Monday, May 22, 2023

Rant: Can A Restaurant Get Too Much Publicity?

Some people would prefer that their favorite restaurants stay under the radar, avoiding publicity, so that the restaurant never became too crowded, and that they would always be able to get a table. However, that selfish attitude does a significant disservice to the restaurant, which needs to attract sufficient customers to survive and thrive. 

Sometimes a restaurant receives a multitude of positive reviews and many mentions in the media. All that attention does make it more difficult to obtain a reservation. You often need to make plans weeks, if not months, ahead to secure a reservation. This means some people will complain that all that publicity has ruined one of their favorites. However, does that mean the restaurant doesn't need additional publicity? 

As I mentioned in an article last December, Nightshade Noodle Bar, in Lynn, is one of my Top Three Favorite Restaurants. Earlier this year, the James Beard Foundation chose Chef Rachel Miller as a finalist in the category of Outstanding Chef. She competes against chefs from New York, California, Michigan, and Washington, D.C. This is a great honor and I'm hoping that Chef Miller wins this prestigious award. 

Prior to this announcement, Nightshade Noodle Bar had already received lots of publicity, including receiving a Five Star review from the Boston Globe. Since the announcement, Nightshade Noodle Bar has received much more media attention. So, it's far more difficult now to secure a reservation at this superb restaurant. At the start of each month, reservations open for two months out. For example, on May 1, reservations for July opened up. And reservations fill up very quickly. The more flexible your plans, the better your chance of getting a reservation.

Now, despite the fact Nightshade Noodle Bar is so popular, booked a few months out, does that mean they don't need additional publicity? Hell, no! Especially in these tough economic times, all restaurants need as much publicity as they can obtain. It's a very tough industry, and we've already seen too many restaurants close during the last few years. Currently, a couple of the major problems facing all restaurants are obtaining a sufficient number of employees and dealing with high food costs. And there are plenty of other issues they are confronting as well.

In addition, people sometimes cancel their reservations, sometimes with little to no notice, at the last minute, and restaurants aren't always able to refill those spots. Plus, media attention can be fickle, and although a restaurant might receive plenty of attention for several months, the media might then move onto another restaurant to triumph. Thus, no restaurant can receive too much publicity. To survive in these trying times, they need all the help they can get. Having difficulty getting a reservation is a small price to pay for your favorite restaurant to survive. 

I've got a reservation for Nightshade Noodle Bar at the end of July, as that's where I wanted to celebrate my birthday this year. I'll be there with family and friends, and we will celebrate well. I already know we'll enjoy a compelling dining experience, as the restaurant, on all levels, is consistently excellent. I want Nightshade to succeed and thrive, so it deserves as much publicity and attention as it can get. And I feel the same about all of my favorite restaurants. They can never get too much publicity and attention. 

Thursday, May 18, 2023

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) According to Chef Mario LaPosta of Newton’s da LaPosta, a pizza is only as good as its crust. LaPosta’s pizza dough begins as a naturally leavened sourdough, made from a seven-year-old starter using da LaPosta's proprietary whole wheat flour blend from Central Milling in Utah. Once the dough is mixed and rolled, it ferments for a minimum of 8-12 hours. LaPosta uses specially-crafted dough trays made from maple wood, which helps to remove any extra moisture from the dough, allowing for a faster cook and a lighter, crisper crust.

No pizza showcases LaPosta’s commitment to creating the ultimate crust better than the Margherita, whose simplicity allows each ingredient to shine. Using his signature dough as the base, LaPosta tops each Margherita with organic Bianco di Napoli tomatoes from California, naturally lactose-free mozzarella from Caputo Brothers Creamery in Pennsylvania, local basil, and a sprinkle of Parmigiano Reggiano.

Our dough is the heart and soul of da LaPosta, and our Margherita showcases the pride and care we take in every element of our menu,” says LaPosta, Chef and Owner of da LaPosta. “You can actually taste the passion and love that goes into our food.”

For a limited time only, guests are invited to enjoy da LaPosta’s Margherita pizza for just $10 on Mondays, from May 22 to June 26, 4-9pm. Offer valid only for dine-in orders. 

