A Short History of Peruvian Restaurants & Chifa in the U.S. (Updated)

Have you ever tasted Chifa cuisine?

I’ve been thinking a lot about Peruvian cuisine lately, spurred on by my recent dining experiences at the Peruvian Taste Restaurant. I’ve long enjoyed my prior Peruvian meals, from the now closed Taranta to Alpamayo (out in the Lee), and have desired more Peruvian restaurants to open in the Boston+ area. I love Ceviche and Pisco Sours, Aji de Gallina and Chicha Morada, and I've even dined upon the famed dish Cuy, which is Guinea Pig (pictured above).

Let’s delve into the history of Peruvian restaurants in the U.S., as well as Chifa cuisine. We should begin with a little information about Peruvian cuisine itself. It’s a fascinating cuisine with numerous influences, a melting pot of cultural influences. There’s the influence of the Incas and other indigenous peoples, as well as the Spanish conquistadors. There’s the influence of African slaves who were brought to Peru to work on plantations. Chinese and Japanese influences are very strong as well, and there’s even Italian influences. And all those are only the main influences, omitting some of the other, more minor  cultural influences.

The country of Peru is also home to a bounty of fresh and native ingredients, from thousands of potato varieties to numerous unique peppers, from a number of indigenous fruits to abundant seafood from the Pacific Ocean and inland waterways. Such a wondrous palette of ingredients from which Peruvian cooks can create a myriad of appetizing dishes. This palette was complemented by an assortment of ingredients, from soy sauce to ginger, brought by the cultural influences mentioned above. 

Prior to the 1960s, references in the U.S. media to Peruvian cuisine were primarily in travel articles about Peru. For example, The Sunday News (NJ), January 20, 1946, had an article about Peru and some of its foods and restaurants. “Chirimoya, the luscious grapes of Peru, purple cucumbers, wild mint, string beans two feet long, turkey, guinea pigs, shellfish, and great baskets of seaweed have made these little eating places among the most interesting of their kind in the world.” Peruvian cuisine was already receiving raves in the U.S., even though it remained largely unknown to many Americans.

The article also offered a recipe for Estafado a la Arequipena, a type of stew made with beef, lamb, chicken, bacon, sausage, vegetables, and more. That might have been one of the first Peruvian recipes presented in an American newspaper. 

The San Bernardino County Sun (CA), June 4, 1950, described one woman’s travels in Peru, where she was impressed by two dishes. “One called ‘antecucho’ is almost as characteristic as the American hot dog for it too, can be purchased at roadside stands and carnivals. On investigation, ‘antecucho’proves to be a beef heart barbecued with a sauce…” The article continued, “Another delicacy that pleased her was ‘ceviche,’ raw fish cut in small pieces and covered with lemon juice and served with raw onion which is not as strong as ours, and with diced pepper.” 

Both of these dishes are still popular Peruvian foods, and ceviche has become popular even in numerous non-Peruvian spots. In some respects, it's a relatively simple dish, but it can be prepared in a variety of manners and can be absolutely delicious. And with warm weather returning, its an excellent dish to enjoy on a fine summer day. 

An interesting bit of trivia was presented in the Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph (PA), November 5, 1959, which noted, “Peruvian restaurants serve a dish called ‘Mothers-in-law Eyes’ which consists of stuffed prunes. This is the ultimate insult we think.” In Spanish, this dish is called Olhos de Sogra and the prunes appear to be stuffed with a coconut mixture. 

In an article titled, titled Picturesque Peru Features Good Eating, the Chicago Tribune (IL), May 21, 1961, mentioned “…anticuchos—bits of hotly spiced beef heart grilled over an open fire—that are hawked at the bullfights here like hotdogs at a United States baseball game.” It continued, “Anticuchos are as characteristic of Peru as the native brandy that comes from the city of Pisco and bears its name. But both should be approached for the first time with caution. Pisco sours are stronger than you think. And anticuchos are made with fiery little peppers, so strong that their juice on your fingers can sting the skin.”

 

The first Peruvian restaurant to open in the United States was Inca’s, located in Los Angeles, and established in 1963. This also might be the first Peruvian restaurant in the world, located outside of Peru. There is little information online about this restaurant, and the main reference was in the Los Angeles Times (CA), October 22, 1967, which stated, “Inca’s was the first Peruvian restaurant in this country (four years ago) and is probably still the only one making a serious effort to introduce the authentic dishes. It is in an old Berendo St. House, comfortably converted into a red table-clothed restaurant. Carlos and Ofelia Binasa are in charge of the kitchens; son Gabriel manages.” 

The article also noted that they were open only for dinner and “The menu is a la carte but prices are moderate.” The original Incas’s was located at 301 North Berendo, and was advertised as serving South American cuisine, and specializing in Peruvian dishes. 

