2019: Top Ten Restaurant Dishes

What were some of my favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2019 with my Top Ten Restaurant Dishes of the past year.

This list includes ten dishes which I not only enjoyed immensely, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious or something more unique, but all stand out for some particular reason, above the other dishes I have tasted this past year. These are the type of dishes I would order again and again, and which I would highly recommend.

This is certainly not a complete list but it's more a sampling of memorable dishes I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. It is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This list is not in any order of preference, so all receive equal accolades. For more of my favorite restaurant dishes, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Jeera Chicken at Mitho (Winchester)
Mitho is a new restaurant that serves authentic Nepalese and Himalayan cuisine, and it's food is quite compelling. One of my favorite dishes on their menu is the Jeera Chicken. "Jeera" means "cumin seeds" and this dishes includes pan-grilled chicken, with cumin seeds, that is cooked in a typical Nepali way. The crispness of the chicken pieces was compelling, and the spices and seasonings were absolutely delicious, with a pleasing spicy kick. This dish is an appetizer and it would be an excellent snack for cocktails or Sake.

Roast Beef Sandwich at Cusser's Roast Beef & Seafood (Boston)
Beneath the Mooncusser Fish House, and open for lunch during the week, Cusser's Roast Beef serves delicious roast beef sandwiches and seafood. The Roast Beef Sandwich can be ordered in two different styles: North Shore and 80T Style. The 80T Style is served with cheddar, pickled red onions and Thoreau sauce (a type of spicy mayo). I went for the North Shore style, which usually comes with barbecue sauce, mayo, and cheese. The rolls, made daily by pastry chef Katherine Hamilburg, are soft and fresh, with the slight crunch of the seeds atop the roll. Hamilburg's roll was an excellent vehicle for the extremely tender and flavorful rare, roast beef. The barbecue sauce had a pleasant tang to it and didn't overwhelm the sandwich. Each bite was so satisfying and frankly, it is one of the best Roast Beef sandwiches I've eaten anywhere.

Rye Chitarra at Mooncusser Fish House (Boston)
And atop Cusser's the Mooncusser Fish House offers a seafood-centric menu, with a few exceptions, and the seafood is fresh, creatively prepared, and superb. One of my favorite dishes there is the Rye Chitarra, made with uni, celeriac, and mushrooms. Perfectly cooked pasta, briny uni, and umami-rich mushrooms, all combined for a fantastic taste. Such a nice blend of flavors of the soil and sea. This dish cried out for an umami-rich Sake, though they have an excellent wine list. The restaurant recently acquired a full liquor license, and now you can get cocktails there too.

Fried Chicken at BISq (Cambridge)
The Inman Square area has a number of excellent restaurants and BISq is certainly one of the best. They are well known for their Fried Chicken, with Thai Bird Chili Salt, and you receive four ample-sized pieces of boneless fried chicken, with your choice of dipping sauce, Buttermilk Ranch or Chipotle BBQ. I chose the Chipotle BBQ sauce, which had a pleasant tangy and slightly spicy taste. The fried chicken has a very crisp, crunchy and flavorful coating, covering the moist and tender chicken within. I can easily understand why this chicken is so beloved, and it is a very good value as well.

Ajarian Khachapuri at Jana Grill (Watertown)
Only a few local spots make Khachapuri, Georgian cheese bread, and the best I've tasted has been at the Jana Grill. Khachapuri is made in numerous ways and one of the most popular is the Adjarian, where the bread is molded into a boat shape and the middle is topped by a soft-boiled egg or just the yolk. Jana's version is pure comfort food, with a crust that's cooked perfectly to a nice golden brown, with a crisp exterior and a light, fluffy interior. The thick crust surrounding the middle even had cheese inside of it. The cheesy blend in the middle, when mixed with the egg yolk, was salty, cheesy, creamy and rich of umami. Each bite made me want to have another.

Goat Cheese Rangoon at East of Suez (Wolfeboro, NH)
East of Suez, a Pan Asian restaurant, is a delightful culinary destination in New Hampshire with plenty of tasty options. It's also BYOB, which is another reason to dine there. Their Goat Cheese Rangoon are made from local goat cheese, seasoned with fresh herbs, and enveloped in a deep-fried wonton skin with a sweet chili sauce dip. I'm not a fan of Crab Rangoon, with their fake crab meat and cream cheese, but I loved these goat cheese rangoon. Fried perfectly, with a crunchy exterior, the creamy goat cheese was a delight on the palate, enhanced by the sweet chili dip. Why can't more restaurants make something similar rather than the usual crab rangoon?

Pork Milanese at Osteria Posto (Waltham)
Osteria Posto is one of my favorite suburban Italian restaurants, and dishes like this are part of the reason. The Pork Milanese, made with mozzarella and tomatoes, was a killer dish. The plump little tomatoes spray your mouth with hot juices. The pork, pounded thin, was coated with a thin, crispy coating and the pork itself was very tender, covered with plenty of gooey cheese. You almost didn't need a knife to cut it. Overall, though it was an amply-sized piece of pork, the overall dish seemed light and you would definitely eat every piece.

Friptura De Miel at Moldova Restaurant (Newton)
I love lamb and the Moldova Restaurant knows well how to prepare it. Their Friptura De Miel is made from roasted lamb, stewed in a special wine and rosemary sauce, and it was served with polenta, feta cheese and sour cream. The lamb was cooked for over four hours, braised and then roasted in the oven. All that slow cooking made the lamb extremely tender, and you certainly didn't need a knife to cut it. The lamb was superb, with a hint of rosemary, and plenty of juicy, tender meat, lacking that gaminess which turns off some people to lamb. As a lamb lover, this dish impressed me immensely.

Torched Salmon Sashimi at Legal Harborside (Boston)
I haven't yet written about this dining experience but it was too good not to include on this list. The Torched Sashimi is made with Ōra King Tyee Salmon, farmed in New Zealand, which some say is like the Waygu beef of the seafood world. Made with ponzu sauce, a slice of jalapeño, and some soy sauce bubbles, this salmon was so rich and fatty, silky like butter, and well accented by the hint of heat and the umami of the soy. Pure hedonistic gustatory pleasure. Legal Harborside is the only New England restaurant that has any of these unique salmons.

Cinnamon Roll at Katie's Kitchen (Wolfeboro, NH)
Have to end this list with some home-made sweetness, a Cinnamon Roll from a cool, little breakfast spot in New Hampshire. It is everything you want in such a pastry, fresh, soft and full of plenty of rich cinnamon, as well as covered with a mildly sweet glaze. Though it comes with a large pat of butter, you won't need it for this sweet treat. This is one of the best cinnamon rolls that I've eaten at a restaurant. I'd come to Katie's Kitchen just for a couple of these pastries.

What were some of your favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Osteria Posto: Holiday Lunch Delights

After doing some Christmas shopping yesterday morning, we headed off to lunch, to Osteria Posto in Waltham, which has been one of my favorite restaurants since it opened in 2015. During the holiday season, Osteria Posto opens for lunch, with a full menu of Italian delights, from pizza to pasta, meatballs to burgers. I've raved about this restaurant multiple times in the past and once again highly recommend it to all my readers. Check it out for lunch during this holiday season, or dine there in the evening.

