Slow Wine Guide Tasting: Italy, California & Oregon (Part 1)

When you're confronted with about 300 wines available for tasting, you have to make some hard decisions. In only four hours, no one can properly taste and give respect to all of those wines so you need to be very selective as to which of those wines you'll sample. Forced to be selective, I knew that I'd miss out on tasting some interesting and delicious wines. However, I was pleased to find some compelling wines which were well worthy of attention.

The 2019 U.S. Slow Wine Tour visited five cities, starting in San Francisco and ending in Boston, where it took place at the City Winery. The Tour was intended to showcase the release of the 2019  Slow Wine Guide, a wine review guide which doesn't use numeric scores to assess wine. This guide is an offshoot of the Slow Food movement, which was established in Italy, in Piedmont, by foodways activist Carlo Petrini as a way to protect the world’s gastronomic traditions.

Their website states their basic philosophy, "Slow Food believes that wine, just as with food, must be good, clean, and fair--not just good. Wine is an agricultural product, just like any of the foods we eat, and has an impact on the lives of the people who produce it, as well as on the environment--through pesticides, herbicides and excessive water consumption which are all commonplace in conventional wine production." The first edition of the annual Slow Wine Guide, centered on Italian wines, was published in 2010, with an English translation released the next year. To review their wines, they visited each winery, spoke about their agricultural practices & wine production, blind-tasted their wines, and then composed their reviews.

In 2017, Slow Wine decided to expand their coverage to California, so they traveled there, visiting and evaluating hundreds of wineries. The 2018 Slow Wine Guide was the first to include reviews of California wineries, 70 in all. For the 2019 Slow Wine Guide, they expanded their California coverage to include over 130 wineries. In addition, they have added coverage of Oregon, including about 50 wineries. As their website states, "Oregon’s commitment to sustainable wine-making and respect for the terroir is consistent with Slow Wine’s principles and its mission to support local agriculture."

In addition, they note, "Like last year’s book, the 2019 guide isn’t intended to be exhaustive or comprehensive: it’s a growing, living, and breathing almanac that’s meant to give voice to the new wave of America’s viticultural renaissance." Next year's guide will continue to grow, including more wineries from California and Oregon, and possibly reaching out to other U.S. states as well. Though the inclusion of other states might take a bit longer.

I didn't know until I arrived at the Slow Wine tasting that approximately 300 wines were available for sampling. I was pleasantly surprised at the size of the event. Representatives of 85 wineries were present, including 79 from Italy, 3 from California and 3 from Oregon, each pouring about three wines. Some of the Italian regions covered include Emilia-Romagna, Lazio, Marche, Piedmont, Veneto, Puglia, Sicily, Tuscany, Umbria, and more. There were also three joint tables, representing the Prosecco DOC, Lugana DOC, and Bardolino Chiaretto DOC, which added about another 50 wines. Some of the wineries were seeking importers but a significant amount are already available locally.

In the tasting event guidebook, some of the wineries and wines were marked with various symbols or phrases, indicating something special. The wineries might be marked with a Snail, Bottle, or Coin while the wines might be marked as Slow Wine, Great Wine or Everyday Wine. In short, the Snail indicates those wineries whose values align with the Slow Food movement, the Bottle indicates high quality, and the Coin indicates excellent value. The Slow Wine designation represents "an expression of place, originality and history," while the other two phrases are self-explanatory.

The tasting was spread out over three rooms, and though it was well-attended, by various representatives of distributors, wine stores, restaurants, the media, and more, it generally didn't feel too crowded. There was a table of food, snacks to help cleanse your palate, and there was plenty of bottle of water too. The event seemed to run well and I encountered plenty of other attendees that I knew. There was a casual vibe, though plenty of work got done as well.

A few of my highlights of the tasting included a Tannat/Malbec blend from Oregon, a delicious Italian Rosé made from a blend of Barbera, Groppello, & Sangiovese, and an Italian wine made from a grape that only a single winery in the world is allowed to produce. In the next couple weeks, I'll be writing in detail about some of these highlights as well as some of the other wines I tasted, sharing the best of what I tasted.

To Be Continued...

2018: Top Wines Over $50 (Plus My Wine of The Year)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I've already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50). It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50. This isn't a Top Ten list as there aren't always sufficient wines at this price point that I've tasted and deemed worthy for inclusion. Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

I'm also going to note that this is the first year that I am announcing an overall Wine Of The Year! One wine simply stood out so much this year that I saw the need for such a declaration. And I will begin my list with that very wine...

1) Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry ($210)
It was a very easy decision to select this phenomenal and unique Sherry as my Wine Of The Year. First, it may be the oldest wine I've ever tasted. This Sherry is an average of 130-150 years old, and its solera was begin sometime from 1740-1750, before the U.S. was even a country. Second, you need to read my detailed review for more details about its history and production, as well as my full tasting notes. For me, this wine may be as close to perfect as any wine will ever be. Third, it certainly helped that I shared this bottle with some very close friends at a fantastic birthday celebration. Fourth, even at this price point, I think the wine is a bargain and if I ever see it again on a wine store shelf, I'll buy it without question. How often can you say that about a $200 wine? I cannot recommend this wine highly enough.

2) 2014 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($50.99)
This Italian wine is a blend of 80% Sangiovese, with the rest a blend of indigenous grapes including Abrusco, Pugnitello, Malvasia Nera, Ciliegiolo and Mazzese. This is a WOW wine, impressive and compelling. The aromas seduce your nose, giving evidence of the quality that you'll find within the wine. On the palate, it is silky smooth, with plenty of complexity, including ripe plum, black cherry, mild spice notes, hints of earthiness, and wisps of additional flavors that seem to flit in and out. Well-balanced, fine acidity, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It is the epitome of elegance, a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening, relishing each sip, finding new flavors within each taste.

3) Graham's 20 Year Old Tawny Port ($60-$65).
Port doesn't get enough attention, and when it does, Vintage Port seems to get the spotlight. However, there are plenty of other excellent Port types available, such as this one. This Port wine is actually about 24 years old, made from high quality wines, and is complex and intriguing, more dry than sweet, well-balanced and delicious. Caramel and salted nuts, dried fruit, a wisp of citrus and black cherry, hints of spice and good acidity. A Port to slowly savor over the course of an evening, chatting with good friends, paired with blue cheese or creme brulee. Each sip will bring something new to your palate, and you could get lost within your glass.

4) 2015 Bodegas Garzón Balasto ($120)
From Uruguay, the 2015 vintage was the first release of this wine, a blend of the best grapes of the vineyard, including 45% Tannat, 25% Cabernet France, 20% Petit Verdot, and 10% Marselan. The grapes were fermented in concrete tanks and then the wine spent about 20 months in untoasted, large French oak casks. This is a powerful, muscular wine with concentrated red and black fruit flavors, yet it still possesses a beautiful elegance. The tannins are restrained, helping to rein in its power. There are also subtle spice notes, nice acidity, a hint of earthiness and it possesses a lingering and pleasant finish. This is a wine built for aging, though it is still impressive now.

5) 2014 Kay Brothers Amery Vineyard Block 6 Shiraz ($119.99)
An Australian wine made from 100% Shiraz from a vineyard that was planted in 1892. 122 year old vines! This wine, with a 14.5% ABV, aged for at least 22 months in 1/3 new, 1/3 second, and 1/3 third use French and American oak puncheons. It possesses a rich, crimson color and an alluring nose of spice and black fruit. On the palate, the wine is elegant and silky smooth, with a complex melange of concentrated flavors of plum, black cherry and raspberry, with a strong spicy backbone, well integrated tannins, and pleasing acidity. It is well balanced with a long, lingering finish that completely satisfies. This is nowhere close to a jammy, fruit bomb but rather the type of high quality wine that seduces your senses.

6) 2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Griffin's Lair Syrah, Sonoma Coast ($50-$60)
A blend of 88% Syrah and 12% Viognier, this California wine possesses a dark, almost purplish colored wine, emitted an alluring nose of black fruits and spice, with subtle, almost fleeting aromas of other elements, such as herbal and floral notes. You can detect the complexity of this wine from the start, and that complexity is further elaborated on the palate. Full bodied and intense, it is lush and seductive, possessed of an intricate melange of flavors, including plum, black cherry, vanilla, dark spice, and an underlying earthiness. Such a long and lingering finish, each sip providing pleasure for minutes at the least. The tannins are well integrated, the silky feel of the wine caressing your palate. A hedonistic and complex wine that will please almost any wine lover.

