2023 Parajes del Valle Bobal Ecologia Rosado: A Delicious Spanish Rosé

Parajes del Valle, which was established in 2018, is located in Jumilla, in the southeast region of Spain and occupies about 65 hectares. Monastrell is the most dominant grape in that region. Their wine maker is Maria Jover, who is about 28 years old, and once worked at the famed Vega Sicilia. Her objective is to produce wines with minimal intervention and true to the terroir of the region. 

The winery has also extended its operations into the Manchuela D.O., which is located more in the center of Spain, and bordering Jumilla. The primary grapes in this region include Bobal, Tempranillo, Garnacha, Monastrell, Macao, and others. Wines from this region are less commonly found in the U.S. despite the quality of their wines. 

The 2023 Parajes del Valle Bobal Ecologia Rosado (about $16-18) is made from 100% Bobal, organically grown, from the Manchuelo DOP. Bobal is indigenous to the region of Utiel-Requena, but it's grown in a few other regions, such as Manchuela, and its history extends back at least to the 15th century. Bobal derives its name from the Latin term "bovale" which refers to the shape of a bull’s head. For this wine, the Bobal grapes are from high-elevation vineyards, which average 45 years old, with solids rich in clay and limestone. 

The Bobal grapes are pressed, without maceration, and fermented with native yeasts in concrete. The wine is then aged in concrete tanks until bottling. With a 12% ABV, the Rosé has a darker pink color with an alluring nose of red fruits with subtle herbal notes. On the palate, it's dry and crisp, with delicious and complex flavors of raspberry, cherry, and strawberries and more subtle citrus and melon flavors. It's also accented with intriguing herbal notes, a touch of minerality, and possesses a lengthy and pleasing finish. An excellent Rosé, it works well on its own during this hot summer weather but also is very food friendly, and does well with seafood. Highly recommended!   

Locally, this wine can be found at Bin Ends.

Viña Koyle: Cristóbal, Carmenere & Auma

The art of blending. The death of 700,000 beetles. Cow horns filled with dung. An indigenous Chilean flower. The soul.

These were all fascinating topics that arose during a recent dinner I attended at Alden & Harlow with Matt Demers of Quintessential Wines and Cristóbal Undurraga Marimón, co-owner and winemaker at Viña Koyle, a Chilean winery. I'd been invited to meet Cristóbal (pictured above) and sample his wines. We had a fun evening, and I was impressed with his wines, especially his Carmenere wines and his top wine, Auma.

Though Viña Koyle was only established in 2006, its roots actually extend back to the latter part of the 19th century. In the early 1880s, Francisco Ramon Undurraga Vicuna began planting grape vines in Chile, vines he obtained from France and Germany. In 1885, Francisco founded his winery, Vina Undurraga, though his first harvest wasn't until 1891. Vina Undurraga was the first Chilean winery to export to the U.S. and during the 20th century, it became one of the largest wineries in Chile. However, in 2006, the Undurraga family decided to sell the winery and brand.

That sale didn't mean that the family was done with the wine business. They didn't wait and decided to start a new winery, a smaller, more artisan one, so they purchased about 2700 acres of land in the Los Lingues zone of Alto Colchuagua, in the foothills of the Andes. They didn't need to seek far for a wine maker, finding one in Cristóbal Undurraga, the sixth generation of their family.  

Cristóbal, who I found to be garrulous and passionate, originally didn't want to work in the large, family winery though he still possessed a strong affinity for wine. After graduation, he began to travel the world, seeking to learn all about winemaking. Beginning at Franciscan Estates in Napa, California in 2001, he later traveled, in 2002, to Rosemount Estates in Australia and then the famed Chateau Margaux in Bordeaux, France. In 2003, he was recruited to become the lead enologist at Vina Kaiken in Argentina.

However, he was eventually drawn back to Chile, to become the chief winemaker at his family's new artisan winery. They needed a name for their new winery and one day they rode horses into the nearby Andes, hoping for inspiration. While riding, they saw a beautiful purple plant that grew near the oak forests, and had to ask someone the name of it. In the indigenous language of the region, the plant, which is also an endangered species, is called koyle, The family were intrigued by the name and chose it for their new winery, Viña Koyle.

Cristóbal had strong ideas about this new winery, believing that Carmenere, Cabernet Sauvignon and Syrah would be their primary grapes. Pedro Parra, the famed Chilean soil scientist, was hired to examine their land and he eventually determined there were 87 different units of microterroir on the estate. Cristóbal stated that previously in Chile, winemakers and viticulturists generally worked separately, however Pedro has helped winemakers better appreciate the place of the vineyards, leading toward a greater collaboration between winemakers and viticulturists. The effect of that has been to increase the overall quality of Chilean wine.

Though Cristóbal had been interested in organic viticulture since 2001, while he worked in Australia, he learned about Biodynamic agriculture and was intrigued. The more he learned about it, the more he desired to create a Biodynamic vineyard. Since then, he immersed himself in Biodynamic agriculture and their vineyard has been Demeter certified since 2012. He embraces all of the esoteric aspects, seeing positive changes in his vineyard which he directly attributes to Biodynamics. Animals are raised on the estate, including sheep, cows, horses, and honey bees, and various fruits and vegetables are grown there as well.

One of the initial challenges they faced at the vineyard involved something similar to a biblical plague of locusts. They found that some unknown type of nocturnal insect was devouring the flowers on their vines and they needed to stop them or they would destroy all of their vineyards. Taking watch at night, they could hear the sound of the insects' feeding, a chilling experience as it indicated a vast number of insects, and eventually identified them as a type of beetle unique to Chile.

As they couldn't use commercial pesticides, they decided to destroy the larvae by using Indian tea tree oil in the ground, and this was successful. Next, they set up about 2000 lights to attract and destroy the beetles  From a distance at night, the lights almost looked as if the winery was on fire. In the end, they destroyed about 700,000 insects, counting them by the cup-load. What an incredible amount of dead beetles! They would have posed a dire threat to any vineyard.

Currently, Cristóbal's greatest challenge is more holistic, as he wants even more life within the soil, as well as vine roots which extend down eight meters into the soil. Despite making great strides during the last eight years, he believes there is much more to do, saying that it may take fifty years to accomplish all of his objectives. Cristóbal lives on the estate, one of the few winemakers who does so, and thus can personally see all the changes in the vineyard. Most other winemakers live in the cities, and commute to the vineyards. It was very important to Cristóbal though for him to be there, to live on the estate, to rely on much of what they can grow and produce on the estate.

Viña Koyle currently produces about 36,000 cases of wine, though they have the capacity to double that but they want their growth to be slow and steady. They currently sell some of their excess Biodynamic grapes to other local producers. The winery exports about 90% of their wines, to 35 different countries, and their top three export markets include the  U.S., Belgium and the United Kingdom.

