Showing posts with label Chile Wines. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Chile Wines. Show all posts

Monday, December 11, 2017

2017: Top Ten Wines Over $15 (But Under $50)

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Last week, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only I enjoyed, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws. Please also note that this is technically a Top 12 list as three Sherries are tied at one spot.

1) Julien Brand La Bulle De L'Oueste Petillant Brut ($20.00)
A Sparkling Muscadet? This was my first such wine and it won't be the last. Made from 100% Melon de Bourgogne grape, this French wine is certified organic and was fermented by the Methode Ancestrale, also known as Pétillant-Naturel. It has a low 9.8% ABV, meaning you can have an extra glass without worrying much about getting too tipsy. As I raised the flute to my nose, visually delighted by the tiny bubbles, I was entranced with this wine, loving its appealing and intense aromas, such beautiful fruit with a wisp of the ocean. On the palate, there was lots of crisp acidity, delicious citrus notes, and a steely minerality with an herbal hint. It was fresh and tasty, each sip making you crave more. Highly recommended!

2) 2016 Vigneto Saetti Lambrusco Salamino di Santa Croce ($18.99)
This Italian Sparkling Lambrusco was produced from 100% Salamino di Santa Croce, from 40+ year old organic vines. The wine was a deep, almost purple color, with an alluring aroma of berries, violets, mild spices, and a hint of earthiness. On the palate, it has a creamy effervescence, with enticing, dry and juicy flavors of black cherry, raspberry, and ripe plum, with an underlying earthiness and mild spice notes. The tannins are well-integrated, the acidity is strong, and the finish is lengthy and pleasing. It was easy drinking but with plenty of complexity, the type of addictive wine which you'll likely finish the entire bottle before you know it.

3) 2011 Artevani Qvevri Aged Rkatsiteli ($30-$35)
One of the top three wines I enjoyed at the Boston Wine Expo, this Georgian wine is impressive on many levels. Artevani is a family-owned winery, seeking to produce more natural wines, reflective of terroir, and combining ancient traditions with modern technology. This wine is made from 100% Rkatsiteli, from seventy-year old vines, and is fermented in qvevri for about 24 days and then aged in qvevri for another 8-12 months. With a rich amber color, the wine presented with a fascinating aroma, an alluring mix of herbs, spices, and dried fruits. On the palate, I found a complex and intriguing melange of flavors and it was actually difficult to describe everything happening in my mouth. It was full bodied, with nice acidity, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This is the type of wine you slowly savor, enjoying the new and surprising flavors you encounter with each sip.

4) 2016 Valdespino Ojo de Gallo Palomino Fino ($15.99)
This Spanish wine is made from 100% Palomino Fino, the grape usually used to produce Sherry, but the producer chose to make an unfortified version. The organically cultivated grapes are 20-25 years old. Fermentation occurs in stainless steel tanks with indigenous yeasts, and then it is aged for about 6 months on the fine lees. With a 12% ABV, it has a nice golden color and the nose reminded me immediately of a Fino Sherry. On the palate, it also was reminiscent of Fino Sherry with a bright salinity, citrus flavors, a strong minerality backbone and savory notes. It was crisp and very dry, with a lengthy and pleasing finish. It was fresh, elegant and complex, an intriguing wine that certainly shows the potential for Palomino Fino in unfortified, still wines.

Bonny Doon Vineyard, based in Santa Cruz, California, produces a fascinating range of intriguing and delicious wines. Another of my top three wines from the Boston Wine Expo was their 2014 Clos de Gilroy “Cuvée Particuliere", which is produced mainly from Grenache with a little bit of Mourvedre. It was more of an Old-World style wine, with bright red fruit flavors, some peppery notes and a mild earthiness. It was complex and intriguing, an elegant and delicious wine that calls out for lamb or wild boar, or a hearty Italian ragu. The wine easily seduced my palate and it was hard to refrain from draining the bottle on my own.

6) 2015 Metrick Mourvèdre ($31)
Alex Russan, with his Alexander Jules Sherries, has been on these prior lists multiple times and this year he earns a spot for his non-Sherry wines. His Metrick Wines explore the different wine regions of California and the 2015 Metrick Mourvèdre is a blend of 85% Mourvedre, 5% Marsanne, 5% Counoise, and 5% Syrah. The wine was fermented in 50% stainless steel and 50% concrete. 95% of the juice was free run, and it was then aged for about 11 months in concrete. It was bottled unfined and unfiltered, and has a 12% ABV. This wine was thoroughly impressive, a light bodied and savory elixir. A complex blend of herbs, olives and earthiness dominated the taste, with subtle hints of berry. It was so ethereal on the palate, with a compelling taste, including a lingering finish, which made me crave a second and third glass. I would pair this with an herbed, roast chicken or a mushroom risotto, or maybe a venison steak.

7) 2015 Alapiani Shavkapito ($25)
Another Georgian wine, I was thoroughly impressed with this wine produced from the indigenous Shavkapito grape which is even in Georgia. Its name means "vine with a black cane" and is said to be terroir-reflective. The grapes were sourced from a vineyard in the Okami village of the Shida Kartli region and the wine was fermented and aged in qvevri. With an alluring aroma of black fruit and herbs, the wine presented with a fascinating melange of flavors, including ripe plum, blackberry and black cherry, along with herbal accents, a smoky note, and a touch of spice. Lots of complexity, smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish.

8) 2016 1865 Pinot Noir ($18)
Finding excellent Pinot Noir for under $20 is difficult so I was extremely taken with this Chilean wine. Made from 100% Pinot Noir, from the El Platero Vineyard in the Valle Del Elqui, the wine was aged for about eight months in a combination of foudres, concrete eggs and barrels. With a 13.5% ABV, the wine has a light red color, and an alluring and complex nose of red fruits and touches of earth and spice. Those aromas will draw you in and you won't be disappointed once you taste it. The wine is elegant and light bodied, with a complex and fascinating melange of flavors, including bright red cherry, more subdued black cherry, subtle spice notes, and underlying hints of earthiness. There was excellent acidity, mineral notes, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was well-balanced and compelling, reminding me in different ways to Burgundian Pinot as well as Oregonian Pinot, yet still with its own unique character.

9) 2013 Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton ($47)
I love Greek wines and this is a killer wine, compelling and delicious. It is a blend of three indigenous Greek grapes, including 50% Limnio, 25% Mavrotragano & 20% Mavroudi. This wine is fermented and aged in French oak, has a 14% ABV, and has an inky dark red color, with an alluring aroma of black fruit, mild spice, and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, the wine is muscular and big, though it is still elegant and the tannins are well restrained. There are complex & rich flavors of ripe plum, black cherry, and blackberry, enhanced by a spicy backbone, good acidity, and a hint of herbs. It is delicious and well-balanced, with a lengthy, pleasing finish. It would be great paired with hearty dishes, from a grilled steak to a leg of lamb.

10) 2016 Rară Neagră de Purcari ($22-$23)
Another tasty wine from Moldova, this Rară Neagră de Purcari was impressive, luring me in from my first sniff of its compelling aroma. The wine is made from 100% Rară Neagră, was fermented in stainless steel, aged in French oak barriques and has a 14% ABV. The aroma is very savory, with black fruit accents and subtle spicy notes. On the palate, it is medium-bodied, with soft tannins and good acidity. It presents an intriguing melange of bold flavors, ripe black fruit, spicy notes, hints of vanilla, and an almost meaty undertone. A lengthy finish completes this well balanced and delicious wine.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, which almost made the Top Ten list, I have an Honorable Mention list. These are also wines you definitely should check out.

