Rant: Respect The Single Country Wine List

Consider this situation: You dine at a new Italian restaurant and while you peruse its wine list, you see that they only carry Italian wines. There is no California Chardonnay or Australian Shiraz, no New Zealand Sauvignon Blanc or Argentina Malbec. Instead, you see listings for Chianti and Prosecco, Franciacorta and Barolo, as well as wines with grapes unfamiliar to you, like Grillo, Frappato and Arneis. 

Does this situation bother you because you can't find the wines you usually enjoy? Does this situation bother you because you don't know much about many of those Italian wines? Or are you pleased with the wine menu, relishing the adventure of exploring the list, and potentially finding new favorite wines? I hope you answered positively to the third question. 

There are restaurants which choose to limit their wine list to a single country, to fit their cuisine, though locally, they are in the minority. A couple of my favorite restaurants which do this include Krasi (all Greek wine list) and A Tavola (all Italian wine list). However, many restaurants create wine lists which try to cater to diverse preferences, not willing to take the risk of a single country list. They fear offending some of their customers by not having certain types of wines. Their wine list might be predominately from one country, but there will be a percentage from at least several other countries. 

Is that really necessary?

I respect a restaurant willing to create a single country wine list, and I know I'm sure to find plenty of wines that will enjoy. I also savor the adventure of exploring such a list, trying wines that are new to me. Sure, wines from all over the world can pair well with Italian cuisine, but if an Italian restaurant only wants to offer Italian wines to pair with their cuisine, I am fully supportive of their desire. It's a way to expose more consumers to the diversity and wonders of Italian wine, to helping to broaden their palates. 

You wouldn't go to an Italian restaurant and expect to find Australian meat pies or Southern-style fried chicken, so why expect to find wines from places other than Italy? You are going for the experience of Italian cuisine, and wine is actually food. Thus, it makes sense that Italian wine is served as part of the Italian cuisine. This applies to any ethnic restaurant which chooses to limit its wine list to the country of its cuisine. 

For many restaurants though, it's a matter of money. There are some picky and demanding consumers who would object to such a singular wine list. They are too set in their ways, unwilling to be open to new wines, and only want to be able to get their California Chardonnay, or other vinous preference, no matter what restaurant where they dine. If a restaurant has a single country wine list, they won't attract these type of customers, and that could have negative economic consequences for the restaurant. 

It's also this type of picky consumer who demands that every Italian restaurant must serve Chicken Parmigiana, even if that Italian restaurant desires to only serve a specific regional cuisine which wouldn't serve such a dish, or simply doesn't want to serve that dish. Those picky consumers won't patronize an Italian restaurant which doesn't serve their favorite dish. 

We need to give our support to those restaurant brave enough to have a single country wine list, to dine at such restaurants and enjoy their wine choices. Consumers need to be more open to wines that are outside their usual preference. They shouldn't demand that every restaurant conform to their own wine preferences. Be open to the joys of other wines. The sommelier, wine director, or servers at these restaurants can help you select wines that are similar to your preferences, and will appeal to you.  

What are your thoughts on restaurants with single country wine lists? Do you have any favorite restaurants with such a list?

Rant: A Lazy Restaurant Wine List

Last week, I dined at a relatively new local restaurant, and very much enjoyed the food. I'm looking forward to dining there again soon, to try more of their dishes. However, I was dismayed by one aspect of the restaurant: their wine list. 

The restaurant offers some intriguing cocktails, some made with more unusual ingredients, while their beer list has some good craft beers. On the other hand, their wine list is generic, and fails to mention even a single producer. Instead, for red wine options, the menu simply mentions "Merlot Red" and "Malbec Red." For white wine, there's "Chardonnay White" and "Pinot Grigio White." The menu also lists "Rosé" and "Brut." Why don't they list the producer of these wines?

Every one of these wines is priced at $8 a glass, and thus are likely very inexpensive wines, probably costing less than $10 a bottle at retail. They are probably also value brands, which producer millions of bottles of generic plonk. I very much doubt that wine lovers would find any of these wines of interest. And I don't understand why their wine list is so uninspired, when their cocktails and beers show some inspiration. 

It's a lazy wine list, taking the least amount of thought to compose, and it diminishes the restaurant, especially considering how much attention was paid to the other aspects of the restaurant. At the very least, they should have listed the producers of the wine. However, it wouldn't have taken much more effort to choose several interesting, good value wines, rather than the generic plonk they do sell. Even if the restaurant owners knew little of wine, they could have asked the distributor for better options. 

I've seen other restaurants before with similar lazy wine lists, failing to provide even the name of the producer. Sometimes, I have also seen options of "Hot" and "Cold" Sake, which again fail to mention the name of the producer. You know that these mystery wines are cheap, low quality wines. Even when their food and cocktails are tasty and interesting, a lazy wine list adversely affects the overall rating of the restaurant. 

Restaurant owners with lazy wine lists: Take a little time to improve your wine lists, and enhance your restaurant's overall reputation. 

Rant: Restaurants & Wine Lists

For some people, a restaurant's wine list can be intimidating, especially if it's lengthy, so they will tend to select wines familiar to them. For adventurous wine lovers, a restaurant's wine list can be exciting and intriguing, offering a plethora of interesting choices. Unfortunately, not all wine lists are accurate, and that can be frustrating for the consumer. I encountered such a situation recently, and it was certainly frustrating to me. 

Initially, I was intrigued by the wine list, which was predominantly French, but with other interesting choices as well. I selected a wine which I expected would pair well with our dinner. When the wine was brought to the table, and I examined the label, I discovered that the vintage differed from the wine list, that is was from 2019 rather than 2016. Obviously, the server hadn't checked the vintage before bringing it to our table. With this wine, I believed the vintage mattered, so I rejected the wine.

I then selected a different wine, a similar style to the first, but was later told that it was not available, and they were awaiting a delivery. Strike 2.

After reviewing the wine list again, I chose a different wine. When it was presented at the table, I found that once again, the vintage was different from the wine list, although this time, the list stated it was 2019 but the wine brought to the table was from 2017. The server had once again not checked the vintage before bringing the wine to the table. Strike 3. 

