Sunday, April 17, 2011

Wine Blogging Wednesday #72: Helping Japan--A Recap

It is time for the Recap of Wine Blogging Wednesday #72: Helping Japan.

As you will recall, on Friday, March 11, a massive earthquake, one of the largest in recorded history, struck northern Japan, triggering a devastating tsunami that has affected millions of people. Over 3,000 people have lost their lives and thousands more have remained unaccounted. The destruction has been so extensive that millions of families have been displaced in search of water, food and shelter far from damaged nuclear reactors. Obviously, this has been a terrible tragedy, pulling at every one of our heartstrings with the innate desire to help, to give something that might make their lives easier.

For this WBW theme, participants had two options, to either drink and review a Sake or drink and review wine that pairs well with Japanese cuisine. You could earn bonus points by reviewing multiple Sakés, pairing Saké with food, or drinking wine with Japanese food.

Unfortunately, we had a very low turnout for this event. So even more kudos go out to those who did participate. It is interesting too that most of the participants were from outside of the U.S., including three from Canada, one from Finland and one from Kenya. It is very pleasing to me that the participants largely seemed to enjoy the sakes they tasted.

Holly, of Wine Out Loud, is a first timer to WBW and tasted three sakes, earning bonus points.  All three were from the Hakutsuru Brewery, and included a Junmai Ginjo, an organic Junmai Ginjo and a Nigori.  She enjoyed these three sakes with some sushi and teriyaki chicken, earning even more bonus points.  I am pleased she enjoyed the sake, as well as the fact she shared them with some friends.

Todd, of Vermont Wine Press, also earned plenty of bonus points and kudos for drinking multiple sakes, paired with food, and with friends. He tasted the Nanbu Bijin "Southern Beauty" Junmai Ginjo, Tentaka Kuni "Hawk in the Heavens" Junmai, Kaguyahime "Radiant-night Princess" Junmai and Hakushika "White Deer" Junmai Ginjo. Their homemade dinner included brown rice miso soup, smoked salmon and avocado maki, squid and vegetable fried rice, and teriyaki chicken legs. Todd earns even more kudos though for reviewing the sakes in haiku, my favorite type of Japanese poetry.   

Bob, of 2001 Bottles - A Wine Odyssey, tasted a sake from Oregon, the Momokawa Organic Junmai Ginjo. He earns bonus points for pairing the sake with Japanese cuisine, and he enjoyed the Momokawa. Though not a sake, Bob also reviewed a Shochu. Though Bob's was from Vietnam, plenty of Shochu is made in Japan and kudos still go to Bob for trying something different for WBW.

Mshamba, of The Kenyan Wine Blog, posted an interesting video review of a sake, the Black Bottle Junmai. He really enjoyed this sake, and it was amusing to hear him talk about a sake he has previously tasted which was just terrible. I would not have expected sake to be available in Kenya, but I am glad that it can be found there.

Aleksi, of Aleksi Mehtonen, also did an extensive video review of a number of sakes at a restaurant in Helsinki. He earns bonus points for tasting many different sakes, and kudos for interviewing the sommelier who led the sake tasting. Aleksi really gave his all to this tasting and you should watch his video.

Bethany, of Second Ferment, chose to review a wine, Oroya, that pairs well with Japanese cuisine. Oroya is a Spanish white wine, a blend of Airen, Macabeo, and Moscatel, and was specifically produced to be paired with sushi. Bethany found it to work great with a variety of Japanese dishes, and her description of the wine makes it sound very appealing.

Matthew, of A Good Time With Wine, was another person with a video for WBW, which has an informative interview with Tara Fougner of Ty Ku.  Ty Ku produces sake in the U.S. and Japan, as well as soju and a soju-based liqeuer. Matthew seemed very excited to learn more about sake, and will even be posting more sake-related posts in the future. Keep an eye on his blog.  

Finally, you can check out my own WBW #72 post, a review of the first 100% organic Japanese sake.

Thanks very much to everyone who participated in WBW #72, and thanks very much to everyone who donated to help Japan through the links on these WBW posts. You can still give to this worthy cause by clicking on the American Red Cross site and donate whatever you can.

Kanpai!