Honorable Mention

1) 2015 Metrick Chardonnay ($36)
This Metrick Chardonnay is made with grapes from the Sierra Madre Vineyard, planted in 1971 and sustainably farmed, in the Santa Maria AVA. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged on the lees, in stainless, for about 11 months. It underwent malolactic fermentation, allowing it to be bottled unfiltered, and has a 12% ABV. I found this wine to be crisp and clean, with bright citrus notes and some minerality. There was some richness in the mouthfeel and it came across as elegant and delicious. I paired this wine with some stuffed clams and it was an excellent pairing. It was obvious that this Chardonnay would be perfect with seafood, from sushi to oysters.

2) 2015 Batono Qvevruli Tetri ($20)
This Georgian wine is an intriguing blend of three indigenous grapes, 40% Kisi, 40% Mtsvane and 20% Rkatsiteli. It was produced in both qvevri and oak, and was a fascinating and delicious wine with a unique melange of spice, dried fruit, herbal accents and a touch of eucalyptus. Each sip brought a new flavor combination to my palate and this is a very good value wine to savor and enjoy over time. This wine would work well with seafood dishes and roast chicken.

3) 2016 Alpha Estate Rosé ($19.99)
You should enjoy Rosé year-round and this Greek Rosé should please you. Made from 100% Xinomavro, it spent two months on the lees and has a 13% ABV. With a bright pink color, this wine has a delightful fruity nose and on the palate, it is crisp, dry and fruity, with tasty flavors of strawberry and cherry and subtle floral notes. It has a medium-body, with a lengthy, satisfying finish.  This would certainly be a food-versatile wine, from oysters to burgers, roasted chicken to pizza. Though sipping it on its own, while relaxing poolside, would be quite the pleasure as well.

4) 2013 Adega de Borba Reserve ($18-$19)
Another excellent value Portuguese wine, this is a blend of Aragonez, Trincadeira, Castelão and Alicante Bouschet. The wine spent about 12 months in French oak, and then another 6 months in the bottle. This is a delicious, complex wine and though it is also powerful in some respects, that power is restrained within a velvet glove, presenting a silky smooth taste. There are lush black fruit flavors, plenty of intriguing spice notes, and some exotic herbal accents. This is another wine which would benefit from pairing with meat dishes.

5) 2013 Vallegre Vinhas Velhas Reserva Especial (about $21)
Another tasty Portuguese wine, this is an intriguing blend of Tinta Amarela, Touriga Nacional, Touriga Franca, Sousão and Tinta Francisca, from 60+ year old vines. It presents as deep and dark, complex and smooth, spicy and tannic. Concentrated flavors of Rich ripe plum and flavors, with hints of chocolate and leather. A well-balanced wine with plenty of acidity and a lengthy, satisfying finish. So much going on in this wine, it is sure to impress.

6) 2015 Artevani Saperavi ($24)
The Georgian winery of Artevani also produced a compelling organic Saperavi, made from an old recipe and which sees no oak. With a dark red color, it presented with a fruity aroma, and a rich palate of red fruits with a hint of earthiness. It was smooth, with low tannins, good acidity, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. A wine that would pair well with plenty of different foods, from pizza to burgers.

7) 2011 Ktima Biblia Chora Biblinos ($35)
Another fascinating Greek wine, the Biblia Chora Biblinos is made from 100% of an unknown grape that was discovered on the slopes of Mount Pangeon. DNA testing couldn't identify the grape but it was able to verify that it was vitis vinifera, of Greek origin. Essentially this is a lost grape, one whose origins could extend back to the ancient Greeks, and it might never be identified. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then aged in French oak for about 12 months. With a 14.5% ABV, the wine is inky dark in color with an interesting aroma of black fruit with some light floral notes, like wild violets. On the palate, there is an intriguing and complex melange of flavors, with ripe plum, blueberry and black cherry up front and leading to some spicy and savory notes, especially on the long and lingering finish. Good acidity, some rich voluptuousness up front, and well-integrated tannins. The savory aspect, hints of herbs and roast meat, was compelling and I was well enamored with this wine.

8) 2013 Ramat Negev Ramon Petit Verdot ($39.99)
This Israeli winery saw its origins back in 1997, with a desire to establish a winery that was based only on local produce. Their Petit Verdot, from a single vineyard, spent about 18 months in new French oak and then six months in the bottle. With a powerful spicy aroma, this wine is deep and dark but with restrained tannins. It possesses juicy blackberry and plum flavors with a touch of blueberry, a spicy aspect, and a lengthy, pleasing finish. This is a wine that is probably best paired with food and it should also impress many wine lovers.

9) 2015 Survivor Pinotage ($18-$20)
This South African wine is made from 100% Pinotage and it was aged in 95% French and 5% American oak for about 18 months. Pinotage can be a divisive grape but I've always been a fan, and this example was compelling. I found it to be smoky and spicy, with deep flavors of plum and black cherry, with hints of vanilla, spice and bacon. The tannins were well integrated, it had a lengthy finish, and would be an excellent accompaniment with lamb, steak, or other roasted meats.

10) 2014 Enderle & Moll Basis Pinot Noir ($30)
Pinot Noir is probably not something you think of much when you consider German wines but maybe you should based on this fine example. It has only an 11.5% ABV, an amazingly low alcohol level compared to most other Pinot Noirs. This wine has a very light red color and on the nose, its present an alluring scent of cherry, mild spice and a touch of earthiness. On the palate, you'll be impressed with its elegance and complexity, its bright acidity and delightful flavors of red fruit, spice notes, earthy elements and a touch of herbs. With a lengthy and pleasing finish, this is a killer Pinot, one that can easily compete with Pinots from any other region. It seems like a wine reflective of place, and it was easy to finish the bottle over the course of an evening.


Summary

Eight countries made the list this year, as opposed to seven last year. Georgia and California occupy the most spots on my Top Ten list, each with two spots. The rest of the list is occupied by France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Greece, and Moldova. The list is also broken down into two Sparkling Wines, two White wines, one Rosé, & five Reds.

On the Honorable Mention list, seven countries made the list and Georgia, Greece and Portugal occupy the most places, each with two spots. The other regions include California, Israel, South Africa and Germany. The list is also broken down into two Whites, one Rosé, & seven Reds.

When you combine the two lists, Georgia is in first place with four spots while California and Greece are tied for second place with three spots each. Portugal has two spots while France, Italy, Spain, Chile, Moldova, Israel, South Africa and Germany all have only one spot. In addition, you'll find two Sparkling Wines, four White wines, two Rosé, & twelve Reds. Eight of the wines on these lists were tasted at the Boston Wine Expo.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting. I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Thursday, November 9, 2017

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) On Thursday, November 16, from 6pm-pm, check out the 8th Annual Raise Your Glass for Jimmy beer and wine tasting fundraiser will benefit the Jimmy Fund and cancer research & care at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute. The Jimmy Fund solely supports Boston’s Dana-Farber Cancer Institute, raising funds for adult and pediatric cancer care and research to improve the chances of survival for cancer patients around the world. It is an official charity of the Boston Red Sox, as well as the official charity of the Massachusetts Chiefs of Police Association, the Pan-Mass Challenge, and the Variety Children's Charity of New England. Since 1948, the generosity of millions of people has helped the Jimmy Fund save countless lives and reduce the burden of cancer for patients and families worldwide.

Guests will experience more than 25 beverage selections from six wineries and three breweries, including a variety of craft beers and local brands.
--Wine selections include: August West, Fit Vine West, Gordon’s Wine, M.S. Walker, Masciarelli, & Plymouth Bay Winery
--Beer selections include: Anheuser Busch, Down the Road Brewery, and Alltech Lexington Brewing & Distilling Co.

