2013 Psagot’s Edom: Nectar of Israel

Israeli wines suffer from an image problem, and many wine stores contribute to this issue though it probably isn't a conscious intent. Many consumers equate Israeli wines with only Kosher wines, so they will choose to ignore Israeli wines unless they are actively seeking a Kosher wine. Many wine stores separate their wines by country or region, such as France or California. Yet when it comes to Israeli wines, these same stores generally don't have an "Israel" section but they have a "Kosher" section," where all the Israeli wines are placed. So why wouldn't an uninformed consumer consider all Israeli wines to be Kosher?

Although many Israeli wines are Kosher, recent years have seen a surge of Israeli wines, especially produced by boutique wineries, imported into the U.S. which are not Kosher. These wines are worthy of being placed in their own regional section, and not hidden in a wine store under the Kosher label. I've tasted a number of these wines, finding many to be high quality and delicious. It is time consumers learned more about these Israeli wines. It is also time that wine lovers embraced quality Kosher wines just because they are tasty wines.

Wine making in Israeli extends back to biblical times but when Muslims eventually took control of the region, winemaking took a serious hit, especially when Muslims tore up many of the vines, destroying the indigenous grapes of the region. It wasn't until the late 19th century that winemaking returned, due to the efforts of Baron Edmond de Rothschild and Sir Moses Montefiore. It isn't a surprise that they planted French varietals in Israel, from Cabernet Sauvignon to Chardonnay. It is those type of grapes which still dominate in the vineyards of Israel.

Na’ama & Yaakov Berg planted some vineyards in 1998, founding the Psagot Winery in 2003. The term "Psagot" translates in Hebrew as "peaks" and also refers to an Israeli settlement, in the West Bank, located on Mount Tawil. This settlement was established in 1981, receiving its name not only because it was located near the peak of the mountain, but also because the settlement was intended to reach a "peak" in settlement and the study of the Torah. The winery is located in this region, with a fantastic view of the Wadi Kelt and the Edom mountains. There are also several other wineries in this region.

One of the more unique aspects of the Psagot winery is that they have two barrel storage cellars, one which is a more modern version, and the other which is in a cave that dates back to the Second Temple era (530 BEC-70 CE). This cave was found to contain some ancient winemaking equipment. The replica coin depicted on their wine label is a copy of an actual coin (from 66 CE-73 CE) that was found when they were excavating the cave. The cave maintains a 90% humidity and temperatures up to 18 degrees Celsius.

Currently, the wine produces about 10 different types of wine, with a total annual production of approximately 300,000 bottles, exporting about 65% of that production. They produce a number of single varietal wines, including Cabernet Sauvignon, Cabernet Franc, Merlot, Shiraz and Chardonnay, as well as a Bordeaux blend and a Port-style wine.

I received a media sample of their Bordeaux blend, the 2013 Psagot’s Edom ($35), which is a blend of 63% Merlot, 16% Cabernet Sauvignon, 11% Petit Verdot, and 10% Cabernet Franc. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and then underwent malolactic fermentation in French and American oak barrels. It was finally matured in French and American oak for about 14 months.

The wine possesses a deep red (almost purple) color, and an appealing nose of dark berries and mild spice. On the palate, it is a full-bodied wine with smooth, well-integrated tannins, and lush, enticing flavors. There are rich flavors of ripe plum, blackberry and black cherry, accented by intriguing spice notes, hints of vanilla, and a touch of minerality. This well-balanced and complex wine drinks easily and ends with a lengthy, satisfying finish. Though you could enjoy this wine on its own, it also would pair well with hearty foods, from roast lamb to a pasta Bolognese. I enjoyed this wine with grilled burgers and it worked well together.

For those concerned with such matters, this wine is Kosher, but I hope most people see this as an Israeli wine and not just a Kosher wine. This is a wine that most wine lovers would enjoy and which deserves a place on their table. As people begin to start drinking more full-bodied reds as the temperatures drop this fall, the 2013 Psagot Edom would be an excellent choice!

Rant: Without Hospitality, A Restaurant Fails

"Hospitality is the virtue of a great soul that cares for the whole universe through the ties of humanity."
--Chevalier Louis de Jaucourt in Encyclopédie, ou dictionnaire raisonné des sciences, des arts et des métiers

In short, hospitality is the warm, friendly reception and treatment of your guests. It is important in many areas, including restaurants, but it doesn't seem everyone understands its vital role. That failure can have a negative impact on a restaurant's bottomline so a restaurant owner needs to ensure that hospitality is a crucial element of their operations. It is said to be part of the hospitality industry.  However, it may sound simple, but sometimes it isn't, and mainly through those blind to the potential problems.