This year, six countries and regions have a single spot on the list, including Spain, Italy, Portugal, Uruguay, Australia, and California. Of these six wines, they also consist of 2 Fortified Wines and 4 Red Wines. The Uruguayan wine may be the most surprising wine on the list as most people wouldn't expect such an amazing, high-end wine from this up and coming wine country. For myself, the biggest surprise may be the Australian wine, as I've tasted little from this country in several years after having had too many disappointing wines. It's time for me to sample more Australian wines.

Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.

If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

2018: Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stood out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local region, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2014 Domaine Albert Mann Extra Brut Crémant d'Alsace ($24)
This Crémant d'Alsace is a blend of Auxerrois, Pinot Blanc and Pinot Noir. With a fine golden color and a myriad of tiny bubbles, it possesses an alluring aroma, with elements of fresh fruit. On the palate, the Crémant is fresh, crisp and dry, with delicious flavors of green apple, pear and hints of lemon. Though it is fruit driven, there is complexity in the palate as well, with a touch of minerality and hints of spice. There is a light, elegant creaminess to this wine with a lengthy, pleasing finish, ending with more fruit notes. At this price point, it is also an excellent value.

2) 2014 Domaines Schlumberger "Les Princes Abbés" Pinot Noir ($25) Pinot Noir from Alsace is rare and that needs to change. This wine is produced from 100% Pinot Noir, from vines of an average age of 19 years. The wine is fermented in stainless steel and then aged on the lees for about 8 months in old wooden foudres. This is a wine of silky elegance, of bright, fresh red fruit flavors, a hint of spice, and a wisp of earthiness. Excellent acidity, some floral accents, soft tannins, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Such a well balanced and delicious wine, its elegance is so compelling and its complex melange of flavors pleases me immensely.

3) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Domaine les Chenevieres, Macon-Villages ($21.99)
This French wine is made from 100% Chardonnay, with vines that are over 20 years old, this wine has a 12.5% ABV and sees only stainless steel. It has an interesting and fresh taste, lots of crispness with flavors of green apple and citrus, with a backbone of minerality, and a lingering finish. This wine would go very well with goat cheese, as well as many types of seafood.

4) 2016 Georges Duboeuf Jean Ernest Descombes, Morgon ($21.99)
Another French wine, fro the Morgon Cru, this wine is made from 100% Gamay (vines from 50-100 years old), with a 13% ABV. It was vinified and aged in cement tanks. It possesses a captivating aroma, one that quickly lures you into the bottle. The red and black fruit flavors are intense, with crisp acidity, spice notes, and an earthy undertone. It is elegant and complex, intriguing and delicious.  Many of my favorite Beaujolais wines come from the Morgon Cru and this is an excellent example of what that Cru has to offer.

5) 2015 Darting Winery Pinot Meunier ($21.99)
This German wine is made from 100% Pinot Meunier, from the Pfalz region, and has a 13.5% ABV. It is rare to find single varietal Pinot Meunier. This wine has a light red color, with a touch of sediment, and a mild, pleasing aroma of red fruit and spice. It is a light-bodied wine, subtle and elegant in its presentation, with delicious flavors of cherry and cranberry, a mild spicy backbone and a hint of earthiness. Nice acidity, a lingering finish, and interesting. Overall, it is delicious and paired perfectly with a dinner of lamb lollipops.

6) Gonzalez Byass La Copa Vermouth ($25)
Vermouth is actually a wine, an aromatized wine, and many people seem to forget that fact, which is why you rarely see Vermouth on Top Ten Wine lists. They are worthy though of more recognition. The La Copa Vermouth is a blend of 75% Oloroso Sherry and 25% Pedro Ximinez Sherry. It is rare to find any Vermouth made from Sherry. Some of the botanicals that are used in this Vermouth include wormwood, angelica, savory, clove, orange peel, nutmeg, quinine, and cinnamon. On the nose, its complexity is first experienced, a wonderful melange of spices, salted nuts, and citrus notes. On the palate, you will be intrigued by its complexity, balance and elegance. There is a superb blend of spices and herbs, with nuts, caramel, a touch of plum, candied orange and more. The Sherry influence is prominent and well integrated. There is balanced sweetness with hints of bitterness, exactly what you want from a fine vermouth. It's smooth with a lengthy, satisfying finish and is wonderful on its own, though it also works well in a Manhattan.

7) 2015 Post Scriptum de Chryseia ($20-$25)
This Portuguese wine is impressive, a blend of 64% Touriga Franca, 28% Touriga Nacional and 8% Tinta Roriz, spending about 12 months in French oak. It has bright red fruit flavors, nice acidity, a spicy backbone and an elegant nature. Definitely very approachable, with good complexity, a lengthy finish and a wine that is very food friendly. Simply delicious.

8) 2015 Bodegas Garzón Cabernet France Reserve ($27)
Uruguay is producing some interesting and delicious wines, and this wine, made from Cabernet France, is an impressive example of their potential. With a rich purple color, the wine has alluring aromas, lots of ripe fruit and hints of spice. On the palate, there are delicious black and blue fruit flavors, enhanced by mild spice notes and a hint of herbal notes. There isn't a prominent flavor of green peppers, which delights me. The tannins are well integrated, the finish lingers, and there is a touch of mint on the finish too. This would be a great wine to pair with grilled meats or even a pizza.

9) 2015 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir ($36)
From California, this wine is made from 100% Pinot Noir, a blend of grapes from two estate vineyards, and it is aged for about 9 months in neutral French oak. With a 14.1% ABV, the wine has an appealing nose of red and black fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine is light bodied and silky, with a complex melange of flavors, from cherry to blackberry, cranberry to plum, with subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of smoke, especially on the lengthy finish. An elegant Pinot, this is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening.

10) 2015 Kocabağ Öküzgözü ($19.99)
This is the first wine from Turkey that I've ever reviewed and it won't be my last. Öküzgözü is an indigenous grape with high acidity and mild tannins, tending to make soft, easy drinking wines similar in some respects to Gamay or Pinot Noir. This wine possesses a medium-red color with an interesting nose of black cherry and raspberry, with a few spice notes. On the palate, it is light bodied, with plenty of acidity, and delicious ripe plum and black cherry flavors, enhanced by a mild earthiness and hints of spice. It has a very Old World feel to it, with mild tannins, a moderately lengthy finish, and is simply tasty.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, which almost made the Top Ten list, I have an Honorable Mention list. These are also wines you definitely should check out.

Honorable Mention

1) 2016 Alto do Joa Tinto ($15-$17)

This compelling Portuguese wine is a field blend of 20 grapes, including Alvarelhão, Bastardo, Chasselas Suíça, Cornifesto, Dona Branca, Folgasão, Formosa, Jaen, Mourisco, and Tinta Amarela. With a dark red color, and an alluring nose, I was captivated by this wine from my first taste. It is elegant and silky smooth, with well-integrated tannins, good acidity, and a touch of rusticness. Its complex melange of flavors includes ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, and a subtle earthiness. A long and lingering finish tantalizes and satisfies. It over delivers for the price and was pure pleasure on the palate.

2) 2009 Murganheira Touriga Nacional Bruto Blanc de Noirs Espumante ($20-$25)

Another Portuguese wine, this Sparking wine is made from 100% Touriga Nacional, which is certainly more unique. Almost a Rosé in color, and with tiny bubbles, there are mild red fruit notes on the aroma. As soon as I tasted a sip, bright berry flavors burst on my tongue, such a pleasurable taste and sensation. Dry and crisp, once I got past the berries, there were subtle notes of almond and plum, as well as a lingering finish. If I could have easily transported it home from Portugal, I would have bought a case of this bubbly.

3) Dow 2011 Late Bottled Vintage Port ($25-$30)

Portugal is taking dominance on this Honorable Mention list. This Port has an amazing taste and aroma, being more dry than sweet, with concentrated black fruit flavors, notes of dried fruit, spicy accents, and plenty of complexity. Well balanced, this is a powerful Port yet still restrained, more elegant than muscular. And you can easily enjoy it now without a need for further aging. Pure deliciousness at a very reasonable price.

4) Quinta Santa Eufemia 20 Year Old White Port ($25)

And one more Portuguese wine, a rare aged White Port, made from a blend of at least Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Moscatel Galego, and Rabigato. It is fermented in traditional lagares, granite treading tanks where the grapes are trod on by foot. It was aged for about 9 months in stainless steel and then for at least more 20 years in wooden casks. Sniffing your glass, you'll be seduced by an alluring blend of honey, floral and herbal scents, with wisps of citrus. On the palate, the complexity of the aromas is still evident, with each sip bringing something new to your mouth. There is a mild sweetness, well balanced by its acidity, with bright honey notes, citrus flavors, and touches of herbs. It is more full bodied and rich, with a long, lingering finish that soothes and satisfies. It is well worth the effort to seek it out, especially due to its complexity and superb taste.