We began with celebratory cocktails, including the Red Sangria ($12), pictured on the left, which is made with Applejack Brandy, oranges, apples, cinnamon, and cider. It is almost like liquid apple pie, though with only a minor sweetness, and rich flavors of apple and cinnamon. Very refreshing and tasty. I opted for the Golden Age ($13), made from Old Overholt Rye, Cynar, Orange Bitters, and with Smoked Ice, a kind of variation on the Manhattan. It has a strong bitter and spicy taste with a hint of orange and touch of smoke. Both cocktails were balanced and delicious.

One of the staple appetizers I nearly always order is the Pane ($2.50), a fresh, hot and soft bread made with rosemary and sea salt. It's perfect for dipping in sauce or oil,

Another appetizer is the Arancini ($12), made with mozzarella, oregano, basil pasata, and pomodoro.  A nice, crunchy exterior with a firm but soft and cheesy interior, accented by the flavorful tomato sauce. Cooked perfectly, they are sure to please, and you can sop up the remaining sauce with the Pane.

The Bruschetta ($14), made with roasted tomato, goat cheese, basil, and vincotto, is another delicious standard. The creamy goat cheese, slightly sweet vincotto and acidic tomatoes balance each other nicely, along with the crusty slices of bread. Fresh, quality ingredients enhance this dish.

For entrees, there were tough decisions to be made. Do I opt for one of their delightful pasta dishes, or go more casual with a pizza? Or do I choose one of the larger entrees? One of our choices was the Duck ($28), in a red wine demi with a mushroom risotto. I've had multiple duck dishes here over the years and every one has been pure deliciousness. The duck was cooked perfectly, quite tender, and full of flavor, with crispy skin atop a thin layer of fat. In the U.S., duck is most commonly found on Chinese restaurant menus, but its popularity in other restaurants is growing, as it should. Duck is a fantastic protein and I hope more restaurants do put it on their menus.

Our other entree was the Pork Milanese ($26), made with mozzarella and tomatoes. Initially, you should be very careful with the juicy tomatoes as you bite into them, you can spray your mouth with hot tomato juices. The pork, pounded thin, was coated with a thin, crispy coating and the pork itself was very tender, covered with plenty of gooey cheese. Once again, a killer dish that more than pleased my palate.

To finish our lunch, we shared a Tiramisu, a dessert I've ordered frequently because it is so good. An excellent blend of flavors and textures, and everything you want from this dessert. And it is certainly large enough to share.

I might have to return for lunch again before the holiday season ends.

Pizza For Lunch: Osteria Posto & Spiga Ristorante

Pizza is pure comfort food. 

I probably eat more pizza than any other type of food, and I never grow tired of it. I can easily have pizza for lunch and then have pizza again for dinner.  And then do it again the next day. Greek, Neapolitan, White Pizza, Thin Crust, Thick Crust, or even a cheap frozen pizza. Give me a slice or a whole pie. Bring on Prince Pizzeria and their all-you-can-eat pizza lunch, which only costs about $8. Just give me pizza.

I certainly have my favorite spots for pizza, including the two restaurants I'm highlighting below. Both are excellent spots for lunch or dinner, with delicious menus of Italian specialties, though their pizza is usually only available during lunch. Both receive my highest recommendation.

Osteria Posto, an Italian steakhouse in Waltham, has been a favorite of mine since it opened in later 2015. Their homemade pasta dishes are killer. During the week, Monday to Friday, they are open for lunch from 11:30am-2pm. Their Lunch menu has plenty of choices, including Appetizers (from Arancini to Calamari), Salads (Caesar to Beets), Pasta (Mezze Rigatoni to Tagliatelle), and Pizza (Red--Margherita to Sausage & White--Mushroom to Soppresata).

On my last visit, I began my lunch with the Burrata ($18), Maple Brook Farms Burrata, oven roasted peaches, and Prosciutto di Parma. This was an ample dish, large enough for two people to share, and the blend of the creamy mozzarella, the sweet, juicy & slightly smoky peaches, and the silky & salty prosciutto was pure bliss. There is beauty in the simplicity of this dish, the quality ingredients standing well on their own, but playing so well with others too.

Your Pizza choices, all Neapolitan wood-fired, include 6 Red and 6 White options, prices ranging from $13-$21. I opted for the Meatball Pizza ($18), which has chunks of meatballs that were made from beef, pork, and veal, and is accompanied by mozzarella, asiago, parmesan, oregano, and garlic. The crisp, light crust has just the right amount of chewiness and char, and the savory meatballs possess so much flavor. The cheese and garlic enhance the totality of the pizza as well. Each slice satisfies and you have to reach for another.

The next time you have a pizza yearning, stop by Osteria Posto.

Spiga Ristorante, an Italian restaurant in Needham, has undergone some recent changes with the return of Chef Marisa Iocco. You can get more information about the changes and the restaurant in my prior review. They are open for lunch, Monday to Friday, from 11:30am to 3pm, and pizza features on their lunch menu. You'll find plenty of other choices on their Lunch menu too, from Guazzetti (Italian stews) to home-made pasta dishes like the superb Timballo. There are usually lunch specials as well that aren't on the menu.

On a recent visit, I began with one of their cicchetti, the Caprese Sbagliata ($15), which included a basil bread pudding, local tomatoes, mozzarella and greens. Chef Iocco is famous for her dessert Bread Pudding and this savory version was superb, light, moist and flavorful. I bet she could open a restaurant that just served variations of bread pudding and it would be a success. This dish was an excellent variation on a caprese salad, and the freshness of the ingredients was clear.

There are five Pizza options on their menu, all priced at $14, and ranging from Margherita to Italian Tuna. Chef Iocco states that her pizza is a cross between Roman and Neopolitan, with Abruzzo accents. I chose the Bianca Pizza, with prosciutto, fresh mozzarella, and arugula. The delightful crust, not too thick and slightly chewy, had plenty of tender, salty prosciutto and it is large enough to feed two people. You can also see it is more oval-shaped, not like a traditional round pizza.

Spiga Ristorante is located close to the Needham location of Bin Ends, so there is double reason to journey there. Have lunch or dinner at Spiga and then shop for some wine at Bin Ends. And make sure to try some pizza as well as Chef Iocco's bread pudding.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) From now until Friday, December 22, Osteria Posto will offer a special Holiday Luncheon, Monday through Friday, from 11am-2pm. They offer a special three course prix fixe menu, including appetizer, entrée and dessert for $49. An additional pasta course and wine pairings are also available. I am a big fan of their cuisine and remember having a great lunch last year during their holiday special. And looking at this year's menu, I'm likely to hurry back.

