The First Chinese Restaurants in Connecticut (Part 1)

Where were the first Chinese restaurants located? When did they first open? Did they have difficulties in the cities and towns where they were situated? What are their stories?

I've previously written an extensive five-part series, The First Restaurants In Boston's Chinatown, and a seven-part series, The First Chinese Restaurants Outside Boston. The second series expanded my coverage from Boston to a number of other cities and towns in Massachusetts, from Cambridge to North Adams, Malden to Quincy. I'm now expanding my coverage outside of Massachusetts, to cover various city and towns in Connecticut.

During the 19th and early 20th centuries, Connecticut lacked a "Chinatown" though there were Chinese living in numerous cities and towns, such as New Haven, Hartford, Bridgeport, New London, and more. There have been Chinese in Connecticut at least since 1818 and the state may have had the first Chinese graduate of an American college. The first Chinese restaurant in Connecticut appeared in the late 19th century and during the first two decades of the 20th century, several cities and towns in Connecticut also saw the appearance of their first Chinese restaurants.

We begin our examination of Connecticut's history back in the last few months of 1816, when the Foreign Mission School was established in Cornwall, Connecticut. This school opened in May 1817, and its objective was to bring Christianity and basic education to youths from all across the world, from Hawaii to India. During its second year of operation, their class included two Chinese youths. The school lasted until 1826, and it taught a total of five Chinese youths.

Backtracking for a moment, I previously noted in another article that in 1847, three Chinese boys,  named Yung Wing, Wong Shing, and Wong Fun, were brought to Massachusetts, to the Springfield region, to attend school. Yung Wing then attended Yale College, and the Boston Investigator, May 19, 1852 mentioned that “At the annual exhibition of the junior class at Yale College last month, the highest prize for English composition was awarded to Yung Wing, a native Chinese.” It was obvious that Yung was doing very well at Yale, especially for someone who wasn't a native English speaker. Then, the Springfield Republican, September 30, 1854, noted that Yung had just graduated from Yale college with the highest honors. He was probably the first Chinese student to graduate from an American college and excellent in his studies.

Yung eventually returned to China, but made plans to return to America, and when he did, he brough a number of other Chinese students with him. The Congregationalist, November 16, 1871, reported that China was willing to send 120 students, over the course of several years, to America for education. A number of those Chinese students attended school in various spots within Connecticut.

Yung's own ties to Connecticut grew. The Springfield Republican, February 26, 1875, provided the good news that Yung had gotten married to Mary L. Kellogg, a white woman, in Connecticut, and they settled in Hartford. Unfortunately, eleven years later, tragedy struck. The Boston Herald, May 30, 1886, reported that Mary, who was only 35 years old, died of consumption at their home in Hartford. They had two sons, who now Yung had to raise on his own.

As some point, Yung returned to China for a time, although he came back to live once again in Hartford. The Boston Herald, February 28, 1909, mentioned that Yung visited Yale to celebrate the 55th anniversary of his graduating class, of which only 25 people were still alive. A few years later, the Springfield Republican, April 22, 1912, sadly reported that Yung Wing, at age 84, had died at his home in Hartford.

Yale University (known as Yale College until 1887) and its Library, was "the first academic institution in the United States to collect Chinese books." Back in 1849, the library acquired, "Six titles of traditional stitch-bound Chinese texts." The Library's website also indicates, "The early acquisitions of Chinese books were mainly arranged for the Yale Library by missionary printer, scholar, and diplomat Samuel Wells Williams (1812-1884), who was Yale’s inaugural professor of Chinese language and literature." In addition, the previously mentioned Yung Wing "gave his personal library to his alma mater." Plus, Yung's "major donations in 1878 and 1911 laid the foundation of the Chinese collection."

In 1901, the Yale-China Association was established, whose mission was to bridge "American and Chinese cultures by creating lasting, transformative partnerships and experiences in education, health, and the arts." It also seeks to promote "understanding between Chinese and American people through programs in the arts, education, health, and public service." Very positive benefits for the Chinese community.

So now, let's begin a more city-specific examination of the early Chinese restaurants in Connecticut, starting with New Haven.

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NEW HAVEN

At least during the 1880s, it seems that a small population of Chinese lived in New Haven, though their origins extended back to the 1870s. In 1873, Unite L. Frank opened a tea company on Congress Avenue in New Haven. The Morning Journal & Courier, August 6, 1887, noted that Unite married Leona L. Wilburn of Alexandria, Virginia. At that point in time, there was a small community of Chinese in the area.

The Morning Journal-Courier, November 19, 1888, reported that 19 Chinese had been arrested in a police raid at a “little one story shanty at 49 Crown street, next to Joe Elley’s.” There had been a Chinese laundry once at that address, owned by Up Foon, who had decided to turn the location into a gambling hall. Sunday was their busiest night, and when the police arrived, they found gambling occurring in both rooms of the building, Chinese playing a dominos game. Two Chinese were able to escape, and the rest were bonded out, at $25 each, by Charles Toon, a tea merchant located at Congress Avenue.

However, there was some clarification on Charles Toon in the Morning Journal & Courier, April 8, 1891. Charles Bon Toon, had been arrested for “making change with a $50 bank note of the Yale Business college,” though he claimed it had been part of a joke. The article then mentioned that  Toon had once clerked for U.S. Frank, a tea dealer on Congress Avenue, but hadn't worked there for some time. Obviously the article referred to Unite Frank.

There was then a brief legal notice in the Morning Journal & Courier, April 5, 1895, noting that the firm of Frank and Moy Tea Company had been dissolved. Frank would continue the business though, which was located at 26 Congress Street. This was the first mention of "Moy Tea" that I found, and it appears they might have been more of a silent partner. Frank would continue the business at least into 1904. The Morning Journal & Courier, May 13, 1904, noted that the Unite L. Frank Tea company, which sold tea, coffee, and spices, had moved to 38 Congress Avenue, a few doors above the old stand.