5) Valdespino "Tio Diego" Amontillado ($25-$30)

This fascinating Sherry is produced from Palomino grapes all sourced from the Macharnudo Alto, making it a single-vineyard Sherry, which is rare in the Sherry industry. It is also one of the few Sherries that is still fermented in cask, in American oak, with nearly all other Sherries fermented in stainless steel. This Amontillado begins its life by spending from eight to twelve years under flor, like a Fino Sherry, and then spent another five to eight years without flor, aging oxidatively, averaging about 16-18 years in total. This Sherry has a compelling aroma, and the complex taste is nutty with rich caramel, vanilla and spice, as well as lots of acidity. It also possesses a long and pleasing finish. When I think of this Sherry, I think of it as delicious and comforting, fueling my belly and soul.

6) Gonzalez Byass Tio Pepe Fino En Rama ($27/750ml)

An En Rama Sherry is unfiltered or lightly filtered, which tends to produce a Sherry that is more intense and complex. With a 15% ABV, the Tio Pepe Fino En Rama has a bright golden color and is aromatic, with intriguing notes of toast and the briny nature of the sea. On the palate, it is fresh and dry, with a complex and intense melange of citrus, almonds, and the taste of the ocean. The finish has a tinge of bitterness, which doesn't detract from the taste, and lingers on your palate for quite a time. It is not as light and subtle as more heavily filtered Fino Sherries. I'm a big fan of this style and love the intense expressiveness of this Tio Pepe.

7) NV Willm Crémant d’Alsace Rosé ($18)

Made from 100% Pinot Noir, this Alsace bubbly is produced by the méthode champenoise and remains on the lees for about 12 months. With an appealing nose of red fruits and a touch of spice, this is a delicious and lush Crémant with ripe flavors of strawberry, cherry and raspberry. Dry, crisp, and clean, with a fine effervescence, this is a true crowd pleaser. At this price, it is an excellent value for the taste and complexity found within the bottle. 

8) 2014 San Felice Il Grigio Chianti Classico Riserva ($25)

This Italian wine is made from 100% Sangiovese, which spent about 24 months in oak, 20% in small barriques, and 1 year in the bottle. It is made in a more traditional style, which is my preference, and is quite good, with nice acidity, notes of cherry and black fruit, mild spice notes, and low tannins. It is delicious, but definitely does best when paired with food, especially meat or a hearty dish. To me, this is an example of a very good traditional Chianti Classico.

9) 2016 Bodegas Garzón Albariño Single Vineyard ($27)

From Uruguay, thus wine is made from 100% Albarino, selected from the best seven plots in the vineyard. About 80% of the grapes were fermented in large, concrete tanks (without epoxy) and the rest were fermented in untoasted oak barrels. The wine spent about 8 months on the lees. This is an impressive wine, elegant and complex, something meant to be slowly sipped and savored. It has a richer texture, great acidity, and more savory notes with only underlying and subtle fruit notes. The finish is long and satisfying, simply a stellar wine. 

10) 2015 Windvane Carneros Pinot Noir ($45)
This California Pinot Noir, from the Carneros region, possesses a medium red color and an enticing aroma of red fruit with mild, underlying spice notes. On the palate, the complex wine presents delicious and intense flavors of red cherry and blackberry, enhanced by mild spice notes and plenty of acidity. Medium-bodied, the finish is fairly lengthy and satisfying, ending with a silky crispness. Paired with Chinese sausages, the acidity of the wine helped to balance the sweetness of the sausages, and its flavors worked well with the spices and flavors of the sausage.

Summary

Eight wine countries and regions made the list this year, the same amount as last year. France dominates, occupying four spots, which include two wines from the Alsace region. The rest of the list is occupied by Germany, Spain, Portugal, Uruguay, Turkey and California. The list is also broken down into one Sparkling wine, one Aromatized wine, one White wine and seven Red wines.

On the Honorable Mention list, six countries made the list, compared to seven last year. Portugal dominates this list, with four spots, and Spain takes second place with two spots. The rest of the spots were taken by France (Alsace), Italy, Uruguay, and California. The list is also broken down into two Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, three Red wines, and one White wine. Last year, there weren't any Fortified wines on this list.

When you combine the two lists, France (with three from Alsace) and Portugal are tied for first place, each with five spots. In comparison, last year's leader of this combined list was the country of Georgia with four spots, while Portugal had two spots and France only one. This year, Spain occupied three spots while Uruguay and California both had two spots. Rounding out the combined list are Germany, Turkey and Italy, each with one spot. In addition, the combined list includes three Sparkling wines, four Fortified wines, one Aromatized wine, two White wines, and ten Red wines.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Wednesday, November 7, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods in Park Square will host a wine dinner with Sonoma-Cutrer Vineyards. Since 1973, Sonoma-Cutrer has been producing the finest quality wines. Its foundation is built in the hillsides and rocky foothills in the region recognized as the Sonoma Coast Appellation. In the 1970s, the company planted several different grape varieties and virtually overnight, Sonoma-Cutrer’s Chardonnay grapes had gained a reputation for exceptional quality and were in high demand by many premium wineries.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with head winemaker, Mick Schroeter, to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with his selections from the Sonoma-Cutrer vine. The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Pan-Seared Scallop Tart, Shaved Fennel, Lemon Butter
Oyster Pâté, Puff Pastry, Onion Jam
Shrimp Scampi Skewer
Sonoma-Cutrer “Grande Cuvée,” Russian River Valley, 2014
FIRST COURSE
Colossal Shrimp Scallopini (tomato burrata salad)
Sonoma-Cutrer Rosé of Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2017
SECOND COURSE
Halibut Imperial (wild mushroom ragout, cacio e pepe risotto)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Les Pierres Vineyard” Single Barrel Private Select Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 2016
Sonoma-Cutrer “Les Pierres Vineyard” Chardonnay, Sonoma Coast, 1998
THIRD COURSE
Cedar Plank Salmon (pancetta, baby Brussels sprouts, Peruvian purple potatoes)
Sonoma-Cutrer Pinot Noir, Russian River Valley, 2015
DESSERT COURSE
Bananas Foster (vanilla ice cream, rum caramel sauce)
Sonoma-Cutrer “Late Harvest” Chardonnay, Russian River Valley, 2015

COST: $110 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

2) On Wednesday, October 24, at 7pm, guests are invited to Meritage Restaurant + Wine Bar to celebrate the beginning of White Truffle season with a one-of-a-kind Truffle Dinner presented by Chef Daniel Bruce. Chef Bruce, acclaimed chef and founder of the Boston Wine Festival, is an experienced forager and truffle expert and presents a special menu featuring the freshest flavors of the season.

The full menu for the Truffle Dinner is as follows:

AMUSE
“Black Tie” Diver Scallop, Truffle White Foam
2012 Negro Lorenzo Roero Arnies Spumante
PASTA OUVO
Shaved White Alba Truffle, Spinach Paint
2015 Domaine Dublère 2015 Diego Conterno Langhe Bianca Nascetta
WHITE TRUFFLE & AGED PARMESAN CHEESE RISOTTO MANTECATO
Shaved Duck Prosciutto
2017 Francesco Brigatti Vespolina
PAN ROASTED VEAL TENDERLOIN MIGNON
Fricassee of Wild Mushrooms, Black and White Truffles, Sugar Pumpkin, Petit Rabe Cipollini Onion Confit
2014 G. D. Vajra Albe Barolo
2011 Bartolo Mascarello Barolo
OLIVE OIL CAKE
Black Truffle Crémeux, Honey Ice Cream, Citrus Marmalade, Puffed Rice
Marchesi de Gresy La Serra Moscato d’Asti

Tickets to the White Truffle Dinner are $250.00 per person (inclusive of tax and Gratuity) and are available for purchase on Eventbrite.
This dinner is 21+

3) You may not get a chance to dine at Noma in Copenhagen (named Best Restaurant 4 times and one of the hardest reservations in the world to get), but you can hear chef David Zilber, Director of Noma’s Fermentation Lab, talk about some of the magic behind the famed restaurant and their new book, The Noma Guide to Fermentation. He will be in Boston on Friday, October 26th, at 12:30pm, doing an event with Porter Square Books at First Parish Church in Cambridge

At Noma—four times named the world’s best restaurant—every dish includes some form of fermentation, whether it’s a bright hit of vinegar, a deeply savory miso, an electrifying drop of garum, or the sweet intensity of black garlic. Fermentation is one of the foundations behind Noma’s extraordinary flavor profiles. David Zilber is the chef who runs the restaurant’s acclaimed fermentation lab, and in this new book he has co-authored with René Redzepi, chef and co-owner of Noma, they share never-before-revealed techniques to creating Noma’s extensive pantry of ferments. And they do so with a book conceived specifically to share their knowledge and techniques with home cooks. With more than 500 step-by-step photographs and illustrations, and with every recipe approachably written and meticulously tested, The Noma Guide to Fermentation takes readers far beyond the typical kimchi and sauerkraut to include koji, kombuchas, shoyus, misos, lacto-ferments, vinegars, garums, and black fruits and vegetables. And—perhaps even more important—it shows how to use these game-changing pantry ingredients in more than 100 original recipes.

