Monday, August 5, 2024

2022 Mersel Red Velvet: A Natural Wine from Lebanon

Currently, there are escalating tensions in Lebanon, which could get involved in a wider conflict in the Middle East. Without delving into the politics of the region, I'll note that wine production in Lebanon has continued for many years, despite the volatility of the country. I've previously enjoyed a number of wines from Lebanon and recently tried a new wine to me, from a winery which was also new to me. 

According to the Mersel Wine website, "We are everyday people that support local farmers to make good Lebanese wine for everyone to enjoy!" The winery was cofounded by two women, who are wives and mothers, although I've been unable to locate their names online. The name of the winery comes from the region Maksar Mersel, the highest viticulture region in Lebanon. Their vineyards are organic, and managed in an "environmentally friendly manner." Their wines are unfiltered, unlined, and usually have little or no added sulfites. 

The winemaker at Mersel is Eddie Chami, who was born in Australia to Lebanese parents and around 2006 he relocated to Lebanon. He holds a degree in Viticulture and Enology from UC Davis, California.  "He is passionate about winemaking, as well as preserving and reviving the land of our ancestors and the winemaking techniques used many, many years ago...His passion is to develop wine using local Lebanese indigenous grape varieties but something not common locally.

The 2022 Mersel Red Velvet (about $25) is produced from 100% Cinsault, from ten year old vines. The organic vineyards are located at Deir El Ahmar in the Bekaa Valley, at an altitude of about 1,200m. With native yeasts, it was fermented in a sealed concrete tank and eventually underwent malolactic fermentation too. The wine was also unfiltered and unfined.

Even though it's a red wine, the winery recommends that it be served chilled, as you would a white wine, and I followed their suggestion. With a 13% ABV, the Red Velvet had a pleasant smell of red fruits with a touch of spice, and on the palate, it was light-bodied, dry, and with a hint of spritz. The flavors included strawberry, cherry, cranberry with subtle spice notes. Definitely a nice summer wine, especially with the chill to the wine. Easy drinking, but not overly simple. Would be a good wine with barbecue or even just pizza. Definitely worth checking out.

Thursday, August 1, 2024

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) This Monday, August 5, is National Oyster Day! The Tavistock Restaurant Collection group will sip, slurp and sup their way through this holiday, offering some bivalve values, including:

Abe & Louie’s (793 Boylston Street)
Oysters ($2 each)

Atlantic Fish Co. (761 Boylston Street)
Fresh, fried and Rockefeller oysters ($1 each)

Coach Grill (55 Boston Post Road, Wayland)
Oysters Rockefeller ($1 each)

Joe’s on Newbury (181 Newbury Street)
Street Fried Oyster Taco ($2 each)

Joe’s Waterfront (100 Atlantic Avenue)
Buck-a-Shuck ($1 each from 3-5pm)

2) The Tavistock Restaurant Collection group will also celebrate “Dine Out Boston” from August 4-17, including:

Abe & Louie’s: They will be dishing out a two-course prix fixe menu ($32) for weekday lunch. For starters, choose between New England clam chowder with bacon, potatoes and thyme, or a grilled Romaine salad with charred corn, red onion, confit tomato and avocado green goddess dressing. Entrée options include pan-roasted local blue fish with summer vegetable ratatouille or Abe’s prime cheeseburger, a special blend prime beef patty with cheddar and hand-cut fries. 

Atlantic Fish Co.: They will feature a weekday lunch menu ($32) with a choice of two appetizers – chilled summer corn soup with crispy rock shrimp and Aleppo pepper, or haddock ceviche with cherry tomato, red onion, citrus and crisp plantain – as well as two entrees: lobster cobb salad with baby greens, bacon, avocado, egg and red wine vinaigrette, or a blackened salmon grain bowl with farro, strawberry, whipped ricotta and lemon. Reservations available for weekday lunch.  

Coach Grill: They will offer a two-course dinner menu ($46) available Sunday through Friday. To start, there is an heirloom tomato gazpacho or a baby spinach salad with roasted peppers, portobello, goat cheese and balsamic. The entrees are pan-roasted Atlantic cod with herb breadcrumbs, glazed baby carrots and pea puree, or a 10oz NY strip with whipped potatoes and chimichurri. Reservations available for dinner Sunday through Friday. 

