Beacon Hill Bistro: Wine & Dine Mondays

Take a culinary tour around the world with the Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro’s Wine & Dine Monday series. Visit various wine regions from your seat at this bistro situated on historic Beacon Hill, as co-owner and resident wine director Cecilia Rait and Tracy Burgis of M.S. Walker brings you from region to region and explains the complexities of each selection. Cecilia states, "Wine & Dine Mondays are about wonderful wines, creative food and friendship."

Each of the eight events will be held on the second and fourth Monday of every month beginning on January 25th, 2010 and ending in the Spring on May 10th, 2010. Each four-course dinner showcases regional fare as well the culinary artistry of Executive Chef Jason Bond whose selections will accent each featured wine.

This intimate adventure is set in family style seating to encourage conversation, and for the price of $55.00 per person (tax and gratuity not including), guests are treated to a full four-course dinner including various wines to accompany their educational experience. The event is great for all levels of wine lovers!

Schedule:

January 25, 7pm

Mendocino and Lake County
Heralded for their natural beauty, California’s two northernmost wine regions offer an array of gorgeous wines as well. During this dinner we will sample a select few.

February 8th, 2010 7:00PM
Puglia

Puglia stretches from the spur of the Italian boot to its heel. It is together with Sicily the most productive wine region in Southern Italy. Many exciting wines have been crafted in the area since the wine revolution of the 1980’s. Have your passport in hand as we travel through Puglia and sample the region.

February 22nd, 2010 7:00PM
It's all Greek to me
Birthplace of Western civilization, Greece is in many ways also the birthplace of our modern wine culture. Greek wine has come a long way since an appellation system was put into place in the 1970’s. Travel both across the pond and back in time for this wine dinner.

March 8th, 2010 7:00PM
Barossa Valley/Langmeil Winery
Barossa is considered one of the top districts on the Australian wine map. Despite being made in a high-tech and modern fashion, the area’s wines are like the Australian people: outgoing and unpretentious. Join us for this culinary adventure.

March 22nd, 2010 7:00PM
Tempranillo
Tempranillo is a black grape varietal widely grown to make full-bodied red wines. The Phoenicians brought this grape to the Iberian peninsula where it found its home. We will not only sample the wines from Spain and Portugal, but also a new world version from California.

April 12th, 2010 7:00PM
Alsace-Maison Hugel
Hans Ulrich Hugel settled in Riquewihr, France in 1639 after the Thirty Years War and soon took charge of the Corporation of Winegrowers. The family has been making wine in Alsace ever since. During this journey we will sample some of the traditional varieties of the region.

April 26th, 2010 7:00PM
Austria
In the 1980’s the Austrian Parliament enacted perhaps Europe’s most stringent wine legislation drawing young winemakers and cutting-edge techniques to the vineyards and cellars with the law’s emphasis on quality over quantity. Austria makes some of the raciest, most exciting wines in central-eastern Europe. Still relatively unknown, they deserve wider recognition. Come see what you think!

May 10th, 2010 7:00PM
Blind Tasting
For the last wine dinner of the season, we will blind taste some of our favorites from our previous adventures. If you’ve been with us the entire journey maybe you’ll be able to identify some of your favorites as well. If this is your first trip with us it will be a memorable one!

Reservations are necessary. Please call 617-723-7575

Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro
25 Charles Street
Boston, MA
Phone: 617-723-7575

The Strange Case of Dr. Franc and Mr. Vegetal

Robert Louis Stevenson penned the classic novella, The Strange Case of Dr. Jekyll and Mr. Hyde, in which he examined the duality of man, the two faces of each person, one good and one evil. I have engaged in a similar examination of duality, though with a different subject, the Cabernet Franc grape. In my case, I would title my investigation as The Strange Case of Dr. Franc and Mr. Vegetal.

For a time, it seemed that all of the Cabernet Franc wines I drank had a vegetal aroma and flavor which turned me off. I derisively referred to such wines as "salad" wines, which had far too much green flavor for me. Cabernet Franc was not alone though as I encountered similar flavors in many Carmeneres too. Yet there were other wine lovers who enjoyed the vegetal nature of these wines, so it was clearly a matter of preference.

But I perservered, continuing to taste Cabernet Franc wines, hoping that I might find one I could enjoy, one without those vegetal tastes. I was eventually rewarded for all of my effort spent on that quest, and began finding numerous examples lacking that greenness. I had found the other face of Cabernet Franc, a more appealing one for my palate. One of the primary places where I found Cabernet Francs which I could enjoy was in New York.

Thus, I was excited for the recent Taste Live event, a tasting of four Cabernet Francs from the Finger Lakes region. Lenn of Lenndevours: The New York Cork Report led the tasting with co-hosting by the people from Finger Lakes Wine Country. Dale of Drinks Are on Me joined me at my house for the tasting.

I had some slight concerns that maybe the Cabernet Francs would show some vegetal flavors, but was willing to give them a try and hope for the best. My worries were needless as none of them expressed any such greenness. I was a very happy man. They were all Dr. Franc without any Mr. Vegetal.