Saturday, April 16, 2011

WBW #72: Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo

(Yes, April 6 was Wine Blogging Wednesday #72, Helping Japan, so my post is a bit late but I was out of the country for two weeks.)

On Friday, March 11, a massive earthquake, one of the largest in recorded history, struck northern Japan, triggering a devastating tsunami that has affected millions of people. Over 3,000 people have lost their lives and thousands more have remained unaccounted. The destruction has been so extensive that millions of families have been displaced in search of water, food and shelter far from damaged nuclear reactors. Obviously, this has been a terrible tragedy, pulling at every one of our heartstrings with the innate desire to help, to give something that might make their lives easier.

The people of Japan need humanitarian assistance - they need our assistance - to help overcome the devastation. This is why Gabriella and Ryan Opaz of  Catavino and I came up of the idea of hosting an event to support Japan, using Wine Blogging Wednesday as our perfect vehicle.  Lenn, the originator of WBW, was quick to support the idea, allowing us to pitch Wine Blog Wednesday #72: Helping Japan. For this theme, participants had two options, to either drink and review a Sake or drink and review wine that pairs well with Japanese cuisine.  Of course, I chose to drink a sake.

I received a sample of the Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo, which may be the first 100% Japanese, USDA-certified organic sake.  You might see other organic sakes on the market, from producers such as Kikusui and SakeOne, but they use rice grown in the U.S.  The rice used for this Chikurin is grown entirely in Japan, and by the brewery itself. So why is there so little organic sake coming out of Japan?  

Most of the rice grown in Japan is cultivated on hillside terraces so water filters down through the terraces from the top of the hill.  Thus, if you want to be organic, all of your neighbors above you on the hill must also be organic, or their water would corrupt your efforts.  Plus, it can be difficult if your close neighbors use pesticides, which can easily blow in the wind onto your terraces.  So, being organic is very difficult in Japan, though I think it is likely you will see more organic cultivation in the near future. 

The Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo ($50) is made by the Marumoto Brewery, located in Okayama, and exclusively imported by Joto Sake, an importer of artisanal Japanese sake. The Marumoto Brewery, founded in 1867, was originally called Shimizu-ya (which means “spring water store”) because it was built at the site of an important water source. Marumoto launched the Chikurin brand in 1990, the first 100% estate bottled sake.

Marumoto is sometimes known as Nousan Sakagura, the "Farmers’ Brewery," because the farmers who cultivate the rice are also the ones who brew the sake. In addition, the rice is grown at lower yields, thus increasing the amount of starch in the rice while lowering the amount of proteins.  In 2009, they attained USDA organic certification, under the direction of Ecocert SA.

The name of the sake, “Karoyaka,” means “lightness.”  It is produced from 100% Yamada Nishiki rice, and has a rice polishing rate of 50%, which would qualify it as a daiginjo but the brewery has chosen to label it as a ginjo. This is obviously a high quality, and very artisan sake, which has also taken great work in the fields to produce organic rice.  So the price is clearly indicative of these intense efforts and thus, the sake is reasonably priced.        

This is a very interesting sake, with a harmonious and complex melange of flavors, and a clean and light profile.  There are herbal notes accompanied by some cherry flavor and hints of melon. And if you concentrate more, you can detect even more subtle flavors beneath those primary ones.  It is dry, with good acidity, and a pleasant and lingering finish.  It is supposed to pair well with oysters and white fish, and I do think it would work well in those regards.  I paired it with a simple roast chicken and enjoyed how the sake complemented the moist and tender meat.  This is a sake for connoisseurs who will enjoy its complexity, yet it is still very approachable for newcomers too. It gets my highest recommendation.

Please help the people of Japan overcome the effects of this terrible tragedy.  If you can give, please click on the American Red Cross site and donate whatever you can. Thanks very much.

Friday, April 15, 2011

Friday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a special Friday of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1)  In a few weeks, chef-owner Jeff Fournier of 51 Lincoln restaurant in the Newton Highlands, will climb a ladder, fill a basket with fresh greens, herbs, tomatoes and berries, lower it to his kitchen door on a pulley, and keep on cooking.  With advice from experts at Boston’s last working farm (Allendale Farm), Jeff will soon be fulfilling his locavore fantasies. Growing produce steps away from the kitchen means peak freshness, savings, and no carbon footprint. Irrigated beds and a shade trellis for the 1,800 sq ft roof garden is under construction, and Jeff is hoping that his budget can support a small greenhouse for seedlings.