3) Join Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse and guest Céline Dublanchet of Château d’Esclans for a special Rosé Wine Dinner in the Seaport on Thursday, August 8th at 6:00 p.m. This event promises a memorable evening of fine dining and wine pairings, perfect for wine enthusiasts and food lovers alike. The five-course meal will be complimented with five rosé wine pairings.

Benvenuto
Duxbury Oysters, Rosé Granita
Tuna Tartare Taco
Burrata, Fig, Hot Honey Brioche
2023 Château d’Esclans ‘Whispering Angel’ Rosé

Antipasto
Tuna Crudo, Salmon Caviar, Almonds, Creme Fraiche, Citrus
2021 Château d’Esclans Côtes de Provence Rosé

Farinaceo
Hand-Rolled Potato Gnocchi, Maine Lobster, Peas, Limoncello Butter
2021 Château d’Esclans Côtes de Provence Les Clans Rosé

Carne Del Giorno
55 Day Prime Aged Strip Steak, Corn Potato Cake, Zucchini Ribbons, Chimichurri
2021 Château d’Esclans Garrus Rosé

Dolce 
Rosé- Lemon Semifreddo, Almond Dacquoise, Rosé Wine
2022 The Beach by Whispering Angel, Vin de Provence Rosé

COST: $150 per adult include a five-course meal with wine pairings. Tickets should be purchased in advance.  Each guest will receive a signed 375 mL bottle of Whispering Angel Rosé to take home, adding a personal touch to this experience. All attendees must be 21 years or older with a proper ID. 

Monday, July 29, 2024

Rant: My Heretical Opinion: Duck Wings > Chicken Wings

Happy National Chicken Wings Day! This food holiday began in 1977 and is dedicated to celebrating the chicken wing, in all its varieties. However, I'm going to offer a heretical opinion today. 

As a general rule: Duck Wings are much better than Chicken Wings.

Unfortunately, chicken wings get all the attention and they're available in many, many restaurants, most often as an appetizer. There are even numerous restaurants that specialize in chicken wings, offering them with a variety of sauces, as well as with or without bones. Chicken wings are a popular snack for watching sporting events, especially as they are easily made at home. 

However, how many restaurants do you know that serve duck wings? It's likely that you don't know any, or maybe just one or two.  I'm only aware of a handful in the local area that serve them, and most often just as specials. When was the last time you prepared duck wings at home? Again, most people have probably never done so. Duck wings just don't get the proper respect they deserve. There isn't even a National Duck Wings Day! 

Part of the reason for the ubiquity of chicken wings is likely that they are usually inexpensive. I've seen some restaurants and bars offer wings for as little as 25 cents each. In addition, about 9 billion chickens are killed annually for food, so there's plenty of available wings. Only about 31 million ducks are killed each year, roughly equivalent to 0.3% of the amount of chickens.

Chicken is generally a mild meat, and the sauce used on the wings is vitally important. Some might say that chicken wings are essentially a rather bland vehicle for the sauce. The most compelling, and tastiest part of the chicken wing might be its skin.

Duck wings on the other hand are abundant with flavor. The taste of the duck, with its crispy skin, rich flavors and bit of gaminess, are compelling. It is definitely not a mild or bland meat, and that is why they are better than chicken wings. Any sauce and seasonings on the duck wings is intended to complement the taste of the duck, and is not as important as it is with chicken wings.

Duck wings may have less meat than chicken wings, and might be a little tougher if not cooked properly, but neither of those is reason enough to choose chicken wings over duck wings. I would much rather have less meat, if it has more flavor, than an abundance of much less flavorful meat. I've eaten plenty of chicken wings over the years, but they rarely are especially memorable. I've eaten far less duck wings, only due to their lack of availability, but they are usually memorable.

I've enjoyed some of my favorite Duck Wings at A Tavola, in Winchester, which occasionally has Crispy Duck Confit Wings as a special appetizer. They are absolutely delicious, with crispy skin atop moist, tender and flavorful meat. 

It bears repeating: Duck Wings are much better than Chicken Wings.

