Oka Brand Japanese Bermutto: The First Japanese "Vermouth"

We all know how Japanese whiskey, in less than 100 years, has taken the world by storm, producing some of the world's best expressions, garnering high prices. Japanese gin has also become very popular recently, especially those using indigenous Japanese ingredients. Will Vermouth be the next big thing to come out of Japan?

Vermouth is a fortified and aromatized wine, that has been flavored with a blend of botanicals. In 1786, Antonio Benedetto Carpano, of Turin, Italy, coined the term "vermouth" for a wine flavored with wormwood. However the history of wine with added botanicals has a much lengthier history, extending back thousands of years to the Chinese.

However, Vermouth rarely receives the respect it deserves. As I've said before, "It's a wine with a fascinating history that extends back thousands of years...It can be delicious and complex, intriguing and diverse, and offers a template upon which a producer can put their individual stamp."  Unfortunately, many people don't even realize that it's a wine, thinking it's only a minor ingredient for cocktails. Sure, vermouth works great in cocktails, but it can also be enjoyed on its own, or as the starring ingredient in a cocktail. There are numerous producers taking Vermouth seriously, creating some unique and fascinating Vermouths, from a wide range of base wines and botanicals.

Japan has a lengthy history, going back at least as far back as the 9th century, of adding herbs, spices and other ingredients to Sake. For example, O-toso was a Sake that originally was mixed with eight herbs, including cinnamon bark, rhubarb, sansho, okera, kikyou and others. The word toso literally means “to kill an evil” and was made as a medicine, to promote digestion, lower fevers, suppress coughs and more. It became a New Year tradition, which some Japanese still follow.

According to The Standards of Identity of the Alcohol & Tobacco Trade Tax Bureau (TTB), Vermouth is defined as “a type of aperitif wine compounded from grape wine, having the taste, aroma, and characteristics generally attributed to vermouth, and shall be so designated.” Although these same regulations define Sake as a “wine,” it is not compounded from grape wine, so Sake cannot legally form the basis for Vermouth in the U.S.

The Tsutsumi Distillery, which apparently has created the first modern Sake “Vermouth” in Japan, has found a way to sell it in the U.S. Rather than refer to it as Vermouth, they called it Bermutto, a loanword. Though it's not a traditional Vermouth, it derives from a lengthy history in Japan, and certainly is a fascinating creation which closely resembles a dry, French vermouth.  

The Tsutsumi distillery, located in the Kumamoto prefecture, was established over 140 years ago and its primary business has been the production of Shochu. The World Trade Organization declared that Kuma Shochu (shochu made from just rice) is protected as a geographical indication, and Tsutsumi is one of only 28 distilleries certified to produce Kuma Shochu.

Kumamoto, also known as Hi no Kuni, "the land of fire,” has over 1000 natural springs, and each spring has different water types, from soft to hard, so the local breweries and distilleries get a more unique terroir from their water sources. After World War II, this region was also known for the development of Kumamoto Kobo, a yeast, which eventually became known as the famed Number Nine yeast, said to produce Sake that is “lively and fruity in aromas, and smooth in taste.” This yeast also helped promote Ginjo Sake.

The Oka Brand Japanese Bermutto ($28) is made from a base of Junmai Sake, which is fortified with Kuma Shochu, a 100% rice Shochu, and has an 18% ABV. Four botanicals are added to it, including Yuzu, Kabosu, Sansho & Yomogi. Yuzu is an aromatic citrus, which adds some acidity as well to the blend. Kabosu is also a type of citrus, with lots of acidity, and has a juicy, sharp taste. Sanshō is a type of Japanese peppercorn while Yomogi is known as mugwort, or Japanese wormwood, adding that typical Vermouth taste. 

The bottle has an interesting label, with a winged cherub, sitting atop a frog, carrying the Japanese flag. The label also lists all four of the botanicals within the Bermutto.  

Tasting it on its own, the Bermutto has a prominent yuzu/citrus aroma, with a subtle herbal accent, and on the palate, it is dry and the yuzu/citrus remains the main flavor, with hints of herbal notes and a mildly bitter finish from the Yomogi. That bitterness is much more restrained than the wormwood taste found in many other vermouths. I also feel that the Bermutto lacks some of the depth of complexity possessed by some other artisan Vermouths. 

I chose to mix it with some club soda, which I've done before with other vermouths, making it the star of the drink. It worked very well, making a refreshing and tasty drink, bright with citrus, and it would probably work well with white liquors like vodka and gin. If you want a dry martini, the Bermutto would be a fine substitute for your usual vermouth. 

I hope that Japan continues to produce their own variations of "vermouth," using their indigenous botanicals to create unique and compelling drinks. The Oka Bermutto is a good start but there is a vast potential which Japan can tap. 

Historical Tidbits About Shochu In The U.S.

In April 2012, Sake and Shochu were declared by the Japanese government to be "national alcoholic beverages." The idea behind this decision was to help local economies, increase the demand for rice, and boost export sales. Motohisa Furukawa, the state minister for national policy, stated. "Sake and shochu are part of the Japanese culture of taking pride in high-quality rice and water. I'm confident [they] could develop into an export industry capable of penetrating the global market."

Though Sake is relatively well known in the U.S., and consumption continues to increase each year, familiarity with Shochu is much less common. There are Shochu advocates trying to promote this intriguing spirit, and I strongly recommend that you try to experience Shochu, expanding your palate and being adventurous.