Near the end of 2022, I was contacted by Gabriel Garciamendez, the former owner of Inca's and he provided me more information about his restaurant. Gabriel was personable and talkative, a fine storyteller, and someone I could have spoken to for hours. Gabriel is a native of Peru and when he was 18-19 years old, he came to the U.S., to Los Angeles, to attend college. At that time, he was an athlete and one of his heroes was William Patrick "Parry" O'Brien, a famed American shotputting champion.

Gabriel wanted to return one day to Peru as a "big fish," as somebody of note. However, he found it difficult supporting himself so he ended up joining the Air Force. He was able to travel all over the world, and was also stationed in Germany for four years. During this time, he tasted food from many different countries, always comparing it to Peruvian cuisine, and he never found an actual Peruvian restaurant anywhere else. After leaving the Air Force, he returned to Los Angeles and attended UCLA.

One day, when he was 23-24 years old, he drove down North Berendo with his girlfriend and saw that there was a restaurant available for rent. He immediately stopped there and inquired, as he had a desire to open his own restaurant, despite not knowing how to cook or having any business experience. It was clear that he wanted to showcase Peruvian cuisine, which seemed to be lacking outside of Peru. He spoke to the owners and was persuasive enough to reach an agreement with them about the restaurant. 

Fortunately, Gabriel had support from some of his family, including his mother, Ofelia, his stepfather, Carlos, and his Uncle Julio. The restaurant opened in 1963, and Ofelia did much of the cooking. During the first few years, Gabriel hired several professional chefs to help instruct her in cooking and running a restaurant, although none of those chefs were conversant in Peruvian cuisine. 

Gabriel stated that many Peruvian dishes resemble "leftovers" so they had to be redesigned, to be more visually appealing, for an American audience. Initially, the restaurant labeled their cuisine as "South American," choosing not to call it "Peruvian" because Gabriel didn't want it to have a negative impact on Peruvian cuisine. In time, after his customers loved the food, did Gabriel feel more confident about what they served and started calling the dishes "Peruvian" cuisine. 

Some of their dishes included Ceviche, Chifa, and Anticuchos (made with beef hearts although many customers thought it was filet mignon). The restaurant had a beer & wine license, but couldn't afford a spirits license, so they weren't able to sell Pisco, the famed Peruvian spirit. How could you serve the classic Pisco Sours if you couldn't sell Pisco?

I was fascinated to learn that Gabriel had an answer to that dilemma, as he improvised, creating his own version of a Pisco Sour which he called an Inca Sour. Instead of Pisco, he used Sake! What a fascinating idea, and at that time, Sake cocktails were a rarity so this was revolutionary. They were purchasing Sake by the box, so it wasn't a high quality Sake, but the cocktails were immensely popular, including with celebrities from John Wayne to Ida Lupino. 

Inca's was located in a predominantly Jewish neighborhood and there were few Peruvians in the area. However, the restaurant became a prominent landmark for those Peruvians who did live in the region, and they would often describe their location in regard to the location of Inca's. In time, Gabriel would generously help other Peruvians, some who once worked for him, establish their own Peruvian restaurants. He would also open three other locations of Incas's, including in Beverly Hills, at 1712 Sunset Boulevard, and downtown. Incas's would last for about 20-21 years. 

Gabriel is now a restaurant/small business consultant and life coach, as well as the founder and CEO of Perceptions Unlimited International. He is also working on publishing a book, sharing his experiences to assist others in improving their lives. His hobby is now cooking, especially Chifa. He is the pioneer who first brought Peruvian cuisine to the U.S. and 2023 is the 60th Anniversary of the establishment of Inca's. 

Other Peruvian restaurants opened in the 1960s as well, primarily in California, Florida and Illinois. In May 1964, Rosita’s, a Peruvian & Mexican restaurant opened on 941 Kearny in San Francisco, and it was the first Peruvian restaurant in that city. The San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 30, 1964, published an advertisement for Rosita’s, which noted they served dishes including Anticucho, Papas Rellenas, Papas a la Huancayma, Seco de Carnero, Ceviche, and Peruvian Tamales. It was also noted that entrees cost 90 cents to $3. 

Sometime thereafter, The Times (CA), May 6, 1966, mentioned that Frank Torres, owned a Peruvian restaurant on Montara Beach. This was known as the Frank Torres Beach Hotel. 

The Miami News (FL), January 2, 1964, mentioned that the Machu Picchu del Peru restaurant and lounge had opened, in late December 1963, tat 732 Biscayne Boulevard. And around October 1969, a Peruvian spot opened in Chicago. The Chicago Tribune (IL), October 10 & 19, 1969, stated Piqueo, the first Peruvian restaurant in Chicago, opened at 5427 North Clark Street. It was operated by Moises Asturrizaga, who sang opera, and his sister, Juana, who did most of the cooking. 

Although these restaurants brought Peruvian cuisine to the attention of their communities, there was an event in October 1967 which brought it to the attention of people all across the country. In addition, this event led to the spread of a number of Peruvian recipes which newspaper readers could prepare at home. 

