A Short History of Peruvian Restaurants & Chifa in the U.S. (Updated)

Have you ever tasted Chifa cuisine?

I’ve been thinking a lot about Peruvian cuisine lately, spurred on by my recent dining experiences at the Peruvian Taste Restaurant. I’ve long enjoyed my prior Peruvian meals, from the now closed Taranta to Alpamayo (out in the Lee), and have desired more Peruvian restaurants to open in the Boston+ area. I love Ceviche and Pisco Sours, Aji de Gallina and Chicha Morada, and I've even dined upon the famed dish Cuy, which is Guinea Pig (pictured above).

Let’s delve into the history of Peruvian restaurants in the U.S., as well as Chifa cuisine. We should begin with a little information about Peruvian cuisine itself. It’s a fascinating cuisine with numerous influences, a melting pot of cultural influences. There’s the influence of the Incas and other indigenous peoples, as well as the Spanish conquistadors. There’s the influence of African slaves who were brought to Peru to work on plantations. Chinese and Japanese influences are very strong as well, and there’s even Italian influences. And all those are only the main influences, omitting some of the other, more minor  cultural influences.

The country of Peru is also home to a bounty of fresh and native ingredients, from thousands of potato varieties to numerous unique peppers, from a number of indigenous fruits to abundant seafood from the Pacific Ocean and inland waterways. Such a wondrous palette of ingredients from which Peruvian cooks can create a myriad of appetizing dishes. This palette was complemented by an assortment of ingredients, from soy sauce to ginger, brought by the cultural influences mentioned above. 

Prior to the 1960s, references in the U.S. media to Peruvian cuisine were primarily in travel articles about Peru. For example, The Sunday News (NJ), January 20, 1946, had an article about Peru and some of its foods and restaurants. “Chirimoya, the luscious grapes of Peru, purple cucumbers, wild mint, string beans two feet long, turkey, guinea pigs, shellfish, and great baskets of seaweed have made these little eating places among the most interesting of their kind in the world.” Peruvian cuisine was already receiving raves in the U.S., even though it remained largely unknown to many Americans.

The article also offered a recipe for Estafado a la Arequipena, a type of stew made with beef, lamb, chicken, bacon, sausage, vegetables, and more. That might have been one of the first Peruvian recipes presented in an American newspaper. 

The San Bernardino County Sun (CA), June 4, 1950, described one woman’s travels in Peru, where she was impressed by two dishes. “One called ‘antecucho’ is almost as characteristic as the American hot dog for it too, can be purchased at roadside stands and carnivals. On investigation, ‘antecucho’proves to be a beef heart barbecued with a sauce…” The article continued, “Another delicacy that pleased her was ‘ceviche,’ raw fish cut in small pieces and covered with lemon juice and served with raw onion which is not as strong as ours, and with diced pepper.” 

Both of these dishes are still popular Peruvian foods, and ceviche has become popular even in numerous non-Peruvian spots. In some respects, it's a relatively simple dish, but it can be prepared in a variety of manners and can be absolutely delicious. And with warm weather returning, its an excellent dish to enjoy on a fine summer day. 

An interesting bit of trivia was presented in the Pittsburgh Sun-Telegraph (PA), November 5, 1959, which noted, “Peruvian restaurants serve a dish called ‘Mothers-in-law Eyes’ which consists of stuffed prunes. This is the ultimate insult we think.” In Spanish, this dish is called Olhos de Sogra and the prunes appear to be stuffed with a coconut mixture. 

In an article titled, titled Picturesque Peru Features Good Eating, the Chicago Tribune (IL), May 21, 1961, mentioned “…anticuchos—bits of hotly spiced beef heart grilled over an open fire—that are hawked at the bullfights here like hotdogs at a United States baseball game.” It continued, “Anticuchos are as characteristic of Peru as the native brandy that comes from the city of Pisco and bears its name. But both should be approached for the first time with caution. Pisco sours are stronger than you think. And anticuchos are made with fiery little peppers, so strong that their juice on your fingers can sting the skin.”

 

The first Peruvian restaurant to open in the United States was Inca’s, located in Los Angeles, and established in 1963. This also might be the first Peruvian restaurant in the world, located outside of Peru. There is little information online about this restaurant, and the main reference was in the Los Angeles Times (CA), October 22, 1967, which stated, “Inca’s was the first Peruvian restaurant in this country (four years ago) and is probably still the only one making a serious effort to introduce the authentic dishes. It is in an old Berendo St. House, comfortably converted into a red table-clothed restaurant. Carlos and Ofelia Binasa are in charge of the kitchens; son Gabriel manages.” 

The article also noted that they were open only for dinner and “The menu is a la carte but prices are moderate.” The original Incas’s was located at 301 North Berendo, and was advertised as serving South American cuisine, and specializing in Peruvian dishes. 

Near the end of 2022, I was contacted by Gabriel Garciamendez, the former owner of Inca's and he provided me more information about his restaurant. Gabriel was personable and talkative, a fine storyteller, and someone I could have spoken to for hours. Gabriel is a native of Peru and when he was 18-19 years old, he came to the U.S., to Los Angeles, to attend college. At that time, he was an athlete and one of his heroes was William Patrick "Parry" O'Brien, a famed American shotputting champion.

