GreCo: Gyros & Loukoumades at the Seaport

I've long been a fan of Gre.Co (meaning Greece & Company) on Newbury Street, loving their fresh Gyros and Loukoumades. The Newbury Street location is small and intimate and now there is a new location of GreCo, in the Seaport region, and it is much larger and more spacious. You'll find the same delicious food there, but a few new items and even some wine and beer.

I recently attended a media preview of this new location, which is now open to the public. The restaurant is lengthy and spacious, with plenty of small tables, counter seating, and a few larger tables as well. It has a modern look and will soon have patio seating as well, so you can dine outside with a cooling breeze from the sea.

At one end of the restaurant is a large table, that is almost in its own room, giving some privacy to diners.

Around the corner from that large table, you'll find a quote on the wall from The Odyssey by Homer, "A guest never forgets the host who has treated him kindly."

Like an assembly line, you order at the counter and the various employees will out together your meal. Much of the menu is similar to what you'll find at Newbury Street, except there are a few new dishes. The Seaport locations still prepares its foods, marinating their meats for about 24 hours, using their own house-made marinades. The Pitas are cooked on the grill, ensuring they are fresh and hot.

The food menu is dominated by seven different types of Gyros, all which are served in a warm pita with tomatoes, onions and hand-cut potatoes. The seven Gyros (priced $8.50-$10.50) include the Pork (with tzatziki), Chicken (with honey mustard), Lamb (with tomato jam), Bifteki (ground beef with spicy whipped feta), Loukaniko (pork and leek sausage with mustard sauce), Veggie (squash fritter with lemon yogurt sauce), and Mushroom (braised mushrooms with Greek fava). As everything is made to order, you can also customize your own Gyro, choosing your own protein and sauce combination.

I'm partial to the tasty Lamb Gyro, which is was packed with plenty of tender and flavorful meat. The tomato jam adds nice acidity and a little sweetness to the gyro. The addition of the salty fries also enhanced the gyro. This is quality fast casual food.

As a slight variation, you can also have a Salad ($10.50) or Plate ($11.50), selecting your own protein and sauce combination, and each also comes with pita bread. The Plate also comes with a side. You can order a salad on its own, including the Horiatiki ($8.50), Cretan ($8.00), Mykonos ($8.00), and Kos ($9.00). There are also a small number of Soup & Sides, such as Avgolemono (egg lemon soup, $3.50) and Greek Slaw ($2.50).

One new item on their menu was the Greek Summer Gazpacho ($6), made with chilled tomato, onion, cucumber, red pepper, roasted pine nut and feta mousse. Refreshing and flavorful, with bright cucumber accents, I especially loved the hunk of feta in the soup, adding a briny edge to the soup. Highly recommended.

As for Sides, you can order the Homemade Dips, served with with Pita ($4), selecting Tzatziki, Spicy Whipped Feta, Charred Eggplant of Greek Fava. The Gre.co Fries ($4.5), hand-cut potatoes with feta, are addictive. The crisp fries, with a fluffy interior, are enhanced by the salty, creaminess of the feta.

Who wouldn't love Loukoumas, Greek donuts? You can even watch them making your Loukoumas for you! They come in five different flavors, $5-$6.50, including Classic (Greek honey, walnuts and cinnamon), Yaya’s (hazelnut praline, oreo cookies, powdered sugar), Bougatsa (custard creme, phyllo, cinnamon, powdered sugar), Lady Marmalade (fig marmalade, yogurt mousse, toasted almonds), and Choco Loco (white chocolate ganache, wafer crumble, cocoa powder).

The Bougatsa was a decadent treat, with the sweet and creamy custard, lightly crisp phyllo and hot donuts. This is the type of treat to make you forget about your diet.

The Classic remains a delicious option, the walnuts adding a nice crunchy texture to enhance the light and fluffy loukoumas.

GreCo has upped their beverage program, adding both alcoholic and non-alcoholic choices. For Coffee, you'll find Freddo Expresso, Freddo Cappucino and Frappe (Greek iced coffee). You'll also find non-alcoholic options like Greco-Jito (basil, cucumber & honey), Tsai (Greek mountain tea, honey, ginger & lemon), and Homer's Punch (watermelon, star anise, mint & lemon). The Greco-Jito was refreshing and tasty, an excellent summer drink.

For alcoholic options, they have a Greco “Opa Opa” Light Lager ($6), which is made exclusively for them, as well as a Seasonal Beer ($5.50). For wine, there are two options, a White and a Red, both from the Karavitakis Winery of Crete. The Karavitakis Little Prince White ($6.50) is a blend of about 65% Vilana and 35% Vidiano. This wine is bright and crisp, with notes of lemon, citrus and pear. A pleasant summery wine, perfect for sipping on the patio. The Karavitakis Little Prince Red ($8) is a blend of 65% Kotsifali and 35% Mandilari. Smooth and easy drinking, there is still depth to this wine, with pleasant black fruit flavors, including plum and black cherry. There is a freshness to this wine as well, and it paired very well with a lamb gyro. I'm especially pleased that both wines use indigenous Greek grapes, helping people to expand their palates and experience these delicious wines.