I should first note that I opened and decanted the wines for about five hours prior to the event, and I do think that affected the smell and taste of the wines. For example, some of the other tasters found some barnyard aromas in a couple of the wines but I did not detect any in mine. Such aromas may have dissipated with time which is why I could not detect them. We were recommended to decant a couple of the wines and that appeared to be good advice.

We began the tasting with the 2007 Fox Run Vineyards Cabernet Franc/Lemberger ($14.99) which was an excellent start. This wine is a blend of 47% Cabernet Franc and 53% Lemberger (also known as Blaufrankisch) and has an alcohol content of 12.5%. Only 825 cases of this wine were produced. Like all four of the wines in the tasting, this was from the 2007 vintage which is considered to be an excellent vintage.

This was a juicy, delicious and easy-drinking wine, making an excellent introductory Cabernet Franc. There were nice blueberry notes with red fruit accents and hints of underlying spice. Its lighter red color reminded me of some Pinot Noirs, though the taste was definitely influenced by the Lemberger. This is a wine I could easily enjoy with pizza or a burger, or simply on its own. It is a wine to drink and enjoy, rather than something to sip and ponder over. It earns my recommendation, and placed me into a pleasant mood at the start of the tasting.

The 2007 Hazlitt 1852 Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($22) only has an alcohol content of 12.3%. As an aside, I really do enjoy the lower alcohol contents of many of the New York wines. Red wines seems to average 12-14%, and it is rare to see wines over that. Unfortunately, the Hazlitt wine did not really please me. It seemed to be overly spiced to me, the fruit flavors buried beneath that spice. Others at the tasting enjoyed this wine but it just did not satisfy me.

The 2007 Rooster Hill Vineyards Cabernet Franc ($19.99) was very different from the Fox Run. The Rooster Hill seemed more of a serious wine, with stronger tannins, more subdued dark fruit flavors and some Christmas spice notes. This is the type of wine where you really start thinking about what you are drinking. It has more complexity, more depth of flavor. It probably also should be drank with food, as the tannins might be too much on their own. Another good example of the Dr. Franc aspect of Cabernet Franc, the non-vegetal side, which showcases such good fruit and spice. I recommend this wine too.

My favorite wine of the evening was clearly the 2007 Red Newt Wine Cellars “Sawmill Creek” Cabernet Franc ($38.99). This is a blend of about 90% Cabernet Franc with the other 10% being Merlot and Cabernet Sauvignon. It has an alcohol content of 13.7% and only 120 cases were produced. This wine will be released in February 2010.

When I tasted this wine, it brought back memories of the 2007 Shinn Estates Cabernet Franc, a wine which thoroughly impressed me last year. The Red Newt was not quite as good as the Shinn, but it was impressive nonetheless. It was a big wine, but did not overwhelm, possessing an excellent balance. There was plenty of complexity, such as an intriguing melange of lush flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, blackberry, vanilla and more. The silky tannins made this a very smooth wine, and something I could easily enjoy on its own or with food. The finish was lengthy and pleasing, a feeling you did not wish to end.

This was a "wow" wine and gets my highest recommendation. Now, admittedly this is a more expensive wine. But I do think the price is justified for the quality of this wine, though the Shinn, which is similarly priced, remains the better value.

This tasting was good on two fronts. First, it showcased some delicious, nonvegetal Cabernet Francs. Second, it showcased some quality red wines coming out of the Finger Lakes region. I suggest you check out both fronts, and try one of these Cabernet Francs from the Finger Lakes.

Do you prefer Dr. Franc or Mr. Vegetal?

Beacon Hill Bistro: Valentine's Day

For another Valentine's Day option, you might want to consider the Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro. Nestled atop the cobble stone pathways of romantic Beacon Hill is an excellent place to enjoy a romantic evening. Share a cocktail in front of the fire in the bistro’s charming bar area; then enjoy a Prefix dinner presented by Executive Chef Jason Bond.

The Valentine’ Day Menu is available on Sunday, February 14, from 5:30PM – 10PM.

Menu

Amuse Bouche
Wellfleet Oyster, Oyster Plant, Caviar
With Champagne Toast : N/V Mumm Napa Brut Prestige (Napa Valley, California)

First Course:

Hamachi Sashimi and Jasmine Tea Cured Salmon with Pickled Crabapple, Walnut Butter, Horseradish Cream

Italian Fava Bean Veloute with Preserved Bergamot, Paprika Oil, Spiced Yogurt Sorbet

Salade Du Porc-Cervelas De Boudin Noir, Rare Tender Hearts with Chicory with Warm Guanciale Vinagrette

Bibb Leaf Lettuce, Avocado Vinaigrette with Bay Scallops, Red Onion, and Blood Orange

Tender Mousse of Duck Liver on Cognac with Tiffany Jewels of Candied Citrus and Semillon Gelée

Paired with 2006 Château Moncontour Vouvray (Loire Valley, France)
or 2008 Château Pesquié Les Terrasses Rouge (Rhône Valley, France)

Second Course

Whole Roasted Loup de Mer with Bronze Fennel and Bay, with Rosefinn Potatoes, Watermelon Radish, Kalamondin and Picholine Vinaigrette