Holiday Luncheon Menu -
FIRST COURSE (please choose one)
--CAESAR (crisp romaine, lemon anchovy vinaigrette, parmesan crostini)
--TRI COLORE SALAD (winter citrus, vidalia onions, castelveltrao olives, pistachio vinaigrette)
--ROASTED APPLE SALAD (vermont goat cheese, ciabatta crostini, mache, cider vinaigrette)
--TUNA TARTARE (avocado salad, chipotle aioli, blood orange vinaigrette, crispy wontons)
--CRISPY DUCK LEG (duck confit, mascarpone polenta, pomegranate salad, cabernet vinaigrette)
MIDCOURSE + $15
--GNOCCHI (red wine braised short rib, roasted root vegetables, parmesan crema)
--TORTELLINI (lobster + crab, kuri squash passata, roasted heirloom squash, parmesan crema)
--MEZZE RIGATONI (veal, pork + beef bolognese, oregano, parmesan)
--LASAGNETTE (braised veal breast, chestnut passata, ricotta fontina, lemon + mint gremolata)
--FETTUCINI (shaved white truffles, vermont butter, parmesan, marsala-$50 supplement)
ENTRÉE (please choose one)
--BAVETTE (crispy potato pave, bone marrow, kale, pink peppercorn sugo)
--HALIBUT (prosciutto wrapped halibut, celery root passata, chanterelles, winter vegetables, marsala)
--VENISON (roasted venison saddle, cider braised red cabbage, garnet yam pasata, juniper, red wine)
--SALMON (mustard glazed, roasted broccolini, rosemary yukon potatoes)
--DUCK (rare duck breast, domestic + foraged mushroom risotto, truffle butter, cherry gastrique DESSERT (please choose one)
--BUDINO (dark chocolate pudding, sugar cookie, whipped cream, mint)
--CROSTATA (heirloom apples, buttermilk ice cream, ginger caramel sauce, toasted pecans)
--TIRAMISU (mascarpone, espresso, lady fingers, chocolate)
--STICKY TOFFEE PUDDING (vanilla bean ice cream, maple sauce, toasted pecans)

If you want to make Reservations, please call (781) 622-1500

2) Best Burger Bar has announced a collaboration with Boston’s craft distillery, Bully Boy Distillers, for a limited-edition December burger special, the Bully Boy Royale Burger. This special Burger will be available throughout the month of December at Best Burger Bar in Brookline Village.

The Bully Boy Royale Burger features a quarter-pound, dry-aged burger with black truffle foie gras mousse, and a jam infused with Bully Boy American Straight Whiskey, cranberry and bacon, sandwiched in-between a toasted bun.

“When the Best Burger Bar team was looking to collaborate with a local whisky brand for the Royale burger, I immediately thought of the Bully Boy American Straight Whiskey,” said Beverage Director, Brother Cleve. “We were already proudly using it in our signature Steak House Manhattan cocktail and Bully Boy’s whisky just seemed like the perfect match.”

Bully Boy's America Straight Whiskey* is made from corn for a sweet, bourbon-like overtone, and a healthy dose of rye, for a dry, spicy undertone and then is aged in charred 53-gallon new American Oak barrels. The wood constituents bring out delicious vanilla and caramel notes, as well as a nutty finish that never overpowers the spirit’s taste. (*Note: the burger is not alcoholic, as the alcohol burns off during the cooking process).

“The whiskey’s balance and complex flavor profile translates really well into the kitchen,” said Will Willis, Co-Founder of Bully Boy Distillers. “The smooth and nutty notes of the whiskey really shine in the jam that’s used on the burger."

3) On Wednesday, December 13, at 7pm, Chef Daniel Bruce and Advanced Sommelier Nicholas Daddona of Meritage Restaurant + Wine Bar are thrilled to host a luxurious reception and four-course dinner featuring the extravagant Philipponnat Champagne and their legendary ‘Clos de Goisses’ vineyard. The family-owned vineyard is well known for producing some of the best champagnes in the world, artistic in nature and elegantly grown in the heart of France. The plot of distinguished land lays on an incline on the French region’s warmest territory, where the slope receives no shade from sunrise to sunset.

Selections from the distinguished vineyard will accompany a reception and four-course dinner by renowned Chef Daniel Bruce.

The full menu for the evening is as follows:
RECEPTION
ROYALE RÉSERVE BRUT
Crispy None Such Oysters
Sturgeon Caviar, Lemon Crème Fraiche
DINNER
First Course
ROYALE RÉSERVE ROSE
Ginger Roasted Lobster Tail (Pea Puree, Smothered Bok Choy)
Second Course
CUVÉE 1522 – VINTAGE 2005
CUVÉE 1522 – VINTAGE 2007
Fricasse of Sweetbreads and Wild Mushrooms (Shallot Confit Cream, Spinach)
Third Course
CLOS DES GOISSES – VINTAGE 2006
CLOS DES GOISSES – VINTAGE 2008
Mint Roasted Baby Lamb (Roasted Crosnes, Tumeric Laced Carrots, Potatoes Anna)
Fourth Course
CUVEE 1522 ROSÉ – VINTAGE 2007
Duet of Triple Crème Cheeses (Champagne Grape Jelly, Grilled Baguettes, Smoked Macadamia Nuts)

Tickets can be purchased on Eventbrite for $215 per person (including tax and gratuity). This is a 21+ event.

4) On Tuesday, December 12, from 19pm-1am, Toro’s Jamie Bissonnette & Ken Oringer and Tapestry’s Meghann Ward & Kevin Walsh invite guests to join them in celebrating Toro’s 12th Anniversary with food and drink specials. As longtime friends and former employees of Ken Oringer’s, husband/wife duo Kevin Walsh and Meghann Ward will join Jamie and Ken in the kitchen.

Their menu will offer cheeseburger-stuffed fried pickles topped with special sauce, sesame seeds, bacon cheddar Cheez-It dust, and iceberg; Detroit slices; and more. In addition to bites from Tapestry, Jack's Abby Craft Lagers and Bully Boy Distillers will be supplying libations for the evening. In true throwback form, DJ Jamie Bruno will be spinning records all night long.

Osterio Posto: 3-Course Holiday Lunch Menu

Seeking a fun and tasty holiday lunch? Then, give consideration to Osteria Posto, an Italian steakhouse in Waltham.

Osteria Posto is presided over by Chef/Owner Joe Cassinelli of the Alpine Restaurant Group (which includes the Painted Burro, Rosebud American Kitchen, Posto, and Posto Mobile). Throughout the month of December, Osteria Posto is offering guests a three-course holiday lunch menu in addition to their regularly available lunch items. If you are in the area doing some holiday shopping, or just looking for a delicious lunch, then you should visit Osteria Posto and try their new lunch special.