You can purchase tickets here, and tickets include a copy of the book.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Abe & Louie’s celebrates its twenty year anniversary with a sweet gesture for some of the area’s charitable organizations. Starting October 1st, the restaurant will feature a deliciously designed signature dessert that gives back to a different non-profit each month as part of their "20th Anniversary Community Give Back” program.

The specialty desserts are $12 each, with 20% of the proceeds being donated to the corresponding charity and matched by Tavistock Restaurant Collection– the parent company that owns Abe & Louie’s, as well as other restaurants in Massachusetts and throughout the country.

The campaign kicks off October 1st with a special red velvet cake topped with cream cheese icing and pumpkin Oreo ice cream to benefit the Leukemia & Lymphoma Society®(LLS) a dessert inspired by Acute Myeloid Leukemia (AML) survivor Mary Shertenlieb, whose inspiring story and efforts in the fight against cancer have touched hearts of the Boston community and beyond. Funds raised throughout October from the sale of the red velvet cake will support Light The Night®. Mary’s team of family & friends, ‘March with Mary’, have participated in the walk since 2013, raising more than $130,000. This October 17th, they will once again gather on the Boston Common with more than 5,000 participants to lift their lanterns and raise funds for research and support for patients and families. To find a walk in your area or support their efforts, visit LightTheNight.org.

In the three months following October, specialty desserts will be designed for the Ellie Fund in November, the Last Call Foundation in December, and the Pedro Martinez Foundation in January.

Guests can order the specialty desserts at any time during the operating hours.

2) Puritan & Company of Inman Square announces a very special upcoming winemaker dinner with Schramsberg Vineyards of Napa Valley. Join winemaker Hugh Davies on Tuesday, October 16th, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, for the opportunity of tasting exquisite sparkling wines followed by a four course lamb dinner prepared by chef/owner Will Gilson.

In 1965, Jack and Jamie Davies established Schramsberg as a sparkling wine estate on the property originally founded in 1862 by German immigrant Jacob Schram. At a time when there were only 22 bonded wineries in Napa Valley and fewer than 100 acres of California vineyards planted to Chardonnay and Pinot Noir, they set out to make world-class sparkling wine in the true méthode traditionelle style. Theirs was the first California winery to provide a Blanc de Blancs in 1965 followed by a Blanc de Noirs in 1967. Now their son Hugh Davies, who was born the same year the Davies arrived at Schramsberg, leads the winery’s management and winemaking team. This is an extraordinary opportunity to taste what are arguably the best sparkling wines made in America

The Menu includes:
Arrival
2014 Blanc de Blancs North Coast, California
sourdough waffle (caviar and crème fraîche)
First Course
2014 Blanc de Noirs North Coast, California
2015 Brut Rosé North Coast, California
seared and chilled scallop salad (pear purée, sea beans, brown butter bread crumbs)
Second Course
2016 Davies Vineyards Pinot Noir “Nobles Vineyard” Fort Ross-Seaview, Sonoma County
charcoal-grilled duck (lentils, potato purée, onions, cranberry jus)
Main Course
2015 J. Davies Cabernet Sauvignon Diamond Mountain, Napa Valley
smoked rack of lamb (mint salsa verde, heirloom carrots, roasted parsnip)
Dessert
2009 J. Schram Brut North Coast
aged goat cheese (figs, pistachios, toasted brioche)

The $145 tickets are inclusive of dinner, wine, and gratuity and are available at EventBrite. Please email rebecca@puritancambridge.com if you have any allergy or dietary restrictions that chef should be aware of.

3) If you love spicy cocktails and tequila is your poison, meet Sumiao Hunan Kitchen’s The Devil’s Nest, an October cocktail special created by the Kendall Square restaurant’s bar team just in time for Halloween. "The Devil’s Nest might sound evil but the flavors are angelic, featuring sweet ingredients like passion fruit puree, lime juice and a dash of grenadine. Staying true to its name, it also packs some fiery flavors with muddled jalapenos that are shaken with tequila. Chile “horns” as a garnish brings it to life."

WHEN: Available during normal operating hours throughout the month of October.
COST: $10 per cocktail

2013 Bedrock Griffin's Lair Syrah: Bold Like Fred Flintsone

"Yabba dabba doo!"
--Fred Flintsone

Though I doubt the name of Bedrock Wine Co. was inspired by The Flintstones cartoon show, which took place in the fictional town of Bedrock, Fred Flintstone's catch phrase above, which signaled his excitement and happiness, echoes my own thoughts about Bedrock's Griffin's Lair Syrah.

I was fortunate to receive a bottle of the 2013 Bedrock Wine Co. Griffin's Lair Syrah, Sonoma Coast ($50-$60) as a birthday gift from my good friend, Andrew Witter. Bedrock Wine Co. was founded in 2007 by Morgan Twain-Peterson in a converted chicken coop and six years later, he was joined by his friend, Chris Cottrell, and they have since expanded their facilities. They have multiple passions, including the preservation of old vineyards, especially those over one hundred years old. They also want to showcase and promote Syrah, a grape which has been frequently under-appreciated, an even maligned, in the U.S. In addition, they like to showcase different wine styles, from all across California, to show the myriad possibilities. They tend to prefer making wines simply, with little manipulation although understanding that all wine-making is a form of manipulation.

The Griffin's Lair vineyard, owned by Joan and Jim Griffin, has provided fruit for the famed Pax Mahle Winery, and eventually, Bedrock was able to purchase some of their grapes for their own wines. The 2013 Bedrock Griffin's Lair Syrah is a blend of 88% Syrah and 12% Viognier, which are co-fermented, with about 50% whole clusters for "perfume, finesse, and general awesomeness." From  the Bedrock website, it states, "I adore the 2013 in all of its exotically feral, Syrah wonderfulness—I think it might be the most complete wine we have made from the vineyard."

The dark, almost purplish colored wine, emitted an alluring nose of black fruits and spice, with subtle, almost fleeting aromas of other elements, such as herbal and floral notes. You can detect the complexity of this wine from the start, and that complexity is further elaborated on the palate. Full bodied and intense, it is lush and seductive, possessed of an intricate melange of flavors, including plum, black cherry, vanilla, dark spice, and an underlying earthiness. Such a long and lingering finish, each sip providing pleasure for minutes at the least. The tannins are well integrated, the silky feel of the wine caressing your palate. A hedonistic and complex wine that will please almost any wine lover.

This is a wine for hearty dishes, a thick steak, a rich stew, a Bolognese, wild boar and more. It could also be slowly sipped on its own, especially during the cold months, maybe in front of a fireplace. It is a wine too that would bring people together, savoring the mutual pleasures of sharing this wine. I owe much gratitude for Andrew for gifting me this wine, introducing me to its wonders. It is well worth a splurge and receives my highest recommendation.

Scheid Vineyards: From Tax Shelter To Passion

The origins of Scheid Vineyards, in Monterey County, extend back to 1972 and at that time, Al Scheid probably never imagined what his business would become. Starting as a tax shelter, the business would eventually evolve into a passion for the Scheid family, producing some delicious and interesting wines.

Initially, the business, created as a tax shelter, was called the Monterey Farming Corporation and they purchased land to plant vineyards, selling the grapes to various producers. This continued for about fifteen years, when Al brought his eldest son, Scott, on board and then, in 1988, they hired Kurt Gollnick, viticulturist, as General Manager of Vineyard Operations. They initiated some improvements to their vineyards and in the early 1990s, Al brought his daughter, Heidi, into the business.

