Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo: Mushroom Sake!

"Kinoko" is the Japanese term for "mushroom" and the above pictured Sake was specifically produced to pair very well with mushroom dishes. No mushrooms were used in the brewing of the Sake, but its prominent umami creates a synergistic effect with the natural umami of mushrooms, intensifying the overall taste. 

 
The Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo ($39.95), a limited edition, is a new arrival at Victoria Hill Wine, Spirits & Gourmet, in Melrose, and it intrigued me from the start. I bought a bottle, knowing I would soon be enjoying a Japanese stir-fry with steak and mushrooms, and wanting to experience this umami pairing. And it was amazing, a stellar pairing that elevated both the food and Sake. 

The Suwa Shuzo, founded in 1859, was named after the local Shinto Suwa-jinja Shrine, which is dedicated to Suwa-no-Kami, a kami of valor and duty. The brewery is located in Chizu Town, in the Tottori Prefecture, which is a small town of only about 7,000 people and most of Chizu Town is covered by mountain forests. 

The President of the brewery is Masahiko Touda, who has a passion for foraging and studying mushrooms, a "self-proclaimed fungi investigator," so the Kinoko Sake was a personal project for him. There is some conflicting information, noting that Touda is the brewery's Toji, master brewer, but other sources note that the Toji is Hakuma Kyoji. It seems clear that Touda was a Toji, for some period of time, and during that period created the Kinoko. He might have chosen to retire as Toji recently, and now Kyoji is the Toji. 

The Sake was made from 100% local Tamasakae rice, a rare variety, first developed in 1954, which is mostly grown in the Shiga  and Tottori Prefectures. This rice is known for producing rich, full-bodied, and savory Sake, with a prominent umami. As a Junmai Ginjo, the rice for the Kinoko needs to be polished down to at least 60%, but the brewery polishes it down to 50%, which is what Daiginjo is polished down to. However, the brewery chose not to make the Kinoko a Daiginjo. In addition, during production, they use a higher ratio of koji rice, intended to bring out notes of smoke, honey, and soy. 

The Kinoko only has a 15% ABV, and is also vegan and gluten-free. This is also a Sake that can be served chilled, at room temperature or gently warmed, each temperature providing a different experience, emphasizing different elements of the Sake. The Kinoko possesses an intriguing nose of earthy elements, akin to mushrooms, as well as subtle hints of chocolate and caramel, although without any sweetness. On the palate, it's medium-bodied, rich and savory, with a dominant sense of umami, and a complex melange of subtle flavors, from cocoa to citrus. Excellent acidity and a lengthy, smooth and satisfying finish. 

The stir fry, with its beech and shiitake mushrooms, and shaved steak, was an excellent pairing with the Kinoko Sake. The umami elements were enhanced, and it was such a satisfying taste. Touda-San definitely accomplished his objective, creating a Sake that kills it paired with mushrooms. This Sake would also be a great pairing with truffles, which also possess their own significant umami nature. I would also recommend this Sake for pairing with certain Italian cuisine, and not just those dishes with mushrooms. Ripe tomatoes and parmesan cheese are rich in umami, and this Sake would intensify those tastes too. A mushroom pizza and the Kinoko would be a fine combination. 

I highly recommend the Suwa Mantensei Kinoko Junmai Ginjo, and it's a very good example of how Sake pairs well with a wide variety of cuisines.