The event will also feature seasonal hors d’oeuvres and desserts from Prince Street Catering. Guests will enjoy music by The Diplomats of Funk and attendees can also participate in a silent auction.

The event is presented by the Dana-Farber Leadership Council (DFLC), a network of dedicated professionals, entrepreneurs, and community leaders whose mission is to advance Dana-Farber Cancer Institute and the Jimmy Fund’s lifesaving work in cancer research and patient care through financial support and advocacy.

COST: Tickets cost $60 per person. For more information or tickets, please visit: www.jimmyfund.org/raiseyourglass
WHERE: Eaton Vance, 2 International Place, 13th Floor

2) On Wednesday, November 15 at B3 Restaurant, Boston's top chefs will go head-to-head in the ultimate holiday showdown. From 5:30 to 7:30 p.m., chefs will compete in a holiday cook-off benefiting Share Our Strength's No Kid Hungry Campaign, which aims to eradicate childhood hunger across the nation.

Tickets cost just $25 and include unlimited bites from the competing chefs and two complimentary drinks. For more information, please visit https://ce.nokidhungry.org/events/boston-holiday-food-fight. For more information about Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry Campaign, please visit: https://www.nokidhungry.org/about-us.

3) Restauranteur Kathy Sidell’s MET Restaurant Group (MET Back Bay, Saltie Girl, MET Bar & Grill and MET on Main) is bringing back its iconic “Boston Hot Chocolate Experience” just in time for the holiday season. From November 25, 2017 through February 14, 2018, the Boston Hot Chocolate Experience is presented in a flight of four miniature glasses and hosts four distinct flavors for chocolate lovers including: Classic Hot Chocolate, featuring Vanilla Chocolate, whipped cream and mini toasted marshmallows, Espresso with an almond biscotti garnish, Caramel Sea Salt with whipped cream and caramel drizzle and finally, White Chocolate Peppermint Hot Chocolate featuring white chocolate, crushed peppermint stick, vanilla cream & candy cane.

To elevate the experience this season, the team at MET Back Bay (only) has added Tableside S’mores, letting guests toast and roast from the comforts of their own table with extra-large marshmallows, graham crackers, white chocolate, milk chocolate and dark chocolate.

Each flavor can be upgraded to an “adult version” with additions like, Bailey’s, Galliano Ristretto, Caramel Vodka and Peppermint Liquor. If hot cocoa lovers find that they are in the mood for just one, MET Restaurant Group has that covered. Customers can order any flavor as the “One Big One” presentation.

For more information or to make a reservation visit www.metbackbay.com or www.metbarandgrill.com.

4) Chef Daniel Bruce and the team at Boston Harbor Hotel invite guests to experience the best of Glenmorangie Highland Single Malt Scotch Whisky with a reception and three-course dinner in Rowes Wharf Bar.

On Wednesday, November 15, at 6:30pm, whisky lovers can embrace the crisp fall air and indulge in four varieties of Glenmorangie alongside a three-course dinner prepared by renowned Chef Daniel Bruce.

The full menu for the evening is as follows:
Reception
Glenmorangie The Original 10 Year
Maple Smoked Salmon, Whiskey Fritters, Black Salt Aioli
First Course
Glenmorangie The Quinta Ruban
Char Grilled Jumbo Sea Scallops and Foie Gras Toasted Barley, Melted Leeks, Black Kale Purée
Second Course
Glenmorangie The Nectar D’OR
Wood Grilled Prime Petit Filet, Crispy Wild Oyster Mushrooms, Roasted Pumpkin, Melted Cheddar Sauce
Third Course
Glenmorangie Extremely Rare 18 Year
Citrus Cake with Lychee Sorbet, Honey Cremeux, Grapefruit Curd

Tickets can be purchased on Eventbrite for $125 per person (including tax and gratuity). This is a 21+ event.

5) On Tuesday, November 14, at 6:30pm, Legal Sea Foods will host a wine dinner with selections from Concha y Toro Estates’s extensive portfolio of wines. Concha y Toro Estates is known for its French grape varieties made throughout the Chilean region. The plentiful sunshine and terrain in Chile paired with French winemaking techniques creates the premium homegrown taste of Concha y Toro Estates’ wines. Its wine portfolio includes icons such as Don Melchor and Almaviva, its emblematic Casillero del Diablo brand, as well as Trivento wines from Argentina, and Fetzer and Bonterra from California.

Legal Sea Foods will team up with Concha y Toro Estates’ wine expert Italo Jofré to host a four-plus-course dinner featuring signature cuisine paired with his selections from the Concha y Toro’s collection of wines.

The menu will be presented as follows:

HORS D’OEUVRES
Halibut Ceviche, Crispy Tostada
Squid Salad, Sesame-Lime Dressing, Wonton Cup
Prosciutto-Wrapped Sea Scallop, Béarnaise Sauce
Terrunyo “Los Boldos Vineyard, Block 5” Sauvignon, Casablanca Valley, 2016
FIRST COURSE
Lobster Empanada (creamed corn, thyme sauce)
Marques de Casa Concha Chardonnay, Limari, 2016
SECOND COURSE
Herb Roasted Swordfish (lemon caper sauce, kale & wild mushroom risotto)
Terrunyo “Peumo Vineyard, Block 27” Carménère, Cachapoal Valley, 2015
MAIN COURSE
Herb Crusted Rack of Lamb (gorgonzola & onion stuffed portobello mushrooms, watercress & beet salad)
Marques de Casa Concha Cabernet Sauvignon, Puente Alto, Maipo Valley, 2015
Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, Puente Alto, Maipo Valley, 2010
CHEESE COURSE
Aged Gouda, Brillat-Savarin, Aged Cheddar (mushroom escabeche, rosemary focaccia)
Don Melchor Cabernet Sauvignon, Puente Alto, Maipo Valley, 2013

COST: $105 per person (excludes tax & gratuity)
MORE INFO: Reservation required by calling 617-530-9397

Tuesday, October 24, 2017

From 1865 Selected Vineyards: A Killer Chilean Pinot Noir For Under $20

It's difficult to find a compelling Pinot Noir for under $20. Most under that price point are too simple, wines without character. They may be drinkable but they won't bring a smile to your face or a twinkle to your eye. However, when you find a sub-$20 Pinot Noir of complexity and elegance, a wine that tasted blind would make you think of a $30-$40 wine, then you've struck vinous gold.

Last week, I struck that vinous gold.

I had the pleasure of meeting Matias Cruzat (pictured above), the winemaker for the 1865 label of Viña San Pedro in Chile, for a private tasting of several of his wines. Viña San Pedro is the second largest winery in Chile, having been founded in 1865 in the Curicó Valley by the Correa Albano brothers. The winery has a number of different labels, and in 1997, they created the 1865 label, a nod to the date of their founding. The concept behind that label is to produce single-varietal wines from different terroirs, those which best represent the grapes.

Currently, they produce seven wines under the 1865 Selected Vineyards label, including Sauvignon Blanc, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Malbec, Syrah, Carmenere, and Cabernet Sauvignon. There are also two higher end categories under this label, including 1865 Special Editions and 1865 Limited Edition. The production of the 1875 wines often include use of concrete eggs (especially for the Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, and Sauvignon Blanc) and foudres (large wooden casks of French oak, from 1000 to 5000 liters).

Matias has been working for the winery for 4.5 years, and has prior experience working at wineries in California and South Africa. He was born in the U.S., to Chilean parents, as his father studied for his MBA in the U.S. and also worked for Proctor & Gamble in Cincinnati, Ohio. Overall, Matias is personable and engaging, upfront and intelligent. He is also a passionate advocate for his 1865 wines, as well as the wines of Chile.

