Amarante: São Gonçalo, His Church & Phallic Cakes

As I previously mentioned, after we left the Monverde Wine Hotel Experience, we traveled to the town of Amarante, still in the Vinho Verde region. After lunch at Zé da Calçada, we did a little sightseeing, crossing the Ponte de São Gonçalo to visit the Church of São Gonçalo. Some believe the town might have been originally founded by Amarantus, a Roman centurion.

The Ponte de São Gonçalo (Saint Gonçalo) crosses over the Tâmega River, a tributary of the Douro River, which extends from Spain into Portugal. The original bridge over the river was constructed in the 13th century, but around 1763, it was washed away in a flood. So, a new granite bridge was built in 1790, with three arches and a pair of Baroque spires. 

In 1809, this bridge was the site of a battle between the forces of Napoleon and Portuguese troops. The Portuguese were able to hold off the French troops for nearly two weeks, allowing British troops in Portugal to attack other areas. However, once the French troops were finally able to capture the bridge, they pillaged and vandalized Amarante, making the Portuguese pay for their resistance. The photo above shows a sign commemorating the 100th anniversary of the battle.

As you walk down the bridge, the Church of São Gonçalo is in front of you. Saint Gonçalo is the patron saint of Amarante. Gonçalo Pereira was born around 1187 in Vizela, Portugal, and began his religious training as a child. After his ordination, he was placed in charge of the parish of Saint Pelagius, which he governed well. Eventually, he turned the parish over to his nephew so he could make a pilgrimage to the Holy Land, visiting Rome and Jerusalem. After fourteen years in the Holy Land, the archbishop commanded that Gonçalo return to the parish. 

Gonçalo quickly learned that his nephew had abused his position in the parish, using the money that was supposed to go to the poor to purchase himself fine horses and hounds. The nephew wasn't happy to see Gonçalo and had his dogs attack him. Before they could kill his uncle, they were called off and Gonçalo chose to leave the area, eventually settling in the hills of Amarante, living as a hermit. Over time, pilgrims came to see him, to hear him preach. 

Through prayer, Gonçalo saw a new future for himself, which led him to joining the Dominican Order. He then returned to Amarante, to establish a church, and the people, many who had heard him preach before, eagerly flocked to him. He also became known as a miracle worker, and at least one of those miracles involved wine from an unlikely source. 

Gonçalo was said to be the impetus for constructing a bridge over the Tâmega River. Legend claims that the bridge workers once ran out of wine, and were quite thirsty. So, Gonçalo split open his own head, from which wine poured out to slake the thirst of the workers. Another version of the legend claims that he only split open a rock, and wine poured out. When the workers were hungry, it's also claimed that Gonçalo called out to the fish in the river, who leapt onto the river bank, sacrificing themselves for the workers. 

Gonçalo died on January 10, 1259, and he allegedly predicted the exact date of his death. Even after his death, people felt he still performed miracles, including appearing to various people. Pope Pius IV made him a Saint in 1561, and his feast day is January 10th. 

The Church is gorgeous, and once again I'm amazed at the quality, intricate work done by the artists during the 16th century. You don't have to be religious to appreciate the great beauty of the artwork and architecture. 

For unknown reasons, Saint Gonçalo became associated with love and fertility, and women still pray to him to secure a husband, and to have children.

The bottom photo shows an effigy of Gonçalo on his tomb, and it is often here that women come seeking his assistance for their love lives. Some leave flowers atop the effigy. It's also said that if a single woman pulls on the rope belt of the statue of Gonçalo, in the second picture above, they will find a husband. 

Another famous symbol of Saint Gonçalo is the Bolos de São Gonçalo, the cakes of Saint Gonçalo, which are also known as Doces Fálicos, "phallic sweets." These penis-shaped cakes can be found throughout Amarante, from its bakeries to wooden stalls managed by elderly women. These cakes are supposed to promote fertility, but also are given to single woman as a charm to help them attract a husband. No one knows the origins of these cakes, and many suspect they extend back to ancient pagan practices. By some unknown twist of fate, the cakes became associated with Saint Gonçalo. 

Initially, the cakes were created only on a couple religious holidays, in January and June, but eventually they started being made year-round. Around 1926, the cakes were declared obscene by the government and thus prohibited, although people still made them secretly. It wasn't until 1974 that the laws changed, and people could once again openly produce these cakes. 

Amarante is worth a stop if you visit the Vinho Verde region. A delicious lunch, tasty convent sweets, fascinating history, medieval architecture, great beauty and more.