Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  "Let’s face it, you think China is a place shrouded in mystery and you want to know more! What’s the deal with the “year of the animal” thing? How does feng shui actually work? What is the difference between Taoism, Buddhism and Confucianism and how can it be applied to your everyday life?"

Learn all you ever wanted to know about these mysterious, or not so mysterious, concepts, ideas and practices at China Blossom’s new “Reality Check: China Style!” lecture series sponsored by the Asian Boston Media Group. The series launches on Thursday, April 26, and continues on the last Thursday of each month through June. Choose some dishes from the China Blossom menu and enjoy a free lecture about topics such as feng shui, Chinese astrology and modern Buddhist practices.

Thursday, April 26, from 6:30pm-7:30pm
Feng Shui Rudiments: Guest speaker Peg Donahue, Co-Founder of The Center of Feng Shui and Intuitive Arts, will discuss the fundamentals of feng shui and its meaning in Chinese culture. Donahue has advanced training and experience in Bau-Biologie, feng shui, mind-body energy techniques, manifestation and quantum physics. She is the founder of Feng Shui Connections, Co-Founder of Living Energy LLC and is also the co-author of Dorm Room Feng Shui. Donahue received her MBA from Boston University and her BA from Georgetown University.

Thursday, May 31, from 6:30pm-7:30pm
Chinese Astrology: Guest speaker and certified feng shui practitioner, Katina Lemay, will discuss the ins and outs of Chinese Astrology, as well as the basics of the well-known “Four Pillars” concept. Lemay combines her intuition with her training in black sect, compass and form feng shui, earth energies and four pillars astrology to help individuals improve targeted aspects of their lives. She is a certified home stager and Kundalini Reiki Master. She is the founder of The New England School of Feng Shui and is a Red Ribbon member with the International Feng Shui Guild.

Thursday, June 28,  from 6:30pm-7:30pm
Modern Chinese Ideologies and Daily Life: Taoism vs. Buddhism vs. Confucianism: The Boston Buddha, Andy Kelley, will engage guests in a 101 comparison of modern Chinese religious beliefs and then engage attendees in a thought provoking discourse on how to be more mindful in daily life. He founded The Boston Buddha to teach individuals to be more productive in their careers and happier in their lives by incorporating meditation into their busy schedules. Kelly graduated from the Mindfulness-Based Stress Reduction Program (MBSR) at the Center for Mindfulness at UMass Medical School and is a certified instructor of Primordial Sound Meditation for The Chopra Center.

Cost: Enjoy a complimentary lecture with dinner from China Blossom’s menu.
Reservations are necessary as lectures are held in private dining room. Please call 978-682-2242 for more information or to make your reservation.

2)  Legal Sea Foods is “Raising the Bar” once again by debuting their new spring and summer cocktail list. New to the “Martini” list, Legal Sea Foods will now begin pouring the Double Cross Truffle Martini (pure, clean Slovakian Double Cross vodka, truffle & blue cheese olive - $12.95) and the “Perfect” Ten Martini (Tanqueray 10, aromatized wines, lemon twist - $10.95).

For “House Specialties,” sangria options ($9.95 each) now come threefold: Yumberry Sangria (Thatcher’s Yumberry liqueur, Hendrick’s, moscato, lime, fresh raspberries, soda); White Sangria (St. Germain, Skyy Citrus, sauvignon blanc, lemonade, lemon bitters, lemon-lime soda); and, Legal Sangria (Spanish Red Wine, Cruzan Raspberry and Citrus rums, Massenez Crème de Peche, lemon-lime soda, fresh fruit). There is also a classic Moscow Mule (Russian Standard, Gosling’s Ginger Beer, lime - $9.95).

Legal Sea Foods also offers “Exclusive Selections” featuring their own hand-selected, privately bottled El Dorado 5 Year Rum, Corazón Añejo Tequila and Eagle Rare 10 Year Bourbon. Newcomers to this category include: Smokin’ Hot ‘Rita (Corazón Añejo Tequila, Del Maguey Vida Mezcal, jalapeño-habanero syrup, fresh watermelon, lime - $9.95); Mojito (El Dorado 5 Year Rum, mint, lime soda - $9.95); and, “Old Fashioned” Old Fashioned (Eagle Rare 10 Year Bourbon, sugar, orange bitters, Angostura bitters - $9.95).

The Fresh Watermelon Crush (Rain Organic Vodka, fresh watermelon, simple syrup - $9.95) will join the ranks in the “Cocktails” portion of the menu. For those looking to cool down, head to their “Highballs” section ($8.95 each) where you will find the Coconut Lemonade (Skyy Coconut, coconut water, fresh lemon, sour).

For “Tasting Flights,” guests can explore their palate with three one-ounce pours. In the new Legal Trinity ($11.95), sip on their exclusively barreled spirits: El Dorado 5-Year Rum, Corazón Añejo Tequila and Eagle Rare 10-Year Bourbon. Other flights include: Patrón Tequila (Silver, Reposado, Añejo - $13.95); A Taste of Tawny Port (Quinta do Noval 10 Year, Fonseca 20 Year, Taylor Fladgate 30 Year - $14.95); Ultimate Chocolate Ecstasy (Bailey’s Irish Caramel Cream Liqueur, Godiva Chocolate Cream Liqueur, Bailey’s Irish Chocolate Mint Cream Liqueur - $10.95); Grand Mariner (Grand Mariner, Grand Mariner Centenaire, Grand Marnier Cent Cinquantenaire - $24.95); and, Nectar of the Gods (Brinley’s Gold Coffee Rum, Brinley’s Gold Coconut Rum, Brinley’s Gold Vanilla Rum - $8.95).

3)  On April 11, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods will team up with the co-owners of the Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard, Fred Merwarth and Oskar Bynke, to host a four-plus-course wine dinner at the Park Square location. Each course will feature Legal Sea Foods’ signature cuisine paired with selections from this vineyard in New York’s Finger Lakes.

Hors d'Oeuvres
Scallop Mousse, Toast Points and Chervil Aioli
Lobster Anticuchos with Mini Garden Vegetables
Fresh Oysters* and Lemon Granité
Paired with 2006 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Cuvée Brut
First Course
Braised Pork Mousse Stuffed Calamari (pecorino clam risotto)
2010 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard “Reserve” Dry Riesling
Second Course
Indian Spice Rubbed Striped Bass (basmati lentil salad, grilled mango salsa)
2010 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Gewurztraminer
Third Course
Hickory Wood-Grilled Arctic Char (roasted ratatouille, herbs de provence compound butter)
2007 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard Cabernet Franc
Dessert Course
Pineapple and Mango Tart (lime-coconut caramel sauce, vanilla scented whipped cream)
2008 Hermann J. Wiemer Vineyard “Bunch Select” Late-Harvest Riesling

Cost: $70 per person (excludes tax and gratuity)
Reservation required by calling: 617-530-9397

4)  "With more than 150 Regional Pasta Tour dinners under their belts, Tavolo chefs Chris Douglass and Nuno Alves believe they have circumnavigated the 20 regions of Italy at least three times – adding up to a whopping 450 authentic recipes researched, cooked and served since 2009."

Their 3-course Regional Pasta Tour menu ($25) is offered every Wednesday from 5-10 PM, with dishes originating from stalwarts like Tuscany and Sicily, and from lesser-known pockets of culinary discovery like Campania (Spaghetti with Salmon & Braised Octopus). One Wednesday a month, Regional Pasta Tour is devoted to one of Italy’s countless annual food festivals.

Wednesday, April 4
Artichoke Festival Pasta Tour
(Sagra del Carciofo Romanesco)
Raw Artichoke Salad with Shaved Parmesan
Lasagna of Confit Artichokes and Pancetta with Bechamel
Cynar-Green Tea Granita

Wednesday, May 23
Ligurian Lemon Festival Pasta Tour
(Sagra di Limoni)
Farinata: arugula, chickpea flatbread, caramelized mushrooms, lemon vinaigrette
Lemon Trofie (pasta shape) with lemon frittelle, lemon zest, and salt cod with lemons, capers and olives
Lemon Olive Oil Cake with berries and lemon meringue

Festivals of Pignoli and Baccala are coming up in June and July !