At some point, it seems a passion for winemaking took hold. The Scheids bought out all their business partners, redeveloped their vineyards, bought additional vineyards, and began their own label. Currently, they own eleven estate vineyards, located along a 70-mile span of the Salinas Valley, that grow 39 varietals and 20 clones of Pinot Noir. They operate two wineries, including a large one which produces custom-made wines for other companies, the greatest part of their business. Their smaller winery is used to produce wines for their own label. Scheid Vineyards are also committed to sustainability on several levels, including environmentally sound practices, social equity, and economic viability. All of their vineyards are certified by the California Sustainable Winegrowing Alliance.

Scheid Vineyards has been increasing its emphasis on selling their own wine, and in 2017, their case sales increased about 5% to $12.7 Million, compared to $12.1 Million in 2016. I received some media samples of three of their wines, all low production, and really enjoyed their taste and diversity. All three are great choices for the summer, especially paired with food.

The 2016 Scheid Vineyards Albarino ($22) is made from 100% Albarino, from the Arroyo Seco appellation of Monterey, of which they only grow about a half-acre. Only 220 cases of this wine is produced, and the wine is fermented and aged only in stainless steel. With a 13.7% ABV, this wine has a fine golden color, a nose of bright citrus, and an interesting taste of apple, lemon, and grapefruit with a backbone of minerality. It was dry and crisp, with a pleasing, long finish. There is a freshness to this wine, and it would be enjoyable on its own or paired with seafood, from oysters to lobster.

The 2016 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir Rosé ($19) is made from 100% Pinot Noir that was sourced from the Mesa del Rio vineyard. The wine was macerated on the skins for 12 hours and later aged in stainless steel for about eight months, with only 140 cases produced. With a 13.5% ABV, this wine had an alluring aroma of fresh strawberries, and on the palate was dry and crips, with juicy red fruit flavors as well as a touch of cranberry. Refreshing and delicious, this Rosé was complex and interesting, and another wine which is enjoyable on its own, though it would also pair well with a variety of foods, from seafood to burgers.

The 2015 Scheid Vineyards Pinot Noir ($36) is made from 100% Pinot Noir, a blend of grapes from two estate vineyards, 71% Vineto and 29% Riverview. The wine is aged for about 9 months in neutral French oak and only 106 cases are produced. With a 14.1% ABV, the wine had an appealing nose of red and black fruits with a hint of spice. On the palate, the wine was light bodied and silky, with a complex melange of flavors, from cherry to blackberry, cranberry to plum, with subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and a hint of smoke, especially on the lengthy finish. An elegant Pinot, this is a wine to slowly savor over the course of an evening. Highly recommended.

2015 Chateau Montelena Calistoga Zinfandel & What is Tribidrag?

"The varieties most prized for wine are the Zinfandel, Riesling, Chasselas, Burger and black Malvasia."
--Daily Alta California, July 9, 1878 (referring to Napa)

Have you ever tasted a wine made from the Crljenak Kaštelanski or Tribidrag grape? You probably have, though didn't know it, because you're aware of the grape by a different name, Zinfandel.

The historical origins of Zinfandel had been a mystery for some time, with plenty of speculation and study efforts. Finally, DNA research, through an endeavor by Dr. Carole Meredith, a professor and geneticist at the University of California at Davis, and her team determined that Zinfandel is actually a Croatian grape, known as Crljenak Kaštelanski, Tribidrag and Pribidrag. The oldest known name for this grape is Tribidrag, extending back to the early 16th century, so that is the primary name of which it is now known. This term has roots in a Greek word which means "early ripening."

Within California, Zinfandel has long been a popular grape, as can be seen in the newspaper reference, from 1878, I earlier quoted. During the late 19th century, Zinfandel was one of the kings of the California vineyards, and there are thousands of references to it in newspapers of that period. Though nowadays, Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay have garnered much of the attention, Zinfandel remains an important grape in California.

I recently received a media sample of the 2015 Chateau Montelena Calistoga Zinfandel ($39), the famed winery which put California wine on the international map with its success at the Judgment of Paris in 1976. The 2015 vintage was tough, the end of a four year drought in California, one of the driest in history. However, Zinfandel is tough, a survivor, and thrives on drought conditions. During 2015, the drought in the spring caused vine stress, and then the hot summer led to an increased density and ripeness of the grapes. There were low yields but the grapes were impressive, leading to an impressive wine.

The wine is made from 100% Zinfandel, a blend of old and new vines, with the oldest having been planted in 1972 when Jim Barrett founded Chateau Montelena. The wine spent about 16 months in French, Irish and American oak, 15% new, and has a 14.5% ABV. This is one of the first wines I've seen using Irish oak. The wine has a dark red color, though still partially translucent, with an intriguing aroma of spice and black fruit, an alluring blend that will tantalize your nose. On the palate, the spice notes are initially predominant, merging into flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, vanilla, and a certain meatiness, with a smoky edge. The lingering finish presents some chocolate notes along with more spice. The wine is well balanced, complex, and absolutely delicious, especially paired with some dry aged steak tips.

Though this is a big wine, it isn't overly so, and the alcohol level is lower than a number of other Zinfandels which seem to be pushing 16%. I especially liked the meaty element to this wine, its more savage nature, which I haven't found in many other California wines. This wine earns a hearty recommendation, and is well worth its price point.

"The better the claret the less alcohol it contains, and our wine-makers have already reached, in the Zinfandel, a brand which is certainly as light and non-alcoholic as the best light brands of Bordeaux. If all the people of California drank Zinfandel, the temperance problem would be practically solved,..."
--Sacramento Daily Record-Union, July 15, 1882

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Chefs Ken Oringer and Jamie Bissonnette announce the debut of JK Food Group Crawl, a tapas tour of their Boston restaurants Toro, Coppa and Little Donkey designed to enjoy throughout one evening. For groups of 4-6, the experience includes a selection of small plates, drinks, tax and transportation between restaurants (gratuity not included), available on Sunday – Thursday.

At Toro, their Barcelona-inspired tapas bar, guests can begin with a creative take on both modern and traditional tapas using market fresh ingredients, kicking off the evening with a festive porron of Cava or glass of Sangria alongside favorites like the Datiles con Jamon, Pan con Tomate, Pimentos del Padron and more. From there, it’s off to Coppa, their Italian enoteca located at a cozy corner of the South End, where a selection of house specialties can be paired alongside a glass of wine, such as Wood-oven Roasted Meatballs, Cavatelli con Pollo or the savory Salsiccia Pizza.

For a sweet finish, crawlers will end at Little Donkey, Oringer and Bissonnette’s global small plates restaurant in Cambridge’s Central Square, with a menu inspired by their world travels. Tuck into the beloved Chocolate Chip Cookie Dough with milk espuma, playfully served on the beater, Ice Cream Churro Sandwich and more, alongside a drink of choice, from dessert wine to Little Donkey’s signature rotating drink: The One in the Grapefruit. Guests can also opt for a savory third course, with bites like Duck Nachos and BLT Lettuce Wraps.

“We wanted to offer our guests, both fans and newcomers, a taste of some of our favorites. Consider this our ultimate night on the town in Boston,” – Ken Oringer

“Our food is designed to be shared between couples, families and friends. The JK Food Group crawl embodies this experience. Leave the transportation and logistics up to us and we’ll leave the eating and drinking to you!” – Jamie Bissonnette

Starting March 4, reservations will be accepted through www.jkfoodgroup.com. Pricing options include $165 per person for drinks + two food courses plus dessert; or $175 per person for drinks + three full food courses. Credit card(s) are required to hold all reservations. Groups can cancel up to a week in advance with no charge. Cancellations within a week of the reservation will be charged $50 per person.

2) CHOPPS American Bar and Grill and Executive Chef Stefano Zimei invite guests to indulge in some of the West Coast’s best vineyard offerings with a special California Wine Dinner on Friday, March 16, at 6:30pm, featuring wines from Domaine Chandon, Duckhorn, Silver Oak Winery, Faust, and Foley Vineyards.

Reception
Passed Hors d’Oeuvre
NV DOMAINE CHANDON 'BRUT CLASSIC', NAPA, CALIFORNIA
First course
Baked Oysters (Spinach, Parmesan Cream, Herb Breadcrumbs)
2015 CHARDONNAY DUCKHORN 'DECOY', SONOMA, CALIFORNIA
Entree
Peppercorn Crusted New York Strip (River Rock Farms, Baby Beets, Potato Pave, Shallot Brandy)
2014 CABERNET SAUVIGNON SILVER OAK, ALEXANDER VALLEY, CALIFORNIA
vs
2014 CABERNET SAUVIGNON FAUST, NAPA, CALIFORNIA
Desserts
Layered Crepe Cake (Mascarpone, Marena Cherries)
2013 ROBERT FOLEY VINEYARD ‘TOURIGA NACIONAL’, NAPA, CALIFORNIA

Seats are available now for $95 per person (inclusive of tax & gratuity).
Space is limited and reservations are required. Call 781-221-6643 directly to book seats. A credit card is needed to secure a reservation.