Anyone working at a restaurant in the front of the house is responsible, for one degree or another, for providing hospitality. This is certainly obvious for the host/hostess and servers, but also includes the bartender, sommelier, manager, and even the owner, if they spend time in the front of the restaurant. It doesn't matter how good a restaurant's food and drink, if their hospitality is lacking, it will end up turning away customers. And those people will likely complain to others about the lack of hospitality which could lead to the loss of even more potential customers.

This post was spurred on by a recent discussion with some good friends about specific restaurants and hospitality. Mention was made of the owner of a high-end restaurant who is seen as brusque and impersonal as well as the sommelier at another high-end restaurant who seems detached at times, and fails to present the type of warm hospitality you expect at such a place. Both restaurants have excellent food and drink, but these prominent individuals, who fail to provide a high measure of hospitality, can turn away customers who otherwise would frequent such restaurants.

Naming names won't accomplish anything so don't even ask. If you've been to those restaurants, it should be more than evident there is a problem. What I am hoping is that all restaurants take a new look at themselves and ensure they are working hard to present the best hospitality that they can. Examine all of your staff, including yourself, to ensure you are coming across as personable and friendly. Some people, because of their personalities, may not be the best for the front of the house. If they can't change, to learn to do better, they maybe they should be moved to another position.

People dine out not just for food and drink, but for the experience. They want to be treated well, as a beloved guest, so if the hospitality is lacking, their experience suffers. And they won't want to repeat such a failed experience. Have your chef make the best food possible, have your sommelier compile a killer wine list, have your bartender concoct an awesome cocktail program, but don't forget the importance of hospitality.

Direct Wine Shipping & Local Wine Shops

As we near the holiday season, we approach the time when wine stores generally make their greatest amount of sales, their most profitable period of the year. Consumers tend to buy more wine for holiday parties and gifts. They are more willing to splurge, and purchase more expensive bottles of wine. I've worked at a local wine shop for a number of holiday seasons and have witnessed this consumer surge. Staff recommendations to customers become very important.

It is also during this season that I've written a number of articles, providing advice to consumers on selecting wine. Much of that advice involves choosing the right wine store and relying on the expertise of the wine shop staff in helping make your selections. I've been very supportive of local, independent wine stores however it isn't a blind support. My support, of any person, company of institution, needs to be earned and there will be issues where I hold a different opinion than wine stores. That certainly has come to the forefront this week.

On Monday, I posted Rant: MA Wine Lovers, We Urgently Need Your Help!, throwing my support behind bill, H3891, sponsored by Representative John Lawn, Jr., which would allow Massachusetts residents to "purchase and have shipped to them wine from out-of-state wine stores, Internet retailers, wine auction houses and wine-of-the-month clubs." There is a hearing on this bill scheduled for September 12, and I urged wine lovers to support this bill by sending emails to the Committee members prior to the hearing. And a number of them did so, as well as sharing the post for greater exposure.

However, I also heard, both online and offline, from a number of wine store owners, all essentially opposed to this bill. The basis of their opposition is that they fear they will lose business if this bill becomes law. In addition, so far, none of them has provided any facts or statistics to support their allegations. There is nothing to indicate what percentage of business, if any, they might lose to direct shipments of wine. Are their fears unfounded?

Even if Bill H3891 doesn't become law this time, it is only a matter of time before a similar law will be enacted. Back in 2006, a law was passed that barred many wine shipments from entering Massachusetts but it was later ruled unconstitutional, a decision affirmed by the U.S. 1st Circuit Court of Appeals in 2010. Since that time, Massachusetts alcohol laws have been expanding, making numerous changes to the industry, from expanding the number of liquor licenses a single entity can possess to BYOB in Boston. As well as the recent change that permitted out-of-state wineries to directly ship to Massachusetts consumers. It is inevitable that the law will change to allow all direct wine shipments, and not just from wineries.

Back in 2014, as the bill to allow direct shipment from wineries was being considered, I already indicated that I hoped the law would also change to allow direct wine shipments from out-of-state wineries and online retailers. So, my support of the idea behind Bill H3891 shouldn't surprise anyone.  And in January 2016, I posted Rant: No Predictions, Only Desires, and stated: "Massachusetts has slowly been releasing the reins on wine control so there is much of which to be hopeful. A law was finally passed permitting wineries to ship to consumers in Massachusetts but we still need a law allowing online and out of state, brick & mortar retailers to ship to Massachusetts consumers. Let's see a push for this expansion in the wine shipping law."

