Williams & Humbert Canasta Cream Sherry With Pear & Blue Cheese Crostata

"Amorosos are smooth, sweet olorosos that justify their name, which in Spanish, means loving. But the name of the wine has nothing to do with amor; it is that of a famous vineyard which was noted for such wines. The name is still sometimes used owing to its beauty, though sherries of this style are now more often called cream."
--Sherry by Julian Jeffs (Faber & Faber, 1970)

Pear & Blue Cheese Crostata, a fine dessert for the autumn, such as for the table at Thanksgiving. Bodegas Williams & Humbert Canasta Cream Sherry, a style of Sherry which is the most popular in the U.S. and U.K., and which can work well with desserts. Together, they form a delectable ending, sure to please your palate.

The Sixth Annual International Sherry Week, which begins today and runs through November 10, is a celebration of the wonders of Sherry, a fortified wine made in a specific demarcated region in southern Spain, also known as the Sherry Triangle. It is a time for the ardent promotion of this fascinating and delicious wine, to expose more people to this wine, hoping some will become Sherry converts. This year, a multitude of Sherry events, in over 30 countries, will be held worldwide, including in the Boston area. One of these events is a blogger competition, where 20 chosen bloggers received a bottle of Sherry and had to create a perfect food pairing for it.

I was one of those fortunate 20 people, delighted as I'm a huge fan of Sherry in all its forms. I was sent a bottle of Bodegas Williams & Humbert Canasta Cream Sherry, and ultimately, after careful deliberation, assessing the myriad possibilities, I ultimately decided to pair my Cream Sherry with a Pear & Blue Cheese Crostata.

The company which would become known as Bodegas Williams & Humbert was founded in 1877, originally under the name of Williams, Engelbach & Co. One of the founders was Alexander Williams, who married Amy Humbert in 1875. Alexander wanted to start a company on his own, and received a loan from his father-in-law, with a condition that he had to take on Arthur Humbert, Amy's brother, as a partner when he came of age. Alexander also took on another partner, Edward Englebach, though he would retire ten years later, in 1887. The name of the company was then changed to Williams & Humbert.

One of their most famous Sherries, created in 1906, was the Dry Sack Medium, sold in a burlap bag, a sweet blended Sherry. In 1972, the company was purchased by Rumasa, which would break up in 1983, and the company eventually passed on to the Medina family, the current owners. The company owns about 740 acres of vineyards in the Sherry region, and produces a diverse portfolio of Sherries and spirits. They also own the largest wine cellar, under one roof, in Europe, which extends over 12 acres and can hold up to 65,000 barrels.

(From advertisement in The Los Angeles Times, November, 1, 1959)

What is a Cream Sherry? It's a sweet Sherry, commonly created from a base of an Oloroso, sweetened with some Pedro Ximenez (PX). One of the legends concerning the origin of cream sherry states that a few centuries ago, at the end of the night in Spanish taverns, some of the customers would order a "small brunette." This was a tavern blend of about 80% Oloroso and 20% PX, which was sweet and had a creamy texture. British sailors eventually tried this blended Sherry and loved it, starting its popularity overseas.

The popularization of the term "cream sherry" originated with the hugely popular Harvey's Bristol Cream Sherry, which was trademarked back in 1882, and came to the U.S. market in 1933. It remains extremely popular, being the most popular sherry in the U.K. (occupying about 30% of the total sherry market) and U.S. In Spain, cream sherry is part of the category of Vinos Generosos de Licoror, separate from the Vinos Dulces Naturales, the naturally sweet wines. Cream sherry commonly is still a blend of Oloroso and PX, though you can find other combinations as well, and it usually has between 115–140 grams of sugar.