The 1865 wines I tasted all cost under $20 retail, typically $17.99 at your local wine store, and are imported by United Liquors. At this price point, they are excellent values. Matias stated that as the cost of land and grapes are much lower in Chile, they are able to offer much better prices on their wines than you might find from other regions, such as California and Oregon.

The 2017 1865 Selected Vineyards Sauvignon Blanc is a 100% Sauvignon Blanc from the Santo Domingo vineyard in the Leyda Valley. The vineyard is only about 3.5 kilometers from the coast, one of the closest to the ocean. The vineyard also has primarily granitic soils and many fossilized shells have been found in the soil. The closeness to the ocean allows the grapes to ripen more slowly, leading to more aromatic wines with a strong mineral component. Only about 5000 cases of this wine were produced.

Fermentation takes about a month and about 20% of the grapes spent time in neutral French oak foudres, giving contact with the lees. The 2007 vintage was tough, a warmer vintage. The wine has a pale yellow color with the aroma of citrus and a touch of green pepper, the typical green of Leyda Valley. On the palate, Matias notes that the wine is unlike "New World explosive Sauvignon Blanc."  I found the palate to be complex, with intriguing citrus, including a touch of grapefruit, and mineral notes, a crisp acidity and a touch of green pepper. An interesting white wine with plenty of character at this price point.

The 1865 2015 Selected Vineyards Cabernet Sauvignon is 100% Cabernet Sauvignon from the Las Piedras vineyard of the Valle Del Maipo. The Cabernet spent about 12 months in 95% French and 5% American oak, with 50% first use and 50% second use barrels. About 50,000 cases of this wine were produced, so you should be able to find this readily available.

The Cabernet possesses a dark red color with a fruity aroma with hints of spice and a touch of chocolate. On the palate, it is soft and elegant, with low tannins, and a delightful melange of cherry, plum, and blackberry with subtle spice notes and a lengthy finish. Matias mentioned that the Maipo Valley is well known for the soft tannins in its grapes, one of the most important aspects of that area. With its softer tannins, this Cabernet doesn't need a steak to tame its tannins, and can also pair well with everything from a burger to a Bolognese. It might also work with a rich fish like Salmon or Tuna. This is a Cabernet with plenty of character and complexity at this price point, making it a very good value.

And to me, the clear winner of the tasting was the 2016 1865 Pinot Noir. Matias mentioned that he is obsessed with Pinot Noir and it's clear that he has created a stunning example in this wine. He noted that though some Pinot Noir had been planted in Chile many years ago, it is only within the last 10-20 years that anyone has become serious about it. The grapes for this wine come from the El Platero Vineyard in the Valle Del Elqui. About ten years ago, they planted their first vineyards in Elqui, starting with Sauvignon Blanc and then later planting Pinot Noir and Chardonnay. The vineyard is about 20 kilometers from the ocean and the region is both coastal and Andes, a cool climate region that once grew grapes primarily for producing Pisco.

The wine was aged for about eight months in a combination of foudres, concrete eggs and barrels. It has a 13.5% ABV, as Matias stated he didn't want to make a high-alcohol Pinot Noir. Matias also stated that this wine was produced in the same fashion as he would produce a high-end Pinot Noir. As only 1500 cases of this wine were made, it won't be around too long and could be more difficult to find, but I highly recommend you seek it out.

This Pinot Noir has a light red color, and an alluring and complex nose of red fruits and touches of earth and spice. Those aromas will draw you in and you won't be disappointed once you taste it. The wine is elegant and light bodied, with a complex and fascinating melange of flavors, including bright red cherry, more subdued black cherry, subtle spice notes, and underlying hints of earthiness. There was excellent acidity, mineral notes, and a lingering, satisfying finish. It was well-balanced and compelling, reminding me in different ways to Burgundian Pinot as well as Oregonian Pinot, yet still with its own unique character.

I could not rave enough about this wine. I tasted it without knowing the price and would have thought it easily cost $30-$40, and been worth that price. When I learned it cost less than $20, I was stunned. Initially, I was told it was less than $15, but later research indicated that was the wholesale price and it retails about $17.99. At that price, it is still a killer value and it receives my highest recommendation. I'm planning on stocking up on this wine and encourage all wine lovers to do the same.  

Kudos to Matias for producing such delicious and compelling wines at a great price point.

Friday, December 12, 2014

2014: Favorite Wine-Related Items

What were some of my favorite wine related items of the past year?

Let me continue the lists of my best recommendations and favorites of 2014. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, Top Ten Wines Over $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $50 lists. This post will now concentrate on some of my Favorite Wine-Related Items, which are not specific wine recommendations. This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year.

This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

Favorite Wines Analysis: In my three prior Top Ten Wine lists, I mentioned a total of 42 wines, which included wines from 12 different countries. At the top was France, with 10 wines, four of them from the Alsace region. In second place was Portugal with 8 wines and third place went to Spain with 7 wines. About 60% of my picks came from just these three countries. Uruguay made a strong showing with 5 wines, and the Hudson Valley of New York had 3 wines on the lists. Chile, with two wines on the list, was the only other country with multiple listings. The rest of the lists included wines from Argentina, Austria, California, Croatia, Italy, Lebanon, and South Africa,

Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight three such stores which continue to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, Wine Connextion in North Andover, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham. Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Winestone in Chestnut Hill
Vintages: Adventures in Wine in Belmont
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Bottega in Boston's North End
Central Bottle Wine & Provisions in Cambridge
Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I also work part-time)

Favorite Wine Magazine: For the sixth year in a row, Decanter, a British wine magazine, continues to impress me with its extensive coverage, including many less common wine regions, often ignored or marginalized in other wine publications. Plus it has an amusing wine cartoon in every issue. This is a magazine that consistently delivers fascinating articles and I always look forward to each issue. If you are not reading it, you should be.

Favorite Wine Book: A comprehensive book about Spanish Rioja, The Wine Region of Rioja by Ana Fabiano, is an excellent resource. It possesses great photography, is easy to read, and provides lots of insight into the wine makers of Rioja. My favorite sidebar of the book was "Voice of the Vintners" which provides quotes from about 30 different wineries on Tempranillo. There is such poetry in those quotes, and they provide a fascinating insight into Rioja. If you read those two pages alone, I think you would actually have a nice grasp of Rioja.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Book: An excellent introduction to the wondrous world of Sherry, I highly recommend Sherry: A Modern Guide to the Wine World's Best-Kept Secret, with Cocktails and Recipes by Talia Baiocchi. It is an easily understood exploration of everything from how Sherry is produced to a listing of Bodegas and recommended Sherries. There are also plenty of Sherry cocktail recipes and some food recipes as well. I love Sherry and it is great to see others advocating for it as well.

Favorite Wine Dinner: For the second year in a row, an Alsatian wine dinner was selected for this category. Compelling wines, superb food, and great people all combined to create an exceptional experience at Puritan & Co. As usual, the fine wines of Alsace impressed, showing diversity, complexity and value. In addition, three wines from this dinner were mentioned in my Favorite Wine lists. I'd never been to Puritan before, and the food more than satisfied. I'm eager to return to try more dishes from their menu.

Runner-Up Favorite Wine Dinner: At Alden & Harlow, I dined with Cristóbal Undurraga Marimón, co-owner and winemaker at Viña Koyle, a Chilean winery. Superb food, excellent wines, and plenty of stimulating conversation. It was also my first time at Alden & Harlow, and it too was impressive, from the Chicken Fried Rabbit to the delectable Lamb. Two of the Viña Koyle wines ended up on my Favorite Wine lists.