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  In celebration of Easter Sunday on April 8th, the Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro will be offering a special, prix fixe Easter Brunch. From 10:30am-4pm, diners can indulge in springtime fare and the prix fixe menu is available for $39 per person (+tax and gratuity). Reservations are highly recommended by calling 617-723-7575.

Menu:
--Sweet Pea Soup with Lemon Crème Fraîche, Crispy Serrano Ham and Mint Oil
--Roasted Asparagus Salad with Farm Egg, Spring Dug Parsnip Purée, Onion Confit and Bacon
--Rohan Duck Rillettes with Traditional Accompaniments
--Arugula Salad with Shaved Fennel, Ricotta Salata, Candied Hazelnuts and Meyer Lemon Vinaigrette
--Fresh Fruit Bowl with House Made Yogurt, Native Honey and Granola
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--Poached Eggs over Salmon and Toasted Brioche with Chive Hollandaise, Roasted Potatoes, and Baby Greens
--Omelet Fines Herbes with Chèvre, Roasted Mushrooms, Baby Greens and Potatoes
--Brioche French Toast with Native Strawberries, Mint and Chantilly Crème Fraîche
--Old Spot Ham with Braised Red Cabbage, Pickled Ramps and Maple Mustard Glaze
--Faroe Island Salmon with New Potato, Leek, Bacon Hash and Vidalia Onion Soubise
--Lentil and Farro Presse with Radish and Fennel Salad, Feta, Roasted Red Pepper and Spiced Yogurt
--Vermont Lamb Shoulder with Spring Dug Parsnip Purée, Roasted Asparagus and Mint Pesto
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--Selection from our Dessert Cart

2)  On March 27, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods will “trick” out Park Square’s wine cellar with their next Legal Holiday: April Fools’ Day. For those looking to celebrate the occasion a bit early this year, Legal Sea Foods will serve up three-courses of unique beverages and fun hors d’oeuvres in this “Expect the Unexpected” themed menu:

First Course
White Shrimp Tamal with roasted corn relish & salsa tatemada
Domaine du Viking “Tendre” Vouvray, Loire Valley, 2009
Second Course
Pan Seared Native Striped Bass with cilantro rice au gratin & green pepper cream sauce
Ken Forrester “Petit” Pinotage, Western Cape, 2010
Third Course
Pastel Tres Leches with café de hoya caramel sauce
Petite Mexican Coffee

Cost: $35 per person (includes tax and gratuity)
Reservation required by calling: 617-530-9392

3)  Tamo Bar in the Seaport Hotel is gearing up for St. Patrick's Day with some distinctively Irish cocktails and authentic dishes from the Emerald Isle. All are welcome to join in on the fun from March 14 through St. Patrick’s Day, Saturday, March 17. The Irish classics are available at both Tamo lounge and Aura restaurant.

St. Patrick’s Day Cocktails
Shannon Cider (Tullamore Dew Whiskey, Magners Cider, Simple Syrup, Fresh Lime Juice, Muddled Mint, Poured over ice) $10
Guinness Float (Guinness, Vanilla Ice Cream, Baileys Float) $12
Galway Bay (Jameson Irish Whiskey, Calvados, Fresh Lime Juice, Grenadine, Shaken and served straight up) $10

St. Patrick’s Day Menu
Shepards Pie (A Rich Dish of Stewed Lamb Topped with Mashed Potatoes. Served with a small green side salad) $24
Corned Beef and Cabbage (Our version of a classic dish) $22
Pan Roasted Hake (Colcannon, Baby Carrots, Whole Grain Mustard Beurre Blanc) $24

4)  AKA Bistro, located in Lincoln, is one of my favorite suburban restaurants and their early spring menu will be highlighting sashimi. AKA Bistro chef /owner Chris Chung’'s reputation as a raw fish innovator dates back to 2006, when he was hand-picked by Kenneth Oringer to open Uni Sashimi Bar. Over the next few years, Chung shuttled between east and west coasts as a private chef for a roster of celebrity clients. In 2010, Chung and business partner Christian Touche (Clio's 15 year GM) broke from Clio, with Oringer’s blessing, and headed out to Lincoln to open AKA Bistro.

Chris Chung’s early spring menu includes:
--Seared Maine Sea Urchin with tofu skin, wasabi powder and pomegranate tamari
--Grilled Baby Octopus with avocado cream, king oyster mushrooms and lime chicharron
--Bronzini with pickled burdock root, hot sesame oil and cilantro
--Sea Bream Sashimi with Shanghai style cabbage and shiso granite’
--Striped Bass Sashimi with mango kosho, umeboshi and red shiso
--Kumomoto Oyster with Barberry tapioca and ponzu
--Spanish Mackerel Tataki with curry oil, aji Amarillo and pickled radishes
--Kobe Beef Dumplings with Sukiyaki consommé
--Hokkigai (Surf Clam) Cerviche with tomastoes, oranges, jalapenos
--Shishito (sweet hot peppers) with sesame kabayaki glaze & bonito flake
--Scottish Salmon Sashimi with Hakka soy bean vinaigrette

More than a dozen fine sakes are available by the glass or bottle, and the house cocktail is a mixture of lemongrass syrup and sake ($8)

5)  On Friday, March 16 and Saturday, March 17, Blue on Highland will go green with a special Saint Patrick’s Day menu celebrating the luck of the Irish. Guests are invited to indulge in Irish beef stew ($14), fish & chips with malt vinegar ($16) and grilled rib eye steak with Jameson whiskey butter and colcannon ($28). Diners can top off their festive fare with Blue’s mint chocolate cupcakes ($8) for dessert.

Irish or not, Blue’s Celtic-inspired cocktails will get everyone in a celebratory mood with specials such as the Irish Buck, Bushmills whiskey with ginger beer and fresh lime ($11), St. Germain green cooler ($11), traditional Irish Coffee ($8.50) or Harpoon IPA (yes, it will be dyed green, $6). All food specials will be available for lunch, dinner and takeout on both Friday and Saturday, so head to Blue on Highland and go green this St. Patrick’s Day.

Reservations are recommended. Please RSVP at 781-444-7001.

6)  Beginning with Easter and followed by Mother’s and Father’s Day, Fleming’s Prime Steakhouse & Wine Bar serves a three course sit-down menu with a focus on deliciously traditional dishes. Brunch hours on April 8, Easter Sunday, are 11:30am-3pm. The prix fixe menu is $34.95 per person with a children’s version available for $16.95. Fleming’s traditional a la carte menu will also be available.

“Sunday Brunch always brings back memories of great family get-togethers and traditional dishes,” said Russell Skall, Fleming’s Excutive Chef who created the menu. “There are four excellent entrees, but my favorites are the Filet Mignon Benedict and the New Orleans-Style French Toast—both modern classics that don’t get any better.”

For the Benedict, tender filet mignon is cooked to order, topped with impeccably poached eggs, then crowned with buttery béarnaise sauce tasting of fresh lemon, shallots, and tarragon. Fleming’s New Orleans-Style French Toast is made from thick slices of rich brioche bread soaked in Grand Marnier-flavored cinnamon batter, then cooked in butter until crisp and golden brown on the outside with a velvety interior. A generous dollop of housemade chantilly cream and fresh berries make for a decadent topping. Shrimp or Filet Frittata and a Steakhouse Filet Mignon Cobb Salad round out the main course offerings. Guests start with Fleming’s signature Wedge Salad or a Fresh Fruit Medley, and desserts include a choice of Crème Brûlée, White Chocolate Bread Pudding or Walnut Turtle Pie.

The children’s menu for those under 12 begins with a fresh fruit salad followed by four kid-pleasing entrées, a sundae or sorbet for dessert and includes a beverage.

A brunch cocktail, the Blood Orange Fizz, has been created by Maeve Pesquera, Fleming’s Director of Wine, and is priced at only $6.95. Solerno Blood Orange Liqueur, Stoli Vodka, fresh lemon juice and a splash of club soda is served on the rocks.