In short, Shochu is a distilled alcohol, which can be produced from a variety of ingredients, including rice, chestnuts, sweet potato, milk, brown sugar, sesame, and more. The term "shochu" is written with the Chinese characters for “fiery liquor.” Like Sake, Koji is used during the fermentation process of Shochu. Its alcohol content commonly ranges from 50 to 90 proof (the legal maximum, dependent on the type of Shochu), and though it is commonly clear on color, there are varieties which possess some color too. It's important to know that Shochu is a diverse beverage, with many different flavor profiles, and it's fun to explore all of its varieties.

Shochu is generally separated into two categories, dependent on whether it undergoes a single distillation or multiple ones. Otsurui is distilled once and korui is distilled several times. Otsurui has a more distinctive aroma and flavor. It is more often enjoyed on the rocks. This type may also be referred to as honkaku, or "authentic," shochu, because it’s the original style. Koshu, as it is lighter and cleaner, is more often mixed in cocktails. Perhaps its most popular form is the chu-hi, a shochu high ball made using numerous fruit flavors. It can be found in single-serving cans or mixed fresh at bars and pubs. Another way to enjoy either type is known as oyu-wari, which is simply mixing it with a bit of hot water. This reduces the alcohol flavor, strengthens others flavors and warms the body.

It is thought that the origins of Shochu extend back in Japan to around the 16th century. During the 18th century, with the introduction of the sweet potato to Japan, shochu made from sweet potato started to be made. This is important as many consider sweet potato Shochu to be the best type. Today, Shochu is produced in all 47 of Japan’s prefectures, but the primary centers of production are Kyushu Island and Okinawa Prefecture.

What is the history of Shochu in the U.S.? Let's examine some of that history, to see how Americans perceived Shochu. 

The first reference I found was in A Treatise on Chemistry, vol. 3 (1881), by Henry Enfield Roscoe. The author stated, "The preparation of rice-spirit, or shochu, is conducted in Japan according to the following primitive plan. Rice is allowed to undergo a peculiar kind of fermentation: this yields the beverage called sake (from ki, spirit), containing from 11 to 15 per cent alcohol. The residue, after pressing out the sake moistened with some poor qualities of sake, is then submitted to distillation,.." He then continued, "The spirit thus obtained contains from 36 to 40 per cent of alcohol."

As we know, in 1854, Commodore Matthew Perry forced Japan to sign a treaty opening trade between the two countries. At that time, many Americans were curious about Japan, desirous of learning more about that country and its ways. Initially, Sake took center stage as it was the primary alcoholic drink of Japan, served to Americans visiting Japan and attending formal functions. It took longer for Americans to learn about Shochu, especially as it was considered more of a drink for peasants. As presented in the Treatise, Shochu was made from the dregs of Sake production, a distilled spirit which was about 72-80 proof.

The first newspaper reference I located was in the St. Johnsbury Caledonian (VT), October 1, 1885, which published an article on Japanese beverages. The article noted, "In our country there is another liquor, called shochu. This is a clear tasteless distilled liquor; its toxology is tremendous. Hundreds of the people were are ruined by the dreadful drink. It is said that after taking shochu, to drink water or to wade a stream is dangerous." This is a rather unflattering depiction of Shochu, by a Japanese native, and certainly wouldn't entice any American to try it.

The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), October 3, 1893, related the tale of the island of Okushiri, located in the Sea of Japan. In 1885, the island had a tiny population of only 260, but they annually consumed $3000 of Sake, Shochu and other alcohol. It was stated that 9 out of 10 men were addicted to alcohol, and the people finally got together to change matters, making a contract, pledging to never drink again. The contract was for a term of five years, and it was renewed for another five. After making this contract, and abiding by its provisions, the island proposed, doing far better economically than when they were spending so much money on alcohol. This article was reprinted in other newspapers, in New York, South Carolina, Indiana, Maryland and Illinois.

This incident, without some of the identifying details, was discussed in the San Antonio Daily Light (TX), November 27, 1894. The article stated, "An island in the Japan sea...exists where the fishermen population who were formerly addicted to the inordinate consumption of alcoholic beverages have reformed and converted the place into an earthly paradise. The islanders were enamored of sake and shochu, those being the names of their local poison,.."

As an aside, we'll note that in the Laws and Regulations Relating to Taxation of Japan (1905), in Article I-6, it stated, "The word 'Shochu' in this law is held to mean liquor or spirits obtained by distilling the lees of Seishu." Seishu is the legal term for Sake, so we see that Shochu was made from Sake lees. However, the Article continues, noting that "Those obtained by distilling the following liquors are considered to be 'Shochu.': 1) Seishu; 2) Dakushu; 3) Lees of Mirin; 4) Those obtained after fermentation by using rice, mugi (wheat, barley, or rye), kibi (millet), hiye or sweet potato and koji and water as material or by adding shukobo." This seemed to extend the basic definition of Shochu beyond just using Sake lees, and included items such as the use of sweet potato. Such other items though were probably much rarer than the use of Sake lees.

During the first decade of the 20th century, mentions of Shochu were rare and brief. The Hartford Courant (CT), June 26, 1905, stated, "The only distilled liquor produced in that country (Japan) is shochu, distilled from rice." The Chicago Daily News (NE), February 10, 1906, noted "...there is a stronger kind called shochu, which contains as much as 50 per cent of alcohol." 

The Democrat & Chronicle (NY), May 21, 1910, mentioned that in Japan there was "A stronger variety, shochu, contains from 20 to 50 per cent of alcohol." This last article, about alcoholic beverages in the "Far East," was reprinted in many other newspapers during this time.