Favorite Private Wine Dinner: My vacation in Las Vegas this past summer, with several good friends, was excellent, and we ate and drank quite well. Our dinner at Sage was exceptional, with compelling food and wines, two of which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. The wine list had plenty of intriguing choices, and the mark-up actually was fairly reasonable. The Sommelier knew his wines well, and the group of us thoroughly enjoyed the experience.

Favorite Wine Lunch: Taberna de Haro has the best Spanish wine list in the Boston, as well as the largest Sherry list. They make excellent Spanish cuisine as well, and this all combined for a special lunch showcasing the amazing Sherries of Alexander Jules, all three which ended up on my Favorite Wine lists. Sitting outside, we savored the Sherries and tapas while enjoying pleasant and interesting conversation. It almost felt like we were transported to the streets of Barcelona.

Favorite Large-Scale High-End Tasting: The Vintner's Reserve Lounge at the Boston Wine Expo presented an impressive selection of high-end wines, with plenty of tasty food. It was a major improvement over the last few Vintner's Reserve Lounges that I had attended. There were about 100 wines available for tasting, and it was a more leisurely tasting, without the large crowds that attend the Grand Tasting. Some of the wines from this event ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year.

Favorite Large-Scale Tasting: The Mohegan Sun WineFest is a large, consumer wine event, which also showcases beer and spirits. In addition, there is plenty of food available at the event, to cleanse your palate and fill your belly. Its location, within a major casino, is also a plus, giving you plenty to do after the tasting is over. Several wines from this event have ended up on my Favorite Wine lists this year, which happens nearly every year.

Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Wines of Uruguay was such a delicious and informative event, a chance to try nearly 80 wines from 16 different wineries. Uruguay is an upcoming region which has previously been drinking most of their own wine. As their exports increase, you'll see their wines more and more on local shelves, and that is a very good thing. Sparkling, whites, reds and more. Lots of diversity, at all price points, and their signature grape, Tannat, is producing some amazing wines.

Runner-Ups of Favorite Regional Wine Tasting: The Austrians Like Them Young and Wines of Portugal tastings were also very worthy events. The Austrian wine event presented some nice comparison tastings of red wines made from indigenous grapes such as Zweigelt, Blaufränkisch and St. Laurent. The Portugal tasting presented about 200 wines, of all types, and offered a great overview of the wonders of Portuguese wine, from Vinho Verde to Port. Both events have wines on my Favorite Wine lists.

Favorite Twitter Wine Tasting: At a Twitter wine tasting, people from all over the world drink the same wines and then discuss them at the same time on Twitter. I have been participating in these tastings for years, and they can be lots of fun. The Crémant d'Alsace & The Spartans At Thermopylae presented four delicious Crémant sparkling wines, and plenty of interesting conversation on Twitter. Alsatian Crémant may not be on your radar but it should, offering excellent taste at a very good value.

Most Unique Wine Tasting
: While in the Hudson Valley, at one of the grand tastings, I got to sample the wines from Pazdar Winery, which included two chocolate wines! Previously, the chocolate wines I have tasted have seemed artificial and overly sweet. However, these were actually tasty and interesting wines, with real chocolate and a restrained sweetness. These aren't your normal type of wine, but they are well made and would appeal to many people.

Favorite Private Wine Tasting: My good friend Adam, of Wine Zag, hosts a monthly blind tasting event which is always fun and interesting. A group of 15-18 people are assembled, and we taste through about twelve wines, usually with some type of theme. From Champagne to Southern Italian reds, the themes range wide and the wines themselves range in price and style. The attendees include wine newcomers and more knowledgeable tasters, but there is a lack of pretension and the casual atmosphere is one of fun and discovery. This is the third year in a row this tasting has garnered this honor.

Favorite Wine Trip, Domestic
: This year's TasteCamp was held in the Hudson Valley of New York. It was informative and fun, and I discovered plenty of interesting wines and spirits. The region is beautiful and it was great to visit this developing wine region, which also possesses a rich and vibrant history. TasteCamp always does a good job of showcasing different wine regions, and this year was no different. Wines and spirits from this trip have ended up on my Favorite lists.

Favorite Winery Visit: While in the Hudson Valley region, our visit to the Hudson-Chatham Winery was a major highlight. Carlo Devito, owner of the winery, was an excellent host, leading us through a tasting of their wines, giving a tour of their solera, and feeding us lunch, including plenty of sliders. We saw Carlo's passion, and also saw the potential of hybrid grapes, such as Baco Noir. If you visit this region, you must stop at this winery.

Changes To Local Wine Laws: Last year, I wrote about two major legal issues, concerning wine, that took the spotlight in Massachusetts. Those issues involved shipping wine and removing the cap on liquor licenses. This year, positive progress was made on both issues, and hopefully that means additional positive changes will occur in 2015. First, in Rant: More Liquor Licenses Coming, I discussed how more liquor licenses were coming to Boston, and I hope these new licenses breathe life into certain neighborhoods. Second, in Rant: Caveats of Direct Wine Shipping, I explained how the new law allowing U.S. wineries to ship to Massachusetts is good news in some respects, but that there is still much more than needs to be done. Things are better this year for Massachusetts wine lovers, but let us hope it continues to improve.

My Wine Honor: In November, I received a great honor, being inducted as a Knight in the Brotherhood of Port Wine. The rank of Cavaleiro (Knight) is given to those who “have made a significant contribution to the understanding and prestige of Port Wine.” Only 13 people were inducted as Cavaleiros at the ceremony, and there are about 1300 worldwide. I took an oath to defend the honor of Port wine, so you can look forward to more articles about Port in 2015.

What were some of your favorite wine-related items this year?

Wednesday, December 10, 2014

2014: Top Ten Wines Over $50

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my third, and last, Top Wines List. I have already posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15 and Top Ten Wines Over $15. It is now time for my Top Wines Over $50.  Though I've tasted more than ten wines over $50 during the past year, I've only chosen to list those which were especially fascinating.

Like the prior lists, this list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these value wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1) 2005 Domaine Potinet-Ampeau Volnay 1er Cru 'Clo des Chenes' ($85)
This wine was a marvel from my first sniff of its aromas, a killer melange of earth and fruit, promising the best of French Burgundy. It too was elegant and ethereal, with a blend of complex flavors that seduced my palate. Each sip seemed to bring something different and the flavors seemed to last forever. A most impressive wine which is going to please any Burgundy lover. Brought in by Elden Selection, they have a great Burgundy portfolio and it is well worth checking out their other wines too.

2) 2001 Chateau Musar Blanc ($70)
This Lebanese white wine, made from two indigenous grapes, Obaideh and Merwah, is fermented in French oak barriques for 9 months. It's then bottled but not released until 7 years after harvest. It is a slightly oxidized style, and I loved it. More full bodied, it possessed a complex melange of flavors which intrigued my palate. Notes of honey and apricot, smoke and caramel, citrus and pear. Each sip seemed to bring new flavors to mind, and it evolved over the course of the dinner, getting more intriguing as the night went on. Highly recommended.

3) 2012 Sadie Family Die Ouwingerdreeks Soldaat ($54.99)
A South African wine from the Swartland region, this wine is made from 100% Grenache Noir, reminding me of some Rhône wines. The bold fruit flavors, from cherry to strawberry, were enhanced by spicy & earthy notes. It seemed both fresh and mature, an interesting dichotomy which made this a fascinating and delicious wine. Restrained tannins, a lengthy finish, and nice acidity make this another wine I highly recommend.

4) 2011 Artesana Tannat-Zinfandel-Merlot ($50+)
Though not yet available in the U.S., I eagerly await its entry. This Uruguayan wine, a blend of 55% Tannat, 25% Zinfandel and 20% Merlot, spent 24 months in French oak and only 130 cases were produced. The harmonious complexity of this wine was superb, and the restrained tannins made this wine even more compelling. There was so much going on in this wine, and all of it was pleasing and delicious.