I accepted this wine, of which I was familiar, and it was a delicious choice. It was also reasonably priced. 

Wine lists should be as accurate as possible, and I understand the occasional error, which might be a typo or just a simple mistake. However, when I select three different wines, and one isn't available and two have the wrong vintage, then that wine list has issues. This wine list had been recently updated, with specific recommended options for the dinner, so I would have expected it to be more accurate. If it had been an older list, which hadn't been updated in some time, maybe I would have expected less. 

One more issue dismayed me about their wine service. We ordered a second bottle of the third wine, and after our server removed the cork, the server poured the wine directly into our glasses, which still had a small bit of wine from the first bottle. The server did not allow us to taste this bottle, to ensure it was good. It might have been the same wine as our first, but it was a different bottle and one never knows what bottle variation you might find. It might have been corked for all we knew. Fortunately, there weren't any problems with the second bottle.

I hope restaurants take more care with their wine lists, to ensure they are as accurate as possible. 

2021: Favorite Wine, Spirit, Sake & Drink-Related Items

What were some of my favorite Wine, Spirit, Sake & Drink-related related items of the past year?

As 2021 has arrived, it's time to reflect upon the past year, to remember and savor pleasant memories. I've already posted a few of my annual Favorite Lists, including My Favorite Restaurants, My Favorite Food-Related Items, Top Ten Wines Under $20. and Top Ten Wines Over $20. It's time now to cover my Favorite Wine, Spirit, Sake and Drink-Related Items. . 

This is certainly not a complete list but it is more a sampling of compelling and memorable matters I have experienced and posted about over the past year. This is also a purely subjective list, based on my own preferences, and makes no claims about being the "best" of anything. But all of the items here have earned my strong recommendations and I hope you will enjoy them as well. For more wine related items, you can just search my blog posts for the past year.

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Favorite Discount Wine Stores: Consumers always want bargains, excellent value wines which won't stretch their wallets. You can buy the cheap, mass-produced commercial wines which can be found in almost any wine store or, instead, you can seek out excellent, value wines which put to shame those cheap wines. Certain discount wine stores provide not only excellent prices but also an interesting selection and good service. I want to highlight two such stores which continue, year after year, to do an especially good job, places where I go to seek bargains: Bin Ends in Braintree & Needham, and Rapid Liquors in Stoneham. Shop at any of those stores and you won't be disappointed.

Favorite Wine Stores: This is a small list of wine stores which consistently impress me with their selection and service. Each shop is worthy of your patronage and wine lovers should make the effort to visit these places if you have not done so yet.

Malden Center Fine Wines in Malden
Lower Falls Wine Company in Newton Lower Falls
Wine-Sense in Andover
Wine Press in Brookline and Wine Press in the Fenway
Streetcar Wines in Jamaica Plain
Marty's Fine Wines in Newton

Bauer's Wine & Spirits in Boston

Croatian Premium Wine in Boston (Only an online store, but you can get their wines delivered to you, with a great selection of Croatian wines)

Favorite Vermont Wine Store: The Meditrina Wine & Cheese shop, in Chester, Vermont, is an excellent place with a very compelling beer and wine selection, and some gourmet foods. It's a small store, but there's plenty of food and drink available, filling the shelves floor to ceiling, and I bet you'll find plenty to tantalize you, including plenty of natural wines, small production wines, and other intriguing wines, They have wine at all price points and any wine lover will find much of interest. This well-curated selection would be impressive wherever it was located. The shop also conducts regular wine tastings. 

Favorite Restaurant Wine Lists: I want to highlight a few restaurants which this year offered some intriguing and excellent wine lists. 

     Krasi: With the second largest Greek wine list in the country, you'll find almost any type of Greek wine you could desire. There are so many excellent options that you might have difficulty selecting a bottle, but the sommelier and staff can help guide you through the intriguing list. Expand your palate and explore the wonders of Greek wine.

    Nightshade Noodle Bar: Their eclectic, well-curated wine list has primarily more natural wines from small producers. There's plenty of interesting options available, and the wines pair very well with their delicious cuisine. 

     Pammy's: Their wine list is mainly Italian but with some other unique wines, from places including Vermont, Oregon, Washington and California. Plenty of excellent options, including a number of Orange wines, and plenty of Nebbiolo as well. 

Favorite Cocktail Spots: 

     Committee: Their Ultra Crushable Retsina Cocktail impressed me this year. It's rare to find Retsina in a cocktail, and it was made with Stray Dog Wild Gin, Flower Tea and Lime. This cocktail was well balanced, tasty and refreshing, with subtle pine notes beside a dominant herbal melange, mild tea notes, and a touch of sour from the limes. Their Frozen Mastjito was also excellent, a creative and tasty frozen drink, perfect for summer. 

     Nightshade Noodle Bar: I enjoyed numerous tasty cocktails here, including the Nightshade Mai Tai,  Saigon Cigar Club, the Nha Trang Beach (with Mezcal), and Coconut Margarita. And on their dessert list, I loved the Thai Tea, a small Thai Tea Mai Tai. The cocktails are creative, well-balanced and delicious. 

Favorite Spirit Class: With the pandemic, there have been far fewer wine and spirit classes. However, I was able to attend A Baijiu Class with Derek Sandhaus. Baijiu is under-appreciated in the U.S. so it's cool to see at least a few people promoting it in the local area. Derek is personable, down to earth, passionate and very knowledgeable. We tasted four Baijiu and a Baijiu cocktail, while listening to all Derek had to teach us. Fun, tasty and informative. 

Favorite High-End Baijiu: The Luzhou Laojiao Guajiao National Cellar ($220/500ml) is produced in a very traditional manner, aged for at least 5 years in natural caves, and is 104 proof. The nose is complex, with a find blend of herbal and fruity notes, and on the palate it's equally complex. You'll find tropical and stone fruit flavors, complemented by herbal and peppery elements with a hint of anise. It's also silky smooth with a lengthy, pleasing finish, perfect for slowly sipping, enjoying each complex and delicious taste. Taste this Baijiu and I'm sure you'll become a Baijiu convert. 