The Holiday Lunch Menu includes:

Choice of appetizer:
--Bruschetta with roasted tomato, goat cheese, basil, and vincotto
--Caesar salad with Parmesan, ciabatta croutons and lemon, and anchovy vinaigrette
--Baby greens with Gorgonzola picante, spiced walnuts, and pomegranate vinaigrette
Choice of entrée:
--Mezzi rigatoni with ragu bolognese, pork, veal, beef, Parmesan
--Mafaldine with pumpkin pasata, roasted squash, sage, vincotto, and amaretti
--Mustard-glazed salmon with kale, honey crisp apples, macomber turnip, roasted rutabaga, cider
--Pork Milanese with spaetzle, oven-cured tomato, house mozzarella, and oregano
--Rosemary steak frites with skirt steak, rosemary fries, port wine butter, and bone marrow vinaigrette
Choice of dessert:
--Tiramisu with mascarpone, espresso, lady fingers, and chocolate
--Apple crostata with cinnamon streusel ice cream and black tea caramel sauce

Cost: The 3 course menu costs $36 per person (tax and gratuity not included)
To make Reservations, please call (781) 622-1500

As I was in the Waltham area yesterday, I decided to check out this lunch special as several items on the menu appealed to me. And it was a great choice as I enjoyed a delicious meal, and it's tempting to return again to try more items on the menu.

I began with the Bruschetta, receiving three slices of a crusty bread topped with a nice smear of goat cheese and plenty of roasted tomatoes. The creamy goat cheese was nicely balanced with the acidity of the tomatoes, and the flavors were enhanced with the basil and with roasted tomato, goat cheese, basil, and slightly sweet vincotto. It was a hearty-sized first course but I made sure to finish all three tasty pieces.

The Pork Milanese was also an ample size, with a nice crisp coating and plenty of gooey mozzarella. The pork itself was tender and flavorful and I thoroughly enjoyed every single piece. The spaetzle and oven-cured tomatoes added to the dish, and I'd love to see the spaetzle starring in its own dish. I'd highly recommend this dish if you have the holiday lunch menu.

For dessert, I chose the Apple crostata with a flaky and sweet pastry shell, thinly sliced apples, and the subtly spiced cinnamon streusel ice cream. The black tea caramel sauce was also more subtle with its tea flavor. Together, all of the different flavors meshed well, a fine ending to my lunch.

Osteria Posto never disappoints and this holiday lunch menu is an excellent way to sample the wonders of this suburban restaurant.

Thirst Boston: Drinks Of Note

Besides all the seminars at Thirst Boston, there were Pop-Up Bars as well as a couple tasting events, including the New England Craft Showcase (pictured above), which featured 18 local drink producers from the New England states. A similar event was held at the last Thirst Boston, though there were only 12 producers last time. This event, as well as the Pop-UP Bars, were Free for anyone who had a ticket to any other Thirst Boston event, such as a seminar ticket.

I think the local aspect of this event is great and it is an excellent way for people to learn about what is being produced in their own backyard. Many of these local producers are relatively new, having been established within the last five years, and people may not know they even exist. I certainly found a couple producers that were new to me. New distilleries, breweries and wineries are popping up all the time in New England so it's great to have the opportunity to bring a number of them together in one place.

I'm going to present a few of my favorite finds, drinks and/or producers which I haven't tasted or written about before. There were some producers which I met at the last Thirst Boston and wrote about back at that time. I also didn't have the time to taste from all 18 producers at this event. Though the event lasted for 2.5 hours, it conflicted in part with a seminar I attended. I hope Thirst Boston holds this event next year and if so, I highly recommend you check it out. I suspect it might even be larger next year, adding more local producers.

A Sake Brewery in Massachusetts? Yes, one recently opened in Waltham and you should check out their two Sakes, a Junmai and a Nigori. Founded by Todd Bellomy (pictured above) and Daniel Krupp, Dovetail's goal is to "produce high-quality Sake in small batches using the finest ingredients." They have been in the market for only about a month and you can find their Sake in several wine/beer stores as well as 6-7 restaurants. For example, you can find their Nakahama Junmai on draft at Tasting Counter. Check out their List of where their Sake can be currently found.

For rice, they are using Yamada Nishiki, often considered the King of Sake rice, which was grown in Arkansas at maybe the only place where Sake rice is being grown in the U.S. The rice has been milled down to 60%, which technically would qualify it as Ginjo but they have chosen not to label their Sake as such. Both of their Sakes are Junmai, "pure rice" Sake which only contains four ingredients: rice, water, yeast and koji-kin. Dovetail grows their own koji and use Japanese yeast strains, using different yeasts for their different Sakes. Their Sakes are also Nama-zake, "draft" Sakes which have not been pasteurized twice as usual. Both Sakes are available in 500ml bottles as well as on Draft.

The Nakahama Junmai has a touch of sweetness and presents a smooth and fruity taste, some melon and pear. Todd recommends pairing this Sake with meat-based dishes, grilled foods, charcuterie, cheese and tacos. The Omori Nigori is a bit more full-bodied and sweeter than the Junmai, though it is far less sweet than many other Nigoris you will find. There is lots of fruit, a bit more tropical, flavors in the taste. Todd recommends pairing this Sake with fried food, spicy food (such as Mexican or Thai), and even suggests you drink it on ice! Of the two, my preference is for the Nigori but both are worth checking out.

In the near future, I hope to tour the brewery and will be able to provide you many more details about their operation.

During my weekend in Vermont at Taste Camp, I found plenty of excellent producers, of wine, cider and spirits. One of the producers I didn't see there was Mad River Distillers though I was fortunate to see them at Thirst Boston. Around 2011, they purchased Cold Spring Farm in Waitsfield, Vermont and decided to start a distillery there, which became Mad River Distillers. They produced their first spirit in 2013, a rum. Currently, they produce several different rums, a bourbon, a rye and a brandy.

Their Revolution Rye ($50) is produced from 100% local and organic rye, using 3 different types of rye including a toasted chocolate malted rye. It was smooth and delicious, with plenty of spice, enhanced by some nutty notes and chocolate hints. As a Rye lover, I was impressed with this spirit. The First Run Rum ($30) is made from fair-trade certified Demerara sugar and aged in charred American oak. Sweet and silky, with underlying spice notes, the rum also possessed some strong caramel and vanilla flavors, especially on the finish. You could enjoy this on its own or in a cocktail. The Maple Cask Rum ($40) begins as the First Run Rum but then is aged in American oak barrels which were used to age maple syrup. It has only a subtle hint of maple and the sweetness now tends more to butterscotch than caramel. This could add some intriguing flavors to a rum cocktail.

Back in 2012, I toured Privateer, a new rum distillery in Ipswich and you can read my prior review and follow-up information. I think it is time I returned to the distillery to get an update, and to talk with their new Head Distiller, Maggie Campbell. At Thirst Boston, they had a couple of their newest products, which were both impressive but very different.

The Navy Yard is a single barrel rum, aged for at least two years in new American oak, and bottled at 102 proof in very limited quantities. It was bold and delicious, with a nice complexity of flavors, including caramel, butterscotch, orange, almonds, vanilla and subtle spice notes. This is definitely a sipping rum, which will deliver new flavors in every sip. Highly recommended.

The Queen's Share is also a single cask rum, aged for about three years in new American oak, and bottled at 114 proof in very limited quantities. It is a blend of their other three rums and was a lighter, more elegant style than the Navy Yard. However, it still possessed a similar complexity with lots of fruit, honey, caramel, vanilla and spice notes. It too is a rum to slowly savor on its own, relishing each unique sip. Words are inadequate to describe the complete experience of drinking these two rums.