Gabriel wanted to return one day to Peru as a "big fish," as somebody of note. However, he found it difficult supporting himself so he ended up joining the Air Force. He was able to travel all over the world, and was also stationed in Germany for four years. During this time, he tasted food from many different countries, always comparing it to Peruvian cuisine, and he never found an actual Peruvian restaurant anywhere else. After leaving the Air Force, he returned to Los Angeles and attended UCLA.

One day, when he was 23-24 years old, he drove down North Berendo with his girlfriend and saw that there was a restaurant available for rent. He immediately stopped there and inquired, as he had a desire to open his own restaurant, despite not knowing how to cook or having any business experience. It was clear that he wanted to showcase Peruvian cuisine, which seemed to be lacking outside of Peru. He spoke to the owners and was persuasive enough to reach an agreement with them about the restaurant. 

Fortunately, Gabriel had support from some of his family, including his mother, Ofelia, his stepfather, Carlos, and his Uncle Julio. The restaurant opened in 1963, and Ofelia did much of the cooking. During the first few years, Gabriel hired several professional chefs to help instruct her in cooking and running a restaurant, although none of those chefs were conversant in Peruvian cuisine. 

Gabriel stated that many Peruvian dishes resemble "leftovers" so they had to be redesigned, to be more visually appealing, for an American audience. Initially, the restaurant labeled their cuisine as "South American," choosing not to call it "Peruvian" because Gabriel didn't want it to have a negative impact on Peruvian cuisine. In time, after his customers loved the food, did Gabriel feel more confident about what they served and started calling the dishes "Peruvian" cuisine. 

Some of their dishes included Ceviche, Chifa, and Anticuchos (made with beef hearts although many customers thought it was filet mignon). The restaurant had a beer & wine license, but couldn't afford a spirits license, so they weren't able to sell Pisco, the famed Peruvian spirit. How could you serve the classic Pisco Sours if you couldn't sell Pisco?

I was fascinated to learn that Gabriel had an answer to that dilemma, as he improvised, creating his own version of a Pisco Sour which he called an Inca Sour. Instead of Pisco, he used Sake! What a fascinating idea, and at that time, Sake cocktails were a rarity so this was revolutionary. They were purchasing Sake by the box, so it wasn't a high quality Sake, but the cocktails were immensely popular, including with celebrities from John Wayne to Ida Lupino. 

Inca's was located in a predominantly Jewish neighborhood and there were few Peruvians in the area. However, the restaurant became a prominent landmark for those Peruvians who did live in the region, and they would often describe their location in regard to the location of Inca's. In time, Gabriel would generously help other Peruvians, some who once worked for him, establish their own Peruvian restaurants. He would also open three other locations of Incas's, including in Beverly Hills, at 1712 Sunset Boulevard, and downtown. Incas's would last for about 20-21 years. 

Gabriel is now a restaurant/small business consultant and life coach, as well as the founder and CEO of Perceptions Unlimited International. He is also working on publishing a book, sharing his experiences to assist others in improving their lives. His hobby is now cooking, especially Chifa. He is the pioneer who first brought Peruvian cuisine to the U.S. and 2023 is the 60th Anniversary of the establishment of Inca's. 

Other Peruvian restaurants opened in the 1960s as well, primarily in California, Florida and Illinois. In May 1964, Rosita’s, a Peruvian & Mexican restaurant opened on 941 Kearny in San Francisco, and it was the first Peruvian restaurant in that city. The San Francisco Examiner (CA), May 30, 1964, published an advertisement for Rosita’s, which noted they served dishes including Anticucho, Papas Rellenas, Papas a la Huancayma, Seco de Carnero, Ceviche, and Peruvian Tamales. It was also noted that entrees cost 90 cents to $3. 

Sometime thereafter, The Times (CA), May 6, 1966, mentioned that Frank Torres, owned a Peruvian restaurant on Montara Beach. This was known as the Frank Torres Beach Hotel. 

The Miami News (FL), January 2, 1964, mentioned that the Machu Picchu del Peru restaurant and lounge had opened, in late December 1963, tat 732 Biscayne Boulevard. And around October 1969, a Peruvian spot opened in Chicago. The Chicago Tribune (IL), October 10 & 19, 1969, stated Piqueo, the first Peruvian restaurant in Chicago, opened at 5427 North Clark Street. It was operated by Moises Asturrizaga, who sang opera, and his sister, Juana, who did most of the cooking. 

Although these restaurants brought Peruvian cuisine to the attention of their communities, there was an event in October 1967 which brought it to the attention of people all across the country. In addition, this event led to the spread of a number of Peruvian recipes which newspaper readers could prepare at home. 

The 25th Annual Newspaper Food Editors Conference was held in Chicago in early October 1967. During this event, Braniff International hosted a “Flight to Peru,” a special Peruvian dinner that was held in the Drake’s Gold Coast Room. Over 150 food editors attended this dinner, many unfamiliar with Peruvian cuisine, and the dinner earned many raves. The Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, noted that 155 food editors gave a standing ovation at the conclusion of this Peruvian dinner. 