Favorite Value Baijiu: For a less expensive choice, the Ming River Baijiu ($37.99) is an excellent option. It's made from locally harvested red sorghum grain and pure well water. It is fermented in a traditional mudpit, using naturally harvested yeast, and then distilled in small batches in a pot still. It is then commonly aged for up to two years before the final blending. On the nose, the Baijiu is fruity and appealing, without any aromas which would turn off someone. It isn't the off-putting aroma of which some people assume all Baijiu possess. When you taste it, there's an intriguing melange of flavors, with prominent tropical fruit flavors, especially some pineapple, with an undercurrent of anise and pepper and some floral notes. It possesses a lengthy finish, a mild sweetness, and there's an umami element as well. Well balanced and complex, this Baijiu is delicious on its own, but also is very versatile for cocktails.

Favorite Baijiu Cocktail: For World Baijiu Day, Sumiao Hunan Kitchen, in Cambridge, created the Peppermelon Baijiu cocktail. It ws made with Baijiu, fresh Watermelon juice, black pepper honey syrup, and lemon juice. It has a mild sweetness, a rich watermelon flavor, a subtle peppery kick and the Baijiu came out primarily on the finish. It was nicely balanced, perfect for the summer, and the components worked very well with the Baijiu. And the peppered piece of watermelon on the rim of the glass was a nice treat once the cocktail was gone.

Favorite Vermouth: Maybe the first modern Japanese version of Vermouth, the Oka Brand Japanese Bermutto is fascinating and delicious. It is made from a base of Junmai Sake, which is fortified with Kuma Shochu, a 100% rice Shochu, and has an 18% ABV. Four botanicals are added to it, including Yuzu, Kabosu, Sansho & Yomogi. Tasting it on its own, the Bermutto has a prominent yuzu/citrus aroma, with a subtle herbal accent, and on the palate, it is dry and the yuzu/citrus remains the main flavor, with hints of herbal notes and a mildly bitter finish from the Yomogi. That bitterness is much more restrained than the wormwood taste found in many other vermouths. This is excellent in cocktails.

Favorite Gin: After experiencing Stray Dog Wild Gin, a Greek gin, at Committee, I knew I needed to add it to my home bar. The gin is made with a number of wild-foraged botanicals as well as other ingredients, including sage, fennel seed, rosemary, mastiha, bay leaf, lemon, orange, cardamom, juniper, and coriander. They also use mountain spring water. It's hand-crafted in small batches using traditional copper pot stills. On the nose, there are definite notes of juniper, although it's more subdued than many other gins. You'll also find other herbal notes mixing with the juniper. On the palate, it's a smooth and compelling gin, with a wonderful melange of herbal and citrus flavors, where the juniper is but one aspect of the whole. It is well-balanced, with all of the ingredients working harmoniously together. Each sip seems to bring something different to your mouth, and it's easy to slowly sip a glass and savor its complexity.

Favorite Bouborn Cream: The Black Button Bespoke Bourbon Cream, made in New York, is made with their Bourbon, fresh farm cream, and a little caramel. It's absolutely delicious, with a rich, creamy mouthfeel and delicious and complex notes of cream, caramel, vanilla and spices. It has a nice freshness to it that some other cream liqueurs lack. This Bourbon Cream is going to appeal to many people, and is perfect on its own, although you could make cocktails with it as well. 

Favorite Canned Cocktail: Also from Black Button distillery, the CanBee Cocktails Bee's Knees is their first canned cocktail, using the Bee's Knees recipe that was likely invented during Prohibition. This canned cocktail is made with their own Citrus-Forward Gun, real lemon juice, and farm-fresh honey (made from their own bees), without any artificial flavors or colors. I found it to be light, refreshing and tasty. It wasn't overly sweet or sour, but possessed a nice balance of flavors, citrus and botanicals. And with its lower alcohol, you can enjoy a few on a nice summer day, at the beach, on a boat, etc. There's a light effervescence to the cocktail, and it would work well with food too, especially seafood. 

Favorite Cider: The Shacksbury Whistle-Pig Lo-Ball is a limited edition, a "barrel aged highball cider," at 4.8% ABV, which was aged in WhistlePig's Vermont white oak barrels that were used to age their FarmStock whiskey. The Lo-Ball is crisp and dry, quite refreshing, and possesses a rich apple flavor complemented with spicy notes and a subtle hint of whiskey. It was well balanced, with a pleasing finish, and I was extremely glad that I bought it. With its low alcohol content, you can easily have a few cans in a fine summer day, or a crisp autumn afternoon. It is certainly delicious on its own, but could also pair well with a variety of foods.

Favorite Wine/Spirit/Cocktail Histories: This year, I wrote four fascinating historical articles which touched on spirits and/or cocktails. 

     The Birth & Evolution of the Mai Tai

     Franciacorta: A Sparkling Treasure of Lombardy (Part 1)

     A Short History of Franciacorta in the U.S. (Part 2)

     Moonshine? A History of Sotol in the U.S. (New edition)

Favorite Honjozo Sake: The Yuki Otoko "Yeti" Honjozo  was made with Gohyakumangoku and Koishibuki rice, polished down to 65%, a bit more than what is required to be a Honjozo. The Sake also has a 15.5% ABV, a SMV +8, and an Acidity of 1.2. It is said to be "Dry, light and clean like melting snow."It also can be served chilled, warmed, or at room temperature. I found it to be a clean and refreshing Sake, with a savory kick of umami. Subtle melon and citrus flavors with the umami taking center stage. This would be excellent for seafood, mushrooms, or truffle dishes. The umami of the Sake makes it even more food friendly. Or you can just enjoy this Sake on its own, slowly sipped and enjoyed.

Favorite Sake Pairing: Cheese and Sake isn't a traditional pairing, but it works very well, with different Sakes pairing well with a variety of different cheeses. This past year, I tried Pairing Feta & Sake: Greece Meets Japan. I had three different Feta cheeses, including the Dodoni (a sheep's milk, from the southern region of Greece), Arahova Barrel (a sheep's milk, barrel aged), and the Olympus (also sheep's milk). I also have two Sakes, the Koshi No Kanbai Sai "Blue River" Junmai Ginjo and  the Fukucho "Seaside" Junmai Sparkling Sake. It was a fun and enlightening tasting, and the Sparkling Sake was the most compelling Sake for the Feta. 

