The Origins of Spaghetti Alla Carbonara

What is the "proper" way to make Spaghetti alla Carbonara? Should you use cream or not? Must you use guanciale, or can you instead use pancetta, bacon or ham? What cheese should you use, Pecorino or Parmesan? Do you use whole eggs or just the yolks? Can you add onions or garlic? This is a controversial issue, with purists claiming that it can only be produced in a certain way with certain ingredients. 

However, this controversy is more of a modern issue, as there certainly wasn't a consensus during the early years of this dish. Much more flexibility and variation was permitted in this dish, and it wasn't until some later date that some purists united to try to limit this dish to a specific method and ingredients.  

Let's explore the early origins of Spaghetti alla Carbonara, to gain insight intro its history and the first recipes for this delicious dish. Frankly, no one can prove its actual origins, although there are plenty of theories. The first documented reference of Spaghetti alla Carbonara is from 1950, although the dish appears to have existed prior to this time, and probably was invented sometime during the 1940s. 

I'll mention some of the more popular origin theories, and then I'll check out its earliest documented references, through the 1950s, to see if they provide any insight into its origins. 

First theory: It could be linked to the Carbonari, a secret society that was established in the early 19th century to oppose Napoleonic rule in Italy. However, the group ended its activities in the mid-19th century, long before the potential invention of Carbonara. In addition, none of the Italian cookbooks of the 19th century used the term "alla carbonara," so this origin seems unlikely, despite the similarity of the name.  

Second theory: It might be linked to the carbonai, the Italian "charcoal burners," who gathered wood and transformed it into charcoal. They were poor people, and the occupation began to die off in the 20th century. It's unlikely that pasta was a common food with the carbonai, so they probably didn't create the "alla carbonara" recipe either. However, the similarity of their name to "carbonara" could imply some type of link, especially considering some of the later references that I'll mention.  

There's a related theory that spaghetti alla carbonara was invented by La Carbonara restaurant. This place was opened in 1912 by a family of carbonai. It's alleged that Federico Salomone was a charcoal burner and this wide, Domenica, cooked food for the other charcoal burners in the area. The family eventually chose to open a restaurant, getting out of the charcoal burner business. However, it doesn't appear that the restaurant ever claimed to have invented the dish. 

Third theory: Maybe the most popular theory is that some believe that the dish originated after World War II, when American soldiers had remained behind to help Italians rebuild after the devastation of war. With rationing going on in Italy, some ingredients were difficult to obtain. Allegedly, an Italian chef, cooking for the Americans, decided to use certain ingredients from U.S. Army rations in a new pasta dish, which became spaghetti alla carbonara. 

Some support for this theory came in 1991, when a Bolognese cook, Renato Gualandi, published a book, Erbissima, which claimed that he was one of the inventors of Carbonara in 1944. He alleged that he and other Italian cooks, while in the Italian city of Riccione, prepared a celebratory meal for British and American soldiers. Riccione was liberated by the Allies on September 20, 1944, so this celebration had to have been held shortly thereafter. 

Renato, who was born in 1921, would have been 23 years old at the time of this celebration, and worked with other, unnamed Italian cooks. Renato claimed he wanted to invent a dish that combined Italian, Anglo-Saxon and Slovenian traditions, but was very limited in available ingredients. So, he ended up using items from army rations, including powdered milk, freeze-dried eggs, processed cheese, bacon and black pepper, atop spaghetti. One source also claimed that Renato called the dish "carbonara" because the black pepper atop the dish resembled charcoal, carbone in Italian. 

One of Renato's closest associates, Silverio, later claimed, sometime after 1991, that Renato told him about the creation of this dish, although Renato told him it was invented in Rome. After Riccione, it is said that Renato traveled to Rome, which is about 200 miles south of Riccione, and became a cook for the Allied troops there for about seven months. 

Even though this theory is appealing to many people, there doesn't appear to be any documentary evidence prior to 1991 to verify its veracity. None of the earliest documented references to this dish refer to Renato, or its alleged invention in Riccione. Renato apparently didn't promote himself as its inventor until 1991, almost 50 years after its alleged invention, which makes his claims suspect. In addition, he was a Bolognese chef, but the dish has long been considered a Roman dish.  

Fourth theory: There's also a claim that Carbonara was first served in Rome, around 1944, in a trattoria on Vicolo della Scrofa (the alley of Scrofa). American servicemen in Italy allegedly stopped here and loved the dish. Again, there's no real evidence to support this theory. There are plenty of other theories, but none possess sufficient supporting evidence or documentation. 