Sweet potato Shochu. The Evening Sun (MD), September 22, 1921, discussed the island of Hachijojima, located in the Pacific Ocean between Japan and the Bonin Islands. On the island, they  grew only sweet potatoes and rice. For many years, there wasn't a tax on liquor and one of the inhabitants, A. S. Yamada, created a monopoly on alcohol production. However, soon after that, Tokyo banned the manufacture and sale of alcohol. After the ban, many islanders wasted their money on alcohol, facing economic ruin, including Sake and "moonshine shochu, which is a strong spirit brewed of sweet potatoes."

This is the first reference to sweet potato Shochu outside of the mention in the Japanese law. The previous references had been to Sake made from rice, Sake lees. And the connection of Shochu and sweet potato would be mentioned numerous times in future articles, while mentions of rice Shochu would decrease dramatically.

The Detroit Times (MI), January 13, 1935, published an article on life in Japanese, including family life. The article briefly noted, "The head of the family alone enjoys his glass of 'shochu,' an alcoholic brew stronger and saki, which is rice wine." 

For example, the St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), June 10, 1945 presented an article on Okinawa, mentioning that the men ".. take their relaxation almost entirely in drinking shochu, a liquor distilled from sweet potatoes which is cheaper, more potent and more plentiful than the Japanese sake. In dry seasons a bottle of good water can be traded even for a bottle of shochu." The Springfield Republican, June 10, 1945 also had an article on Okinawans, mentioning, "It is considered normal and manly for men to get beastly drunk on shochu, the strong drink of the islanders made from sweet potatoes, but women must not drink."

The Lockwood Luminary (MO), September 13, 1945 published an article on the Ryuku Islands, which includes Okinawa. It stated, "Drunkenness and imorality are the besetting vices of the men of the Archipelago. Ryukyu awamori, distilled from rice, has a higher alcoholic content than sake. Shochu 'burning liquor' distilled from sweet potatoes, is plentiful and cheaper." In short, Shochu was cheap and potent, made from sweet potatoes, and its consumption was limited to men.

The St. Louis Globe-Democrat (MO), November 20, 1948, noted that "All potatoes, white or sweet, can be made into a crude form of liquor that will stun like a blackjack." The article continued, "On Okinawa, natives use sweet potatoes to make their 'burning liquor' called Shochu."

Shochu as a Sake substitute. The Arkansas Democrat (AR), January 10, 1952, stated, "Shochu, made from sweet potatoes, is being widely used in Japan as a substitute for saki, the favorite wine, because of the rice shortage." This is another brief article that was reprinted in numerous other American newspapers across the country.

The San Angelo Standard-Times (TX), September 29, 1953, printed an article on Japanese culture, from motorists to Buddhists, and included information on their alcoholic beverages. There was a discussion of Saki, and then a brief reference to Shochu. "There is a distilled spirit, a saki brandy called shochu which is used by the poor who want a quick cheap buzz and as a libation for the departed spirits in the Shinto shrines."

A fascinating historical fact was mentioned in the Honolulu Advertiser (HI), October 10, 1954. It noted that, "An interesting fact in Japanese medical history is that sword wounds were treated with a 100-proof spirit distilled from sake called shochu preceding today's use of alcohol for cleansing purposes by several hundred years."

A terrifying Shochu incident. The Omaha World-Herald (NE), March 26, 1955, discussing a Tokyo AP article, noted that, "Shochu, a low grade sake made from sweet potatoes, killed five persons and blinded two others this week." No details were provided on this incident but it certainly wouldn't encourage any American to try Shochu.

Shochu moonshine. The Tampa Bay Times (FL), June 30, 1956, discussed a reporter in Japan who accompanied the police on a raid seeking illegal alcohol. The raid was successful and recovered a bunch of moonshine. "Moonshine is common in Japan and widely practiced by Koreans--" It was then mentioned, "Many liquor lovers got blind or killed when they drank methyl alcohol in moonshine when liquor was scarce right after the war." It was also noted that "..the moonshiners make cheap and strong (sometimes over 100 per cent proof) stuff called Shochu."

The Charleston News & Courier (SC), May 11, 1958 published that, "Shochu, the poor man's sake, originally was made from sake mash, but the modern version is a product of potato and other grains. Its alcoholic content is about 35 per cent or 70 proof." Again, we see that Shochu is cheap, something for the lower classes who couldn't afford Sake. It was interesting to see that Shochu wasn't commonly made any longer from Sake lees and other ingredients were now far more common.

Massaging cattle with Shochu? The Illinois State Journal (IL), December 1, 1962, mentioned that Japanese cattlemen fed their cattle beer and massaged them with "... shochu (Japanese gin)..." They claimed that the massages "... make the steers' blood more active."

The Las Vegas Review-Journal (NV), September 5, 1966, discussed the area of Sanya, Tokyo's "skid row." About 13,000 people, many who are Koreans, lived in flophouses in this area. It was noted, "Their diet consists of rice and noodle dishes, on which a filling meal can be made for as little as 30 yen (about 10 cents). They customarily drink Shochu, a raw liquor distilled from potatoes." The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), May 23, 1968, also discussed the Eta, the social outcasts of Japan, mentioning that they drink shochu, "... a kind of white lightning sake which sells for 40 yen (11 cents) a shot..."

The Atlanta Journal (GA), November 26, 1972, ran an article about Kagoshima, Japan. It was mentioned that, "They even have a sort of 'white lightning' in Kagoshima. It's a potent version of sake, Japan's most popular alcoholic beverage. This old Satsuma supersake is called shochu, and most Japanese abhor it. Kagoshimans down it with gusto."