Some of the latest statistics behind Direct to Consumer Wine Shipping come from an annual collaboration between ShipCompliant by Sovos and Wines & Vines, in the 2017 Direct To Consumer Wine Shipping Report. DtC wine shipments, despite their growth, still constitute only a small percentage of wine sales. The top five states that avail themselves of DtC wine shipments include California 31%, Texas 9%, New York 6%, Washington 5%, and Florida 5% with only 1.6% of DtC sales from Massachusetts.

In 2015, the first year Massachusetts allowed DtC wine shipments, the total value of those shipments was about $27.5M, and in 2016, that amount increased to about $39M. The average price of the wine shipped to Massachusetts was $41.79, which is higher than the country-wide average of $38.69. Massachusetts wine lovers are tending to purchase higher end wines directly from wineries. The report predicts that, "The state will likely see above average growth in 2017, but nothing astronomical."

The report also notes in its conclusions primary reason for the expansion of DtC channels, "That said, growth in the DtC shipping channel is reflective of changes in the wine industry itself. In particular, the ongoing consolidation of the wholesale distribution tier and the continued difficulty small and medium-sized wineries have in gaining access to wholesale distribution are important factors in wineries’ increased reliance and focus on direct shipments. The wholesaler consolidation will likely drive increased DtC shipping going forward." Over the year, I've spoken to numerous wineries who have indicated their frustration in trying to find a wholesaler who will sell and give sufficient attention to their wines.

As such, there are thousands of wines available in the U.S. which cannot be purchased in Massachusetts. There are plenty of wine lovers who want access to those wines, who want the ability to purchase any wine that is available in the U.S. Why shouldn't they have such access? As the current DtC statistics indicate, DtC shipping is still only a tiny percentage of wine sales and most people are opting for higher end wines. Allowing DtC wine shipping won't shut down local, independent wine shops. Such stores face a far greater threat from local, big-box wine stores than DtC wine shipping.

Good local, independent wine shops are needed, providing experienced staff to help make wine recommendations. And I have long supported such good shops. Over ten years ago, in the second post to my blog, I wrote Choosing a Wine Store, and it remains as relevant now as it did back then. The article provides my criteria for wine stores, from Selection to Service. Each year, in my annual Favorite posts such as 2016: Favorite Wine-Related Items, I provide some specific recommendations for my Favorite Wine Stores and Favorite Discount Wine Stores.

I've also give consumers plenty of advice on purchasing wine. In my Rant: The Best Way To Buy Wine, I state that "... my best advice is to ask the wine store owner, manager or employee for advice on selecting your wines. It is simple advice but can be extremely effective, with the caveat that you need to shop at the right wine store." In my Rant: The Lazy Way Of Buying Wine As A Gift, I continue that advice, "What you should do is stop at your local wine shop and ask for recommendations, for more unusual and different wines, for wines that are excellent values."

And in Rant: Holiday Wines--Don't Be A Cheapskate, I address the question of "How do you find these inexpensive but interesting wines?" First, "...the easiest path is to seek out one of the better discount wine stores," and I provide a few specific recommendations. Second, I mention that,"At whatever wine shop you visit, it might be best to ask the wine store staff for recommendations of value wines. They should be able to direct you toward those inexpensive wines which will be more interesting and delicious than those cheap commercial wines."

I've also jumped into the discussion of big-box wine stores in my Rant: Total Wine, Low Prices & Consumers. "To me, the best alcohol retail stores possess three key elements: a diverse & interesting selection, good service with knowledgeable staff, and reasonable pricing. The only way to find wines, beers, and spirits from such small wineries, breweries and distilleries, is at the smaller, more independent wine stores. We should cherish the diversity that is available at these retailers, expanding our palate beyond just the major national brands. In addition, by supporting these smaller alcohol retailers, you are giving your support to those smaller wineries, breweries and distilleries. They need your support, so they can continue to produce their interesting and diverse beverages."

