2016 Halter Ranch Ancestor: An Elegant Bordeaux-Style Blend

Since 2011, I've been impressed by the wines of Halter Ranch, a winery located in Paso Robles, California. Although the region of Paso Robles is well known for its Rhône-style wines, plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot constitute about 50% of all plantings. Thus, some wineries are creating Bordeaux-style wines, such as the Halter Ranch Ancestor.

The history of the Halter estate extends back to 1881, when Edwin Smith purchased a 3600 acre estate, though there would not be vineyards on the property until over a hundred years passed. Edwin was born in New Jersey but eventually moved to San Francisco to become a wholesale butcher. In 1874, he then moved to an area west of Paso Robles. Once he purchased the Halter estate, Edwin became a dealer in produce and livestock, as well as investing in silver mines and owning thoroughbreds. He constructed a large Victorian farmhouse on the estate, which remains a landmark even today.

Eventually, after a number of years of success, his businesses began to fail, and in the early 1900s the estate was broken up and sold. In 1943, the MacGillivray family bought 1200 acres of the estate and they owned it for over fifty years. But it was not until 1996 that they decided to plant some grape vines on the property. It would not be until June 2000 that wine would become much more important to the estate when Hansjörg Wyss, a Swiss businessman, bought 900 acres of the ranch, enlarging the size of the vineyards.

The ranch is located in the west side of Paso Robles, about 14 miles from the Pacific Ocean. There are now about 281 acres of vineyards, with 15 acres of walnuts and 10 acres of olive trees. The grape vineyards occupy very steep, south-facing slopes and are planted with about 16 grapes, separated into 57 separate blocks, delineated primarily by soil type. About 60% of the grapes are Bordeaux varieties and 40% are Rhône grapes, with a smattering of Zinfandel, Tannat and Tempranillo. Their new production facility, which uses gravity flow in all aspects of production, was recently completed in 2011 and they continue to use many Old World wine making techniques.

Halter Ranch received Sustainability in Practice (SIP) Vineyard Certification in 2008, indicating its commitment to "environmental stewardship, equitable treatment of employees, and economic viability." This commitment goes beyond organic agriculture, extending to many other areas of winery management. Sustainability is very important to Halter Ranch but their concerns extend beyond the vineyard and should be commended for their commitment to the SIP principles.

SIP Certified launched its pilot program in 2008 and currently certifies about 43,600 vineyard acres in California and Michigan. As their website states, "While you’ll find SIP Certified wines that are also organic and biodynamic, the SIP Certified process addresses additional farming methods, looking at sustainable practices on every level, from farm labor to agriculture – from energy conservation to water quality." If you truly are concerned about sustainability, then you should also want far more than just organic grapes. Seeking SIP certified wines is a great way to support sustainability in the wine industry.

The 2016 Halter Ranch Ancestor Estate Reserve ($80) is a Bordeaux style blend, composed of 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 19% Petite Verdot, and 11% Malbec, from the Adelaida District in Paso Robles. Please note that the specific blend varies from vintage to vintage. The wine is named after a an oak tree on their property, the Ancestor Tree, which is the oldest Coast Live Oak on record, from 500-700 years old. This wine matured for about 18 months in French oak, 50% which were new barrels. Only 3300 bottles of this wine, which has a 14.6% ABV, were produced.

The aromas of this wine were compelling, alluring notes of black fruits and dark spices, which meshed so well together, almost like the smell of a freshly baked fruit pie. On the palate, the wine was powerful yet elegant, with well-integrated tannins and a silky mouthfeel. It possessed a complex melange of flavors, with rich blackberry, black cherry and blueberry, mixed with dark spices, vanilla, and some mineral notes. It was rich and delicious, a hedonistic wine which is sure to please. You don't want its lingering finish to ever end. Paired with a juicy steak, this is a fantastic pairing, and it certainly would do well with many hearty dishes. You can drink this wine now, or set it aside for a few years to see how it develops.

This is the time of year when many people splurge on wine, and I'd highly recommend the 2016 Halter Ranch Ancestor. With its SIP certification, the winery has shown its commitment to sustainability. Plus, the wine is complex and delicious, and worth its price. Plus, if you're looking for something a bit different from the usual Napa or Sonoma wines, choose Paso Robles.

2012: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last Friday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2010 Tikal Natural Malbec ($20)
Produced by Ernesto Catena in Argentina, this wine is made from 100% Malbec, certified organic grapes, and the vineyard is moving toward becoming Biodynamic. The wine spent about a year in oak, mostly second-use French oak, with a small portion of American oak. With a dark purple color, the flavors of the wine burst into your mouth, a pleasant blend of ripe plum, dark cherry, intense spice and bits of mocha. The tannins are moderate, there is good acidity, and the finish is long and satisfying. A hearty fine that will pair well with hearty food, from Bolognese to short ribs.

2) 2006 Eder Raubern Single Vineyard Grüner Veltliner ($17-$20)
The Eder winery, in Austria, is small, possessing about 12 hectares of vineyards and produces only about 20,000 bottles annually. The Raubern is a single vineyard wine that thoroughly impressed me. The melange of flavors fascinated me with their complexity, with plenty of spice and floral notes, yet still with noticeable stone fruit components. Despite its age, this seemed still very fresh and it was a clear winner, sure to please any wine lover. An excellent value at this price point.

3) 2009 Willamette Valley Vineyards Estate Pinot Noir ($43.99)
In general, I enjoy Oregon Pinot Noirs and some are superb. This wine was a stunner, subtle and seductive as well as elegant and complex. The melange of flavors ranged from bright cherry to ripe plum, from cinnamon to black pepper. You need to slowly sip and savor this wine, to perceive all of the diverse flavors within. Well balanced, this wine provides an alluring finish that seems to caress your palate with silk, lingering long within your mouth. A killer wine, I highly recommend this one.

4) 2011 Prieure de Montezargues Tavel Rosé ($20)
This is one of my favorite French Rosé wines, and the 2011 is equally as good as the previous year. The Rosé is a blend of 8 grapes, including 55% Grenache (red & white), 30% Cinsault, 13% Clairette, and 2% Others (Syrah, Mourvedre, Carignan & Bourboulanc). It is produced through pressing and underwent stainless steel fermentation and then a short term of aging on the lees. It was a pale pink color, crisp, dry and elegant. Delicious and complex tastes of cherry, strawberry, and grapefruit with a mineral backbone. You should drink this Rosé year round.

5) 2008 Felsina Chianti Classico Riserva Rancia ($35-$45)
One of my favorite wines from my Chianti Classico trip, the Rancia is made from 100% Sangiovese, all from a single vineyard named Rancia. That vineyard derives its name from a historic farm that once was a Benedictine monastery. The wine was barrel aged for 16-18 months in new and one year old 225-liter oak barrels and then spent an additional 6-8 months aging in the bottle. The Rancia possessed an alluring smell, a melange of wonderful aromas that beckoned to me like a siren. It was a traditional style, with a delightful earthy component, and a compelling taste of black cherry, blueberry, violets, spice, and hints of leather. It was elegant and intriguing, with a lengthy, satisfying finish. Just a superb wine.