The Daytona Beach Morning Journal (FL), November 14, 1967, also stated, “It has been said that the food of Peru is the most interesting in Latin America, combining elements of ancient Incan and even earlier Indian civilizations with later Spanish and oriental influences.” The Evansville Press (IN), October 6, 1967, stated that “The Peruvian cuisine was selected because it is different, sophisticated and almost unknown in the United States,..” The article also noted that Braniff had started making changes to their service in 1965, including their food service, and were going to introduce some Latin American dishes on their domestic flights. 

The menu for this dinner was extensive, with a number of appetizers, an entrée, and dessert. The appetizers included Ceviche Peruano de Pescado, “raw Corvina fish (flown from Peru) ‘cooked’ in lemon juice” and served with very thin, onion rings, sweet potatoes and corn on the cob, served at room temperature. The Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, stated “the chef who prepared it said he prefers marinating the fish only 10 minutes.” 

There were also Anticuchos Mixtos, skewered cubes of beef, broiled over charcoal, speared with tiny squares of green and red peppers on a skewer, and served with a hot sauce. The Empanaditas were tiny turnovers, “filled with ground meat, finely chopped onion, green pepper, tomato, nuts, raisins, stuffed olives and hard cooked eggs.” The Alcachofa Limena were artichoke hearts, served Lima style, with one article stating they had a Bernaise sauce. 

The Conchitas Pavillon were small, very sweet scallops baked with butter and garlic in Conchita shells. The Sopa de Calabaza Fria, chilled pumpkin soup, was made with fresh pumpkin, cream and a dash of curry, garnished with tiny croutons atop dollops of sour cream. There was also Corvina Paracas, filets of corvina, the “great fish of Peru.” 

For the entrée, there was Arroz con Pato Chifa, duckling marinated in soy sauce, salt and seasoned pepper, then air dried before roasting. It was served with rice and a date, rice and walnut dressing, as well as cantaloupe and watercress. In the Plain Dealer (OH), March 8, 1968, it was said that, “The garnish, we were told, was supposed to be mango slices, which proved unavailable in Chicago in the fall. So the chef experimented with hot cantaloupe—and it was good!” The writer also started, this was “The best duckling we ever tasted…the duckling was superb! The skin was dark, but crisp, the meat moist and flavorful. And the accompanying Rice Date Dressing was marvelous too.” 

The ‘Chifa’ aspect of this dish is important, and I’ll explain more shortly. 

A Salad course was served after the entrée, and it was said to be, in the Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, “…simply the most beautiful Bibb lettuce you can imagine dressed only with oil and vinegar blended with herbs and pimento bits.” 

Dessert consisted of Guayaba Machu Picchu that was described in the Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, as “Guava shells filled with a mixture of cream cheese, cream, lemon and orange juice, grated rind and chopped bits, were served in stemmed sherbet glasses. Divine.” Pistachios may also have been added to this dish. Dessert also included a many-layered, flaky filled pastry, though little information was given about it. 

The drinks also had a Peruvian or South American flair. With the initial appetizers, three cocktails were served, including Pisco Sours, Margaritas and Algarrobina (another type of Pisco cocktail). With the Corvina, a Chilean white wine, Sauvignon Semillion, was served while a Chilean red, Santa Emiliana, was served with the Chifa Duck. A Chilean Sparkling wine from Valdivieso was served with dessert. Also with dessert, there was coffee and cappuccino, flavored with powdered chocolate and a healthy amount of Pisco. 

Several recipes for these various dishes showed up in a number of newspapers across the country, helping to give more publicity to Peruvian cuisine, making it accessible to home cooks too. 

The Chicago Tribune (IL), October 6, 1967, provided a recipe for the Peruvian Chifa Duckling while the Tampa Tribune (FL), October 7, 1967, gave the recipe for the Ceviche with its sides. In the Greensboro Daily News (NC), October 16, 1967, there were recipes for the Chifa Duckling and Rice-Date Dressing. The San Antonio Light (TX), October 19, 1967, also provided the same recipe for Peruvian Chifa Duckling. 

The Daytona Beach Morning Journal (FL), November 14, 1967, published recipes for the Sopa de Calabaza Fria, Conchitas Pavillon, Ceviche, Anticuchos, and Guava con Queso. The Augusta Chronicle (GA), January 11, 1968, printed recipes for the Chifa Duckling, Rice Date Dressing, Watercress with Mango, Alcachofa Con Conchitas, and Anticuchos. 

With all of these recipes, the Braniff Peruvian dinner could have almost been completely replicated. 

Back to the term Chifa. This word refers to both a fusion of Peruvian/Chinese cuisine as well as the restaurants which serve this intriguing cuisine. And the newspaper articles that detailed the Flight to Peru dinner probably were the first to introduce the term to most Americans. 

Around the 1850s, as many Chinese left China for the Americas, some traveled to Peru, many working on sugar and cotton plantations although a number moved to the cities, especially Lima. And as they did in the U.S., some of the Chinese opened their own restaurants. The Glasgow Herald (Scotland), July 15, 1868, reprinting a New York Times article of unknown date, printed, “Nearly all the families in Peru live from fondas. Fondas are Chinese eating houses, where meals are cooked and sent out. If a family has no ‘small servant,’ one of the Chinamen from the fonda carries the meals to the houses of his patrons.” 