Tuesday, May 16, 2023

2016 Fratelli Lunelli Ferrari Perlé Trentadoc: Impressive Italian Bubbly

The most famous sparkling wine is obviously Champagne, and for many average people, it has even become a generic term they use to refer to all sparkling wine. Many people are also familiar with other sparkling wines, such as Prosecco and Cava. However, there are numerous sparkling wines from other regions, such as Crémant d'Alsace and Franciacorta, which are relatively unknown to many people, although they are excellent sparkling wines, worthy of their attention.   

Another relatively unknown bubbly is Trentodoc Sparkling Wine from the Trentino region of Italy. In 1993, it acquired DOC status, and allows for white and rosé sparkling wines made in the metodo classico, primarily using Chardonnay and Pinot Noir. Pinot Blanc and Pinot Meunier are permissible grapes but are used far less commonly. There are currently about 44 producers in Trentino, producing a total of about 8.5 million bottles annually. 

One of the top producers is Ferrari Trento, and I previously had the pleasure to meet Marcello Lunelli, their Vice President and wine maker. For a more detailed article about the history, wine making, and philosophy of this winery, please read my prior article, Ferrari Trento: Italian Bubbly You Need To Know.

One of the most memorable statements from my prior tasting was when Marcello stated, "You don't need to be a sommelier as sparkling wine pairs with everything." When is the last time you paired bubbly with your dinner? Most people seem to drink it as an aperitif or celebratory drink, but it also pairs great with all types of food. More people should drink sparkling wine with their dinner, and it's an easy pairing. Even restaurant sommeliers rarely recommend drinking bubbly with dinner, but they too should be recommending it much more. 

I received a media sample of another of Marco's wines, the 2016 Fratelli Lunelli Ferrari Perlé Trentadoc ($40-$45). With a 12.5% ABV, it's produced from 100% Chardonnay, the best from their vineyards, and was disgorged in 2021. It was also aged for about 54 months on the lees. The 2016 vintage was difficult in some respects, but the harvest period was very good, allowing the grapes to be picked at a good ripeness with plenty of acidity. 

The wine has a light golden color and you can see many tiny bubbles, the perlage, in your glass. On the nose, it's alluring, with fruity notes accompanied by hints of toast and floral elements. As you sip it, you'll be impressed with the complexity of its flavor, including notes of green apples, peach, brioche, a briny touch, and almonds. Each sip brings something new to your palate. It's dry, crisp and elegant, with a mild creaminess, and a lingering, satisfying finish. An impressive sparkling wine, which you could easily confuse with actual Champagne. Highly recommended.

Monday, May 15, 2023

Brands of Portugal: Vinous Delights

There's so many reasons why you should drink Portuguese wine! At the recent Boston Wine Expo, one of my favorite tables belonged to Brands of Portugal, a relatively new importer and wholesale company which sells only Portuguese wines and spirits. The company was founded in 2021 by Chris and Nelly Saraiva, a husband and wife team who are both of Portuguese descent. They're based in Rhode Island although their wines and spirits are available in Massachusetts as well.   

They currently represent over 25 wineries and distilleries, generally which are smaller boutique operations, from many different wine regions in Portugal. The above sign indicates some of the types of wineries and distilleries that they represent. I tasted more wines at this table than I did at any other table, finding many delicious and worthy wines. I also spent some time speaking with Chris as he led me through the tasting. He was very personable and obviously passionate about Portuguese wines. 

You can taste some of their portfolio as well at any of their upcoming events, in both Rhode Island and Massachusetts. 

The 2021 Quinta de Curvos Superior, with a 12% ABV, is a blend of 75% Loureiro, 15% Trajadura, and 10% Arinto. This is a family owned winery, in the Vinho Verde region, and they possess about 27 hectares of vineyards. The wine was bright and crisp, with a mild effervescence, prominent citrus flavors, some floral notes and a mineral backbone. Quite tasty and priced under $15, it's a very good value as well. A perfect summer wine. 

The 2020 Quinta de Santiago Alvarinho, with a 13.5% ABV, is made from 100% Alvarinho. Also located in the Vinho Verde region, in the Monção and Melgaço sub-regions, the history of the vineyards extend back to 1899. For three generations, the winery has been woman owned, with women winemakers, although it wasn't until 2009 that they decided to form this small winery. The impetus for this decision was Grandma “Mariazinha,” aged 86, who pushed for the winery. This is a low intervention wine, priced under $25, and is intriguing and complex. With an alluring aroma, the wine is dry and crisp with a rich mouthfeel, and a melange of flavors, including citrus and passionfruit, with earthy undertones and a strong minerality. A lengthy, pleasing finish.  

