Mellasat Vineyards: A White Pinotage

Pinotage can be a polarizing grape, one that you either love or hate. However, I believe that much of the criticism is due to some poor examples from the past, and not a proper tasting of the wines that now are being produced in South Africa. I've long been a fan of Pinotage and was intrigued recently when perusing the wine shelves at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose (where I work part-time) and noticed a White Pinotage.

White Pinotage? Red grapes can be used to make white wine as the color of wine is usually derived from the skins. If you press the red grapes quickly, and keep the juice away from the skins, you can obtain a "white" wine. That is a simple explanation for what can be a more complex process, but the important fact is to know that it is possible.

The Mellasat Vineyards are located at the foot of the Klein Drakenstein Mountains in the Paarl region of South Africa. Some of the vineyards were once part of the Dekkersvlei farm, which was established in 1693. In 1996, Stephen Richardson, an Englishman with a deep passion for wine, purchased the property  He replaced some of the pre-existing Chenin Blanc vines with Pinotage, and the entire vineyard is only around eight hectares.

In 2007, Richardson chose to create the first barrel-fermented White Pinotage. No other winery appears to make a still White Pinotage bottling, though under South African wine law, it cannot be labeled as a "white wine" because it is made from red grapes. Instead, it must be labeled as "blanc de noirs." The grapes are "whole bunched pressed without de-stemming or crushing in a pneumatic “bag” press to minimise colour retention." They are fermented in 300 liter Romanian oak barrels (19% new). The wine spends about 11 months in the barrel with regular stirring of the lees.

The 2012  Mellasat White Mellasat ($27) won't remind you of Pinotage and  in a blind taste test, you would never guess the correct grape. With an alcohol content of 13.5%, I found it to be complex, intriguing and delicious. I have seen several sources say that it is reminiscent of Chardonnay, and I can see some of the reasons for such a belief, but I also think there are differences too which might get you thinking of a few other white grapes, from Melon de Bourgogne to Viognier.

There is a certain richness to the wine, likely due to the time on the lees, but there is plenty of crisp acidity to balance this richness. That may bring to mind a fine Muscadet. There is an interesting melange of flavors, including tropical fruits and bright citrus, as well as a backbone of minerality. Well balanced and with a lengthy, satisfying finish, I loved this wine and feel the quality of the wine is worth the price. Even if you think you dislike Pinotage, you are going to enjoy this wine. It is unique and interesting, delicious and compelling.

Seek out this South African treasure.

Rant: The Day After, Tired & Beat

What group of people is the most tired and beat today, making Monday an even tougher ordeal than usual?

Yesterday was Mother's Day, a holiday where we honor one of the most important person in our lives. It was a day to treat our mothers, allowing them to relax and take a well deserved rest. We may have given our mothers gifts, such as flowers, chocolates, or wine. We may have taken our mothers out to brunch, lunch or dinner. In fact, some sources claim that Mother's Day is the biggest restaurant day of the year.

However, we may not think about all of the restaurant workers who must work on this very busy holiday, workers who sacrifice their own time with their mothers so that they can serve you and your mothers. From servers to cooks, dish washers to busers, they work hard on this holiday, to try to make everything right. And I'm positive they also have to deal with some difficult customers, including even a few who won't be satisfied no matter what happens. As you enjoyed your holiday meal, you may have given little attention to all of the staff who tried their best to please you.

I'm sure all of those restaurant workers were exhausted by the end of yesterday, and today, they are recuperating, resting up after such an arduous shift. They are probably the most tired group of people today, and some may even have to work today too. Yet who thinks about these restaurant workers today? All of their hard work from yesterday has been largely forgotten.

As Mother's Day is the biggest restaurant day of the year, a day of great importance, then maybe the Monday after should be a day, even unofficially, to recognize the hard work of all restaurant workers. We chose to take our mothers out for dinner rather than try to cook it at home. We relied on all of those restaurant workers to impress our mothers, to make our mothers have a great day. So they deserve recognition for their efforts.

Today, take some time to recognize these people. Give thanks to them. Spread the word about the restaurants you visited. Don't let them remain invisible after everything they did for you and your mother.            

