Zagreb: Bornstein Wine Bar & Shop (Part 5)

On my first day in Croatia, in the city of Zagreb. after strolling down Tkalčićeva Street and dining at Agava Restaurant, I ended my evening at the Bornstein Wine Bar & Shop, which was just down the street, on Kaptol, from my Bed & Breakfast. I wasn't planning on staying too long here, just long enough to check out the place and peruse their wine selections, but I ended up at the wine bar for hours, having lots of fun, meeting new people, and sampling some excellent Croatian wines. And I returned there the next day too, for a #Winelover tasting event.

The Bornstein Wine Bar & Shop is the oldest wine store in Croatia, currently owned by Ivan and Doris Srpek, both who I met on my visits to this shop. Ivan, who I had the most interaction with, is from Australia and is very personable, helpful and knowledgeable. He even sought out a wine I was interested in from his colleagues at other shops and elsewhere. Ivan is certainly an important reason why I chose to hang out at the wine bar for several hours on my first night. Doris was very personable as well and they seemed to work well together as a team.

One of the attractions of the wine bar & shop is its 200 year-old arched basement, giving it a sense of history and a charming ambiance. In 2015, Ivan and Doris transformed over half of the basement into a wine bar. At the wine bar, you can sample wines, accompanied by snacks, if you so desire, choosing specific wines or one of their wine flights. They can also organize private tasting events for you, including wine dinners. It's a versatile area, and while I sat at the wine bar, I met a few people who also were tasting there, surprisingly meeting a couple people also from the U.S. We laughed and drank, and it was a great way to spend a Friday evening.

The wine shop is stocked with plenty of Croatian wines, from all different regions, and includes lots of fascinating choices. As you look around, you never know what you might find, but you're sure to find something that appeals to your preferences. If you're adventurous, there is much to experience and intrigue you. For example, the Vina Belje Grasevina wines above are from 1959, maybe some of the oldest Croatian wines available! A bottle will cost you roughly $750-$900 US.

Most of the Croatian wines are separated by region, such as Dalmatia and Slavonia.

More Croatian wines!

The wine shop also sells wine from other countries and regions around the world, though their primary focus is Croatian wine.

Besides wine, there's a variety of gourmet foods, including local cheeses, truffles, truffle oil, meats, and more. You can buy a bottle of wine and some food to take home and enjoy at your leisure.

And they also sell local Olive Oil, such as the famed Chiavalon Olive Oil. I actually bought home some of this olive oil and it's an excellent product.

During my time at the Bornstein wine bar on Friday evening, I tasted a number of diverse wines, and all were delicious and interesting. Ivan made all of the selections and he chose extremely well. The evening began with the NV Šember Pjenušac Brut, produced by a family-owned winery with about 6 hectares of vineyards in the Plešivica region, which I previously noted is an area famous for their Sparkling Wines. Pjenušac means "sparkling wine." The Šember winery first began making bubbly in 1997, using the Méthode Champenoise. They make at least three different Sparkling Wines, and this Brut is produced from a blend of Chardonnay, Welschriesling, and Plavec Žuti. The wine spent about three years aging on the lees.

At 12.5% ABV, this wine has a fine golden color, with plenty of tiny bubbles, and an appealing nose of toast, citrus, and peach. On the palate, it is crisp and fresh, with a beautiful elegance and a complex blend of flavors, including green apple, peach, and brioche. With a lingering and pleasant finish, this is another fine example of the quality Sparkling Wines being made in the Plešivica region.

From another family winery, located in the Istria region, the 2018 Cossetto Prima Luce is produced from 100% Malvazija Istarska, an indigenous grape that is the second most planted white grape in Croatia. With a 13% ABV, this was a fascinating, complex and delicious wine, with plenty of acidity and intriguing herbal flavors. There were bright, though more subtle, citrus notes, an extremely lengthy finish, and a touch of spice. Its unique and appealing taste made it a stand out.

Next up were two wines from Ahearne Vino, owned by Jo Ahearne, a Master of Wine and winemaker, and the winery is located on the Croatian island of Hvar. Ahearne has worked at wineries across the globe, and started producing wines in Croatia with the 2014 vintage, moving herself to Hvar in 2016. Her Croatian wines have been receiving many raves, and now I understand the reasons why.

The Ahearne Wild Skins is made from a blend of three indigenous grapes Kuč, Bogdanuša, and Pošip. The Bogdanuša and Kuč are harvested from vineyards in the cooler northern part of Hvar while the Pošip is from a vineyard on the southern side. Only ambient yeast is used, and there is extended skin contact. This was a "wow" wine, an impressive and complex wine which has ended up as one of my favorite wines during my entire time in Croatia. Its intriguing melange of flavors included notes of candied orange, honey, apricot, and a savory herbal element. This is something to slowly savor, to enjoy each fascinating taste and all that can be found within it. Each sip brings something different to your palate. Highly recommended!

The 2014 Ahearne Plavac Mali South Side, made from 100% Plavac Mali, uses only grapes from the best sites on southern hills. The wine has aged for about 18 months in used French oak with a little Slavonian oak. With a 14% ABV, the nose is appealing with aromas of black fruits and herbs. On the palate, the wine also presented with a complex melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black berry, intriguing herbal notes, and a hint of chocolate. The tannins were silky, the finish lingered and lingered, and the wine was well balanced. Another winner from Jo Ahearne.

The 2013 Kairos Cuvee is produced by a winery near the coastal town of Trogir in Dalmatia. The wine is a blend of 40% Plavac Mali, 30% Merlot, 20% Cabernet Sauvignon, with 10% Syrah and Tempranillo. The wine was aged for 24 months in Croatian and French barrique, 50% new & 50% old.  It is then further aged for another 1 year in stainless steel tanks and then six months more in the bottle. This is a big and bold wine, yet with restraint, and nicely integrated tannins. It's full bodied and rich, with lots of black fruit flavors, some red fruit notes, touches of vanilla and plenty of spice. Though it contains plenty of international grapes, it still had its feet strongly in Croatia.

If you visit Zagreb and love wine, then you need to make a stop at the Bornstein Wine Bar & Shop. It's a cool place to buy Croatian wine, and you'll find a huge selection here, including numerous rarities, and Ivan and Doris can help you navigate the choices. It's also a cool place to stop by to taste wine, to experience delicious Croatian wines. You can easily sit at the wine bar for a few hours, and never realize how long you've actually been there. Such a jovial and friendly ambiance, and it earns a hearty recommendation from me.