I suspect GreCo in the Seaport will do very well. It offers reasonably priced, delicious and quality fast casual food. The restaurant is aesthetically pleasing and is one of the better new options in the Seaport region. I know that when I'm in the Seaport, it will always be one of my top choices. And you can look forward to more locations of GreCo opening in other parts of Boston in the future.

Koshari Mama: Egyptian Street Food

"The Hindi word khicri or khicra is assumed to descend from the Sanskrit krsara...which meant a mixture of rice and peas. This idea of mixing lentils (or peas) has spread during this century to the Near East as well, where rice and lentil koshari is now a popular cheap meal in Egypt."
--Los Angeles Times, April 27, 1995

Last Thursday, I planned to visit the Stoneham Farmers Market so I checked their website to see if anything special was scheduled that day. I saw a new vendor, Koshari Mama, and once I checked out their website, I was intrigued, hoping to taste some of their food.  

Koshari Mama was founded by a mother/daughter team, Sahar Ahmed and Dina Fahim. Dina graduated from Boston University’s Culinary Program, and worked at a number of local restaurants, before deciding to go out on her own. She wanted to embrace her Egyptian heritage, and her mother was a natural partner for her new endeavor. Based in Lowell, they currently sell their products at a number of farmers markets, including Stoneham, Melrose, North Andover, Davis Square, and you can see their schedule on their website.

One of the main foods they produce is Koshari, an Egyptian street food. It is a hearty vegetarian/vegan dish composed of rice, lentils, pasta, and chickpeas, topped with a spicy tomato sauce and fried onions. Koshari is available as a Mini (8 oz) $3.00, Small (12 oz) $5.00, Large (16 oz) $8.00, and Egyptian Size (24 oz) $12.00. The dish is prepared in front of you and you can choose how hot of a sauce you want.

Though many sources state Koshari was created in the 19th century, its roots extend back at least several hundred, if not more, years before that time. It has become an inexpensive and very popular street food in Egypt. After tasting this Koshari, I can understand the appeal. It presents a delicious blend of flavors and textures, from the softer macaroni to the crunchy fried onions pieces. It had a certain nuttiness to it, as well as a nice spicy flavor from the sauce. I tried the Mini, just to get a taste of it first, and my only issue is that the cup was so full, it was tough to mix up all the ingredients without spilling them over the side.

I want more, and will be sure to get some the next time they come to the Stoneham Farmers Market, unless I see them at a different Farmers Market. I highly recommend you check out Koshari Mama! I'll also note that they sell a few other items too, such as their homemade Hummus, which was also quite tasty, with a strong garlic aspect and a hint of lemon.

"Kosheri (also spelled kosheree, kochary, kushari, and kochari) is the only menu item sold in some specialty restaurants in Egypt. There is a saying about this nourishing rice, wheat and bean dish: You can have anything you want to eat, as long as it's kosheri."
--The Record (NJ), November 24, 2004

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Friday, July 26, at 5pm, Davio’s Lynnfield will welcome Guest Sommelier Gary Parsons as he presents the wines of Honig Vineyard & Winery. Honig Vineyard was purchased in Rutherford, CA in 1964, and began producing wine in 1980. In 1984, at the age of 22, Michael Honig took over management of the vineyard and winery. With the help of a handful of family members and a staff of dedicated employees, what began as a small “garage” winery has today become a successful family enterprise, with everyone working collaboratively to run an inspiring and socially responsible business. While focused on producing high quality Cabernet Sauvignon and Sauvignon Blanc since the early 1980’s, the Honig family is committed to protecting the environment, developing their employees, and supporting their community.

Featured Wines:
2017 Honig, Sauvignon Blanc, Napa Valley $10 glass
2016 Honig Cabernet Sauvignon, Napa Valley $20 glass
Dinner reservations are recommended and can be made by calling 781-944-4810.

2) This summer, check out Rosé Thursdays at Davio’s Lynnfield. Each week, Davio’s will host a different Guest Sommelier for the evening to sample rosé wines from around the world. Known as the ever popular “summer water”, rosé is a type of wine that incorporates some of the color from the grape skins, but not enough to qualify it as a red wine. It may be the oldest known type of wine, as it is the most straightforward to make with the skin contact method. Rosé wines can be made still, semi-sparkling or sparkling and with a wide range of sweetness levels from highly dry Provençal rosé to sweet White Zinfandels and blushes. Rosé wines are made from a wide variety of grapes and can be found all around the globe.