51 Lincoln also has begun serving weekday lunch, from 11:30am-2pm on Monday to Friday. Salads (3), sandwiches (5), pastas (4) and entrees like Roast Pork Tacos and Salmon over Quinoa are priced from $7 to $16.

During the month of May, they will offer 26 different recipes for soft shell crab during 26 nights of dinners (closed Sundays). You'll find dishes ranging from Cajun (on a Po’ Boy with BBQ Collards) to Chinese (tempura’d with sticky rice and mirin braised bok choy) to Calabrian (fra diavolo with homemade tagliatelle). Market prices.

2) 62 Restaurant & Wine Bar does not usually serve brunch but once a year Chef Antonio Bettencourt opens for brunch in honor of his first inspiration to enter the culinary arts, his mother. The special brunch is served à la carte with three courses to choose from. Guests can enjoy Chef Bettencourt’s take on brunch classics such as: Eggs Benedict with poached eggs, pancetta, brioche and hollandaise ($15.00) and Brioche French Toast with house-made brioche and vanilla roasted apples ($13.00). Diners can also make a distinct departure from the brunch norm and dine on delights such as: Hache featuring wild mushrooms, potatoes, pancetta and black truffle with poached eggs & brioche ($14.00) or Sformato with Parmigiano, haricots verts, roasted hazelnut vinaigrette & baby field greens ($9.00).

Pair your selections with from-scratch cocktails from 62’s Mixologist Jeremy Bogert featuring items such as: Nectar of the Gods made with Prosecco, fresh mint and lime, the 62 Sangria made with seasonal fresh fruit, or enjoy an Elderflower Mimosa or a classic Kir Royale all for $10.00 each.

Mother’s Day Brunch will be served on Sunday, May 8th, from 11am-3pm, reservations are required and can be made by calling 978-744-0062.  The restaurant will also be open for dinner on Mother’s Day from 5pm-9pm with Cocktails until 10pm.

3) The Beehive in Boston’s South End calls you south of the border on Thursday, May 5th, as they celebrate Cinco de Mayo with their annual event featuring live music and food & cocktail specials. Kick the night off with dinner as you listen to exciting Jazz-infused Mexican music by Aquas-Aquas with Rafael Alcala. Keep the night going with a special performance by a nine piece Mariachi band, Mariachi International from 10pm-2am. Mexican appetizers, entrées, desserts and cocktail specials will be served all night.

Appetizer:
Fresh Guacamole, Charred Tomatillos, Corn Chips $11
Shrimp & Chorizo Quesadilla, Salsa Verde $12

Entrée:
Mexican “Fall Off the Bone” Roast Pork, Warm Tortillas, Rice & Beans $20
Grilled Mahi Mahi Tacos, Slaw, Salsa, Mexican Corn on the Cob $20

Dessert:
Mexican Chocolate Coconut Flan $8

Cocktails:
Classic Patron Margarita $10.50
Patron Strawberry Margarita $10.50
Patron Red Sangria Mexicana $10.50

The Beehive is open from 5pm-2am.  There is no cover charge and dinner reservations are highly recommended by calling 617-423-0069. Sombreros welcome!

4) Butter Café and Bakery located in Walpole, will be celebrating Easter this year by giving its customers a free order of homemade marshmallow peeps with every order placed for the upcoming holiday. Customers merely need to mention that they’d like their free peeps when placing their custom order by calling 508-668-2123. This special is available now until April 23rd (orders must be placed on or before 4/23/2011). 