Boston Wine Expo: Turtles to Ravines

As usual, I only tasted a sampling of wines at the Boston Wine Expo as there are far more wines available than anyone can reasonably taste in three hours.  So, over the next several days, I will highlight some of my favorite wines of the tasting. 

Turtle Creek Winery is an artisan winery located in Lincoln, Massachusetts and I have lots of respect for its owner/winemaker, Kip Kumler.  The winery produces wines from both imported grapes as well as from those in their own vineyards.  Total annual case production is only around 900 cases, and basically none of their specifc wines are made in lots larger than 170 cases.  Most of their wines cost around $20, making them very good values, and you can find them in more and more Massachusetts wine stores.  Kip is truly passionate about his wines, and it shows in their quality.

At the Expo, I got to taste his 2009 Riesling, 2007 Zinfandel, 2008 Syrah, 2008 Late Harvest Zinfandel and a barrel sample of the 2009 Cabernet Franc.  All of these wines were made from imported grapes, such as the Finger Lakes for the Riesling and California for the others.  He did not have any of his Estate wines available at the Expo.  I really enjoyed the Riesling, an off dry style, and the Zinfandel, which was more restrained than many other California Zins.  The Late Harvest Zinfandel was not overly sweet, and had plenty of acidity and strong fruit flavors.  The Cab Franc also showed much promise, a bold wine with intense blackfruit flavors and no offputting green/vegetal tastes.  I will be seeking that one out when it is finally released.

The Baga grape, primarily from the Bairrada DOC of Portugal, often produces extremely tannic wines. Yet that is not always the case.  The 2008 Quinta do Encontro Vinho Tinto (about $10) is primarily made from Baga with a tiny bit of Merlot added.  This is such a smooth, easy drinking wine that it almost seems difficult to believe it was produced from the tannic Baga.  It is a lush wine, with intense red fruit flavors and some underlying spice notes.  It has character for a wine at this price point and I could easily see this paired with lamb, BBQ or even some pasta with Bolgonese. 

It was a pleasure to once again see Morten Hallgren of Ravines Wine Cellars, an excellent winery located in the Finger Lakes region of New York.  Several Finger Lakes' wineries usually attend the Expo, and I do wish some from Long Island would also make the short trek. But it does not seem they have much concern for the Boston market, or at least marketing through this venue.  I will note that a number of Long Island wineries showcased their wines at the Mohegan Sun Wine Fest in Connecticut.

The Ravines 2008 Chardonnay ($18.95) is unusual as about 20% of the grapes were dried using a traditional drying technique called "appassimento."  Though this can tend to produce sweeter wines, this did not seem to be the case here.  There was plenty of crisp acidity with pleasant fruit flavors of pear, green apple and citrus. The oak elements seemed restrained and I believe this would be an excellent food wine, and could even be enjoyed on its own.  The 2008 Cabernet Franc ($18.95) was also produced partially with the appassimento method, the first time Morten has tried it with this wine, as he wanted to derive a more intense fruitiness. I believe he was successfull, and this is a very fruit forward wine with some herbal notes though not a vegetal taste.

The 2007 Meritage ($24.95) is a blend of 60% Cabernet Sauvignon, 30% Cabernet Franc, and 10% Merlot.  The New York Cork Report selected this wine as the Finger Lakes Red Wine of the Year. Personally, I very much enjoyed this wine, which is closer to Bordeaux than California in style and at this price is it also a very good value.  It is well structured and has a pleasing blend of tannins, acidity, fruit and spice. If there are any criticisms, it might be that it is a bit overly tannic at the moment, and could benefit from a little aging, or simply to be accompanied by a juicy steak.  Check this wine out.

2010: Top Wines Over $50

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wine List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50.  This list only has six entries as there were not enough worthy wines to complete ten entries. Though, you will find that two of the entries are actually wine categories, encompassing numerous wines, so the total amount of wines covered by this list is far more than ten. 

This list includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.  I highly recommend all of these wines, and believe many wine lovers will also enjoy these wines.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and all are definitely worth your consideration. These are not every day wines, but those worth a splurge, those for special celebrations. These are exceptional wines for those wine lovers who want to amaze their palates. Each of the choices is linked to my more detailed prior review. Please also note that the actual price of the wine may vary in your area.

1. 2008 Grüner Veltliner Smaragd Kollmutz Reserve, Austria ($75-$80)
If you are familiar with Grüner, you are probably most familiar with its inexpensive versions, often costing less than $25. You might even think there are not any high-end bottlings of this grape. But that is definitely not the case, and you can find Grüner at all price points. This wine was a stunner, a superb melange of alluring aromas and tastes. It is a "wow" wine and will change your understanding of Grüner, leading you to seek out their superior bottlings.

2. 2007 McGregor Vineyard Black Russian Red, Finger Lakes, NY ($54.99)
I love trying wines produced from obscure grapes as you never know what wonders you might find.  This winery grows a few unusual grapes, including Sereksiya Charni, Saperavi, Rkatsiteli, and Sereksiya Rose. This wine uses two of those grapes, the result reminding me of an exotic Cabernet Sauvignon.  It will age very well, and I was glad to see it only had an alcohol content of 12.5%.  Once again, the Finger Lakes proves it is not just about white wines.

3. Aged Sherry, Spain ($50+)
Sherry is very underappreciated.  But if a wine lover were to taste a VOS (20 year old), VORS (30 year old) or Vintage sherry, they would change their tune.  These are fascinating wines, of great complexity, intense flavors, enticing aromas and much more. While in the Jerez region, I tasted numerous aged sherries, nearly all which thoroughly impressed me, and I bought a number of them to savor at home. These are world-class wines, as good as anything else find in the world. Out of all the recommendations on this list, this gets my highest regard and I cannot recommend them enough.

4. 1999 Jacques Puffeney Vin Jaune, France ($95)
Vin jaune is produced by flor which is similar, though not the same, as that used in making sherry.  Thus, vin jaune can sometimes remind you of sherry. This wine did remind me of manzanilla, its briny apple nature, but it was more complex than the usual manzanilla. There was a blend of interesting but subtle flavors, including herbal notes, and the finish lingered and lingered in my mouth.  The wines of Jura are also underappreciated but well worthy of your consideration.

5. 2004 La Cruz de Comal "Cohete Rojo", Texas ($50)
This is the first wine I have ever tasted that was produced in Texas, and it showed me the potential of this mighty state to produce excellent wine.  It is a natural wine, made with the input of the famed Tony Coturri, and is more European in style than Californian.  A red blend, it brings together fruit, herbs, minerality, earthiness, and more into a compelling wine. This wine is not just a good Texas wine, but is a good wine for any region.

6. Madeira, Portugal ($50+)
This is another underappreciated category of wine, one which should appeal to many wine lovers if they gave it a chance.  Madeira can be either dry or sweet, and ages extremely well. I generally prefer the dry versions, though I understand the allure of the sweet ones too. Some reminded me of sherries, while others had their own unique tastes. Madeira can be quite pricey, but often the most expensive are also the oldest and most rare.  Where else can you find a 100 year old wine that still rocks?

No one region dominated this list, with wines from New York, Texas, France, Spain, Portugal and Austria.  Though California dominated the Top Ten Over $15 list, they are absent from this list. This list has more unusual wines, not the norm praised by many others.  There are no high-end Cabernets here, or top end Pinots. Instead, the list is a path to exploration, to tasting some of the underappreciated, but very compelling, wines that are available.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

2010: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful, and now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15.  But, these wines also cost less than $50. 

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year. I highly recommend all of these wines, and believe many wine lovers will also enjoy these wines.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and all are definitely worth your consideration. Each of the choices is linked to my more detailed prior review. Please also note that the actual price of the wine may vary in your area. 