Cristóbal mentioned that he desires to produce wines that you can easily drink, which are not overly concentrated. He didn't want to make a wine where you have a single glass, but it is so big and concentrated that you didn't want a second glass. Since meeting with Cristóbal, I met a Spanish winemaker who voiced the exact same sentiment. I agree with both of these men, desirous of wines where I can easily drink multiple glasses over the course of an evening rather than a single glass of some huge wine.

Cristóbal and I also discussed the importance of blending, both of adding various varietals to the same wine, as well as adding different barrels of the same varietal. This also has become a familiar conversation that I've had with other wine makers, as well as spirit producers. Blending is both art and science, and its role seems to often be underestimated. It allows wines to acquire greater complexity, as well as more consistency.It allows a winemaker to have a greater input on the type of wine that results.

I tasted seven Viña Koyle wines, the first two (a Sauvignon Blanc and a Pinot Noir) were organic while the other five were Biodynamic. All of the wines had been opened for about five to six hours before I tasted them.

The 2012 Koyle Costa Sauvignon Blanc ($23.99) is produced from 100% Sauvignon Blanc from a vineyard located about 9km from the Pacific Ocean. Cristóbal wants to make this wine with texture and high acidity, and not in the usual New World style. The vineyard, which was planted in 2006, has three exposures: north, south and a flat area. As such, each exposure is fermented differently, including Burgundy French oak barrels, concrete and stainless steel. In addition, the wine spends ten months on the lees and six months in the barrel. This is only the second vintage of this wine, and they plan to continue to make Sauvignon Blanc in this same way. With an alcohol content of 12.5%, this wine has bright aromas of citrus and a slight saline quality. On the palate, the wine is crisp, clean and tart, with pleasant grapefruit and lemon flavors, and strong mineral notes. Nice complexity, a lengthy finish and this would be an excellent seafood wine.

The 2012 Koyle Costa Pinot Noir ($34.99) is from the same vineyard as the Sauvignon Blanc and is made from 100% Pinot Noir. Cristóbal has studied how wine is made in Burgundy, seeking ideas on how Pinot could be properly grown in Chile. This is the third year that he has produced Pinot Noir, except he didn't bottle his first two attempts as he wasn't satisfied with the results. He stated that Pinot is "like a beautiful lady." and he sought to do justice to that image. I was impressed with this wine and think Cristóbal should be very happy with what he has produced. With an alcohol content of 14.5%, this wine had a pleasing aroma of red fruits with fleeting hints of other aromas, such as a hint of earthiness. On the palate, this was an elegant and complex wine, with bright cherry and raspberry flavors, minerality and a touch of earth. It is worth the price, and will remind you more of Burgundy than California.

These next two wine, Gran Reservas, are Biodynamic, and Cristóbal mentioned that he recently has begun thinking that the wines might be better labeled as "Wild Reserva," in reference to their more natural composition.

The 2012 Koyle Gran Reserva Carmenere ($16.99) is a blend of 86.5% Carmenere, 8% Malbec, 3% Cabernet Franc, and 2.5% Petite Verdot and has an alcohol content of 14%.  Cristóbal stated that too much Carmenere in Chile is either too vegetal/green or is too ripe. He believes that the key to making it properly is low yields. As I dislike the vegetal/green aspect in Carmenere, I was pleased to find it didn't exist in this Koyle wine. With a nose of black fruit and spice, I found this to be an elegant wine, with a delicious melange of black fruit, spice, minerality and hints of tobacco. It was silky smooth, with a long, satisfying finish. At this price, it is agood value for its complexity and quality. Cristóbal recommends this wine for pasta and risotto. Highly recommended.

The 2012 Koyle Gran Reserva Cabernet Sauvignon ($16.99) is a blend of 85% Cabernet Sauvignon, 10% Cabernet Franc, and 5% Petite Verdot and has an alcohol content of 14%. This was produced to be a gastronomic wine. I found this to be more of a dark and brooding wine, with ripe plum and black berry fruits, combined with mineral notes and spice and with a background of moderate tannins. It isn't a fruit forward style, but more of a wine that needs a thick steak or hearty pasta to complement it.

A step-up in their portfolio is the 2011 Koyle Royale Carmenere ($25.99), a blend of 85% Carmenere, 9% Petite Verdot, and 6% Malbec. I enjoyed the Gran Reserva Carmenere, but this truly impressed, elevating all of the good qualities to a higher level. The enticing aroma presented violet notes and black fruits, and on the palate it was elegant, with silky tannins and a deep complexity of flavor. The harmonious flavors included lush black fruits, plenty of spiciness and a rich minerality. One of the best Carmeneres I have tasted in some time. Highly recommended. It is also recommended that you decant this wine at least 30 minutes before serving.

The 2010 Koyle Royale Cabernet Sauvignon ($25.99) is a blend of 89% Cabernet Sauvignon, 6% Malbec, and 5% Petite Verdot, and an alcohol content of 14.5%. Again, this wine is similar to the Gran Reserva, though elevates the quality. It remains dark and brooding wine, but with more intense and complex flavors. It is also recommended that you decant this wine at least 30 minutes before serving.

The apex of the tasting was the 2010 Koyle Auma ($99.99) is a blend of 37% Cabernet Sauvignon, 25% Carmenere, 18% Malbec, 13% Syrah, and 7% Petite Verdot, with an alcohol content of 14.3%. "Alma" is the Spanish word for the "soul", and they substituted the letter "U" for the "L" to reflect their family name, Underruga. Thus, this wine is the soul of their family, of their new winery. It is the wine which has been Cristóbal's dream from the beginning. This is the second vintage of this wine and only 692 6-bottle wood cases were produced. The wine, using only grapes from their best vineyards, was fermented in separate lots, and then aged, also in separate lots for about 24 months in French oak, about 50% new. It is then blended together by gravity in a concrete egg tank, and then aged for an additional 9 months in the concrete. It is unfiltered and should be able to age well for at least ten years in the cellar.

The wine is an inky dark color with an enticing nose of black fruits with eucalyptus notes. On the palate, it is seductive and alluring, a silky liquid which tantalizes the mind with its complex and harmonious blend of flavors. It is a wine where description becomes inadequate, where the best understanding comes from experiencing it. It may remind you of a high-end Bordeaux, though even if not, you are going to be impressed with its quality and complexity. Slowly savor this wine over the course of an evening with a good friend. My highest recommendation.

Despite the time and effort required to run Viña Koyle, Cristóbal still seems to have some time to engage in other wine endeavors. For example, he is currently working on producing a wine in Southern France. In addition, he is part of a new producer in Argentina, Larrain, Lasmartres, Toso & Undurraga, located in the Uco Valley. This endeavor is the work of six partners, 3 from Chile and 3 from Arrgentina. They make single vineyard Malbecs, from Don Fernando Vineyards in La Consulta. It is an organic vineyard, at an altitude of about 3,000 feet, one which Cristóbal hopes might become Biodynamic one day.