Sometime during the 1920s or 1930s, these fondas became known as Chifas. It's alleged this word derives from the Cantonese words “chi” and “fan”, which may translate as “to cook or eat rice” or to “cook or enjoy a good meal.” The article La pasión por el «chifa» by Humberto Rodríguez Pastor (May-June 2006) stated, “Peruvians heard the Chinese pronounce the expression "chi-fan", which means to go eat rice, or simply a call to come to the table to have a snack, and that was the origin of the word that is used today.” 

A related term is Chaufa, which refers to fried rice, derived from the Chinese term chau fan. Interestingly, Americans might have been exposed to the term Chaufa before hearing about Chifa. The Daily News (NY), July 17, 1947, reported on the winner of their recipe contest. Margaret E. Randels, of Manhattan, won the $5 prize for her recipe for Chaufa. There wasn't any explanation about this dish, or reference to its Peruvian origins. The recipe was simply presented without any context or background. The main ingredients included rice, bacon, ham, green pepper, onion, and eggs. 

In the late 1960s and early 1970s, some Americans started getting curious about Chifa. For example, the Atlanta Constitution (GA), February 3, 1972, briefly noted that a reader has requested a recipe for “…Chifa, a rice dish, or for Chaufi (if the spelling is correct) which it becomes when prepared with chicken.” 

A week later, the newspaper stated that the answer has been found in an article by Elizabeth Lambert Ortiz in Gourmet Magazine in October 1969. “The cooking is known as Chifa, perhaps a corruption of chao fan—fried rice—which Peruvians always call “aroz chaufa” as if to say ‘rice fried rice.’ The main differences between this and classical Chinese cooking is the use of potato starch to thicken a dish and the employing of local ingredients.

And another week later, the Atlanta Constitution (GA), February 17, 1972, actually provided a recipe for Arroz Chaufa, and the basic ingredients includeed eggs (made like a tortilla), chicken, pork, green onions, and soy sauce.  

The San Antonio Light (TX), January 25, 1970, discussed their contest where a reader could win trip to Lima, Peru. The article stated, “No visit to Lima would be complete without a meal at a Chinese restaurant, called a ‘chifa’ by Limenos.” Continuing, it was noted, “The exuberant combination of the Cantonese cuisine, the art and delicacy of its preparation and the Oriental atmosphere are so popular with the Limenos that there is hardly a family that does not have a weekly reunion in a favorite ‘chifa.’” Plus, “There is a chifa for every budget. A good meal for a family of five, consisting of seven different dishes, will cost from four to ten dollars, depending upon the luxury of the establishment—or lack of it.” Finally, it was said, “The chifas vary from tiny, family ‘joints’ to big restaurants that can accommodate up to 400 guests.” 

Chifas expanded outside of Peru. The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), January 17, 1971, printed an article on travel to Ecuador, stating that the largest Chinese colony in Ecuador was in the city of Quevedo. “The chifa (Chinese restaurant) in Quevedo…The food is a marriage of Chinese and Ecuadorian cuisines, ..” 

Supply issues plagued the Chifas! The Arkansas Gazette (AR), March 13, 1971, reported that “Peru’s military government Friday banned the importation of bamboo shoots, water chestnuts, bean sprouts, snow peas and black mushrooms. If Chinese food—known as ‘Chifa’ in Peru—is to continue a national favorite, the government said, restaurant owners will have to buy the prime materials in Peru. All the ingredients are available in domestic markets, it said.” 

More details were provided by the State Times Advocate (LA), March 23, 1971. Besides what was mentioned above, there was also a ban on importation of canned and prepared fish, crustaceans, and shellfish used in Chinese food. There wree over 200 Chifas in Lima, and “…the city’s better chifas import up to 30% of the food they serve.” 

The article also noted, “Lima boasts Latin America’s largest and oldest Chinese community. Most are descendants of Cantonese laborers who began arriving in 1849 to help build the port of Callao and the central railroad which crosses the Andes.” As was also noted, “Peruvians of Chinese descent today total an estimated 50,000. Almost half live in this capital city. They hold respected positions in many professions, particularly medicine and law.” 

In another article about Lima, Peru, the Los Angeles Times (CA), June 24, 1973, described Chifas in some detail, noting there were about 58 major Chinese restaurants in Lima, as well as another 100 or so minor eateries, “…ranging from five-table family operations to back-of-the-store wok-suey joints. They are called ‘chifas.” The article continued, “Once you get onto the chifa trail, of course you cannot stop.” In addition, it was mentioned, “If you want to start a real controversy in Peru, imply that one single chifa is superior to all the rest. For while everybody has a favorite, they’re all willing to concede that the next-best isn’t very far behind.” Finally, the article noted, “.., chifas are very much a part of the culture. Any big celebration—birthday parties, retirement dinners—just automatically takes place in a chifa.” 

The Lubbock Avalanche-Journal (TX), July 12, 1974, offered some Peruvian recipes, including Ceviche, Papas a la Huancaina, Anticuchos, and Arroz Chaufa (which was made with rice, bacon, cooked ham--or chicken, turkey, or pork--, green onions, eggs, and soy sauce.