Privateer also had a punchbowl full of a tasty cocktail, full of watermelon flavor, yet still mainly dry with a nice acidic bite. It was refreshing and would be a great summer drink. I think I'll have to make this for a cookout soon.

Rumson's Rum, which has been in business for 1.5 years, is located in Salem, Massachusetts, and they produce four different rums. Their rums are distilled and barrel-aged in the Caribbean but then blended, finished and bottled in Salem. Their Spiced Rum is about two years olds, bottled at 80 proof, and some vanilla and nutmeg has been added to it. It is their #1 seller and possesses an alluring aroma and a pleasant taste of vanilla, spice, butterscotch, and cinnamon. Easy drinking, this would be a good choice for cocktails. The Grand Reserve is a blend of rums aged from 5 to 23 years and is made in an English style. It is bold and rich, with an intriguing complexity and a lengthy finish. A fine sipping rum, this would be wasted in a cocktail.

Mezcal Bars In the Boston Area

"..., the mescal is not a very choice whisky, but the sun shines just as brightly, and the little birds sing just as sweetly after one has been drinking mescal as they ever do after drinking Arizona whisky, and the morrow brings less misery and regret."
--Los Angeles Herald, January 17, 1898

Sure, you probably know the locations of the best Tequila bars in the Boston area, with some of the top bars stocking more than 100 Tequilas. They certainly get lots of publicity. However, do you know where to find the best Mezcal bars in the city? That might be a much tougher question for you to answer so I'll provide some assistance and give you some information on those spots which are most passionate about Mezcal.

You might want to start with an introductory lesson to the wonders of Mezcal so please check out my recent article, Rant: 400 Rabbits Say "Drink More Mezcal." That will provide you some of the basics as well as dispelling some popular myths about Mezcal. For example, Tequila is actually a type of Mezcal. In that respect, every Tequila bar is a Mezcal bar though I'll be using a more limited definition for my list of Mezcal bars in the Boston area.

"William H. Hildebrant of 1373 FuIton Street; enthused by an overindulgence in mezcal, shot up his neighborhood early yesterday morning...Firing with a repeating rifle at blue zebras jumping over pink elephants that he pair through the empurpled haze of a mezcal jag."
--San Francisco Call, September 26, 1906

First, let me begin with stating that there are about 29 different brands of Mezcal, with approximately 100 different bottlings, available in Massachusetts. The available brands include: El Autentico Mezcal Alacran, Alipus, Mezcal Amaras, Banhez Mezcal, Mezcal Clase Azul, Creyente Mezcal, Del Maguey, Delirio, El Buho, El Jolgorio, Fidencio, Ilegal, La Fogata Mezcal, Marca Negra, Los Amantes, Los Naguales, Mayalen, Mezcal Vago (check my recent reviews), Mezcalero, Monte Alban, Montelobos, Peloton de la Muerte, Piedre Almas, Sangre de Vida, Scorpion, Sombra, Tres Papalote, Wild Shot, and Xicaru Mezcal. You'll find bottlings including Joven, Reposado and Anejo, as well as a variety of Mescals produced from different agave types.

These are all the Mezcals which are available to local restaurants, bars and liquor shops. If you don't see one of these brands or a specific bottle at your local liquor store, you likely can order it. And you could suggest that your local restaurant or bar stock a specific brand that you enjoy. 100 different bottles is a small amount but fortunately it is a growing category so more should become available in the near future, especially if more locals start embracing Mezcal.

What constitutes a Mezcal bar? For my purposes, I've chosen to define a Mezcal bar as a place that has about twenty or more Mezcals on their menu, about 20% of the available Mezcals. I think that number is indicative of a true passion for Mezcal, somewhere you can experience a fair share of the diversity of Mezcal. Far too many places only carry a handful of Mezcals, if even that many. Those bars and restaurants which cherish and promote Mezcal deserve recognition for their passion and people need to know where to visit to taste some excellent Mezcals.

“Mexico City alone consumes 100,000 pints of pulque a day, besides large quantities of mescal and tequilla. These are very intoxicating spirits, obtained by distillation from the heart and root of the maguey. Although to the ordinary person to drink them is like swallowing a fiery furnace, to the palate of the peon they are as grateful as would be the softest "old Scotch" to a northerner.”
--Los Angeles Herald, April 11, 1899

Some of the top bar/restaurants in the Boston area that fit my definition include Tres Gatos in Jamaica Plain, The Painted Burro in Somerville, Lone Star Taco Bar in Allston & Cambridge, Ole Mexican Grill in Cambridge, and Ameluto Mexican Table in Waltham (which I recently wrote about). Besides carrying 20+ Mescals, these places also create a variety of Mezcal-based cocktails, showcasing this versatile and intriguing spirit.

Tres Gatos deserves special attention as they are the only non-Mexican restaurant on this list. Their cuisine centers more on Spanish tapas, which I believe pairs well with Mezcal. For Mezcal to become more popular, it is important to see it at more non-Mexican restaurants, to show its versatility with a variety of cuisines.

The Ole Mexican Grill also deserves special recognition as they have the largest menu of Mezcals, nearly 50! That is approximately half the available Mezcals in the state. If you're looking for the top Mezcals available in Massachusetts, you'll probably find them here. And if you can't find them here, they might not be worth your effort.

All five of these places are where you can gain an education about Mezcal, where the staff will gladly talk about Mezcal and help you choose what to drink and experience. There is a reason why they carry so many Mezcals on their menus, despite the fact it is still very much a niche spirit. They are passionate about Mezcal, loving its taste and history, its culture and the people behind it. I strongly encourage everyone to experience Mezcal and highly recommend you check out these five spots.

“Mescal is a Mexican spirit, strong and pungent, and is made from the milk of the Maguey plant or cactus. He who has not indulged in a tipple of Mescal with a garniture of salt, has missed something the native Californian will tell you, and he is right. Mescal, however, has the same effect upon the average American as ordinary firewater upon an Apache Indian. With a load of it he is liable to run amuck at any moment and vermilionize a whole city.”
--Los Angeles Herald, August 6, 1888

A few of these spots shared some of their insights concerning Mezcal.

Yuri Bredbeck, the General Manager/Beverage Director at Tres Gatos, answered these questions:

What makes you passionate about Mezcal? 
"To start, Mezcal has such an amazing spectrum of flavors & subtleties, & I haven't found another spirit that stands up to it. Beyond just the taste, the small production, attention to craft that has been honed through generations, & the incredible amount of time & energy that goes into each & every bottle keep me going back for more."

What are your most popular Mezcals? What are your most popular Mezcal cocktails?
"The Del Maguey line up (Green Wall!) are a huge hit with guests, whether they're familiar with the spirit or just feeling adventurous. After the first glass, I usually encourage guests to branch out & try one of the Fidencio mezcals as well. Both line ups are delicious! Currently, the cocktail that everyone has to have is our Down in Mexico. It's a riff on a last word, swapping Del Maguey VIDA for gin, & yellow for green Chartreuse."