Another gambling raid! The Morning Journal-Courier, October 28, 1895, stated that the Chinese Joss house at 76 Fair Street had been raided by the police. The Joss house had a huge door, fastened by six massive locks, and it took the police several minutes to break down the door. Inside, they found Chinese playing fan tan, and they arrested 31. Most of the locals who were arrested ran laundries, while others arrested came from New York and other Connecticut cities and towns. It was also noted that a prior raid, on March 25, 1895, had resulted in $266 in fines.

The first Chinese restaurant in New Haven, and likely the first one in all of Connecticut, opened in 1897. The New Haven Register, October 28, 1897, noted that this restaurant would be established, and managed, by Sing Lee, a protégé of Coroner Mix, on Crown Street in a few days. Curiously, the New Haven Register, November 19, 1897, mentioned that this new Chinese restaurant wasn't catering to the Irish trade. Why was this the case? Was this a larger issue affecting other New Haven restaurant too? Unfortunately, very little information was provided so the answers remain elusive for now.

The Morning Journal-Courier, January 21, 1898, noted that Chung Foo and John Lee were the owners of the Crown street restaurant. They held a special banquet for some locals, and its intriguing menu included shark fin soup, chop suey, Chinese omelet, egg & lobster, bird nest soup, oyster sauce, bean sauce, pickled ginger, boneless Chinese chicken & bamboo & mushroom, Chinese pineapple, Chinese young ho, Chinese cake, Chinese melon, Chinese nuts, Chinese roots, Chinese figs, Chinese tea, Chinese oranges, rice wine, and white rice wine.

However, only about three months after opening, the restaurant chose to close. The Morning Journal-Courier, February 2, 1898, reported that the Chinese restaurant had just closed. Even though the food and service had been good, the owners decided there hadn't been enough customers to justify remaining open. Three months certainly wasn't a long time to properly assess whether a restaurant would survive or not, but the closing might have been spurred on by other plans. The Connecticut Western News, February 10, 1898, reported that the Hong, Chum, Low & Co., which owned the Crown Street restaurant had plans to move their restaurant to Hartford.

Chinese New Year. The New Haven Register, February 11, 1899, mentioned how the Chinese commonly celebrated their New Year, but that, “In New Haven the celebration of New Year’s is rather tame, being confined almost exclusively to exchanging calls and eating good things.” This is likely because there were so few Chinese in Hartford, so they didn't have a sufficient amount for a more lavish celebration.

A second Chinese restaurant opened in 1900. The New Haven Register, September 21, 1900, published an ad for a Chinese restaurant, located at 136 Orange Street, serving all types of Chinese and American cooking. The ad also noted, "Best tea is served." Curiously, an almost exact advertisement was published in the New Haven Register, December 15, 1900, but it had a different address, now using 104 Crown Street, a couple blocks away from the previous address. No reason is given for the move, or any indication that the original address might have been an error.

Additional Chinese restaurants would open during the next several years, though most of the references failed to actually provide the name of the restaurants. The Morning Journal-Courier, July 28, 1902, stated that Chin Lee, the restaurant keeper of 156 Meadow Street, was arraigned for serving liquor on Sunday. During the previous year, the restaurant had been the subject of many complaints about liquor being served there at all hours. The Morning Journal-Courier (CT), August 6, 1902, then noted Chin was fined $10 plus costs for the offense. Apparently, this restaurant had been open since at least 1901.

The Morning Journal-Courier, June 12, 1903, briefly mentioned another Chinese restaurant, at 189 George Street. A year later, the Morning Journal-Courier, June 29, 1904, stated that Charles Wah of the Chinese restaurant on George Street was fined $5 and $10 costs for striking a customer named Noll.

Another restaurant. The Morning Journal-Courier, August 25, 1905, reported that Chin Sam, an importer and the owner of a Chinese restaurant on South Main Street, became a father. His Chinese wife gave birth to a daughter, and it was thought to be the first child born to Chinese parents in Connecticut.

Then, the Morning Journal-Courier, April 16, 1906, briefly noted that Chun Hung Lou was the owner of a Chinese restaurant at 18 Gregson Street. Later that same year, the Morning Journal-Courier, December 14, 1906, mentioned that Lee Dunn and Lee Thung were the owners of a Chinese restaurant at the corner of Meadow and Church Streets. However, the Morning Journal-Courier, March 27, 1908, then stated this the new owner of this restaurant was Low Wong.

In The Chinese Students Monthly, January 1909, there was an ad for the Low Wong Oriental Restaurant, at the corner of Congress Avenue and Meadow Street.

There was also a fight at this restaurant. The Morning Journal-Courier, September 25, 1908, reported that the owner was married to a white woman, who worked as a waitress at the restaurant. A couple were loudly singing and shouting during dinner, and refused to stop when requested. The owner's wife then refused to wait on them, and the couple was made to leave. A crowd, consisting of many students, was outside the restaurant and a bit of a melee began. Someone threw a chair and struck the owner in the head, who then grabbed an axe and tried to strike someone. Despite all this, the incident didn't attract much attention and no one was arrested.

There was another brief mention in the Morning Journal-Courier, July 22, 1907, that Chin Lee owned a restaurant on Crown Street. Was this the same Chin Lee who owned the restaurant at 156 Meadow Street? Was this the restaurant located at 104 Crown Street? Lots of questions without answers.

In The Chinese Students Monthly, November 1919, there was an ad for for The Far East, an American and Chinese restaurant located in New Haven, though no street address was provided. They offered a Noon Lunch, from 11am-2pm, for 45 cents. They also offered a Strong Orchestra on Sundays and evenings. There was also an ad for the Tien Tsin, a Chinese restaurant at 793 Chapel Street, and the ad stated, "Old Form But Odd Music."

The Connecticut Labor News, September 23, 1921, also printed a brief ad for The Far East, an American and Chinese restaurant located at 67 Church Street. They offered a luncheon for 45 cents and a Special Dinner for $1.00. This restaurant remained in existence at least until July 1923.