Restaurants specializing in Chifa cuisine in the U.S. generally didn’t appear until the 1990s, although some Peruvian restaurants likely served a few Chifa dishes before this time. However, Peruvian restaurants are still relatively uncommon in the U.S. as there are only roughly 400-500 such restaurants and the number serving Chifa is obviously even smaller. As comparison, there are said to be over 40,000 Chinese restaurants in the U.S. So why isn't Peruvian cuisine, and especially Chifa, more popular in the U.S.? 

In the Boston+ region, there’s a small number of Peruvian restaurants, including Tambo 22 (Chelsea), Peruvian Taste Restaurant (Charlestown), Rincon Limeño (East Boston), Machu Picchu (Somerville), Machu Chicken (Somerville), Ruka (Boston), Celeste (Somerville), Pollos a la Brasa El Chalan (East Boston and Lynn), and Pollos a la Brasa Beto’s (East Boston). 

Of these restaurants, several have a couple Chifa dishes on their menus, mainly Lomo Saltado and Arroz Chaufa, with Peruvian Taste Restaurant having the most extensive Chifa menu of all of them, with easily over a dozen dishes available. 

Peruvian cuisine is diverse and delicious, and more Peruvian restaurants should open in the U.S., allowing more Americans to experience this fascinating cuisine. Chifa cuisine, that delightful fusion of Peruvian/Chinese food, also needs more attention, especially as it should appeal to most Americans. In the Boston area, we're fortunate to have the number of Peruvian restaurants that we do, but we could use more as well. 

What's your favorite Peruvian restaurants? What's your favorite Peruvian dishes? Have you tried any Chifa dishes? If so, which ones? And if you haven't experienced Peruvian cuisine yet, then now is the time to do so, to explore the myriad of culinary pleasures that can be found. 

(As of 2/20/2023, I've updated this article with an expanded history of Inca's, the first Peruvian restaurant in the U.S.)

Brunch at Tambo 22: Alpaca to Cherimoya

Last weekend, the weather was gorgeous, perfect for patio dining, and I went to Brunch at Tambo 22, the new Peruvian restaurant in Chelsea. Check out my initial review of Tambo 22 where I stated, "Overall, I was impressed with Tambo 22, and their Peruvian cuisine was well-prepared, aesthetically pleasing, cooked perfectly, and delicious. The blending of interesting Peruvian ingredients delivered some intriguing and different flavors....and it earns my highest recommendation." My Brunch experience was equally as impressive and I can't recommend Tambo 22 enough.

Three different Brunch cocktails are offered, including Mimosas (4 types), Bloody Mary con Rocoto, and a Cafe con Leche Martini. I ordered a Bloody Mary ($12) and the Rocoto is a South American chili pepper. Well chilled, the cocktail was delicious, with a pleasing spicy kick and the addition of a celery stalk, olive and lemon slice. Tambo 22 has a killer cocktail program and this is another winner.  

Off their regular cocktail menu, I also opted for the 22 Old Fashioned ($14), made with Four Roses Bourbon, Salted Honey, Peruvian Chuncho Bitters, Orange, and a Bourbon Soaked Cherry. The Chuncho Bitters are produced from a combination of over 30 peels, herbs, roots, barks and flowers from the Peruvian forest. Tasty, not overly sweet, with a nice touch of salinity and intriguing herbal notes. And it helps that it's made with one of my favorite bourbons.

The Brunch menu has plenty of selections, some which are from their dinner menu. You'll find Starters (8 options, $10-$16); like Waffles Con Manjar Blanco (Dulce de Leche, Fresh Strawberries, Crumbled Meringue) and Causa de Mariscos. There are a couple of Huevo (egg) dishes ($12-$13) and 5 Sandwiches ($6-$15) like Pan con Heuvo (egg sandwich) and Pan con Aji de Gallina (pulled chicken & creamy Aji Amarillo sauce). There are also 4 Entrees ($18-$32), like Ceviche del Dia and Lomo Saltado A Lo Diego (beef tenderloin). 

The meal began with a complimentary sample of a new dish they are working on, a Lamb and Rice Soup, which was tasty, with a flavorful broth and tender lamb. As the weather gets cooler, this would be an excellent choice to warm your belly. I would certainly order a bowl on a future visit.

For a starter, I chose the Choclo Con Questo ($12), giant Peruvian "street corn" with Queso Fresco, Huacatay and Aji Amarillo. These are some of the largest corn kernels you'll ever see, with a serious crunch to them. The toppings all blended well together, enhancing the taste of the corn as well as providing a creamy texture. 

For another starter, I selected the Tamal de Chanco ($10), a spicy tamale with pork, hard boiled egg, botija olive, peanuts, and a Criolla onion salad. Once you open the leaf, there was a creamy and delicious blend of ingredients, with some textural elements from the peanuts and olive. It was only mildly spicy with tender pieces of pork. 

The Pan Con Chicarron ($15) is an ample sandwich made with pork belly, fried sweet potatoes, and mint criollo. The roll is similar in some respects to a baguette, though Tambo 22 gets the rolls made at a Vietnamese spot, so it is closer to Bahn Mi bread. The bread is thinner, and doesn't overwhelm the fillings. The pork belly was excellent, with silky fat and some very crispy pieces. The fried sweet potato also added a creamy element, with bits of crunch as well. The onions also added a mild floral element. A great choice. 