The 25th Annual Newspaper Food Editors Conference was held in Chicago in early October 1967. During this event, Braniff International hosted a “Flight to Peru,” a special Peruvian dinner that was held in the Drake’s Gold Coast Room. Over 150 food editors attended this dinner, many unfamiliar with Peruvian cuisine, and the dinner earned many raves. The Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, noted that 155 food editors gave a standing ovation at the conclusion of this Peruvian dinner. 

The Daytona Beach Morning Journal (FL), November 14, 1967, also stated, “It has been said that the food of Peru is the most interesting in Latin America, combining elements of ancient Incan and even earlier Indian civilizations with later Spanish and oriental influences.” The Evansville Press (IN), October 6, 1967, stated that “The Peruvian cuisine was selected because it is different, sophisticated and almost unknown in the United States,..” The article also noted that Braniff had started making changes to their service in 1965, including their food service, and were going to introduce some Latin American dishes on their domestic flights. 

The menu for this dinner was extensive, with a number of appetizers, an entrée, and dessert. The appetizers included Ceviche Peruano de Pescado, “raw Corvina fish (flown from Peru) ‘cooked’ in lemon juice” and served with very thin, onion rings, sweet potatoes and corn on the cob, served at room temperature. The Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, stated “the chef who prepared it said he prefers marinating the fish only 10 minutes.” 

There were also Anticuchos Mixtos, skewered cubes of beef, broiled over charcoal, speared with tiny squares of green and red peppers on a skewer, and served with a hot sauce. The Empanaditas were tiny turnovers, “filled with ground meat, finely chopped onion, green pepper, tomato, nuts, raisins, stuffed olives and hard cooked eggs.” The Alcachofa Limena were artichoke hearts, served Lima style, with one article stating they had a Bernaise sauce. 

The Conchitas Pavillon were small, very sweet scallops baked with butter and garlic in Conchita shells. The Sopa de Calabaza Fria, chilled pumpkin soup, was made with fresh pumpkin, cream and a dash of curry, garnished with tiny croutons atop dollops of sour cream. There was also Corvina Paracas, filets of corvina, the “great fish of Peru.” 

For the entrée, there was Arroz con Pato Chifa, duckling marinated in soy sauce, salt and seasoned pepper, then air dried before roasting. It was served with rice and a date, rice and walnut dressing, as well as cantaloupe and watercress. In the Plain Dealer (OH), March 8, 1968, it was said that, “The garnish, we were told, was supposed to be mango slices, which proved unavailable in Chicago in the fall. So the chef experimented with hot cantaloupe—and it was good!” The writer also started, this was “The best duckling we ever tasted…the duckling was superb! The skin was dark, but crisp, the meat moist and flavorful. And the accompanying Rice Date Dressing was marvelous too.” 

The ‘Chifa’ aspect of this dish is important, and I’ll explain more shortly. 

A Salad course was served after the entrée, and it was said to be, in the Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, “…simply the most beautiful Bibb lettuce you can imagine dressed only with oil and vinegar blended with herbs and pimento bits.” 

Dessert consisted of Guayaba Machu Picchu that was described in the Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, as “Guava shells filled with a mixture of cream cheese, cream, lemon and orange juice, grated rind and chopped bits, were served in stemmed sherbet glasses. Divine.” Pistachios may also have been added to this dish. Dessert also included a many-layered, flaky filled pastry, though little information was given about it. 

The drinks also had a Peruvian or South American flair. With the initial appetizers, three cocktails were served, including Pisco Sours, Margaritas and Algarrobina (another type of Pisco cocktail). With the Corvina, a Chilean white wine, Sauvignon Semillion, was served while a Chilean red, Santa Emiliana, was served with the Chifa Duck. A Chilean Sparkling wine from Valdivieso was served with dessert. Also with dessert, there was coffee and cappuccino, flavored with powdered chocolate and a healthy amount of Pisco. 

Several recipes for these various dishes showed up in a number of newspapers across the country, helping to give more publicity to Peruvian cuisine, making it accessible to home cooks too. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), October 6, 1967, provided a recipe for the Peruvian Chifa Duckling while the Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, gave the recipe for the Ceviche with its sides. In the Greensboro Daily News (NC), October 16, 1967, there were recipes for the Chifa Duckling and Rice-Date Dressing. The San Antonio Light (TX), October 19, 1967, also provided the same recipe for Peruvian Chifa Duckling. 

The Daytona Beach Morning Journal (FL), November 14, 1967, published recipes for the Sopa de Calabaza Fria, Conchitas Pavillon, Ceviche, Anticuchos, and Guava con Queso. The Augusta Chronicle (GA), January 11, 1968, printed recipes for the Chifa Duckling, Rice Date Dressing, Watercress with Mango, Alcachofa Con Conchitas, and Anticuchos. 