Shochu statistics. The Greensboro Record (NC), March 16, 1973, detailed statistics on Japan's alcoholic consumption in 1972. Beer, the most popular drink, constituted 61.4% while Sake was in second place at 29.8%. Shochu, "a cheap distillate," constituted only 3.6%, with whisky at 2.7%;, and other alcoholic beverages at 2.5%. So, it's clear now that Shochu consumption was quite low in Japan, especially compared to beer and Sake.

Shochu consumption decreases. A year later, the San Francisco Chronicle (CA), March 31, 1974, noted that in Japan, whisky and brandy consumption now constituted 11% of the market, while "shochu, an inexpensive vodka-like spirit distilled from sweet potatoes" had seen its market share decrease by half. Already at a low amount, decreasing even further certainly wasn't good for Shochu, and it almost seemed it could end up as more of a footnote in the Japanese history of alcohol.

The Seattle Daily Times (WA), March 13, 1977, discussed the island of Kyushu, mentioning the popularity of Shochu. "Shochu is distilled from rice or sweet potatoes, unlike sake, which is brewed from rice in a process more like the manufacture of beer.." The article continued, "Shochu resembles the alcoholic drinks of China more than anything else. This may be due to the trading links which Kyushu developed with China some 1,500 years ago." The article also mentioned the potency of Shochu, that it can be 90 proof plus.

Shochu and snakes? The Abilene Reporter-News (TX), October 22, 1977, reported on Masuzo Nezu, aged 72, who created a drink with 70 proof Shochu and a batch of poisonous snakes, known as habu. This drink is supposed to contribute to longevity and sexual potency. However, about an hour after Masuzo placed 12 snakes into the shochu, one of the allegedly dead snakes came to life and bit him on a finger. He went to the hospital and was in fair condition. "The habu is common to the Okinawa islands of southern Japan, and sells for about $15 for use in the shochu drink. Shochu is made from potatoes and grain."

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Shochu and longevity. The Honolulu Advertiser (HI), September 13, 1978, discussed a possible connection between Shochu and long life. It stated, "Japan's oldest citizen, Shigechiyo Izumi, 113, says the secret to good health is moderate exercise, a lack of worries and a daily glass of shochu, a strong distilled spirit made from rice or potatoes, which 'helps me feel relaxed.' A year later, the Sacramento Bee (CA), September 16, 1979, mentioned that Izumi drinks a half-pint of warm Shochu daily, and at his 114th birthday, there was much Shochu at his party.

Interestingly, a Shochu distillery tried to capitalize on Izumi, using his likeness on the label of their "Long Life" Shochu. However, the Sydney Morning Herald (Australia), November 14, 1979, noted that Izumi contested the unauthorized use of his likeness, and he received an out of court settlement, which included a cash award of 200,000 yen, and he also would receive 1500 bottles of Shochu on an annual basis. The distillery probably thought that Izumi couldn't live much longer so they wouldn't have to give him too many bottles. They probably never suspected they might have to eventually give him about 10,000 bottles.

The Spokane Chronicle (WA), June 29, 1983, detailed that Izumi had celebrated his 118th birthday, mentioning that he had been born June 29, 1865, the same year that the Civil War ended in the U.S. Izumi was documented in the Guinness Book of World Records as the world's oldest man. And he was still receiving 1,500 bottles of Shochu each year. The Tyler Courier-Times (TX), February 1, 1985, noted that Izumi prefers a kind of Shochu made from black sugar. Unfortunately, the Alabama Journal, February 21, 1986, mentioned that Izumi had passed, though the cause of death was not yet known. He was 120 years old, and he had always claimed that Shochu was one of the reasons for his long, long life.

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Shochu and Horse Sushi? The State-Journal Register (IL), July 20, 1979, in an article on the consumption of horse in Japan, noted, "Connoisseurs claim that top-grade raw horse has excellent body and a light taste. They say it goes well with 'shochu,' powerful distilled spirits also popular among the young." Quite an interesting pairing, and probably one you'll never find in the U.S.

In the Charleston News & Courier (SC), September 5, 1980, there was an advertisement for Pier 1, the home decor store, noting the sale of "Showy Shochu and Sake bottles." The ad said shochu was a "sweet potato brew" and that the ceramic bottles sold for $7.99 each.

Shochu consumption rising. The Pacific Daily News (Guam), April 23, 1984, discussed some statistics on Japanese alcohol consumption, noting that beer was still #1, at 66.4%, and Sake was still #2, at 19.8%. However, Shochu had seen a 30.2% rise, and it now constituted 5.2% of the total, whole whisky & wine were at 5.1%. Even with Shochu's large surge, it still was only a small percentage of the total.

The Indianapolis News (IN), August 18, 1984, noted that Shochu had gained popularity in recent years, causing some concern to beer producers. The article also mentioned how John Travolta had recently done a commercial for Shochu.

More statistics. The Los Angeles Times, August 21, 1984, stated that back in 1947, beer had replaced Sake as the most popular alcoholic drink in Japan. Since that time, Sake had only regained first place twice, and the last time that occurred was in 1955. Last year, beer constituted about 67% of the total and Sake was only at 20%.

Maybe the most lengthy and detailed, as well as very positive, Shochu article to first appear in U.S. newspapers was in the Tyler Courier-Times (TX), February 1, 1985, which discussed the new popularity of Shochu. This article would also be published in numerous other newspapers round the country. The article stated, "A colorless concoction once derided as lower class swill is toppling traditional tipples as Japanese drinkers join the worldwide trend to light alcoholic beverages." Shochu sales were increasing by about 15% each year, while Sake sales were declining by about 2% each year. Whiskey sales, which had peaked in 1980, had recently been flat. It also noted that Shochu sales by volume had overtaken domestic whiskey in 1983.