Friday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a special Friday edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.. **********************************************************
1) Mark your calendars for Sunday, June 7, from 3:30PM – 5:00PM as Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro hosts “Sparkle VIII,” an event billed as “…an afternoon of fashion, food & fun.” The event will bring together people from around Greater Boston to sip cocktails, enjoy light fare and finger foods, and view the latest styles during an afternoon charity fashion show to benefit Rosie’s Place, a sanctuary for poor and homeless women.

This year’s special guest hosts will be Erica Corsano, lifestyle editor and social columnist at The Boston Herald, and Jenny Johnson, co-host of NESN’s “Dining Playbook.” Modeling the latest summer fashions will be editors, producers, writers and on-air talent from some of Boston’s most prominent media outlets. Graciously donating their time to this year’s event will be: Nelly Carreño, meteorologist for NECN, Sean Donovan, social media maven aka “BostonMo,” Cheryl Fenton, freelance lifestyle magazine writer and Digital Editor for Boston magazine's Weddings, Jacqueline Houton, editor of The Improper Bostonian, J.C. Monahan, co-anchor of WCVB-TV's “NewsCenter 5 at 5:00” and "Chronicle," Lisa Pierpont, editor of Boston Common magazine, Bree Sison of WBZ “This Morning,” Janet Wu, anchor/reporter for WHDH Channel 7.

The all-inclusive $30 admission price is not only a front row seat to the afternoon fashion show, set in communal seating to encourage gab and gossip, but also includes: gourmet hors d'oeuvres, (1) cocktail provided by Brockman’s Gin (full cash bar also available), an exclusive “Sparkle VIII” discount giving attendees 15%-20% off at all participating vendors, and a complimentary gift bag filled with goodies galore. A percentage of proceeds from the event will go to Rosie’s Place.

Tickets are required and can be purchased by calling Beacon Hill Hotel & Bistro at 617-723-7575 or visiting sparkle8.eventbrite.com. Tickets are non-refundable. This is a 21+ event.

2) Share Our Strength’s Taste of the Nation takes place on Tuesday, June 9, and has a stellar lineup of Chefs and restaurants that will be participating. More than 70 restaurants will join SOS Founder Billy Shore to participate in one of the year’s hottest culinary events. The annual tasting event will feature the city’s top chefs, sommeliers and mixologists united for a cause: making sure all children in this country get the healthy food they need, every day.

Some of This Year’s Participating Restaurants Include:
- Lincoln Tavern
- Belly Wine Bar
- Craigie on Main
- Abby Lane
- Tremont 647
- Bistro du Midi
- Bergamot
- Alden and Harlow
- Sweet Cheeks Q
- Ribelle
- Loyal Nine
- TRADE
- Tico
- West Bridge
- Davio’s
- Grill 23
- Harvest
- 80 Thoreau
- Fairstead Kitchen

Proceeds from the event benefit No Kid Hungry’s work to end childhood hunger in America. Led by a distinguished Chef Council, Boston’s culinary tastemakers will provide guests with scrumptious bite-size fare, craft cocktails, and desserts of all kinds. One in five children in this country struggles with hunger, including more than 270,000 kids in MA. No Kid Hungry is ending childhood hunger in this nation by ensuring that kids start the day with a nutritious breakfast and families learn the skills they need to shop and cook on a budget.

WHEN: Tuesday, June 9, 7pm-9:30pm
VIP Admission starts at 6pm
COST: Tickets are $95 for General Admission and $150 for VIP admission. Tickets can be purchased by logging onto www.nokidhungry.org/boston.

3) On Friday, May 1, Shake Shack® kicked off its 4th Annual Great American Shake Sale benefiting No Kid Hungry®. The Great American Shake Sale is a company-wide cause marketing initiative taking place May 1-31 at all U.S. Shake Shacks (excluding stadiums and airports). The goal is to raise awareness and funds for No Kid Hungry in its effort to end childhood hunger in America, where 1 in 5 children do not have consistent access to adequate food.