What is your greatest challenge in selling Mezcal?
"Selling mezcal is similar to selling any niche or new alcohol. When people aren't familiar with it, they make assumptions based on passing associations. We spend a lot of time talking to our guests about why we're excited about mezcal & why they should be too!"

What do you tell customers are the main differences between Mezcal and Tequila?
"Tequila is delicious, & both spirits come from the same plant, but mezcal has a built in advantage because it can be made from any variety of agave. I find tequila to be much more green & vegetal generally, while even unsmoked mezcal leans in the direction of sweet, savory, & succulent."

Why should consumers drink more Mezcal?
"Because it's delicious!"

"Mescal distilleries are very simple and more secret than any moonshiner's still. Maguey has been immemorially cultivated in Old Mexico, but is not raised north of the line. In Arizona for twenty-five years past mescal has averaged $2.50 per gallon new with $1 added for each year of maturity."
--San Francisco Call, May 18, 1891

Zack, the Head Bartender at  Ole Mexican Grill, answered as follows:

What makes you passionate about Mezcal? 
"Mezcal is not just a spirit, it is a unique tradition. Like our kitchen, we choose to produce authentic flavors, we choose to pour Mezcal that represents the culture and the people of Oaxaca."

What are your most popular Mezcals? What are your most popular Mezcal cocktails?
"-Single Village Expressions from Del Maguey
-Mezcal-Rita (Margarita with Mezcal instead of Tequila)"

What is your greatest challenge in selling Mezcal?
"Getting people past the smokiness of Mezcal to taste the deeper flavors."

What do you tell customers are the main differences between Mezcal and Tequila?
"I like to reference Mezcal as Tequila’s more rustic and rambunctious sister spirit."

Why should consumers drink more Mezcal?
"There is more history associated with producing Mezcal compared to bigger branded spirits. It is a drink with a story behind it."

“The value of mescal produced in 1889 was $4,041,965 and is at the present time in the neighborhood of $10,000,000 per annum. The reason of this enormous increase is the steadily growing demand for the raw fiber owing to its well established merit and great variety of uses. As to the mescal, the bulk of it is consumed in Mexico, but there is great market awaiting it in this country. Its medicinal virtues are fully recognized by the Mexicans.”
--Los Angeles Herald, March 8, 1895

Alec Riveros, the Director of Operations at The Painted Burro, answered the following:

What makes you passionate about Mezcal? 
"Mezcal is a magical spirit that will never be able to be mass produced. Every batch made by a mezcalero is slightly different with varying level of smokiness. People talk about terroir in wine, oysters and produce. The same can be said about Single Village Mezcals. Tasting Mezcal is about discovery and experimentation which keeps me coming back to try something new."

What are your most popular Mezcals? What are your most popular Mezcal cocktails?
"Del Maguey certainly is the most popular, but we also love recommeding the Mezcals from Mezcal Vago. Such a great story behind the people that make it and make it possible for us to enjoy it in the US. In terms of cocktails, we offer several Mezcal cocktails on a nightly basis that it is hard to say which is the most popular. A variation of a Mezcal Mule is very popular."

What is your greatest challenge in selling Mezcal?
"The greatest challenge is trying to convince someone that their is no such thing as a worm in the bottle! We get our share of sad faces but once we tell the story, guests are open to experiment and taste something new."

What do you tell customers are the main differences between Mezcal and Tequila?
"It is an artisanal product that can not be mass produced. Of course the element of smoke is also explained to our guests trying Mezcal for the first time."

Why should consumers drink more Mezcal?
"Like the old saying goes: 'Para todo mal, mezcal, y para todo bien, también.' ('For every ill, Mezcal, and for every good as well.)."

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Chef Josh Turka of The Salty Pig and Chef Dante de Magistris of Dante will go head-to-head in Share Our Strength’s Neighborhood Food Fight. The upcoming round pits hot-spots The Salty Pig and Dante against each other on Tuesday, May 17, from 6pm-8pm, at Capo in South Boston. The delicious evening will benefit Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign, which aims to eradicate childhood hunger across the nation.

No child should go hungry in America, but 1 in 5 kids will face hunger this year. Using proven, practical solutions, No Kid Hungry is ending childhood hunger today by ensuring that kids start the day with a nutritious breakfast and families learn the skills they need to shop and cook on a budget. When we all work together, we can make sure kids get the healthy food they need. No Kid Hungry is a campaign of national anti-hunger organization Share Our Strength.

Tickets are available for a discounted, spring-fling price of $20 per person, which includes the food created by both talented chefs along with two complimentary drinks.

Tickets can be purchased at: http://ce.strength.org/events/boston-food-fights

2) On Monday, May 23, at 6:30pm, Legal Harborside will host a four-plus-course wine dinner with Paul Michael, owner of Peter Michael Winery. Located on the western face of Mount St. Helena in Knights Valley, this illustrious winery draws inspiration from the legendary wineries of Burgundy and Bordeaux. Since 1983, the family owned winery has consistently created terroir-driven wines that stand the test of time.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Jonah Crab Tartine
Uni Crudo
“Lobster Roll”
Peter Michael “L’Après-Midi” Sauvignon Blanc, Knights Valley, 2014
FIRST COURSE
Pan-Seared Dry-Aged Scallop (lightly smoked pumpkin seeds, golden squash crème caramel, herbal yuzu “tea”)
Peter Michael “L’Après-Midi” Sauvignon Blanc, Knights Valley, 2014
SECOND COURSE
Roasted Sablefish (harissa-scented lemon crumble, baby fennel, peach gel, foie gras hollandaise)
Peter Michael “Belle Côte” Chardonnay, Knights Valley, 2013
THIRD COURSE
Turmeric-Glazed Poached Salmon (bouquetière of baby spring vegetables, black trumpet mushrooms, soft herbs, smoked salmon consommé)
Peter Michael “Le Caprice” Pinot Noir, Sonoma Coast, 2013
CHEESE COURSE
Saint-Nectaire
Cremeux de Bourgogne
Comté Fort Saint-Antoine
With fresh stone fruit preserves, duck fat-fried marcona almonds, toasted baguette “wafer”
Peter Michael “Au Paradis” Cabernet Sauvignon, Oakville, 2012

COST: $175 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
Reservation required by calling 617-530-9470

3) Celebrating its eighth anniversary, Scampo is debuting a specialty cocktail menu with their greatest hits since opening in 2008. The special supplementary cocktail menu – titled “Rock Stars: Cheers to Eight Years” – will be available through June and features Scampo’s bestselling cocktail from each year since it has been open.

The throwback craft cocktails will be shaken up as follows:
2008: Fresca with rosemary-infused grapefruit vodka and elderflower
2009: Cranberry Spritz with Angel’s Envy, cranberry juice, fresh orange juice, Aperol and a splash of prosecco
2010: Scampo Margarita with tequila, blood orange, agave and lime
2011: Pop Tart with Leblon Cachaça, Framboise, muddle strawberries, lime and brown sugar
2012: Scampo Bellini with rosé champagne and fresh peach
2013: Scampo Lemonade with vodka, fresh raspberries and fresh squeezed lemonade
2014: The Bee’s Knees with chrysanthemum infused gin, honey and lemon
2015: Spicy Tangerine with tequila, tangerines, agave and lime
Standing in for 2016 is a recipe from Lydia Shire’s vault, created in 1980: Lydia’s Mai Tai with light and dark rums, fresh lime juice, pineapple juice and orgeat syrup.