Now, let's address the earliest documented references to Spaghetti alla Carbonara, especially during the 1950s. Can any of these references provide insight into the dish's origins?

The first documented reference to Spaghetti Alla Carbonara was from July 26, 1950, in the Turin-based newspaper La Stampa. In an article titled "Il Papa ha “passato ponte'" ("The Pope makes a visit across the bridge".) The article describes the Trastevere district of Rome and mentioned the owner of a restaurant, Da Cesaretto alla Cisterna, which served carbonara. The article noted, “Fu questo oste ad accogliere per primo gli ufficiali americani giunti in Trastevere parecchi anni or sono in cerca di spaghetti alla carbonara.” 

This basically translates, as "It was this innkeeper who first welcomed American officers who came to Trastevere several years ago in search of spaghetti carbonara.” So, it appears that spaghetti carbonara extended back at least to the 1940s, and that U.S. soldiers enjoyed the dish. This reference is often used as some support for Renato's claim. However, the reference simply indicates U.S. soldiers enjoyed the dish, It doesn't say anything about why they enjoyed the dish or where they first encountered it. It could just as well be used to support the Fourth theory. 

Also in 1950, there was a reference to "spaghetti alla carbonara" in Lunga vita di Trilussa, a biography written by Mario dell'Arco. Trilussa was the pseudonym of Carlo Alberto Camillo Mariano Salustri, a famous Roman poet (1871-1950). The biography noted, "Our hero almost never attacked a dish of spaghetti 'alla carbonara' or 'alla carrettiera' without the aid of two or three equally gluttonous friends." So, again, there's evidence of carbonara prior to 1950, although we're unsure of the time frame of this reference. And the reference provides no clues as to the dish's origins. 

In 1951, an Italian film, Cameriera bella presenza offresi ("Housemaid"), included a brief reference to Spaghetti alla Carbonara. The movie was about a maid, named Maria, who worked for various employers. One of the would-be employers asked her if she could prepare Spaghetti alla Carbonara, but she replied in the negative. 

Curiously, the first known recipe for Pasta Carbonara appeared in the U.S., in Chicago in 1952! In Vittles and Vice: An Extraordinary Guide to What's Cooking on Chicago's Near North Side by Patricia Bronté (January 1952), the book described numerous Chicago restaurants, including Armando's. This restaurant served "Pasta Carbonara" and the book provided a recipe.

The recipe stated, “Boil 1 ½ pounds of Tagliarini (thin wide noodles) according to the directions on the package. Meanwhile, chop and fry ½ pound of Mezzina (Italian bacon). Drain the noodles and the bacon. Take 4 eggs and ½ pound of grated Parmesan cheese and lightly whip together. Mix everything together and toss over a flame. Serves four.” I'll note that importantly this recipe did not call for black pepper, a significant omission.  

The two chefs at Armando's included Armando Lorenzini and Pietro Lencioni. Armando was born in the U.S. to Italian parents while Pietro grew up in Tuscany, but moved to the U.S. before he was 18 years old. Their Carbonara recipe used some more typical Tuscan, rather than Roman ingredients, including the Tagliarini and Messina, evidence of Pietro's background. 

An Italian newspaper, Il Corriere della Sera, May 4, 1952, printed a short story, Il Pensatore, by Alberto Moravia, and it included a brief reference to eating spaghetti carbonara at a trattoria. Moravia wrote numerous short stories, generally all set in Rome after World War 2. These stories would be eventually collected, in 1954, in a book titled Racconti Romani ('Roman Tales"). 

 

Then in 1954, there was another Carbonara recipe in a British cookbook, Italian Food by Elizabeth David (Britain 1954, U.S. 1958). The recipe for “Maccheroni Alla Carbonara” (Macaroni with Ham and Eggs) is shown above. The recipe states it's a Roman dish. It calls for ham or coppa, Parmesan cheese, but again, no black pepper was included in the ingredients. 

The first Italian recipe for Carbonara didn't show up until August 1954, in La Cucina Italiana magazine. The ingredients included 1 lb. spaghetti, 6 oz. pancetta, 4 oz. gruyere cheese, 2 eggs, 1 clove of garlic, salt, and pepper. As we see, pancetta, rather than guanciale was used, and Gruyere cheese, rather than Pecorino or Paremesan, was used. Plus, garlic was included, which is not part of the "proper" version promoted by purists. At least black pepper made its appearance in the recipe. 