Favorite Sake Educational Resource: For some of the latest and most fascinating current information about Sake, you need to read the Sake Industry News by John Gauntner. Each twice-monthly issue contains numerous intriguing news articles, sure to interest all Sake lovers, and with information you would be hard pressed to find elsewhere. I've learned plenty from this newsletter and eagerly look forward to each new issue. There's not enough Sake news available out there, and Gauntner is filling a much-needed niche. If you're interested in Sake, you definitely should subscribe. 

What were some of your favorite Wine, Spirit, Sake & Drink-related items this year?

Rant: Wrong Vintage? How Do You Handle It?

Recently, while dining out at a local restaurant, I ordered a bottle of wine with dinner. I knew little about the wine but was intrigued by what I did know. It's also a restaurant which I know has an excellent wine list, so I felt relatively secure in choosing a wine unfamiliar to myself. 

When the bottle was presented at my table, I examined the label, which I generally do, to ensure it was the correct wine. It's rare to receive the wrong wine at a restaurant, but it has happened to me in the past so I always check, just in case. Do you examine the wine label when it is brought to your table?

In this case, everything was correct except for the vintage. Instead of the 2018, listed on their menu, I was brought the 2017. I mentioned this to the server, who simply said that this was the wine they had, and wasn't aware that the wine on the menu had a different vintage.

What should you do if you receive the wrong vintage wine? Does the vintage even matter? Would you ask the server the differences in the vintages? Should the restaurant charge you more or less because it is a different vintage? What should the restaurant's response be if they offer you a different vintage?

In general, I don't make a big deal about the matter and will usually just accept the different vintage However, vintage can definitely matter so it can be a significant issue to receive a different vintage. It helps if you know the wine and how it differs with various vintages. For the wine I ordered, I didn't know anything about differences between the vintages. However, when I did some later research, I found there was actually a major difference between the 2017 and 2018 vintages. 

The producer instituted some major changes to their fermentation protocols in 2018, which greatly changed the style of the wine. So, the 2017 and 2018 vintages are much different wines. If you ordered the 2018 from the menu, and understood which style it represented, what would you do if you received the 2017 instead? You might refuse the wine at that point, as it wasn't what you desired and expected. 

How do you handle receiving the wrong vintage wine at a restaurant? 

Rant: Secret Wine Lists

Many people area aware of restaurants, especially chains, which have secret menu items. Consider the famed Animal Burger at In-and-Out Burger. You'll also find secret items at McDonalds, Burger King, Taco Bell, Starbuck's, Five Guys, KFC, and plenty more. A quick Google search will turn up all of that information. There are higher end restaurants which also offer secret menu items, though it might take a little more effort to Google them.

However, are there secret wine lists? 

Yes, they exist but they seem to be much more undercover, and you may not find them listed online anywhere. You often have to receive information about the existence of these secret wines from some insider. Or, you could ask a restaurant's sommelier or server whether such a list exists. Why are these lists so much more secret than the food items? Are wine lovers just more secretive than food lovers? 

This past weekend, I dined at a Cape Cod restaurant with a rather ordinary wine list, nothing truly exciting. At such a restaurant, I might have just ordered cocktails with dinner, especially as they had a couple compelling cocktails listed on their menu. However, prior to my trek to the Cape, I received a valuable tip from an insider about this restaurant, mentioning that they had some intriguing wines off their menu. All I had to do was ask them about such wines. 

I certainly wan't expecting a secret wine list at this restaurant, and it wasn't an actual printed list. Instead, I spoke to the server, telling him what type of wines I liked, as well as a price range, and he brought out a couple of choices, including a delicious Portuguese wine which I selected. If I didn't want either of the two wines he brought out, I suspected he would have brought more choices. These two wines were definitely much more interesting than what was on their ordinary wine list. And the wine made our dining experience even better. 

Maybe I need to ask more often about "secret" wine lists at the restaurants where I dine. It's a simple question to ask and it could lead to surprising vinous pleasures. 

Do you know of any restaurants with secret wine lists? Do any restaurants want to tell us about their own secret wine lists?

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Lynsey Robbie

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Lynsey Robbie is the General Manager and Wine Buyer at A Tavola in Winchester. With a new owner and chef, Joe Carli, A Tavola is taking the next step in its evolution and I've recently raved about my positive experiences at this restaurant. I've also noted that A Tavola is a "brave restaurant," having taken a bold stance with their wine list, choosing to restrict their wines to a single country, Italy, which is the country of their chosen cuisine.

Lynsey Robbie first started managing the wine list at A Tavola about eight and a half years ago when the restaurant was first opening. She states it's been such a fun challenge to learn more about Italian wine and curate a list that guests can appreciate. In addition, she mentioned that it makes her so happy to see the guests enjoying the wine and food. Beyond working at A Tavola, Lynsey also loves cooking, dining-out, reading, drawing (skill at least at first grade level ) hiking, running, and attempted gardening (usually killing her plants).

Now, onto the interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
I am the General Manager. Wine buying is one of my main responsibilities (as well as one of the most fun). I would call myself Sommelier only if I passed a certification exam.

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
We have an exclusively Italian wine list that aims to touch on as many of Italy’s regions as possible to showcase the variety of quality Italian wine available.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
For myself, it is a way to learn more about Italian food, wine and culture. It is amazing how much can be learned by studying the history of wine, from realizing how major events (i.e. wars, prohibition, phylloxera, etc) have shaped the industry; to how the everyday life in a small village dictates what people eat and drink. It’s all so fun to learn about. For my staff, I want them to have the opportunity to learn about some interesting as well as staple Italian wines. For my guests, I hope they are having fun trying some different wines. Italy has so many grapes and styles to offer.

How often does the wine list change?
Very frequently, there are some staples you can always find and some wines are here and gone in a few days.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
We are a small restaurant with limited space for storing wine. By changing frequently, I hope to bring in everything to taste and get to know. I would say at any given time, we are able to match a wine for whatever our guest happens to be looking for.