With all of these recipes, the Braniff Peruvian dinner could have almost been completely replicated. 

Back to the term Chifa. This word refers to both a fusion of Peruvian/Chinese cuisine as well as the restaurants which serve this intriguing cuisine. And the newspaper articles that detailed the Flight to Peru dinner probably were the first to introduce the term to most Americans. 

Around the 1850s, as many Chinese left China for the Americas, some traveled to Peru, many working on sugar and cotton plantations although a number moved to the cities, especially Lima. And as they did in the U.S., some of the Chinese opened their own restaurants. The Glasgow Herald (Scotland), July 15, 1868, reprinting a New York Times article of unknown date, printed, “Nearly all the families in Peru live from fondas. Fondas are Chinese eating houses, where meals are cooked and sent out. If a family has no ‘small servant,’ one of the Chinamen from the fonda carries the meals to the houses of his patrons.” 

Sometime during the 1920s or 1930s, these fondas became known as Chifas. It's alleged this word derives from the Cantonese words “chi” and “fan”, which may translate as “to cook or eat rice” or to “cook or enjoy a good meal.” The article La pasión por el «chifa» by Humberto Rodríguez Pastor (May-June 2006) stated, “Peruvians heard the Chinese pronounce the expression "chi-fan", which means to go eat rice, or simply a call to come to the table to have a snack, and that was the origin of the word that is used today.” 

A related term is Chaufa, which refers to fried rice, derived from the Chinese term chau fan. Interestingly, Americans might have been exposed to the term Chaufa before hearing about Chifa. The Daily News (NY), July 17, 1947, reported on the winner of their recipe contest. Margaret E. Randels, of Manhattan, won the $5 prize for her recipe for Chaufa. There wasn't any explanation about this dish, or reference to its Peruvian origins. The recipe was simply presented without any context or background. The main ingredients included rice, bacon, ham, green pepper, onion, and eggs. 

In the late 1960s and early 1970s, some Americans started getting curious about Chifa. For example, the Atlanta Constitution (GA), February 3, 1972, briefly noted that a reader has requested a recipe for “…Chifa, a rice dish, or for Chaufi (if the spelling is correct) which it becomes when prepared with chicken.” 

A week later, the newspaper stated that the answer has been found in an article by Elizabeth Lambert Ortiz in Gourmet Magazine in October 1969. “The cooking is known as Chifa, perhaps a corruption of chao fan—fried rice—which Peruvians always call “aroz chaufa” as if to say ‘rice fried rice.’ The main differences between this and classical Chinese cooking is the use of potato starch to thicken a dish and the employing of local ingredients.

And another week later, the Atlanta Constitution (GA), February 17, 1972, actually provided a recipe for Arroz Chaufa, and the basic ingredients includeed eggs (made like a tortilla), chicken, pork, green onions, and soy sauce.  

The San Antonio Light (TX), January 25, 1970, discussed their contest where a reader could win trip to Lima, Peru. The article stated, “No visit to Lima would be complete without a meal at a Chinese restaurant, called a ‘chifa’ by Limenos.” Continuing, it was noted, “The exuberant combination of the Cantonese cuisine, the art and delicacy of its preparation and the Oriental atmosphere are so popular with the Limenos that there is hardly a family that does not have a weekly reunion in a favorite ‘chifa.’” Plus, “There is a chifa for every budget. A good meal for a family of five, consisting of seven different dishes, will cost from four to ten dollars, depending upon the luxury of the establishment—or lack of it.” Finally, it was said, “The chifas vary from tiny, family ‘joints’ to big restaurants that can accommodate up to 400 guests.” 

Chifas expanded outside of Peru. The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), January 17, 1971, printed an article on travel to Ecuador, stating that the largest Chinese colony in Ecuador was in the city of Quevedo. “The chifa (Chinese restaurant) in Quevedo…The food is a marriage of Chinese and Ecuadorian cuisines, ..” 

Supply issues plagued the Chifas! The Arkansas Gazette (AR), March 13, 1971, reported that “Peru’s military government Friday banned the importation of bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, bean sprouts, snow peas and black mushrooms. If Chinese food—known as ‘Chifa’ in Peru—is to continue a national favorite, the government said, restaurant owners will have to buy the prime materials in Peru. All the ingredients are available in domestic markets, it said.” 

More details were provided by the State Times Advocate (LA), March 23, 1971. Besides what was mentioned above, there was also a ban on importation of canned and prepared fish, crustaceans, and shellfish used in Chinese food. There wree over 200 Chifas in Lima, and “…the city’s better chifas import up to 30% of the food they serve.” 

The article also noted, “Lima boasts Latin America’s largest and oldest Chinese community. Most are descendants of Cantonese laborers who began arriving in 1849 to help build the port of Callao and the central railroad which crosses the Andes.” As was also noted, “Peruvians of Chinese descent today total an estimated 50,000. Almost half live in this capital city. They hold respected positions in many professions, particularly medicine and law.” 