I got to sample one of these wines, the 2009 LTU ($64.99), which is produced from 100% Malbec, has an alcohol content of 14.7%, and only 1,000 six-bottles cases were produced. With a dark purplish color, this is a very concentrated wine with tasty plum, blackberry and blueberry notes. There is a nice depth of flavor and a certain elegance. It is still young and though it is drinkable now, I would like to see how it develops over time.

Cristóbal's passion for wine is infectious, and he is producing an excellent range of wines, from Pinot Noir to Carmenere. Our stimulating conversation raised several important issues, from blending to Biodynamics. All of the wines paired very well with food, and they certainly were the type of wines you could satisfactorily drink a few glasses.

Seek out the wines of Viña Koyle and explore the wonders of Chilean wine.

Rant: Don't Bottle Yourself In

When you peruse the shelves of a wine store and see a wine in a Tetra Pak, what do you think about it? Do you pass by it, thinking it contains lesser wine? Will you only buy wine that comes in a bottle? If so, why are you such a wine snob? Stop ignoring the Tetra Pak.

In some respects, you can consider wine in a Tetra Pak to be akin to grownup juice box, but without a straw (though I'd love to see one come with a straw). Tetra Paks are better for the environment in a number of ways, making it a more sustainable choice than a bottle. It is said: "Tetra Pak cartons* use 54% less energy, create 80% less greenhouse gasses, produce 60% less solid waste volume and also have 92% less package weight, compared to a 750ml glass wine bottle." A Tetra Pak gives you more wine, as it contains a liter of wine rather than the 750ml of the average wine bottle. They are portable and convenient, not requiring a corkscrew. You can take them to the beach, on a camping trip, on a boat, and much more with the worries of glass.

I have previously trumpeted the Tetra Pak wines of Y+B Wines, which sell a variety of organic wines from all over the world. No matter how good the packaging, the wine inside them has to be good and Y+B Wines proved that delicious wine can come in a Tetra Pak. You just need to get past any preconceptions you have that wine must come in a glass bottle.

This past Saturday, I poured samples of a couple Tetra Pak wines at Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose. The wines were from Fuoristrada, which is owned by Michael Schmelzer of Monte Bernardi, a Biodynamic winery in Tuscany. They now produce two organic wines in Tetra Pak, a white and a red, a Grillo from Sicily and a Sangiovese from Tuscany. Both wines, priced at $15 for the one liter Tetra Pak, are good values and I recommend them both.

I found consumers to be initially curious about the Tetra Paks, even a little wary, but that soon changed once I discussed the benefits of Tetra Paks. They were especially pleased with the convenience of the Tetra Paks, and discussed how great they would be this summer. And once they tasted the wines, they were even more convinced, as they enjoyed the flavors of the wines. It was clear that there was ignorance about the existence of Tetra Paks, but that consumers were open minded about the possibilities once it was explained to them.

So throw away your prejudices about drinking only wine in a bottle. There are alternative packagings that offer different benefits, and the wine within them is just as good as many bottled wines.

Mutemuka Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu: The Rarity of Organic Sake

Organic Sake is a rarity, largely due to the nature of rice agriculture in Japan. Most rice is cultivated on hillside terraces where water filters down through the terraces from the top of the hill. Thus, if you want to be organic, all of your neighbors above you on the hill must also be organic, or their water would corrupt your efforts. Plus, it can be difficult if your close neighbors use pesticides, which can easily blow in the wind onto your terraces.

In addition, Japan has strict regulations concerning organic Sake, not only in the fields but also in the brewery itself. It takes a great commitment to become organic. You must also realize that yields of organic rice paddies are approximately 50% less than ordinary paddies, and organic production costs are about 25% higher. It isn't cheap to be organic, especially considering that rice is often the most expensive element in Sake production.

You may have seen some organic Sakes at your local shop but many of those actually use organic rice sourced from California. I previously reviewed one of the few organic Sakes that actually used organic rice from Japan. We must also understand that a Sake may be organic but hasn't received certification from the U.S.yet. It can be a confusing situation for consumers who seek out organic Sake.

Earlier this week, I drank an intriguing Sake from an organic producer, another excellent addition to the portfolio of The Floating World, a small Sake importer based in New Mexico. I previously raved about this importer and several of their compelling Sakes, and they sent me a sample of their newest acquisition.

The Mutemuka Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu ($76/720ml) is produced by the Mutemuka Shuzo, which is located in the Kōchi Prefecture and was founded in 1893. The term "mutemuka" roughly translates as "a Sake made with pure intentions, without ornamentation." About 30 years ago, the brewery introduced organic farming to its rice, even though neighboring farmers weren't happy with his decision. The Kōchi Prefecture is well known for its numerous rivers and Mutemuka sits close to Shimanto River, famed for its purity and sometimes called "the last clear stream of Japan." Using water so pure only adds to the value of organic Sake.

As an aside, Mutemuka also makes shochu, a distilled liquor, and they produce a special type, kuri-jochu, chestnut shochu. This is supposed to be a smooth drink, and one will improve with age.

The Mutemuka Junmai Muroka Nama Genshu is more unique as it is a premium Sake made from two types of rice, including a table rice. For their moto, the yeast starter, they use Kaze Naruko, which is a Sake rice grown only in the Kōchi Prefecture. For the fermentation tank though, they use Hino-Hikari, a type of table rice, which means this Sake uses more table rice than Sake rice. Nearly all futsu-shu, ordinary Sake, is made from table rice but it is more a rarity in premium Sake. However, there are some excellent examples which indicate that quality Sake can be made from table rice. That should be good news to U.S. Sake producers who use table rice for their premium Sake.

For this Sake, the rice is polished down to 65%, and has an SMV of +5, which would tend to make you believe it should be dry. In this case, you would be correct. As it is a Muroka Nama Genshu, that means that it undergoes no charcoal filtration, pasteurization or dilution. As a Nama, you need to refrigerate it so it doesn't go bad. The Sake is also aged for about half a year at room temperature.

Up front, there is a fruity taste, some melon and pear notes, but that quickly transforms on your palate into a more savory and earthy element, which then dominates your mouth. A surge of umami floods your palate, with hints of herbal notes and a tinge of bitterness. It possesses a fascinating complexity and this is also a very food friendly Sake, especially because of its high umami. Another winner from The Floating World.

Modern Farmer Magazine: A Debut, With Chicken Love

Do you care about the source of your food? Do you prefer local, organic products? Do you frequent farmers' markets and local farms? Do you belong to a CSA or CSF? Do you grow your own herbs,  vegetables or fruits? Do you have respect for farmers? Do you want to learn about all of these topics, and more? If you answer affirmatively to any of these questions, then I recommend you check out a new quarterly magazine, Modern Farmer.

While perusing the magazine stands at Barnes & Noble, I noticed the inaugural issue of Modern Farmer, which was newly released. As I flipped through the pages, it intrigued me, with its fascinating photography and article topics. I bought a copy and have spent several days enjoying its contents. The magazine makes a promising debut, I will be awaiting their next issue and it earns my hearty recommendation.