6) 2011 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso Blanc ($24)
Paso Robles seems to be a great region for  Rhône grapes and this Halter Ranch wine is an enticing Southern Rhône blend of 33% Grenache, 26% Roussanne, 20% Picpoul Blanc, 12% Marsanne, and 9% Viognier. It was fermented in French oak, stirred twice a week to mix in the lees, and doesn't undergo malolactic fermentation. The aroma was spectacular, a complex and harmonious melange of floral, fruit and herb notes, all of which also came out on the palate. Peaches, lemons, melons, white flowers, minerality and so much more. Well balanced, complex, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and excellent acidity. A highly recommended wine.

7) 2004 Rodano Viacosta Chianti Classico Riserva ($30)
This is another winner from Chianti Classico. The winery produces traditional style Chianti Classico and I was impressed with all of their wines I tasted. The Viacosta was a stand out, made from 100% Sangiovese that was aged for about 24 months, 60% in French oak and 20% of that is new. It had an alluring aroma and on the palate it was stunning. Complex, elegant, rustic, spicy, and with a lengthy and pleasing finish. A great food wine, this should be in your wine cellar.

8) 2011 Blomidon Estate Winery Rosé ($15.99)
Several years ago, I toured some of the wineries of Nova Scotia but plenty more have sprung up since that time. One of those new ones is Blomidon Estate Winery, which is committed to producing wines using only Nova Scotia grown grapes. Their 2011 Rosé is a blend of three hybrids: New York Muscat, L’Acadie Blanc and Baco Noir. It was crisp, dry, and clean with subtle strawberry and watermelon flavors and hints of floral notes. It was far more Provence style than California, and paired very well with a variety of foods. You never would have known this was made from hybrids. In a blind tasting, you might assume this was a French Rosé.

9) 2010 Planeta Carricante ($36)
Sicily possesses a number of indigenous grapes including Carricante, a white grape thought to extend back to the 9th century and is primarily found in the Etna region. It is a late maturing grape, thrives in high altitudes and has a high acidity which allows it to age well. This wine was made from 100% Carricante and remains on the lees until the February after harvest when it is then bottled. It had a light gold color with an exciting aroma of apples and floral notes. On the palate, it was crisp, clean and complex with a dominant steely minerality and subtle fruit flavors, including pear and green apple. A lengthy and satisfying finish, this would be an excellent seafood wine and it should age very well too. I heartily recommend it.

10) 2010 Joel Gott Alakai ($24)
This California red wine blend is comprised of 77% Grenache, 17% Syrah, 4% Mourvedre, and 2% Petite Sirah. It had an alluring nose, great fruit and hints of spice and was compelling on the palate. Complex, with a delicious melange of reds fruits and spice, with hints of earthiness. It was more on the lighter side with smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish. An excellent food wine, or something you can savor on its own. Just plain delicious

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually add to this list. Like my previous list, no single country dominated though Italy once again occupied three spots, due to my trip to Chianti Classico. California took two spots while Argentina, Austria, Oregon, France, and Nova Scotia each took one spot. The list is also broken down into 2 Rosé, 3 Whites and 5 Red wines. Half of the wines on the list also cost less than $25.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Halter Ranch Vineyard: SIP & Sip

Two years ago, I visited the Paso Robles region and was especially impressed with many of their Rhône-style wines, made from a variety of Rhône grapes, including Syrah, Grenache, Carignane, Marsanne, Roussanne, Grenache Blanc and more. Interestingly, Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot make up about 50% of all plantings in Paso Robles. Part of the reason is that a number of wine makers indicated that Rhône-style wines are a tough sell with many consumers. Those consumers are missing out on some excellent wines and Paso Robles is a region that you should explore, either by visiting the area or tasting their wines.

I recently received three samples from Halter Ranch, a Paso Robles winery, and it included two Rhône-style wines and one Bordeaux-style wine. At a local food event, I previously tasted the 2007 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso, a Rhône-style red, and was impressed. So I looked forward to tasting some of their other wines.

The history of the Halter estate extends back to 1881, when Edwin Smith purchased a 3600 acre estate, though there would not be vineyards on the property until over a hundred years passed. Edwin was born in New Jersey but eventually moved to San Francisco to become a wholesale butcher. In 1874, he then moved to an area west of Paso Robles. Once he purchased the Halter estate, Edwin became a dealer in produce and livestock, as well as investing in silver mines and owning thoroughbreds. He constructed a large Victorian farmhouse on the estate, which remains a landmark even today.

Eventually, after a number of years of success, his businesses began to fail, and in the early 1900s the estate was broken up and sold. In 1943, the MacGillivray family bought 1200 acres of the estate and they owned it for over fifty years. But it was not until 1996 that they decided to plant some grape vines on the property. It would not be until June 2000 that wine would become much more important to the estate when Hansjörg Wyss, a Swiss businessman, bought 900 acres of the ranch, enlarging the vineyards from 40 to about 250 acres. There are even plans to plant more acreage this year.

The ranch is located in the west side of Paso Robles, about 14 miles from the Pacific Ocean. The vineyards occupy very steep, south-facing slopes and are planted with about 20 grapes, separated into 57 separate blocks, delineated primarily by soil type. About 60% of the grapes are Bordeaux varieties and 40% are Rhône grapes, with a smattering of Zinfandel, Tannat and Tempranillo. Their new production facility, which uses gravity flow in all aspects of production, was recently completed in 2011 and they continue to use many Old World wine making techniques.

Halter Ranch received SIP (Sustainability in Practice) Vineyard Certification in 2008, indicating its commitment to "environmental stewardship, equitable treatment of employees, and economic viability." This commitment goes beyond organic agriculture, extending to many other areas of winery management. Sustainability is very important to Halter Ranch but their concerns extend beyond the vineyard and should be commended for their commitment to the SIP principles.

The 2011 Halter Ranch Rosé ($16) is a blend of 44% Grenache, 28% Syrah, 20% Mourvedre, and 8% Picpoul Blanc. It was fermented in stainless steel, did not undergo malolactic fermentation and was aged for four months in stainless steel. It saw no oak at all and has an alcohol content of 14.1%. It is supposed to be made in a Southern Rhône style and I found it quite appealing, with nice flavors of cherry and raspberry, and an underlying backbone of some minerality. It was dry and seemed to be more in an Old World style than the typical California Rosés. This is perfect for the summer, but would be enjoyable year round, and also is an excellent food wine.

