Rant: Food Truck, No Cash?

We don't accept your cash. What???

This past weekend, I attended a convention at the Westin Waterfront and several food trucks showed up for the attendees. On Sunday, the two food trucks at the hotel included the Baja Taco Truck and Clover.  I wanted to order something at Clover however I realized that they didn't accept cash! You can only use credit or debit cards, even if only buying a drink that costs under $2. I chose not to buy anything from the truck as I only wanted to use cash.

Though I've visited a couple of he Clover restaurants during the past year,  this was the first time I had visited their food truck in the last year. I was unaware that they had changed their policy in May 2015 so that their food truck no longer accepted cash, though their brick & mortar stores still accept cash. In a blog post, they stated their business was over 80% credit and then listed other reasons they believed justified the change.

First, they said there were security issues with a food truck having a bunch of cash. However, as they accept cash at their brick & mortars, the chance of robbery still exists. Second, they state it takes a lot of work, basically an hour to count and deposit the cash. However, again as they accept cash at their brick & mortars, their managers still have to spend that extra time counting and depositing their cash. Third, they allege a fear of employee theft, miscounts, or errors, which still is a problem for them as they still the cash at their brick & mortars. With credit cards, there is also still a potential problem of theft of credit card numbers so they aren't preventing all theft issues. Finally, they state running out of change can be a hassle. If so many people are using credit cards, then why is this such an issue? If you start the day with a proper amount of change, it should't be an issue.

I see a very inconsistent policy here, where the complaints about cash at food trucks can be applied just as well to their brick & mortars. If those concerns were so important, then their policy should be applied across the board, but it isn't. Why aren't there similar concerns for the employees who work at the brick & mortars?  Why accept cash at all? It doesn't make sense to me.

The no-cash policy eliminates some potential customers, anyone who doesn't own a credit or debit card. This could be seen as class discrimination, making it impossible for some of the lowest economic classes  to avail themselves of the Clover food truck. For example, a homeless person who had a handful of cash couldn't buy anything at their food truck. According to a 2014 Gallup Poll,  about 29% of Americans do not have a credit card, a number that has been rising over the years.  

That concern was raised in the comments on the Clover blog post and the founder, Ayr Muir, stated "I never thought of it that way. I hope we’re not excluding anybody with this policy." There was no apparent follow-up and I didn't see any indications that Clover was trying to address this issue. For a community business to exclude certain members of that community, about 29% of that community, seems very wrong.  

From the blog post comments, it was also clear that some people objected to the policy and wouldn't patronize the Clover food truck any more. This might only constitute a small group, but it is lost revenue for Clover. And it has alienated some of those people who won't now recommend others to Clover. As the policy is still around, it is apparent Clover doesn't see a significant problem by turning away those customers as well as the 29% of Americans who lack credit cards.

They lost my business this weekend. It wasn't a big loss, definitely less than $10, but I might not ever go to a Clover truck again. And I won't be telling my friends to go there either.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Chef/Owner Will Gilson is excited to announce the launch of a new bar menu at Puritan & Company. Kicking off the new year in a tasty way, the bar menu now offers a variety of delicious bites ranging from rosemary-maple bar nuts to corned beef ribs.

Available to bar patrons Sunday through Thursday from 5:30 p.m. to 11 p.m. and Friday through Saturday from 5:30 p.m. to 12 a.m., the menu includes:

Dry-Aged Beef Patty Melt with rye, Swiss cheese, American cheese, special sauce ($18)
Buffalo Skate Wings with shaved celery, Calabrian chili, blue cheese ($12)
Potato Croquettes with Parmesan, black pepper, onion dip ($8)
Fried Oysters with Johnnycake, maple aioli, lemon, bonito ($15)
Corned Beef Ribs with boiled dinner giardiniera, mustard-cider glaze ($12)
Rosemary-Maple Bar Nuts ($5)
Scallop-Linguisa Dumplings with piri-piri, garlic, paprika ($13)
Smoked Bluefish Melt with brioche cheddar, celery, red onion ($14)

The Scallop-Linguisa Dumplings sound especially interesting to me & I'll have to stop by to check them out.

2) On Sunday, January 31 from 2-4 p.m., Chef Tony Maws invites guests to The Kirkland Tap & Trotter to see and taste who can stake claim to the title of Boston’s Best French Fries! The Fry-Off is the second event in “Food Fights 3”—a series of charitable culinary competitions hosted by No Kid Hungry, leading up to the local Taste of the Nation this summer. All proceeds from Food Fights 3 and Taste of the Nation will be donated to the non-profit to help end childhood hunger in America.