3) Thirteen million children across the country struggle with hunger, putting us at risk of losing an entire generation of leaders, innovators, and problem-solvers. For more than 20 years, Chef/Owner Andy Husbands has worked closely with No Kid Hungry, the national campaign run by Share our Strength, to end childhood hunger through his Cooking Matters Dinner and a variety of other events.

On Monday, March 12th, starting at 6pm, Andy Husbands and the team at Tremont 647 will host the 21st Cooking Matters Dinner to benefit No Kid Hungry with a cocktail reception at 6:00PM followed by a multi-course dinner with wine pairings served family style at 7:00PM and prepared by some of Boston’s most renowned chefs, including Tony Maws, Chris Coombs, Jeremy Sewell, Jason Santos, Tim Maslow and Joanne Chang.

100% of proceeds from ticket sales will benefit No Kid Hungry’s work to end childhood hunger in Massachusetts.

Ticket packages include:
$175 individual ticket
$1,000 Summer Meals Supporter (4 tickets, recognition on website)
$2,500 Afterschool Meals Friend (table for 6, recognition, email invitation)
$5,000 School Breakfast Champion (table for 10, recognition, email invitation, remarks as a member of Host Committee)
For tickets, please visit www.events.nokidhungry.org/events/tremont-647-cooking-matters-dinner.

4) Assaggio restaurant invites guests for a Fantasy Fine Wine Dinner in Boston's historic North End. On Wednesday, March 7, from 7pm-11pm, the newest restaurant to join Depasquale Ventures, Assaggio will be hosting a Fine Wine Dinner highlighting fantasy fine wines and a five course serving of their Positano cuisine from Italy's Amalfi Coast. Reservations are $65 per person and can be made by phone at (617).227.7380.

Assaggio's Fine Wine Dinner presents:
Bruschetta (Eggplant Caponata with Whipped Burrata)
2016 Prestige Rose Sparkling Aglianico – Compania, Italy
Shrimp Scampi (Jumbo Shrimp Sauteed with Garlic Olive Oil and Grechetto)
2015 Grechetto Azienda Vitivinicola Chiorro – Umbria, Italy
Revello (Caprese Ravioli, Soft Ricotta Pillows, Marjoram, Tomato & Basil)
2011 Montepulciano Riserva "Trinita" Cordona – Abruzzo Italy
Griglia Mista (Filet, Short Rib, Lamb Chop, Seasonal Vegetables, Aglianico Demi)
2011 Aglianico Kapinos Masseria Frattasi – Campania Italy
Delizia Limone (Citrus Cake, Lemon Glaz, Fresh Lemon Cream)
2014 Passito Masseria Frattasi – Campania Italy

Reservations are $65 per person and can be made by phone at (617).227.7380.

5) On Thursday, March 15, from 5pm-10pm, Viale, in Cambridge, will host a Roots, Rum & Reggae party, celebrating with a Caribbean inspired menu, Tropical Cocktails, and Island Music. They are partnering with Privateer Rum, who will provide all the rum for the cocktails. The music will be provided by Murf Reeves Music.

To make reservations, or for more information, please call Viale at 617-576-1900.

6) It’s traditional to celebrate special events with roses, so Chef Michael Serpa of Select Oyster Bar in Boston's Back Bay has decided to celebrate the restaurant’s third anniversary not with flowers—but rosé wines. Join Serpa and cooking colleagues from Myers + Chang, SRV, haley.henry, and pop up sensation, East Boston Oysters, for an evening of rosé  and rosé friendly dishes at Select Oyster Bar on Tuesday, April 3rd, at 6:00 p.m., to celebrate Select Oyster Bar's third anniversary.

Tickets start at $100 per person and seating is limited.

A portion of the proceeds will benefit No Kid Hungry through Chefs Cycle bike-a-thons this May in Santa Rosa, CA and in September in Charlottesville, VA, where Chef Serpa and other notable Boston-area chefs will be participating.

Visit SelectOyster.com for reservations and more details.

2015 Windvane Pinot Noir: A Carneros Charmer

Straddling the Sonoma and Napa wine regions, the Carneros AVA is well known as a cooler climate, an excellent area for growing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. I've long enjoyed Pinot Noirs from the Carneros region, some of my favorite Pinots of California. Thus, I was curious when I learned of a new brand from this area, Windvane, producing Pinot Noir and Chardonnay.

Windvane, part of Freixenet USA, is largely the creation of winemaker Steven Urberg, who is also the winemaker for Gloria Ferrer Caves & Vineyards (also located in the Carneros AVA). Urberg's vision for Windvane was inspired by his interest in the windiest sections of the vineyards, believing that wind greatly influenced the character of the grapes. He believes that "...the stress from intense gusts coupled with the steepest, rockiest and thinnest soils, allow for slower ripening, intense flavor development and high levels of acidity in the grapes."

I received a media sample of the 2015 Windvane Carneros Pinot Noir ($45), which is produced from 100% estate Pinot Noir from a variety of the windiest blocks in the westernmost section of their 335-acre estate. The 2015 vintage was challenging due to the weather conditions, leading to the harvest of only a small crop, but the grapes possessed "excellent concentration and intense character." Thus, only 1,300 cases of this wine were produced. The Pinot Noir was harvested at night to preserve their freshness an only free run juice was used for the wine. The wine was then aged for about nine months in French oak (46% new).

I opened the bottle to accompany a dinner of Chinese sausages (bought from J. Pace & Son in Saugus.) With a 14.5% ABV, the wine possesses a medium red color and an enticing aroma of red fruit with mild, underlying spice notes. On the palate, the complex wine presented delicious and intense flavors of red cherry and blackberry, enhanced by mild spice notes and plenty of acidity. Medium-bodied, the finish was fairly lengthy and satisfying, ending with a silky crispness. The acidity of the wine helped to balance the sweetness of the sausages, and its flavors worked well with the spices and flavors of the sausage.  

This Pinot Noir would have been excellent on its own too, though it would be a great accompaniment with many different dishes. It is an impressive wine, worth the splurge, and earns my recommendation.

2017: Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last week, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws. Please also note that this is technically a Top 12 list as three Sherries are tied at one spot.

1) Julien Brand La Bulle De L'Oueste Petillant Brut ($20.00)
A Sparkling Muscadet? This was my first such wine and it won't be the last. Made from 100% Melon de Bourgogne grape, this French wine is certified organic and was fermented by the Methode Ancestrale, also known as Pétillant-Naturel. It has a low 9.8% ABV, meaning you can have an extra glass without worrying much about getting too tipsy. As I raised the flute to my nose, visually delighted by the tiny bubbles, I was entranced with this wine, loving its appealing and intense aromas, such beautiful fruit with a wisp of the ocean. On the palate, there was lots of crisp acidity, delicious citrus notes, and a steely minerality with an herbal hint. It was fresh and tasty, each sip making you crave more. Highly recommended!

2) 2016 Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce ($18.99)
This Italian Sparkling Lambrusco was produced from 100% Salamino di Santa Croce, from 40+ year old organic vines. The wine was a deep, almost purple color, with an alluring aroma of berries, violets, mild spices, and a hint of earthiness. On the palate, it has a creamy effervescence, with enticing, dry and juicy flavors of black cherry, raspberry, and ripe plum, with an underlying earthiness and mild spice notes. The tannins are well-integrated, the acidity is strong, and the finish is lengthy and pleasing. It was easy drinking but with plenty of complexity, the type of addictive wine which you'll likely finish the entire bottle before you know it.

3) 2011 Artevani Qvevri Aged Rkatsiteli ($30-$35)
One of the top three wines I enjoyed at the Boston Wine Expo, this Georgian wine is impressive on many levels. Artevani is a family-owned winery, seeking to produce more natural wines, reflective of terroir, and combining ancient traditions with modern technology. This wine is made from 100% Rkatsiteli, from seventy-year old vines, and is fermented in qvevri for about 24 days and then aged in qvevri for another 8-12 months. With a rich amber color, the wine presented with a fascinating aroma, an alluring mix of herbs, spices, and dried fruits. On the palate, I found a complex and intriguing melange of flavors and it was actually difficult to describe everything happening in my mouth. It was full bodied, with nice acidity, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This is the type of wine you slowly savor, enjoying the new and surprising flavors you encounter with each sip.

