vinho Verde, is an excellent choice for the summer. It's commonly light and refreshing, crisp and full of bright citrus flavors, simple and easy to drink, with a touch of effervescence. In addition, it's often inexpensive, and you can even find tasty wines for under $10. 

However, many people don't realize the diversity of Vinho Verde, generally as they've had no experience with its other forms. Vinho Verde goes beyond the general flavor profile that I described above, and people should understand its other forms, as they are quite compelling as well. 

First, you should know that Vinho Verde is a DOC region in Portugal that was demarcated in 1908. There currently are nine subregions, including Amarante, Ave, Baião, Basto, Cávado, Lima, Monção e Melgaço, Paiva, and Sousa. The region encompasses approximately 21,000 hectares of vineyards (with 47 grape varieties), 18,000 winegrowers, and 600 bottlers. The potential for plenty of diversity is obviously present. 

Annually, the region produces about 80 million liters of wine, composed of 87% White wine, 7% Red and 6% Rosé wine. The region also includes Sparkling Wine (designated Espumante de Vinho Verde), Vinous Spirit and Grape Marc Spirit (designated Aguardente Vínica de Vinho Verde and Aguardente Bagaceira de Vinho Verde), and even Wine Vinegar (designated Vinagre de Vinho Verde). Of the white wines, not all fit into the common perception of Vinho Verde, some lacking effervescence and being produced to be more serious and complex wines. 

I recently participated in a media wine tasting and Zoom seminar with José Luis Moreira da Silva, commonly referred to as Zé Luis, who works for the Esporão group as the lead winemaker for Quinta dos Murças in the Douro region and Quinta do Ameal in the Vinho Verde region. I've previously written about Esporão and Quinta dos Murças, including reviewing a number of their wines, and have been impressed with their portfolio. They produce both inexpensive and higher-end wines, and excel at all price points. So, I was eager to taste wines from Quinta do Ameal, an estate they recently acquired in 2019.

Quinta do Ameal, located in Ponte de Lima, already possessed an excellent reputation, and its history extends back to 1710. The estate is best known for its Loureiro-based wines, which possess great acidity, minerality and can age well. The previous owner, Pedro Araújo, stayed on for a time to help Zé Luis get up to speed on the nature of the estate.

Zé Luis, a native of the Douro region, received his undergraduate degree in microbiology from the Universidade Católica Portuguesa, and then a master’s in oenology at the Escola Superior de Biotecnologia. He worked for about 11 years in the Douro before being hired by Esporão to work at the Quinta dos Murças. And when Esporão acquired Quinta do Ameal, they appointed Zé Luis to also be the lead winemaker for that estate as well. 

Quinta do Ameal, located in the Lima subregion of the Vinho Verde DOC (and next to the Lima River), occupies about 75-acres, about 35 of which are planted with the Loureiro grape. Of the various subregions of the DOC, they are generally differentiated by their temperature and rainfall amounts. The Lima subregion has two main influences, the Atlantic (about 30 km from the ocean), and Continental, and has lower temperatures and higher rainfalls than some other subregions. There is also a large gap in the day and night temperatures, and the Lima River helps to control humidity. 

The soil is primarily granitic, and is richer in clay than in other subregions. The winery is currently conducting extensive soil studies to determine how the grapes can best be grown. Zé Luis stated that the Lima subregion has the "best natural conditions for white wine in the Vinho Verde DOC." Quinta do Ameal was originally planted with only Loureiro as the wine maker wanted to make more serious Vinho Verde, which would have an aging potential of 15-20 years. 

The Loureiro grape is named after the louro, the Portuguese word for laurel, as the aroma of the grape is supposed to be suggestive of the laurel. The grape originated in the Lima River valley, so it was only natural that Quinta do Ameal chose to concentrate on this grape. Zé Luis loves the grape for its “tense, vibrant acidity, and incredible aromatic and aging potential.” 

Their least expensive wine is the 2020 Esporão Bico Amarelo ("Yellow Beak"), which retails for about $12, and about 28,000 cases are produced annually. It's a blend of about 40% Loureiro (from Quinta do Ameal) and 30% each of Alvarinho & Avesso (sourced from nearby growers). With an ABV of 11.5%, the wine remains on the lees for 3-4 months, and possesses no effervescence. On the palate, it's light, crisp and refreshing, with bright notes of lemon, citrus and floral elements. It's a simple wine, in a good way, something to just sip and enjoy, especially on a fine summer day. It would also pair very well with seafood or light dishes. This is the type of wine you should buy by the case so you always have a bottle on hand. 

 

Quinta do Ameal also produces three, estate-grown Loureiro wines, including the Ameal Loureiro, Ameal Solo Único and Ameal Escolha. I sampled the 2020 Amreal Loureiro ($18), produced from 100% Loureiro (from 20 year old vines) which sits on the lees in stainless steel for about 7 months and has a 11.5% ABV.  They winery doesn't put "Vinho Verde" on the front label as they wish to highlight the Loureiro grape, as well as avoiding consumer's usual expectations about Vinho Verde wines.  