Throughout May, Shake Shack guests who donate $2 or more to No Kid Hungry will receive a card for a complimentary hand-spun shake—valued at $5—redeemable on their next visit. One hundred percent of donations will benefit No Kid Hungry.

Thanks to the incredible support of its guests in 2014, Shake Shack surpassed its goal to raise $300,000 by more than $38,000. This year, Shake Shack’s new goal is to raise $350,000. If reached, Shake Shack will achieve the significant milestone of donating a total of $1 million to No Kid Hungry in the four years since the launch of the Great American Shake Sale.

Donations to No Kid Hungry help connect children to the healthy food they need through essential nutrition programs like school breakfast, summer meals and classes that educate low-income families on how to cook healthy, affordable foods. Just $2 can provide kids with 20 meals. If Shake Shack reaches its goal to raise $350,000 this year, that’s 3.5 million additional meals for hungry children in America.

4) Now in its 18th year, Chefs in Shorts brings together a group of the area’s top culinary talents who fire up the grills and create their favorite dishes during this expansive outdoor, summer-in-the-city barbeque hosted at the Seaport World Trade Center. Join some of Boston’s best chefs for an evening of grill-offs, desserts, beer, wine and fun to benefit Future Chefs, a local nonprofit focused on first careers in the culinary arts.

WHEN: Friday, June 19, from 7pm-9:30pm
COST: $80 per person (includes admission with complimentary beer, wine and culinary tastings)
TICKETS: Tickets now available online at: https://chefsinshorts.eventbrite.com.
MORE INFO: This event is 21+ and requires proper identification.
BENEFICIARY: Future Chefs’ mission is to prepare urban youth in Greater Boston for quality early employment and post-secondary education opportunities in the culinary field and to support them in developing a broad base of transferable skills as they transition into the working world.

5) Leave the cooking to Prezza this Mother’s Day, Sunday, May 10, from 4pm-9pm, and treat her to an escape in Italy – sans passport. In addition to serving the regular menu focused on Old World-style cuisine, Owner & Chef Anthony Caturano will be dishing out seven specials at his famed North End eatery.

To start, there are Fried Clams (fennel and caper remoulade sauce - $16), Eggplant Parmigiano (basil, roasted tomato and mozzarella - $14) and Buffalo Mozzarella (tomato, basil and aged balsamic - $16). For the pasta course, Chef Caturano will serve up Gnocchi (San Marzano tomatoes and basil - $18) and Linguine (clams, ramps and butter - $18). There also will be two special entrees, Veal Saltimbocca (crispy prosciutto, sage, roasted potatoes and broccoli rabe - $26) and Chicken Parmigiano (tagliatelle and San Marzano tomatoes - $26).

For reservations, please call 617-227-1577

Pearson Farm: Georgia Pecans

The Pecan is the only tree nut that is native to the U.S., with Georgia leading the country in pecan production, and has for over one hundred years. The U.S. produces more than 80% of the world's pecans and 14 states grow pecans, though most are from Georgia, New Mexico and Texas. In 2012, the U.S. produced about 303 million pounds of pecans, with about 100 million from Georgia, 65 million from New Mexico and 55 million from Texas. There are over 500 varieties of pecan, many named for Native American peoples, though only 3 are actually commonly available.

Pecans are also nutritious, and "...are linked to lowering cholesterol, improving heart health, lowering cancer risk and managing weight. Pecans specifically contain 3 grams dietary fiber and over 19 vitamins and minerals including but not limited to vitamin A, vitamin E, calcium, potassium and zinc. Pecans are also a good source of oleic acid, vitamin B1, thiamin, magnesium and protein, all this at only 196 calories per one once serving (about a handful)." You can find more specifics on the studies supporting these health benefits here.

One of my favorite pies is pecan pie, though I enjoy pecans in a number of other dishes as well, from pecan-crusted fish to bourbon bread pudding with pecans. I recently received a media sample of Elliot Halves Pecans from Pearson Farm, located in Fort Valley, Georgia, and knew that I needed to enjoy them, at the very least, in a pecan pie.