Thursday, July 25, 2024

Thursday Sips & Nibbles: Omakase at XOXO Sushi Bar

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) Chef Kegan Stritchko
 is preparing to unveil his highly anticipated Omakase experience at XOXO Sushi Bar in Chestnut Hill. You should check out my previous review of this excellent sushi restaurant: XOXO Sushi Bar: An Impressive Spot.

The concept of omakase – which translates to “I leave the details up to you” – allows a chef to select an intriguing and delicious menu for his guests. Chef Stritchko’s omakase feature the use of premier imported fish from Japan as well as their in-house dry-ager (the first of its kind in Boston) and a technique in which Stritchko holds expertise.

Starting on July 30, the 16-course Omakase will be available, showing the creativity of Chef Stritchko. Featuring fresh and luxurious seafood options, sourced internationally and domestically, Chef Stritchko meticulously crafts each course. From the shores of Japan to the waters of Maine, Duxbury, and Gloucester, his team presents each course to six guests seated at the omakase counter providing an up-close and personal view of the culinary artistry. The experience is limited to only one seating on Tuesdays and Wednesdays with two options – the 16-course culinary adventure with or without a menu of eight wine, sake and whisky pairings – with a finale of dessert.

Cost: Omakase experience: $195 per guest. Omakase experience with drink pairings: $390 per guest
Reservations are required via Resy. For more information, please visit their website: at XOXO Sushi Bar

Wednesday, July 24, 2024

The Origins of Chicken Fingers: Traditional & Chinese

This Saturday, July 27, is National Chicken Finger Day! Back in 2010, Raising Canes invented this holiday to celebrate the chicken finger, which is their specialty. 

When were chicken fingers invented? Did they originate in Chinese-American restaurants? Let's explore these questions, and others, and seek out its true origins. 

Many sources claim that chicken fingers, and usually referred to as chicken tenders, were invented at the Puritan Backroom restaurant in Manchester, New Hampshire, back in 1974. However, other sources note that there are other contenders for their invention. Nowadays, there are technical differences between chicken fingers and tenders, as fingers can be made from any part of the chicken breast while tenders must come from a muscle located beneath the breast which is called the pectoralis minor or inner filet. Back in 1974, when the term "chicken tenders" was first used, that difference didn't exist. 

There were multiple references, extending at least back to the 1940s and earlier, in newspapers to "chicken fingers" although they failed to mentioned whether they were fried chicken fingers or not. So, it's difficult to accept those references as applicable to our inquiries. 

However, 1966 was a key year in the history of chicken fingers, as there's mention of fried chicken fingers in multiple states. The Standard-Speaker (PA), February 12, 1966, published an advertisement for Mussari’s Sun Valley Restaurant which offered a dish of "French Fried Chicken Fingers with spaghetti pasta, tossed salad, rolls and butter." This clearly predated the Puritan's claim. 

The Valley News (NH), April 2, 1966, had an ad for The Green Lantern Inn, located in Hanover, which offered “Fried Chicken Fingers” in a Supreme Sauce. So, we already find fried chicken fingers in New Hampshire, at least 8 years before their alleged invention by Puritan. 

The Daily Item (MA), August 12, 1966, ran an article about the Chickland Barbecue in Saugus, and one of their specialities included a “chicken finger plate.”  The Birmingham Post-Herald (AL), April 25, 1968, detailed a buffet dinner with “chicken fingers (strips of chicken breasts).” 

The Houston Chronicle (TX), May 28, 1970, provided the above recipe, maybe the first printed recipe in a newspaper. This was published four years before the alleged invention by Puritan. 

With all of these references, it's absolutely clear that Puritan didn't invent chicken fingers. At best, they coined the term "chicken tenders" and helped popularize them. However, I'll also add that all of the newspapers I've reviewed from the 1970s didn't mention Puritan and its alleged invention of chicken tenders.

Now, all of these chicken fingers appear to have been fried as normal, like regular fried chicken, and what we now find at places like Raising Canes, Kentucky Fried Chicken, and many other fast casual fried chicken spots. I'll refer to them as traditional chicken fingers. 