How do you learn about new wines?
I read books about wine, I have taken classes on wines, my wine reps are great at bringing in new and interesting things, and I taste plenty of wine, of course! Lots of wine shops have great weekly or monthly tastings. Plus, cooking and pairing at home.

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?  
“Do you have something like....” if a guest doesn’t recognize what their looking for they just ask what’s most like a Sauvignon Blanc, Cabernet, etc.

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
The list is well received, though I am fortunate that the staff is knowledgeable. It’s important to have accurate descriptions and be able to help with food pairing. I feel the guests have the best experience when they can be guided with the wines a bit. Italian wines can be confusing and sticking with one country can seem limiting. There are a lot of world renowned wines that we don’t offer (Sancerre, Port, Champagne, Bordeaux, etc) all which get asked for by name, so it's up to us to guide the guest on the style their looking for.

Why do you use primarily stemless glassware for wine service? 
We use the stemless mainly because they break less and have stemmed glasses for anyone who prefers it or for nicer bottles of wine.

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
Making sure the list stays approachable and doesn’t become esoteric. For me its so fun to learn about historic and lesser known grapes, but I want to make sure that translates into something fun for my guests. I don’t want selecting a wine for dinner to be daunting.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
--2017 Masseria Frattasi, Capri Rosso. It's from the little Volcanic Island of Capri, off the coast of Campagna. 80% Aglianico & Piedirosso and 20% indigenous varieties of Naples. Only 600 bottles are made each year. It is completely harvested and de-stemmed by hand. Spends 6-8 months in chestnut barriques. I find it to be powerful as well as elegant. A really great hearty winter wine.
--2011 Marco Bonfante “Albarone” Albarossa. It is a hybrid of Nebbiolo and Barbera (the 2 most popular wines of Piedmont), that is then produced appassimento style (grapes go through a drying process before being pressed and fermented). It has the big tannic structure of Nebbiolo with the friendly fruitiness of the Barbera and intense concentrated flavors often associated with Amarone. It’s a fun one for sure.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
Prosecco!! Bubbles of any kind are a personal favorite of mine. As a stand alone beverage or with antipasti or french fries or dessert or cheese. Also, I love Aperol Spritz, the refreshing & classic cocktail of Venice that features Prosecco.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
We are having a 5 course Sangiovese dinner coming up April 2nd. I am really excited to show how very different the same grape can present itself.

Rant: Brave Restaurants & Their Wine Lists

Kudos to two courageous restaurants, A Tavola and Krasi, both which have taken a bold stance with their wine lists. They have chosen to restrict their wines to a single country, the country of their chosen cuisine.

Would you expect to find a Neapolitan pizza on the menu at a Sushi restaurant? No. Would you expect to find a cheeseburger on the menu of a Spanish tapas restaurant? No. In a similar vein, diners shouldn't expect that a restaurant, concentrating on a specific cuisine, will carry wines from all regions of the world. If a restaurant wants to specialize in the wines of a single country, it should be embraced for doing so. Diners should respect that decision and be willing to select wines from that list, even if they aren't familiar with those wines.

Restaurants which go this route spend lots of time carefully curating their wine list, selecting a diverse selection of wines which should appeal to all wine preferences. If a diner likes a certain flavor profile, the restaurant staff should be able to recommend wines which would appeal to that diner. A Tavola has an all-Italian wine list, and although it's relatively small, there's still plenty of diverse choices. Krasi has an all-Greek wine list, of over 150 selections, and there's definitely a wine for everyone.

This is a philosophical choice by the restaurant, an effort to promote a certain culinary tradition and region. We should respect such a choice. Such a wine list a great way to expand your palate, to broaden your vinous experiences. You might even find some new favorites, intriguing unique grapes or wine styles. You might not find some of these wines at any other restaurant, so you have the opportunity to explore something new. Personally, I was very excited to see the Greek wine list at Krasi, eager to sample wines new to me. And at A Tavola, I've already tasted a few wines new to me as well.

However, not all restaurants choose to limit their wine menu to a single country. I certainly understand the reasons why some do so, especially their desire to cater to the desires of their customers. It can be a financial decision, worries that some customers won't dine at their restaurant if they can't find the wines they commonly drink. Some people are too set in their ways, and want to be able to get their California Chardonnay no matter what restaurant where they dine. That is a valid concern to some degree, and as restaurants are businesses, they need to do what they can to survive. That is their choice, but it's not the only available choice.

We should to give our support to those restaurants brave enough to have a single-country wine list, to dine at such restaurants and enjoy their wine choices. We should be open to experiencing new wines, and not limit ourselves to the same old wines. Please dine at A Tavola and Krasi and thank them for the courage in presenting a single-country wine list.

Do you have any favorite restaurants with such a wine list limited to a single country?

Rant: National Recognition Yet Uneven Service

Last week, I stopped for a quick bite and a glass of wine at a Boston restaurant which has received national attention this year for their wine program. This was actually my first visit, which was long overdue, to this spot. The food was delicious and the wine list was impressive but the lackluster service was a fail.

Awards and accolades aren't a guarantee that you'll have a positive restaurant experience.

I sat at the bar and during the time I was there, I was able to observe and compare the actions of two different servers, the one who served me and another who later served others at the bar. There was an obvious and significant difference in the attitudes and actions of the two servers. One well represented the restaurant and its concept, while the other failed as an advocate, evidencing a lack of passion.

A food menu and wine list were placed in front of me without real comment. Then, my server left to let me peruse the two menus. When the other server tended to his guests, he was much more communicative. First, he explained their wine program, noting some of the unique aspects of it. Second, he also detailed the day's food specials, which weren't listed on the menu.

My server didn't mention either of these items to me. He left me in the dark, limiting my choices because of my ignorance. He did the bare minimum, failing to rise to the occasion like the second server.

My experience would have been different, and more positive, if I had the second server. I might also have chosen different food and wine, based on that new information. When you have a more unique wine program, you need to ensure that your customers understand it. And that means your servers need to be proactive, to inform customers about it and not put the burden on the customer to have to ask about it. The second server did an excellent and seamless job of discussing the wine list and food specials. You felt his passion. And that is what will lead to positive reviews and bring in more customers.