Of the three wines, my clear favorite was the 2011 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso Blanc ($24), an enticing Southern Rhône blend of 33% Grenache, 26% Roussanne, 20% Picpoul Blanc, 12% Marsanne, and 9% Viognier. It was fermented in French oak, stirred twice a week to mix in the lees, and did not undergo malolactic fermentation. It was then aged Sur Lie for four months in neutral French oak and has an alcohol content of 14.2%. The aroma was spectacular, a complex and harmonious melange of floral, fruit and herb notes, all of which also came out on the palate. Peaches, lemons, melons, white flowers, minerality and so much more. Well balanced, complex, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and excellent acidity. When the bottle was empty, I was craving another. A highly recommended wine.

The 2008 Halter Ranch Ancestor Estate Reserve ($44) is a Bordeaux style blend of 25% Petit Verdot, 24% Cabernet Sauvignon, 24% Syrah, 15% Merlot, and 12% Malbec. It was aged for about 18 months in French oak, 50% new, and then bottled two years prior to its release. With an alcohol content of 15.6%, it is on the higher side, though it did not seem overly alcoholic on the palate. It has a taste of ripe black and blue fruits with vanilla and spice accents. Though a powerful wine, it is not overly so, but would benefit from being paired with a hearty dish like a juicy steak.

Check out Paso Robles wines, especially the Rhône-style wines, and Halter Ranch's wines would be a good start.

2011: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last week, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful, and now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1)  2007 Bodegas Paso Robles Vaca Negra ($24)

For the second year in a row, this winery has a wine on this list. Owner and winemaker Dorothy Schuler is working wonders with Spanish and Portuguese grapes in California. This wine, a blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Mourvedre, is impressive, with a complex melange of appealing flavors and its lushness provides hedonistic pleasures. If you have not tried any of Dorothy's wines, I strongly encourage you to seek them out.

2)  2008 Francis Tannahill Dragonfly Gewürztraminer ($20-$25)
Though this is an Oregon winery, the grapes are from a select organic vineyard in Washington. The vineyard may have the oldest Gewürztraminer in the Northwest region and the wine is a superb example of this grape. Strongly aromatic with exotic spices and tropical fruits, this is a very appealing wine. One of the best Gewürztraminer I have tasted in some time.

3)  2009 Ayres Pinot Noir, Lewis Rodgers Lane ($35)
Also from Oregon, this wine is a blend of five Pinot Noir clones, and the winery itself is one of the relative newcomers to that region. But it is already producing excellent wines and this wine is beautiful, complex and possessed of an elegant melange of black and blue fruits with dark spice and earthiness. This is a winery to keep an eye on for the future.

4)  NV Horton Vineyards Sparkling Viognier ($25)
I didn't get to taste anywhere near as many Virginia wines as I wanted to at the Wine Blogger's Conference, but of those that I did, this was a standout. It was crisp, clean and dry with flavors of peach, citrus and white flowers. It was a very appealing sparkling wine which should please many people.

5)  2008 Marani Mukuzani (about $17)
This year, I got some exposure to the wines of the country of Georgia, an area which is becoming hot in the wine world. There are over 500 indigenous grapes in Georgia though only about 38 are currently used for wine production.This wine is made from 100% Saperavi, offering enticing black cherry and plum aroma with a taste of those same fruits, meshed with vanilla, spice and a tinge of chocolate. Yet there was also a unique exotic taste to this complexity which eluded definition. An excellent value at this price.

6)  2007 Bagrationi 1882 Reserve Brut ($19.99)
Georgia also produces some intriguing sparkling wines, like this one which is a blend of Chinebuli, Mtsvane, and Tsitska, three grapes you have probably never heard of before. It was produced by the Methode Champenoise and possesses a strong minerality, almost a steely nature. The fruit flavors, some peach and melon, were subdued but noticeable. Clean, refreshing and with good acidity. A wine of character at a very reasonable price.

7)  Bodegas Renacer Enamore ($30)
An Amarone style wine from Argentina? It is not as crazy as it sounds, especially considering how many Italians immigrated to Argentina. This wine is a blend of 62% Malbec, 14% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Cabernet Franc, 9% Bonarda, and 4% Syrah. All of the grapes were dried out for about three weeks. The result is a seductive and silky wine that is sure to tantalize your senses. This is a wine to share with someone you love.

8)  2009 Alma Negra Misterio ($40-$45)
As the name indicates, this wine is a bit of a mystery and the actual blend is secret, though it may contain Malbec, Petite Verdot, Merlot, Bonarda and/or Cabernet Sauvignon. Complex, smooth and well structured, it is a wine to slowly savor. It has more elegance than power, and it would be fine on its own, or paired with a hearty dish.

9)  1999 L D'or de Luneau-Papin 'Cuvee Medaillee' Muscadet Sevre et Maine ($25)
This may be one of the best bargains on the list, a 12 year old Muscadet. Complex and intriguing flavors with dried fruits, apricot, honey, minerality, and even some herbal notes. There was still plenty of life in this wine, and I would easily have bought a case at this low price. A wine of this quality rarely is priced this low.

10)  2008 Quinta dos Murças Reserva Red ($45)
Portugal impressed at the value wines, and now they represent on this list as well. This is a fascinating wine, a field blend of old vines, maybe 25 grapes or so. Only about five of the grapes in the blend are identifiable, making this a vinous mystery. It has an enticing and exotic nose, with an earthy and spicy smell mixed in with blackfruit, while its taste is a complex melange of earth, spice, vanilla, blackfruit and even mild hints of herbality. A superb wine which should impress most wine lovers and is an example of the best of Portugal.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. So I had to ponder long over which wines to actually add to this list. Last year, California dominated this list, occupying six spots but this year only a single California wine made the list. But three other U.S. wines did make the list, from Oregon, Washington and Virginia.  Georgia (the country) and Argentina both occupy two spots on the list while France and Portugal each occupy one spot.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Loving Lamb at the Charles

Lamb seems to be a very polarizing meat, one that you either love or hate.  There is little middle ground with lamb, and it is curious why it invokes such strong emotions in people.  It might have to do with the gamey flavor you sometimes taste with lamb, which may be too intense for some people.

I am a lamb lover though, so was eager to attend the Second Annual Lamb Jam, held at The Charles Hotel.  The Boston event was a partnership between the American Lamb Board and BostonChefs.com, and over 500 lamb lovers came out to enjoy a diverse selection of dishes.  Seventeen local chefs competed at the event, each offering an interesting, and often tasty selection for the attendees.  There were representatives from eight beer brewers and wineries from Paso Robles and Washington. Plus, there were tables for Cabot Cheese, Lovin' Spoonfuls, Harvard Sweet Boutique and others.

The chefs competed in four cut categories: leg, loin, shank and shoulder and shank.  The winner moves on to compete against chefs from San Francisco, Seattle, and Washington, D.C., at a New York Jamb Jam Cook-off in September.