I had to try the Tamburgeusa ($18), their burger which is made with seasoned alpaca and short rib meat, and topped by criollo onion, huacatay aji sauce, and gouda cheese. You could add a fried egg ($2) and a vegetarian burger option is also available. I've eaten llama meat before but never alpaca. As this was my first time trying it, I opted it enjoy the burger more plain, with just the cheese on it, so I could better experience the taste of the burger. It resembled the look of a beef burger but the taste was certainly different, with a more gamey and meaty element, similar in some respects to ground lamb. It was tender and juicy, and made for an excellent burger. I'd definitely order it again and strongly recommend you check it out. 

At the end of the meal, a complimentary dessert was served, slices of Cherimoya fruit, that were in some Triple Sec. Cherimoya likely originated in Central America and traveled to South America. Mark Twain once noted it was, "...the most delicious fruit known to men, cherimoya,.." Its flesh is creamy, with almost a custardy feel to it, and it had flavors similar to tropical fruits. Very intriguing.

Tambo 22 is one of the brightest new restaurants of 2020, bringing greater attention to Peruvian cuisine. If you haven't dined there yet, then quickly remedy that situation. I'll be returning again and again, to experience more of their menu, and enjoy again some of my new favorites. 

Tambo 22: Chef Jose Duarte Brings Peru to Chelsea

It's an extremely difficult year to open a new restaurant. At the beginning of 2020, I was excited about the forthcoming Tambo 22, a new Peruvian restaurant headed by Chef Jose Duarte. I've been a fan of Chef Duarte for many years and loved Taranta, his Peruvian-Italian fusion restaurant in the North End (which sadly has recently closed). Taranta was a fusion restaurant that worked very well and helped to introduce Peruvian ingredients to the Boston area. I've also seen Chef Duarte at many food events, especially charity ones, and he has always been personable, gracious and kind, simply a genuinely nice person. 

Tambo 22 opened in March but soon thereafter had to close due to the pandemic. That had to have been brutal, having to shut down just as your restaurant had barely opened. I didn't have a chance to visit it when it first opened but over this past weekend, I made my first visit and eagerly look forward to dining there once again. It was an excellent dining experience, with great food and drinks, and it's a worthy successor to Taranta. Kudos to Chef Duarte!

The Incas constructed thousands of “tambos” on their roads, and although there was some variation, a tambo was basically like an inn, providing food, drink and lodging. Chef Duarte wanted to create a "tambo," without the lodging, at "the crossroads of Route 1 and Route 16," in Chelsea, where he resides.  It's a relatively small restaurant, and initially possessed about 20 seats inside, though with pandemic regulations, there is less interior dining and they have also set up some exterior dining. The interior is a bit rustic, with some great photos of Peru and some of its people. There is also a bar to the left of the restaurant, and recent rule changes will allow them to have diners sit at the bar. 

And who doesn't love llamas?

 

We dined outside, and the tables are all properly spaced, and they have tried to make the area more decorative, with some palm trees, pumpkins, and plants. They have heaters, though they were unnecessary on the evening we were there. Because their seating is limited, I would suggest making reservations, especially on the weekends. 

The Drinks menu has plenty of interesting options. For Cocktails ($12-$14), you can opt for the traditional Pisco Sour (always a good choice), the Chilcano Smash (made with Pisco, lime, mint, & ginger beer), the 22 Old Fashioned (made with Four Roses Bourbon, Salted Honey, Peruvian chuncho bitters, orange) and others.

They have a few Draft beers, all from New England, and 6 beers by the can, including two Peruvian beers, Cusquena (a golden lager) and Cristal (an American style lager). The Wine list has about 11 wines available by the glass ($8-$11.50), and about 18 by the bottle. Almost everyone wine is from Argentina and Chile, many organic/biodynamic. There are also Nonalcoholic options, including, Chicha Morada, Inca Kola, Handmade Passion Fruit Soda and Handmade Guava Soda. The drinks menu complements the Peruvian cuisine.

I had to order a Pisco Sour ($13), made with Pisco, lime, sugar, egg white, and angostura bitters. For more information about Pisco and Pisco Sours, including possible origin stories for the cocktail, check out my previous post, La Mar, Pisco Sours & A Cautionary Tale. The Tambo Pisco Sour was excellent, well balanced, frothy and with only a hint of sweetness. It's definitely on par to those I enjoyed at La Mar and the little hearts atop the froth were a nice touch.

With the Pisco Sours, you also have the option of adding Chicha Morada, Guava or Passion Fruit, to add a different flavor. I opted for another Pisco Sour, but this time with Chicha Morada, a purple corn-based drink. Chicha Morada has ancient roots in Peru and it continues to still be widely consumed in that country. This cocktail was also compelling and refreshing, once again with just a touch of sweet. It had an almost red berry flavor to it, though with its own unique taste. Highly recommended.
 

They also have a Red Sangria ($12), made with Red Wine, Pisco, Triple Sec, Chicha Morada, Lime, and Orange. This was another excellent drink, well-balanced and with only a mild sweetnesst. Very refreshing, with a nice blend of flavors, and you could easily drink a few of these over dinner. 

With out drinks, we were served a complimentary bowl of Cancha, the Peruvian version of "corn nuts." This dish uses large-kerneled corn, called maíz chulpe or maíz cancha chulpe, which are tossed with oil and toasted in a hot skillet. Once done, a little salt is sprinkled atop them. A fine accompaniment to drinking, these salty, crunchy pieces of corn were light and tasty. 