5) 2011 Marichal Grand Reserve Tannat "A" ($55-$60)
This wine is only made in good vintages, and it spends about 18 months in oak and sees no fining or filtering. This was an alluring and seductive wine, with intriguing complexity, intense flavors, silky tannins, and a lengthy and satisfying finish. This wine shows the high-end potential of Tannat, how strong tannins can be made manageable, and the depth of flavors that can be drawn forth from this grape. Uruguay is a country to keep on your radar.

6) Quinta do Portal 20 Year Old Tawny ($57)
From one of the few Port houses owned by a Portuguese family, this aged Port presents with a light amber color and it is pure bliss. An alluring and complex aroma marries to an intriguing melange of flavors. It is silky smooth with a lengthy and very satisfying finish. It's difficult to describe this Port in words as it is something that needs to be experienced. Highly recommended.

7) 2011 Quinta do Vallado Reserve:($64.99)
This wine is a unique mix of a 70% field blend of old vines (about 80+ years old), 27% Touriga Nacional and 3% Sousão. The field blend consists of over twenty different grapes, including & Tinta Roriz, Tinta Amarela, and Touriga Franca. With a medium red color, this wine had an alluring nose, one which makes you sit and smell the wine for a time before tasting it. Once you sample it, you'll discover a complex and enticing melange of flavors, including ripe plum, black cherry, fig, dark spices, mineral notes and hints of earthiness. Silky tannins, a long and pleasing finish, and excellent structure & balance. It is a hedonistic, delicious wine which will make you crave another glass. It possesses a certain exotic element which I equate with Portuguese wines, a terroir element which appeals to me.

8) 1998 Bodegas Riojanas Monte Real Gran Reserva Rioja ($50+)
This wine shows the great potential of aged Rioja. It is a blend of 80% Tempranillo, 15% Mazuelo, and 5% Graciano and is aged for 24-30 months in American oak and then aged in the bottle for at least 36 months. With a medium-red color, it has an alluring nose of cherry, plum and spice notes, and you'll probably sit with your glass for a time just enjoying the aromas. On the palate, you'll find a complex melange of intriguing flavors, a harmonious blend of fruit, spice and herbs. Elegant and silky, the wine caresses your palate, thrilling your senses. The tannins are well integrated, the wine is well balanced, and the finish lingers on and on. Though it will pair well with many dishes, it will also please on its own.

9) 2010 Vina Koyle Auma ($99.99)
This is only the second vintage of this Chilean wine, a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot. The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity.

10) 2012 Bodegas Salentein Numina Gran Corte ($41) is a blend of 62% Malbec, 21% Cabernet Sauvignon, 7% Merlot, 5% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petit Verdot. I found this to be a fascinating wine from Argentina, possessed of a complex nose and taste, with great depth of flavor and a very satisfying, lengthy finish. Ripe plum, black cherry, hints of blueberry, lots of spicy notes, and hints of leather, cocoa and herbs. This is a wine to slowly savor, appreciating every complex and intriguing sip.

No single country or wine region dominated this list, and eight countries made the cut. Portugal and Uruguay both have two spots on the list, while the other spots were claimed by France, Lebanon, South Africa, Spain, Chile and Argentina. Red wines dominated though, taking 8 spots, with 1 spot for a White wine and 1 for a Fortified wine.

Not all expensive wines are worth their high price but these ten are wines well worth the splurge. These are the type of wines that words often cannot do justice. These are wines to experience and savor, not to dissect and analyze. These wines should be shared with others, with family and friends, to share the experience. With the holidays near, why not splurge and buy one of these wines.

If you have some of your own recommendations for unique and compelling wines over $50, please add them to the comments.

Tuesday, December 9, 2014

2014: Top Ten Wines Over $15

What were some of my favorite wines of the past year?

Welcome to my second Top Ten Wine List. Yesterday, I posted my Top Ten Wines Under $15, which I hope you enjoyed and found useful. Now it is time for my Top Ten Wines Over $15, though these wines also cost less than $50. In actuality, I have listed twelve wines, pairing three similar ones together from the same importer.

Like the prior list, this list includes wines that not only did I enjoy, but which I also found to be particularly compelling for various reasons. They might be especially delicious, something more unique or just excellent values for the price. They all stand out, for some particular reason, above the other wines at this price point that I have tasted this past year.

This is a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" wines out there. It is primarily the wines which spoke to me the loudest, even when they were subtle wines. These are all wines that I highly recommend and which I believe many other wine lovers will also enjoy.

The wines are not listed in any particular order and each choice is linked to my more detailed prior review. All of these wines are worth your consideration but please also note that the prices are approximations and the actual price may vary in your area. In addition, some of the wines might not be available in your local area, though you might be able to order them from the winery or an online store, dependent on your state's shipping laws.

1)  NV Vermut LaCuesta ($20)
At the Mohegan Sun WineFest, one of my favorite wines of the entire event was this impressive Spanish Vermouth. Tempranillo is the base of this fortified wine, and it presented with an intriguing herbal taste with only mild bitter elements and hints of sweetness. I tasted some of it on its own, as well as in a glass with ice, and in both instances, it was impressive. It is well balanced, and would be delicious on its own or in a cocktail. Highly recommended.

2) 2010 Inspiracion Valdemar Tempranillo Blanco ($30)
Made from 100% Tempranillo Blanco, a mutation of Tempranillo and only discovered relatively recently, this Spanish wine was aged on the lees in first year French oak. With a dark gold color, this wine had aromas and flavors of tropical fruits, accompanied by hints of honey, herbs and a touch of citrus. It possessed a very intriguing taste, good acidity and a long,pleasing finish. It is a wine to slowly sip and savor, though it pairs well with food too. A stunner of a wine.

3) Alexander Jules Sherries ($45)
Alexander Jules, kind of a negociant company, seeks out special Spanish sherry barrels, creating fascinating blends. I tasted their first three sherries, the Fino 22/85, Manzanilla 17/71, and Amontillado 6/26. All three were stunning examples, presenting plenty of complex and delicious flavors. These are Sherries to slowly enjoy each delectable taste, relishing the wonders found within each glass. I placed these three together because they are all special, share similar characteristics, and showcase the palate of the company's owner, Alexander Russan. These are the best sherries I have tasted all year.

4) Quinta de Santa Eufemia 10 Year Old White Port ($30)
A blend of Malvasia Fina, Gouveio, Moscatel Galego, and Rabigato, this aged White Port, a rare category, has a beautiful amber color. It possesses an alluring nose of floral and herbal notes, and on the palate the taste is complex and intriguing, a bit of an oxidative style. It has a tough of honeyed sweetness though it finishes dry, and the finish lingers long in your mouth. It is surely a Port to slowly savor, enjoying the multitude of flavors that pass over your palate.

5) 2008 José Maria da Fonseca Domini Plus ($40)
A blend of 65% Touriga Franca, 20% Tinta Roriz, & 15% Touriga Nacional, this Portuguese red wine spends about 12 months in new French oak. It possesses plenty of complexity and flavor, creating an elegant and enticing wine, that is still powerful yet restrained. This is a perfectly balanced wine, one to slowly sip and savor, thinking on everything to be found within your glass. It is an amazing wine, well worth the price, and which might cost twice as much in any other wine region.

6) 2011 Moric Blaufränkisch Reserve ($45)
This is am Austrian wine which stunned me with its complex pleasures. Each sip seemed to bring out different elements, from its blend of red and black fruits, to its strong minerality. There are intriguing notes of spice, herbs and even chocolate. The tannins are moderate but not overwhelming, and the wine lingers for quite a long time on your palate. One glass won't be enough for you, and this is a wine to impress your friends. Highly recommended.