Unfortunately, most of the New Haven newspapers during this period didn't provide sufficient information about these early Chinese restaurants, only some tantalizing and brief references. Maybe I'll find more information in my future research.

Also check out:
Part 2: Hartford & Bridgeport
Part 3: New Britain, New London, Stamford, and Waterbury

To Be Continued...

New Sampan Article: Malden's First Chinese Restaurant

"The most interesting feature of Chinese life to me was that on board their boats, or sampans, as they are called....Upon these boats live whole families of three and even four generations."
--The Fall River Daily Herald, November 20, 1888

As I mentioned previously, I have a new writing gig, contributing to Sampan, the only bilingual Chinese-English Newspaper in New England. My first article for the Sampan was In Search of the First Chinese Restaurant in Chinatown. My second article, Malden’s First Chinese Restaurant, is now available online.

Today, Malden has plenty of excellent Chinese restaurants but when was the first Chinese restaurant founded? In my new article, you'll learn about the first Chinese restaurant, which was established in Malden in 1912, but which ran into significant political opposition. I also mention a few of my current favorite Malden Chinese restaurants, including Spicy World, Yong Yong and District Kitchen.

I'm now working on my next article for the Sampan, and thinking of ideas for future articles.

What is a "sampan?" The newspaper's site states, "A sampan is a popular river boat in traditional China. This small but useful vessel, by transporting cargo from large boats to the village ports, creates a channel of communication among villages." And like that type of boat, Sampan delivers news and information all across New England, and "acts a bridge between Asian American community organizations and individuals in the Greater Boston area."

Sampan, which was founded in 1972, is published by the nonprofit Asian American Civic Association, "The newspaper covers topics that are usually overlooked by the mainstream press, such as key immigration legislation, civil rights, housing, education, day-care services and union activities. These issues are crucial to the well-being of Asian immigrants, refugees, low-income families as well as individuals who are not proficient in the English language."

There is plenty of interest in Sampan which will appeal to all types of readers, from restaurant reviews to historical articles, from vital news stories to travel items. In these current days when racism and prejudice against Asians and their restaurants is high, it's more important than ever that accurate information about the Asian community is disseminated and promoted. We need to combat the irrational prejudices that some possess, and support our Asian communities just as we would support any other element of our overall community. We are all important aspects of a whole, and we need to stand together.

Support Sampan!

The Origins of American Chop Suey (Expanded/Revised)

"Chop suey is really a thick stew typical of Chinese restaurants in the U.S. The ingredients for chop suey are varied, according to different ideas."
San Bernardino Sun (CA), May 10, 1953, Article by Duncan Hines

Sometime during the 1870s or 1880s, Chinese Chop Suey became available in the U.S., quickly spreading from San Francisco to New York City. It was first available in Chinatown neighborhoods, with a proliferation of restaurants serving this dish, and eventually spread out of those neighborhoods and even ended up being prepared by home cooks.

Jump forward now almost one hundred years. For those growing up in New England, especially during the 1960s-1980s, American Chop Suey was ubiquitous, at restaurants, functions, school cafeterias, and at home. The basics of this dish included ground beef, macaroni and tomato sauce, with some variation of other ingredients, such as the addition of onions, peppers, or even Worcestershire sauce. I ate and enjoyed plenty of this hearty dish, which was considered inexpensive and easy to prepare.

It's name seemed odd to me but I didn't question it much. However, after reading a recent article on the history of this dish, which was short on its actual history, questions came to my mind and this time I wanted some answers. What is the actual origin of American chop suey? How and why did it change from the Chinese version? Is it actually a regional New England dish?

Let's begin a little analysis of the term "chop suey." The Chinese words for "chop suey" literally translates as "different pieces" and, in China, it is commonly used to refer to animal "entrails and giblets." In the U.S., "chop suey" became more to refer to a type of "hash" or "odds and ends," and didn't always include entrails and giblets. In general, chop suey became a dish of meat and vegetables in a brown sauce.

The origins of chop suey are murky, and a few different legends have arose as to its invention. Many of the legends claim it was invented in the U.S., one even alleging it was created by a housewife in New York City. There is some evidence that the dish may have origins in China, especially the county of Taishan in the Guangdong Province where most of the early Chinese immigrants originated. The actual origin though isn't relevant to the questions I've posed so I won't delve further into that issue.

Some of the initial chop suey recipes served in California included the use of viscera, being more true to the original intent of the Chinese term. For example, in the Inyo Independent (CA), January 23, 1891, it mentioned: "...chow chop suey, which is a pungent and palatable conception of chicken livers and gizzards, fungi, bamboo buds, bean sprouts, water chestnuts and all manner of savory spices stewed together,..." And in the Los Angeles Herald (CA), June 29, 1904, there is a reference that the chief ingredient of chop suey sauce was pigeon's blood and that the 39 ingredients in this dish included "rice sprouts, onions, chicken discard, chopped pork and punk."

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"It was a terrible accident when John Brown Jr, of Richmond, Va., shopped off his little finger on his left hand when making American Chop-suey."
--The Bismarck Tribune (ND), August 28, 1920

Many of the articles you'll find on the origins of American chop suey use The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink as a main source. That book states: "A likely origin for American chop suey is the recipe for Chop Suey Stew in the 1916 Manual for Army Cooks, an urtext for many institutional foods of the twentieth century. The army recipe could be made with either beef round or pork shoulder, beef stock, barbecue sauce, and salt." It then continues, "All these early recipes leave out soy sauce but suggest serving the stew over rice. More recent recipes simplify the service by dropping the rice and mixing in cooked macaroni, but they tend to restore some amount of soy sauce unless using Italian tomato sauce." Others add that macaroni didn't replace rice until around the 1960s.

My own research though indicates the above isn't accurate. American chop suey originated earlier than 1916 and macaroni was used in numerous recipes much earlier than the 1960s. In addition, American chop suey doesn't seem to have originated in New England either. It was far more prevalent across the country, under that same name, for many years. The true story about its origins is much more complex, and its tendrils extend across the entire U.S.