The method for the 1954 recipe state: "Heat plenty of salted water to cook the pasta. Chop the pancetta and cut the gruyère cheese into small cubes. Once the water comes to a boil, add the spaghetti and stir. Let cook for about 15 minutes, depending on the size of the spaghetti, and drain well: remember that spaghetti is better when served al dente. Pour the eggs into a bowl, and whisk them with a fork as if you were preparing an omelet. Put the bacon and crushed garlic (which will then be removed) in a large pan to fry. Add the spaghetti, eggs, gruyere, and plenty of pepper. Stir well, continuing to do so until the egg mixture starts to thicken. Then pour the spaghetti onto the serving plate and serve immediately."

The Daily News (NY), May 15, 1955, printed a short article on Maria Lusia Taglienti, an expert on Italian food, who had collected hundreds of recipes since her childhood in Italy. Two of her favorites dishes were Spaghetti Carbonara and Pollo Alla Diesola. 

The next month, the Clarion-Ledger (MS), June 26, 1955, provided a review of her new cookbook, The Italian Cookbook by Maria Lusia Taglienti, noting she came to the U.S. in 1948. Her recipe for Spaghetti Carbonara was given (pictured above), and it included dry white wine, as well as Parmesan and Romano cheeses. It also included the use of black pepper.

In The Italian Cookbook by Maria Lusia Taglienti (NY, 1955), there's some background on her recipe for Spaghetti Carbonara. She wrote, “Here is a recipe from one of the most famous restaurants in Naples, Grande Ristorante Transatlantico in Borgo Marinaro a Santa Lucia. The restaurant is owned by Comm. Luigi Marinella & Sons and it is known not only for its cuisine, but also for its well-stocked cellar and for its large veranda on the sea, where one can enjoy the breath-taking view of the Gulf of Naples while eating.” So, even though most consider it a Roman dish, Maria got her recipe from a restaurant in Naples.

The origin of Carbonara? Maybe the earliest documented reference that sought to explain the origin of this dish was in the Indianapolis News (IN), November 15, 1955. The writer visited Rome and dined at the Garibaldina restaurant, which was located near the Roman gate. The owner told the writer about "spaghetti a la carbonara" and claimed "It is the way the carbonari make it. The charcoal burners.” He continued, “The carbonari are as old as Rome. They are itinerant workers, moving from place to place buying wood rights to lands.” 

So, this origin theory extends back at least to 1955, provided by the owner of a restaurant in Rome, but how much credence should we give it? Had this dish already become, in maybe ten or so years, fodder for myths and legends? There was no reference to Renato, or that it was first served to Allied servicemen. In all my research on the origins of carbonara, I also haven't seen anyone else mentioning this newspaper reference. 

The owner then provided the recipe for the dish. “The spaghetti is put in boiling water with a little salt. This is important. If you put it in before the water boils, it cooks to mush. You boil it about 10 minutes but it depends on the quality of the spaghetti.” He then continued, “While the spaghetti is cooking, you fry little pieces of bacon. You put this in a deep dish and beat up one egg for each person. Put the bacon with a little grease, a little oil, pepper and parmesan cheese with the eggs.” Then he stated, “Now lift out the spaghetti with two forks so that it drains lightly but doesn’t stick together. Put the spaghetti in hot and stir it around. The spaghetti cooks the eggs as it is coated. Then serve it quickly.” 

This article was printed in multiple other newspapers around the country, including Arizona, California, Iowa, Kansas, Kentucky, Michigan, Missouri, Nebraska, and Nevada. Many Americans were thus exposed to the concept of Spaghetti Alla Carbonara, and had a recipe they could use to prepare this dish at home. 

A travel guide, Eating in Italy; A Pocket Guide to Italian Food and Restaurants, by Richard Hammond & George Martin (NY, 1957), made reference to Carbonara, and mentioned a couple restaurants which served it. The book stated that spaghetti was served in various ways, including, “alla Carbonara—in a sauce made with egg, cheese and bacon, or prosciutto (ham).” The two restaurants it mentioned, located in Rome, included Il Giardino d’Inverno (“Spaghetti alla Carbonara (cooked with eggs, cheese and crisp bacon") and Trattoria Alfredo (“Spaghetti alla Carbonara, cooked with butter, cheese, bacon and pig’s cheek.”) It's interesting to see that one description includes eggs but the other doesn't, as well as one uses prosciutto while the other uses "pig's cheek," aka guanciale. 

Carbonara in England! The Observer (London, England), March 3, 1957, published an article titled,  Spaghetti for Lent, and it mentioned, “A Carbonara Sauce. Add a good teaspoon of freshly ground black pepper to ¼ lb. butter cooked till brown, throw in 4 oz. finely chopped bacon and fry till crisp. Pour over the cooked spaghetti in a pan on a low flame and then gently stir in three beaten eggs serving just before they begin to scramble and harden.”