Their website states their intent: "There has been a movement afoot in recent years to make connections between what we eat, how we live and the planet. Modern Farmer exists for people who want to be a part of that movement—it is for window-herb growers, career farmers, people who have chickens, people who want to have chickens and anyone who wants to know more about how food reaches their plate." Besides being a quarterly magazine, Modern Farmer is also a daily website, events series, and online store.

The magazine runs 136 pages and consists of about 35 articles, columns and reports. I love the diversity of the content, from frozen foods to wild pigs, from smoothies to cocktails. I found the various articles to be well written, informative as well as interesting. They did not come across as preachy or pretentious. The magazine also has a global scope, with articles about the U.S., China, Malawi, South Africa, Italy and more. With the articles, there are plenty of excellent, accompanying photographs of people, animals, items, scenes and much more.

There is a 20+ page center section of the magazine, called The Modern Farmer Handbook, and it is devoted to many more practical issues for farmers. You will learn items such as how to select the best breed of chicken to raise, how to turn your backyard into a four-season farm, and how to build a straw bale house. There is even a section on different type of "poop" used for fertilizer. Immediately following this section is a photo essay, Meet the Modern Farmers, which presents pictures of seven farmers, and some of their families, from around the world and devotes a couple of paragraphs to each one. There is even a farmer and restaurant owner from Massachusetts presented there, Mark Firth of Monterey.

Some of these articles are going to lead me to further research into their topics. I was pleased to see the current surge in organic farms in China and worried about the exploding population of wild pigs, including radioactive pigs wandering across Europe. Another uplifting article was on mangoes in Malawi, and how they have become so popular now for smoothies across the world. And it was cool to end the last page of the magazine devoted to a Durian vendor.

Check out Modern Farmer. You won't be disappointed. You will undoubtedly learn plenty. And you will enjoy it.

Fontodi Winery: Refreshing A Chianti Tradition

Giovanni Manetti, the owner of the Fontodi winery, is a man of conviction, desirous of reconnecting with an old Chianti tradition, and he is surrounded in the Panzano region by many people with similar beliefs. The Panzano region is a model in some respects for other wine regions, a story of cooperation, a story of principles, a story of connecting with nature.

Though Giovanni was dressed as a businessman, it seemed clear he was very much home in the vineyards, even walking through the Chianina cow enclosure with us to give us a closer look at those fine creatures. His passion and good humor were evident and it was a pleasure to spend time with him. Giovanni was also quite excited as Fontodi had just won an Oscar del Vino for Best Winery of the Year 2012, awarded by the Italian Association of Sommeliers.

Giovanni's family was once in the terracotte tile business and Giovanni's father was passionate about wine. In 1968, his father purchased the Fontodi estate, having known the previous owner. The estate is located in what is known as the Conca d'Oro ("Golden Bowl"), because the area's shape resembles an amphitheater. The Manetti family residence is situated in the middle of the estate, and Giovanni loves to walk through the vineyards.

The estate extends over 130 hectares of which 80 are planted with vineyards, and over 95% of those vineyards are planted with Sangiovese. That works well as most of their soil is galestro, considered the best soil for Sangiovese. Besides a little Cabernet Sauvignon, the vineyards also have a little Pinot Noir and Syrah, both planted in 1985, and the winery produces about four to five thousand cases of those wines. In fact, Fontodi may be one of the last vineyards in this region with any Pinot Noir. As for the Syrah, it was planted at the same time as Paolo di Marchi of Isole e Olena planted Syrah in his own vineyard. They did so though separately, without discussing it.

The estate also includes about 25 hectares of olive trees, from which they produce an extra virgin olive oil, a blend of Correggilo and Moraiolo olives. The overall estate has an average altitude of 450 meters, while most of the vineyards have a southern exposure, providing lots of sun during the day and cool nights, perfect growing weather.

As a winery owner, Giovanni believes it is a "moral duty to do our best, to maximize the potential." As such, Giovanni wanted to reinstate a Chianti tradition, to create a closed system Tuscan farm. The estate has possessed vineyards for many years and practiced what many would consider "biodynamic" practices before Steiner's agricultural lectures of 1924 detailed the practices. Fontodi is now a certified organic estate, inspired by a concern for nature and sustainability, seeking a better expression of terroir.

They also perform many biodynamic practices, though they do not use any of the preparations so they will never be certified as biodynamic. The phases of the moon are very important to Giovanni and certain vineyard and cellar practices are guided by those moon phases. For example, they feel that the moon's elliptical orbit changes gravity and thus affects liquids so the descending moon is considered best for removing sediment and bottling. On the other hand, the ascending moon is considered best for replanting vineyards.

Cover crops are grown in the vineyard, with barley situated in every other row of grape vines (as pictured above). The barley, harvested in July, is used to feed their cows and the barley also helps by absorbing excess nitrogen, which leads to smaller grape berries with thicker skin. I have previously discussed the Chianina cows that Giovanni raises on his estate, another element of that closed farm system as well as continuing a practice which had been done by his father.

Giovanni also stated that the winery had not seen an overall increase in expenses because they went organic, as though they needed more labor, they saved money from not needing to purchase products such as pesticides. He admits that organic will not work everywhere, but that those areas where it can be done are quality regions. Giovanni also feels that it is easy to make good wine anywhere if you use chemicals. In the Chianti Classico region, you will find very few biodynamic producers and only a small portion, maybe 20%, of organic producers. But that may be changing.

There are about twenty wineries in the Panzano region and about 80% are now either organic or biodynamic, and even the few holdouts are moving in that direction. Only ten years ago, that was not the case as only 4-5 of those wineries were organic/biodynamic. The Panzano wineries don't really view themselves as competitors, as they generally share a similar philosophy and strategy. That has enabled them to create a region that is almost completely organic, and within five years could be 100% organic. They share convictions and principles, which have enabled them to work together for this greater objective. Other wine regions should look to Panzano as a shining example of cooperation.

To Giovanni, a "bottle of wine is something to enjoy." That is certain a truism, reducing wine to its most essential aspect. For a wine is nothing if it cannot be enjoyed. I would also add that a bottle of wine is something to be shared as well, and not just enjoyed on one's own. About 50% of Fontodi's production is Chianti Classico, which is 100% Sangiovese, and their best export market is currently North America.

We had lunch with Giovanni at the Osteria Le Panzanelle, a more traditional Tuscan restaurant which also uses many seasonal ingredients. During lunch, we tasted through a few Fontodi wines as some of their olive oil, which was fresh, clean, and fruity. The food at this restaurant was quite tasty and we shared a number of appetizers before each having our own entree.

A steak tartare, with tender, red beef, that is simply prepared with a little spice, olive oil and lemon. Why do so many U.S. restaurants add so many other ingredients to their tartare?