As the 20th century began, another version of Chinese chop suey started to arise, and it became known as American Chop Suey. Initially, the American version wasn't too significantly different from the Chinese version, but would continue to evolve over time.

The first reference concerning "American Chop Suey" that I located, and which predates the 1916 Manual for Army Cooks, was in The Brooklyn Daily Eagle (NY), November 14, 1902. Henry Kemper, of San Francisco, sent in a recipe to the newspaper for "American Chop Suey." As can be seen, its not too different from Chinese chop suey, and doesn't resemble the version of American Chop Suey we now know.

Someone sought a recipe for American Chop Suey. The Chicago Daily News, February 7, 1903, in the column, “Recipes by Marian Harland,” one of the readers asked Marian for a recipe for American Chop suey but she stated she wasn’t aware of that dish. though that would change within five years.

The Pacific Commercial Advertiser (HI), December 15, 1904, presented recipes for Chinese Chop Suey and American Chop Suey, though it didn't explain why they had different names. The ingredients in the two recipes varied, with the Chinese version made with chicken, pork, onion, dried mushrooms, celery, Chinese potatoes, and Chinese sauce. The American version was made with lean fresh pork shaved small, Chinese potatoes, corn starch, see yon sauce, gee yon sauce, celery, and Chinese mushrooms. Both were cooked in a frying pan and then served with rice.

The slightly two different versions of Chop Suey continued to spread across the country, and the main variation became more evident. For example, the Jersey Journal (NJ), February 9, 1909, quoted the National Food Magazine, “In American chop suey there is much more gravy and it is only slight thickened.” The Washington Herald, October 5, 1913 (D..C) also noted that the difference between the two recipes is mainly the amount of sauce, with the Chinese version having less sauce. The Norwich Bulletin, October 2, 1915 (CT) stated that American chop suey is made the same as Chinese except you add an extra cup of broth when cooking the American version.

As an aside, an intriguing, though racist, article appeared in The Daily Times, October 6, 1905 (Iowa), providing its own explanation for the difference between Chinese and American chop suey. Titled American Way Better, the article detailed a gathering of 293 women, for a cooking demonstration, who came to listen to Carrie Ives Saunders. Saunders told the women that, "...Chinese chop suey was not wholesome for Americans as the Chinese are apt to use opium in its mixing." This was especially a danger to the young and she thought they should be discouraged from going to Chinese chop suey restaurants. Saunders presented her own recipe for American chop suey, "..made from ingredients in American cookery.." and without any opium. It goes without saying that Chinese chop suey wasn't made with opium.

The two different versions didn't appear just in recipes, but also in restaurants across the country. The Daily Review, February 6, 1905 (Illinois) and The Neenah Daily Times, September 14, 1905 (Wisconsin) both mentioned American Chop Suey being served at local restaurants. The Daily Arkansas Gazette, July 5, 1908, provided part of a menu from The Imperiale restaurant listing a number of different chop suey dishes, including American Chop Suey. There was also items like Chop Suey Omelet and Chicken Pineapple Chop Suey.

The Grand Rapids Press (MI), April 29, 1908, had an ad for a luncheon offering American chop suey.

In an article primarily about macaroni made in Detroit, the Plain Dealer (OH), May 3, 1908, mentioned briefly, “The same thing is true of chop suey. The American chop suey is so much better than the mixture made in the Orient.”

More restaurants serving American chop suey. The Milwaukee Journal (WI), June 4, 1909, had a Menu for Schuster’s with American chop suey. The Lake County Times (IN), September 23, 1910 mentioned that American chop suey was on the menu of the Majestic Cafe. In the El Paso Herald (TX), November 23, 1910, there was an advertisement for a restaurant that served both Chinese Chop Suey and American Chop Suey. The Elkhart Daily Review (IN), January 3, 1912, mentioned an Chinese American cafe with both Chop Suey and American Chop Suey. There was a similar restaurant advertisement in The Cairo Bulletin (IL), September 22, 1912. The Evening Journal (DE), August 21, 1915 also had an advertisement for an American Chop Suey Restaurant, as did the Grand Forks Herald (ND), December 13, 1916.

As can be seen, American Chop Suey wasn't a regional dish, but rather one seen all across the country, from Hawaii to Connecticut, Texas to North Dakota. However, these versions of American Chop Suey still weren't the version with ground beef, macaroni and tomato sauce dish that would sometime later be claimed to be a New England dish. That is true but my historical examination is just getting started.

Around 1908, recipes for American chop suey started to diverge even more than the Chinese version. In the Chicago Daily News (IL), November 12, 1908, Marian Harland, who in 1905 wasn't aware of American chop suey, now provided two different recipes. The first recipe was less like some of the prior American chop suey recipes, but the second was the larger divergence. And it was the first calling for ground beef, spaghetti and a can of tomatoes, very similar to what is considered the current version in New England of American chop suey. So we see Illinois as one of the originators of this style.

Back in New England, the Boston Herald, November 9, 1909: had a “Postal Recipe for American chop suey” though they called just “Chop Suey” when they presented the actual recipe. It called though for both spaghetti and rice, unless the modern version.

Additional variations of American chop suey recipes, which differed more than just the nature of the sauce, also started to sprout up, only a handful of years after the first American chop suey recipes arrived. For example, The Hartford Herald, October 27, 1909 (CT) listed a recipe that called for a pound of pork shoulder, one pound of veal from the leg, salt, New Orleans molasses, onion, and celery, all served with boiled rice. No soy sauce was included.

In Machias Cookery (Maine, 1909), a cookbook by The Daughters of Machias, there was a recipe which somewhat similar to the prior Boston Herald recipe, calling for both rice and spaghetti. This recipe though added some Worcestershire sauce.