The Food Menu is small, but diverse, and divided into three sections: Starters, Salads and Mains. There might also be some Specials offered, and there were two specials on the evening we dined there. The Starters section has about 8 choices ($10-$16), from Ceviche del Dia to Mussels, Pulpo Al Olivo to Better Than Buffalo Wings. The Salads section has 2 choices ($10-$12) including an Ensalada Amazonica and an Ensalada Mixta Con Quinoa Y Queso Fresco, both which you can add Salmon, Beef Anticucho Skewers, or Grilled Paiche Skewers. The Mains section has 9 choices ($15-$32), including the Tamburguesa (a burger made with Alpaca), Lomo Slatado a Lo Diego (beef tenderloin), Quinoa de Verano (grilled summer veggies & quinoa), and Paiche Amazonico (banana leaf-wrapped Amazonian Paiche).

We began with the Starter of Causa de Mariscos ($16), made from Yellow Peruvian Potato, Seafood of the Day, Rocoto (a type of chili pepper), and Caviaroli (an olive oil). There were three different Causa, each made from a different type of seafood with a different sauce. Such a beautiful presentation. There were thin slices of olive and peppers on the plate, with a couple other sauces, including one very spicy one. The seafood was atop a creamy potato base and each was delicious, with its own unique flavors. The Lobster Causa was my favorite of the three. 

Crabmeat Causa

Baby Shrimp Causa

Lobster Causa

We also opted for one of the Special Starters of the evening, Paiche Anticuchos Skewers ($16). For more info about Paiche, check out my prior article, Paiche, the Ood of the Amazon. In short, it's one of the largest freshwater fish in the world, and is native to South America. Paiche meat is white, firm, relatively boneless, high in Omega-3s and high in protein. It's flesh also possesses a more subtle and elegant taste, which means it is versatile, allowing a wide range of flavor pairings and preparations. If you love seafood, then you should try Paiche. These skewers were scrumptious, such tender and moist, white flaky meat with a nice char. Perfectly prepared, this might even convince a seafood hater to embrace fish. Highly recommended!

Accompanying the Paiche skewers was a fried Yuca, with a huancaina (spicy cheese) sauce. A crisp, fried coating with a fluffier interior, and much lighter than other fried yuca I've tasted before. The sauce added a mild spicy kick which complemented the yuca. 

For Mains, we had the Lomito de Chancho Anticuchero ($22), grilled Pork Tenderloin with Anticucho Sauce and an Aji Amarillo Risotto. The pork was properly tender and meaty, with a great flavor from the anticucho sauce, which added some peppery notes. The risotto had a mild spicy kick to it as well, from its hot yellow pepper paste. It was a hearty dish, which will go well in the fall and winter.

Speaking of perfect comfort food, the Aji De Gallina En Tazon ($22) hit that mark! It's made with slow cooked Pulled Chicken, creamy Peruvian Pepper Sauce, Yellow Peruvian Potato, Q’s Botija Olive Roasted Pecans, Choclo White Rice, and a "Perfect Egg." It is served with a side of white rice, with bits of Choclo (a large-kernel Peruvian corn). I loved this dish, which possessed such a complex and compelling taste, with plenty of tender chicken meat, and bits of extras, from the small potatoes to the pecans. And the egg, with its soft yolk, added even more flavor. It seems like a simple dish, yet there is so much going on and everything works so well together. Highly recommended!

I also ordered one of the Starters as a side, the Yuca Frita ($10), which came with a side of Huancaina Sauce. The Yuca was just as good as the larger piece that came with the Paiche skewers. They were crispy on the outside, but fluffier inside, definitely some of the best fried yuca I've ever had. They are definitely firmer than a regular French Fry, but there's nothing wrong with that in the least. 

Currently, the restaurant doesn't have a Dessert menu, though it will come in the future. However, they did provide a complimentary plate of these tiny cookies, filled with Dulce de Leche. Flaky and light cookies with that sweet and creamy Dulce made for an excellent ending. 

Overall, I was impressed with Tambo 22, and their Peruvian cuisine was well-prepared, aesthetically pleasing, cooked perfectly, and delicious. The blending of interesting Peruvian ingredients delivered some intriguing and different flavors. Prices are reasonable considering the quality, quantity and taste of the dishes. The cocktails were also well made, balanced perfectly and not trying to rely on sweetness to conceal the flavors of the cocktail ingredients. Service was very good too and it was pleasant dining outside. Chef Jose Duarte has created a fine, new restaurant, though I expected as much from such an excellent chef. I can't wait to return, to try more of the menu (like the alpaca burger) and it earns my highest recommendation.  

Have you dined at Tambo 22 yet?

2016: Top Ten Favorite Restaurant Dishes

What were some of my favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2016. I have already posted three Top Ten Wine lists and My Favorite Wine-Related Items. Now I want to move toward food, and showcase my Favorite Restaurant Dishes of the past year.

This list includes ten dishes which I not only enjoyed immensely, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious or something more unique, but all stand out for some particular reason, above the other dishes I have tasted this past year. These are the type of dishes I would order again and again, and which I would highly recommend.