There was a brief mention in the Times Herald (MI) March 31, 1957, noting, “Rome is noted for its spaghetti alla carbonara with a sauce of bacon, eggs and pepper.”

The Independent Star-News (CA), August 18, 1957, provided a recipe for Spaghetti Alla Carbonara, pictured above. It called for ham, olive oil, and grated Parmesan.  

The Walsall Observer (Walsall, England), August 30, 1957, also offered a recipe for Spaghetti Carbonara, claiming it was a “popular dish from Sicily.” This varies greatly from all the prior articles claiming it was a dish from Rome. This recipe calls for only egg yolks, different from most prior recipes, but it also calls for ham and noted that Parmesan was the preferable cheese. 

The National Post (Toronto, Canada), November 23, 1957, had a brief mention of Spaghetti all Carbonara, made with egg, bacon and Pecorino. This might be the first mention of Pecorino in these early references. 

Back to England. The Daily Telegraph (London, England), March 1, 1958, printed an article about the restaurants and food in Rome. It stated, “No one should leave Rome without visiting one of the four Alfredo’s, each of which claims to serve the best pasta in the world. Why not try to cook your spaghetti alla carrettiera, that is with a sauce flavored with tunny and anchovy, or even alla carbonara—eggs beaten up with cheese and pepper.”

Another name? The Staten Island Advance (NY), April 10, 1958, provided a recipe for “Spaghetti alla Moro (or Carbonara)”, with "Moro" also being spelled "Morro" in the same article. The ingredients included spaghetti, bacon, olive oil, salt, black pepper, 1 egg yolk, and Parmesan cheese. However, later references note that Spaghetti alla Morro is actually a Carbonara variation which commonly adds chili flakes or hot pepper to the dish. 

There was a brief mention in The Akron Beacon Journal (OH), July 10, 1958, which noted, “One of the favorites was spaghetti alla Carbonara, a specialty at Alfredo in Trastevere where we ate outdoors under awnings.”

In the San Angelo Evening Standard, October 6, 1958, there was an article about various famous musicians and the foods they enjoyed. Giorgio Tozzi, an opera star, enjoyed “spaghetti ala Carbonara.”

The Ogden Standard-Examiner (UT), March 10, 1959, mentioned that in Rome, “And the rich smell of spaghetti alla carbonari drifts up the street from Nino’s. (Take it from the boiling water and dip it briefly but immediately in egg beaten to a froth. Sprinkle with Parmesan cheese and bacon crumbs.)”

More support for a specific origin theory. The Chicago Tribune (IL), April 10, 1959, printed an article on Dale Robertson, an actor in western TV shows. Dale used to work on a ranch and owned a horse breeding farm. He mentioned that, “I learned to make the spaghetti, called ‘a la carbonara’ [named after the coal miners in Italy who love it] when I was in location in Europe, Dale said. ‘Immediately after the spaghetti is drained, you mix a couple of well beaten eggs, some chopped, fried bacon and drippings into the hot spaghetti. The heat of the spaghetti ‘sets’ the eggs and the bacon gives it a real flavor.’ Dale meant the carbonari, the "charcoal burners," and not "coal miners." It's interesting that this origin theory seemed to be the only such theory spread during the 1950s, the closest time frame to its likely invention in the 1940s. 

Finally, in the book, A Long Way From Missouri by Mary Margaret McBride (NY, 1959), there was a brief mention, about her travels to Rome, stating, “We went to trattorias—country inns, each of which served a distinctive pasta: cannelloni, fettucine, ravioli, lasagna, manicotti, spaghetti alla carbonara.”

It seems likely that spaghetti alla carbonara was invented during the 1940s, in Rome, although the first documented reference was from 1950. Its actual origins are unknown, although there are plenty of theories. However, the earliest documented theory, mentioned during the 1950s, connects it to the carbonari, the charcoal burners. The earliest recipes for this dish are different from what purists now consider the "proper" recipe for it. 