Despite my experience, I'll likely return to the restaurant, hoping my experience was more an aberration.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Leo Keka

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Leo Keka is the owner of Alba Prime Steak + Seafood and Zef Cicchetti & Raw Bar in Quincy Center. A native of Albania, he fled the impoverished former communist nation in 1990 by swimming across a lake to a refugee camp in Montenegro, before finding his way to the United States. Keka, unable to speak English at the time, landed his first job in the industry when he was hired as a dishwasher by fellow Albanian-American and celebrated restaurateur Anthony Athanas of late Boston culinary landmark Anthony’s Pier 4. Keka soon became a server, displayed a natural knack for hospitality and quickly worked his way up through management at both Legal Sea Foods and Grill 23 & Bar, before opening his fine-dining Quincy Center restaurant Alba in 2001. Such an inspiring story!

Now, onto the interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
I’m the owner of Alba but also the wine director. Wine is one of my great passions and I love that part of my job. We have a great, great staff that is very knowledgeable about wine and about our wines in particular. But at the end of the day, even as the owner, I pick most of the wines on our list and I’m proud to do so.

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
Our wine list is focused on American/California cabernets and Oregon pinot noirs with a heavy selection of Italian reds: super Tuscans, Barolos, Brunellos. Those big hearty Italian red wines. We have some great options and sell a lot of them.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
Our goal at Alba is to offer a great bottle of wine at a great price, no matter the guest’s taste or budget. I think a lot of wines are subject to over-pricing in restaurants. We try to avoid that. We try to come in at a very fair price for our guests. Our wine list I believe rivals that of any of the top steakhouses or restaurants in Boston. But our prices are much more affordable.

A lot of the reason why is for me very personal. We grew up very poor in Albania. We didn’t have great restaurants. We had very few material pleasures. One of those pleasures was wine. I remember one Christmas night when I was about 15 my mother brought home this giant 18-liter bottle of red wine that my grandparents had made. It was amazing.

I was hooked on that taste and on the celebratory aspect of drinking wine. I loved it from the beginning. My dad had tried before to get me to drink beer. I didn’t like it. I still don’t. But I’ve loved wine from that moment I first tasted it. I still remember drinking that bottle of wine today.

So that desire to make great wine affordable still influences our list. I’m willing to sell wine at a lower price than other restaurants if it means somebody can experience a wine they might otherwise have missed and enjoy that feeling I felt that Christmas night as a teenager back in Albania. I think our combination of world-class wine at a fair price is the big reason why we sell so much wine.

How often does the wine list change?
We’re always getting in new bottles if they fit our program. But big picture the wine lists changes substantially every six months to reflect new vintages, new bottles, new trends. We probably sample 500 to 600 bottles every six months, find the great picks, and revamp the menu to reflect those tastes. But at any given time we might pick up something new if I really like it and it fits our program.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
I’d love to serve more sparkling wine. I don’t think people drink enough champagne or sparkling wine. Americans in general tend to think of champagne as something you celebrate with, a special occasion wine, and not something you enjoy on its own or with food. Great sparkling wine is tremendous with a variety of foods. I wish more people would order champagne with their food like they do a bottle of chardonnay. We’d certainly offer more. I’d love to sell more.

How do you learn about new wines?
I’m always keeping up with Wine Spectator, following wine auctions, the wine blogs, following global trends. And we have a steady stream of vendors through here most every day showing off their newest bottles. We move a lot of wine for all the big houses in the region so they’re always eager to show off their best new stuff. So we stay up on top of things that way, too. Just by tasting and talking about wine every day with other people who know and love wine.

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
Our guests are already well educated about brand-name wines. So they typically want to know what’s the next thing we have that tastes like the wines they already know. So we like to steer them to new wines, about the winemakers, the wine-making regions. I think it’s up to us to lead them to the next great bottle of wine. We want them to buy a bottle because we like it ourselves. But of course we want to make sure it fits their taste profile.

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
People are always trying to get more. We have 400 to 500 bottles on the list. We’re trying to pair our wine with our food and also be true to our brand. But there are always more options. People always want more options. Even with the hundreds of bottles we offer, people want more choices. They might ask for something from South Africa or Argentina because it’s great wine they read about or heard about somewhere. But usually those wines aren’t on our list. They’re not consistent with who we are and you can’t carry everything.

We also lack Sake, for example. Sometimes we’ll have a really great Sake. But not usually. It’s not part of what we do. But sometimes people ask for it. You can’t be everything to everybody. But with that said we work hard to ensure our wine list is consistent with our food and our influences and that we offer high-quality wines at a good price.

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
The greatest challenge is trying to keep current choices consistent with past choices. Does that make sense? This is what I mean: somebody comes in and asks for a bottle that they loved. They may be a regular or somebody who comes in only a once a year. But we don’t carry that bottle anymore. The vintage is gone. We ran out. The distributor is out of stock. Whatever the case might be. But we need to make sure we have something comparable in terms of flavor, quality and price point that’s consistent with the great bottles we’ve offered that guest in the past.