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of memorable dishes I have experienced and/or posted about over the past year. It is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. This list is in alphabetical order, by name of the restaurant, and isn't in any order of preference. For more of my favorite restaurant dishes, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Campanelle with Chorizo Bolognese at Ciao! Pizza & Pasta (Chelsea)
For the second year in a row, this dish has made this list, because it is so absolutely compelling. It is hearty and delicious, with plenty of creaminess in the sauce, lots of spicy meat, and crunchy bits of chorizo. The house-made campanelle pasta is always cooked perfectly and is an excellent vehicle for the bolognese. Whenever I dine at Ciao, I almost always order this dish and it is consistently excellent. I should also note that everything at Ciao, from their other pasta dishes to their pizzas are also consistently excellent and any of those items could easily be on this list too.

Tonkotsu Ramen from OISA Ramen (Boston)
OISA Ramen does pop-ups at various locations and you need to check out one of their upcoming events. Chef Moe Kuroki makes a stellar bowl of Ramen. The plentiful pork belly melts in your mouth, like pork fat butter, and easily falls apart against the edge of a spoon. The broth is savory and complex, with an intense umami element, a salty edge and some heat from a peppery topping. The flavors are deep and balanced and it wasn't too salty in the least. It is like a bowl of liquid pig. The thin noodles have a nice bite to them, a good textural element. I could easily devour a second bowl of this compelling ramen, especially accompanied with an umami-rich Sake, like a Kimoto/Yamahai.

Lamb Carpaccio at Bistro du Midi (Boston)
Bistro du Midi is worthy of more attention that it receives and I've enjoyed a number of excellent meals there. The superb Lamb Carpaccio came with a cured egg yolk, castelvetrano olive, and rice crisps. The thinly sliced venison was silky smooth, with a nice, meaty flavor, and only a hint of a gamey taste (which was a nice addition). This is another dish which I could have enjoyed multiple dishes, chowing down all of that luscious lamb.

Hand Rolled Seaweed Pasta at Tasting Counter (Somerville)
At Tasting Counter, every dish is a work of art, carefully crafted, well-balanced, and delicious. Chef Peter Ungár is one of the top chefs in the Boston area and if you haven't dined here yet, you need to get here as soon as possible. This intriguing pasta dish was made with hen of the woods, sea urchin custard, anchovy, and bonito. It is a taste of the sea, full of umami and briny goodness, with a pleasing earthy element. Any of Chef Ungár's dishes could also end up on this list and I can't recommend Tasting Counter enough.

Neapolitan Wood-Fired Meatball Pizza at Posto (Somerville)
Posto has long produced some of the best pizza in the Boston area and on my last visit, I opted for the  Meatball pizza, with beef, pork & veal, topped by mozzarella, oregano and garlic. It is a hearty-sized pizza, loaded with toppings including ample, thin slices of garlic. The thin, slightly charred crust is delicious, both soft and crisp, and the meatballs are moist and flavorful. And I love all of the garlic atop the pizza. With the chillier temperatures of the season, this is a perfect comfort food, filling your belly and warming your soul.

Lobster Risotto at Ostra (Boston)
During my first visit to Ostra, at a wine lunch, I was entranced with the Lobster Risotto, with heirloom squash puree, which was filled with lots of sweet lobster meat. The rice was cooked perfectly, just that right consistency, and the broth was delicious and flavorful. One of the best Risottos I've had in some time. I need to return to Ostra very soon.

Crab Grilled Cheese at Luke's Lobster (Boston)
Seafood and cheese is a divisive issue in the food world but I think the combination can work with the right ingredients. This Crab Grilled Cheese, with plenty of sweet Crab meat, melted Gruyere cheese, and organic white bread was an excellent comfort food. The thin slices of buttery bread were grilled and crispy while the Gruyere added some creaminess and a nutty touch to the sandwich. The texture of the crab meat worked well, and overall it was tasty and satisfying.

Tater Tots with Bacon & Cheese at First House Pub (Winchester)
Though I haven't yet written my review of First House Pub, they are deserving of a shout-out for this dish. You receive a mound of crisp tater tots, smothered in melted cheese and bacon pieces. The cheese has been layered throughout the dish so almost all of the tater tots are covered. Too many dishes only place cheese atop the dish, leaving much of their dish cheeseless. That isn't the case here. This is top-notch comfort food as well as a nice accompaniment to an evening of drinking.

S'Mores at ArtBar (Cambridge)
In a cast iron skillet, this S'Mores dish was delicious and decadent, a fine blend of melted marshmallows and chocolate, with plenty of graham crackers you could smear with the melted contents. It helped too that we enjoyed it outside, on a slightly chilly evening, with heaters going on the outside patio of the ArtBar.

Devil’s Food Chocolate Sea Salted Caramel Donut at Kane's Donuts (Saugus)
What a fantastic donut! This is a cake donut, with a firm texture and a tasty dark chocolate flavor. This donut also has a creamy frosting with a bright caramel flavor, enhanced by the crunchy salt sprinkled atop the donut. I love the combination of sweet and salty, especially with chocolate, and this donut succeeds well in presenting a hedonistic pleasure. Kane's makes plenty of excellent donuts and this is one of their best creations.

What were some of your favorite restaurant dishes of the past year?