However, Chinese Chicken Fingers usually are prepared differently, with a thicker fried batter, and an amount of air between the batter and the chicken. Such an air pocket generally doesn't exist in traditional chicken fingers. Chinese chicken fingers bear similarity to the preparation for Chinese fried shrimp, often found on Pu-Pu platters. I'll also note that sometimes Chinese chicken fingers are simply known as "Golden Fingers."

So when did Chinese chicken-fingers first appear? Interestingly, they too predate's Puritan's alleged invention in 1974.

Interestingly, the first reference I found to "golden fingers" dealt with shrimp. The Florida Today (FL), January 18, 1970, published an ad for the Hong Kong Restaurant which offered “Golden Finger Shrimp.”

The first documented reference to "golden fingers," which likely was chicken, was from 1971. The Portsmouth Herald (NH), April 24, 1971, had an ad, pictured above, mentioning free “Fried Golden Fingers”with dinner. 

The Transcript-Telegram (MA), May 17, 1972, also had an advertisement for a Chinese restaurant offering “Golden Fingers.”
    
And the first mention of "chicken fingers" came in 1972. The Post-Star (NY), September 12, 1972, published an advertisement for the Peking Restaurant. The ad mentioned their lunch menu and special combination dishes, including the "No.4 Chicken Fingers, Chow Mein and Fried Rice."

Now, golden fingers/chicken fingers certainly could have existed prior to 1971, but they didn't apparently garner any mention in the newspapers until 1971. 

Curiously, the Biddeford-Saco Journal (ME), November 27, 1972, printed an ad for Ying’s Chinese restaurant, mentioning their lunch menu and special combination dishes. This included the "No.4 Chicken Fingers, Chow Mein and Fried Rice." It's an unusual coincidence that two restaurants, in different states, offered the exact same lunch combination. And in fact, all seven of the lunch combinations were the same. It seems likely that the same owners might have been connected to both of these restaurants.  

The Boston Globe (MA), June 17, 1973, discussed the two new Ocean Kai restaurants, one in Hingham and one in South Boston. They offered appetizers including egg rolls, pork strips, barbecued spare ribs and “the most unusual fried chicken fingers.” This seems to imply that chicken fingers might have been a relatively new dish in local Chinese restaurants.  

There were more local mentions of chicken fingers, and during the 1970s, many of the newspaper references would be for Massachusetts. The Boston Herald (MA), December 25, 1973, noted that the Hong Kong restaurant in Harvard Square served chicken fingers. The Boston Globe (MA), June 9, 1974, discussed the famed Kowloon Restaurant, in Saugus, and that they also served fried chicken fingers. 

Texas chicken fingers! The Houston Chronicle (TX), August 30, 1974, mentioned that a Houston Chinese restaurant offered, “An imaginative pu pu platter forms an appetizer tray of ribs, chicken fingers, shrimp and rumaki.” This is the first mention of a connection between chicken fingers and pu pu platters. 

In my prior article, Origins of the Pu-Pu Platter, I noted that the first mentions of the contents of Pu-Pu platters were from the 1950s. One menu stated it included only Fried Shrimp, Egg Roll, Won Ton and Spareribs while another menu mentioned it included Tim Sam (dumplings), Shrimp Vela (fried shrimp with coconut), Egg Rolls, Barbecued Spare Ribs, and Rumaki. In 1961, Bob Lee's Islander, located in Boston, served Pu-Pu Platters "heaped with shrimp puffs, fried won-ton, rumaki, barbecued spare ribs, fried shrimp and barbecued chicken wings,...”

As we can see, chicken fingers weren't initially included in these early Pu-Pu platters. The closest item were the fried shrimp, which were fried in a similar batter to what would eventually be used for chicken fingers. Eventually, chicken fingers would become a staple in many Pu-Pu platters but that would take time.

The Philadelphia Inquirer (PA), October 6, 1974, printed a Chinese restaurant review, noting their Pu Pu Platter had “golden fingers (chicken breasts rolled in batter).”    

Two more Golden Finger mentions. The Nashua Telegraph (NH), February 13, 1975, printed a Chinese restaurant ad, mentioning "golden fingers" while the Rapid City Journal (SD), September 19, 1975, also printed a Chinese restaurant ad, mentioning “Golden Finger.