What are your favorite local restaurants for spaghetti all carbonara?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. For this edition, I'll be mentioning some spots for Valentine's Day celebrations. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
******************************************************
1) Kane's Donuts introduces their February flavors, to make your celebrations even sweeter. These flavors are available at all of their locations throughout the month of February. The special flavors include:

• The Gluten-Free Strawberry Delight: A cake style donut bursting with real strawberry fruit! Then drenched in a glaze made from our Signature Honey Glaze and Strawberry Fruit. 
• The Open-Faced Cherry-Filled Donut: A light and fluffy yeast donut filled with a generous dollop of rich Cherry Pie filling and iced with vanilla bean icing. 
• The Chocolate Fudge Red Velvet: A deep, rich red velvet cake-style donut frosted with chocolate fudge frosting topped with festive sprinkles. 
• The Cherry Glazed: An old-fashioned cake-style donut with real cherry fruit lovingly folded in the dough, then drenched in Kane’s Signature Honey Glaze. 
• The Vegan Coconut Cream Donut: A cake-style donut with a light fluffy frosting topped with shredded sweet coconut.
• The Valentine's Day Donut: A light and fluffy yeast donut decorated for Valentine's Day!

2) Executive Chef Daniel Kenney and the CLINK. team invite guests to "travel to Ireland" at upcoming St. Patrick's Day dinner. On Thursday, March 14th, starting at 6:30pm, CLINK. you can celebrate St. Patrick's Day with a four-course meal prepared by Executive Chef Daniel Kenney paired with Irish beers and spirits. 

Welcome Reception:
Ginger Seared Yellow Fin Tuna on Potato Toast
Paired with Jameson and Ginger
First Course:
"Potato Skins" American caviar, Maine lobster, guanciale, and crème fraiche
Paired with Irish mule
Second Course:
12-Hour Stout Braised Short Rib of Beef “Irish Stew” with local root vegetables and roquefort pudding
Paired with a pint of Guinness
Third Course:
Caramel and Irish Cream Pastry with whiskey-soaked golden raisins and peat-smoked ice cream
Paired with Baileys Irish Coffee

Tickets are $89 per person and can be purchased HERE.

Following dinner, guests are welcomed to join Liberty in its lobby rotunda for its weekly "Fashionably LATE" fashion show at 10 p.m., featuring incredible looks by REVIVALS.

Il Ponte: Compelling Italian Cuisine in Woburn

Chef Beni Kurti of Il Ponte has brought his deep passion, lengthy culinary experience, and charm to Woburn. I highly recommend that all of my readers check out his excellent Italian cuisine, from home-made pasta to Neapolitan pizza. 

Back in December 2023, I wrote an article with my First Impressions of Il Ponte. I've now dined there three times, plus got take-out once, so it's time for a more in-depth review. As I wrote before, I've known Chef Beni Kurti for several years, as he's a regular customer at the wine shop where I work, and he often spoke of his desire to open his own restaurant. Last fall, his dream came true when he opened Il Ponte in Woburn. I wasn't aware of his new restaurant until recently but once I learned of it, I've been there several times. 

Beni, a native of the Umbria region of Italy, has lived in the U.S. for about ten years or so and has about 30 years of experience in the restaurant industry. His wife, Hortenca Sheshori, who is also a native of Italy, also has numerous years of restaurant experience, and she works at Il Ponte as well. Even Beni's son works there, a true family affair. 

The homey restaurant, with a casual elegance, seats about 50 people, and has a small bar with about seven seats. The restaurant is often busy, so I'd suggest making reservations, especially if you want to dine there on the weekend. The bar seats seem to fill up fairly quickly as well, although sometimes those guests are only there for a cocktail or glass of wine, so their seats free up after a relatively short time. The full food menu is available at the bar, and I sat there on one of my visits.  

They have a full bar, with a number of Signature Cocktails (most about $14), from the classic Aperol Spritz to Beni's Limoncello Martini. The Aperol Spritz was a hefty-sized cocktail with a pleasant and well-balanced taste. The bourbon selections include choices such as Blanton's and Pappy Van Winkle. They also carry four beers, from Moretti to Heineken. 

The Wine list has recently been revised and expanded, and now they about 40 choices, mostly Italian, although with 9 choices from France, California, and Argentina. There are 14 choices available by the glass, mostly costing $12-$13, with one at $14 and one at $21. Most of the bottle prices range from $42-$99, with about 25% being more splurge choices, costing $110-$590. There are Italian whites, made from grapes such as Grechetto and Falanghina, and Italian reds, including Barbera, Barolo, Amarone, and more. When ordering wine here, I'd recommend you choose an Italian option. 

From the list, I've enjoyed two of their wines, including the 2015 Carus Gaudio Chianti Classico Gran Selezione ($59) and the Gianni Gagliardo Barbera d'Alba ($54). Both were delicious, interesting and went well with the various dishes. There are plenty of other wines on the list I want to explore in future visits.   

Each table receives a complimentary basket of fresh, warm and tasty bread and foccaia, with a small tub of olive oil and garlic cloves. What an excellent way to begin your dinner! I love warm bread, and each time I've dined here, I've smeared garlic and olive oil on my slices. 