Chef Jason Santos of Gargoyles on the Square reigned supreme, winning Best Overall Dish, as well Best Loin Dish for Poached Lamb Loin with Black Truffle, Cauliflower Espuma, Bee Pollen and Fried Garlic. Chef Cassie Piuma of Oleana won the People’s Choice Favorite for Lamb Cammama, spiced lamb shoulder with onions, Moroccan dates, almond bread, carrot salad, blood orange and clantro. Chef Brian Reyelt of Citizen Public House won Best Leg Dish for Lamb Jerky 3 Ways, Bourbon smoked, honey ginger and spicy & sweet.  Chef Jim Solomon of The Fireplace won Best Shank Dish for Braised Lamb Shank with Sheep Milk Cream over Winter Squash Stew and Cheesy Cornmeal Porridge.  Chef Will Gilson of Garden at the Cellar won Best Shoulder Dish for Lamb Sausage Ssam with Nuoc Cham, Kimchi Slaw and Crispy Garlic.

Overall, the event ran well and in general, was much less crowded than similar food festivals.  There was about a thirty minute block when the event was packed, and it became very difficult to maneuver through the crowds.  But, the crowds lessened once the butchery demo began.  It may have helped that there was a secondary room where attendees could sit and eat, thus lessening the crowds in the main hall. 

Though I am not a fan of beer, the brewery tables appeared very popular.  More to my liking, there were tables with wines from Paso Robles, California (pictured above) and Washington. After my last year's trip to Paso Robles, I have become very partial to their wines and was glad to see some of their wines here. The 2009 Austin Hope Grenache ($42), 2007 Halter Ranch Cotes de Paso ($28), and 2008 Robert Hall Syrah ($18) all were very good wines, especially paired with the lamb dishes.  The Austin Hope was especially compelling, with an alluring nose and an intriguing melange of flavors, with dominant spice notes.  Paso Robles continues to work magic with Rhone grapes.

The Washington wines had some winners as well.  My two favorites were the 2009 Tamarock Cellars Cabernet Franc ($25) and the 2006 Hestia Cabernet Sauvignon ($35). The Tamarock was a big wine, lots of black fruits and spices, and no vegetal taste at all.  Just my style of Cab Franc. The Hestia was a smooth, easy drinking Cabernet, with mild tannins, blueberry and plum flavors and hints of spice. Again, both were nice choices for lamb.

If you were squeamish, then you probably didn't attend the lamb butchery demo, which was conducted by butchers from Tavolo and The Meat House. But, if you enjoy meat, you should attend such demos, to learn more about the food you eat.  If we are willing to enjoy meat, we should not hesitate to see it in its unprocessed state.  We should gain a deeper connection to our food, so I am glad to see more and more of these demos at local food events.

I did not taste every dish at the Lamb Jam, but did get to enjoy many of them.  I regret missing out on trying Chef Santos's winning Poached Lamb Loin. I will discuss though some of my most enjoyable lamb dishes, including a couple that did win prizes.

Probably my favorite dish of the event was prepared by Chef Jim Solomon of The Fireplace, a New England Grill in Brookline.  He made a Braised Lamb shank with sheep milk cream over winter squash stew and cheesy cornmeal porridge.  The dish was extremely flavorful, with plenty of tender, savory meat and the porridge was also quite good. A hearty, winter dish, this was very satisfying and worthy of its win. It also perked my interest enough to want to dine at The Fireplace.

Another of the winning dishes belonged to Chef Brian Reyelt of Citizen Public House, his Lamb Jerky 3 Ways: whisky smoked, honey ginger, and spicy & sweet.  The tender, albeit chewy meat (it is jerky), was strong on taste and each flavor was very different from the other. This would be a great snack anytime, and its varied flavors would satisfy most people. 

A few of the chefs chose to make lamb ravioli, which certainly garners my approval.  Chef Justin Melnick of Tomasso Trattoria prepared a delightful Ravioli con Agnello, braised lamb shank ravioli with mascarpone cheese. These homemade ravioli contained plenty of moist, flavorful meat with hints of sweetness from the mascarpone.  The ravioli was also topped with a dollop of mascarpone, adding a bit more sweetness without overwhelming the ravioli.

Chef Robert Sisca of Bistro Du Midi also created a delicious ravioli dish, the Cumin and Garlic Sous Vide Lamb Loin with braised lamb neck ravioli, baby carrots, pine nuts and lamb jus.  This home made ravioli was also well filled with scrumptious lamb, and had the addition of a perfectly cooked slice of loin. I could have devoured a large plate of these ravioli and loin slices.

Chef Jody Adams of Rialto offered a delightful Lamb Scotch Egg with winter salad, bacon lardons, and truffle vinaigrette. The egg was surrounded by like a lamb sausage, and the entire item was deep fried with a nice, crunchy exterior.  The lamb was spiced well and it was a great snack, an excellent bar food.

Chef Michael Scelfo of Russell House Tavern presented Merguez Sliders, with minted sweet pickles, smoked lamb belly vinaigrette, and a harissa ginger aioli. I really enjoyed these, except for the aioli (though that is only because I am not a fan of most aioli).  The meat was moist and flavorful, the pickles adding a  nice texture as well as a subtle sweetness and mint flavor. The roll was soft and fresh, and I would have enjoyed an even larger merguez burger.  

Lamb, it is what should be for dinner.

Bodegas Paso Robles: Tempranillo Treasures

Tapas are not just small dishes of Spanish cuisine.  TAPAS is also the Tempranillo Advocates, Producers and Amigos Society. It is "a nonprofit trade association of over eighty wineries, growers, and amigos, whose mission is to promote Tempranillo and other varietal wine grapes native to the Iberian Peninsula, and wines produced from them in North America."  With my own love for grapes native to Iberia, I believe TAPAS is playing a very important role in California, and its members are producing some fantastic wines from these grapes.  Some of these grapes were planted over 100 years ago by Iberian immigrants, and are in danger of extinction unless they are nurtured and embraced by local wineries.

One of their members is Bodegas Paso Robles, which I visited last year, and two of their wines made my list of 2010: Top Ten Wines Over $15.  These wines included the fantastic 2006 Bodegas Paso Robles Graciano and 2006 Bodegas Paso Robles Pimenteiro. The owner and winemaker, Dorothy Schuler, is passionate and talented, and I strongly recommend her wines. She is concerned about protecting the Iberian grapes planted in California, and has done her part to promote these fine grapes.  Thus, such winemakers, especially when they produce compelling wines, deserve our support.

I recently received samples of two of her latest wines, the 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles Viva Tu! and 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles Vaca Negra, and these new wines only solidified my belief in the winery.