The article mentioned that there were two types of Shochu, Type A and Type B. Type A, "about 50 proof, is a colorless, tasteless, odorless distilled grain alcohol diluted with water and very similar to vodka." It is popular with young people, who commonly use it in cocktails. Type A was marketed as far back as 1910, to utilize excess alcohol. Type B "is more traditional and distilled from rice, barley or sweet potatoes, or even sesame, black sugar, or chestnuts, and ranges from 40 to 72 proof." It is more popular with middle-aged and older people. The most popular way to consume it in the winter is in a glass with hot water.

The article also stated, "true shochu connoisseurs can spend whole evenings comparing the merits of spirits from different areas." It continued, "Shochu is not only trendy, it's a lot cheaper because it is lightly taxed." For example, top grade whiskey is taxed at 50.3%, top shelf Sake at 40.1%, and beer at 48.8%. Type A Shochu though is taxed at 14.4% and Type B at only 8.7%. A huge difference which is reflected in Shochu's much lower price.

The National Post (Ontario, Canada), May 18, 1985, detailed some of Japan's latest alcohol consumption statistics for 1984. Beer was still the most popular beverage, at 65%, while Sake was still in second place, though at only 19%, down 9% from 1983. Shochu now constituted 8%, a 40% increase from 1983. Whiskey was only 4%, losing some of its market share to Shochu.

For some current statistics, we note that in 2008, 970 million liters of Shochu were produced, but that has been decreasing since then, as in 2017, total production was down to 820 million liters. In 2017, Sake consumption in Japan had dropped down to about 5.6%, a big fall since 1985, while Shochu consumption was now 8.16%, meaning Shochu was more popular than Sake, though Shochu consumption still was relatively low.

In 2018, the Nikkei Asian Review noted statistics on Shochu exports to the U.S. in 2017. First, it was mentioned that Sake exports to the U.S. came to 6 billion yen ($53.4 million) and whisky exports were worth 3.7 billion yen. Shochu exports though were only 390 million yen (about $3.5 million). So, Shochu is only a tiny niche beverage in the U.S., with lots of room for growth.

For more detailed information on Shochu, there are two excellent books on the subject:

•  The Complete Guide to Japanese Drinks by Stephen Lyman and Chris Bunting
•  The Shochu Handbook by Christopher Pellegrini. 

There is two Shochu distilleries in North America, including:

•  Hawaiian Shochu Company, which was established in 2013, and is located on the island of Oahu. They produce the Nami Hana brand, made primarily with locally grown sweet potatoes.
• American Shochu Company, which is located in Frederick, Maryland. They produce Umai! Shochu ("umai" means "delicious"), an organic barley shochu. 

In addition, a couple other companies in the U.S. have made Shochu. Last year, the Colorado Sake Company collaborated with the Ironton Distillery to make Sai Shochu. St. George's Spirits, in Alameda, California, have created the St. George California Shochu, distilled from sake lees. I haven't tasted Shochu from any of these companies yet but I'm intrigued.

My top Shochu recommendation is the Tenshi no Yuwaku, 8 Year (pictured at the top of this post), which is made from 83% Sweet Potato and 17% Rice. It was aged in Sherry casks for about 8 years, which is rare as few Shochu are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. It is rich, creamy and smooth, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity. Simply sublime.

(Revised/Expanded as of June 22, 2023)

Kamakura & Kumo Sky Bar: A Passion For Japanese Drinks

Chilled Sake, Warm Sake, Shochu, Japanese Koshu wine, Japanese Whiskey, Japanese beer, Japanese-inspired cocktails. There are very few local restaurants or bars which offer nearly all of these choices, and only one place that offers all of them.

That restaurant is Kamakura, located at 150 State Street in Boston. Chef Youji Iwakura has created a compelling Japanese restaurant, offering his take on Kaiseki (basically a seasonal tasting menu) as well as a la carte choices, Bento Boxes, Sushi Omakase, and more. Dining there is a superb experience with some of the finest Japanese cuisine available in the area. The restaurant is spread out over three stories, with the top story being their Kumo Sky Bar & Lounge.

I recently attended a media cocktail party at their Kumo Sky Bar, though I have also visited the bar previously on my own. The bar has about 26 seats, with several seats looking out into the city, a number of seats at the bar, and a number of small tables. This bar has a 400-square foot, retractable glass roof, which should get plenty of use this summer, and presents quite a great view during both day and night. "Kumo" is the Japanese word for "cloud," and with its retractable roof, you certainly get a nice view of the clouds when they are in the sky,

It is an intimate room, and can be booked for special events. It is also a great place to just grab a drink and a snack any night.

The Drinks program at Kamakura, which is available throughout the restaurant including the Kumo Sky Bar, is strong on Japanese beverages, offering much that is delicious, interesting and unique. This is a great place to expand your palate, to sample exciting new drinks you know little about. The staff at Kamakura can help educate you about these drinks, and provide plenty of suggestions for you. And for those who are already familiar with these Japanese drinks, you'll find some more unique items to thrill your palate.

They have a list of ten Featured Cocktails, priced $13-$18, with one outlier at $34. The cocktails change seasonally and all have a Japanese aspect to them, whether it is the main spirit or one of the ingredients. A few of the cocktails include the John Manjiro (Iwai Whisky, Choya, Cherry, $14), Murasaki (Empress 1908 Gin, Sake, Floral Vermouth, $16) and Shoyu What I Got (Blanco Tequila, Mezcal, Choya, Sea Fennel, Aged Shoyu, Orange Bitters, $14). Aged shoyu? How many cocktails have you ever seen that use soy sauce as an ingredient? Choya is Japanese plum wine. I like the innovativeness of these cocktails. Most of the media at the cocktail party ordered cocktails, and I heard many compliments about their taste.