Rosé Thursdays at Davio’s Lynnfield will run from July 11th through August 22nd starting at 5:00pm and reservations can be made by calling 781-944-4810.

Featured Wines
7/11 - 2018 Costaripa, “Rosamara”, Lombardy, Italy Glass $12 / Bottle $50
7/18 - 2018 Chateau d’Esclans, Whispering Angel, Cotes de Provence Glass $18 / Bottle $80
7/25 - 2018 Inman Family, “Endless Crush” Rose of Pinot Noir, Russian River Glass $16 / Bottle $70
8/1 - TBD
8/8 - TBD
8/15 - 2018 Bertani, “Bertarose”, Veneto, Italy Glass $14 / Bottle $60
8/22 - TBD

Hudson-Chatham Winery & the Joys of Baco Noir

"Among these wines, Baco Noir is the only eastern cheese partner. It is a full-bodied red from a grape of the same name, which makes it a 'varietal' wine. The grape is expected to have a great future in eastern winemaking."
--Chicago Tribune, November 3, 1968

Have you ever tasted a wine made from Baco Noir?

Baco Noir is a French hybrid grape, whose origin extends back to 1902, though it was initially called Baco 24-23. It didn't become known as Baco Noir until 1964 and very little is currently grown in France. In the early 1950s, the grape was planted in North America and currently you'll find it grown in various states as well as Canada. In the Hudson Valley of New York, you'll find one of Baco Noir's most ardent advocates, Carlo DeVito.

Carlo, with his wife Dominique, own the Hudson-Chatham Winery and you can read my prior article for background on the winery. The winery produces a number of different Baco Noir wines and I've enjoyed them in the past, especially the Baco Noir Old Vines. Recently, he sent me a media sample of the 2016 Hudson-Chatham "Block 3 North Creek Vineyard" Baco Noir and it didn't disappoint in the least.

Before I review this wine though, I wanted to highlight some intriguing historical items, found in old newspapers, concerning the some of the earliest mentions of Baco Noir grape in North America,

The earliest newspaper reference I found of a U.S. winery using this grape concerned the Pleasant Valley Wine Company, founded in 1860, which is said to be the oldest winery in the Finger Lakes region of New York. The Chicago Tribune, November 20, 1967, published an article about the winery, noting that in a few years they would market a Baco Noir varietal wine. They didn't have sufficient grapes yet for a varietal wine, but had been adding some Baco Noir to their Burgundy wine, sold under their Great Western label.

Interesting, the Princeton Bureau County Record (IL), November 25, 1968, presented some Thanksgiving recipes and wine recommendations, and Baco Noir was mentioned. "Non-conformists and red wine lovers find that a herb-stuffed turkey calls for the depth of flavor found only in a Baco Noir Burgundy or Chelois." However, apparently the recommendations came from the Pleasant Valley winery so the inclusion of Baco Noir shouldn't be a surprise.

The above advertisement was in the Nashua Telegraph (NH), December 12, 1968, noting the unique taste provided by the Baco Noir.

The Cincinnati Enquirer, March 14, 1969, presented a different advertisement, which seemed to indicate their Baco Noir varietal wine was now being sold, although it still stated "Burgundy" on the label. An article in the Chicago Tribune, July 25, 1969, seemed to confirm this, noting "Great Western has made varietal wines of some of its former generics, and hopefully they will drop the name 'burgundy,' which should be reserved for French wines,...as soon as Baco Noir burgundy...are better known." The article also states that Baco Noir is "destined for popularity."

The Chicago Tribune, July 24, 1970, published an article about the Great Western wines, commenting on the Baco Noir and Chelois grapes, "Both are interesting, both popular and growing more so." The Daily News (NY), October 22, 1970, then printed an article on the grapes of New York. It mentioned, "Before the hybrids, New York wines were less than glorious. Native American stocks and crosses grew well, but wines from them had a strange, wild taste." It then continued, "Main interest now centers on red wines like Baco Noir and Chelois...these are low-priced at less than $2 a bottle."

Baco Noir had already spread to other U.S. states, but the first mention of a state other than New York  producing a Bacon Noir wine was in The Times Herald (MI), April 14, 1971. It had an advertisement for Bronte's Baco Noir Wine, comparing it to a Burgundy, just as Great Western had done. The Fort Lauderdale News, March 15, 1972, also noted that an Ohio winery was producing a red table wine made from Baco Noir and Chelois.

The Democrat & Chronicle (NY), March 16, 1972, provided some information on grape production in the Finger Lakes during 1971. The wineries processed 66,242 tons of grapes, a 32% increase from the prior year. Only 40% of these grapes were used for the production of wine. French hybrids, including Baco Noir, totaled 6,716 tons, so only about 10% of total production.