The 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles Viva Tu! ($28) is produced from 100% Tempranillo, from the French Camp Vineyard in Paso Robles. The wine spent about 23 months in the barrel, a mix of new and neutral French and American oak. It has an alcohol content of 13.8% and only 125 cases were produced. The wine has a deep red, almost purple color, and an enticing spicy nose.  On the palate, the spiciness was strong and appealing, with undercurrent of black fruits, vanilla, and leather. The tannins were moderate and the finish was fairly long, and very satisfying.  This wine felt like some of the modern-style Tempranillo wines from Spain and would be perfect for a hearty dish, from a pasta Bolognese to a steak.    
 
The 2007 Bodegas Paso Robles Vaca Negra ($24) is produced from a blend of 50% Tempranillo and 50% Mourvedre, all of the grapes from Vista Creek in Paso Robles. The wine spent about 21 months in new and neutral French oak. It has an alcohol content of 14.5% and only 192 cases were produced. This was a very impressive wine, especially as Mourvedre is one of my favorite grapes.  It had a rich red color with a very compelling nose of bright fruit and spice. When you taste it, your mouth is filled with lush fruit, such as black cherry and hints of blueberry, accompanied by a melange of spice notes and an almost elusive earthy component.  Though this would make an excellent food wine, I can enjoy it on its own too.  The tannins are mild and the lushness of the wine makes you want more and more.  I highly recommend this wine!

So support Bodegas Paso Robles and the other members of TAPAS.

2010: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful, and now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15.  But, these wines also cost less than $50. 

Like the prior list, it includes wines that during the past year I have enjoyed very much and which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out for some particular reason above the other wines I tasted this past year. I highly recommend all of these wines, and believe many wine lovers will also enjoy these wines.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and all are definitely worth your consideration. Each of the choices is linked to my more detailed prior review. Please also note that the actual price of the wine may vary in your area. 

1. 2008 Spice Route Chakalaka, South Africa (about $18.99)
With a fun name, which refers to a spicy South African relish, this wine is like a ramped up Rhone wine, with an air of the exotic.  An intriguing blend of seven grapes, it has a nice lushness with a balanced flavors and a lengthy finish. It really pleased and intrigued my palate, and was one of my favorite wines of the Boston Wine Expo, as well as another reason why I enjoy South African wines.  

2. 2009 Villicana Vin Rosé, Paso Robles, California ($18)
Yes, I love Rosé and this wine rocked, being one of my favorite wines during my visit to Paso Robles. It reminded me of an Old World Rosé, dry with restrained red fruit flavors. It had nice acidity, was quite refreshing and paired very well with food.  It is not your typical California Rosé and helps to show the potential of the Paso Robles region. 

3. 2006 Anglim Winery Cameo, Paso Robles, California ($22)
Paso Robles does a great job with Rhone grapes, and this white blend of Marsanne, Roussanne, and Viognier thoroughly impressed me.  Such an alluring aroma led to nuanced and complex flavors, including fruit, floral and mineral.  It was simply an amazing wine and also reflects the great potential of this region.  The winery had other very good wines too, but this stood out to me as especially compelling.

4. 2006 Bodegas Paso Robles Graciano and 2006 Bodegas Paso Robles Pimenteiro, Paso Robles, California (both at $36)
Yes, more wines from Paso Robles and I couldn't choose just one.  This winery is owned by a very passionate woman who makes wines from only Spanish and Portuguese varietals. And she is making plenty of superb and interesting wines, including these two examples.  Both are intriguing and absolutely delicious wines. They are not what you expect from California and will surely please even the most discerning wine lover.  Broaden your palate and be rewarded.

5. 2005 Graham Beck Brut Blanc de Blanc, South Africa ($22)
If you blind tasted this wine, you would probably think it was a Champagne. I found it to be dry and crisp with a complex taste of green apple, pear and hints of cream.  An excellent value at this price, it shows why countries beside France dominate the sparkling wine market at this price point. And it is more proof of the good things being done by South Africa.

6. 2007 Heart and Hands Barrel Reserve Pinot Noir, Finger Lakes, NY ($39.99)
As I mentioned yesterday, the Finger Lake are best known for their whites, but this wine is another that shows they can make world class reds too, even Pinot Noir.  This was a stunning wine, for which superlatives just don't do it justice.  The passionate owners have handcrafted an amazing Pinot, and I cannot recommend it enough.  If you love Pinot, especially those in the Burgundian style, you really need to find this wine. I probably should have bought even more while I was at the winery.

7. 2009 Georges Dubouef Moulin-à-Vent, Domaine de la Tour du Bief, France ($16.99)
2009 was a top vintage for Beaujolais, and the wines certainly show far more depth than usual. Out of a couple dozen that I have tasted, this wine stood above the others, reminding me of a fine Burgundy. It had intriguing and complex flavors, from ripe plum to subtle earthy notes. It was smooth, delicious and had a lengthy and interesting finish. And at this price, it is a steal.

8. 1997 Coturri Assemblage, California ($29.99)
Tony Coturri makes natural wines, with no added sulfites, and some believe such wines lack an aging potential.  But, this 13 year old wine disproves that, showing plenty of life and potential for even greater aging.  It is a blend of Cabernet Sauvignon and Merlot, reminding me of a smooth and complex Bordeaux.  This is also a value wine at this price so be sure to scoop up a few bottles, if you can find them, as it is a low production wine. 

9. Quady Deviation, California ($25/375ml)
This was one of the most unique dessert wines I have tasted in quite some time. Upfront, you'll find some mild sweetness and citrus flavors but the finish is dry and herbal, not what you expect. Plenty of complexity, a lengthy finish, and a sheer pleasure in your mouth.  An excellent choice for a jaded palate.

10. Sutton Cellars Brown Label Dry Vermouth, California ($18-$20)
Yes, if you were not aware, Vermouth is actually a wine, which is fortified and aromatized.  This is a dry artisan Vermouth, made from white wine and seventeen other ingredients, including various herbs, barks and roots.  It has a clean, light herbal taste and I prefer to drink it on ice with some club soda.  A great summer drink, or something to warm you on a cold, snowy day.  Forget the mass produced Vermouths, and seek this inexpensive artisan one.

This was a very tough list to compile because there were plenty of other great choices which I could have added. So I had to ponder long over which wines would actually make the list. The final list even surprised me when I examined it in retrospect.   

California clearly dominated the list, occupying six spaces with seven wines, and Paso Robles took three of those places. I visited Paso Robles in the spring and was very impressed with their wines. Interestingly, two of the three spots were of Paso Robles wineries that I visited on my own, and which were not part of my scheduled itinerary.  Last year, my list had only a single California wine so this year was a major change.  But, many of the California wines I chose are clearly more European in style, and not the usual California style.  The other four spots were taken by South Africa (which had two spots), France and the Finger Lakes of New York. 

The list is diverse, with Sparkling Wine, Rosé, White, Red, Fortified and Dessert Wines. There are intriguing and delicious wines being produced in all varieties and styles. I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too.