For my entree, I chose the Tagliatelle con ragu di agnello (a lamb sauce), and it was superb. Fresh pasta, cooked to a firm al dente, with lots of flavorful and well spiced lamb. It was a plentiful dish and a Chianti Classico was an excellent pairing. A hearty Tuscan meal that is sure to satisfy any hunger.

The 2009 Fontodi Chianti Classico, which is 100% Sangiovese, is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts and spends about 12 months in French oak barrels. It was a bit more modern in style, with sweet red fruits, good acidity, and a bright freshness. An easy-drinking wine for pizza, pasta and burgers.

In comparison, the 2007 Fontodi Chianti Classico Riserva, Vigna del Sorbo, was more traditional in style despite the fact it is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Cabernet Sauvignon. It is fermented in stainless steel with indigenous yeasts  and spends about 24 months in French oak barrels, about 50% new. The grapes were vinified separately and the wine sees no fining. Giovanni stated that his goal was "power and elegance" and he succeeded in that regard. There was a rustic element to the wine, with flavors of cherries, plum, violets, and a mild spice component. I preferred it to the basic Chianti Classico though both were good companions with our lunch.

Fontodi's top wine is their Flaccianello, a Super Tuscan which they started producing back in 1981. The concept behind this wine was to make the best wine they could from 100% Sangiovese. They use only their best grapes, all hand harvested and double sorted. There is a minimum of 20-30 days of maceration and they use only indigenous yeast with very little sulfur dioxide. The wine also spends a minimum of 18 months in new French oak barrels, and usually two years in the bottle. About 50-60,000 bottles are annually produced. Though it would quality now as Chianti Classico, Fontodi still keeps it as an IGT wine. The prominent cross on the label is a design from the church on the estate which has existed there for centuries.

The 2007 Flaccianello is very dark red in color, almost purple, with a muted aroma of spice and black fruit. On the palate, it is dark and brooding, with plenty of ripe fruit flavors, strong spice, a hint of eucalyptus, fine grain tannins, good acidity and a lengthy finish. It may possess a bit more power than elegance but that will likely balance out with a bit of aging. It is an excellent wine though I would prefer it with more maturity.

What a difference with ten more years of aging! The 1997 Flaccianello, which is from one of the vintages of the century, showed the vast potential of this wine. The color has faded some, and there is a bit of brown, and the aroma is more pronounced, with plenty of subtleties. Though it still possesses some power, the finesse  and elegance is dominant. There were alluring and complex flavors of black fruits, minerality, dark spice and earthiness. Silky tannins and a long and lingering finish, this is a wine to slowly savor over dinner, to relish every fine sip.

The 1982 Flaccianello, which was only its second vintage, was an even lighter red color with much more brown, and a bit of a musty aroma. But with a little time in the glass, the mustiness vanished. It was an interesting wine, that was pure elegance with intriguing flavors of earth, black truffle, licorice, and dried fruit. There was almost a smokiness to it as well. I loved how the Flaccianello evolved over time, and it is evidence of the great potential of Sangiovese.

Chianti Classico is usually made more for commercial purposes, but the production of Vin Santo is often more personal. Giovanni stated that, "Vin Santo is at the heart of Chianti Classico" and that it is first made for the family and then the remainder can be sold off commercially. The 2003 Fontodi Vin Santo is a blend of 50% Sangiovese and 50% Malvasia de Chianti, the grapes which have dried out for 5-6 months. It had a minimum of 7 years of aging and has 300 grams of residual sugar and 12.5% alcohol. This wine had a dark amber color and was rich with a nice melange of apricots, dates, orange peel, dried fruit, and mild spicer. It is sweet but with a good acidity that balances much of it. A great choice for a dessert wine.

2009 Yellow+Blue Monastrell: Bring Your Own Straw

It is summer, that time when many of us will take vacations, or just day trips. We might go hiking, lay out on the beach, take a boat ride, go fishing, and more. During such activities, it would be more difficult to bring a glass bottle of wine with you. There is its added weight, the risk of broken glass, worrying about whether you brought a corkscrew, etc. But, as I have mentioned before, there is a better alternative, wine in a Tetra Pak.

In essence, wine in a Tetra Pak is like a grownup juice box, but without a straw (though I think adding a straw would be cool). It is lighter than a glass bottle, better for the environment and there is no need for a corkscrew. Besides the packaging though, it is important that it contains delicious wine.  No matter how environmentally friendly the packaging, if the wine is of poor quality, then it fails. In addition, it would be best if the wine was reasonably priced.

My favorite producer of Tetra Pak wines is Yellow+Blue Wines, which produces only organic wines from several different regions across the world. I first wrote about their wines two years ago, and have also posted individual reviews of their Rosé (a 2009 & 2010 top ten wine under $15) and Sauvignon Blanc.  They produce tasty wines, and a liter Tetra Pak (one-third more wine than a usual 750ml glass bottle) sells for only about $12, making it an excellent value as well. I also recommend these wines year round, and not just for summer activities.   

Yellow+Blue has just released their newest wine, a 2009 Monastrell (about $12/liter) from the Jumilla region of Spain.  Monastrell, also known in other region as Mourvedre or Mataro, is one of my favorite grapes so I was very excited when I learned Yellow+Blue would be producing this wine. They sent me a sample and I recently drank it with a couple burgers, which worked out to be a good pairing.

The Monastrell is made from hand harvested grapes and indigenous yeast, only sees stainless steel and has an alcohol content of 13.8%.  It is nearly opaque, a dark purple in color, and has a nose of plum and blackberry, with hints of spice.  Its taste provides flavors of ripe plum, black raspberry, a little blueberry and plenty of intriguing spice notes. It is a full bodied wine, with well integrated tannins, and a fairly lengthy finish. For the price, you get a tasty wine with character, which is also better than many other similarly priced wines.

This wine would be a good choice for BBQ, burgers, steak, hearty pasta dishes, and more. The Tetra Pak makes it very convenient, and if you are concerned about sustainability, it is also a good environmental selection. Yellow+Blue has another winner on their hands.

Update: Jim over at VineGeek also posted a positive review of this wine so check it out.

WBW #72: Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo

(Yes, April 6 was Wine Blogging Wednesday #72, Helping Japan, so my post is a bit late but I was out of the country for two weeks.)

On Friday, March 11, a massive earthquake, one of the largest in recorded history, struck northern Japan, triggering a devastating tsunami that has affected millions of people. Over 3,000 people have lost their lives and thousands more have remained unaccounted. The destruction has been so extensive that millions of families have been displaced in search of water, food and shelter far from damaged nuclear reactors. Obviously, this has been a terrible tragedy, pulling at every one of our heartstrings with the innate desire to help, to give something that might make their lives easier.

The people of Japan need humanitarian assistance - they need our assistance - to help overcome the devastation. This is why Gabriella and Ryan Opaz of  Catavino and I came up of the idea of hosting an event to support Japan, using Wine Blogging Wednesday as our perfect vehicle.  Lenn, the originator of WBW, was quick to support the idea, allowing us to pitch Wine Blog Wednesday #72: Helping Japan. For this theme, participants had two options, to either drink and review a Sake or drink and review wine that pairs well with Japanese cuisine.  Of course, I chose to drink a sake.