COST: $14 per cocktail

4) This Mother’s Day, Waltham’s Italian newcomer, Osteria Posto, will be offering a special brunch menu from 11:30 a.m. to 2:15 p.m. and their regular dinner menu from 3:00 p.m. to 6:00 p.m.

The special brunch menu is as follows:

Appetizers include:
- Oysters with cocktail sauce, horseradish, and lemon ($18/$36)
- Caramelized Banana Bruschetta with Nutella and sea salt ($9)
- Fennel-Cured Salmon with dill cream, pickled onions, and toasted everything bagel chips ($13)
- Shrimp Cocktail with poached shrimp, cocktail sauce, and lemon ($17)
- Burrata with roasted tomatoes, strawberries, and balsamic ($14)
- Hush Puppies with pancetta, lobster, fontina, and harissa aioli ($9)
- Mezze Platter with hummus, roasted eggplant, marinated pepper, feta, pickled cucumbers, tzatziki, and spiced Turkish walnuts ($18)
Entrees include:
- French Toast with maple and fig scirropo, marscapone crema ($15)
- Lobster Benedict with asparagus and hollandaise ($22)
- Brisket Hash with potatoes, sunny-side up eggs, and garlic aioli ($24)
- Steak and Eggs with a 6 oz. filet, poached egg, hollandaise, asparagus, and hashed potatoes ($24)
- Spring Frittata with asparagus, mushrooms, peas, favas, goat cheese, and basil ($16)
- Quiche with spinach, pancetta, mozzeralla, and oregano ($16)
- Frittata with crab meat, tarragon, and parmesan ($16)
- Baked Eggs with ciabatta, spicy tomato, fingerling potatoes, and kale ($15)

For Reservations, please call 781-622-1500

5) BISq, located in Inman Square, will be serving up special menu items for brunch this Sunday for Mother's Day from 11 a.m. to 2:30 p.m.

Main dishes include:
- Louisiana-Boiled Shrimp and Crawdads with marinated hearts of palm, creole remoulade, frisee ($12)
- Chef’s Breakfast with tonno di maile, lentil salad, hard-boiled egg, sweet plantains, baguette ($10)
- Greek Yogurt Parfait with purple corn, mango, strawberry, sunflower seed granola ($6)
- N’awlins Eggs Benedict with shrimp toast, poached eggs, creole Hollandaise, sexy scallions ($14)
- Breakfast Pizza with roasted garlic schmoo, ricotta salata, spaghetti squash, baked egg, tomato preserve ($16)
- French Toast Bread Pudding with poached rhubarb, vanilla salt, anise whipped cream ($12)
- Soft-Shell Crab Pecan with melted leeks, roasted sweet potato, candy cap mushrooms ($18)
Sides include:
- Breakfast Sausage ($6)
- Cheesy Grits ($5)
- Biscuits and Gravy ($7)

For Reservations, please call 617-714-3693

Amuleto Mexican Table, Mezcal Vago & "A Slap To The Face"

“Mezcal was like a slap to the face from a beautiful woman -- sure it hurts a little, but you savor the sting. Because you know she wouldn’t hit you if she didn’t care.”
--Judah Kuper, co-owner of Mezcal Vago

Were you listening to the 400 Rabbits yesterday? Those Rabbits & I encouraged people to drink more mezcal, to experience the diverse and complex wonders of this agave distillate. You probably know plenty about tequila but you might know little about mezcal, and what little you might know could be merely the myths of mezcal. However, the more you learn about mezcal, I suspect you will find a myriad of reasons why you should be drinking it. Today, let me give you some specific mezcal recommendations, excellent examples of the potential of mezcal.

Last summer, Amuleto Mexican Table opened on Moody Street in Waltham and recently hosted their first Mezcal Tasting. Though I've heard some good reviews of Amuleto, I hadn't yet dined there but was interested in checking out their mezcal tasting. The tasting cost $25, which included samples of 5 Mezcals from Mezcal Vago along with some small bites. The event was well attended, lots of fun, and the accompanying food was tasty. My only minor issue is that I thought, based on comparably priced events elsewhere, that the size of the mezcal samples could have been a bit larger. As it was their first event though, and they are still learning, it could be remedied in future events.

I am impressed that Amuleto is such a passionate advocate for mezcal. They currently stock over 20 mezcals, from 7 producers/importers, with glasses priced from $9-$34. There are few other local restaurants and bars with that many mezcals so Amulet is a true prize. If you want to sample a few different mezcals, you can order one of their six mezcal flights of three tastes, priced $18-$49. In addition, they make numerous mezcal cocktails, $10-$11, including the Oaxaca Old Fashioned (Mezcal, Agave Nectar, Bitters) and Mezcaloco (Mezcal, Coconut Cream, Pineapple Juice). In the future, they will hold other mezcal tastings and maybe even a mezcal-paired dinner.

And I love their cow painting (seen above) which is located near the window into the kitchen.

The mezcal tasting was led by Francisco Terrazas (pictured above), the brand ambassador for  Mezcal Vago, who also used to run a Mezcal bar in Houston. Francisco was energetic and knowledgeable, with a clear and deep passion for mezcal. He interacted well with all of the tasting attendees, answering their questions and helping to maintain a high energy level at the event. He discussed some basics about mezcal, as well as more specifics about the two mezcal distilleries represented by Mezcal Vago.

Mezcal Vago was founded in 2013 by friends Judah Emanuel Kuper & Dylan Sloan. Approximately 15 years ago, they traveled to the region of Oaxaca and tasted Mezcal for the first time, having a revelatory moment. They loved the region, were intrigued by mezcal and eventually started a small beachside bar on an island west of Puerto Escondido. Judah married a nurse named Valentina whose father, Aquilino Garcia Lopez, made mezcal and whose family had been producing mezcal for at least five generations.

Judah and Dylan saw an opportunity, to introduce Americans to some of the artisanal mezcal that was being produced by small Oaxaca producers. Much of that mezcal wasn't yet being exported, consumed only by locals. They currently work with two producers, Aquilino Garcia Lopez and another related producer, Salomon Rey Rodriguez. Their mezcals are available in 22-23 U.S. states and that will grow in the near future.

As Judah says, "With my old friend Dylan, we formed Vago, a company that exports Oaxaca’s finest, most undiscovered mezcals. We will feature many different mezcals and always have something new and different. Mezcal, like wine, varies with each batch. Much of the mezcal will come from my father in law, such as our Espadin and the Elote, but others, such as our Tobala and Madre Cuixe, found hard-fought on this epic journey, will come from other remote towns, from master mezcaleros whose mezcals must be shared with the world.”