1. 2008 Spice Route Chakalaka, South Africa (about $18.99)
With a fun name, which refers to a spicy South African relish, this wine is like a ramped up Rhone wine, with an air of the exotic.  An intriguing blend of seven grapes, it has a nice lushness with a balanced flavors and a lengthy finish. It really pleased and intrigued my palate, and was one of my favorite wines of the Boston Wine Expo, as well as another reason why I enjoy South African wines.  

2. 2009 Villicana Vin Rosé, Paso Robles, California ($18)
Yes, I love Rosé and this wine rocked, being one of my favorite wines during my visit to Paso Robles. It reminded me of an Old World Rosé, dry with restrained red fruit flavors. It had nice acidity, was quite refreshing and paired very well with food.  It is not your typical California Rosé and helps to show the potential of the Paso Robles region. 

3. 2006 Anglim Winery Cameo, Paso Robles, California ($22)
Paso Robles does a great job with Rhone grapes, and this white blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier thoroughly impressed me.  Such an alluring aroma led to nuanced and complex flavors, including fruit, floral and mineral.  It was simply an amazing wine and also reflects the great potential of this region.  The winery had other very good wines too, but this stood out to me as especially compelling.

4. 2006 Bodegas Paso Robles Graciano and 2006 Bodegas Paso Robles Pimenteiro, Paso Robles, California (both at $36)
Yes, more wines from Paso Robles and I couldn't choose just one.  This winery is owned by a very passionate woman who makes wines from only Spanish and Portuguese varietals. And she is making plenty of superb and interesting wines, including these two examples.  Both are intriguing and absolutely delicious wines. They are not what you expect from California and will surely please even the most discerning wine lover.  Broaden your palate and be rewarded.

5. 2005 Graham Beck Brut Blanc de Blanc, South Africa ($22)
If you blind tasted this wine, you would probably think it was a Champagne. I found it to be dry and crisp with a complex taste of green apple, pear and hints of cream.  An excellent value at this price, it shows why countries beside France dominate the sparkling wine market at this price point. And it is more proof of the good things being done by South Africa.

6. 2007 Heart and Hands Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes, NY ($39.99)
As I mentioned yesterday, the Finger Lake are best known for their whites, but this wine is another that shows they can make world class reds too, even Pinot Noir.  This was a stunning wine, for which superlatives just don't do it justice.  The passionate owners have handcrafted an amazing Pinot, and I cannot recommend it enough.  If you love Pinot, especially those in the Burgundian style, you really need to find this wine. I probably should have bought even more while I was at the winery.

7. 2009 Georges Dubouef Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine de la Tour du Bief, France ($16.99)
2009 was a top vintage for Beaujolais, and the wines certainly show far more depth than usual. Out of a couple dozen that I have tasted, this wine stood above the others, reminding me of a fine Burgundy. It had intriguing and complex flavors, from ripe plum to subtle earthy notes. It was smooth, delicious and had a lengthy and interesting finish. And at this price, it is a steal.

8. 1997 Coturri Assemblage, California ($29.99)
Tony Coturri makes natural wines, with no added sulfites, and some believe such wines lack an aging potential.  But, this 13 year old wine disproves that, showing plenty of life and potential for even greater aging.  It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, reminding me of a smooth and complex Bordeaux.  This is also a value wine at this price so be sure to scoop up a few bottles, if you can find them, as it is a low production wine. 

9. Quady Deviation, California ($25/375ml)
This was one of the most unique dessert wines I have tasted in quite some time. Upfront, you'll find some mild sweetness and citrus flavors but the finish is dry and herbal, not what you expect. Plenty of complexity, a lengthy finish, and a sheer pleasure in your mouth.  An excellent choice for a jaded palate.

10. Sutton Cellars Brown Label Dry Vermouth, California ($18-$20)
Yes, if you were not aware, Vermouth is actually a wine, which is fortified and aromatized.  This is a dry artisan Vermouth, made from white wine and seventeen other ingredients, including various herbs, barks and roots.  It has a clean, light herbal taste and I prefer to drink it on ice with some club soda.  A great summer drink, or something to warm you on a cold, snowy day.  Forget the mass produced Vermouths, and seek this inexpensive artisan one.

This was a very tough list to compile because there were plenty of other great choices which I could have added. So I had to ponder long over which wines would actually make the list. The final list even surprised me when I examined it in retrospect.   

California clearly dominated the list, occupying six spaces with seven wines, and Paso Robles took three of those places. I visited Paso Robles in the spring and was very impressed with their wines. Interestingly, two of the three spots were of Paso Robles wineries that I visited on my own, and which were not part of my scheduled itinerary.  Last year, my list had only a single California wine so this year was a major change.  But, many of the California wines I chose are clearly more European in style, and not the usual California style.  The other four spots were taken by South Africa (which had two spots), France and the Finger Lakes of New York. 

The list is diverse, with Sparkling Wine, Rosé, White, Red, Fortified and Dessert Wines. There are intriguing and delicious wines being produced in all varieties and styles. I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too.

My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting.  I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

TasteCamp: Seneca Lake Grand Tasting

Leaving Keuka Lake behind, on Saturday we moved onto the wineries of Seneca Lake, attending our second Grand Tasting at Fox Run Vineyards. The first question in my mind was how these wines would compare to those of Keuka Lake and Canandaigua Lake? Would there even be a discernible difference?

Essentially, my tasting results were very similar in that I found a mixed bag of wines, some good, some bad, and a fair number in between. I couldn't say whether the wines from either two regions were generally better or worse than the other. It might have been an interesting test to have tasted similar wines from all of the different lakes to see how they differed, if at all. It is far easier to compare wines when they are all in front of you, rather than tasting different wines on different days. Plus, some Seneca wineries get their grapes from vineyards on other lakes, further confusing matters.

When I considered my favorite wines from this Grand Tasting, I realized I generally preferred the whites to the reds, though I believe there were more whites available for tasting than reds. Their Gewurtztraminer wines often impressed me. My only complaint with this tasting that it would have been good, with so many wines available, to had at least some crackers to help cleanse our palates. There was no food, lots of wines, and that seemed to lead to plenty of palate fatigue from some of the attendees I spoke to.

Here are my favorites of the tasting, those I found most interesting, noting though that I did not taste everything available.

White Springs Winery
This winery, founded in 2003, has about 40 acres of vineyards, primarily of vinifera grapes.

The 2007 Gewurtraminer ($13.99) was produced during a good vintage, 322 cases were made and it has an alcohol content of 12.7%. It had a nice golden color and was very aromatic, with exotic fruit smells and some spice. On the palate, it was crisp and dry with delightful tastes of melon, apricot, and mild spice notes. An excellent value wine with plenty of character.

Lakewood Vineyards:
The Stamp family began planting grapes on Seneca Lake back into 1951, selling them off until they decided in 1988 to make their own wine. They now have 75 acress of grapes and produce over 20 different wines.

The 2007 Candeo ($14.99), made from Cayuga White, is a carbonated wine, with a light effervescence reminiscent of some Proseccos. It is carbonated and does not undergo a secondary fermenation. With an alcohol content of 11% ABV, it has a mild aroma and a light, refreshing taste with a mild sweetness and citrus flavors. It is sealed with a crown cap and is a fun, simple wine that should be very consumer friendly.

Wagner Vineyards
I first tasted some of their wines, their whites, back in 2009 at the Boston Wine Expo and was impressed. They make some delicious value wines, and they can produce an excellent red too.

The 2007 Meritage ($24.99) is a Bordeaux style blend which is only produced in good years, the last Meritage having been bottled in 2001. This wine is a blend of 55% Cabernet Franc, 35% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 10% Merlot, all the grapes having been hand harvested. It saw 11 months of American oak and only 988 cases were produced. This was a very satisfying wine with delicious flavors of black cherry, plum, vanilla and some mild spice notes. It is a smooth wine, with mild tannins, and a moderately long finish with a whisper of chocolate. For the price, this is a very good wine.

Glenora Wine Cellars
They were the first winery on Seneca Lake, established in 1977, and now produce about 45,000 cases of wine each year.