Great Western's Baco Noir was becoming so popular, that the Chicago Tribune, March 16, 1972, noted the wines had to be allocated, or they would have been completely sold out. In only a few years, Baco Noir had captivated wine lovers.

Now, back to the 2016 Hudson-Chatham "Block 3 North Creek Vineyard" Baco Noir. Block 3 is planted with two varieties of Baco Noir, including the hearty and dark Finger Lakes variety and the French/Hudson Valley variety which produces a lighter wine. Some of the wine is aged for about six months in neutral oak barrels, and the final blend isn't fined or filtered.

Initially, I love that this wine is only 12% ABV, making it easier to enjoy multiple glasses. When so many other red wines have a 14-16% ABV, it is always a pleasant change to see a lower alcohol red. With a light red color, this wine possesses an appealing fruity nose with subtle hints of vanilla and spice. On the palate, it is smooth, delicious and easy drinking, but this isn't a simple wine but rather one with some interesting complexity. It also possessed bright cherry and raspberry flavors, subtle spice notes, a touch of vanilla, and excellent acidity. This is a versatile food wine, great for pizza to burgers, salmon to roast pork. Highly recommended.

If you haven't tasted a Baco Noir wine, then now is the time to try one. And if you can find Baco Noir from the Hudson-Chatham Winery, then I strongly encourage you to buy it.

Rant: A Tale of Two Buns

"The purpose of the sandwich... is to effectively deliver protein or other stuff into your mouth without a fork. Structure, texture, and proportion are as central to the success or failure of the sandwich as its taste. That may be the very best chopped liver, but if the rye bread surrounding it falls apart, you may as well eat it out of a fucking trough."
--Appetites: A Cookbook by Anthony Bourdain

This is a tale of two buns: one success, one failure. Anthony speaks the truth, that the structure of the bread is a significant aspect of a sandwich and if it falls apart, the sandwich is a failure.

Last week, a good friend from Minnesota came to visit Boston and I acted as a tour guide for part of his time while he was here. We visited several restaurants, with seafood being prominent, and the bread issue arose at two of the places we visited. To me, the main takeaway is that restaurants need to pay more attention to sandwich bread, and not just show concern for the fillings.

This is a picture of a successful sandwich, one where the bread is a rock star!

Cusser’s Roast Beef & Seafood, located within the Moon Bar of the Mooncusser Fish House, is open for lunch, from Monday to Friday. Their small menu offers Roast Beef Sandwiches and various seafood dishes, from Fish Tacos to Swordfish Souvlaki. My friend had their Fish & Chips, a delicious beer battered fish-of-the-day which was Striped Bass that day. An excellent, seasonal and more unique choice.

I opted for the North Shore-style Roast Beef Sandwich, which was as scrumptious as always. The roast beef was tender and flavorful, complemented by the tangy barbecue sauce. The roll, as I've mentioned before, is perfect. It was served warm and was soft and fresh, with the slight crunch of the seeds atop the roll. Honestly, the rolls you get at most North Shore roast beef joints aren't particularly interesting or memorable. This roll is a success on multiple levels, being a fine vehicle for the roast beef, and the ratio of bread to filling was also very good. The rolls are made daily by their talented pastry chef Katherine Hamilburg. When designing this sandwich, they spent lots of time creating the roll, more than any other aspect of the sandwich.

That dedication has paid off, as they now serve one of the best Roast Beef sandwiches in the area, and that is due, in large part, to their compelling roll. With a more ordinary roll, their sandwich probably wouldn't be as worthy of the accolades.

This is a picture of a failed sandwich, one with plenty of potential but where the bread was lacking.

Another one of our stops was at a well-known seafood restaurant, which receives raves for its Lobster Rolls. I opted for the Lobster Roll ($32), hot with butter, and it came on a toasted brioche roll. There was an ample portion of buttery lobster, and the meat was sweet and tender. It certainly had the potential to be a winner of a sandwich except there was a failure in the structure of the bread. Apparently, there was too much butter, which soaked through the soft roll, causing the middle of it to fall apart and making it difficult to eat as a sandwich. In the end, I had to use a fork to eat most of the lobster, and that shouldn't have happened.

I wanted a sandwich and at the price I paid, the roll shouldn't have failed.

Restaurants, pay attention to your buns! Don't make them an after thought. Put careful consideration into your choices as it can make or break your sandwiches. It doesn't matter how delicious the fillings, without good bread, the sandwich just won't succeed. Your choice of bread can even elevate your sandwich above many others which don't pay as much attention to their bread.

What sandwiches do you enjoy which are made even better because of the bread that is used?