Grgić Vina: From Croatia to California, and Back!

You're probably already familiar with the renowned Grgich Hills Estate, located in Napa Valley, California. Maybe you've previously enjoyed their Cabernet Sauvignon or Chardonnay. Maybe you're also aware that "Mike" Grgich, when he was the wine maker at Chateau Montelena, produced a Chardonnay which took first place at the famed Judgment of Paris in 1976.

However, you might not know that Miljenko “Mike” Grgich was born in Croatia, and has also established a winery in that country. Miljenko left Croatia for California during the 1950s, returning to Croatia in the 1990s. During my recent visit to Croatia, I stopped at Grgić Vina, tasting their two wines, both made from indigenous Croatian grapes.

Miljenko Grgich was born in the village of Desne, located on a small hill on the Dalmatian coast. He was the youngest of eleven children, and his family, for at least three generations were winemakers. Miljenko was involved in wine from a young age, stomping on grapes as a child, and in 1949, he entered the University of Zagreb, as preparation for a career as a winemaker. While in school, he met a professor from Napa Valley, where the California wine industry was at its beginning stages. This intrigued Miljenko, who decided he wanted to move to the U.S.

The journey to the U.S. wasn't direct though. First, he spent a year in Germany and then moved to Canada, spending two years there, working in a lumber mill. Miljenko had a relative in the U.S., a priest, and finally, in 1958, Miljenko ended up in the Napa Valley, when there were only 11 wineries located at that time. He worked at the Mondavi winery and others as well, especially intrigued by the wine technology found there which didn't exist yet in Croatia. In 1971, Miljenko became the wine maker at Chateau Montelena.

After his success in the Judgment of Paris, Miljenko founded, in 1977, Grgich Hills with a partner, Austin Hills, of the Hills Bros. Coffee family. In 2006, the name of the winery was changed to Grgich Hills Estate, reflecting that their wines were now produced only from estate grown grapes. They now own 366 acres, across five vineyards, producing about one million bottles under 19 different labels.

In 1991, Miljenko returned to Croatia, after its declaration of independence, journeying to the Pelješac peninsula. Five years later, Miljenko, his daughter, Violet Grgić and his nephew Ivo Jeramaz, established Grgić Vina in Trstenik on Pelješac. The objective was to produce wines from two indigenous grapes, Pošip and Plavac Mali. Miljenko is currently 96 years old, and interestingly, is still far better known in the U.S. and Europe, rather than in his native Croatia. The picture above is an outside view of their winery.

Grgić Vina has a maximum production capacity of 60,000 bottles, but they haven't reached that maximum yet in any year. They don't own any vineyards of Pošip, but purchase them from vineyards on the island of Korčula, where that grape originated. They own 2.5 acres of organically grown Plavac Mali, generally harvesting a ton of grapes, and purchase about another five tons of grapes from the Dingač region, where Plavac Mali is quite famed. Their main market for their wines are the restaurants and wine shops of Croatia, and they send only a small percentage to their California winery to sell there. Unfortunately, about five years ago, a wildfire spread through the hills, damaging the winery and destroying about 25,000 bottles. They are working on constructing a deeper wine storage room, to prevent such an occurrence again.

The 2018 Grgić Pošip is produced from 100% Pošip, from grapes on the island of Korčula. The grapes are harvested from 5am-7am, and brought by boat to Pelješac. At the winery, the grapes are immediately crushed and pressed, and they are cool fermented in stainless steel. About 30% of the wine is aged in used French oak for 3-6 months, and then it is blended back with the wine in the stainless steel. This vintage has a 13% ABV, though usually the wine is closer to 14.5% ABV and the 2019 vintage should be 14% ABV.

This was quite a complex Pošip, with a rich and creamy body, and a fascinating melange of flavors, including lemon, pineapple, and green apple, along with a touch of salinity, a backbone of minerality and plenty of crisp acidity. A well balanced wine with a lengthy and pleasing finish. This is a white wine with aging potential, and it would pair well with seafood to light chicken dishes. Highly recommended!

The 2017 Grgić Plavac Mali is made from 100% Plavac Mali, a grape that has intrigued Miljenko for many years. While in California, Miljenko felt that Zinfandel and Plavac Mali shared similarities, and might even be the same grape. Eventually, DNA testing would determine that Zinfandel was actually the Croatian grape Tribidag, and it was one of the parents of Plavac Mali. This wine is fermented with natural yeast, and is aged for 12-15 months in mostly French oak, though this was their first year using some Hungarian oak, which gives more power to the wine. They only use their barrels for three years, and will soon replace their 2016 barrels.

With a 15.5% ABV, this is a powerhouse of a wine, and we were told it really needs 4-5 years in the bottle, and to be decanted for at least an hour. On the nose, it evidences black fruit and herbs, and on the palate, there are prominent black cherry and blackberry flavors, with some smoky notes and a subtle herbal aspect. The tannins are big, though not overwhelming, there's good acidity, and it has a lingering finish. It probably would benefit from additional aging, though it still can be enjoyed now. This wine would be best with a hearty dish, from a juicy steak to a thick piece of tuna.

It's great to see a famed wine maker return to his roots, and establish a winery promoting the indigenous grapes of Croatia. It's a family operation, one which will continue past Miljenko “Mike” Grgich, though hopefully he has a number of good years still left in his life. He has lead the way, made his mark in the international wine world, and his legacy shall continue, in both California and Croatia.