All of the Vago mezcals are naturally made, in a traditional palenque, without any additives. They are also joven, meaning that they are not aged. It isn't traditional for them to age mezcal though Francisco stated it is for some other producers. They have done a little experimentation with aging, especially in clay vessels, but haven't released any aged products.

It is cool that the front label of each bottles contains plenty of info about the mezcal, including: the name of the agave variety, name of the producer (the mezcalero), name of the village, the method of grinding, the type of still, name of the parcel, batch size, distillation date, and age. The alcohol content is also listed and it should be noted that the alcohol content will vary from batch to batch, though not significantly, even for the same agave variety.

Francisco mentioned that they are still learning about agave. I think that is a very important point, that the full potential of agave and mezcal has not yet been realized. Mezcal production can only improve, creating something that is even more compelling. There is still plenty of room, as well as need, for experimentation and study, to enhance and improve the mezcal process in so many different ways. We need to give our support to those expanding our knowledge of agave and mezcal.

In Oaxaca, a traditional accompaniment with mezcal is a plate of orange slices and sal de gusano, worm salt. This is not euphemism and actually is made with crushed worms, along with some salt and chili powder. The orange and salt are intended to be a palate cleanser while you sip the mezcal. Though we didn't have any sal de gusano at our mezcal tasting, Francisco brought something equally as good, sal de chapulin, which is grasshopper salt. It was salty and spicy, with a slight nutty accent. And you never would have known it contained grasshoppers unless someone told you.

Five mezcals were served at the tasting, from the two different distilleries. A bottle of Mezcal Vago generally costs $50-$125 retail, dependent on the variety and rarity. These are reasonable prices considering several factors, such as the laborious efforts that go into producing this mezcal, as well as the rarity of some of the agave varieties. In addition, remember that the agave can take 7-25 years to mature and dies after it blooms.

Aquilino Garcia Lopez has started producing mezcal for the first time on a commercial basis and they are exclusive to Mezcal Vago. They grind their agave with a traditional tahona, which is pulled by a horse named Señor Pancho. For roasting the agave, they used a combination of Sabino, a type of pine, and fallen cactus ribs. They also have seven pine wood vats and a copper still. Aquilino usually leaves a little residual sugar in the fermentation vat so the mezcal doesn't get too acidic. Aquilino’s mezcals are supposed to possess a definite style: "Bright, clean and bold without too much smoke."

Salomon Rey Rodriguez, known as Tio Rey, has also started producing mezcal for the first time on a commercial basis and they are also exclusive to Mezcal Vago. Instead of a tahona,  they crush the piñas, with 40 kilogram wooden mallets known as a mazos. Tio Rey has 4 fermentation vats, including one made from a 900 liter trunk of a pine tree which has been in use for over 90 years. For distillation, he uses clay pots, known as Olla de Barro. The whole production process is long and laborious, taking about four times as long as that of Aquilino.

We began the tasting with the Espadin produced by Aquilino Garcia Lopez in the small village of Candelabra Yegole. About 75% of all mezcal is made from Espadin, which is the genetic mother of Blue Weber Agave. It is easy to cultivate, matures in 7-12 years, and has a high sugar content. In addition, it grows small clone plants in about 3-4 years which can be replanted. That is good in some ways, but also has a potential problem for being monoclonal, which could lead to plant diseases and more. For Aquilino, on average, an Espadin will yield seven bottles of Mezcal and the average batch size is about 750 liters. I found this Espadin to have clean flavors with pleasing citrus, some herbal accents, a hint of caramel and a mild touch of smoke. Easy drinking and smooth, this would make for a nice introductory mezcal which should appeal to a wide audience.

The Elote, also produced by Aquilino Garcia Lopez, is made from Espadin but roasted corn is added during the second distillation. Sun dried corn kernels are toasted on a clay comal before being placed into the still. With a mild smokiness, the sweetness and flavor of the corn is prominent, enhanced by some herbal, citrus and honey notes. This would be a nice introductory Mezcal, as the smokiness is restrained and the slight sweetness makes it a bit more mellow. For Mezcal lovers, it presents a more unique taste profile which should intrigue and satisfy.

One of my favorite mezcals of the evening was the Mexicano, also produced by Aquilino Garcia Lopez. Also known as Maguey de Monte, the Mexicano is a wild naturally growing agave and yields a little less than seven bottles of Mezcal. As Mexicano can be very delicate, Aquilino added 10% of Espadin to this batch to provide it a little body, especially on the finish. I found this mezcal to be elegant and complex, with a compelling melange of flavors including a stronger smokiness, some roasted agave, caramel, and hints of stone fruit. It was smooth, well-balanced and delicious, an excellent mezcal to slowly sip and savor. Highly recommended.

The Cuixe, also produced by Aquilino Garcia Lopez, is made from the Cuixe agave, a wild sub-variety of Agave Kawinskii that is indigenous only to a small area of Oaxaca. It takes a lot of time to scour the countryside seeking ripe agave, and some, located atop mountains, must be brought down by burro. It also takes extra effort to clean, prepare, grind and roast the Cuixe. Aquilino only makes two small batches of Cuixe each year. This mezcal possesses more of a smell of fresh hay and was very dry on the palate, with a mild smokiness and more prominent herbaceous flavors. It certainly had a more unique flavor than the previous mezcals we had tasted.

The Ensemble en Barro was produced by Salomon Rey Rodriguez and it is a blend of agave varieties, including Espadin, Mexicano, Coyote, Arroqueno, and Sierra Negra. The blend will vary with each batch. This was distilled in clay pots in a small batch of 180 liters. This was another smooth, easy drinking and delicious mezcal with a pleasing taste of citrus and banana, with a slight smoky edge and some herbal accents. There is also a subtle earthy undertone which serves to add complexity and flavor to the blend. You don't get much more artisan than the mezcals of Tio Rey.

After the tasting, Francisco shared a couple other mezcals with a few of us, more small batches which are no longer available. The first was the Tepazate, produced by Aquilino Garcia Lopez, and it was my top favorite mezcal of the evening. The Tepazate agave, also known as Dub-Cual, is a wild variety which grows quite large and can take as long as 25 years to mature. This mezcal had an impressive and complex taste, with lots of smoky and earthy elements, plenty of herbal notes and hints of citrus and stone fruit. I could have sat there for hours sipping this mezcal, extracting subtle hints of other flavors as well. This is one of Francisco's favorite mezcals and it is easy to understand why. Highly recommended.

Lastly, we tasted the Coyote en Barro, produced by Salomon Rey Rodriguez, and note that a 100% Coyote agave mezcal is very rare. This mezcal had a mild musty aroma with an intriguing taste of a mild smokiness, strong briny elements, bright citrus and a light earthy touch.

Kudos to Amuleto Mexican Table, Mezcal Vago and Francisco Terrazas. They are spreading a passion for mezcal and their passion is infectious. It was clear at the event that most of the attendees were impressed with the mezcals and would be seeking them out in the future. Mezcal Vago is importing some intriguing and delicious mezcals, which though they are not inexpensive, they are definitely worth the price. These are artisanal products, produced in traditional methods by small family distilleries. I strongly recommend you seek out the mezcals of Mezcal Vago.