The Food Menu has plenty of tasty and interesting options and there's usually a couple of Specials each night, such as an Appetizer and an Entree. You can begin with their Antipasti, which offers 10 choices  ($14-$32), such as a brick-oven Octopus, Beef Carpaccio or Prosciutto & Burrata Umbrian Style. The Insalate offers 4 choices ($13-$14), including Caesar Salad, Braised Beets Salad, Arugula Salad and a Soup of the Day. 

The Le Nostre Paste, their Pasta dishes, are all made in-house. You have 10 choices ($21-$26), including Spicy Rigatoni, Squid Ink Pasta with Polipo, and Gnocchi all Sorrentina. Their Pizza Napoletana is wood fired at 900 degrees, and there are 8 choices available, including 4 Red and 4 White Pizzas ($18-$24). Finally, their Secondi, main entrees, has 8 choices ($28-$47), such as Honey Lavender Duck, Tonno al Pepe Verde, and Pork Tovarisch. Based on the high quality and quantity of each dish, the prices are reasonable. 

As for Antipasti, the Crispy Shrimp ($18) is a new addition to their menu. The spicy shrimp are in fagioli all' uccelletto, a Tuscan dish of cannellini beans in a tomato sauce with fried sage and garlic. The plump and tender shrimp had a light and crispy batter, allowing the shrimp to shine and not be overwhelmed by the batter. The beans, sage and garlic were a nice addition, everything cooked perfectly. 

This dish seems to be a variation of their Prosciutto and Burrata Umbrian Style ($20), which has two pieces of puffy fried dough (without any sugar or cinnamon), topped by prosciutto and mortadella, with creamy burrata and a balsamic reduction. A delightful combination of textures and fresh flavors, and the fried dough was an intriguing variation. 

The Asparagus alla Bismark ($18) comprised an asparagus gratin, sunny side egg, toasted hazelnuts, and truffle in a cacio e Pepe sauce. This dish was a big hit at my table, with tender, thin asparagus, the crunch of the hazelnuts, and the subtle truffle and sauce. It was said to be one of their favorite asparagus dishes in a long time.  

An Antipasti Special one evening was a Raviolo al' Uovo, a huge ravioli, stuffed with ricotta and a runny egg yolk, in a brown butter sauce. The video above shows the ravioli being cut into, and the egg yolk seeping out. This was another delicious and well-balanced dish, with perfectly cooked pasta, lots of creamy ricotta, the rich taste of egg yolk and a delightful sauce. Highly recommended.

This is their wood-fired Pizza Oven, which fires at 900 degrees, and it's visible from certain vantages in the dining room. Such a compelling view!

I previously wrote about the Quatro Formagi Pizza, and now I'll discuss two more of their scrumptious pizzas. I'll note that in all of these pizzas, the crust is perfect: light, airy and crisp, with some slight charring. And they look beautiful too. Above is their Pepperoni Pizza ($20), with tomato, mozzarella, cacio, and olio santo. A tasty sauce, plenty of meaty and slightly spicy pepperoni, lots of cheese and that perfect crust. 

The Fico va a Parma Pizza ($24) is comprised of fig, mozzarella, walnuts, goat cheese, cacio, prosciutto, and arugula. In the first picture above, you can see the pizza before the prosciutto and arugula were added, showcasing the ingredients which are later covered up. The bottom picture shows the completed pizza, the prosciutto and arugula concealing the bottom toppings. Another absolutely delicious pizza, with sweet, salty, and slightly bitter flavors, enhanced by creamy, crunchy, and crisp textures,

This is one of the best places in the Woburn area for Neapolitan pizza, and it's well worth getting it even just for takeout. 

As for Pasta dishes, I previously wrote about the fantastic Tortellini all Norcina. Another recent addition to their menu is La Gricia ($24), made in a traditional Roman style, with house-made rigatoni, cacio e pepe, and guanciale. A relatively simple dish, but expertly created. The rigatoni were nicely al dente, and the guanciale was excellent, crispy, meaty and salty. There was a richness to the dish with the cheese and the fat of the guanciale. 

As for Secondi dishes, I previously wrote about the amazing Veal alla Petroniana. One of the Secondi Specials one evening was Swordfish ($46), parmesan crusted with a puttanesca sauce and accompanied by a chive risotto. The top photo is how the dish arrived at the table, and the bottom photo shows the swordfish with the removal of the greens, so you can see the puttanesca sauce. This was one of the juiciest swordfish dishes I've enjoyed in quite some time, enhanced by that beautiful and crispy crust and the tasty puttanesca. It was also quite a substantial piece of swordfish too. The creamy risotto was a fine accompaniment as well. Highly recommended.