In another article about Lima, Peru, the Los Angeles Times (CA), June 24, 1973, described Chifas in some detail, noting there were about 58 major Chinese restaurants in Lima, as well as another 100 or so minor eateries, “…ranging from five-table family operations to back-of-the-store wok-suey joints. They are called ‘chifas.” The article continued, “Once you get onto the chifa trail, of course you cannot stop.” In addition, it was mentioned, “If you want to start a real controversy in Peru, imply that one single chifa is superior to all the rest. For while everybody has a favorite, they’re all willing to concede that the next-best isn’t very far behind.” Finally, the article noted, “.., chifas are very much a part of the culture. Any big celebration—birthday parties, retirement dinners—just automatically takes place in a chifa.” 

The Lubbock Avalanche-Journal (TX), July 12, 1974, offered some Peruvian recipes, including Ceviche, Papas a la Huancaina, Anticuchos, and Arroz Chaufa (which was made with rice, bacon, cooked ham--or chicken, turkey, or pork--, green onions, eggs, and soy sauce.

Restaurants specializing in Chifa cuisine in the U.S. generally didn’t appear until the 1990s, although some Peruvian restaurants likely served a few Chifa dishes before this time. However, Peruvian restaurants are still relatively uncommon in the U.S. as there are only roughly 400-500 such restaurants and the number serving Chifa is obviously even smaller. As comparison, there are said to be over 40,000 Chinese restaurants in the U.S. So why isn't Peruvian cuisine, and especially Chifa, more popular in the U.S.? 

In the Boston+ region, there’s a small number of Peruvian restaurants, including Tambo 22 (Chelsea), Peruvian Taste Restaurant (Charlestown), Rincon Limeño (East Boston), Machu Picchu (Somerville), Machu Chicken (Somerville), Ruka (Boston), Celeste (Somerville), Pollos a la Brasa El Chalan (East Boston and Lynn), and Pollos a la Brasa Beto’s (East Boston). 

Of these restaurants, several have a couple Chifa dishes on their menus, mainly Lomo Saltado and Arroz Chaufa, with Peruvian Taste Restaurant having the most extensive Chifa menu of all of them, with easily over a dozen dishes available. 

Peruvian cuisine is diverse and delicious, and more Peruvian restaurants should open in the U.S., allowing more Americans to experience this fascinating cuisine. Chifa cuisine, that delightful fusion of Peruvian/Chinese food, also needs more attention, especially as it should appeal to most Americans. In the Boston area, we're fortunate to have the number of Peruvian restaurants that we do, but we could use more as well. 

What's your favorite Peruvian restaurants? What's your favorite Peruvian dishes? Have you tried any Chifa dishes? If so, which ones? And if you haven't experienced Peruvian cuisine yet, then now is the time to do so, to explore the myriad of culinary pleasures that can be found. 

(As of 2/20/2023, I've updated this article with an expanded history of Inca's, the first Peruvian restaurant in the U.S.)

Tambo 22: Chef Jose Duarte Brings Peru to Chelsea

It's an extremely difficult year to open a new restaurant. At the beginning of 2020, I was excited about the forthcoming Tambo 22, a new Peruvian restaurant headed by Chef Jose Duarte. I've been a fan of Chef Duarte for many years and loved Taranta, his Peruvian-Italian fusion restaurant in the North End (which sadly has recently closed). Taranta was a fusion restaurant that worked very well and helped to introduce Peruvian ingredients to the Boston area. I've also seen Chef Duarte at many food events, especially charity ones, and he has always been personable, gracious and kind, simply a genuinely nice person. 

Tambo 22 opened in March but soon thereafter had to close due to the pandemic. That had to have been brutal, having to shut down just as your restaurant had barely opened. I didn't have a chance to visit it when it first opened but over this past weekend, I made my first visit and eagerly look forward to dining there once again. It was an excellent dining experience, with great food and drinks, and it's a worthy successor to Taranta. Kudos to Chef Duarte!

The Incas constructed thousands of “tambos” on their roads, and although there was some variation, a tambo was basically like an inn, providing food, drink and lodging. Chef Duarte wanted to create a "tambo," without the lodging, at "the crossroads of Route 1 and Route 16," in Chelsea, where he resides.  It's a relatively small restaurant, and initially possessed about 20 seats inside, though with pandemic regulations, there is less interior dining and they have also set up some exterior dining. The interior is a bit rustic, with some great photos of Peru and some of its people. There is also a bar to the left of the restaurant, and recent rule changes will allow them to have diners sit at the bar. 

And who doesn't love llamas?

 

We dined outside, and the tables are all properly spaced, and they have tried to make the area more decorative, with some palm trees, pumpkins, and plants. They have heaters, though they were unnecessary on the evening we were there. Because their seating is limited, I would suggest making reservations, especially on the weekends. 