The 2020 Caminhos Cruzados Titular Reserva Branco, with a 13.5% ABV, is a blend of Encruzado, Malvasia Fina and Bical. The winery owns about 30 hectares, and their new winery was created in 2017. The winery has a female winemaker, and the Titular collection is "a range of elegant, structured and complex wines, with great potential for a positive evolution in the bottle." At under $25, I found this to be an exceptional wine, one of my personal favorites of the tasting. Complex and compelling, the wine well delivered from an appealing nose to its lengthy, satisfying finish. On the palate, there was a complex melange of fruit (citrus, pear, and a hint of tropical fruits) and savory herbs, with great acidity, brightness, and structure. Everything was very well balanced, and I'd drink this both with or without food. Highly recommended!

The 2021 Hugo Mendes "The Wizard Apprentice" Rosé, with a 12.5% ABV, is made from 100%  Touriga Nacional. Hugo Mendes was originally a biomedical engineer, but in 2004, after working his first wine harvest, he had an epiphany, deciding to change careers. In 2016, after working for a number of other wineries, he chose to strike out on his own. The grapes for this wine are from the Tejo region, and only 2900 bottles, a tiny amount, were produced. Priced under $40, this was another impressive wine, complex and elegant, with subtle red fruit flavors, streaks of minerality, and hints of savory herbs. Dry, crisp and bright, with a long and lingering finish. Yes, it's priced higher than many Rosé wines, but it presents an exceptional wine. 

Canned wine??? They might not get all the respect that they deserve, but there are some canned wines which truly stand out, like this 2020 Defio Baga Clarete, with an 11% ABV and produced from 100% Baga. The wine is produced by two woman winemakers, Sara Matos & Ana Sofia Oliveira, in the Bairrada region. The word "defio" translate as "challenge," and represents "the steep learning curve, and the many 'ups and downs' Sara and Ana have been through in realizing their joint dream." They don't own any vineyards, and work with a variety of different people. 

This wine was produced from organic grapes and made with minimal intervention. Only 2600 cans were produced, and a 4-pack generally costs $40-$50. I've become a big fan of the Baga grape, and feel that it has so much potential. A small group of winemakers, especially in the Bairrada region, have been showcasing Baga in so many interesting and delicious ways. And the Defio fits within that group. The wine is light and fruity, with a bit of a funky aroma and the flavors intrigue and delight the palate. This isn't the simple wine you find in many cans, but a wine of quality and depth, but still easy drinking. 

The 2020 Monte Cascas 1808 is made from a blend of organic grapes, including Tinta Roriz, Touriga Nacional, and Rufete. This company was founded in 2008 by Hélder Cunha, a famed Portuguese winemaker. This is a vegan wine, from the Beira region, and is an easy drinking red wine, with lush black fruit flavors, plum and blackberry, with a touch of blueberry and chocolate. Restrained tannins, a moderately long finish, and some spices elements. 

The 2020 Quinta da Alorna Lutra Tinto, with a 12% ABV, is a blend of three native grape and is priced at less than $12. Quinta da Alorna, with almost 300 years of history, has been owned by the Lopo de Carvalho family for five generations. They own about 160 hectares of vineyards in the Tejo region. This wine is dry and dark, with rich black fruit flavors and a touch of minerality. Easy drinking, this would be a fine choice to accompany grilled meats this summer. 

The 2020 Quinta do Piloto Touriga Nacional, made from 100% Touriga Nacional, is made by a winery that uses 0% electricty! The winery has been family owned for four generations, and their main winery was quite large, with about 500 hectares of vineyards, and produced 3-4 million liters of wine annually. In 2008, they embarked on the Quinta do Piloto project, to make more high quality and small quantity wines. From the Península de Setúbal region, this was an intriguing wine, with rich, black fruit flavors, spice notes, and hints of anise. This is a wine that's best paired with hearty meat dishes. 

Two very different Castelão wines! Castelão is a native Portuguese grape, and one of the most planted grapes in that country. It can produce a variety of different wine styles, which was clearly evident by two different examples at the tasting. 