Direct to Consumer Wine Shipments are inevitable and wine stores must find ways to deal with it. Currently, it doesn't appear that such shipments will have a significant impact on local wine stores, certainly nowhere near as much of an impact as the growth of big-box wine stores. These shipments will help wine lovers gain access to many thousands of previously unavailable wines. However, those same wine lovers will still patronize their local wine shops, and there are multiple reasons why that will occur. Yes, I support local, independent wine stores but I don't see these direct wine shipments as a serious threat to them.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) From September 14 to October 11, Legal Sea Foods’ will bring half-shell hedonism to mollusk mavens and oyster newbies during their ninth annual “Oyster Festival.” For four weeks, a sequence of in-restaurant menu features and a shuckout event will celebrate everything oysters and all are invited who share the belief “the world is your oyster.”

Bivalve specialties will be available for the duration of the Oyster Festival and include Fried Oysters (three for $10) in four preparations (buffalo, BBQ, Sriracha lime and BLT); Baked Oysters (three for $12) available in a quartet of options (lobster spinach, crab & cheese, scampi and roasted); Oyster Stew ($14.95); and, the Legal Sea Foods teams will shuck seasonal standouts at their raw bars daily for those who opt to go au natural. Legals also suggests washing it down with the official drink of the 2017 Oyster Festival, the Skiff Cocktail, with Absolut Vodka, aromatized wine, lemon, botanicals and celery bitters ($11).

On September 16 at 2pm, Legal Sea Foods’ al fresco Charles Terrace (20 University Road, Cambridge) will host their annual “Shellfish Shindig” event that has shucked oysters by the bushel for only $1 per slurp. First-come, first-served; get 'em while they last! (Complimentary admission.) In the event of rain, the “Shellfish Shindig” event will take place inside the atrium of the Charles Square restaurant.

The Oyster Festival is celebrated at all Legal Sea Foods locations throughout Massachusetts, with the exception of airport venues.

2) On Tuesday, September 12, at 7pm, Ledger, a progressive new restaurant conceptualized by Chef Matt O’Neil and located in the heart of historic downtown Salem, will host acclaimed Chef Maria Sinskey of Napa’s renowned Robert Sinskey Vineyards for an intimate five-course wine dinner featuring the cuisine of Executive Chef Daniel Gursha and Chef de Cuisine Craig White.

Guests in attendance will not only enjoy five exquisite courses artfully prepared with locally sourced, seasonal ingredients, each paired with a hand-selected varietal from Sinskey’s Napa Valley vineyard; they’ll leave knowing the exciting story behind each pour, along with insider knowledge of what it takes go from vine, to vintage.

A true reflection of the restaurant’s commitment to serving traditional 19th century New England-inspired dishes elevated by today’s resources and culinary techniques, the menu will be presented as follows:

1st Course
Salad of Summer Melons (stracciatella, speck, verbena dressing)
Pairing: Pinot Blanc Los Cameros 2013
2nd Course
Live Scallop Crudo (cherry, green apple, sunflower oil)
Pairing: Abraxas Vin de Terroir Scintilla Sonoma Valley Vineyard 2014
3rd Course
Confit Duck Leg (mulled cherry, celery root, lacinato kale)
Pairing: Pinot Noir Los Cameros 2013
4th Course
North Star Smoked Lambchetta (huckleberry, local grains)
Pairing: POV Los Cameros 2012
5th Course
Pear Tarte Tatin (frangipane, pinot gris ice cream)
Pairing: Pinot Gris Late Harvest Los Cameros 2012

COST: $129 per guest (gratuity not included)
To make a Reservation, please call 978-594-1908

3) Every Wednesday, Kendall Square’s newly opened Sumiao Hunan Kitchen will be offering their twist on the classic Wing Wednesday deal by offering a complimentary order of their popular Nom Numb Wings with the purchase of a Tiki for Two cocktail. Combining Dewars White Label Scotch, Beefeater Gin, Mixed Juices and Cruzan 151, the Tiki for Two is a timelessly sweet, shareable drink that pairs perfectly with the spiciness of Sumiao’s Nom Numb Wings.

Seasoned with dried hot chili and peppercorn oil, Sumiao’s Nom Numb Wings are bursting with complex umami flavors. Whether a seasoned wing eater or not, guests are sure to love the robust, rich flavor of Sumiao’s Nom Numb Wings.

COST: Purchase one Tiki for Two cocktail ($30), receive one complimentary order of wings.