The Drinks menu has plenty of interesting options. For Cocktails ($12-$14), you can opt for the traditional Pisco Sour (always a good choice), the Chilcano Smash (made with Pisco, lime, mint, & ginger beer), the 22 Old Fashioned (made with Four Roses Bourbon, Salted Honey, Peruvian chuncho bitters, orange) and others.

They have a few Draft beers, all from New England, and 6 beers by the can, including two Peruvian beers, Cusquena (a golden lager) and Cristal (an American style lager). The Wine list has about 11 wines available by the glass ($8-$11.50), and about 18 by the bottle. Almost everyone wine is from Argentina and Chile, many organic/biodynamic. There are also Nonalcoholic options, including, Chicha Morada, Inca Kola, Handmade Passion Fruit Soda and Handmade Guava Soda. The drinks menu complements the Peruvian cuisine.

I had to order a Pisco Sour ($13), made with Pisco, lime, sugar, egg white, and angostura bitters. For more information about Pisco and Pisco Sours, including possible origin stories for the cocktail, check out my previous post, La Mar, Pisco Sours & A Cautionary Tale. The Tambo Pisco Sour was excellent, well balanced, frothy and with only a hint of sweetness. It's definitely on par to those I enjoyed at La Mar and the little hearts atop the froth were a nice touch.

With the Pisco Sours, you also have the option of adding Chicha Morada, Guava or Passion Fruit, to add a different flavor. I opted for another Pisco Sour, but this time with Chicha Morada, a purple corn-based drink. Chicha Morada has ancient roots in Peru and it continues to still be widely consumed in that country. This cocktail was also compelling and refreshing, once again with just a touch of sweet. It had an almost red berry flavor to it, though with its own unique taste. Highly recommended.
 

They also have a Red Sangria ($12), made with Red Wine, Pisco, Triple Sec, Chicha Morada, Lime, and Orange. This was another excellent drink, well-balanced and with only a mild sweetnesst. Very refreshing, with a nice blend of flavors, and you could easily drink a few of these over dinner. 

With out drinks, we were served a complimentary bowl of Cancha, the Peruvian version of "corn nuts." This dish uses large-kerneled corn, called maíz chulpe or maíz cancha chulpe, which are tossed with oil and toasted in a hot skillet. Once done, a little salt is sprinkled atop them. A fine accompaniment to drinking, these salty, crunchy pieces of corn were light and tasty. 

The Food Menu is small, but diverse, and divided into three sections: Starters, Salads and Mains. There might also be some Specials offered, and there were two specials on the evening we dined there. The Starters section has about 8 choices ($10-$16), from Ceviche del Dia to Mussels, Pulpo Al Olivo to Better Than Buffalo Wings. The Salads section has 2 choices ($10-$12) including an Ensalada Amazonica and an Ensalada Mixta Con Quinoa Y Queso Fresco, both which you can add Salmon, Beef Anticucho Skewers, or Grilled Paiche Skewers. The Mains section has 9 choices ($15-$32), including the Tamburguesa (a burger made with Alpaca), Lomo Slatado a Lo Diego (beef tenderloin), Quinoa de Verano (grilled summer veggies & quinoa), and Paiche Amazonico (banana leaf-wrapped Amazonian Paiche).

We began with the Starter of Causa de Mariscos ($16), made from Yellow Peruvian Potato, Seafood of the Day, Rocoto (a type of chili pepper), and Caviaroli (an olive oil). There were three different Causa, each made from a different type of seafood with a different sauce. Such a beautiful presentation. There were thin slices of olive and peppers on the plate, with a couple other sauces, including one very spicy one. The seafood was atop a creamy potato base and each was delicious, with its own unique flavors. The Lobster Causa was my favorite of the three. 

Crabmeat Causa

Baby Shrimp Causa

Lobster Causa

We also opted for one of the Special Starters of the evening, Paiche Anticuchos Skewers ($16). For more info about Paiche, check out my prior article, Paiche, the Ood of the Amazon. In short, it's one of the largest freshwater fish in the world, and is native to South America. Paiche meat is white, firm, relatively boneless, high in Omega-3s and high in protein. It's flesh also possesses a more subtle and elegant taste, which means it is versatile, allowing a wide range of flavor pairings and preparations. If you love seafood, then you should try Paiche. These skewers were scrumptious, such tender and moist, white flaky meat with a nice char. Perfectly prepared, this might even convince a seafood hater to embrace fish. Highly recommended!

Accompanying the Paiche skewers was a fried Yuca, with a huancaina (spicy cheese) sauce. A crisp, fried coating with a fluffier interior, and much lighter than other fried yuca I've tasted before. The sauce added a mild spicy kick which complemented the yuca. 