Illinois was a pioneer once again. The Alton Evening Telegraph (IL),  August 26, 1910, published a recipe with the first use of macaroni as an ingredient. The rest of the recipe included ground beef, a can of tomatoes, onions, and seasoning. This is clearly the direct ancestor to the current versions of American chop suey, showing it didn't originate in New England.

However, not all the recipes in Illinois were the same. For example, the Daily Illinois State Journal (IL), October 31, 1910, presented a meatless recipe which used rice, and was a bit more similar to the first versions of American chop suey. The New-York Tribune (NY), November 18, 1910, also printed a meatless recipe, with tomatoes, celery, green peppers, onions, and rice.

The Lincoln Journal Star (NE), January 30, 1913 printed a recipe that called for hamburg steak, salt pork, onions, macaroni, and a can of tomatoes. This is the second mention of the use of macaroni, which is most often associated with the New England version, so part of its origin stems from Nebraska too.

A third recipe, using macaroni was published in the Indianapolis Star (IN), June 19, 1913. This dish was also baked in an oven and that catsup was an additional ingredient, as well as a half pound of cheese. So, we now have seen the origins of American chop suey in Illinois, Nebraska, and Indiana. Sure doesn't seem like a regional New England dish to me.

That isn't the end though as the Decatur Herald (IL), September 28, 1913, provided a recipe for American chop suey which called for the use of spaghetti or macaroni, as well as hamburger, onions, canned tomatoes, and suet.

Macaroni in New Jersey. The Jersey Journal (NJ), April 4, 1914, also had a recipe for American chop suey calling for macaroni. Add another non-New England state to the list of originators of this dish. This recipe was repeated in an article in the Sacramento Union (CA), July 7, 1914.

Back in New England, the Boston Globe, December 15, 1914, published a more unusual recipe for American chop suey. First, rather than ground beef, it used chicken or veal. Second, it called for the use of rice, rather than spaghetti or macaroni. Third, and most interestingly, it included the use of chopped English walnuts, which is a rarity in such recipes. Certainly not the beef, pasta, and tomato recipe which would grip New England 40-50 years later.

The use of macaroni in the above recipes predates all of the sources claiming that the change from rice to macaroni didn't occur until the 1950s or 1960s. There wasn't any explanation why these recipes differed so much, like the addition of pasta, from the original American chop suey recipes. However, it's clear that variations and experimentations with the original American chop suey recipe started early.

Illinois, Nebraska, Indiana, New Jersey and California might have been the first states to prepare American chop suey recipe with ground beef, macaroni, and tomatoes, but the idea soon spread to other parts of the countries too. It's also clear that the existence of these recipes, from 1908 to 1914, predate the 1916 Manual for Army Cooks, and are far more likely to have spawned American chop suey as we know it than that Manual.

The Star Tribune (MN), November 21, 1915, had an advertisement for Quality Brand Macaroni, made by F.A. Martoccio Macaroni Co. The ad mentioned that their macaroni worked well as the body in American Chop Suey. Add Minnesota to the number of originators of so-called New England American chop suey.

Add New York and Virginia too. The Buffalo Enquirer (NY), December 4, 1915, published this recipe, which called for macaroni. This was another recipe which was baked. The Daily Telegram (VA), December 7, 1915, printed this same recipe.

The Bridgeport Evening Farmer (CT), April 1, 1916, a New England newspaper, posted a recipe with both spaghetti and rice, but no macaroni.

The Daily Telegram (WV), April 17, 1916, printed a similar recipe, that called for macaroni and rice, though their recipe included, strangely enough, a pig's heart. Definitely a very different variation of American chop suey.

Another American chop suey recipe, with an odd ingredient in an otherwise more traditional recipe, was printed in multiple newspapers, including The Bridgeport Evening Farmer (CT), April 25, 1916, The Broad Ax (UT), May 20, 1916, and The Columbus Commercial (MS), September 14, 1916. The recipe stated: "Two pounds of veal from the leg or shoulder will be required for the chop suey; cut into cubes and fry lightly in a little butter. Add a tiny bit of onion, two bananas cut in cubes and a small can of button mushrooms sliced. Season highly with salt and pepper and add half a teaspoon of curry powder. When the bananas and mushrooms are brown cover with cold water and simmer for 20 minutes; thicken slightly and serve. The bananas may be omitted and celery substituted if desired." Bananas? This isn't an ingredient though that seemed to stand the test of time as I never found another recipe using it.

The Boston Globe, June 19, 1916, published a recipe, from "New Hampshire Girl," which was closer to the modern version, though rice was still included, and it used spaghetti rather than macaroni.

Finally, macaroni in New England. The Boston Post, November 4, 1916, printed a recipe which included the use of macaroni. The dish was topped by bread crumbs and baked the oven. We've already seen macaroni used in previous American chop suey recipes in Illinois, Nebraska, Indiana, New Jersey, California,  Minnesota, New York, Virginia, and West Virginia. It again seems very clear that this style didn't originate in New England.

However, one week later, the Boston Post, November 11, 1916, published another recipe that called for spaghetti rather than macaroni. Plus, this was cooked in the stove rather than baked.

In Michigan, a recipe contest. The Jackson Citizen Patriot (MI), December 8, 1916, noted that its reader, Maud Shafer, won $2 for her recipe for American chop suey. Again, macaroni was used rather than rice or spaghetti.

Another recipe was printed in Boston Globe, February 9, 1918, made with hamburger steak, rice, spaghetti, onions, paprika, curry powder, salt and pepper, but it was baked in the oven. Macaroni in American chop suey recipes in the Boston area were uncommon, with spaghetti taking dominance.

As mentioned earlier, The Oxford Companion to American Food and Drink thought that the 1916 Manual for Army Cooks was "A likely origin for American chop suey.." This manual actually has two recipes for "chop suey" and it does not refer to either of them as "American chop suey."  One recipe is for a Hash, Chop Suey and the other for a Stew, Chop Suey, both recipes making enough for 60 men. The ingredients for the Hash include fat bacon, onions, ground beef, turnips, corn, chili powder, soup stock and tomatoes. This dish is baked rather than fried stovetop. The recipe certainly doesn't resemble the modern version of American chop suey, and is even different from all the previous recipes that have been printed.