My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting.  I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Bodegas Paso Robles: A Taste of Spain & Portugal

As I mentioned before, my free time during my Paso Robles trip was very limited so I had a small window of opportunity to explore the downtown tasting rooms. Near the end of my visit to Anglim Winery, Steffanie Anglim graciously called Dorothy Schuler, the owner and winemaker of Bodegas Paso Robles, and arranged a private appointment for me to visit her tasting room.

I wanted to visit Bodegas Paso Robles because I knew they produced wines made from Spanish and Portuguese grapes, and that certainly interested me. Plus, it was different from many of the other local wineries, which were more concentrating on Rhone varieties as well as the usual suspects. I was seeking something more unique and I certainly found it.

Dorothy Schuler was once a writer, contributing to magazines like Cycling, which certainly seems a far way from wine. She was also passionate about art, tithing some of her income to arts-related projects. The idea for a winery began with her husband and his partner, a salesman, and Dorothy was only going to be involved in doing some of the paperwork. Yet fate intervened, turning expectations over on its head.

First, the partner had to pull out of the endeavor and then Dorothy's husband had to go to the United Kingdom for business. So Dorothy was left on her own with the winery, encouraged by her husband to operate it. That is certainly a radical change from just doing the paperwork. Dorothy rose up to confront this challenge, locating a mentor who taught her how to make wine, especially Iberian-style wines.

Dorothy's passion for winemaking grew and she chose to produce only wines made from Spanish and Portuguese grapes because she felt it was a perfect niche market. When she began, she was one of the first local wine makers to use Tempranillo and it was not even commercially available at the start. She purchases all of her grapes, locating growers across California who have the Spanish and Portuguese grapes she desires. It has not been easy, and she has had to educate consumers and others about these grapes. Plus, she is continually experimenting, trying to produce better wine all the time, as well as using different grapes and blends.

In 2002, she produced her first vintage of only 300 cases. Currently, Dorothy makes about seven different wines, with additional ones due in the near future, and production of each wine remains limited, from about 18 cases up to 500 cases. It is a true boutique winery.

Dorothy is an interesting character, very pleasant and obviously passionate about her wines. It was a real pleasure to taste her wines and I am very glad that I chose to stop here. The wine world needs more winemakers willing to experiment, to make different wines, and to test the boundaries.

The labels for most of the wines have an intriguing piece of artwork on them, a monoprint Cara Bella by Dorothy's good friend Morse Clary. The background color on each label depicts the flavors in the wine.

The wine tasting was very cool, with Dorothy generously opening a couple older vintages so I could compare them to the current releases. She also had me compare the tastes of some of the wines to different ones, to get a better idea of the nuances of each individual. It was a fun and revealing tasting, showing the unique differences of the wines.

I started by tasting the 2002 and 2005 Solea ($34), a blend of Tempranillo and Graciano. For 2005, the blend was 86% Tempranillo and 14% Graciano. In 2002, the blend was a bit different, with less Graciano, which is hard to come by in California. The two grapes are fermented separately and blended one year before bottling. The wine's appellation is Central Coast, from the Santa Ana Valley Vineyard (Tres Piños). The 2005 spent 23 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 13.9% and only 121 cases were produced.

The 2002 Solea was a bit funky on the nose, and probably could benefit from decanting. On the palate, it had bright fruit flavors of blueberry, plum and cherry with some pronounced earthiness and underlying spice. In comparison, the 2005 had more pronounced fruit and much less earthiness. Both wines were smooth, complex and had lengthy and pleasant finishes. The 2002 reminded me more of a traditional Spanish wine while the 2005 was more like the new style Spanish wines.

I also got to compare the 2002 and 2005 ¡Viva Yo! ($24), a blend of Tempranillo and Cabernet Sauvignon. For 2005, the blend was 90% Tempranillo and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. The wine's appellation is Central Coast, with the Tempranillo from Santa Ana Valley Vineyard (Tres Piños) and Starr Ranch (Paso Robles, Westside) and the Cabernet Sauvignon from Rancho Encino Vineyard (Paso Robles, Westside). The 2005 spent 23 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14% and only 501 cases were produced.

Like the 2002 Solea, the 2002 ¡Viva Yo! had some funk on the nose. The fruit flavors were also more subdued, making this a more elegant and subtle wine. In comparison, the 2005 was fruitier but had rougher tannins, and probably needs more time in the bottle. It is a simpler wine than the Solea, and much more of an every day wine to drink with dinner.

I was very impressed with the 2006 Graciano ($36), which is made from 100% Graciano, a rarity for any region. Dorothy has had difficulty purchasing Graciano grapes, and there are few plantings in California. It does not help that it is usually a low yielding grape. This was the first vintage she was able to produce and used 100% Graciano. The wine's appellation is Central Coast, from the Santa Ana Valley Vineyard (Tres Piños). This wine spent 23 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 13.5% and only 167 cases were produced.

The Graciano had a compelling and fragrant nose, primarily cherry and floral notes. On the palate, it possessed lush flavors of cherry and raspberry with hints of floral and spice. The more I paid attention to the wine, the more flavors that seemed to flit about my mouth. It had much more complexity than I expected, and a deliciously long finish. A bright, vibrant wine, this is probably something that will age for some time, evolving even more complexity. I had to buy this wine, as the taste was so satisfying, and it is definitely unique.

The 2003 Iberia ($44) is an intriguing blend of 32% Touriga Nacional, 30% Graciano, 30% Tempranillo, and 8% Tinto Cão. Each varietal is fermented alone, barreled for one year, and then blended and returned to barrel for almost another year. The wine's appellation is California, from the Blair Vineyard Spanish Block in Calistoga, Napa Valley. This wine spent 23 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.8% and only 192 cases were produced. This wine had just been released.

I found this wine to have that unique Portuguese aroma to it, a compelling smell I associate with their indigenous grapes. It is very alluring and exotic, something I can just sit and savor, even without taking a sip. Its taste too reminded me of a Portuguese wine, with dark fruit flavors, spice and a certain exotic flair to it. Tannins were mild and it was like liquid silk in my mouth. Lots of complexity elevated this wine, as well as its lengthy and interesting finish. If I had tasted it blind, I would have said it was from Portugal rather than California. It is pricey, but you are getting a lot of wine for your money.

If I thought the 2006 Graciano was unique, it had nothing on the 2006 and 2007 Pimenteiro ($36). This is made primarily from the Trousseau grape, also known as Bastardo and about 25 other names. This is a rare grape, especially in the U.S., and most famously is used in making Port. To find a wine made predominantly with Trousseau is extremely rare. The budwood for these vines came from the El Gavilan Vineyard, which was planted in 1890 by Portuguese immigrants. The wine's appellation is Central Coast, from the Siletto and Santa Ana Valley Vineyards (Tres Piños).