Four of Boston’s culinary masters will throw-down the fry gauntlet, serving their best versions of French fries and dipping sauces for a cheering crowd. Attendees have the opportunity to sample all of the fries and crown a “People’s Choice” favorite, and a panel of three esteemed judges will select the overall winner. Tickets are $30/person (event is 21+) and include tastings of each chefs’ fries and accompaniments, bites from the Kirkland kitchen, and two complimentary drinks. The competitors are:

Tony Maws (Craigie on Main | The Kirkland Tap & Trotter)
Cassie Piuma (Sarma)
Andy Husbands (Tremont 647 | Sister Sorel | The Smoke Shop)
Lydia Shire (Scampo)

“High on my list of favorite things are cooking, friendly competition, and supporting worthwhile causes—and this event lets me do all three,” says Tony. “I’m honored to work with No Kid Hungry whenever I can, and am pumped that some of my favorite local chefs will be joining! Plus, who doesn’t love fries?”

TICKETS: Tickets can be purchased online at http://ce.strength.org/events/boston-food-fights
*Event is 21+

3) On January 27, at 6:30pm, Osteria Nino will host its first pairings dinner of 2016, celebrating the flavors of Piedmont in the northwestern corner of Italy. Known for its Barolos and Barbarescos made from the Nebbiolo grape, wines from Piedmont are often characterized as velvety as the tannins are polished and integrated more and more into the wine.

Osteria Nino’s executive chef Walace Benica and director of wine Sam Alberts will team up to host this evening of perfect pairings, showcasing the best tastes from Piedmont’s vine and rich cooking style heralded as Italy’s most culinary progressive region. The menu is designed around expertly-sourced local ingredients that will transport guests back to the Old Country, honoring the timeless techniques and flavors of “cucina italiana,” while highlighting Osteria Nino’s all-Italian wine program.

The four course menu will be presented as follows:

ANTIPASTO
Bagna Cauda (seasonal vegetables with anchovy & garlic dipping sauce)
Guidobono Nebbiolo 2014
PRIMO
Gnocchi al Castelmagno e Noci (housemade gnocchi with Castelmagno cheese & walnuts)
Cantina del Pino Barbaresco 2010
SECONDO
Bollito di Manzo (braised short rib with carrots, cabbage & salsa verde)
Barolo Oddero 2010
DOLCE
Sorta Nocciola (hazelnut cream tart)
Cocchi Barolo Chinato

COST: $85 per person (does not include tax or gratuity)
Reservations are required via EventBrite at: piemonteseatnino.eventbrite.com. This event is reserved for ages 21+.

4) Following the October book release of Lidia Bastianich's Mastering the Art of Italian Cuisine: Everything You Need to Know to be a Great Italian Cook, join the Emmy-winning host of Public Television’s Lidia's Kitchen and Lidia’s Italy, Lidia Bastianich, January 26 at 7:30PM at the Citi Shubert Theatre for an evening of conversation and storytelling celebrating our love of Italian food.

The best-selling author is a beloved ambassador for Italian culinary traditions throughout the world. Her multiple culinary endeavors have married her two passions in life – her family and food. Her extensive experience as a chef/restaurateur includes acclaimed New York City restaurants ‐ Felidia, Becco, Esca and Del Posto, as well as Lidia’s in Pittsburgh and Kansas City. Lidia and her team opened Eataly, the largest artisanal Italian food and wine marketplace in New York City, Chicago, and Sao Paolo and LIDIA's pasta and sauce can be found in supermarkets nationwide.

Steve DiFillippo, Chef/Owner, Restaurateur of Davio’s Northern Italian Steakhouse and author of “It’s All About the Guest” will moderate the evening. DiFillippo has been in the restaurant industry for 30 years, DiFillippo was inducted into the Massachusetts Restaurant Hall of Fame in 2008 and in 2014 he was awarded Restaurateur of the Year.

Tickets start at $45 and are available at the Box Office, CitiCenter.org, or by calling 866-348-9738. A limited number of VIP tickets that include a signed copy of her new book and the best seats in the house are available.

5) Executive Chef David Verdo of Outlook Kitchen & Bar at The Envoy Hotel and Chef/Owner Rachel Klein of RFK Kitchen invite guests to brave the cold and celebrate for a cause.