The ingredients for the Stew include meat (unspecified type), onions, celery, barbecue sauce, and beef stock, served with rice. It is cooked on the stovetop. This is similar, except for the barbecue sauce, to previous recipes, but once again isn't similar to the modern version. There isn't any pasta or tomatoes.  This recipe doesn't seem to be, by any stretch, the "likely origin" for American chop suey. The recipe already existed for years before the publication of this cookbook, was spread across the country, and doesn't resemble the American chop suey version that used spaghetti or macaroni.

In Boston, they will still printing recipes resembling the original American chop suey that closely resembled the Chinese version. Check out this recipe in the Boston Journal, April 17, 1917, which called for chicken livers and gizzards. The ingredients are very similar to Chinese chop suey, even calling for bean sprouts.

The Boston Herald, January 20, 1918, offered another recipe for America chop suey, but once again with spaghetti, not macaroni.

During the next ten years, plenty of recipes for American chop suey were printed in various newspapers, all over the country, many using chopped/ground meat, pasta and tomatoes/sauce/soup. The Boston Globe, February 26, 1919, mentioned prisoners having a lunch of American chop suey, made from beef, spaghetti and tomato sauce.

The Boston Globe, March 22, 1919 published a recipe made with hamburg steak, macaroni and tomato soup. This was the second mention of a recipe in Massachusetts that used macaroni rather than spaghetti. During the next at least twenty-five years, the Boston Globe would publish a number of other recipes for American chop suey, some calling for spaghetti rather than macaroni, and some calling for both rice and spaghetti.

Recipes using chopped/ground meat, pasta and tomatoes/sauce/soup were definitely not limited to New England. For example, the Evening Public Ledger (PA), October 23, 1917, had a recipe that included chopped flanked beef, onion, spaghetti, and tomato soup. The New-York Tribune, January 20, 1918, printed a recipe, which was obtained from a woman in Reading, Massachusetts, which included chopped meat, onion, spaghetti, and tomato soup.

The Cincinnatti Post (OH), February 27, 1918, offered a recipe calling for spaghetti, which was baked in an oven.

The Wilkes-Barre Times-Leader (PA), February 28, 1918, had a recipe calling for both rice and spaghetti.

Another New York newspaper, the Bronxville Review (NY), October 11, 1918, printed an American chopped suey recipe which asked for chopped beef, onion, celery, spaghetti, tomato puree, and Worcestershire sauce, with salt, pepper, and paprika for seasoning.

The Glasgow Courier (MT), October 18, 1918, published a recipe that used hamburg steak, onions, rice, spaghetti, and tomato soup.

Rice and macaroni were also paired together in a recipe from The Bridgeport Times & Evening Farmer (CT), July 11, 1919, which also included hamburg steak, onions, and a can of tomatoes.

Back in New England, rice and spaghetti also were combined into a chop suey recipe in The Brattleboro Daily Reformer (VT), October 2, 1919, which included hamburg steak, onions, and tomato soup.

In Tennessee, The Chattanooga News (TN), October 9, 1919, gave cooks the option to use either spaghetti or rice, with chopped meat, onion, and can of tomatoes, though this dish was baked in an oven. The Champaign Daily News (IL), October 11, 1919,  gave a similar option of spaghetti or rice, with chopped meat, onion, and tomatoes. Spaghetti became the main choice in the Omaha Daily Bee (NE), November 8, 1919, where the recipe called for hamburg steak, onion, spaghetti, and tomato soup.

This was similar to a recipe in The Bridgeport Times & Evening Farmer (CT), February 13, 1920, except this recipe also included bacon slices.

Besides bacon, sometimes the recipes for American chop suey added other intriguing ingredients. The New-York Tribune, March 7, 1920, published a recipe with chopped flank beef, onion, macaroni, tomato soup, paprika, and slices of bologna sausage.

The Rock Island Argus & Daily Union (IL), August 13, 1920, recipe was more old-school, requiring pork, veal, chicken or lean beef, celery, onion, molasses or brown sugar, corn starch, soy sauce, mushrooms, and rice. This indicated that the original version of American chop suey was still popular in some areas.

The New Mexico State Record (NM). June 3, 1921, Middletown Transcript (DE), June 04, 1921, The Citizen-Republican (SD), June 9, 1921, and The Connecticut Labor News (CT), June 17, 1921, all published the same recipe, which required diced round steak, sausage links, onions, spaghetti, tomatoes, and salt, pepper, paprika, and sugar as seasonings. Throughout the rest of the 1920s, you'd find many similar American chop suey recipes across the country, many including beef, pasta and tomatoes.

The Denver Rocky Mountain News (CO), August 6, 1921, held a Chop Suey Recipe contest, and a couple of the winners provided American Chop Suey recipes. The above is the Eighth Prize recipe, calling for macaroni and being baked in the oven.

The Tenth Prize recipe though called for spaghetti and it was prepared stove-top.

It was also during this time period that American chop suey started to spread to other parts of the world. For example, The New York Herald, September 11, 1921, noted that a restaurant, called American Chop Suey, had opened in Tokyo. The Tonopah Daily Bonanza (NV), December 17, 1921, also reported that an American soldier had recently opened a cafe in Germany serving chop suey, though it seemed it was more similar to Chinese chop suey.

The Middletown Transcript (DE), February 18, 1922, provided a recipe without the use of ground beef, though there was some pork fat to what was other a meatless recipe.

The Daily Advocate (CT), June 3, 1922, offered a recipe, cooked stove-top, with macaroni.

The Plain Dealer (OH), June 13, 1924, also offered a chop suey recipe with macaroni, but called for pork sausage rather than ground beef.  

An Australian newspaper, The Voice of the North, January 10, 1924, printed an American chop suey recipe that called for bacon slices, chopped beef, onion, spaghetti or macaroni, salt, pepper, and soy sauce. No tomato products were used in this recipe, but otherwise it was similar to the modern version of American chop suey.