The 2006 Pimenteiro, the first vintage of this wine, was made from 100% Bastardo and only 18 cases were produced. "Pimenteiro" means “pepper pot” in Portuguese and the wine is very appropriately named for black and white pepper dominate the aroma and taste of this wine. There are underlying fruit flavors, ripe plum and blueberry, but the pepper certainly takes front stage. Complexity, a long finish and lots of character. It was a very unique and compelling wine to me, and I very much enjoyed the taste. This would be an excellent food wine, especially with something hearty to stand up to the peppery flavors. I had to buy a couple bottles of this wine and would highly recommend it.

For those who might not want so much pepper, you can try the 2007 vintage which is a blend of 90% Bastardo and 10% Tempranillo. The Tempranillo is supposed to tame some of that peppery flavor. This wine also spent 22 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.5% and only 76 cases were produced. I did not have a chance to taste this wine, but Dorothy generously sent me a bottle which is now sitting in my cellar. I can't wait to compare it to the 2006 vintage.

Lastly, I tasted the 2008 Doña Blanca ($19), a blend of 60% Grenache Blanc and 40% Malvasia Bianca. The wine's appellation is Paso Robles, from Nevarez (Grenache Blanc) and French Camp vineyards (Malvasia Bianca). The wine spent 7 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 15% and only 223 cases were produced.

The alluring nose on this wine had pleasant floral notes and citrus smells. It was a crisp, dry white wine with delicious melon, pear and orange peel flavors. There was a subtle exotic flavor to the wine as well, almost a tropical taste to it. An excellent summer wine, good on its own or pair it with seafood or a salad.

Dorothy is making some very interesting and delicious wines, and she will be producing even more in the future, such as the Vaca Negra (a blend of Monastrell and Tempranillo), a GTM (Garnacha, Tempranillo, Monastrell), an Albarino and a 100% Tempranillo wine.

Unfortunately, these wines generally are not available in Massachusetts but you still can obtain some of her wines. Dorothy is one of the participating female winemakers for Women of the Vine. This unites female winemakers under one brand to showcase their diverse talents, and their wines are available in Massachusetts. For this label, Dorothy has produced the Napa Valley Napa Rojo and the Paso Robles Tempranillo.

If you visit Paso Robles, you really must make an appointment to visit Dorothy at Bodegas Paso Robles. She is a passionate and interesting wine maker producing some unique and delicious wines. My visit to her tasting room was certainly a highlight of my trip, and I can't wait to share some of the wines I bought with good friends.

Bodegas Paso Robles
729 13th Street
Paso Robles, CA
Phone: 805-237-3780 (tasting room), 805-238-5957 (office)

Artisan: Paso Robles Pioneers

Everything has a beginning, and sometimes it takes passionate and dedicated people to forge ahead and create something new and great out of almost nothing.

For our first evening in Paso Robles, we were scheduled to dine at Artisan with three pioneers of the Paso Robles wine community. This would be our introduction to the history of Paso Robles and its wineries. I had done a bit of research about Artisan prior to my trip, and it had an excellent reputation so I was looking forward to dinner.

Artisan is the dream of two brothers, Michael Kobayashi (who works as the General Manager) and Chris Kobayashi (the Executive Chef). Chef Kobayashi creates seasonal menus, relying often on locally grown produce and foods, most being organic or sustainable. Their wine list features many Paso Robles wines, as well as top wines from other California regions. It is the type of restaurant I enjoy, and I anticipated some delicious fare.

There is an open kitchen area, which can be viewed by one of the dining areas. Open kitchens make me more confident about a restaurant, making it more difficult for them to conceal errors. You can watch them cook, see the care they take, how they work as a unit.

As you enter the restaurant, to the back you will see their wine cellar area, a walk-in cabinet where many local wines are displayed. It certainly adds to the ambiance of the restaurant. And I am seeing more and more of these wine cellars displayed in restaurants.

We sat towards the back of the restaurant, to the left of the wine cellar. A nicely elegant, but still casual, restaurant, this is the time of place you can go for a business dinner or a casual night out. Like the rest of Paso Robles, this is a laid back place and I liked its vibe.

During dinner, we would have some fascinating conversation with three local wine personalities. All three of their wineries were established in Paso Robles during the 1980s, noting that the Paso Robles AVA was only established in 1983. You also should realize that around 1990, there were less than 20 wineries in Paso Robles. So these three wineries were definitely some of the first in the region, and now each have more than twenty years of experience. They are the old veterans of the region.

As little as fifteen years ago, Paso Robles was considered essentially a dying cow town. But the last ten years, especially after the 2003 earthquake, have seen rapid and expansive growth. It is the wine community which has been behind much of the impetus for the resurrection of this community. Passion and dedication fueled this resurgence, wine makers showing the vast potential of the land and the wines that can be produced.

Above is Jason Haas of Tablas Creek Vineyard. Tablas Creek was established in 1989 with the purchase of 120-acres in west Paso Robles.

This is Justin Baldwin, of Justin Vineyards and Winery. In 1981, he and his wife, Deborah, purchased a 160 acre property in Paso Robles, planting 72 acres of vineyards in the following year. The terroir intrigued him. At that time, there were only about 8 wineries in the region, and only about 8000 people. Justin began with plantings of Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot and Cabernet Franc. Over the years, he has added some additional grape varieties.

This is Steve Lohr of J. Lohr Vineyards and Wines. J. Lohr started planting their vineyards in 1986, completing their winery in 1988.

All three men were personable and down to earth, excellent dining companions. They see the potential of Paso Robles and relish its more laid back ambiance. It is not like Napa, and they are fine with that. Paso seems to have a close-knit wine community, where the people are often friends, and willing to help each other. There seems much less competition here among each other. The camaradarie is compelling.

And this is Chef Chris Kobayashi, a young and passionate chef, who took a little time from the kitchen to chat briefly with us. His food spoke volumes about his skills and passion.

Our first course was Firestone Ale-Battered Smelts with frisee and malted vinegar tartar sauce. The smelts were from the Great Lakes region and they were quite good, with a light crunchy batter and without a fishy taste. This is a sustainable fish, and a nice alternative to endangered seafood.

The first wine of the evening was the 2008 Justin Sauvignon Blanc ($15), which had not yet been released. This wine had an alluring fruit aroma, with plenty of grapefruit and lemon on the palate. A very crisp and pleasant wine, it went well with the fish. This will be a nice summer wine.

The next course was a caesar salad of Windrose Farm Little Gems (baby head lettuce), romaine, and white anchovy. This was good, with fresh produce and shaved parmesan.

The wine for this pairing was the 2008 Tablas Creek Espirit de Beaucastel Blanc ($40), their flagship white wine. It is a blend of 65% Roussanne, 30% Grenache Blanc, and 5% Picpoul Blanc. This is a very interesting wine, with an aromatic and floral nose and a melange of flavors, including honey, spice, herbs, pear and vanilla. It is not a casual wine, but something more to savor slowly, to relish each sip. Yes, it is pricey but it is geared more for the wine lover willing to splurge on a fascinating white. Paso Robles seems to produce some stunning Rhone-style wines.