I received a sample of the Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo, which may be the first 100% Japanese, USDA-certified organic sake.  You might see other organic sakes on the market, from producers such as Kikusui and SakeOne, but they use rice grown in the U.S.  The rice used for this Chikurin is grown entirely in Japan, and by the brewery itself. So why is there so little organic sake coming out of Japan?  

Most of the rice grown in Japan is cultivated on hillside terraces so water filters down through the terraces from the top of the hill.  Thus, if you want to be organic, all of your neighbors above you on the hill must also be organic, or their water would corrupt your efforts.  Plus, it can be difficult if your close neighbors use pesticides, which can easily blow in the wind onto your terraces.  So, being organic is very difficult in Japan, though I think it is likely you will see more organic cultivation in the near future. 

The Chikurin Karoyaka Junmai Ginjo ($50) is made by the Marumoto Brewery, located in Okayama, and exclusively imported by Joto Sake, an importer of artisanal Japanese sake. The Marumoto Brewery, founded in 1867, was originally called Shimizu-ya (which means “spring water store”) because it was built at the site of an important water source. Marumoto launched the Chikurin brand in 1990, the first 100% estate bottled sake.

Marumoto is sometimes known as Nousan Sakagura, the "Farmers’ Brewery," because the farmers who cultivate the rice are also the ones who brew the sake. In addition, the rice is grown at lower yields, thus increasing the amount of starch in the rice while lowering the amount of proteins.  In 2009, they attained USDA organic certification, under the direction of Ecocert SA.

The name of the sake, “Karoyaka,” means “lightness.”  It is produced from 100% Yamada Nishiki rice, and has a rice polishing rate of 50%, which would qualify it as a daiginjo but the brewery has chosen to label it as a ginjo. This is obviously a high quality, and very artisan sake, which has also taken great work in the fields to produce organic rice.  So the price is clearly indicative of these intense efforts and thus, the sake is reasonably priced.        

This is a very interesting sake, with a harmonious and complex melange of flavors, and a clean and light profile.  There are herbal notes accompanied by some cherry flavor and hints of melon. And if you concentrate more, you can detect even more subtle flavors beneath those primary ones.  It is dry, with good acidity, and a pleasant and lingering finish.  It is supposed to pair well with oysters and white fish, and I do think it would work well in those regards.  I paired it with a simple roast chicken and enjoyed how the sake complemented the moist and tender meat.  This is a sake for connoisseurs who will enjoy its complexity, yet it is still very approachable for newcomers too. It gets my highest recommendation.

Please help the people of Japan overcome the effects of this terrible tragedy.  If you can give, please click on the American Red Cross site and donate whatever you can. Thanks very much.

Organic Japanese Sake

Joto Sake, an importer of artisanal Japanese sake, is launching "the first 100% Japanese, USDA-certified organic sake."   Chikurin “Karoyaka” Junmai Ginjo is made by the Marumoto Brewery in Okayama, founded in 1867. The name “Karoyaka” means “lightness.”  Their rice, Yamada Nishiki, is 100% certified organic rice and is also grown by the brewery itself, which is a rarity. Marumoto attained USDA organic certification in 2009, under the direction of Ecocert SA.

Kikusui also produces an organic sake but it is made with organic cooking rice that is grown in the U.S. and shipped to Japan. SakeOne, in Oregon, also produces an organic sake but it too is made with rice grown in the U.S.  The Karoyaka is one of the only organic sakes made from sake rice grown in Japan.

Why so little organic sake?  Well, due to the nature of rice growing in Japan, much is grown on hillside terraces, and water and such from the top will filter down the hills.  So, to be organic, all of the neighbors above you would need to be organic as well, or it would simply defeat your efforts to be organic.  So lots of effort must go into the endeavor of being organic, and it is taking time for rice growers to move in that direction, though you are likely to see more in the future.

I do hope to try this sake in the future, and will then report back on its taste. 

The Conscious Kitchen

Food can be dangerous, to both consumers and the environment. Most people have heard about the horrors of factory farms, the dangers of pesticides, the worries of contaminated meat. But what is the consumer to do, to best avoid these perils and be a more responsible and socially conscious shopper? More practical advice and recommendations are needed and it would be easiest if there was a single source for such valuable information. A new book, The Conscious Kitchen, may fit that need.

The Conscious Kitchen: The New Way to Buy and Cook Food - to Protect the Earth, Improve Your Health, and Eat Deliciously (Clarkson Potter, 2010, $13.99) was written by Alexandra Zissu. It is a trade paperback of 224 pages with eleven chapters. The first seven chapters deal with food and drink, the next two with cooking tools and equipment and the final two chapters with cleaning and waste disposal.

Alexandra Zissu is a writer and her articles have appeared in The New York Times, The Green Guide, Cookie, Details, Bon Appétit, Self, and Health, among other publications. She is also the coauthor of The Complete Organic Pregnancy, and contributes the "Ask an Organic Mom" column to The DailyGreen.com.

Zissu's objective with this book to provide the eco-conscious consumer "...with the education needed to make the best decisions in any venue, from convenience store to supermarket to farmers' market." (p.11) In large part, I believe she is successful, providing a wealth of practical information for consumers without being preachy or absolutist. She is more realistic, understanding not everyone is going to change completely, and that every small change adds up to a greater overall benefit.

You'll learn plenty from this book, such as the definitions and standards for "organic." You will find out the places places to purchase fresh produce, including the balancing act of organic vs local. There are sections on grass-fed beef, raw milk, sustainable seafood, coffee, and even wine. Each section provides the necessary basics as well as providing additional resources you can seek out, from books to websites, to garner more detailed information. There are also several recipes scattered throughout the book, each provided by some other food personality, from Michael Pollan to Emeril Lagasse.

Zissu also covers some areas that many other articles seem to omit, including cooking tools, equipment, cleaning and waster disposal. You will learn about the best materials to cook upon, avoiding plastic in the kitchen, low energy appliances, grills, disinfectants, recycling, and much more. This is certainly a very comprehensive work, albeit some of the information is brief and to the point, yet if you want more information, you are pointed in the right direction.

My primary complaint is that Zissu somewhat glosses over the fact that organic foods generally are more expensive. In a prior post, I reported how Consumer Reports stated that on average, you'll pay 50% extra for organic food, and as much as 100% extra for organic milk and meat. Zissu specifically raises the issue of pricing and saving money four times in the book, though she does not indicate how much more expensive organic foods can be. Her primary advice is that by not buying processed food, you'll have more money to spend on organics. And as for organic meats, she suggests buying less organic meat than you would normally eat. As long as organic foods remain more expensive, it will be more difficult for everyone to buy them.