The Detroit Times (MI), November 10, 1930, published a recipe, which was baked in an oven, used macaroni, and was covered by buttered crumbs.

The Maryland Independent (MD), February 27, 1931, returned to the original style of American chop suey, more similar to the Chinese version, and served it with "buttered rice crispies."

Jumping ahead about thirteen years, the Boston Globe, April 5, 1943, returned to more of an original American chop suey with a recipe provided by Mildred Carlson. Her recipe called for pork, onions, rice, bouillon cubes, green peppers celery, and soy sauce. The Globe though would soon return to publishing more modern versions of the recipe. In their January 26, 1944 issue, there was a large advertisement from Mueller's Elbow Macaroni which included a recipe for American chop suey. The ingredients included ground beef, onions, can of tomatoes, butter and Mueller's Elbow Macaroni. The advertisement also told consumers that they could save $2 every week on their grocery bill and help solve the meat rationing problem by adding their macaroni to their menu instead of expensive meats.

In the San Bernardino Sun (CA), May 10, 1953, in an article by Duncan Hines (yes, that Duncan Hines!), he writes that "American chop suey can mean any type of stew with rice or noodles." He then details the recipe for American chop suey used at the Hearth Tea Room in Kansas. "Here is the dish The Hearth Tea Room serves as American chop suey. In 2 tablespoons shortening brown 2 cups diced celery, and 1 cup diced onions. Add 2 pounds lean ground meat, 1 No. 2 can tomatoes, 4 tablespoons soy sauce and 2 teaspoons salt. Let cook for 2 or 3 hours in tightly covered vessel. Cook 1/4 pound fine noodles. Add to the above along with 1 cup shaved cheese. pour into casserole dish and let brown in 350 F oven--it takes 20 to 30 minutes." More evidence that American chop suey isn't a regional New England dish.

In the Santa Cruz Sentinel (CA), July 24, 1957, a troop of Girl Scouts, while on a hike, prepared American Chop Suey over an outdoor fire. This one-pot dish, for which they provided the recipe, was prepared with hamburg, spaghetti, tomato sauce, onion and green pepper. It seems Californians were still making so-called "New England style" American chop suey even during the 1950s.

From the 1960s through the 1980s, American chop suey became very prevalent in the New England region, and it seemed to have dwindled in popularity in other regions, or the name of the dish changed to something else. Thus, as time passed, the incorrect belief that American chop suey, with beef, macaroni and tomatoes, was only a New England phenomenon took hold.

The origin of the dish, using macaroni rather than rice or spaghetti, actually extends back, at least, to Illinois in 1910, Nebraska & Indiana in 1913, New Jersey & California in 1914, Minnesota, New York & Virginia in 1915, and West Virginia in 1916. The first use of macaroni in an American chop suey recipe in New England wasn't until November 1916. Thus, it certainly isn't a "regional" New England dish. It's actually a dish that has spanned the entire country, though in more modern times, it might have been most popular in New England. 

The history of American chop suey has become more clear, but there is still work that can be done to further explore and enlighten its intriguing history.

Chop suey is "...is an Irish stew translated into Chinese for purely occidental degustation."
--Mariposa Gazette, November 26, 1904

A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: The Tale of Mary Yick (Part 8)

From restaurant owner to blackjack dealer, from Tiki to discrimination. Like Ruby Foo and Anita Chue, Mary Yick was another pioneering women in the Chinatown restaurant industry, owning the Tiki Hut restaurant on Tyler Street. Unfortunately, there was much less available information about Mary Yick than the other two women, so this article is much shorter than the previous two.

Mary Yick was born on November 3, 1933, and made her first appearance in a local newspaper in November 1939. At age 6, she and two other young Chinese girls, were photographed walking in a parade in Chinatown, part of the first rice bowl party for war relief work in China. This was one of the largest celebrations in Chinatown at the time, garnering about 30,000 visitors.

In October 1943: Mary, and 3 other Chinese children, were photographed as they distributed pedestrian safety booklets on the Traffic Day of Boston’s Smash the 7th Column Campaign. The 7th column referred to "carelessness" and this campaign was intended to reduce accidental death and injury. Mary's involvement in these community causes echoes Anita Chue's own involvement when she was young.

When Mary was 17 years old, in October 1951, she was once again shown in a photograph in a local newspaper. Mary and eight other young Chinese women were shown in their costumes as hostesses during the dedication ceremonies for the new headquarters and community building of the Chinese Merchants Association at Kneeland and Hudson streets.

Once again, in April 1956, Mary made the newspapers, in a photograph and news article. The article discussed Otto Mammon who owned the Polynesian Village at Hotel Somerset. Otto came to Boston from San Francisco, and stated, “Our Polynesian and Cantonese food suits the Boston palate.” At his restaurant, they had huts which were replicas of those of Sumatra, Bali and Java. They also had solid wood table tops of rare Hawaiian Monkey Pod trees. In addition, the article published two recipes from Otto's recipe, including Lobster Pina and Flaming Polynesian Steak. In the accompanying photograph, Otto was shown teaching Mary Yick how to handle a lobster.

I couldn't determine whether Mary worked at the Polynesian Village or not, but it seems reasonable considering she would later open her own Cantonese and Polynesian restaurant. She might have learned some of her craft from Otto. Mary also might have worked at other Chinese restaurants in Chinatown though I couldn't anything to substantiate that possibility.

Lanai, Inc. was established in July 1961, and in October it was noted that they were seeking the transfer of a liquor license from Wong-Eng, Inc. Managed by Jean A. DiNapoli, Lanai, Inc. was taking over the location at 10 Tyler Street and establishing a restaurant. A year later though, in November 1961, there was a legal notice noting that Mary Yick, who was now the manager of Lanai, Inc. was seeking a liquor license for The Tiki Hut at 10 Tyler Street.