I fell in love with this wine from the first sip. It possessed an intriguing nose, stone fruits and floral elements, and on the palate, its complexity and rich flavors burst through. It was crisp, fresh and dry, with a delightful melange of citrus, peach, floral notes, minerality and subtle herbal touches. This wine was well-balanced with a lengthy and delicious finish. This wine would also be perfect on its own, or paired with seafood or similar lighter dishes. 

I was told this wine could easily age for 15 years or more, and I'd love to see how it progresses over time. Zé Luis, also noted that it is similar to Riesling, as the two grape varieties have much in common, and I can understand the comparison. At $18, this is a very good value and I'd highly recommend buying this wine by the case as well. I'm sure it would impress your guests this summer. 

In the future,  Zé Luis wants to make a Sparkling Loureiro, and believes the region is perfect for such a wine.

The Esporão group has acquired another excellent estate with Quinta do Ameal, expanding their already fine portfolio. Quinta do Ameal may also help American consumers understand the marvels of the Vinho Verde DOC, and show them that it's not a monolithic region, but one with plenty of diversity. 

Rant: A Restaurant's Significant Failure

It's extremely frustrating. And it should be one of the easiest elements of a restaurant. However, the restaurant's failure can turn away customers, and those customers may talk to their family and friends, turning away more potential customers.

Restaurants need to be responsive, to answer their email, Facebook messages, etc. Why have them if you aren't going to respond to people? You don't need to immediately answer such contacts, but trying to respond within 24 hours shouldn't' be difficult. If you haven't responded within 72 hours, there definitely is a problem. 

Not everyone, for various reasons, will raise their concerns immediately with a manager at a restaurant. Instead, they might want time to put together their thoughts and then contact the restaurant through email or similar means. They could have just voiced their complaints publicly, on Yelp or elsewhere, but instead, they chose, out of respect, to contact the restaurant privately. 

Within the last couple months, I've encountered this issue with two different restaurants, With both places, I sent them messages via both email and Facebook messenger. And neither one responded at all. And well over a month has passed since I attempted to contact them. There's no valid excuse for such a lack of response after so much time. It's simply a restaurant failure that should be immediately remedied. I'm sure that I'm not the only person who has tried to contact these places and been ignored. 

When a customer fails to receive a response to their concerns, they can feel that a restaurant doesn't care ant that can lead to anger. No one likes to be ignored, especially from a business where customer service is so important. You've probably lost that customer, and others who they complain to about your restaurant. That could have been stopped easily by a simple response to their contact. 

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely and tips well.
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1) Tonno, in Wakefield, which is one of my favorite Italian & Seafood restaurants, is offering Dollar Oysters every day! From 4pm-5pm every day, you can get $1 oysters, from a rotating selection from New England and elsewhere. Accompany the oysters with one of their summer cocktails or a nice glass of wine.

2) From August 8-21, Zuma at the Four Seasons One Dalton will participate in Dine Out Boston with a customizable three-course lunch prix fixe menu ($25). Available Wednesday-Friday from 11:30am-3pm both weeks, diners will start with a miso soup accompanied by a choice of a starter: salmon tartare with ponzu and mustard miso; steamed baby spinach with sesame dressing; spicy fried chicken with lemon-chili sauce; or vegetable tempura with tentsuyu dipping sauce. 

For entrees, options include a choice of: salmon teriyaki with pickled cucumber; chicken sando with truffle mayo, miso pickles and Japanese herbs; spicy fried tofu salad with avocado, black garlic sauce and Japanese herbs; spicy beef tenderloin with sesame, red chili and sweet soy (additional $15); or miso-marinated black cod with citrus wasabi (additional $15). To end with something sweet, there is a yuzu cheesecake with raspberry granita, black sesame and yamamomo, or a seasonal fruit platter.

3) Located in the landscaped outdoor space adjoining Chef/Owner Will Gilson’s The Lexington at Cambridge Crossing, The Picnic Grove at The Lexington is officially opening this weekend for frozen drinks and bites every Thursday through Sunday from 4 to 8 p.m.

The laidback hangout from Gilson’s team at the Lexington offers guests a tropical oasis in the middle of the urban landscape to refresh, relax, and enjoy. Served out of a colorful storage container-turned-bar, the tasty, summer menu features a variety of appetizers, items from the grill, frozen drinks, cocktails on draft, wine, and beer.