Recipe: Butter Café and Bakery Homemade Peeps (Makes about a pound)

Ingredients:3/4 cup light corn syrup
1 cup cold water
3 envelopes plain gelatin
2 cups granulated sugar
2 teaspoons vanilla extract
Pinch of Salt
Colored Granulated Sugar

Directions:
--Prepare a 9 x 13 x 2 inch pan by covering the pan lightly with shortening.
--Place a half a cup of cold water in a bowl and sprinkle the gelatin over the surface of the water and reserve.
--Put the corn syrup, sugar, salt and a half cup of water in a heavy medium size pan on low heat. Stir mixture until the sugar is dissolved and it starts to bubble.
--Cover it for about 3 to 4 minutes to make sure that the sugar crystals on the sides of the saucepan melt. Uncover and turn up the heat to medium high heat and insert a candy thermometer into the mixture.
--Boil the syrup without stirring. When the temperature reaches 240 degrees take off the heat.
--Pour the syrup into the gelatin mixture. After all the syrup has been added, turn the mixer to high and beat it for 10 to 15 minutes or until the mixture is really white. Now add the Vanilla.
--Pour the mixture into the pan and smooth it out. Let it sit at room temperature uncovered overnight.
--The next day, sift the colored granulated sugar onto a cutting board and turn the pan over in order to remove you’re soon to be Peeps. Tap the stiffened Marshmallow out of the pan and remove.
--Use your favorite “animal –like” cookie cutter and shape your peeps. Dip the cut sides of each strip into sugar to coat then cut each little bit. Shake to get rid of the extra sugar.

Monday, April 11, 2011

Rant: Traveling to Wine Country

“The world is a book and those who do not travel read only one page.” – St. Augustine

There are various levels of understanding all subjects, including wine. Your wine knowledge may derive from a book, an instructor, or numerous tassting.  Or you might travel to a wine region to gain further knowledge and understanding. That type of comprehension has been on my mind for the past week as I have explored the countries of Argentina and Chile.

Though it may seem self-evident, it bears stating to ensure clarity: Visiting a wine region will likely deepen your understanding of wine.  To meet the wine makers, to walk through their vineyards, to immerse yourself in the region's culture, all can contribute to a deeper appreciation and knowledge of the area and its wines.  To have the opportunity to question the staff of the winery, to obtain answers to matters which might have previously confused or puzzled you, can be invaluable. A winery's website may present their brief history and philosophy, but that is most often only the bare bones.  There is much richer detail to be found by speaking directly to the people of the winery.

“One’s destination is never a place, but a new way of seeing things.” – Henry Miller

I have been learning plenty about Argentina and Chile. I have observed the lands, the vines, the soils, even spending a little time harvesting grapes in both countries. I have watched, and participated in, traditional dances, such as the tango, in both countries. Though not directly related to the wine, it is a valuable cultural experience, helping me to gain a better understanding of the people of the region.  And obviously I have been drinking many wines, including some which are not available in the U.S.  So many special experiences which cannot be equaled by merely reading a book. 

I strongly encourage all wine lovers to visit wine regions, so that you can gain a better comprehension and knowledge.  Wine writers are especially urged to do so, to give you a better perspective on wine regions.  Travel can be a great experience, one to broaden anyone's horizons.  You could visit a Caribbean island, and sit on the beach all day relaxing.  Or you could take a more educational vacation and visit places such as Spain, Italy, Paso Robles, or Argentina, and explore their wines, cuisine, and more. If wine is your passion, then such a journey should call to your heart.

“If you reject the food, ignore the customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay at home.” – James Michener

Before you visit a wine region, be sure to do some prior research, so that you are not a blank slate when you arrive. You can then arrive with more informed questions, ones that cannot be answered simply by visiting the winery's website. When you get to the region, be proactive, asking questions, participating in as much as you can. If you are offered the opportunity to experience something different, like harvesting grapes, then take it. Try new foods, learn local customs, and have fun.  Seize the moment and squeeze every ounce of knowledge out of your trip.

There is no need to worry if your traveling budget is limited, just seek out wine regions and wineries more local to you. Every state in the U.S. now produces wine, and are likely within driving distance of at least a few of them. That will give you options, and then you can save up for a larger trip out of the country, or even just to a different state across the country from you.  For example, Massachusetts has 25+ wineries, and many wineries from the rest of the New England states are only two to three hours away.  The New York wineries are a slightly longer trip, but still very doable.

“Once you have traveled, the voyage never ends, but is played out over and over again in the quiestest chambers. The mind can never break off from the journey.” – Pat Conroy

Upon my return home this week, I will have the seeds for many fascinating stories about Argentina and Chile. Though I have a few days remaining in Chile, I suspect they will be as compelling as the prior days I have spent in South America. And I will share the fruits of my travels with my readers in the coming weeks.