The Bodegas Williams & Humbert Canasta Cream Sherry is a blend of Oloroso and PX, the grapes coming from two estates in the Jerez Superior, Pago Balbaína and Pago Carrascal. The wine, with a 19.5% ABV and 132 grams/liter of sugar, was aged in oak for at least 6 years, through the Solera method. With a rich, brown color, the Canasta possessed an alluring nutty aroma, enhanced with dried fruit notes and a little brown sugar. Tasting it, I found a nice complexity, with a silky, creamy body and only a mild sweetness. The Oloroso was the primary star of this sherry, with a minor, but important, supporting role from the PX. The melange of flavors intrigued my palate, with enticing notes of nuts and caramel, a touch of raisins and dried figs. The finish was persistent and satisfying, prolonging the pure enjoyment of the taste.

A Cream Sherry, which should usually be served chilled, may be enjoyed on its own, often after dinner, or can be paired with various desserts, from Brownies to Pecan Pie. It may also work with some savory dishes, from Foie Gras to a Spicy Curry. What recipe would I select for the Canasta? I considered a dessert, but I wanted one with a savory element as well. I knew that PX is a classic pairing with Blue Cheese, similar to how well Port and Blue Cheese can work (which is one of my favorite food & wine pairings) so a plan began to ferment in my mind.

My pairing choice was a Pear & Blue Cheese Crostata, and here's the recipe.

The First Step is to prepare the dough for your Crostata crust. You can use your own favorite recipe to make the dough, or if you are pressed for time, can even buy a refrigerated pie crust. Otherwise, here's a simple recipe:

Ingredients:
1 1/4 cups all-purpose flour
1/4 teaspoon salt
1/2 cup butter, chilled and diced
1/4 cup ice water

Directions
1. In a large bowl, combine the flour and salt.
2. Add in the butter until the mixture is crumbly.
3. Slowly stir in the water, until the mixture forms a ball.
4. Wrap the dough in plastic wrap and refrigerate it for at least 4 hours.

The Second Step is to prepare the Crostata filling.

Ingredients:
4 small to medium ripe pears (I used Bartlett Pears)
3 tablespoons crumbled blue cheese
1/4 cup flour
1/4 cup light brown sugar
1/4 cup chopped walnuts
3 tablespoons cold butter, cut into small pieces

Directions: 
1. Preheat your oven to 450 degrees.
2. Cut the pears into small, 1/2-inch pieces and then set them aside.
3. Roll out your dough, on a well-floured surface, creating a 10-12 inch circle. Then, move the circle atop a cookie sheet lined with parchment paper.

4. Place the pieces of pears into the middle of the crust, leaving about an 1 1/2 inch border around the edge.
5. Scatter the blue cheese crumbles evenly over the top, as well as placing some crumbles under the pear pieces.

The above photo should resemble your recipe at this point.

6. Combine the flour, sugar, and walnuts in a bowl, then add the butter. Pinch the mixture together with your fingers until the dry ingredients are somewhat crumbly, though it still remains mostly together when pinched.
7. Pour the topping over the pears and blue cheese.
8. Fold the edges of the crust toward the center, folding it as necessary to create a circle.

The above photo should resemble your recipe at this point.

9. Bake for 25 to 30 minutes, until the crust is golden brown. Allow to cool for about 10 minutes.

The above photo shows the Crostata once it has been removed from the oven and is being cooled.

The Canasta Cream Sherry paired beautifully with the Pear & Blue Cheese Crostata, a marriage of both similarity and contrast. The nuttiness of the Oloroso was reflected in the walnuts within the Crostata, while the mild, sweet creaminess of the Sherry also was similar to the natural sweetness of the ripe pears as well as the brown sugar. The notes of raisins and figs within the Sherry also complemented the taste of the pears. The creaminess balanced well with the flaky, buttery crust. In addition, the sweetness of the Sherry was a pleasing contrast to the saltiness and pungent nature of the blue cheese. I could have enjoyed this Cream Sherry with just a chunk of blue cheese, but the rest of the dessert definitely enhanced the overall experience. Such a compelling partnership, the Sherry and the Crostata.

What's your favorite food pairing with Cream Sherry?

(For more background and information about Sherry, please check out my 40+ articles on All About Sherry.)