4) 2016 Valdespino Ojo de Gallo Palomino Fino ($15.99)
This Spanish wine is made from 100% Palomino Fino, the grape usually used to produce Sherry, but the producer chose to make an unfortified version. The organically cultivated grapes are 20-25 years old. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, and then it is aged for about 6 months on the fine lees. With a 12% ABV, it has a nice golden color and the nose reminded me immediately of a Fino Sherry. On the palate, it also was reminiscent of Fino Sherry with a bright salinity, citrus flavors, a strong minerality backbone and savory notes. It was crisp and very dry, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. It was fresh, elegant and complex, an intriguing wine that certainly shows the potential for Palomino Fino in unfortified, still wines.

5) 2014 Clos de Gilroy “Cuvée Particuliere" ($19.99)

Bonny Doon Vineyard, based in Santa Cruz, California, produces a fascinating range of intriguing and delicious wines. Another of my top three wines from the Boston Wine Expo was their 2014 Clos de Gilroy “Cuvée Particuliere", which is produced mainly from Grenache with a little bit of Mourvedre. It was more of an Old-World style wine, with bright red fruit flavors, some peppery notes and a mild earthiness. It was complex and intriguing, an elegant and delicious wine that calls out for lamb or wild boar, or a hearty Italian ragu. The wine easily seduced my palate and it was hard to refrain from draining the bottle on my own.

6) 2015 Metrick Mourvèdre ($31)
Alex Russan, with his Alexander Jules Sherries, has been on these prior lists multiple times and this year he earns a spot for his non-Sherry wines. His Metrick Wines explore the different wine regions of California and the 2015 Metrick Mourvèdre is a blend of 85% Mourvedre, 5% Marsanne, 5% Counoise, and 5% Syrah. The wine was fermented in 50% stainless steel and 50% concrete. 95% of the juice was free run, and it was then aged for about 11 months in concrete. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered, and has a 12% ABV. This wine was thoroughly impressive, a light bodied and savory elixir. A complex blend of herbs, olives and earthiness dominated the taste, with subtle hints of berry. It was so ethereal on the palate, with a compelling taste, including a lingering finish, which made me crave a second and third glass. I would pair this with an herbed, roast chicken or a mushroom risotto, or maybe a venison steak.

7) 2015 Alapiani Shavkapito ($25)
Another Georgian wine, I was thoroughly impressed with this wine produced from the indigenous Shavkapito grape which is even in Georgia. Its name means "vine with a black cane" and is said to be terroir-reflective. The grapes were sourced from a vineyard in the Okami village of the Shida Kartli region and the wine was fermented and aged in qvevri. With an alluring aroma of black fruit and herbs, the wine presented with a fascinating melange of flavors, including ripe plum, blackberry and black cherry, along with herbal accents, a smoky note, and a touch of spice. Lots of complexity, smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish.

8) 2016 1865 Pinot Noir ($18)
Finding excellent Pinot Noir for under $20 is difficult so I was extremely taken with this Chilean wine. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, from the El Platero Vineyard in the Valle Del Elqui, the wine was aged for about eight months in a combination of foudres, concrete eggs and barrels. With a 13.5% ABV, the wine has a light red color, and an alluring and complex nose of red fruits and touches of earth and spice. Those aromas will draw you in and you won't be disappointed once you taste it. The wine is elegant and light bodied, with a complex and fascinating melange of flavors, including bright red cherry, more subdued black cherry, subtle spice notes, and underlying hints of earthiness. There was excellent acidity, mineral notes, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was well-balanced and compelling, reminding me in different ways to Burgundian Pinot as well as Oregonian Pinot, yet still with its own unique character.

9) 2013 Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton ($47)
I love Greek wines and this is a killer wine, compelling and delicious. It is a blend of three indigenous Greek grapes, including 50% Limnio, 25% Mavrotragano & 20% Mavroudi. This wine is fermented and aged in French oak, has a 14% ABV, and has an inky dark red color, with an alluring aroma of black fruit, mild spice, and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, the wine is muscular and big, though it is still elegant and the tannins are well restrained. There are complex & rich flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, and blackberry, enhanced by a spicy backbone, good acidity, and a hint of herbs. It is delicious and well-balanced, with a lengthy, pleasing finish. It would be great paired with hearty dishes, from a grilled steak to a leg of lamb.

10) 2016 Rară Neagră de Purcari ($22-$23)
Another tasty wine from Moldova, this Rară Neagră de Purcari was impressive, luring me in from my first sniff of its compelling aroma. The wine is made from 100% Rară Neagră, was fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak barriques and has a 14% ABV. The aroma is very savory, with black fruit accents and subtle spicy notes. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with soft tannins and good acidity. It presents an intriguing melange of bold flavors, ripe black fruit, spicy notes, hints of vanilla, and an almost meaty undertone. A lengthy finish completes this well balanced and delicious wine.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, which almost made the Top Ten list, I have an Honorable Mention list. These are also wines you definitely should check out.

Honorable Mention

1) 2015 Metrick Chardonnay ($36)
This Metrick Chardonnay is made with grapes from the Sierra Madre Vineyard, planted in 1971 and sustainably farmed, in the Santa Maria AVA. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees, in stainless, for about 11 months. It underwent malolactic fermentation, allowing it to be bottled unfiltered, and has a 12% ABV. I found this wine to be crisp and clean, with bright citrus notes and some minerality. There was some richness in the mouthfeel and it came across as elegant and delicious. I paired this wine with some stuffed clams and it was an excellent pairing. It was obvious that this Chardonnay would be perfect with seafood, from sushi to oysters.

2) 2015 Batono Qvevruli Tetri ($20)
This Georgian wine is an intriguing blend of three indigenous grapes, 40% Kisi, 40% Mtsvane and 20% Rkatsiteli. It was produced in both qvevri and oak, and was a fascinating and delicious wine with a unique melange of spice, dried fruit, herbal accents and a touch of eucalyptus. Each sip brought a new flavor combination to my palate and this is a very good value wine to savor and enjoy over time. This wine would work well with seafood dishes and roast chicken.

3) 2016 Alpha Estate Rosé ($19.99)
You should enjoy Rosé year-round and this Greek Rosé should please you. Made from 100% Xinomavro, it spent two months on the lees and has a 13% ABV. With a bright pink color, this wine has a delightful fruity nose and on the palate, it is crisp, dry and fruity, with tasty flavors of strawberry and cherry and subtle floral notes. It has a medium-body, with a lengthy, satisfying finish.  This would certainly be a food-versatile wine, from oysters to burgers, roasted chicken to pizza. Though sipping it on its own, while relaxing poolside, would be quite the pleasure as well.

4) 2013 Adega de Borba Reserve ($18-$19)
Another excellent value Portuguese wine, this is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Castelão and Alicante Bouschet. The wine spent about 12 months in French oak, and then another 6 months in the bottle. This is a delicious, complex wine and though it is also powerful in some respects, that power is restrained within a velvet glove, presenting a silky smooth taste. There are lush black fruit flavors, plenty of intriguing spice notes, and some exotic herbal accents. This is another wine which would benefit from pairing with meat dishes.

5) 2013 Vallegre Vinhas Velhas Reserva Especial (about $21)
Another tasty Portuguese wine, this is an intriguing blend of Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão and Tinta Francisca, from 60+ year old vines. It presents as deep and dark, complex and smooth, spicy and tannic. Concentrated flavors of Rich ripe plum and flavors, with hints of chocolate and leather. A well-balanced wine with plenty of acidity and a lengthy, satisfying finish. So much going on in this wine, it is sure to impress.

6) 2015 Artevani Saperavi ($24)
The Georgian winery of Artevani also produced a compelling organic Saperavi, made from an old recipe and which sees no oak. With a dark red color, it presented with a fruity aroma, and a rich palate of red fruits with a hint of earthiness. It was smooth, with low tannins, good acidity, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. A wine that would pair well with plenty of different foods, from pizza to burgers.