The 2009 Pinot Blanc ($13-14) was briefly barrel fermented in French oak and has an alcohol content of 12.5% ABV. As of the tasting, it had not yet released. This wine had a strong and appealing pear aroma which also came through on the taste too. In addition, this crisp wine had additional and milder tastes of citrus and vanilla. A very pleasing wine which is also a very good value wine.

Red Newt Cellars
Early this year, at the Boston Wine Expo, I tasted a number of the Red Newt Wines and found plenty, both whites and reds, that I enjoyed. At this Grand Tasting, I tasted one more that impressed me.

The 2007 "Curry Creek Vineyards" Gewurtztraminer ($41.99) is pricey and only 230 cases were produced. But it packs lots of character and complexity into the bottle. The nose is very alluring, with intriguing floral and spice aromas. Its taste seems a bit more unusual and distinctive, both like a traditional Gewurtztraminer but with its own differences as well. There are plenty of exotic fruit and spices tastes, and the finish is long and very pleasing. This was a "wow" wine, and if you enjoy this grape then you will be very impressed with this wine, and feel it is worth the price.

Atwater Estate Vineyards
This winery was established in 2000, and they currently produce about 8500 cases annually.

The 2008 Gewurtztraminer ($16) was made from grapes that were kept on vines for two weeks longer than usual. The wine had a nice golden color with a bright aroma of citrus and exotic fruit. On the palate, there are delicious flavors of citrus, lychee and apple and the finish is very spicy. A lush wine, this would be perfect with spicy Asian cuisine.

Shaw Vineyards
Wine maker Steve Shaw, pictured above, has been involved in grape growing in the Finger Lakes for over 30 years. He founded his own winery in 2002, growing most of his own grapes, and trying to produce vinifera wines in a European style. His grapes are hand harvested, and nearly all of his red wines undergo extended barrel aging. That is the reason that the reds I tasted were all from 2005, his newest releases. And all three of those reds impressed me and I recommend them.

The 2005 Merlot ($30) has an alcohol content of 13% and a pleasant aroma of black cherries and raspberry. Both fruit flavors came out in the taste, which was smooth, complex and quite delicious. It was a Merlot of character, rather than something simple and boring. As you contemplated the taste, you found layers of flavor, including some light floral notes and hints of licorice. A wine to enjoy on its own or with food.

The 2005 Cabernet Franc ($25) spent 36 months in French oak and has an alcohol content of 13%. This is a Cabernet Franc that I really enjoyed, without any of that nasty green pepper taste I dislike. It was very smooth with flavors of black cherry, ripe plum, vanilla, spice and some violet undertones. It was also a complex wine, with a long and pleasing finish. A bit of a richer wine than the Merlot, it still would be nice on its own or paired with food.

The 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon ($35) also has an alcohol content of 13%. Another excellent, complex and intiguing red wine. The fruit flavors of ripe plum, blueberry and blackberry mesh well with spice, vanilla and bits of mocha. The tannins are subdued, making this another smooth drinking wine. The lengthy finish is very satisfying and though I might prefer to drink this wine with food, I still think it can stand on its own too. It is a bit more full bodied than the Cabernet Franc and has some spice elements.

Finger Lakes Distilling
This Grand Tasting did not include just wine. This company uses locally grown fruits and grains to produce a line of spirits, including vodka, gin, whiskey, liqueurs, brandy and grappa.

I was most impressed by their McKenzie Rye Whiskey ($39.99) which is made with 80% Rye and 20% Barley. The whiskey is 91 proof and has been aged for one year in new charred quarter casks and finished in sherry barrels. I was surprised at how smooth this whiskey was, as I was expecting a bit of a harsher bite. It had a pleasant flavor too, plenty of spice, vanilla, nut, and touches of citrus. This is definitely something I could savor on the rocks. Plus, I like how it is made from local ingredients.

TasteCamp: Damiani Wine Cellars

Saturday morning, we rose bright and early for the first TasteCamp East 2010 event of the day, a vineyard walk at Damiani Wine Cellars on Seneca Lake. Saturday was devoted to the wineries of Seneca Lake. Half of our group that morning went to Damiani while the other half went for a vineyard walk at Argetsinger Vineyard. I had wanted to visit Damiani as I had previously tasted one of their Pinot Noirs and really liked it. I was not disappointed in my choice.

Prior to our tour, we were provided some breakfast, which included homemade quiches, some fruit, and a locally made cinnamon cake. Amy Cheatle, the Tasting Room Manager, made the quiches, which were very good, albeit a couple containing far too many veggies for my own preferences.

After breakfast, Phil Davis, the Damiani viticulturist, led us into one of their vineyards, explaining about their agricultural practices. They own about 23 acres of vineyards, though they still buy some additional grapes. But even when they buy grapes, Phil remains very much involved in the viticulture practices and decision making at those other vineyards. That ensures the grapes meet his strict standards.

Phil spent about 25 years as a logger, though also always had a vineyard. He now works full-time in the vineyard. We saw some of their vines for Cabernet Sauvignon, Pinot Noir and Sauvignon Blanc. Phil planted the Sauvignon Blanc for his wife, as that is her favorite wine. The vineyard was fairly steep, and I don't think the photos really do justice to just how steep they were. Phil mentioned that it is difficult to generalize about Finger Lakes vineyards as they often differ in so many ways.

Phil was a font of information, very down to earth and obviously passionate about his work. Above you can see some of the TasteCamp attendees, enthralled by Phil's words. You can also partially see some of the steepness of the vineyard.

After visiting the vineyard, we returned to the tasting room to taste a few Pinot Noirs. We began with the 2007 Reserve Pinot Noir, which is not made every year. It is a low production wine, and the grapes have been fermented in separate vats, with minor cold soaking. Burgundian yeasts were applied and only French oak was used, both neutral and new. The 2007 spent 14 months in oak, and Lou Damiani, the wine maker, noted that he dislikes overly oaked wines. The wine was also unfined and unfiltered. The wine was very Burgundian in style, with light red color and a nose of black cherry and earth. On the palate, the earthiness was more prominent, with flavors of black cherry, raspberry, plum and mild spicy notes. Complex, a lengthy finish, and restrained tannins. This is the type of Pinot Noir that I really enjoy, and it was an impressive wine.

The 2008 Pinot Noir was a lesser version of the 2007, similar in style but not equal in quality. It was still a very good wine, and something I enjoyed, but it just was not as good as the 2007. It still deserves my recommendation. We also got to taste a barrel sample of the 2009 Pinot Noir, which presented lots of fruit up front. It seemed rather simple, though I expect it will get more complex as it ages and develops.

Many people probably don't consider Pinot Noir to be a grape that will grow well in the Finger Lakes, but they are very wrong. Small boutique wineries like Damiani and Heart & Hands show that high quality Pinot Noir can be produced in this region. Their Pinot Noirs are more Old World than New World, and the future looks bright.

TasteCamp: Ravines Wine Cellars

I first got a chance to taste the wines of Ravines Wine Cellars back in 2009 at the Boston Wine Expo. I liked several of their wines and it was one of the wineries that convinced me of the potential of the Finger Lakes region.

At TasteCamp East 2010, after our Heron Hill Grand Tasting, we drove to Ravines Wine Cellars (pictured above) for a private tasting. It is a small winery, created and operated by Morten and Lisa Hallgren, a Dutch Winemaker/Oenologist and his Chef/Foodie wife. Their objective is to create "elegant and food friendly wines using Old World winemaking traditions with New World innovation." They specialize in dry European-style wines and produce about seven to eight thousand cases of wine annually.

Morten was raised in the Provence region of France and his family owned and operated Domaine de Castel Roubine. From the age of fifteen, Morten began working at the family winery. He eventually received an advanced degree in both Enology and Viticulture at the Ecole Nationale Supérieure d’Agronomie in Montpellier, one of the world’s top winemaking schools, and spent his first harvest in Bordeaux, at Chateau Cos d’Estournel.

Eventually, Morten moved to the U.S. and spent six years working as the chief winemaker for Dr. Frank’s Vinifera Wine Cellars. In 2000, Morten purchased his own land and vineyards in the Finger Lakes region. The estate is situated between two deep ravines, which became the namesake for the winery.