If you'd prefer a Non-Alcoholic Cocktail, they have three choices, all priced $10 each. You could opt for a Matcha Tonic (Matcha, Simple Syrup, Tonic Water), Cucumber Rickey (Fresh Cucumber Juice, Lime, Spritz), or a Lychee Collins (Lychee syrup, Soda, Citrus).

Of course they have a Sake menu, both by the glass and by the bottle. There are about 15 selections by the glass, broken down into two main categories: Junmai and Honjozo, the primary divisions of Premium Sake. There is also a single American-produced Sake. The Sake by the glass is available as a 4 ounce ($11-$35) or 6 ounce ($16-$52) pour. They also offer Junmai and Honjozo flights, each with 3 Sakes, for $38, which is an excellent way to sample a variety of Sakes. A few of the interesting Sakes I'd recommend include the Yuho Junmai Kimoto, Katsuyama Ken Junmai Ginjo, and Musashino Nyukon Tokubetsu Honjozo. You'll also find one Sake on tap, the Bushido Ginjo Genshu, 4-oz $12/6-oz $18, which I've enjoyed on a previous visit.

There are about 21 options for Sake by the Bottle, which come in various sizes such as 300ml, 500ml, and 720ml. About 60% of the options cost less than $100 a bottle, though you could splurge as well on the Hideyoshi "Flying Pegasus" Daiginjo at $560/720ml. You could opt to celebrate with some Sparkling Sake, such as the Dassai Sparkling Junmai Nigori ($62/360ml), which is one of my favorite Sparkling Sakes. The Hakkaisan Snow Aged Junmai Ginjo ($140/720ml) is a hedonistic pleasure I've previously reviewed.

A couple months ago, I recommended that people drink more Warm Sake, and Kamakura is a great place to experience it. They have 5 choices of Warm Sake, available in 5 ounce ($14-32) or 10 ounce ($28-$64) chirori, metal vessels. They serve the Sakes at what they suggest as the ideal temperature, from 104 to 113 degrees, but you can ask for a specific temperature if you so desire.

Of their five options, my favorite is the Shinkame "Holy Turtle" Tokubetsu Junmai, 2 year aged (5 oz $20/10 oz $40). Yoshimasa Ogawahara is the 7th generation owner of Shinkame Shuzo, a Sake brewery located in the Saitama Prefecture. I have the privilege to meet and interview him back in 2014. He told me that Sake is the only alcohol in the world where the taste varies according to a wide variety of temperatures, both hot and cold. He also stated that warm Sake pairs well with a diversity of cuisines and not just Japanese. During the cocktail party, I once again enjoyed some of the warm Shinkame and highly recommend it as an experience more people should try.

Kamakura has a small Wine List, with about 12 options, including 10 available by the glass ($12-$22). The options include 3 Sparkling Wines (all French), 4 Whites, 1 Rosé, and 4 Reds. Of the 12 wines, 7 are from France, 2 from California, 1 from Germany, 1 from Washington, and 1 from Japan. The wines aren't the usual suspects, and present some interesting and classic choices, from German Riesling to French Rhone wines.

What is unique though is that they carry a Japanese wine, the 2017 Chateau Mercian Yamanashi Koshu (glass $19/ bottle $76), and they are the only restaurant in Massachusetts to carry this wine. Nine years ago, I attended a tasting of Japanese Koshu wines at Uni, and that was also the first time I met Chef Youji Iwakura. You can read my previous article for more information about the Koshu grape. This was an excellent summer wine, with plenty of acidity, bright citrus and peach notes, a streak of mineralogy, and a pleasing and fairly lengthy finish. There was a mild richness to the wine as well as a touch of salinity. This would pair great with seafood, including raw oysters. Highly recommended!

Their Beer list is also small, with a rotating selection of Draft Beer, including the Lamplighter ($9).  By the bottle/can, they have 3 Japanese beers, including the Orion ($8), Koshihikari ($11), and Ginga-Kogen ($16).

Check out their list of Featured Spirits which includes some local options, like Bully Boy (vodka, gin and rum) as well as Japanese Gin (Nikka Coffey and Ki No Bi Kyoto), which is the hot new alcohol coming out of Japan. They also have about 10 Japanese Whiskies, and you can order a Flight of 3 for $35. I enjoyed a glass of the Nikka Miyagikyo Single Malt, a fine sipping whiskey with fruity notes, a hint of smoke, subtle spice notes, and a noticeable influence of Sherry.

Kamakura also has a menu of Shochu, a distilled Japanese alcohol, with 6 options and you can order a Flight of 3 for $18. Most of their Shochu selections are made from sweet potato, which is often considered to be the ingredients that makes the best Shochu. My favorite on their list is the Tenshi no Yuwaku, 8 Year ($21), made from 83% Sweet Potato and 17% Rice. It was fermented in Sherry casks for about 8 years, which is rare as few Shochu are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. I enjoyed it neat, finding it rich, creamy and smooth, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity. This is the first time I've seen this Shochu available in a Massachusetts restaurant. Highly recommended!

To sample what Kamakura has to offer, rather than opting for the multi-course Kaiseki dinner, you can always check out the Kumo Sky Bar to have drinks and small plates. You'll have a great view of the city while enjoying a large variety of Japanese drinks. Be adventurous and try some Japanese Koshu wine, aged Shochu, warm Sake, or a premium chilled Sake.

Torishin: A Yakitori Paradise

If you're seeking an exceptional restaurant in New York City, then I must give one of my heartiest recommendation to Torishin.