Signature food items include:
Black pepper-glazed chicken wings with sriracha aioli, scallion, and lime ($14)
Braised pork nachos with green chili, cotija, and grilled corn ($13)
Buffalo cauliflower with bleu cheese, celery, calabrian chili ($12)
Wagyu hot dog with kimchi and spicy mayo ($10)
Griddled burger (classic, impossible patty, or patty melt available)
Fish tacos with mango salsa, charred avocado, and cream ($13)

Signature drinks include:
Frozen Pina Colada with Plantation Barbados rum, coconut, and pineapple ($10)
Strawberry Daiquiri with Plantation Isle of Fiji rum, strawberry, and lime ($10)
Space Face with Lunazul Tequila, pineapple, lime, and mint ($11)
Crisp Linen Pants with Rittenhouse Rye, Mathilde Poire, Cinnamon, Pineapple ($12)

4) Launching tomorrow, Encore Boston Harbor’s Garden Cafe is reopening its doors with a new unlimited, weekend brunch service. Offering elevated American fare in an atmosphere overlooking the casino and resort’s Garden Lobby, the Garden Cafe will be open every Friday through Monday from 8 a.m. to 1 p.m for brunch service. For only $34 per person, guests can indulge in unlimited, chef-driven brunch items including:

Fluffy lemon ricotta pancakes
Santa Barbara Smokehouse salmon
House-made Boston cream blueberry waffles
Artisanal grilled cheeses
Down the Cape Scramble (scrambled Maine Family Farms eggs, fresh avocado, herbed Vermont Creamery goat cheese, sliced tomato)

For reservations, please go here.

Tasting Counter: Chef Peter Ungár & Consistent Excellence

Back in 2008, I first met Chef Peter Ungár, who was holding private, five-course dinners, with wine pairings, at his home in Somerville. That first dinner was amazing, with dishes including Chawan Mushi, Maine Lobster Tortelloni, Halibut with Foie Gras & Black Truffle, Green Cardomon Brined Kurobuta Pork Belly, and Pineapple Vanilla Bean Tarte Tatin. I attended a number of these dinners, including having Chef Ungár prepare a special birthday dinner for me one year. 

Fast forward to July 2015, when Chef Ungár finally opened his own restaurant, Tasting Counter, in Somerville. He offers a nine-course tasting menu, paired with ten selections of wine, beer, Sake, or nonalcoholic beverages. It's a small place, seating only twenty people, but allowing more personal attention to each and every guest. I've dined there a number of times as well, and my most recent experience was a couple weeks ago. 

As I've frequently said, Chef Ungár is one of the best chefs in the Boston+ area, although he doesn't receive as much attention as he deserves. His restaurant has been consistently excellent every time I've been there, due in large part to Chef Ungár being a perfectionist. His dishes are creative and delicious, with such intriguing combinations of ingredients. And the drink pairings are excellent choices as well. It receives my highest and unqualified recommendation. If you have not dined there, then you need to make a reservation. 

You purchase your tickets to these dinners online, paying one price for the 9 courses of food, 10 drink pairings, tax and gratuity. You don't know the menu until you show up, although they can adjust matters for many allergies. Many of their ingredients are locally sourced, including herbs that they grow on the premises. Sustainability is very important to Chef Ungár. 

Below, you'll find information about the dishes I enjoyed at my last experience at Tasting Counter. I had the Sake pairing while my dining companion had the wine pairings. We shared the drinks so I got to taste both the Sake and wine. At the end of your meal, you receive a copy of the menu to take home with you. However, the menu doesn't fully do justice to the dishes you're served, as part of the experience is being told, often by Chef Ungár, the sourcing of the ingredients. It's also cool to watch the Chef and his staff prepare many of the dishes in front of you. 

I didn't take notes about this dinner, just photos, primarily as I was there simply to enjoy the dinner. It was another superb dinner, but the quality I always expect, and receive, from Chef Ungár. Consistency is one of the most important elements of a restaurant, and Tasting Counter always delivers. I've recommended it often, and the feedback from those who have dined there have largely been extremely positive. 

Welcoming Bites: Pickled Mussel with Sea Urchin; Duck Liver Mousse with black chestnut & hibiscus; Seaweed Cured Yellowtail Amberjack Belly with green blueberry.
Paired with: Benedicte et Stephanie Tissot Cremant de Jura Extra Brut and Hakkaisan Sparkling Nigori

Red Sea Bream with preserved lemon, snap peas, and red shiso. The red liquid is a shish soda! 
Paired with 2019 Domaine Barmes Buecher Tosenberg Alsace Pinot Blanc and Kikusui Shuzo Junmai Ginjo

Razor Clam with green strawberry, cucumber custard, black lime, and salad burnet
Paired with 2020 Poggio Anima il Mostro Ragana and Fukucho "Moon on the Water" Junmai Ginjo

(No photo)

White Nectarine & White Peony with lemon balm, ricotta, and parma ham
Paired with 2019 Bichi Tecate Rosa (from Mexico!) and Akishiko Shuzo Yama Junmai