On Tuesday, February 2, from 6:30pm-9pm, Chefs David Verdo and Rachel Klein are teaming up to host “Baby it’s Cold Outside” at The Envoy Hotel. Proceeds from this pop-up event will go directly to the New England Center and Home for Veterans, a downtown Boston facility dedicated to ending homelessness for our Nation’s veterans. Guests are invited to indulge on bites from Chefs Verdo and Klein while listening to tunes mixed by a local DJ and getting a sneak peek at Chef/Owner Rachel Klein’s soon-to-be open restaurant, RFK Kitchen in Needham. Refreshing spirits and wines by the glass will also be available from top sponsors Perrier-Jouët, United, Papa Pilar Rum, and Tito’s.

Tickets are $48.47 including tax & gratuity and can be purchased via Eventbrite.

TasteCamp 2016: Vermont Bound!

Vermont, the Green Mountain State, is the leading producer of maple syrup in the country. It is also well known for its dairy farms, cheese and Ben & Jerry's Ice Cream. In the winter, it is well known for its fabulous ski trails while in the fall, leaf peeping is extremely popular. However, its alcohol industry is much less known, except maybe for the crazily popular and hard to find Heady Topper beer. It is well past time that the rest of Vermont's alcohol industry becomes better known, from its wines to its spirits.

Since 2009, I've written a number of articles and reviews of Vermont wine, cider and spirits and this year will see plenty of additional coverage. In prior year's, I've attended the Vermont Cheesemakers Festival which not only offered an abundance of cheese but also presented some of the wines, ciders, beers and spirits of Vermont, from Boyden Valley Winery to Whistle Pig Distillery. Over the years, I've seen a clear improvement and evolution of their wines and spirits. There is less use of grapes from outside Vermont and the quality continues to improve.

As I mentioned last week, in the Spring I'll be spending a weekend exploring the wines, ciders, beers, Sake and spirits of Vermont, gaining a better understanding of the current status of their drinks industry. From June 3-5, I'll be attending TasteCamp 2016, which will be held this year in scenic Vermont. Approximately forty bloggers, writers and their guests will attend TasteCamp, tasting our way through Vermont. I've attended all but one of the previous TasteCamps (having missed one only because I was at the Kentucky Derby) and I expect the Vermont weekend to be as enjoyable as all the rest.

As in previous TasteCamps, we will meet a variety of producers, visit vineyards, taste dozens of wines, beers, ciders and spirits, dine on local foods and hold a fun BYOB dinner. With its limited size, this is a more intimate event, allowing you to get to know everyone in the group, reconnecting with old friends and meeting new ones too. You also get immersed in the region, gaining a better understanding of its drinks industry. When the weekend is over, numerous posts and articles about the attendees' experiences will be written, sharing their new found knowledge about Vermont.

Along with Lenn Thompson, Todd Trzaskos, and Remy Charest, I have helped to plan our itinerary and participants, which currently includes: la garagista farm + winery, Lincoln Peak Vineyard, Shelburne Vineyard, Fable Farm Cider, SILO Distillery, Vermont Spirits Distilling Co., Stonecutter Spirits, Shacksbury Cider, Putney Mountain Winery, Huntington River Vineyard, Prohibition Pig and Hill Farmstead Brewing. This list will continue to grow and be refined and the weekend should offer some of the best Vermont has to offer. There is even a new Sake brewery in Vermont, the Mercy Brewing Company, which I hope we can get to participate too.

If you would like to attend TasteCamp 2016, there is some limited space available, but you must be a writer or other wine trade professional. You can register here to reserve a spot and if you have any questions, please contact Lenn Thompson. If you are a Vermont producer of drinks or food and are interested in participating, you can comment on this post or contact Lenn.

Can't wait for Spring in Vermont!

Il Casale Cucina Campana + Bar: Wines of Campania

What wine pairs well with pig's tail and feet? Maybe the "Barolo of the South."

In Lexington center, you'll find il Casale Cucina Campana + Bar, the third restaurant from the de Magistris family, including Chef Dante de Magistris and his brothers Damian and Filippo. Their family is from the town of Candida in the Irpinia region of Campania, which is located in southern Italy. You might be more familiar with its capital, Naples. The restaurant reflects the cuisine of that region, including a number of old family recipes.

As it states on their website, "Nestled in the lush hills and valleys of the mountainous region of Irpinia lies their hometown village, Candida, where recipes survive only by word of mouth or at best are scratched on distressed pieces of paper hidden between the pages of a bible or an old phone book."