The Pollo ai Funghi ($32) is essentially a variation of Chicken Marsala, with two good-sized and tender chicken escalopes, smothered in mushrooms, in a light Marsala sauce and accompanied by pasta. The Marsala sauce was mildly sweet and rich in flavor, and it gently coated everything, rather than  forming a pool beneath the chicken and pasta. Delicious, cooked perfectly, and a fine entree.   

The Dessert menu has 6 choices ($9-$13), from Tiramisu to Cannoli, and the desserts are generally made from scratch. Above, the photo shows two desserts, the Bombolone (warm donuts with chocolate chip gelato, served with English cream and chocolate sauce) and the Semifreddo (pistacchio and honey mousse, with mixed berry gelato, English cream, and brutti ma buoni biscotti). Both were quite tasty, especially the gelatos, and each dish was a pleasant mix of flavors and textures. The mousse was quite intriguing and delicious. 

This was a Special one evening, with a molten Chocolate cake (made from scratch), a mixed berry gelato, English cream, and more. I didn't get the exact name of this dish, but its taste is quite memorable. The cake was rich, creamy and chocolately, with bright red fruits in the gelato. A heavenly dessert. 

Service was excellent on all of my visits, the servers being genuinely personable and attentive, without being obtrusive. Although you have one primary server, the servers work as a well-oiled team. Chef Kurti, during the course of the evening while he's working in the kitchen or at the pizza oven, makes time to stop by numerous tables to check how the customers are enjoying their dinner. He's such a charming man, with a deep passion for Italian cuisine, and a great culinary talent. 

On each visit, I enjoyed an excellent, delicious and consistent dining experience. I'm so impressed with Il Ponte and it earns my highest recommendation. I'll be returning there again soon, and hope all my readers visit this restaurant as well. You won't be disappointed. 

Rant: Respect The Single Country Wine List

Consider this situation: You dine at a new Italian restaurant and while you peruse its wine list, you see that they only carry Italian wines. There is no California Chardonnay or Australian Shiraz, no New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Argentina Malbec. Instead, you see listings for Chianti and Prosecco, Franciacorta and Barolo, as well as wines with grapes unfamiliar to you, like Grillo, Frappato and Arneis. 

Does this situation bother you because you can't find the wines you usually enjoy? Does this situation bother you because you don't know much about many of those Italian wines? Or are you pleased with the wine menu, relishing the adventure of exploring the list, and potentially finding new favorite wines? I hope you answered positively to the third question. 

There are restaurants which choose to limit their wine list to a single country, to fit their cuisine, though locally, they are in the minority. A couple of my favorite restaurants which do this include Krasi (all Greek wine list) and A Tavola (all Italian wine list). However, many restaurants create wine lists which try to cater to diverse preferences, not willing to take the risk of a single country list. They fear offending some of their customers by not having certain types of wines. Their wine list might be predominately from one country, but there will be a percentage from at least several other countries. 

Is that really necessary?

I respect a restaurant willing to create a single country wine list, and I know I'm sure to find plenty of wines that will enjoy. I also savor the adventure of exploring such a list, trying wines that are new to me. Sure, wines from all over the world can pair well with Italian cuisine, but if an Italian restaurant only wants to offer Italian wines to pair with their cuisine, I am fully supportive of their desire. It's a way to expose more consumers to the diversity and wonders of Italian wine, to helping to broaden their palates. 

You wouldn't go to an Italian restaurant and expect to find Australian meat pies or Southern-style fried chicken, so why expect to find wines from places other than Italy? You are going for the experience of Italian cuisine, and wine is actually food. Thus, it makes sense that Italian wine is served as part of the Italian cuisine. This applies to any ethnic restaurant which chooses to limit its wine list to the country of its cuisine. 

For many restaurants though, it's a matter of money. There are some picky and demanding consumers who would object to such a singular wine list. They are too set in their ways, unwilling to be open to new wines, and only want to be able to get their California Chardonnay, or other vinous preference, no matter what restaurant where they dine. If a restaurant has a single country wine list, they won't attract these type of customers, and that could have negative economic consequences for the restaurant. 

It's also this type of picky consumer who demands that every Italian restaurant must serve Chicken Parmigiana, even if that Italian restaurant desires to only serve a specific regional cuisine which wouldn't serve such a dish, or simply doesn't want to serve that dish. Those picky consumers won't patronize an Italian restaurant which doesn't serve their favorite dish. 