Overall though, I give this book a high recommendation as it is educational, informative and very practical. It helps cut through much of the confusing debate over being more eco-conscious, and allows the average consumer to understand how they can alter their every day habits. It is fairly comprehensive, covering most everything the average consumer might want to know. Check it out, and learn how to eat and live better, making yourself and your family healthier, as well as helping the environment.

Mare Sustainable Seafood Dinner

Italian cuisine is more than just pasta and pizza. As Italy has an extensive coastline, it also has a rich, culinary tradition of seafood. Concentrating on those traditions is Mare, a North End restaurant with a "coastal Italian menu." Most of their menu items are seafood, and in addition they use many natural and organic ingredients. Plus, they aim to be more ecologically conscious, working towards providing all sustainable seafood.

As a media guest, I recently attended a sustainable seafood wine dinner where Mare partnered with The CleanFish Alliance, a national seafood purveyor, and The Wine Bottega, a local wine store. Executive Chef Greg Jordan prepared a four-course dinner featuring sustainable seafood while Alisha Lumea of Cleanfish discussed the seafood and answered questions about sustainability. Kerri Platt, the owner of the Wine Bottega, chose the wines, which were organic, biodynamic, or natural, as well as spoke about them during the dinner.

The restaurant does not look like the typical North End restaurant, and has a more modern style. Large windows look out onto the street, and this would be especially compelling during the summer. There are a few "televisions" in the corners of the restaurant but they actually only show scenes of Italy so really do not distract from the atmosphere, rather enhancing it.

Jackie Church of the Leather District Gourmet and Donna Goodison of the Boston Herald were a couple of my dining companions. Jackie was her usual self, a fun and interesting conversationalist, while this was the first time I met Donna, who was also very nice and added to the discussions.

Our dinner began with a delicious Amuse Bouche, some American White Sturgeon Caviar atop a polenta bellini. The caviar was not overly fishy, and had a nice salty flavor that went well with the corn-flavored bellini. Our first wine of the evening had been poured prior to this dish, a 2007 Alois Lageder Muller Thurgau from the Alto Adige region. This wine had a pleasant floral aroma with hints of spice, that spice coming out more prominently in the taste. It was a crisp wine, with more tropical fruit flavors, and a good choice for seafood.

The Muller Thurgau also paired well with our first course, Atlantic Halibut crudo with grapefruit pulp and basil. The raw halibut was silky smooth with a strong grapefruit taste and the slight herbality of the basil. If you enjoy sashimi or ceviche, then this dish would impress you. The halibut was farm-raised on Gigha Island, Scotland.

For the second course, we enjoyed Blue Abalone with roasted foie gras, fig gastrique and brioche toast. The abalone was firm, though not rubbery, and the gastrique made a delicious sauce for the abalone. The foie was of course excellent, creamy and decadent. It also tasted good with the fig gastrique. The abalone was farm-raised in Bream Bay, New Zealand. Our wine for this course was the 2007 Antonio Caggiano Fiano di Avellino "Bechar" from Campania. It had a rich body and plenty of acidity, thus perfect for the foie and abalone.

Up next was the Spaghetti alla chitarra, with Laughing Bird Shrimp, wilted arugula, cherry tomatoes and lemon crema. These shrimp are never frozen. The dish was quite good, with a rich, creamy sauce and restrained lemon flavor. Lemon can sometimes overwhelm a dish but the chef did not allow that to happen here. The pasta, which is usually made on premises, was cooked just right, al dente. The shrimp were plump and flavorful, and are farm-raised in Belize.

Kerri actually chose a red wine for this dish, the 2007 Bocchino Langhe Rosso "Tom" from Piemonte. This is a blend of 70% Barbera and 30% Merlot. And it was a hit! The lush and smooth wine was just right for the creamy sauce. It was delicious on its own, with lots of good fruit, though clearly is an excellent food wine as well.

The final course was Faroe Island Sea Trout with a Chianti mustard glaze, pancetta braised swiss chard, and cannellini bean puree. The trout was moist and very flavorful with the glaze, which had a prominent mustard flavor. The final wine was the 2004 Castello di Volpaia Chianti Classico Riserva from Toscana. This wine is 100% Sangiovese, a clone used to make Brunello and referred to as the "King of Sangiovese." A superb Chianti, rich in berry flavors with some restrained spice, plenty of acidity and moderate tannins.

Service was very good and overall the dinner was excellent, with delicious food and wines. This was my first visit to Mare and I certainly will return again. I like the fact they are aiming for sustainable seafood and Chef Jordan is obviously very talented. Plus, it is a more unique North End restaurant, different from the many red sauce places you'll find.

Though I will likely expand on this issue in a later post, I did want to briefly address the sustainability of the seafood. Alisha's position is as an "Evangelist" and she seemed very knowledgeable when questioned concerning the seafood and sustainability. But, she did admit there was some information they considered proprietary and thus there is not full transparency. CleanFish is essentially a marketing organization, promoting their client's products. So, there are some questions about the company.

But, my own brief research on the seafood we ate did not uncover any significant issues with the sources of the seafood. I should note that sustainability is not always a simple issue, especially where seafood is concerned. I fully understand the difficulties the average consumer encounters when buying seafood, and I hope to expand on the matter in the near future.

Mare
135 Richmond Street
Boston, MA
Phone: 617-723-MARE

2009 Yellow + Blue Sauvignon Blanc

One of my Top Wines of 2009 Under $15, was the 2008 Yellow+Blue Rosé, an organic wine from Spain, packaged in a Tetra Pak. Previously, Yellow+Blue Wines only had a Malbec, Rosé, and Torrontes but have recently added a Sauvignon Blanc. It is so new, that it has not yet even been added to their website.

I was sent a sample of their new 2009 Yellow + Blue Sauvignon Blanc, which is from the Central Valley of Chile. The wine is made of 100% Sauvignon Blanc, is certified organic and has an alcohol content of only 12.7%. The grapes are hand harvested and the wine is fermented in stainless steel using indigenous yeast.

This wine is like biting into a fresh, juicy grapefruit. It has a nice golden color, with hints of green, and the nose gives a prominent grapefruit smell. It is a crisp, bright wine with plenty of grapefruit flavor. There are a few subtle hints of other fruits beneath the grapefruit, but it is difficult to determine exactly what they were. There are no grassy notes, so it is not like a typical New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc but instead is more French in style.

I paired this wine with some homemade salt cod cakes, and it was a nice pairing. This is a wine, with bright acidity, that goes well with seafood. It would also make a good summer wine. I much prefer this style of Sauvigon Blanc, rather than those of New Zealand. But, you better enjoy grapefruit, which is such a prominent flavor, if you are going to drink this wine. My favorite remains their Rosé, but this makes for a pleasant change of pace.

Douro & Port Tasting

Excellent and delicious value wines are coming out of Portugal, and I am a big fan, especially of their wines made from indigenous grapes. I also enjoy Ports, but usually only the older Ports, generally only those aged for ten years or more. There are some exceptions, but I do find some of the younger Ports to be too bitter and harsh for my tastes.