So we have to know what our guests expect. The flavors, the styles, the prices. And we have to make sure those options are available, even if the label on the bottle changes. It’s a challenge. But it’s also one of the most enjoyable parts of the job.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list?
     We sell a 1-liter bottle of Caymus Cabernet for just $95. So naturally we sell a LOT of Caymus. I believe we are the No. 1 single-unit restaurant in Caymus sales in all of New England.
     Newton Unfiltered Chardonnay is another great deal for just $45. It’s from California. It’s very balanced. Pairs well with a lot of food. It’s sexy. It kicks ass. It’s a chardonnay lover’s dream and at $45 we sell a lot of it.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
     Our Masseto 2015 is a pretty rare super Tuscan. A 100-point wine. An outstanding special occasion wine. A great wine to enjoy among friends. A unique blend of super Tuscans with a lot of complexity. It’s a wine most people would drink and it remember it forever. We sell it for $900 when it might run you $2,000 somewhere else in Boston.
     Also, we’re lucky to be one of the few restaurants in the region to carry Sassicaia 2015, which Wine Spectator named its No. 1 wine of 2018. This is one of the world’s great wines and we sell it for just $315.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
If I have to drink wine for myself, it would be anything from Howell Mountain in Napa. I love the earthiness of the wines in that region. I like the tannins. I like big wines that need decanting. Great spices. Howell Mountain wines remind me of Old World wines. We carry wines from Robert Craig, Dunn and La Jota vineyards in Howell Mountain.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
My experience in this industry was forged soon after I moved here from Albania at some of the greatest restaurants in America most notably Anthony’s Pier 4, Legal Sea Foods and then Grill 23. When I landed in Boston I couldn’t even speak English. But Anthony’s Pier 4 had one of the best, most expansive wine lists in America and a very demanding customer base. I learned the wine business, and I learned the language, pretty fast. Then I feel like I refined my knowledge at Grill 23, which had that outstanding wine list and still does today. I learned a lot at both places and met people passionate about food and wine.

I wanted to carry that passion forward here at Alba and sell the same wines but at a better price. I’ve got to meet so many great winemakers, producers, sommeliers and have had the pleasure tasting a lot of wine. It’s helped me create a palate where I can tell you everything I like or don’t like about a wine and then convey those experiences to my staff and to my guests and hopefully help people make educated decisions about their wine.

I’ve taken all those experiences and brought them here to Alba and love sharing them with our guests. It’s really the same passion I learned that Christmas eve when I was teenager drinking my grandparent’s wine. If people get anything out of dining at Alba, I hope that get that passion and pleasure we get from serving great food and great wine.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Jose Luis Betancur

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Jose Luis Betancur is a Chilean native who immigrated to the United States at age 27 where he began working in the hospitality industry in Boston. When he relocated to New York City, he worked for the TAO Group where he was inspired by their commitment to hospitality. It was during his time working for TAO Group that he took a great interest in wine and spirits. Luis went on to take a program of wine studies at the Sommelier Society of America, and received his certification as a sommelier. He also work for Patina Restaurant Group where he established mentors with whom he also constantly communicates.

A few years ago, Betancur was relocated to Portsmouth, NH, with his wife. He worked as a Sommelier at Babbo Pizzeria e Enoteca in Boston, MA, for over three years. He was the head of beverage education for the staff at Babbo and regularly holds wine education classes for the public. For the past six months, he has served as Beverage Director at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport where he constantly develops and overseas the program there. In his spare time, he enjoys traveling and exploring wine regions around the world.

Now, onto the interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Sommelier or “wine guy” when working the floor, but Beverage Director on my business card. 

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant. 
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen is mainly focused on Italian wines with about 20% dedicated to wines from the rest of the world. 

What are your objectives with the wine list? 
My main objective is to have wines on the list that everyone can enjoy… this includes wines at every price point for every pocket and occasion. For example: wines with familiarity for business meetings and comfort dinners, as well as those that will make people excited to try new wines from different regions, grapes and unknown low production producers. 

How often does the wine list change? 
Understanding what is happening in the market and in the wine world is important in order to manage a profitable beverage program. The wine list changes seasonally and even more often than that if I find a wine with unique characteristics that I think would be a great addition to the program. 

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
French wines are minimally represented since Tuscan Kitchen is more focused on Italian wines. I would like to add wine from some obscure and exciting appellations known for their food and wine pairing, such as Jura. 

How do you learn about new wines? 
I’m constantly learning from articles, colleagues, and distributors. I attend many seminars and wine tastings. I love working the floor where I also learn from my guests. 

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
The strategy is very simple: finding great quality wines in order to deliver great value, adventurous, and hard-to-find wines. 

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests? 
“What do you recommend from [a particular area] that will go great with my food?” Others will ask, “What’s your driest red or white wine?” I like when guests ask questions because this allows me to build conversation, making the experience memorable. 

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list? 
I haven’t been criticized personally, but I do think that guests would like to see more classic well-known West Coast wines; we are always sourcing ideas from our guests. 

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier? 
To continue learning and improve every day in order to deliver an extremely memorable experience not just to our guests, but also to our staff through team education. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list? 
     Erbaluce Antoniolo: Erbaluce is an ancient grape native to Northern Piemonte. A grape that showcases floral aromas of ripe citrus fruit with a hint of white blossoms. Bone dry on the palate with ton of texture and electric nerves. A fun wine for those who like viogneir from France. The Antoniolo family owns over 14 hectares under the watchful eye of their pioneering mother, Rosanna.
     Mauro Molino Barbera d’Asti ‘Leradici’ (root of the family): This is an outstanding family-run estate producing only 12 hectares. This amazing medium-body red wine has great black, earthy and red juicy fruit with a hint of spice. This wine has a ton of character with a beautiful lingering bright finish. It’s a wine that can be enjoyed with pizza or charred steak. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
     Murgo Nerello Mascallese Rose traditional method: Nerello Mascallese is an ancient grape to Sicily, mainly vinified as a red still wine. In this case, The Scammacca del Murgo family has been producing this electric red fruity, yet crisp, bright traditional method sparkling wine for over a century. This wine is great to drink at any time but also pairs well with your favorite fresh seafood, fried calamari, or lamb.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
     Cerretto Barolo ‘Brunatte’:  The Cerreto family is one of the largest landholders in the Piemonte region. Here, like with many other Langhe producers, identity speaks first. Brunatte is the name of the single Cru, where the grapes are coming from. This wine showcases innovation and the identity of the land. Red rustic cherries with a hint of sweetness mid-palate, with leathery round tannis of a classic Barolo and a great bright finish around the edges. A great wine to enjoy with your favorite truffle meal.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
The wine list at Tuscan Kitchen Seaport is always evolving. I take into consideration all aspects of the wine market and trends. I always aim to give guests a great experience. I do my best to deliver what we all look for in a dining out experience: the beauty of wine, and food.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Sandy Block

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Sandy Block, a Master of Wine, is the Vice President of Beverage Operations of Legal Sea Foods, overseeing the wine program for all of their restaurants. Sandy is an iconic, knowledgeable and well-respected figure in the local wine scene. I've met him numerous times at various wine events, and those he has hosted at Legal Sea Foods are usually fascinating and educational experiences. The wine lists he has created have often offered some of the best values of any local restaurant.