Black Sea Bass with fava, shallot, radish, green tomato, and smoked tomato
Paired with 2019 Domaine Reveille Carpe and Iinuma Honke Kinoene Junmai Ginjo

Dover Sole with lobster, porcini, show pea, and fairy ring mushroom
Paired with 2020 Meinklang Mulatschak Weisser and Kidoizumi Shuzo Yamadanishiki Junmai

Schisandra Berry with pine nut & almond

Pheasant with pistschio, garlic scape, pea miso, lavage, and celery vinegar
Paired with 2020 Division Winemakig Co. Les Petits Fers and Tensei "Endless Summer" Tokubetsu Honjozo

Wagyu Sirloin with ancho chile, sunchoke, wild rapini, and turnip
Paired with 2017 Matlas Riccitelli Cabernet Sauvignon (Argentina) and Katoukichibee Shouten Born Gold Junmai Daiginjo (one of my favorite Sakes)

Olive Oil with fermented rhubarba, schisandra cream, and burnt bay leaf
Paired with 2019 Silver Thread Vineyard Estate Riesling and Amabuki Shuzo Ichigo Junmai Ginjo Nama

Dark Chocolate with almond, kumquat curd, fermented red plum
Paired with Raphael Bartucci Bugey Cerdon and Ryujin Shuzo Oze x Rose Junmai Daiginjo

Parting Morsels: Williams Pear & Thai Basil Fruit Chew; Candy Cap Mushroom Bonbon; and Fennel Pollen Madeline

I thoroughly enjoyed every dish and was impressed with the creativity, the intriguing melange of ingredients in each dish. And I'd highly recommend you opt for the Sake pairings. Tasting Counter has the largest Sake menu of any non-Asian restaurant in the Boston+ area, if not in all of Massachusetts. The wine pairings are excellent too, generally all natural wines from all over the world. 

Rant: Stop Drink Hate!

There are drink categories, such as Beer, which I generally dislike, but I would never elevate that dislike to a hatred. And I won't write off the entire category either. With most beer, it is the taste of the hops which turns me off and it would be simple for me to never drink any beer. 

I have seen plenry of other people do exactly that with other beverages. Some claim to hate Chardonnay or Sake, Port or Sauvignon Blanc, and won't ever drink it, refusing any offers to sample it. When presented with a new bottle, they will refuse to even take a sip, already convinced they will hate it. They wrongfully assume that all the examples of that type of beverage are the same, so they believe they will hate it. 

I refuse to take such a position and strongly encourage others to do the same. 

Why? Because I understand the simple fact that beverages are diverse, that they come in a multitude of flavors and styles, types and tastes. I know that even if I dislike 99% of the beers on the market, that still leaves 1% which I may greatly enjoy. I refuse to stop sampling and tasting beers even though I will dislike most of them. And I have found some beers I truly love. 

You should be open to tasting new beverages, even if you've disliked others of that beverage in the past. Maybe you actually only dislike oaky Chardoanny but would love an unoaked version. Maybe you've hated hot Sake but would like a fine, chilled Sake. Be adventurous with your palate and willing to taste new drinks. 

 

Next Monday, August 9, is World Baijiu Day, a day to celebrate and honor this intriguing Chinese spirit, which is the most popular spirit in the world. However, many Americans claim they hate Baijiu, stating it tastes like stinky cheese or sweaty socks. Again, this is an example of an irrational hatred as Baijiu is a diverse beverage, with many different flavor profiles. Yes, some of the sauce aroma Baijiu can be off-putting to many people, but there are lighter, fruitier versions which would appeal to anyone who drinks others spirits like rum or gin. 

I've previously written 11 article about Baijiu, delving into its fascinating history, production methods, and providing reviews of numerous Baijiu. I've tried to promote this beverage as it can be absolutely delicious and it's also versatile, making an excellent cocktail ingredient. World Baijiu Day is a perfect time to learn more about this Chinese spirit and sample some examples, to get past your hatred of this liquor. 

Locally, Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, in Cambridge, will be celebrating World Baijiu Day with a new cocktail, the Peppermelon, made with fresh watermelon juice, black pepper honey syrup, lemon juice, and Baijiu. Sumiao also has other Baijiu cocktails on their regular menu year round. Next week is also the start of Dine Out Boston, so you can go to Sumiao for a specially priced multi-course meal and try the new Peppermelon cocktail. I'm planning on doing so. 

Please don't write off an entire category of drinks. The diversity of beverages means you are likely to find something you will enjoy. By denying an entire category, you shut yourself off to a myriad of possibilities, and life is too short to do that. Be open to sampling everything you can, taking a chance on something new and different. Experience all that life has to offer and I'm sure your life will be richer for it. And that applies to many aspects of our lives, not just beverages. 

Celebrate diversity in all its forms!