It's unclear the connection between DiNapoli and Yick, and whether Yick was involved in Lanai, Inc. prior to November 1961. What we do know, is that this was the establishment of Yick's famed restaurant, The Tiki Hut.

One of the first newspaper references to the Tiki Hut wasn't until September 13, 1963, noting that the Tiki Hut was a cocktail lounge, specializing in creative Cantonese cuisine. It was also mentioned that Hostess Mary Yick was “one of Boston nicest people.” Another article, in March 1965, recommended that you order a Tiki Tornado at the Tiki Hut, joking that, “Two of these, and even your wife looks like a friend.”

In November 1965, Suffolk Downs, the former horse racing track, held an event honoring its American-Chinese neighbors and the chairman of the event was Mary Yick.

An article in February 1970, noted how “The Tiki Hut is a favorite after-show stop for many theatrical people when they’re in town.” The article mentioned how Pearl Baily, her husband, drummer Louis Bellson, co-star Cab Calloway, and other cast members of “Hello Dolly” dined at The Tiki Hut. Many theatrical celebrities dined at the restaurant when they were in town, and some of those regulars included David Merrick, Angela Lansbury, and Shakespearean actor Nicol Williamson.

Like Ruby Foo's Den and the Cathay House, the Tiki Hut was a favorite of the stage and screen celebrities, as well as stars from the local sport teams, from the Celtics to the Bruins. It was even noted in an article in February 1971, that on the theatrical circuit, Mary Yick was affectionately known as “The Dragon Lady.”

Unfortunately, Mary and the Tiki Hut ran into a serious problem in mid-1971. The Boston Globe, June 2, 1971, noted that “Mary is the only remaining on-site female entrepreneur of a restaurant-lounge in Chinatown.” Ruby Foo had passed away twenty years before and Anita Chue no longer owned any restaurants. Mary was facing a possible ouster from her 10 Tyler Street location. The owner of the premises, the Lee On Dong Association, was attempting to conduct an “auction in the Chinese tradition of her lease.” Fortunately, Mary was able to secure an injunction to halt the auction until the owners could come forward and justify themselves to the court.

In her petition, Mary stated there had been an “alleged violation of her civil rights on the basis of discrimination because of her sex.” She was “Alleging a concerted course of action against women business functionaries in the restaurant field."  Her petition also claimed that Anita Chue, of Anita Chue’s restaurant in Brookline, had been removed from that restaurant by persons common to the group attempting to oust her. Mary also claimed those same individuals were responsible for ousting the female owner of the Bo Shek, a Chinatown coffee house on Beach Street. Finally, the petition noted that, “Traditionally, Chinese mores dictate that Chinese females are inferior to Chinese males, and that Chinese females should not be entrepreneurs or occupy any position other than that which calls for menial or household work.”

Mary and the Tiki Hut lasted only another year, though at least it seemed the lease ouster had been prevented, when in November 1972, she transferred the liquor license to Mai Lai Inc., managed by Kwok Man Yu, who would operate a restaurant at the same address. The Boston Globe, December 1, 1972, noted this loss in an article titled, “Chinatown loses its last Dragon Lady.” It referred to Mary Yick “of the lyrical voice and quick quips that (gently but plainly) put down amorous customers.” The article also stated, “Her departure ends, at least for the time, a tradition begun by the legendary Ruby Foo and later Anita Chue.”

After taking several trips to various parts of the world, Mary planned to move to Las Vegas, and an article from January 1981, noted that Mary was now a blackjack dealer at Caesar’s Palace in Las Vegas. Sadly, Mary passed away in Pleasanton, California, on July 14, 2013. 

Once again, we have a Chinese woman who left a strong legacy in Chinatown. Like Ruby Foo and Anita Chue, Mary Yick was an intelligent, charming and savvy business woman who became a success in the restaurant industry, and introduced many people to the wonders of Chinese cuisine, especially Cantonese. Her restaurant career ended too shortly, potentially due to discrimination,  because she was a woman. A tragedy in its own right.

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My Research Resources for this article included:
Boston Globe: April 8, 1956; February 8, 1965; November 14, 1965; November 30, 1965; February 13, 1970; August 3, 1970; February 3, 1971; June 2, 1971; November 3, 1972; December 1, 1972
Boston Herald: November 19, 1939; March 2, 1965; January 12, 1981
Boston Record American: November 11, 1961; November 21, 1962;
Boston Traveler: October 8, 1943; October 3, 1951; May 31, 1955; September 13, 1963;

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You might also be interested in my other related historical articles about Chinatown, its restaurants, and related Chinese cuisine matters:

A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 

Check out Part 1, covering the 18th & 19th centuries
Check out Part 2, covering the years 1901-1920
Check out Part 3, covering the 1920s.

Check out Part 4, covering 1930-1959

Check out Part 5, covering the 1960s
Check out Part 6, the tale of Ruby Foo.

Check out Part 7, the tale of Anita Chue
Check out Part 9, a Deeper Look into Two Restaurants

Check out Part 10: Sam Wah Kee: From Chinatown's Most Wealthy Merchant to Wanted Fugitive

Check out Part 11: An Early History of Chinese Herbalists in Boston

Check out Part 12: Dr. Ensang Chang: Boston's First Chinese Licensed Physician 

Check out Part 13: A Historic Look at Chinese New Year in Boston (1870-1890)

Check out Part 14: An Early History of Christmas in Chinatown

Check out Part 15: Chinatown, Little Syria & Its Restaurants

Check out Part 16: The Chinese Shoe Makers of North Adams

Check out Part 17: A History of Henry Wong & Shanghai Printing

Check out Part 18: A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 1970-1974

Check out Part 19: A History of Boston's Chinatown and Its Restaurants: 1975-1979

And also see my Compilation Post, with links to my additional articles about Chinese restaurants, outside Boston and in Connecticut, as well as a number of related matters.

(Update as of September 15, 2020: Lillian Lee, Mary's older sister, recently contacted me, providing a few more details about the life of Mary Yick).