While planning our recent visit to New York City, my good friend Adam Japko made reservations for us to visit Torishin. He'd dined there before and been thoroughly impressed, knowing that I would appreciate it. Before our visit, Pete Wells of the New York Times wrote a stellar review of Torishin, giving it three stars. After I dined there, I fully understood the reasons for the raves as it is an exceptional restaurant, offering yakitori that elevates chicken to new heights.

The name of the restaurant breaks down into “Tori,” which means “chicken,” and “Shin,” which means “spirit.” And that spirit of the chicken permeates the restaurant. It is a Japanese yakitori, "grilled chicken," restaurant, and originated in Tokyo, Japan, with an outpost established in New York City back in 2007. They specialize in using traditional methods to prepare and cook every part of the chicken, wasting nothing. I actually wouldn't have been surprised if they had found a way to use chicken feathers. The chickens they use are organic, and their other ingredients, such as their vegetables, are often locally sourced except much of their seafood which comes from the seas of Japan.

Their grilled chicken are cooked over Kishu Binchotan, a traditional Japanese charcoal that releases larger quantities of infrared rays, allowing the meat to get crispy outside while remaining moist and juicy inside. It burns at a lower temperature, but for a longer time, than regular charcoal and also doesn't release lots of smoke. Cooking over these binchotan is a skill, and you will see the chef at the grill, frequently fanning it throughout the evening, keeping the charcoals hot.

As you enter the restaurant, there's a small bar to the immediate left and then you proceed through a doorway into the main dining area or you can go upstairs to a smaller dining area. In the regular dining areas, you can order the yakitori and organic vegetable skewers a la carte, generally priced $4-$8 each. You also have the option of a 10 Skewer Set (with 7 meats & 3 veggies) for $65 or an Omakase for $70. In addition, they offer some Small Plates ($6-$27), including dishes such as Grilled Organic Edamame, Broiled Sea Urchin with Garlic, Chawanmushi and Homemade Chicken Cha-shu. There are also several Rice Dishes ($17-$22), such as Oyako Don and Ume Chazuke.

We though had reservations at the Select Counter, basically a chef's table with only eight seats at a counter and where you are served a superb omakase dinner. The counter is made from Hinoki wood, Japanese cypress, which is considered a sacred material. Chef Atsushi Kono (pictured above) presides over the grill, and spent nearly all of the evening in front of the grill, cooking all of the yaiktori to perfection. The Chef had two assistants at the Select Counter and we interacted more with them, as they prepared, plated and served us the various dishes we would enjoy. We also had a server, who worked only in the Select Counter room, providing us attentive and responsive service. All of this combined to transform  this from a mere dinner to a more expansive dining experience.

Torishin has a full bar, from Wine to Beer, Japanese Whiskey to Shochu. Their Sake list has about 21 options, with more than half available by the glass. There is a good variety of Sake, prices are generally reasonable, and some of them are offered hot. Over the course of the evening, we ordered two different Sakes, and both were quite good though very different. The Harada Muroka Namagenshu Junmai Ginjo ($110/bottle) had a round mouthfeel with some delightful berry flavors along with floral elements. The Fukuju Junmai Ginjo ($75/bottle) was superb, with a dry, clean and elegant taste with plenty of fruit notes. It was silky smooth, drinking so easily, and I could have sat all night drinking this Sake. Highly recommended.

On their drinks list, you'll also find they carry about 12 Shochu, most made from Sweet Potato, and all available by the glass or bottle. Before going to Torishin, I spoke with Stephen Lyman, a Shochu expert, seeking some recommendations. He noted that Torishin is one of his favorite restaurants and he gave me some Shochu recs, which I'll discuss later in this post.

As you sit at the Select Counter, you'll find in front of you a few containers of soy sauce, sansho (Japanese pepper) and shichimi (a Japanese spice blend). Though you can use these condiments on any of the skewers or dishes you receive, the Chef's assistants give advice on when they recommend you use certain condiments with specific items. We followed their advice, figuring they knew best how to season the various skewers and dishes.

The Omakase ($150/per person) offers the seven skewers in the box above, with your choice of either a King Crab Leg or Kumamoto A5 Beef. In addition, you'll receive a number of other dishes and also get a choice of a rice dish, like Oyako Don, or a soup, like Ramen. During the course of the dinner, we also ordered a few extra skewers a la carte, to sample more of the various chicken parts. It's the type of restaurant where you want to sit and sample everything they have to offer.

During the course of our dinner, I took numerous photos but I didn't take any notes. I was primarily there to enjoy the experience, and not write a detailed review. Plus, I wanted to eat each skewer as soon as it was put before me, garnering the maximum amount of pleasure. So, you won't find many notes accompanying the following photos but I can't stress enough how delicious and exceptional the experience was that evening. Much of the food was prepared relatively simply, but the high quality ingredients and perfect execution of cooking techniques elevated these items far above the ordinary. The chef was able to extract so much flavor in many of these items, including more unusual body parts that you might not even consider to be edible.

Ever had chicken arteries?

This was our first taste, an Eggplant dish, and though I'm not a huge fan of eggplant, this was a tasty item, with some creaminess and slightly bitter notes.

The next dish was killer, two pieces of lightly seared fish and grilled bamboo shoots. Both of the fish were from the waters off Japan, and the middle piece is Rosy Seabass though I don't recall the name of the other fish. However, both were excellent, tender, melt-in-you-mouth seafood. The bamboo shoots were also tender, with a nice crunchy texture, and a nutty, savory taste. Torishin might be best known for its chicken, but their seafood is exceptional as well.