We need to give our support to those restaurant brave enough to have a single country wine list, to dine at such restaurants and enjoy their wine choices. Consumers need to be more open to wines that are outside their usual preference. They shouldn't demand that every restaurant conform to their own wine preferences. Be open to the joys of other wines. The sommelier, wine director, or servers at these restaurants can help you select wines that are similar to your preferences, and will appeal to you.  

What are your thoughts on restaurants with single country wine lists? Do you have any favorite restaurants with such a list?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. For this edition, I'll be mentioning some spots for Valentine's Day celebrations. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
******************************************************
1) Chef Kevin HanQing alongside The Red 8 and Encore Boston Harbor teams invite guests to join them for a special Lunar New Year feast on Saturday, February 10th. Encore Boston Harbor’s signature, authentic Chinese restaurant Red 8, will be offering a prix fixe, Lunar New Year feast from Saturday, February 10th through Saturday, February 24th. 

Available in addition to Red 8’s regular menu, Chef Yuan's multi-course Lunar New Year menu will be available for $148 per person and feature dishes including: 

Roasted duck & pork rib
Seaweed salad
Fish maw & seafood soup
Half garlic steamed lobster
Yi mein noodles with mushroom
Pan-fried sweet nian gao

For more information, or to make a reservation, please visit HERE.

2) On Sunday, February 18th, from Noon to 5pm, Rochambeau presents Brunch, Burlesque, and Beats.  The French fête will treat guest to a brunch spread alongside a live DJ spinning fun beats and captivating burlesque performances by talented burlesque artist, Mistress Manifest. Brunch tickets cost $40 and can be purchased HERE.

3) South Street Diner, one of Boston’s longest running late-night restaurants is hosting an all-day Mardi Gras celebration in honor of “Fat Tuesday” – the last day of the Carnival season. Owner Sol Sidell is recreating that authentic New Orleans feel inside the walls of the late-night restaurant on Tuesday, February 13th from 11 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Come on down and enjoy an all-you-can-eat jambalaya feast for $9.95 along with other Louisiana-style Mardi Gras items including signature Beads & Beignets. You can wash down the southern cuisine with the late-night restaurant’s very own Voodoo Punch for $9 per glass.

The atmosphere will make you feel like you’re right on Bourbon Street. The staff will be handing out Mardi Gras beads and dressed head to toe in traditional Mardi Gras garb. Come join South Street Diner and groove into the night with the New Orleans Zydeco music bumping from the jukebox.

4) Crane River's Cheese Club is ‘Game Day’ ready with their newest prepared food options for your Super Bowl celebrations.  Created by Chef Poe and Chef Guzman, the following signature dishes are packaged for customers’ football delight. 

• Poe Pizza, a 10-inch cheese pizza featuring a tantalizing blend of extra sauce and extra cheese.
• Korean Chicken Wings:  Each wing is a harmony of sweet, spicy, and savory flavors, with chile, citrus, sesame & tamari marinated gochujang type oil, and spicy ranch dipping sauce. Crispy on the outside, juicy on the inside. 
• Wild Boar Meatballs: These meatballs are a twist on a classic favorite with spicy ginger and a cilantro broth. 
• Crane Rivers Pork Dumplings: with ginger, garlic & cabbage, and house-made sriracha & soy broth. 

5) Join Forcella for a Campania Wine Dinner on Thursday, February 22nd at either 5:00 p.m. or 7:15 p.m. Indulge in a five-course meal with wine pairing to experience a Taste of Italy. The variety of dinner dishes include seafood, steak and pasta all paired with Italian wines to compliment the flavors. 

Menu
Polpetti Affogate (Tomato Braised Baby Octopus, Garlic, Chili, Warm bread)
2021 Fiano Beneventano
Beef Carpaccio (Tenderloin, Roasted Garlic Aioli, Oven Dried Tomatoes, Toasted Hazelnuts)
2020 Cabernet Sauvignon “Rython”
Mushroom Risotto (Roasted Mushrooms, Black Winter Truffle, Grana)
2019 Aglianico del Taburno Riserva “Iovi Tonant”
Pan Roasted Swordfish (Carrot Puree, Black Lentils, Pickled Beet Sauce, Toasted Pistachios)
Sparkling Aglianico “Prestige Rose”
Short Rib (Creamy Potatoes, Broccoli Rabe, Montepulciano Demi)
2019 Aglianico Appasito “Kapnios”

Cost: The Campania Wine Dinner costs $125 per adult. Guests must be at least 21 years old with a proper ID to attend. Reservations must be made online in advance as there is limited seating available.