At the end of September, I attended a major Portuguese wine tasting hosted by the Instituto dos Vinhos do Douro e Porto (IVDP) and Boston University 's Elizabeth Bishop Wine Resource Center. The tasting included still wines from the Douro region as well as numerous Ports. I found plenty of very good wines and will highlight some of them.

But what I most want to promote is that you should be trying Portuguese wines. Though they are becoming more popular, it seems a slow movement and they still have a ways to go. Wines from Portugal can offer some great bargains as well as some exciting and intriguing flavors. Give their wines a chance and I am sure you will find some new favorites.

Ramos Pinto:

2007 Duas Quinta (about $15): A blend of 40% Tinta Roriz, 40% Touriga Franca, and 20%Touriga Nacional. A compelling aroma and a delicious, complex taste of plum, black cherry, and spice notes. Strong tannins and a lengthy finish. Good value wine though probably best with food.

2006 Duas Quinta Reserve: A blend of 80% Touriga Nacional, 15% Touriga Franca, and 5%Tinta Barroca (5%). Similar to the above wine except that the flavors were more intense and the finish was lengthier.

Quinta Do Bom Retiro 20-Year Old Tawny & 30-Year Old Tawny: Both superb Ports, incredibly smooth with a complex melange of flavors including caramel, nuts, butterscotch, and honey notes. Both are to be slowly savored, each sip bringing exquisite pleasure.

Casa Agrícola Roboredo Madeira (CARM):

2008 Carm Rose: A blend of Touriga Nacional, Tinta Roriz and Touriga Franca. Light pink color, this dry Rose is very Old World in style with bright flavors of strawberry and watermelon. A pleasant wine, perfect for a summer day or with light foods.

2008 Carm White: A blend of indigenous Portuguese white grapes which sees no oak. A crisp and zesty white wine with flavors of citrus, spice and herbal notes. A very good food wine, though it can be enjoyed on its own too.

Quinta De Ventozelo:

20-Year-Old Tawny Port: An excellent Port, with smooth flavors of dried berries, figs, caramel, and almonds. Lengthy and satisfying finish. My preferred style of Port.

Real Companhia Velha:

2008 Evel White: A blend of Malvazia Fina, Donzelinho, Gouveio and Moscatel. An alluring aroma of green apple and pears, those fruits also shining brightly in the taste. A crisp, vibrant wine that excited my senses. A touch of exoticness to its flavor elevates this above ordinary white wines. At under $15, this wine is also a very good value.

C.N. Kopke & Ca. Lda.:

2006 Kopke Reserva Tinto: A blend of Touriga Nacional and Tinto Roriz. It possesses that intriguing aroma of many other Portuguese wines made from indigenous grapes. On the palate, there are lush dark berry flavors, restrained spice notes, mild tannins, and a lengthy finish. A wine I would enjoy with or without food.

Barros:
Established in 1913, this winery produces a variety of Ports, especially vintage Tawnies & Colheita Ports, which are matured in cask for at least seven years. Their Colheitas are some of my favorite Ports and you can check out my prior review of a few of them. I retasted them this time and my thoughts were the same. They were just as appealing now as they were before. If you want to get started in Ports, I strongly recommend you begin with the Barros portfolio.

Fonseca Porto:

Fonseca Porto Terra Bella (around $23): This is the first, and maybe only, organic Port. It is an organic reserve porto, what once was known as a ruby port. Fonseca first produced this organic port in 2006, and it has been certified by USDA National Organic Program and the European Ecocert.

They have an organic vineyard at Quinta do Panascal. What you might not think about though is that an organic port also requires an organic fortifying spirit, brandy. Until 1991, these spirits had to come from Portugal but the rules were relaxed so that producers could source the spirits from other countries too. This enabled Fonseca to locate an organic brandy producer in Spain.

It had a rich, dark red color and an aroma of cherry, raspberry and some herbal notes. On the palate, the lush fruit stood out, more plum and black cherry with a touch of floral and even chocolate. There was also an underlying earthiness which accentuated the port. It was not bitter at all, a very smooth and compelling port. It is full-bodied with a moderately-long and satisfying finish. An excellent choice which I highly recommend.

Bottles & Alice Feiring

Despite these tough economic times, it seems some bold individuals are still opening new restaurants and wine shops. I have recently posted about a few of the new wine stores that have recently opened, or will be opening in the near future, and I am pleased to report on another one.

Bottles, a new wine store in the North End, opened this past July. I stopped by recently to check out the store when they were hosting an appearance (and wine tasting) by the famed wine writer Alice Feiring. I was pleased with what I found at the store and I shall return again.

The manager is Kevin Cassidy, a very personable and passionate wine lover. Their other employees, "consultants," include Kelly Coggins (who used to work at Rialto), Mike, Seth, and Alison. Most, if not all of the employees, once worked at the Wine Bottega in the North End. I have met Kelly before and he too is a very knowledgeable and passionate wine lover. They certainly have a talented and knowledgeable staff.

It was a real pleasure to meet and chat with Alice Feiring. She was extremely personable, down to earth, and genuine. In her writings, she sometimes can come off seemingly as abrasive, but I found none of that in person with her. She generously spent time chatting with many of the people who showed up for the tasting. She is an interesting conversationalist and we discussed several different wine topics. If you get a chance to meet Alice, you definitely should take the opportunity.

The shop is small yet the rectangular space is used well to present the wines and beers without seeming overcrowded. The left wall is covered by wine racks containing about 80 wines. Overall, the store may contain 120 or more different wines, as well as 50-60 assorted beers.

The right wall, where the cashier counter is located, has a smaller wine rack, where some of the more expensive wines are displayed, as well as a few books and even some olive oil. They have a single Sake, a Nigori, though may carry more in the future.

In the middle of the store is a short counter, also containing more wine selections. There still is adequate space around that center counter to walk around.

At the rear of the store is their cooler unit, where most of their beers are kept, as well as some wines. They will soon allow you to make your own six packs of beer, picking and choosing individual bottles you wish to drink. For a beer lover, that sounds like a very cool benefit, a way to sample beers you know little about, or which intrigue you.

As for their wine selection, they carry primarily small producers, many European as well as many which are organic or biodynamic. I was familiar with numerous wines they carry, and they are generally excellent wines, one that most wine lovers would enjoy. For example, at their tasting, they had compelling wines such as the 2007 Catherine & Dominique Derain Bourgogne Aligote, 2007 Occhipinti Il Frappato and 1989 Lopez de Heredia Vina Tondonia Blanco. Prices were average for the wines they carry, and they stock a full range of price points.

The store will hold free wine tastings every Thursday night from 5pm-8pm, as well as special events at other times. With an excellent selection of wines and a passionate and knowledgeable staff, this is welcome addition for wine lovers. Please stop by and check out this new store. I will be back and maybe I will see some of my readers there.

Bottles

372 Commercial Street

Boston, MA

Phone: 617-391-0021