The first two yakitori skewers included Chicken Liver and Tenderloin. The liver was tender and earthy, with a silky texture. The tenderloin pieces were more flavorful than much of the chicken you are probably used to, with a very light sear. Relative simplicity but so much flavor.

The Neck meat was also tender and flavorful, with some crunchier, charred pieces adding to the taste.

The Baby Corn was tender and slightly crunchy, a nice intermission before additional chicken skewers.

This is the Main Artery, actually comprised of the arteries from 6 chickens. I was surprised at how tasty this was, with a lightly chewy texture (which I expected to be far more chewy). This was actually one of my favorite skewers of the evening.

This small fish was prepared with a light tempura and accompanied by a green veggie, also tempura. It resembled a flying fish caught in a tree. Again though, this was an excellent and delicious dish, with a light and crunchy tempura and the meaty fish.

Next, were some slices of Kumamoto A5 Beef with a couple potato slices. The beef was very tender and moist, with compelling flavors.

The King Crab Leg was sweet and tender.

These grilled Tomatoes impressed, despite their simplicity. When I popped one in my mouth, and bit into it, my mouth was filled by the hot, sweet and acidic juices inside of the tomato. A burst of umami that went well with the Sake.

I wasn't as crazy about this dish with Chicken Gizzards, more of a texture issue than flavor-wise.

Besides the chicken, the restaurant also has Quail, which was tender and meaty, with a bit of a gamier taste than the chicken, and some nice crispy skin elements.

The Chicken Oyster is the small piece of dark meat on either side of the chicken's backbone, and is considered by many to be the best part of the chicken. It certainly was full of flavor, moist and tender, with a nice char. I certainly would have enjoyed a few more skewers of this.

The Chicken & Duck Meatball was accompanied by an egg and they suggested you stir up the yolk and dunk the meatball into the yolk. The meatball was amazing, moist and meaty, and didn't need anything more but the yolk actually enhanced the meatball.

The Knee Gristle wasn't as tough as you might expect and had plenty of flavor.

Two more skewers and I'm not exactly sure what they are, though I do recall both were tasty and well cooked.

For our rice or soup dish, we opted for the Tsukemen, a type of ramen where you dip your noodles in a separate bowl of broth, and you can see the broth bowl above. The slightly chewy noodles were excellent, and the broth was full of umami and intense flavor. Tsukemen is certainly a way to ensure your noodles don't get too soft from continually sitting in a bowl of broth.

We then ended our dinner with a choice of desserts. I opted for the Shiso (Japanese Mojito) Sorbet because I was planning to have a glass of Shochu, the Tenshi no Yuwaku ($18/glass). Shochu expert Stephen Lyman recommended the pairing so I took his advice. The Tenshi no Yuwaku is a sweet potato Shochu which was fermented in Sherry casks for about 10 years. This is a more unique Shochu as few are ever aged this long. It's name translates as "Angel's Temptation," a reference to the Angel's Share, the amount of spirit that evaporates over time while it ages in a barrel. I enjoyed it neat, finding it rich and creamy, with intense Sherry notes, hints of sweetness, and plenty of complexity. And it worked well with the sorbet. I really need to get a bottle of this Shochu.

What a superb dining experience, an evening of great food and drink. Within the Select Counter, it almost feels as if you were dining at a tiny specialized spot in Tokyo. I thoroughly enjoyed the various skewers and dishes, so much delicious diversity, which was accompanied by tasty Sake. I fully understood why Adam Japko was so impressed with this restaurant and I now share his sentiment. Service was excellent and I didn't have a single complaint about anything. Torishin is definitely one of my favorite restaurants of the year and receives my highest recommendation.  I will certainly be returning there on one of my next trips to New York City.

Sake & Shochu: The "National Alcoholic Beverages" of Japan

Despite its 2000+ year history and importance in Japan, Sake was never declared to be its "national alcoholic beverage." Until now.

According to the Daily Yomiuri Online, the Japanese government will soon declare Sake and Shochu to be "national alcoholic beverages." The idea behind this decision is to help local economies, increase the demand for rice, and boost export sales. Motohisa Furukawa, the state minister for national policy, stated. "Sake and shochu are part of the Japanese culture of taking pride in high-quality rice and water. I'm confident [they] could develop into an export industry capable of penetrating the global market."

As I recently discussed, Sake exports in 2010 and 2011 reached record highs and it appears that the Japanese government is trying to continue this very positive trend. The government will engage in a diverse number of actions to boost overseas sales and that can only benefit Sake lovers all over the world. Offhand, I don't know the current statistics for Shochu exports, but I believe they are less than Sake and it still is much less popular in the U.S. than Sake. But we could be seeing more Shochu consumption too if the Japanese plans work.

Though even with increased imports of Sake and Shochu to the U.S., it will still be necessary to have passionate advocates in the U.S. to help spread the word about the pleasures, benefits and diversity of these beverages. U.S. consumers need to be told about Sake and Shochu, educated and intrigued, so that they understand these drinks, and are not afraid to taste and buy them. Wine store and restaurant owners also need to be informed and educated about these products, as well as be willing to carry and recommend them in their establishments. Consumers are also needed to be willing to take a chance on Sake and Shochu, to get past any negative preconceptions they might have.

The Japanese declaration and plans to boost exports is but one step in a greater chain, a significant and positive step, but it still requires action by those in the U.S. This is similar to the situation of some wine regions, which are making an effort to promote their wines more, but which still require work from those in the U.S. to promote and educate about such wines.

Kudos to Japan for their plans to better promote Sake and Shochu. It is now our turn to assist in this process.