7) 2011 Ktima Biblia Chora Biblinos ($35)
Another fascinating Greek wine, the Biblia Chora Biblinos is made from 100% of an unknown grape that was discovered on the slopes of Mount Pangeon. DNA testing couldn't identify the grape but it was able to verify that it was vitis vinifera, of Greek origin. Essentially this is a lost grape, one whose origins could extend back to the ancient Greeks, and it might never be identified. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged in French oak for about 12 months. With a 14.5% ABV, the wine is inky dark in color with an interesting aroma of black fruit with some light floral notes, like wild violets. On the palate, there is an intriguing and complex melange of flavors, with ripe plum, blueberry and black cherry up front and leading to some spicy and savory notes, especially on the long and lingering finish. Good acidity, some rich voluptuousness up front, and well-integrated tannins. The savory aspect, hints of herbs and roast meat, was compelling and I was well enamored with this wine.

8) 2013 Ramat Negev Ramon Petit Verdot ($39.99)
This Israeli winery saw its origins back in 1997, with a desire to establish a winery that was based only on local produce. Their Petit Verdot, from a single vineyard, spent about 18 months in new French oak and then six months in the bottle. With a powerful spicy aroma, this wine is deep and dark but with restrained tannins. It possesses juicy blackberry and plum flavors with a touch of blueberry, a spicy aspect, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. This is a wine that is probably best paired with food and it should also impress many wine lovers.

9) 2015 Survivor Pinotage ($18-$20)
This South African wine is made from 100% Pinotage and it was aged in 95% French and 5% American oak for about 18 months. Pinotage can be a divisive grape but I've always been a fan, and this example was compelling. I found it to be smoky and spicy, with deep flavors of plum and black cherry, with hints of vanilla, spice and bacon. The tannins were well integrated, it had a lengthy finish, and would be an excellent accompaniment with lamb, steak, or other roasted meats.

10) 2014 Enderle & Moll Basis Pinot Noir ($30)
Pinot Noir is probably not something you think of much when you consider German wines but maybe you should based on this fine example. It has only an 11.5% ABV, an amazingly low alcohol level compared to most other Pinot Noirs. This wine has a very light red color and on the nose, its present an alluring scent of cherry, mild spice and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, you'll be impressed with its elegance and complexity, its bright acidity and delightful flavors of red fruit, spice notes, earthy elements and a touch of herbs. With a lengthy and pleasing finish, this is a killer Pinot, one that can easily compete with Pinots from any other region. It seems like a wine reflective of place, and it was easy to finish the bottle over the course of an evening.

Summary

Eight countries made the list this year, as opposed to seven last year. Georgia and California occupy the most spots on my Top Ten list, each with two spots. The rest of the list is occupied by France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Greece, and Moldova. The list is also broken down into two Sparkling Wines, two White wines, one Rosé, & five Reds.

On the Honorable Mention list, seven countries made the list and Georgia, Greece and Portugal occupy the most places, each with two spots. The other regions include California, Israel, South Africa and Germany. The list is also broken down into two Whites, one Rosé, & seven Reds.

When you combine the two lists, Georgia is in first place with four spots while California and Greece are tied for second place with three spots each. Portugal has two spots while France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Moldova, Israel, South Africa and Germany all have only one spot. In addition, you'll find two Sparkling Wines, four White wines, two Rosé, & twelve Reds. Eight of the wines on these lists were tasted at the Boston Wine Expo.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Thursday, November 2, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, Executive Chef Tyler Kinnett and the team at Harvest welcome Yankee Magazine Lifestyle Editor and cookbook author Amy Traverso of The Apple Lover’s Cookbook for a special “The Book and the Cook” dinner, using recipes from Amy's cookbook. The Apple Lover's Cookbook celebrates the beauty of apples in all their delicious variety, taking you from the orchard to the kitchen with 100 recipes, both sweet and savory.

The dinner will feature a quintessential fall menu that celebrates New England apples, expertly prepared by Executive Chef Tyler Kinnett. Guests will have the opportunity to meet the author while enjoying the freshest flavors of the season. The dinner will include a four-course menu complete with a reception and beverage pairings.

Cost: Price is $65 per person (inclusive of tax and gratuity), and includes a signed copy of The Apple Lover’s Cookbook.
Space is limited and reservations are required. Call 617-868-2255 directly to book seats. Or buy tickets through Eventbrite: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/the-book-the-cook-dinner-the-apple-lovers-cookbook-by-amy-traverso-tickets-38818961559

2) On Wednesday, November 8th at 6:30 p.m., Puritan & Co. will host a special natural wine dinner with Donkey & Goat Owner/Winemaker Jared Brandt. 

Alongside a multi-course meal prepared by Chef Will Gilson and conversation with Brandt, guests will be treated to pours of a selection of Donkey and Goat’s natural wines made from sustainably (or more) farmed vineyards in the Sierra Nevada, Mendocino and Napa.

Tickets are $95 plus tax and gratuity and can be purchased here: https://www.eventbrite.com/e/dinner-with-donkey-goat-winemaker-jared-brandt-tickets-38522158814.

3) Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca Chef Mario LaPosta and his team invite guests to join them on Wednesday, October 25, at 6:30pm, to explore the flavors of Valle d’Aosta. The evening will include a tasting of four different courses, along with wine pairings from the region that is renowned for its ski resorts and medieval castles, Mont Blanc, Matterhorn, and Monte Rosa. Although much less is known about its wines than other regions, Valle d’Aosta vineyards produce some of Italy’s finest.

The menu includes:
1st course:
Poached Pear and Fontina D.O.P. Focaccia
Ermes Pavese 'Blanc de Morgex' Prie Blanc 2015
2nd course:
Veal Cutlet (Cabbage and Oregon Huckleberries)
Bouquetin Gamay 2015
3rd course:
Carbonade "Valdostana" (Braised Heritage Goat, Sweet Onions, Polenta)
Danilo Thomain 'Enfer d'Arvier' Petit Rouge 2013
4th course:
Apple Sotto Sopra (Vanilla Gelato)
Maley 'Pommerbe' NV

Tickets are $95 and can be purchased by logging onto https://valledaostawinedinner.splashthat.com

4) Chris Schlesinger and Dave Cagle, co-owners of The Automatic, announce HELL NIGHT, OCTOBER 30th, as the best (and only) way they know how to celebrate Halloween. “Let’s keep it hotter than hell” is the motto, with “super spicy food and drink specials” on the menu the night before Halloween.

VIP guest for the evening will be Dr. Pepper, (aka George Greenidge) – Hell Night’s Legend himself. Schlesinger and Cagle have special honors planned for Dr. Pepper….could it be a Hotter Than Hell Sausage for all those sausages Greenidge serves outside Fenway Park? Or could it be new red plastic peppers for his Hell Night outfit? Perhaps a lifetime supply of Inner Beauty Sauce? Only the Devil knows.

Some of the spicy appetizers that have been announced for HELL NIGHT at THE AUTOMATIC include:
3 Drunk Devils on Horseback (Blue Cheese + Bacon dripping in Cherry Pepper Jam)
Jamaican Jerk Wings (Scotch Bonnet Mango Sauce)
Frito Pie from HELL (Chili, Longhorn Cheese, Inner Beauty Sauce)
Martins Molten Lava Shrimp Ceviche (Rocoto Chiles, Toasted Cancha, Plantain Chips)
Ginger Shrimp + Pork Dumpling Roulette (Soy Sesame, Black Vinaigrette)
More To Come!

RESERVATIONS: Make reservations by emailing reservations@theautomaticbar.com
This event is extremely likely to sell out so make your reservations ASAP.

5) On Monday, November 6, at 6:30pm, Terramia Ristorante, located on Salem Street in the heart of Boston’s North End, is celebrating the long-standing history of Duca Di Salaparutra with a five-course Sicilian wine dinner. With more than 190 years of winemaking, Duca di Salaparutra is the award-winning and leading wine group in Sicily where each wine is made with expression of specific local areas and of a long wine-making tradition.

At this exclusive dinner, guests will as they enjoy a carefully curated Italian menu paired with Duca di Salaparutra vintages. The meal will start with Cozze Piccanti with sautéed mussels and spicy Organic Marzano tomato seafood broth. The second course follows with Capesante with pan seared sea scallops and veal truffle reduction. Indulge in the Bolognese with traditional ground veal, beef, pork meat tomato ragu. As the night continues, guests can enjoy a delicious Bistecca with Prime Filet Mignon, truffle potato mash, and red wine reduction. Finish the evening with Piatto di Formaggi Italiani featuring chef’s selection of Italian cheeses and dry fruits. Ciro Pirone, Director of Italian Wines at Horizon Beverage Company will be on hand to discuss the nuances and history behind each and every wine.

COST: The dinner is $70 per person (+tax and gratuity).
Reservations are required and can be made by calling Terramia at 617-523-3112