The Evening Gazette (MA), February 2, 1976, published a restaurant ad, noting, “Deep Fried Chicken Fingers. Served with white rice and tangy sweet n’ sour sauce.” This is the first mention of the pairing of fingers and a sweet and sour sauce, which would eventually become a norm. The Sun (MA), September 16, 1976, discussed the Chow Chow Cup restaurant in Chelmsford, noting it offered “chicken fingers topped with the tangiest sweet and sour sauce this side of Peking.” 

And The Jewish Advocate (MA), October 7, 1976, in an ad for the Diamond Head restaurant, offered a dinner special with chicken fingers, egg rolls, spareribs, fried rice, chicken chow mein and pepper steak.  

More mentions outside Massachusetts. The Daily Camera (CO), October 11, 1976, ran an ad for the  McDuck’s restaurant which offered “Sweet & Sour Chicken Fingers” which were “chicken fingers fried in tempura batter, and served with rice and a tempting sweet & sour sauce.” The Playground Daily News (FL), December 16, 1976, had an ad for Miss Chen Authentic Chinese Foods, which sold appetizers like chicken fingers, eggrolls, fried wonton and Formosa meatballs.  

The Clarion-Ledger (MS), January 2, 1977, published a Chinese restaurant ad, noting their Pu Pu Platter came with egg roll, BBQ spare ribs, Chinese roast pork, braised chicken wings, and chicken fingers. The St. Paul Daily Press (MN), March 20, 1977, had an ad for the Bali-Hai, a Polynesian-Chinese restaurant, with a dinner special of Chicken Fingers, Porkstrips, Chow Mein, and Fried Rice. The Transcript-Telegram (MA), September 30, 1977, had a Chinese restaurant ad offering a Pu Pu platter with “golden fingers.”

As an aside, it's interesting to note that the Indianapolis Star (IN), October 2, 1977, briefly mentioned that, “The latest British delicacy, rivaling fish and chips in popularity….is ‘chicken fingers’ made of chopped, breaded and deep-fried chicken.” Did chicken fingers actually originate in England? That's an issue I need to research more.   

The Plain Dealer (OH), February 3, 1978, presented a Chinese restaurant ad, which mentioned their “golden fried finger.” The News-Herald (OH), March 10, 1978, had a Chinese restaurant review, which noted a “fried-chicken type dish called Golden Fingers.

The St. Paul Dispatch (MN), June 29, 1978, noted the grand opening of the Tahitian Room and Aloha Lounge, which served a Pu-Pu platter of chicken fingers, shrimp, beef teriyaki, egg rolls, and spare ribs. 
The Post-Star (NY), September 22, 1978, had a Chinese restaurant ad which offered “golden finger” while the Standard-Speaker (PA), September 30, 1978, also had a Chinese restaurant ad, but offering “golden fingers” on their Pu Pu platter. 

The Star Tribune (MN), February 1, 1979, also mentioned the Bali Hai restaurant again, noting they served, “Chicken Fingers, pieces of white meat coated in batter and deep-fat fried—terrific with the sweet and sour sauce” The Muncie Evening Press (IN), October 26, 1979, briefly mentioned a Chinese restaurant that had Chicken Fingers as an appetizer. The Penascola New Journal (FL), January 11, 1980, stated that traditional Chinese dishes in the area including chicken fingers. 

So, we see that the history of Chinese Chicken Fingers/Golden Fingers extends back at least to 1971 and that they were not just a Massachusetts dish, but we have little evidence of the reasons why they were created. As they are similar to Chinese fried shrimp, it's possible that shrimp was becoming more expensive (which it was during that time period), and that chicken was a less expensive substitute. Second, the popularity of fried chicken, and the creation of chicken fingers at least as far back as 1966, may have motivated Chinese restaurants to capitalize on that growing popularity. And maybe, chicken appealed more to children than shrimp, so this was a way to get more families to dine at Chinese restaurants. 

What is your favorite place for traditional chicken fingers? What is your favorite restaurant for Chinese chicken fingers?

(Revised/expanded as of July 26, 2024, to add references about "golden fingers.")