For Mains, we had the Lomito de Chancho Anticuchero ($22), grilled Pork Tenderloin with Anticucho Sauce and an Aji Amarillo Risotto. The pork was properly tender and meaty, with a great flavor from the anticucho sauce, which added some peppery notes. The risotto had a mild spicy kick to it as well, from its hot yellow pepper paste. It was a hearty dish, which will go well in the fall and winter.

Speaking of perfect comfort food, the Aji De Gallina En Tazon ($22) hit that mark! It's made with slow cooked Pulled Chicken, creamy Peruvian Pepper Sauce, Yellow Peruvian Potato, Q’s Botija Olive Roasted Pecans, Choclo White Rice, and a "Perfect Egg." It is served with a side of white rice, with bits of Choclo (a large-kernel Peruvian corn). I loved this dish, which possessed such a complex and compelling taste, with plenty of tender chicken meat, and bits of extras, from the small potatoes to the pecans. And the egg, with its soft yolk, added even more flavor. It seems like a simple dish, yet there is so much going on and everything works so well together. Highly recommended!

I also ordered one of the Starters as a side, the Yuca Frita ($10), which came with a side of Huancaina Sauce. The Yuca was just as good as the larger piece that came with the Paiche skewers. They were crispy on the outside, but fluffier inside, definitely some of the best fried yuca I've ever had. They are definitely firmer than a regular French Fry, but there's nothing wrong with that in the least. 

Currently, the restaurant doesn't have a Dessert menu, though it will come in the future. However, they did provide a complimentary plate of these tiny cookies, filled with Dulce de Leche. Flaky and light cookies with that sweet and creamy Dulce made for an excellent ending. 

Overall, I was impressed with Tambo 22, and their Peruvian cuisine was well-prepared, aesthetically pleasing, cooked perfectly, and delicious. The blending of interesting Peruvian ingredients delivered some intriguing and different flavors. Prices are reasonable considering the quality, quantity and taste of the dishes. The cocktails were also well made, balanced perfectly and not trying to rely on sweetness to conceal the flavors of the cocktail ingredients. Service was very good too and it was pleasant dining outside. Chef Jose Duarte has created a fine, new restaurant, though I expected as much from such an excellent chef. I can't wait to return, to try more of the menu (like the alpaca burger) and it earns my highest recommendation.  

Have you dined at Tambo 22 yet?

Pisco Mistral & Piscoritas

You should explore the native spirits of other countries, even though it might be a bit more difficult to find them locally. I recently mentioned Sotol, an intriguing Mexican spirit,  and now I'm going much further south, to Chile, to highlight the compelling Pisco.

Four years ago, while touring through Chile, our van stopped at an isolated gas station in the countryside for a fill-up. There was a small grocery store attached to the station so I got out of the van to check it out, maybe to pick up a snack. However, I was amazed to find that the back of the store was taken up with several shelves of different bottles of Pisco, a well-known spirit in Chile and Peru. I bought a bottle, the Pisco Mistral pictured above, and when I brought it back to the van I told everyone else what I had found. Most of them then left the van to get some Pisco too. That gas station did a great business in Pisco that afternoon.

For some background and basic information on Pisco, including its history, check out my previous post, La Mar, Pisco Sours & A Cautionary Tale, and my prior review of the Macchu Pisco La Diablada, a Peruvian Pisco. Pisco still remains relatively uncommon in the U.S. but it is a growing category and you should keep an eye out for it at your local bars and liquor stores.

Pisco Mistral is owned by the Compañía de Cervecerías Unidas (CCU), the largest brewer in Chile and a producer of both alcoholic and non-alcoholic beverages. The Pisco distillery is located in the town of Pisco Elqui, in the Elqui Valley, where Pisco production was first conducted in Chile. The town was originally known as :La Greda but was changed in 1936 to help support Chile's legal claim to produce Pisco. The brand name, Mistral, is derived from the name of Gabriela Mistral, who was a native of Elqui Valley and was the first Latin-American woman to win the Nobel Prize for Literature.

The distillery produces several different Piscos and I opened the Pisco Mistral 35, which is produced primarily from Pedro Ximénez and Muscat of Alexandria.grapes and aged in American oak. It has a light golden-brown color and appealing spicy aromatics. On the palate, it is soft and smooth, with pleasing flavors of vanilla, spice and mild herbal notes. It has a lengthy and satisfying finish, without any bite. You'll realize that it is a versatile spirit, one which would work well in a wide variety of cocktails. The Pisco Sour might be the most famous and common Pisco cocktail, but you can do so much more with this delightful spirit.

I've been having fun with my new blender so decided to put the Pisco through the paces. I decided to create a Frozen Piscorita, a Margarita that substitutes Pisco for the Tequila. I figured the flavors were similar to what you would find in a Pisco Sour so it should work well. For the Margarita mix, I used the Squeeze from the Margaritas restaurant, which was especially appropriate as it contains egg white, which is also an important ingredient in a Pisco Sour. I used the same amount of Pisco as I would have used Tequila.