The Menu presents Sfizi, small plates ($5-$11), Antipasti ($9-$16), Primi, pasta dishes (small $11-$14, large $22-$28), Pasta al Forno, baked pasta ($$14-$28), and Secondi ($21-$36). It is moderately priced, offering high quality dishes in a casual and fun atmosphere. The restaurant is very open and airy, with an open kitchen and views of Lexington center. Their wine list includes some Italian wines which the de Magistris have specially imported and are not available anywhere else in the U.S.

I was invited to il Casale to experience a media dinner which showcased the wines of the Campania region. As I had just been to another Campania wine tasting the week before, I was intrigued to see how the il Casale wines would compare to those I previously tasted. Campania has a rich vinous history, extending back about three thousand years, and at least a few of their indigenous grapes extend back to the ancient Greeks. However, many wine lovers still are not familiar with the wines of Campania and that needs to change.

In addition, you should check out il Casala in Lexington for some delicious food which will transport you to southern Italy for an evening.

Our evening began with a white wine from the de Magistris’ private label, Phoenix famiglia de Magsitris. The phoenix is a symbol of Campania and also makes for a nice illustration on the wine label. The 2014 Coda di Volpe is produced from the rare Coda di Volpe grape and its name translates as the "tail of the fox." Campania is one of the few Italian wine regions which makes wine from 100% of this varietal. I found this wine to be pleasant and easy drinking, with tasty flavors of melon, citrus, and honey with floral accents and some herbal notes on the finish. An interesting wine, it has plenty of character and should appeal to many wine lovers.

As we enjoyed this wine, we received two planks of antipasti, including one hot plank and one cold plank. The hot mix included Bruschetta with cherry tomatoes, garlic, & Sicilian oregano; Burrata with candied pistachios, honey, & Sicilian oregano; 31 month aged “vacche rosse” parmigiana reggiano; Fried calamari with lemon mascarpone, crispy lemon, & donna’s pepperoncini; Speck & warren pears with frog hollow farm pears, smoked prosciutto, arugula, gorgonzola crema, & hazelnuts; Fried mozzarella & prosciutto motto, with tomato basil salad; Potato croquette, “panzerotti,” stuffed with smoked scamorza & roasted red pepper sauce; and Arancini with white wine parmigiana risotto, truffled fontina fonduta, & chives.

What an abundance of delicious flavors and textures and you could happily enjoy just some antipasti and wine rather than order an entree. I thoroughly enjoyed all of these items, though the Burrata and Speck were my two favorite bites. Everything seemed fresh, was cooked just right and each bite was nicely balanced. An excellent start to the evening.

Our second wine was also from the Phoenix label, a 2014 Fiano di Avelino DOCG. Fiano is an ancient grape and its original name was Vitis apiana, Latin for "vine of the bees." This was a bright and crisp wine, with vibrant citrus and lemon flavors, a nice minerality and a bit of tartness on the finish. This would be a good pairing for seafood, or a dish with a cream sauce because of its high acidity. An excellent white wine, this would be perfect for the summer, but would also work well in the winter, dependent on your food pairing.

All of their pastas are made in-house and they use different flours to make different types of pasta. The Spaghetti Puttanesca, is made with chitarra pasta, anchovies, capers, olives, and tomatoes. The pasta was excellent, with a nice texture to it, and there was some umami elements to the flavors of this dish.  It was a hearty dish, perfect for a winter evening.

Of the two pasta dishes though, my personal favorite was the Frutti di Mare "Alla Crema di Basilico" which was made with spaghetti, cream, clams, shrimp, mussels, and octopus. The creamy seafood was compelling and the pasta texture once again was excellent, enhancing the dish. All of the seafood was tender and again, it was a hearty dish, perfect to warm your belly during a chilly evening.

Onto the red wines, starting with the 2008 Vinosia Santadrea Taurasi, which is from a newer winery but the owners have plenty of experience and now want to create their own wines. The wine is made from 100% Aglianico, maybe the top red grape in Campania and which is sometimes referred to as the "Barolo of the South." The Vinosia was produced in a more traditional style, with a deep almost black color and an intense, alluring aroma of blueberries and spice. On the palate,  the wine is complex and interesting, with a pleasing melange of black and red fruits, from ripe plum to raspberries, with mild spice notes, moderate tannins, good acidity and hints of chocolate. Such a compelling wine, I was very enthusiastic about it and would highly recommend it. An excellent wine for hearty pasta dishes, wild game, steak and more.