7) Dopff et Irion NV Crémant D'Alsace Brut Rosé ($17)
This Alsatian Brut Rosé is made from 100% Pinot Noir and I likened it to a dish of strawberries and cream. Though dry and crisp, there was a rich creaminess to the wine, with plenty of delicious red fruit flavors, including plenty of strawberry. Complex and with a lingering finish, I found this to be a compelling wine, as well as an excellent value for the price.

8) 2012 Vina Koyle Gran Reserva Carmenere ($16.99)
This Chilean wine is a blend of 86.5% Carmenere, 8% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Petite Verdot. With a nose of black fruit and spice, I found this to be an elegant wine, with a delicious melange of black fruit, spice, minerality and hints of tobacco. It was silky smooth, with a long, satisfying finish. At this price, it is a good value for its complexity and quality.

9) 2013 Hudson-Chatham Baco Noir Old Vines ($18.95)
Made from 60 year old vines, this wine is made in Hudson Valley, New York, and was complex and intriguing, presenting a delicious melange of flavors, including ripe plum, blueberry, black cherry, vanilla and baking spices. It possessed a silky feel, was well balanced and had a lingering and pleasing finish. It may be a hybrid grape, but that shouldn't deter you from enjoying the high quality of this compelling wine.

10) 2012 Fausse Piste "Garde Manger" Syrah ($25)
A blend of Syrah from five vineyards in the Columbia Valley, there might be a tiny percentage of Viognier too. From your first sniff of the aromas of this wine, you'll probably be hooked. It possesses an alluring nose, a complex blend of appealing aromas, including lush fruit and a prominent earthiness. It brought to my mind wines from the Rhône. The taste of this wine lived up to the promise of its nose, and initially you'll be impressed by the depth of flavor within this wine, the complex melange of flavors that will flood your mouth, seducing your palate. Black fruit, spice, earthiness, minerality, and even more can be found within each sip. Silky tannins lead to a lengthy and satisfying finish. Everything is in balance in this wine, and it is absolutely compelling.

This is always my toughest list to compile because there are numerous other excellent wines which I could have added. I had to ponder long over which wines to actually select for the main list, meaning that I had to eliminate other worthy wines. To give some credit to those other worthy wines, for the second year in a row, I am adding an Honorable Mention list, to reference those other wines which nearly made my Top Ten list.

Honorable Mention
2011 Planeta Cerasuolo Di Vittoria Dorilli DOCG ($32.99)
2009 Cedro Do Noval ($22)
2013 Prieuré de Montézargues Tavel Rosé ($20)
NV Willm Cremant d'Alsace Blanc de Noirs Brut ($16)
Spain occupies the most spots on my Top Ten list, with three spots and five wines. Potugal, with two spots, is the only other region which occupied multiple spots. The other regions represented include Austria, Alsace, Chile, California and New York. The list is also broken down into 1 Sparkling Wine, 1 White, 5 Reds and 5 Fortified Wines. If you look at the Honorable Mentions, you'll find wines from Italy, Portugal, France, Alsace, New York, Uruguay, and Spain.

I have plenty of other recommendations for wines at this price point on my blog. There are top notch wines from countries all over the world, made from an incredibly diverse selection of grapes and you can still find plenty of values too. My advice is that you seek out wines outside of your comfort zone. Explore the multitude of diversity in the wonderful world of wine. Taste and try anything new, unique or potentially interesting.  I am sure your search will lead to new favorites.

If you have some of your own recommendations for wines that are over $15 but under $50, please add them to the comments.

Wednesday, October 15, 2014

Viña Koyle: Cristóbal, Carmenere & Auma

The art of blending. The death of 700,000 beetles. Cow horns filled with dung. An indigenous Chilean flower. The soul.

These were all fascinating topics that arose during a recent dinner I attended at Alden & Harlow with Matt Demers of Quintessential Wines and Cristóbal Undurraga Marimón, co-owner and winemaker at Viña Koyle, a Chilean winery. I'd been invited to meet Cristóbal (pictured above) and sample his wines. We had a fun evening, and I was impressed with his wines, especially his Carmenere wines and his top wine, Auma.

Though Viña Koyle was only established in 2006, its roots actually extend back to the latter part of the 19th century. In the early 1880s, Francisco Ramon Undurraga Vicuna began planting grape vines in Chile, vines he obtained from France and Germany. In 1885, Francisco founded his winery, Vina Undurraga, though his first harvest wasn't until 1891. Vina Undurraga was the first Chilean winery to export to the U.S. and during the 20th century, it became one of the largest wineries in Chile. However, in 2006, the Undurraga family decided to sell the winery and brand.

That sale didn't mean that the family was done with the wine business. They didn't wait and decided to start a new winery, a smaller, more artisan one, so they purchased about 2700 acres of land in the Los Lingues zone of Alto Colchuagua, in the foothills of the Andes. They didn't need to seek far for a wine maker, finding one in Cristóbal Undurraga, the sixth generation of their family.  

Cristóbal, who I found to be garrulous and passionate, originally didn't want to work in the large, family winery though he still possessed a strong affinity for wine. After graduation, he began to travel the world, seeking to learn all about winemaking. Beginning at Franciscan Estates in Napa, California in 2001, he later traveled, in 2002, to Rosemount Estates in Australia and then the famed Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux, France. In 2003, he was recruited to become the lead enologist at Vina Kaiken in Argentina.

However, he was eventually drawn back to Chile, to become the chief winemaker at his family's new artisan winery. They needed a name for their new winery and one day they rode horses into the nearby Andes, hoping for inspiration. While riding, they saw a beautiful purple plant that grew near the oak forests, and had to ask someone the name of it. In the indigenous language of the region, the plant, which is also an endangered species, is called koyle, The family were intrigued by the name and chose it for their new winery, Viña Koyle.

Cristóbal had strong ideas about this new winery, believing that Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah would be their primary grapes. Pedro Parra, the famed Chilean soil scientist, was hired to examine their land and he eventually determined there were 87 different units of microterroir on the estate. Cristóbal stated that previously in Chile, winemakers and viticulturists generally worked separately, however Pedro has helped winemakers better appreciate the place of the vineyards, leading toward a greater collaboration between winemakers and viticulturists. The effect of that has been to increase the overall quality of Chilean wine.

Though Cristóbal had been interested in organic viticulture since 2001, while he worked in Australia, he learned about Biodynamic agriculture and was intrigued. The more he learned about it, the more he desired to create a Biodynamic vineyard. Since then, he immersed himself in Biodynamic agriculture and their vineyard has been Demeter certified since 2012. He embraces all of the esoteric aspects, seeing positive changes in his vineyard which he directly attributes to Biodynamics. Animals are raised on the estate, including sheep, cows, horses, and honey bees, and various fruits and vegetables are grown there as well.

One of the initial challenges they faced at the vineyard involved something similar to a biblical plague of locusts. They found that some unknown type of nocturnal insect was devouring the flowers on their vines and they needed to stop them or they would destroy all of their vineyards. Taking watch at night, they could hear the sound of the insects' feeding, a chilling experience as it indicated a vast number of insects, and eventually identified them as a type of beetle unique to Chile.

As they couldn't use commercial pesticides, they decided to destroy the larvae by using Indian tea tree oil in the ground, and this was successful. Next, they set up about 2000 lights to attract and destroy the beetles  From a distance at night, the lights almost looked as if the winery was on fire. In the end, they destroyed about 700,000 insects, counting them by the cup-load. What an incredible amount of dead beetles! They would have posed a dire threat to any vineyard.