Morten presided over the tasting, sharing his thoughts about his wines as well as on the Finger Lakes region in general. He came across as very straight-forward and sincere. He mentioned the debate between the quality of westwide and eastside wineries. The westside gets the early sun and the eastside gets the late afternoon sun, and consequently their grapes are usually riper. He also stated his belief that wineries should not label their wines as "estate" because most wineries are only first and second generation, and "estate" vineyards really need many more years before it can be determined whether that label is appropiate or not.

He also added that the Finger Lakes is a remote region and thus it is very easy to become insular. So, Morten feels the region needs to acquire a broader perspective, which will be helped by an influx of fresh, new wine makers. That is probably true of many wine regions, though more so the more isolated area. Plus, he does not believe the region will ever have organic wineries as the climate is not conducive to such.

We got to taste nine of their wines, including Riesling, Rosé, Pinot Noir, Cabernet Franc, Meritage, and Merlot. Lisa (pictured above) assisted with the tasting and even made the crackers which were on the tables to help cleanse our palates. They were simple crackers but quite delicious, and I would usually not mention crackers, but these were much better than the usual. Plus they were homemade, and that is a rarity when most crackers come from store bought boxes.

The tasting began with three vintages, 2006-2008, of their Dry Riesling ($16.95-$18.95) as well as the 2008 Dry Riesling ($24.95) from the Argetsinger Vineyard. My favorite of the Rieslings was the Argetsinger, where the grapes come from one of the oldest Riesling vineyards in the region. The nose presented an alluring aroma of green apple and floral notes. On the palate, I was enthralled by its complexity, an interesting blend of green apple, citrus, mineral notes, and hints of herbs. It was crisp and dry with a long and satisfying finish. The 2006 Dry Riesling also impressed me, just not as much as the Argetsinger. It was similar to the Argetsinger in many respects, just to a slightly lesser degree.

The 2008 Dry Pinot Rosé ($14.95) seemed to me to be somewhere between an Old World and New World style. It had an almost orange color with a mild red fruit aroma. On the palate, it was mostly dry with bright strawberry flavors. A pleasant wine, perfect for the summer and would be a nice accompaniement for many different foods.

The 2007 Pinot Noir ($22.95), which I had previously tasted last year, actually seemed better to me this time, possibly due to its additional time in the bottle. Besides its red fruit flavors, there also seemed to be some earthy and spicy notes in the wine, reminscent of a Burgundy. Those later flavors had not been so apparent the last time I tasted this wine. Thus, I enjoyed this wine very much and would recommend it.

Ravines is producing some very good wines, which are reasonably priced, and I suspect the quality will only continue to improve as Morten hones his wine-making skills in this region. Morten and Lisa are both passionate individuals, and their love of wine is contagious. If you are visiting the region, you should stop by for a tasting. Or maybe Lisa will be back next year at the Boston Wine Expo.

A Passion for Pinot at Cayuga Lake

One of my favorite experiences of TasteCamp was our tour and tasting at the Heart & Hands Wine Company. They make an exceptional Pinot Noir, which certainly surprised me. Pinot Noir from the Finger Lakes? Definitely, yes! You can read about this winery, its Pinot Noir and my thoughts at my guest post on the New York Cork Report.

TasteCamp: Grand Tasting at Heron Hill Winery

TasteCamp did not try to gently ease us in. Instead, we were immediately immersed into a large wine tasting, setting the stage for a marathon weekend of tasting. TasteCamp is not for the faint of heart, or small of bladder. But at least you can pace yourself. And no one keeps track of how much or how little you drink.

Our first official event for TasteCamp East 2010 was a Grand Tasting of wines from Keuka Lake and Canandaigua Lake wineries. The tasting and luncheon were held at the Heron Hill Winery, pictured above. About ten wineries presented a sampling of their wines and we were able to taste as many or as few as we desired. I tasted a fair share of the wines, though certainly not all of them. Pacing was important as there would be plenty more wines to taste later that day.

The entry way into the Heron Hill winery. It is a stylish winery with an elegant tasting room, and a nice gift shop. I picked up a couple jars of local Luke's Pickled Garlic Scapes, both Jalapeno and Dill, and they turned out to be quite delicious.

Heron Hill has been producing wine for over 30 years, and they currently produce about 20,000 cases each year, with almost 20 wine varieties. The owner of Heron Hill is John Ingle, pictured above, and I sat next to him during lunch. I found him to be a very down-to-earth and personable, with a true passion for wine. I have tasted some of their wines before, especially impressed with their Blaufrankisch and Cabernet Franc.

Also pictured above is Morgen McLaughlin, the President of the Finger Lakes Wine Country Tourism Marketing Association. She too is passionate, an ardent advocate of the wines of the Finger Lakes region. I have previously met her at the Boston Wine Expo and it was a pleasure to see and chat with her again.

The various wine makers and winery representatives held court at the lengthy bar. The attendees could check out any winery we wished, tasting whatever they had to offer. This was an important tasting as it would likely set the tenor for the rest of the weekend. If the wines largely disappointed, attendees might be more critical of the rest of the wines that weekend. If the wines were raves, then the good mood might extend through Sunday. It would also reflect on the organizers. Had they chosen the appropriate starting point for TasteCamp, or had they chosen something which would taint the rest of the weekend?

In the end, I found a mixed bag of wines, some very good, some very bad, and a fair number in between. Which is really a snapshot of any wine region, almost a bell curve of sorts, and there is little else you can ask for. So, this first tasting was a good choice for the start. I think it presented a realistic picture of the region, showing its assets and flaws.

Here are some of the wines which most resonated with me, for various reasons. Some because they used grapes new to me, others because I thought they were especially good wines.

Hunt County Vineyards:

The 2008 Valvin Muscat ($14.99) is made from 100% Valvin Muscat, a hybrid grape developed at Cornell University in the 1960s. This wine was aged in stainless steel, made in an off-dry style, has an alcohol content of 12%, and only 529 cases were produced. I found it to be very aromatic, with intense floral and pineapple smells. On the palate, there were flavors of exotic fruits with hints of orange and only a touch of sweetness. It was a very interesting taste and had a moderately long and satisfying finish. I think this is a good value wine.

(It is interesting to note that the winery website mentions which of their wines are considered Vegan.)

Arbor Hill Winery:

This winery is where I first met my new nemesis, the Noiret grape, a hybrid that appears to be treasured for its green pepper flavor. Just say no to Noiret! I prefer to eat my salad with a fork, and not to drink it. Their 2007 Vergennes, also made from a hybrid new to me, was not to my liking.

I did like their 2007 Classic Traminette ($12.95), which had some tasty pineapple and grapefruit flavors, and was intrigued by the NV Griesa Hill Iona Rose ($9.95). The more unique Iona grape has made an interesting, more New World style Rose, with nice cherry and raspberry flavors, and only a bit of sweetness. Should be very consumer friendly, especially during the summer.

Wilhemus Estate Vineyards:

Though I was not a fan of their wines, I do think they had a fascinating story to tell. It is the only winery in a dry town on Canandaigua Lake. A legal loophole allowed them to establish the winery. Wilhelmus Kuenen, a Dutch immigrant, brought his family to the U.S. when his son, Boud, was seven years old. Wilhelmus started making wine in 1958, and continued to do so even after his retirement. In 2007, Boud opened his own winery, after a career in the aerospace industry, and named it after his father.

Imagine Moore Winery:

Their 2007 Synchronicity ($20.99) is a blend of 50% Cabernet Franc and 50% Syrah, and was aged in New York and Missouri oak. I really enjoyed the flavor of this wine, with its subdued dark berries, ripe plum and spicy backbone. The tannins were restrained and the finish was long and enjoyable. A fair amount of complexity and it comes at a reasonable price.

The 2008 Passion ($39.99) is a 100% Traminette Ice Wine where the grapes have frozen on the vine. It only has an alcohol content of 11% ABV and is not overly sweet, presenting some delicious flavors of honey, pineapple, orange peel and hints of floral.