The Pearson Farm was established back in 1885, when Moses Winlock “Lockie” Pearson and his wife, Cornelia Emory “Emma” planted the first peach trees and soon after started growing pecans too. Today, the family continues growing peaches and pecans. Their pecans are generally harvested from October to December, though with proper storage you can keep your pecans year-round. You can refrigerate your pecans for 9-10 months, though if you freeze them, they can last up to two years.

Pearson Farm sells three varieties of pecans, both in-shell and shelled. Their varieties include Mammoth Halves, Schley (or Papershell Pecans), and Elliot Pecans. You can get shelled pecans as halves or chopped. I received one pound of Elliot Halves ($11), and this variety is small but plump, round and delicious. They can be used in cooking or snacking on their own. This variety was first discovered Florida in the 1920s, and they are more rare, especially as their harvests can be sporadic.

I enjoyed some of the pecans on their own, and they provided a fine, nutty taste with a firm texture. They seemed fresher than some of the pecans I've commonly bought at the local store, and their price is very reasonable considering the quality of the pecans. Marilyn, my sister-in-law, makes one of my favorite Pecan Pies, which she usually makes for either Thanksgiving or Christmas (or both holidays if I'm lucky). I persuaded her to make one for Easter, using the Elliot pecans and it came out excellent. The pecans had a prominent savory flavor, and seemed to enhance the pie even more than usual. During the week after Easter, I savored a few more pieces of the pecan pie, heating it up and adding a little vanilla ice cream.

You can buy the usual commercial pecans at your local supermarket, or you can order some higher quality pecans from Pearson Farm. I think you would enjoy the Pearson pecans much better.

Rant: Hating Beer & Other Drinks

I don't hide the fact that I generally dislike beer, primarily because I don't like the taste of hops. It would be simple for me to write off beer, to never again sample or taste it. I have seen other people do exactly that with other beverages. There are people who state they dislike Chardonnay or Champagne, and won't ever drink it. They refuse to even take a sip, convinced they will hate it, sure of their position. I refuse though to take such a position.

Why? Because I understand the simple fact that beverages are diverse, that they come in a multitude of flavors and styles, types and tastes. I know that even if I dislike 99% of the beers on the market, that still leaves 1% which I may enjoy. I refuse to stop sampling and tasting beers even though I will dislike most of them. For a time, I disliked most Cabernet Franc wines I tasted, as I disliked the green/vegetal taste I found in those wines. However, I persevered, continuing to seek out Cabernet Franc wines and eventually found a good number of them that I did enjoy.

While I was working this weekend at the Beacon Hill Wine & Gourmet in Melrose, I noticed a new beer that we were carrying, the Not Your Father's Root Beer, produced by the Small Town Brewery in Illinois. I like root beer so this intrigued me, an Ale with spices that supposedly made it taste like root beer. I decided to take a chance on it, and bought a 6-pack, despite not knowing whether I would like it or not.

Small Town Brewery seems to make three version of this product, varying by their alcohol content, and including 5.9%, 10.7%, and 19.5%. The latter two versions are limited editions and primarily available in Illinois. It is apparently made with ingredients such as vanilla bean and honey from Switzerland, though the brewery website doesn't discuss the ingredients.

I cracked open a bottle that evening and was impressed with its taste, which definitely reminded me of an old style root beer. It was creamy and sweet, with tastes of vanilla, caramel and spices like sassafras. There is a hint of alcohol in the taste, but it doesn't taste like a normal beer. It seems more like a fine soda, with a bit of a kick to it. I drank a few of these that night, and each one went down easily. Its level of sweetness would stop you from drinking too many of these at one time, but on a hot summer day, a couple cold bottles would satisfy. I'm betting this beer will end up on my end of the year Favorite lists.

The point of this story is to illustrate that no one should write off an entire category of drinks. Their diversity means you are likely to find something you will enjoy. By denying an entire category, you shut yourself off to a myriad of possibilities, and life is too short to do that. Be open to sampling everything you can, taking a chance on something new and different. Experience all that life has to offer and I'm sure your life will be richer for it.