Currently, Cristóbal's greatest challenge is more holistic, as he wants even more life within the soil, as well as vine roots which extend down eight meters into the soil. Despite making great strides during the last eight years, he believes there is much more to do, saying that it may take fifty years to accomplish all of his objectives. Cristóbal lives on the estate, one of the few winemakers who does so, and thus can personally see all the changes in the vineyard. Most other winemakers live in the cities, and commute to the vineyards. It was very important to Cristóbal though for him to be there, to live on the estate, to rely on much of what they can grow and produce on the estate.

Viña Koyle currently produces about 36,000 cases of wine, though they have the capacity to double that but they want their growth to be slow and steady. They currently sell some of their excess Biodynamic grapes to other local producers. The winery exports about 90% of their wines, to 35 different countries, and their top three export markets include the  U.S., Belgium and the United Kingdom.

Cristóbal mentioned that he desires to produce wines that you can easily drink, which are not overly concentrated. He didn't want to make a wine where you have a single glass, but it is so big and concentrated that you didn't want a second glass. Since meeting with Cristóbal, I met a Spanish winemaker who voiced the exact same sentiment. I agree with both of these men, desirous of wines where I can easily drink multiple glasses over the course of an evening rather than a single glass of some huge wine.

Cristóbal and I also discussed the importance of blending, both of adding various varietals to the same wine, as well as adding different barrels of the same varietal. This also has become a familiar conversation that I've had with other wine makers, as well as spirit producers. Blending is both art and science, and its role seems to often be underestimated. It allows wines to acquire greater complexity, as well as more consistency.It allows a winemaker to have a greater input on the type of wine that results.

I tasted seven Viña Koyle wines, the first two (a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir) were organic while the other five were Biodynamic. All of the wines had been opened for about five to six hours before I tasted them.

The 2012 Koyle Costa Sauvignon Blanc ($23.99) is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard located about 9km from the Pacific Ocean. Cristóbal wants to make this wine with texture and high acidity, and not in the usual New World style. The vineyard, which was planted in 2006, has three exposures: north, south and a flat area. As such, each exposure is fermented differently, including Burgundy French oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel. In addition, the wine spends ten months on the lees and six months in the barrel. This is only the second vintage of this wine, and they plan to continue to make Sauvignon Blanc in this same way. With an alcohol content of 12.5%, this wine has bright aromas of citrus and a slight saline quality. On the palate, the wine is crisp, clean and tart, with pleasant grapefruit and lemon flavors, and strong mineral notes. Nice complexity, a lengthy finish and this would be an excellent seafood wine.

The 2012 Koyle Costa Pinot Noir ($34.99) is from the same vineyard as the Sauvignon Blanc and is made from 100% Pinot Noir. Cristóbal has studied how wine is made in Burgundy, seeking ideas on how Pinot could be properly grown in Chile. This is the third year that he has produced Pinot Noir, except he didn't bottle his first two attempts as he wasn't satisfied with the results. He stated that Pinot is "like a beautiful lady." and he sought to do justice to that image. I was impressed with this wine and think Cristóbal should be very happy with what he has produced. With an alcohol content of 14.5%, this wine had a pleasing aroma of red fruits with fleeting hints of other aromas, such as a hint of earthiness. On the palate, this was an elegant and complex wine, with bright cherry and raspberry flavors, minerality and a touch of earth. It is worth the price, and will remind you more of Burgundy than California.

These next two wine, Gran Reservas, are Biodynamic, and Cristóbal mentioned that he recently has begun thinking that the wines might be better labeled as "Wild Reserva," in reference to their more natural composition.

The 2012 Koyle Gran Reserva Carmenere ($16.99) is a blend of 86.5% Carmenere, 8% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Petite Verdot and has an alcohol content of 14%.  Cristóbal stated that too much Carmenere in Chile is either too vegetal/green or is too ripe. He believes that the key to making it properly is low yields. As I dislike the vegetal/green aspect in Carmenere, I was pleased to find it didn't exist in this Koyle wine. With a nose of black fruit and spice, I found this to be an elegant wine, with a delicious melange of black fruit, spice, minerality and hints of tobacco. It was silky smooth, with a long, satisfying finish. At this price, it is agood value for its complexity and quality. Cristóbal recommends this wine for pasta and risotto. Highly recommended.

The 2012 Koyle Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.99) is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot and has an alcohol content of 14%. This was produced to be a gastronomic wine. I found this to be more of a dark and brooding wine, with ripe plum and black berry fruits, combined with mineral notes and spice and with a background of moderate tannins. It isn't a fruit forward style, but more of a wine that needs a thick steak or hearty pasta to complement it.

A step-up in their portfolio is the 2011 Koyle Royale Carmenere ($25.99), a blend of 85% Carmenere, 9% Petite Verdot, and 6% Malbec. I enjoyed the Gran Reserva Carmenere, but this truly impressed, elevating all of the good qualities to a higher level. The enticing aroma presented violet notes and black fruits, and on the palate it was elegant, with silky tannins and a deep complexity of flavor. The harmonious flavors included lush black fruits, plenty of spiciness and a rich minerality. One of the best Carmeneres I have tasted in some time. Highly recommended. It is also recommended that you decant this wine at least 30 minutes before serving.

The 2010 Koyle Royale Cabernet Sauvignon ($25.99) is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, and 5% Petite Verdot, and an alcohol content of 14.5%. Again, this wine is similar to the Gran Reserva, though elevates the quality. It remains dark and brooding wine, but with more intense and complex flavors. It is also recommended that you decant this wine at least 30 minutes before serving.

The apex of the tasting was the 2010 Koyle Auma ($99.99) is a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot, with an alcohol content of 14.3%. "Alma" is the Spanish word for the "soul", and they substituted the letter "U" for the "L" to reflect their family name, Underruga. Thus, this wine is the soul of their family, of their new winery. It is the wine which has been Cristóbal's dream from the beginning. This is the second vintage of this wine and only 692 6-bottle wood cases were produced. The wine, using only grapes from their best vineyards, was fermented in separate lots, and then aged, also in separate lots for about 24 months in French oak, about 50% new. It is then blended together by gravity in a concrete egg tank, and then aged for an additional 9 months in the concrete. It is unfiltered and should be able to age well for at least ten years in the cellar.

The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity. Slowly savor this wine over the course of an evening with a good friend. My highest recommendation.

Despite the time and effort required to run Viña Koyle, Cristóbal still seems to have some time to engage in other wine endeavors. For example, he is currently working on producing a wine in Southern France. In addition, he is part of a new producer in Argentina, Larrain, Lasmartres, Toso & Undurraga, located in the Uco Valley. This endeavor is the work of six partners, 3 from Chile and 3 from Arrgentina. They make single vineyard Malbecs, from Don Fernando Vineyards in La Consulta. It is an organic vineyard, at an altitude of about 3,000 feet, one which Cristóbal hopes might become Biodynamic one day.

I got to sample one of these wines, the 2009 LTU ($64.99), which is produced from 100% Malbec, has an alcohol content of 14.7%, and only 1,000 six-bottles cases were produced. With a dark purplish color, this is a very concentrated wine with tasty plum, blackberry and blueberry notes. There is a nice depth of flavor and a certain elegance. It is still young and though it is drinkable now, I would like to see how it develops over time.

Cristóbal's passion for wine is infectious, and he is producing an excellent range of wines, from Pinot Noir to Carmenere. Our stimulating conversation raised several important issues, from blending to Biodynamics. All of the wines paired very well with food, and they certainly were the type of wines you could satisfactorily drink a few glasses.

Seek out the wines of Viña Koyle and explore the wonders of Chilean wine.