Casa Larga Vineyards:

For an inexpensive wine, their 2006 Pinot Noir ($12.99) is a pleasant, easy-drinking Pinot. It only has an alcohol content of 12%, has a nice fruity aroma, and the palate brings cherry and raspberry flavors. It is a simple wine, but pleasing nonetheless and would make for a good food wine.

Keuka Spring Vineyards:

I would taste a number of excellent Gewurtraminers in the Finger Lake region, and it started with their 2008 Gewurtztraminer ($16.99). With an alcohol content of 13%, this wine was very aromatic, a typical Gewurtz smell. It had a delicious and crisp taste, with exotic fruits and mild spice notes. A very good food wine and something to intrigue the palate.

McGregor Vineyard:

Probably my favorite wines of this tasting came from this winery. Though the winery was established in 1980, the McGregor family actually began planting vineyards in 1971. They planted both vinefera and hybrids, though other locals were skeptical about the vinifera. But they did succeed, and currently grow a variety of grapes, including some very rare ones including Sereksiya Charni, Saperavi Rkatsiteli, and Sereksiya Rose.

The first wine I tasted was their 2008 Rkatsiteli-Sereksiya ($24.99). They are the only producer of Sereksiya Rosé in the US and one of only two Rkatsiteli producers in the Finger Lakes. The wine has an alcohol content of 11.43% and only 207 cases were produced. This wine seemed very exotic to me, with a complex mouthful of flavors including citrus, lychee, melon, pineapple, and some spice. It was crisp and well-balanced, with a very pleasing finish. It reminded me a bit of an Albarino crossed with a Gewurtztraminer. It was certainly a unique wine and I was impressed.

The 2007 Cabernet Franc Reserve ($24.99) was aged for about 19 months in American oak, has an alcohol content of 12.7% and only 386 cases were produced. It had a light red color with a pleasant aroma of red fruits. It did not contain any green pepper smell or taste. On the palate, it had lush black cherry, raspberry and blueberry flavors with bits of spice, especially on the long finish. A very smooth, easy-drinking wine with some character, this would be good on its own or with food.

The 2007 Black Russian Red ($54.99) is a blend of two rare grapes, Saperavi and Sereksiya Charni. The wine has an alcohol content of 12.5% and only 293 cases were produced. The wine undergoes 100% malolactic fermentation and is aged for at least 19 months in Minnesota oak. Generally this wine needs lots of cellaring, about ten years, to tame its huge tannins. But this vintage seemed very drinkable now. It is a complex wine, with an abundance of aromas and taste which all harmoniously blend. In some respects, it is like a Cabernet Sauvignon, except there are some hints of exoticism so you realize you have something very different in your class. Blackfruits, vanilla, smoke, leather, spice and much, much more. A very lengthy finish, and you will still crave even more. A top notch wine, despite the price, and a blend you may never see made by any other producer.

Remember: The key to such marathon tastings is lots of spitting, plus eat something if you can. And it would be a lengthy weekend of spitting!

TasteCamp 2010: Overall Impressions

TasteCamp East 2010 is over yet I am sure we will be talking about it for some time to come. This was the second TasteCamp, the first having been held last year on Long Island. This year, we explored the Finger Lakes region of New York and the crowd of wine bloggers and their significant others was a bit larger, around 35 or so people. That was still a very manageable number.

Like last year's event, it was another fun weekend, filled with some excellent wine and food as well as great people and conversation. Plus, it was informative and educational. Lenn and Evan of the New York Cork Report were the primary organizers, though they had assistance from a number of people, and deserve recognition for putting together a well-run and exciting event. I think this year's TasteCamp ran smoother than last year.

I cannot forget to give special thanks go to all the wineries, wine makers, winery owners and others in the Finger Lakes region who showed such great hospitality to all of us. We were warmly greeted everywhere, made to feel welcome, and treated with respect.

It was also a pleasure to meet the other wine bloggers who attended, some who I met last year, and others who I met for the first time. We shared much wine and food, plenty of stimulating discussions and lots of laughter. They are good people, and they made TasteCamp even more enjoyable. I hope to see some of them again next month at the Wine Blogger's Conference.

I left for TasteCamp at 1am early Friday morning, to avoid traffic and to get there at a reasonable time. It is about a 6 1/2 hour ride, plus I figured on stopping for breakfast somewhere on route. It is a fairly direct and easy route, and if you wanted to vacation in the area it would not be difficult to get there.

I stayed at the Watkin's Glen Harbor Hotel, and above you can see the view from my hotel room. It was a very nice hotel, and the rooms were roomy and comfortable. It seems to be one of the better hotels in that area, within easy walking distance of downtown Watkins Glen. It is also a good location for exploring both sides of Seneca Lake. The weather was also very interesting over the weekend, from 70 and sunny on Friday to snow flurries on Sunday.

So, based on my experiences during TasteCamp, what are my general thoughts about Finger Lake wines, the region and their wine industry?

I should preface my comments, noting that I had tasted maybe 40 or so Finger Lakes wines prior to visiting the region. I encountered a number of them at previous Boston Wine Expos and also participated in some Twitter Taste Live events that involved wines from the Finger Lakes. This prior experience gave me a generally positive view of the wines from that region so I was curious whether my new experiences would conform to my old ones or not.

Plus, I wanted to know how the Finger Lakes stacked up against Long Island. Were these two New York wine regions similar, or were there significant differences between the two? I expected the answer to be in the middle, with both similarities and differences. And I eventually found my expectations to be accurate.

First, a similarity. Like Long Island, the Finger Lake wineries are producing some excellent wines, both reds and whites, including some very impressive wines. The region also contains a nice diversity of wineries, wine makers, philosophies and styles. It is definitely an area that deserves exploration by wine lovers.

Second, a difference. For the most part, the Long Island wineries are close together and it is very easy to visit them within a short time period. But, with the Finger Lakes wineries, they are spread out across a few different lakes so there is more travel time involved in checking out the wineries. That just means you need to devote a bit more time to visiting the region than you might Long Island. But, as the area is beautiful, and there are many other activities available to do, you can easily fill that extra time.

Third, another similarity. Like many Long Island wineries, those of the Finger Lakes often embrace more of an Old World style than they do a California style. Alcohol contents are rarely above 14%, and often are closer to 12-13%. As I generally prefer Old World style wines, this really pleased me.

Fourth, a similarity and difference. As much of Long Island appears to have embraced Merlot as their signature grape, so does the Finger Lakes have their own signature grape, though it is Riesling. It almost seemed like every winery felt obligated to make some Riesling, and I definitely had a Riesling tasting overload. As I have said before, I think wineries should move beyond a single grape, and try to produce a nice variety, experimenting with many grapes to see how they all do in the region.

Fifth, another difference. In Long Island, I found some good value wines but also felt there was a significant number of higher priced wines that were just not worth the price. In the Finger Lakes, I felt the pricing in general was more reasonable. Yes, I found some wines that I felt were overpriced, but not to the extent I found in Long Island. And I think there were many more value wines in the Finger Lakes than in Long Island.

Sixth, a similarity. The food seemed equally as good in both wine regions, and I was glad to see a reliance on local and sustainable foods in several of the restaurants. But, I would have liked to see more farm stands in the Finger Lakes region. Though maybe it was just too early in the season for them. When traveling from winery to winery, there often were few places you could stop in between and it would have been nice to have a few farmstands or farmers' markets to visit.

As for the Finger Lakes specifically, what stood out to me?

Despite all the attention given to Riesling and other white grapes, the region is making some killer reds too. From exceptional Pinot Noir to more unique grapes like Sereksiya, it was probably the reds that most impressed me. Yes, I enjoyed plenty of delicious white wines, but finding such high quality reds, and often for a reasonable price, really thrilled me. Though the best reds seem to be made by small, passionate producers who work very hard at handcrafting high quality wines. It takes much time and effort to produce a great wine.