The third course was Barbecued Pork Short Ribs, with pan fried brussel sprouts, pickled onions, and garnet yams. The pork was Kurobuta from a farm in Idaho, and was quite tender and flavorful. The yams were tasty too, just the right firmness with a touch of sweetness. This dish was paired with two different wines, both from the same producer.

The 2006 J. Lohr Cuvee St. E. ($50) is intended to emulate the Grand Cru wines of St. Emilion from the Right Bank of Bordeaux. It is a blend of 58% Cabernet Franc, 36% Cabernet Sauvignon, 4% Merlot, and 2% Petit Verdot, and is only produced in good years. This dark red wine had an alluring nose of dark berries and spice. It was a big but smooth wine, with lush flavors of ripe plum, blueberry, mocha and spice. There was a lengthy and satisfying finish. An excellent wine for this dish.

The 2007 J. Lohr Estates Los Osos Merlot ($15) is from the Los Osos vineyard (which means "the bears"). It is a blend of 88% Merlot, 6% Malbec, 4% Petit Verdot, and 2% Cabernet Sauvignon. I was impressed with this wine, and think it is an excellent value for the price. The fruity smell was compelling and there was plenty of dark berry, plum and vanilla flavors on the palate. It was a smooth wine with some spicy notes and lots of character for a wine at this price point. Merlot can sometimes be simple and dull, but this shows how Merlot can shine, even at a value price.

The Grilled Hanger Steak came with cauliflower, carrots, aligot potatoes, and a bordelaise sauce. The steak was lean, tender and flavorful and the fresh veggies were quite good. Another excellent dish from the chef. Once again, we had two wines paired with the dish.

The 2007 Tablas Creek Espirit de Beaucastel ($50) is a blend of 44% Mourvedre, 29% Grenache, 21% Syrah, and 6% Counoise. The grapes are the best lots of the harvest, and the 2007 vintage was their best vintage ever. This was a sublime wine, one that words are inadequate to express properly. Blueberry, plum, black cherry, vanilla, spice, and violet all mesh harmoniously together. Smooth tannins, a lengthy finish, excellent balance. A top notch wine that is worth the price. Another Rhone-style stunner.

The 2007 Justin Savant ($45) is a blend of 62% Syrah, 34% Cabernet Sauvignon, and 4% Malbec. This is a big, bold and spicy wine. I enjoyed this wine and can't complain about any of the wines we tasted. Justin mentioned how difficult it is to sell Syrah, a sentiment which would be repeated by a few other wine makers in Paso Robles. I never thought Syrah was such a hard sell, but it has made me think more about the issue.

Dessert was Barley Wine Profiteroles with bittersweet chocolate and candied cacao nibs. The Barley Wine came from the Firestone Walker Brewing Company in Paso Robles. A delicious, sweet ending to the night.

Service was excellent, the conversation was stimulating, and this was a fine introduction to Paso Robles. I would recommend this restaurant, and you should definitely check out the wines I tasted. And after this dinner, I was raring to go, to experience the rest Paso Robles had to offer.

Artisan
1401 Park Street
Paso Robles, CA
Phone: 805-237-8084

Pasolivo: Olive Oil from Paso Robles

Does your olive oil taste like baby vomit? Yes, that is certainly a very strange question, but I will explain the relevance shortly.

As I mentioned yesterday, we had a Pasolivo olive oil tasting during our lunch at Thomas Hill Organics. You might not know but the history of olive oil in the San Luis Obispo region extends back to the 1700s when Spaniards planted olive trees at various missions. By the mid-1800s, there was a thriving olive oil industry there, and the industry continues to the present. There are currently over 25 olive oil producers in San Luis Obispo County.

Joeli Yaguda led us on our olive oil tasting and she was a fun and knowledgeable person. I sat next to her and she was an engaging conversationalist. Karen Guth began planting olive trees on her 140-acre ranch, Willow Creek, in 1996. Her son, Joshua Yaguda, learned the art of olive milling and Joeli, his wife, assists with their business, Pasolivo.

The ranch has over 55 acres planted with more than 9000 olive trees. There are a dozen olive types including: Ascolano, Coratina, Frantoio, Kalamata, Leccino, Lucca, Manzanillo, Mission, Moraiolo, Pendolino, and Sevillano. They have farmed organically for five years but do not possess any certification. In 2005, they imported a Pieralisi Major II press, a state of the art olive mill from Italy which has really assisted in production.

They currently produce five different olive oils, including:

**Pasolivo Extra Virgin Olive Oil, Tuscan Blend (a blend of Frantoio, Leccino, Pendolino, Moraiolo, and Lucca olives).
**California Blend Extra Virgin Olive Oil (a blend of Manzanillo and Mission olives)
**Meyer Lemon Flavored Olive Oil
**Lime Flavored Olive Oil
**Tangerine Flavored Olive Oil

They used to make the infusion oils with fruit peels but that became more difficult with their new pressing machine, so they now use distilled, organic citrus oils.

Now back to the baby vomit. Joeli shared with us a copy of an Olive Oil Tasting Wheel, which describes the terminology used to describe the smell and taste of olive oils. And one of those descriptors is baby vomit! Obviously it is a flaw, and if I ever tasted it in olive oil, I would never touch that brand again.

You may be familiar with the Wine Aroma Wheel, which was developed in the early 1980s. A similar item, the Mojet Wheel, was designed in 1993 to describe olive oil. It provided fifty different descriptors but that apparently was insufficient. Thus, Richard Gawel, of the Australian Olive Association Tasting Panel, created the Recognose Wheel, a more advanced version which has 72 descriptors, 25 which concern flaws. The descriptors were compiled by analyzing their occurrence in olive oil tasting notes and the experiences of top olive oil tasters.

So baby vomit must be a common enough flaw to have earned itself a spot on this wheel. Other flaws included bacon (how can anything bacon-flavored be a flaw?), cucumber, earthy and blue cheese. Who knew olive oil could be so complex?

We did a taste test of the Tuscan and California blends, using the blue glasses you can see in the top photo. We would first inhale, taking in the scent of the olive oils, and then taste it, swirling it around our mouths as if we were tasting wine. The Tuscan blend seemed more herbaceous, with some bitterness on the finish, while the California blend had more fruit in the taste, even hints of banana, and seemed less bitter on the finish.

I received a bottle of the Tuscan blend to take home, and have been using it, from cooking to simply dipping some fresh bread into it. It has a delicious freshness to it, and is comparable to many other olive oils I have tried from Italy and Spain. Next time you are considering buying some olive oil, give some consideration to those from Paso Robles.

And beware of baby vomit!