Roasted Buttercup Squash, Black Kale and Black Trumpet Stuffing with Seared Teff Polenta, Harissa and Labne

Beet and Ricotta Ravioli, Fennel and Baby Leek Stew with Des Nuages, Olive Oil Toasted Breadcrumbs

Duck Breast a la Sevillana, Provencal Olives, Macomber Turnips With Sherry, Honey, and Bitter Orange, Crisp Confit Thigh

Red Wine and Spruce Venison Roast with House Cured Cabbage with Bacon, Chestnut Spaetzle, Sauce Grand Veneur

Paired with 2007 Domaine de Pellehaut Chardonnay (Gascogne, France)
or 2006 Kinton, Syrah (Santa Barbara County, California)

Dessert

Macaron en Blush with Pineapple and Citrus Macedoine, Juniper Chantilly

Chocolate Terrine with Vin Santo and Pear, Fig and Chestnut Marmalade

Pavlova with Pistachio Ice Cream, Pomegranate, Mascarpone

Bouton de Culotte with Strawberry and Sage Blossom Syrup

Paired with
2006 Weinlauaubenhof Kracher Cuvee Beerenauslese Burgenland (Austria)
or N/V Graham’s Six Grapes Porto (Douro)

Cost: $65 Per Person with Optional Wine Pairing for an additional $30. A 20% gratuity will be automatically added to your bill.

Reservations are necessary. Please call 617-723-7575

Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro
25 Charles Street
Boston, MA
Phone: 617-723-7575

Massachusetts Wine Lovers Rejoice!

It is a glorious start to 2010! 2009 was a difficult year forr wine lovers in Massachusetts. Attorney General Martha Coakley appealed a court decision which declared MA House Bill 4498 unconstitutional. When it was declared unconstitutional, there was hope that soon enough, MA residents could order wine directly from wineries. The hearing on the appeal was held and the decision was just rendered, supporting the original court decision!

You can read the full opinion and it makes a quite damning argument against the three tier system. Hopefully other states will start feeling the same way as this court. The opinion also provides some intriguing statistics about wine sales in the U.S.

"In 2006, the year § 19F was enacted, 5,350 registered wineries in the United States produced a total of 646,395,818 gallons of wine, which includes both grape wine and fruit wine production. Almost all of the country's wine production and sales come from a small number of wineries. In 2006, the five largest wineries in the U.S. produced approximately 70 percent of the country's wine. The country's thirty largest wineries comprised approximately 92 percent of the market, and each produced between 680,000 and 150 million gallons per year. The rest of the commercial market--the 3,540 wineries which produce between one and 680,000 gallons per year--competed for 8 percent of the market share. Finally, 1,780 wineries produced less than one gallon of wine per year and had virtually zero percent of the market share."

Now, though this is an extremely positive step forward, we must still understand that the battle is not yet over. There might still be an additional appeal. A new law could be enacted to limit outside wine shipments, trying to follow the guidelines within the appellate decision. We have made much progress but the fight continues for now. Let us have hope.

For additional information, check out a new post on this topic over at Fermentation.

What Wine Was Served at the Last Supper?

The Last Supper is supposed to be the final meal that Jesus shared with his twelve apostles and disciples. I am not going to enter into a debate over whether this dinner actually occurred or not. I merely want to speculate on the type of wine that might have been served at this meal. So, for the purpose of this post, I will treat this supper as if it truly took place.

Though wine was served at the Last Supper, there are no specific details of the type or nature of the wine. Thus, we are left speculating as to what they might have drank. We should note that some believe the dinner may have been a Passover Seder, or at least reminiscent of such a celebration. By examining the potential evidence, including from ancient history, archaeology, cultural traditions, and more, one type of wine stands out as a possible choice.

Passum.

Passum is a type of sweet, raisin wine that appears to have originated in ancient Carthage and eventually spread to Italy. It became very popular with the Romans, and spread to other parts of their Empire. There were multiple ways to produce passum. Sometimes grapes, after they were ripe, were left on the vine for more time until the sun had shriveled them to about half their size. Other times, the grapes were picked when ripe and then placed on to a tray to dry in the sun. In addition, some wine makers just immersed the grapes in boiling olive oil.

In ancient Palestine, archaeologists have found numerous amphorae which were specifically designed to transport passum. In addition, Jews traditionally used Passum during Passover celebrations. Even to this day, raisin wine is generally acceptable during Passover. The Talmud refers to zimmukin (“raisin wine”) as well as ilyaston (sweet wine from grapes dried in the sun for three days). Passum has a long shelf life so it is easier to store between celebrations. Thus, there are some food reason to believe that passum may have been served at the celebration of the Last Supper.

The modern day version of passum is the Italian passito, where the grapes are picked and then let to dry in the sun atop a mat. Check out my reviews of a couple passitos: NV Cascina Chicco Arcass and 1999 Riecine Sangiovese Passito.

Inspiration and information for this article partially derives from the article "My Blood of the Covenant: What Did the Apostles Drink at the Last Supper?" by Nicholas K. Rauh and Elizabeth Lyding Will (Archaeology Odyssey, Sept/Oct 2002). Thanks very much to the authors and check out their article for more information.