4) On Tuesday, September 12, from 7pm-9pm, Tavolo will host a special 9th Anniversary Party, celebrating all those years of serving high-quality Italian food, drinks, and hospitality in Dorchester's Peabody Square. Chris Douglas, chef/owner of Tavolo, was one of the pioneers in the South End as the chef/owner at Icarus, closing in 2009 after a 31-year run. He then opened Ashmont Grill and Tavolo, both a short walk from the Ashmont T Station on the Red Line.

Tavolo is a casual, neighborhood restaurant serving housemade pasta, pizza, and excellent Italian food. They recently completed an extensive renovation, including 2 gorgeous murals by local artist, April Clay. Weekly events include special Sunday Suppers (3 courses for $30), Monday and Tuesday cicchetti specials, trivia every Monday, and a weekly dinner on Wednesdays where chef chooses a region of Italy and highlights it with a 3-course meal for $30.

The 9th Anniversary Party will include fall menu samples from their new Executive Chef, Eric Buonagurio. Eric's first job at 17, was with Chef Jason Santos at Gargoyles on the Square in Somerville. He also worked with Jason at Blue Inc. (sous chef), Abby Lane (sous chef), and Back Bay Harry's as executive chef. Eric opened Parla in the North End as executive chef. Eric developed a passion for gardening and the outdoors at a young age, as his grandfather, father, and brothers shared their knowledge and experience. He is an avid gardener, hiker, and outdoorsman who has been foraging for wild mushrooms and herbs for 4 years.

Eric states: "I love produce and the gratification of starting a seed, nurturing the plant, and producing food from it. I'm passionate about being close to where food comes from and really trying to understand all aspects of cooking from sourcing the food, trying different techniques, and creating new dishes. I love the challenge of exploring new ingredients and flavors with the changing New England seasons. I'm excited about preparing food that tastes great, but is also beautifully presented. My priority at Tavolo is to cultivate strong relationships with local foragers and farmers like the folks at Langwater Farm in Easton, MA. They offer true, local organics and amazing produce that I'm proud to continue featuring on our menu."

There is no cover charge for the 9th Anniversary Party and there will be a cash bar.

2015 Proyecto Garnachas de Espana La Garnacha Salvaje del Moncayo: A Killer Value

It's often said that it's easy to find an excellent $50 wine but it's much more difficult to find an excellent $10 wine. There are certainly plenty of wines available for $10-$15 but not all of them are of the same quality. The best of those value wines over-deliver for their price, and you would have paid, without question, even more money for those wines. It's always an exciting time when I find one such wine, an inexpensive wine that is both complex and delicious.

You can find a number of these excellent value wines coming from Spain, and the importer Vintae is distributing some of these values, such as these two White Wines. Back in 1999, José Miguel Arambarri Terrero started a winery in Spain, eventually enlisting the assistance of his sons, Ricardo and José Miguel. They eventually expanded their operations, adding wineries, and are now producing wine in 15 Denominations of Origin (D.O). Their overall company became known as Vintae and they export many of their wines to the U.S. I'm here to showcase another of their wines, a great value Garnacha, which I received as a media sample.

Proyecto Garnachas de Espana is a project started by winemaker Raul Acha, who is also the Technical Director of Vintae. Raul is from Rioja, where Garnacha was once the main grape before Tempranillo eventually took center stage. He wanted to resurrect the importance of Garnacha and searched other areas of Spain, mainly in the Ebro Valley, for the best Garnacha, seeking sites that would reflect the intriguing terroir of this grape. Part of the reason for the decline of Garnacha is that some feel it has a complicated viticulture and is more difficult for production. However, Garnacha can make some amazing wines so it is important to ensure this grape thrives.

I received a media sample of the 2015 Proyecto Garnachas de Espana La Garnacha Salvaje del Moncayo ($11.99), which is made from 100% Garnacha from the Valle del Ebro and has a 13.5% ABV. It is fermented in stainless steel and then is aged for five months in new French oak barrels. Initially, I found a more subtle aroma on this wine, mild fruity notes with hints of spice. On the palate, the wine immediately impressed, presenting delicious black fruit flavors, enhanced with a touch of earthiness and spice, and there was even some minerality beneath it all. The tannins were well integrated, presenting a smooth and easy drinking wine, with a moderately lengthy and satisfying finish. It didn't take long for us to finish this bottle.  

This is a killer value wine, presenting more complexity than many other wines at this price point. You could easily enjoy this on its own, or accompanied with food, from pizza to ribs. I enjoyed this wine with some burgers and it was a tasty pairing. This is the type of wine you should buy by the case, to ensure you always have a bottle on hand in case you have guests stop by your home.