The Frozen Piscorita was a big hit! It lacked the bite of tequila and there was the addition of some spicy notes as the Pisco was barrel aged. The flavors of the ingredients blended very well and the cocktail went down very easily. It would appeal to many people, including those who dislike tequila. It would be a nice introduction to Pisco and should stir the imagination as to how Pisco could be used in many other cocktails. I also made a non-frozen version and, as expected, it too worked well. Seek out some Pisco and learn more about this fascinating South American spirit.

Do you have a favorite Pisco cocktail?

La Mar, Pisco Sours & A Cautionary Tale

Ceviche and Pisco Sours.

On my recent journey to Chile, we dined one evening at La Mar, a high-end Peruvian restaurant in Santiago. La Mar is a small chain, with a couple restaurants in the U.S. as well, one in San Francisco and another to open in New York City in the near future. From its multi-colored potato chips to its fresh seafood, from its causa to ceviche, we enjoyed a seemingly endless series of dishes, most quite delicious and compelling. We did a good tour of the menu, and found much to enjoy. It is a restaurant I would highly recommend, for both their food as well as their Pisco Sours.

Multi-colored potato chips. A nice start to the meal. There are so many different varieties of potatoes in Peru and we really need to see more of them available in the U.S.

Grilled Prawns. A delectable crustacean.

Several different causa, which are essentially mashed potato dumplings, topped by a variety of seafoods including crab and tuna. An interesting presentation and they were all quite tasty as well.

A group of different ceviches, raw fish that has been marinated in citrus juices and with added chili pepper. The signature dish of La Mar, and an excellent pairing with Pisco Sours.

Even more delightful dishes from a very enjoyable evening.

Beside its cuisine, La Mar is also very well known for its hand-crafted Pisco Sours.  Pisco is basically a type of grape brandy, produced in Peru and Chile. There is some friction between Peru and Chile over Pisco, as Peru believes it alone is entitled to call their product "Pisco" while Chile believes it too is entitled to use that term. They also disagree as to which country invented the Pisco Sour. This debate is unlikely to resolve any time soon.

The word "pisco" derives from "pisqu," a term in the Quechua language, that of the Incas, which refers to "little birds."  There is a city on the Peruvian coast called Pisco, and the term also refers to conical pottery in which the alcohol was aged. The Spaniards, during the 16th century, created pisco in Peru as an alternative to the more expensive Orujo, a pomace brandy, which was being imported into the region. Pisco, especially as it was cheap, soon became popular with sailors of all nationalities who stopped on the Peruvian coast. During the Gold Rush, Pisco even became popular in California.

It is believed that Pisco came to Chile in the later 19th century when Chile occupied part of southern Peru.  Chile began producing their first Pisco around 1871, and its Appellation of Origin was legally approved in 1931. Interestingly, though Peruvians originated Pisco, Chileans currently drink, per capita, about twenty times more Pisco than Peruvians.

Pisco is typically 60-100 proof, and several different types are available, including oak aged versions. It can be produced from several different grapes, such as Muscat, Torontel and Pedro Jiménez. Some are clear in color while others range from yellow to deep amber.  Peruvians celebrate National Pisco Sour Day on the first weekend of February.  In the U.S., Pisco is still relatively uncommon and approximately 25,000 cases were imported in 2009. In most U.S. restaurants and bars, Pisco Sours will be the most common drink found that is made from Pisco.

There is no clear cut origin of the Pisco Sour, though one story claims an Englishman set up a bar in Peru, in about 1872, and created the cocktail. The Peruvian city, Iquique, where the bar was established became a Chilean city in 1884. The Pisco Sour is essentially made with Pisco, Lemon Juice, Simple Syrup and an Egg White, and topped by Angostura Bitters. You will find recipes though using different amounts of each ingredient, as well as recipes using different ones, such as limes instead of lemons. Much will depend on your own cocktail preferences as to how you choose to make your Pisco Sour. Interestingly, another popular Pisco drink in Chile is Piscola, a mix of Pisco and Coca Cola.   

At La Mar, the Pisco Sours were especially good, and during the course of the evening, I ended up drinking six of them. The recipe for their Pisco Sour includes: 3oz Pisco, 1oz lemon juice, 1oz simple syrup and 1 oz egg white. Shake the ingredients over ice, strain and and then top with angostura bitters. This provided a nice, balanced drink which was not overly sweet. I had more Pisco Sours at our hotel, but they were usually too sweet for me. I brought a bottle of Pisco home with me and plan to have a Pisco Sour party in the near future, using the recipe from La Mar.

Have you had Pisco Sours before?  If so, what were your thoughts?

Let me end with a cautionary tale. Drinking too many Pisco Sours, or any cocktail, could end up in you passed out on an elevator floor. You don't want that to happen to you so please drink with caution.

(No, that did not actually happen to me. It was a staged photo.)