Etsu: An Intriguing Japanese Gin With Yuzu

After their great success with Whiskey, it's starting to look like that the Japanese now want to master Gin. 

What is Gin? Under the Code of Federal Regulations, Chapter 27: Alcohol, Tobacco & Firearms, Part 5--Labeling and Advertising of Distilled Products, in Subpart C--Standards of Identity for Distilled Spirits, section 5.22(c), it states: “Gin” is a product obtained by original distillation from mash, or by redistillation of distilled spirits, or by mixing neutral spirits, with or over juniper berries and other aromatics, or with or over extracts derived from infusions, percolations, or maceration of such materials, and includes mixtures of gin and neutral spirits. It shall derive its main characteristic flavor from juniper berries and be bottled at not less than 80° proof."

Juniper, a crucial ingredient in Gin, has been revered for at least two thousand years for medicinal purposes. Around the 16th century, it would be the Dutch who would finally distill a juniper-flavored alcohol, which they called Genever, creating a spirit that was intended to be something other than a medicine. Around the 1690s, Genever began to be exported to England and it quickly become the most popular spirit, especially with the lower classes, and it was renamed gin.

However, besides juniper, the regulations are very loose as to what other botanicals and ingredients can be added to Gin. This gives much leeway to producers to create their own unique gin blends, and also allows for producers to use more local ingredients, giving a sense of place to their gin. This likely doesn't quite rise to the level of terroir, but can be fascinating, and help anchor certain types of gins to specific locations.

As I often said, I'm very particular about gin as I dislike those with an overly strong juniper taste, far too piney for my preferences. I feel that the other botanicals get lost in those gins, vastly dominated by the juniper. I much prefer gin which has a more balanced melange of botanicals, and more and more of those styles of gin are being created.

Although the Japanese have been making gin for over 80 years, it didn't start making a mark until 2016, when the new Ki No Bi Distillery in Kyoto claimed to have made the first artisanal gin in Japan. Since then, a number of other Japanese artisanal gins have been produced by other distilleries, though it is still in its infancy and few brands can be found locally. These gins have been using numerous local ingredients, setting them apart as clearly Japanese, including shiso, yuzu, sandro pepper, green tea, cherry blossoms and more.

Recently, while perusing the shelves at Bin Ends, I discovered a bottle of Etsu Gin ($39.99), a Japanese gin, and I had to buy a bottle to experience it. Earlier this year, Horizon Beverage became the first distributor in the U.S. to sell this gin. Etsu is made on the island of Hokkaido, the most northern prefecture in Japan. The distillery is located in the city of Asahikawa, though I've had difficulty pinpointing the specific distillery. From my own research, there appears to be only a single distillery in Asahikawa, currently owned by  the Oenon Holdings, Inc., and it produces a range of Sake, Shochu, liqueurs and other spirits. Though I haven't seen a direct connection between Oenon and Etsu, it seems probable there is a connection. 

The label states "Etsu" means "pleasure." though it can also be translated as "jubilation" or "joy." Etsu Gin uses a base spirit of a 100% cane neutral spirit and its ingredients include yuzu, bitter orange, licorice, coriander, angelica root, tea leaves, and maybe more. The ingredients are macerated for about 24 hours and distilled in a copper still with a swan neck. It is diluted down to a 43% ABV, with water from the Taisetsu Mountains and charcoal filtered. Each day, they only produce a single 500 liter batch.

With a clear color, the smell of juniper dominates the nose though I could detect some other fainter smells, such as yuzu and floral elements. On the palate, the botanicals were much more balanced and the juniper took a more supporting role rather than the lead. The yuzu took a more prominent role, providing tart citrus notes, while there were other flavors of green tea, pepper, and lime, with floral notes. Overall, it presents a complex palate, with other intriguing flavors flitting back and forth across your palate. This is definitely the style of gin I love and the Etsu was impressive. Highly recommended!

I could probably drink this simply on the rocks, though it also works well in a classic Gin & Tonic. It was also tasty when combined with some San Pellegrino Sparkling Prickly Pear & Orange. If you love Gin, or simply want to experience something different, then seek out Etsu Gin.