If you have visited a wine region, do you feel that it led to a better understanding of the region and its wines?

Tuesday, April 5, 2011

Mendoza: A Positive Initial Impression

Between Saturday and Sunday, I spent nearly twenty four hours in airports and on planes as I traveled from Boston to Mendoza, Argentina.  Most of that travel was uneventful and relatively painless, except for all the long hours it took.  But, there was one highlight, flying over the Andes Mountains between Chile and Argentina, part of which you can see above.  With my window seat, and clear weather, I was able to observe the Andes in all their breath-taking grandeur.

Though after a recent Twitter discussion with a couple of vegan buddies, it was hard not to think back to the book and movie Alive, where a plane carrying the Uruguayan rugby team crashed in the Andes, and some of the survivors resorted to cannibalism.  A bit morbid and gruesome (Ok, maybe more than a bit). But my flight had no problems and I safely landed in Mendoza.

After a short ride from the airport, we arrived at the Park Hyatt Hotel, a quite grand and elegant place. It has Old World charm but modern amenities, and you won't be disappointed staying here.  We ate lunch outside on their patio, Fred and I sipped rose at their wine bar/store, and even gambled in their casino.  In comparison to many U.S. casinos, it is fairly small, with a handful of table games and a bunch of slot machines. But limits are low, such as blackjack where you can play a hand for 10-25 pesos, about $2.50 to $6.00.  I have broken even so far so that is not too bad. It sure beats losing.

The hotel really knows how to make you feel welcome, and these lovely ladies manned the entry on Sunday.

Across the street from the hotel is the Plaza Independencia, a large, beautiful park which forms a busy center for the city. It seems that people are in the park all day and night, relaxing, walking, playing games, and more. There was an artisan fair on Sunday, kind of a flea market of sorts, though many of the vendors were selling new items.  Lots of jewelry, leather goods, incense burners, knives, and toys. 

There are a number of fountains in the park which appear to be popular spots to sit near.  Surrounding the sides of the park are a number of shops, cafes and restaurants, and there were some fast food vendors in the park as well.

The weather has been perfect, sunny and not too hot, with slightly cooler nights, though nothing where I needed a jacket.  And the weather should remain about the same for the rest of the week too. Even walking around the vineyards and wineries was very pleasant in this weather. But, the weather has delayed the harvest by a couple of weeks. 

Though this trip is sponsored by Winebow, a wine importer and distributor who represents several producers in Argentina, we are seeing far more than just Winebow clients.  In fact, about half the wineries we will visit are not Winebow clients. Their intention is to promote Argentina wine as a category, and not just their own client's wineries. For example, both of the wineries we visited on Monday are not Winebow clients. This has helped give us a more balanced view of the region, and I respect Winebow for arranging us to visit those wineries.

Much of our first day in Mendoza was free time, to relax and recuperate from our long flights.  But for dinner, we all walked a couple blocks to Francesco, an Italian restaurant, where we dined and drank wine with several winery representatives. The antipasto, pictured above, was a highlight, especially the fried olives. We got to drink several different wines, from a Zuccardi Torrontes to a Tomero Petite Verdot, a tease for the more in-depth tastings we would do the rest of the week.  Overall, I enjoyed all of the wines, and a couple were even impressive. The winery people were all quite personable, jovial and informative.  It was a nice, informal way to get an initial impression of them, as well as their wines. We even got to taste some Argentina olive oil, which was also impressive, especially that made with the Arauco olive.     

It has been a pleasure as well to reconnect with my friend Fred, and meet for the first time numerous other wine writers. Overall, it has been a very good group of people, and their combined knowledge and experiences have enhanced the trip.  We all have our own unique perspective on wine, and it is always beneficial to hear those perspectives, as they can positively impact our own.  Plus, we have had plenty of non-wine related conversations as well, from zombie flicks to CAFOs, from pets to favorite restaurants.

It is Monday night as I write this, after quite a full day visiting two wonderful wineries, and devouring some incredible food, from homemade empanadas to mounds of grilled meat.  I won't say much about Monday yet, except we have met some amazing people, tasted many glasses of interesting wine, and have learned plenty about Argentina and wine.  I already have taken many pages of notes, so you can look forward to numerous additional posts about my experiences in Argentina.

And I did get to eat a new animal as well!