The next dish was the de Magistris family "soul food," a rustic soup from the mountains of Irpinia made with braised better greens, pigs tails & feet. For the potentially squeamish in our group, all of the meat had already been removed from the tail and feet so you wouldn't have known where the meat came from if you just looked at the dish. Back in Campania, you would have found the actual tail and feet in our dish, which I would't have minded. The tender meat was delicious, with a superb savory broth, and it paired perfectly with the Vinosia, answering my initial questions in this post. Though the sound of the dish, tail and feet, might turn you off, it would be a mistake not to try this tasty dish which would please any meat lover.

The 2008 Vinosia Marziacanalae Taurus, also made from 100% Aglianico, is more of a modern, international-style wine. It is a silky smooth wine with black and red fruit flavors but also a strong vanilla streak, almost giving it a hint of sweetness.  It is a style that will appeal to wine lovers though my personal preference was for the more traditional style wine.  I think the more traditional style better reflects the region of Campania as the modern style can be found in many areas around the world, from California to Australia.

The last savory dish was the Pizzaiola, Neapolitan braised beef, San Marzano tomatoes, roasted potatoes, pine nuts, and raisins. Once again, the meat was very tender and flavorful, with crispy potatoes, and it paired well with the wine, though I think the traditional style Vinosia was the best of the two pairings. The pine nuts added a nice crunchy texture to the dish, as well as their own nutty flavor.

The last wine of the evening was the 2009 Vinosia Sesto A Quinconce Aglianico, one of the top wines from this producer. It is 100% Aglianico, from vines that are at least 75 years old, and they make only about 500 cases each year. It is dark and deep, intense and muscular yet still with plenty of elegance and restrained tannins. Back fruits, spice, cocoa and so much more can be found in this complex and intriguing wine. It is more in the traditional style and I was thoroughly impressed, finding so much to like about this wine. Highly recommended!

For dessert, we had a Rum Baba with pastry cream, amarena cherries, and crushed biscotti. A nice blend of flavors and textures, it was light enough that almost anyone could find some room tin their belly to enjoy this dessert.

We also enjoyed some Piccolini, a variety of cookies including Florentines, Biscotti (chocolate hazelnut and almond,) and Lady Fingers with apricot. The Florentines were my favorites.

Before I left, I had to try their Meletti Barrel Aged Manhattan, which is made with Overholt Rye, Meletti Amaro, & Amarena cherry. A deep and savory cocktail, it had some intriguing spice and herbal notes,  with a nice bitter tinge. It is an intriguing variation of a Manhattan, substituting Amaro for Vermouth, and it works very well. No Manhattan lover should object to this cocktail and the barrel aging seems to provide some added depth to the drink. Check it out!

And seek out the wines of Campania, both their whites and reds.

Rant: Restaurants, Hygiene & First Impressions

When compiling my first impressions of a new restaurant, I'm forgiving of many service and food issues as I understand it can take a little time for a new place to work its initial kinks out. I'll usually return at a later date to see how the restaurant has evolved, to note what changes might have been instituted. However, there are some serious issues that may arise on my first visit to a restaurant which might cause me never to return. It arises infrequently but occurred on one of my latest forays to a new local restaurant.

While I was out running some errands, I was considering where to grab lunch. I noted a Facebook post that a new wood-fired pizzeria was opening that day and I was very close to its location. I decided to give it a try, sitting at the counter in front of the open kitchen and wood-fired oven. I had some issues with the service and food, but nothing I couldn't attribute to the fact that it was only their first day open. They were issues I could overlook for the moment and I normally would have returned after some time to dine there again.

However, I won't dine there again. I saw something which disturbed me, which should not have occurred. Something I just cannot ignore.

The pizza peel, the tool which they use to remove the finished pizza from the oven, was standing up against a wall. At one point, while I was eating my pizza, the peel fell over onto the floor. The chef/owner picked up the peel and put it back against the wall. He then used it to remove multiple pizzas from the oven. This is where the problem arose.

The chef/owner did not clean or even just wipe off the peel after it had fallen to the floor. He did not replace it with another peel. Absolutely wrong. There is no reason why he couldn't have taken a minute to clean the peel. And this was in my full view as I was sitting at the counter. He didn't even try to hide the fact he failed to clean the peel.

If some inexperienced kitchen employee had done this, I might have been a bit forgiving but this was the chef/owner, the person who knows better. I find it inexcusable for the chef/owner to have done this in front of me. And it raises the question in my mind of what hygiene problems existed that I didn't witness or couldn't see. This was a negative first impression and I won't give them the chance at a second impression.