The 2021 Hugo Mendes Lisboa Tinto, with a 12% ABV, is made from 100% Castelão and priced under $30. Only 4750 bottles were produced, and the wine was made in a lighter style, bringing to mind a tasty Pinot Noir or Beaujolais. Bright red fruits flavors, good acidity, and hints of floral and spice. Easy drinking but far from simple. 

On the other hand, the 2017 Quinta de Alorna Reserva das Pedras Castelão, also made from 100% Castelão, was closer to a Syrah. It was a much bigger wine, more tannic and with deep black fruit flavors and more prominent spices notes. So very different from the Hugo CastelãoThis was a deeper, darker wine, one best paired with hearty dishes. It was so much fun to see how Castelão can be produced in such varied styles. 

The 2019 Dona Graça Reserva Douro, with a 13.5% ABV and priced under $25,, is made from five native grapes of the Douro. Strong acidity, moderate tannins, and a pleasant melange of ripe black fruit flavors, hints of savory spices, and a touch of herbal notes. Another very good red wine, especially paired with grilled meats. 

Another of my top favorite wines was the 2016 Quinta de Alorna Abafado Vinho Licoroso, a fortified wine, with a 17.5% ABV, made from the Fernão Pires grape. This isn't a wine category commonly seen locally, so it's a welcome addition. With a fascinating, alluring aroma, with notes of caramel and toasted nuts, the palate was complex, compelling and elegant. Each sip brought something new, including touches of honey, roasted nuts, figs, caramel and citrus. With excellent acidity, the sweetness was well balanced and the finish was lengthy and pleasing. This is a wine to slowly sip, tasting how it evolves over time. And priced under $25, this is also a great value. Highly recommended.

The Oppidum Ginja da Obidos, with a 19% ABV, is a traditionally made cherry liqueur, produced from simply sour Morello cherries, alcohol and sugar. It's produced in Obidos, a village in the Estremadura province. The morello trees extend back thousands of years, although their origin is disputed, some believing they are native to the region, while others feel the ancient Greeks or Romans imported them. This liquor also has a lengthy history in the area. This was a well balanced and delicious  liqueur, not overly sweet, which was smooth and delicious, with bright cherry flavors and some underlying tartness. Definitely something unique. 

The wines of Brands of Portugal showcase the diversity and quality of Portuguese wines, including some of the excellent values that can be found from that country as well. Many of these wines also have some great stories behind them, which I'd like to explore more in the future. Brands of Portugal may have only been around for two years, but they have already created an excellent portfolio, and I'd highly recommend you seek out their wines, attend their wine tasting events, or ask your local wine shop to stock their wines.

Thursday, May 11, 2023

Join Me For A Croatian Wine Tasting at Moldova Restaurant: May 17

On Wednesday, May 17, from 6pm-8pm, please join me for an educational wine tasting, with Croatian wines, at the Moldova Restaurant in Newton. I'll be joined by Mirena and (and maybe Win) of Croatian Premium Wine Imports. We'll be tasting 6 wines from the Komarna wine region of Croatia, a region I've previously visited and wrote about. This new wine region is exciting, with all organic wines, and specializing in indigenous Croatian grapes. 

This is a great time to learn more about Croatian wines. I've visited Croatia twice, tasted hundreds of their wines, and have written 85 articles about Croatia. Plus, Croatian Premium Wine Imports, which is based in the Boston area, imports about 80 different Croatian wines. Boston is an epicenter for a passion for Croatian wines. Come to this event and learn more about these fascinating and delicious wines. 

The wines we will be tasting include: 
- Terra Madre Posip
- Volarevic Rosé, from Plavac Mali
- Rizman Tribidrag (aka Zinfandel)
- Terra Madre Plavac Mali Premium
- Komarna 7 Plavac Mali
- Volarevic Syrtis Blue Label
 

Bites will be provided (and the food at Moldova is excellent!). Guests will be able to order food from dinner menu, but you're encouraged to have dinner before the event and enjoy the tasting with the bites pairings provided. Note: This is a 21+ only event.

And if you enjoy the wines, you will also have the ability to purchase the Croatian wines to take home with you. 

Tickets cost $85 per person and can be purchased at Eventbrite. However, I can offer a 20% Discount to four of my readers if you enter the Promo Code: FOODIE20. This code will expire on May 14, and as only four people can use the code, then I recommend using it sooner than later so you don't miss out.