There was an interesting dichotomy between wine makers who did a lot of manipulation to their wines in the winery, and those who adopted a more hands off approach. Some of the wine makers freely admitted to all sorts of winery techniques for crafting exactly the type of wine they desired. Other were more willing to allow the grape to speak for itself, to nurture the grape rather than make it conform to their desires.

My favorite event of the weekend was the tour and tasting at Heart & Hand Wine Company and my least favorite thing was that we were unable to arrange a poker tournament. Hopefully next year we will be able to do so. It might also have been good to have less Rieslings because after awhile, they started to all blur together.

Though I once had disdain for Cabernet Franc, I have had to change my mind as I have found too many wines made from this grape which I have enjoyed. At TasteCamp, I actually tasted several delicious Cabernet Franc wines from the Finger Lakes. But, I also acquired a new vinous nemesis, the Noiret grape. This is a hybrid grape, officially released in 2006, which has a prominent green pepper flavor (which I dislike). The green pepper seems to be an integral aspect of the grape so I am doubtful I will find any wines made from this grape that I will ever enjoy.

In the near future, I will go into more details about the wineries we visited, the wines we tasted and the food we ate. Plus, you can go to the TasteCamp website and check out the posts from all of the other attendees.

I had a great time in the Finger Lakes and recommend it to all wine lovers as a vacation spot.

TasteCamp: BYOB & Watari Bune Junmai Daiginjo

How do you intrigue a group of wine lovers and geeks? You let them taste something outside their comfort zone, something more unique which they might not normally taste on their own. And you hope that they enjoy what you bring.

At the recent TasteCamp in the Finger Lakes region of New York, there was a BYOB event aboard a ship docked on Seneca Lake and very close to our hotel. I knew I wanted to bring a Saké, in hopes of gaining some converts to this delicious drink. As I pondered the choices in my cellar, I knew only that I wanted something to impress, something to show the vast potential of Saké. In the end, I settled on a Junmai Daiginjo.

The Watari Bune Junmai Daiginjo ($125/720ml) is made by the Huchu Homare Brewery, which is located in the town of Ishioka, in the Ibaraki prefecture. Hundreds of years ago, Ishioka was the capital, or huchu, of the prefecture. When the brewery was founded in 1854, it was named "Huchu Homare" which translates as the “Pride of the capital." The brewery is still relatively small, only producing about twelve thousand cases of Saké each year.

This Saké is made from a rare heirloom variety of rice, Watari Bune. This rice, up to the 1930s, had been very popular but it was more vulnerable to the elements and eventually fell into disuse. But this brewery wanted to resurrect it, and found preserved seedlings at the Japanese Agricultural Research Center. The brewery planted them in 1988, and finally harvested their first batch in 1990. They are the only brewery that uses this rice.

As I mentioned, Watari Bune is an heirloom variety, a pure rice strain, and it should be noted that most Saké rices used today are hybrids. Watari Bune may also be the father strain to Yamada Nishiki, often considered the king of Saké rice.

This Saké has had its rice polished to 35%, and an SMV +3, making it slightly dry. It has an acidity of 1.4, an amino acidity of 1.0 and was pressed by hand in fune. It is a very impressive Saké, which enthralls with its complexities. On both the nose and palate, you will find a variety of smells and flavors, from floral notes to fruit, including melon, pineapple and peach. It is richer than some other daiginjos, and fills your mouth with bliss. The more you sip and savor each taste, pondering over what is in your mouth, the more you will find in it. It remains a very accessible Saké as well, and newcomers will still very much enjoy it.

What pleased me most were the comments from others who tasted this with me, their hugely positive comments, some stating that this was the best Saké they ever tasted. Joe of 1WineDude, Richard of Silene's Cellar, John of Anything Wine, and Michael of Undertaking Wine all gave it rave reviews.

I had accomplished what I set out to do, to spread my passion for Saké by sharing something many others had not experienced before. Hopefully these people will seek out more Saké in the future, and Saké love will grow and grow.

I have to add as well that this BYOB event was tons of fun in a cool venue. Lots of bloggers, some local wine makers, and dozens of bottles of wine. Even though we had been tasting wine all day, we all still were pumped to drink even more, and there was far less spitting aboard the ship. Many people brought some excellent wines and it was great to chat with so many different people. It was difficult for a few people to get up the next morning, but there were no complaints that night. Just some typical blogger debauchery.

TTL: Sparkling Wines of the Finger Lakes

I am generally not a big fan of inexpensive Champagne. I think there are much better values found in sparkling wines from other regions, such as Spanish Cava or Italian Prosecco. Some U.S. wineries also make excellent value sparkling wines, such as Westport Rivers in Massachusetts and Gruet Winery in New Mexico.

Thus, when the opportunity arose, I was very interested in checking out some bubbly from the Finger Lakes region. Lenn of New York Cork Report and Morgan of Finger Lakes Wine Country recently hosted a Taste Live event, showcasing four sparkling wines. Representatives of some of the wineries were also present, discussing their wines and answering questions.

Locally, I hosted the tasting at my home and my friends and fellow bloggers Dale and Amanda came over to share the wines with me. This was Amanda's first Taste Live event and you can check out her thoughts. We ordered some delicious Thai for dinner, and I think it was a fun choice with the bubbly. Prior to the start of the tasting, I also shared a Saké with Dale and he enjoyed it!

Interestingly enough, the three of us agreed on the top two wines of the evening, and our top choice also seemed very popular with most of the others on Twitter. But, as usual, there were plenty of very different opinions about the wines and they involved more than just differing flavors. For example, Dale and I felt the finish on the Chateau Frank was too short, yet others on Twitter felt it had a rather long finish. Always fascinating.

My favorite wine of the evening, as well as the least expensive, was the NV Goose Watch Winery Pinot Noir Brut Rosé ($18). This wine is a blend of 79% Pinot Noir and 21% Chardonnay. It has an alcohol content of 12% and only 600 cases were produced. I loved the crisp strawberry and bright cherry flavors of this Rosé, which had only a touch of sweetness. It felt very refreshing, clean and we loved it so much that we finished off the bottle after the tasting was concluded. At less than $20, I think it is a very good value and I would highly recommend it.

My next favorite was the NV Lucas Vineyards Extra Dry Cayuga White ($18.99), made from a hybrid grape, Cayuga White, and with an alcohol content of 12%. With a mild sweetness, this wine showed plenty of acidity with tasty apple and melon flavors. A pleasant, easy-drinking wine that would likely please most people. I would have thought this sparkler was made with Chardonnay, but am pleased that Cayuga can produce wines as good as this one. I think this is also a good value wine and would recommend it as well.

The 2002 Chateau Frank Blanc de Blancs ($29.99) is a blend of 90% Chardonnay and 10% Pinot Blanc. It only has an alcohol content of 11.5%, and was the most expensive wine of the evening. It was a pleasant sparkler, with nice green apple and lemon flavors and a mild yeasty touch. But, the finish seemed too short and I would have liked more acidity. Though I did enjoy this wine, I think it is too pricey for what you get, especially considering the previous two sparklers which cost under $20.

My least favorite of the evening was the 2002 Glenora Wine Cellars Brut ($24.99), a blend of 54% Pinot Noir and 46% Chardonnay. It has an alcohol content of 13%, the highest of the four wines. I felt this wine had too much of a yeasty flavor for my preferences, but then I have never been a fan of yeasty Champagnes either. I can see though that if you like this style of bubbly, then you might enjoy this wine.

But the Glenora did impress me for one reason, where the other three let me down. I believe the term "Champagne" is proper only for sparkling wine from the Champagne region of France. I dislike when non-French wineries call their own sparkling wines "champagnes." It only confuses consumers, and that seems to be part of their reason for using the term. But as someone who wants to educate consumers, I think it is wrong. Wineries should respect the term and not use it.

The Goose Watch, Lucas and Chateau Frank sparklers all state they are "champagne." The Goose Watch and Lucas only mention it on their websites, while the Chateau Frank actually has it on its label. Now, legally, they might be able to do so, due to a grandfather clause. But, just because they can do something does not mean they should.