Sandy, an Honors graduate of Vassar College, earned a Master’s Degree in American Intellectual and Cultural History from the State University of New York. He previously worked as Assistant VP of Wine for Horizon Beverage Company, and as General Manager of Whitehall Imports and VP of Product Strategies for the Whitehall Companies. In 2004, Sandy became the VP of Beverage Operations of Legal Sea Foods.

He was also the first American on the East Coast to be certified as Master of Wine, and is one of only 353 individuals worldwide to earn this title. He holds membership in the Chaîne des Rôtisseurs and the Confraria do Vinho do Porto, and received the Diplôme d'Honneur from the Corporation des Vignerons de Champagne. Sandy’s extensive credits include serving as Wine Editor for The Improper Bostonian. He serves on the Editorial Advisory Board of Cheers Magazine, the Executive Symposium Committee of Sante Magazine and the Executive Board of Boston University’s Elizabeth Bishop Wine Resource Center (where he has taught advanced courses since 1999). He developed the curriculum for the accredited Wine Studies program at Boston University and for several years taught a wine tasting course at the Cambridge School of Culinary Arts.

Please note that Sandy's interview primarily deals with the intriguing wine program at the 2nd floor dining room of Legal Harborside.

Now, onto the interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Sandy Block, Master of Wine, VP Beverage, Legal Sea Foods

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
We call it the Legal Harborside Collection; it’s a book of rare wines (none are available at any other restaurant in Boston in the vintage we are offering) selected specifically to balance the restaurant’s culinary offerings. My guiding principle is that in wine, everything begins with “terroir,” that mysterious alchemy reflecting harmonies of soil, climate, grape variety and the grape grower's art. Just as Chefs can only create magic with the freshest of hand-selected ingredients, wines of authenticity and character are only possible when expressing unique regional or vineyard origins. In homage to this vision, the Collection focuses on wine whose personality originates from an individual place; wine, for the most part, whose identity reflects a single family’s connection to the particular parcel of earth that it tends. Each has its own story, illustrated briefly on the menu with notes and images that evoke the place and its singular personality, as well as the family behind the vineyard. The great majority of wines are offered in both a 750 ml. (bottle) and a 375 ml. (half-bottle) size, which our service team will pour into a carafe at table, in order to encourage maximum exploration. There are 85 selections.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
To intrigue guests with unusual bottles they’ve never before experienced that will create harmonies with the food they order. To entice them to return.

How often does the wine list change?
Because these are all limited production small (in some case microscopic!) lots, I change the list whenever a wine runs out of inventory at our distributors’ warehouses.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
Not omissions as much as areas where it’s been hard for me to find wine that fits all the criteria. These omissions are primarily mainstream wine categories, interestingly enough. There’s no Pinot Grigio, only one Merlot (and a high end one at that). Moderately priced North Coast California Cabernet. The requirements of being family-owned, terroir-based, exclusive in the state and satisfying our quality criteria, while working in a complementary way with items on the menu, have made these categories difficult.”

How do you learn about new wines?
Through direct relationships with our small group of wholesale distributors and their suppliers.

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
We strive to keep the prices accessible and reasonable. Offering any of the wines on the list that are below $75 by the half carafe, and by the glass, enables us to encourage maximum experimentation without having to commit to a full bottle.

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
Something along the lines of “I’ve had Cakebread before and I love it, but what’s this ‘Cuttings Wharf Ranch,’ I’ve never heard of that.”

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
Not enough wines in a particular category (Italy, for example).

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
To maintain a healthy balance among comfort zone wines, adventurous selections, covering different styles and price points.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list?
Trimbach “Cuvee M” Riesling, 2013 from the Alsatian Grand Cru of Mandelberg, just an intensely stony, mineral-accented wine with brilliant length ($49, $26 half carafe, $13.50 by the glass), and for a red, the Neyers "Evangelho Vineyard" Carignan, from Contra Costa, 2014 (same price as the Trimbach), a foot-trodden, earthy, monumentally spicy red, of which there are only 100 cases produced in the world.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
The 1997 Schloss Schonborn Hochheimer Domdechaney Riesling Spätlese, from the Rheingau, because it’s rare to have such a delicious 20+ year old white wine available, and the Alto Moncayo “Aquilon,” Garnacha, Campo de Borja, 2011, possibly the most delicious rendition of this amazingly underappreciated grape I’ve ever tasted.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
I have to go with two that I’ve selected from barrel. The Sonoma-Cutrer “Les Pierres Vineyard” Single Barrel Private Select, 2016 is a wine that I picked out at a blind tasting while it was still undergoing maturation in spring 2017, that comes from the vineyard’s B North and B Middle North Blocks, and is a beautiful expression of earthy, citric minerality reflecting its stony terroir to perfection (and thrilling with lobster!). The 2015 Pellegrini Family "40 Year Commemorative Cuvée" Pinot Noir, from its Olivet Lane Vineyard in Russian River Valley is a “once and forever” wine of which just 5 cases were crafted for the Sonoma County Wine Auction in 2016 and captures the essence of Russian River; juicy and rich, with silky tannins, featuring notes of bing cherry, spice, toast, and mocha.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
Just how gratifying it is to see other wine professionals dining in the restaurant.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Christopher Williams

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Christopher Williams is the Beverage Manager and Sommelier at Harvest, located in Harvard Square. Harvest is an iconic restaurant, having been in existence for over forty years, which is a huge accomplishment. I recently dined there, attending a The Book & The Cook event which involved Hacking Whiskey. It was a fun and tasty event, with plenty of inventive cuisine.

Christopher Williams has always shown a passion for the hospitality industry, starting as a server at age 18. He graduated from Clark Atlanta University in 2009 with a degree in Psychology and began his interest in wine education in 2013 when he served as a waiter & wine steward at Bone's Steakhouse in Atlanta, Georgia. Christopher became a Certified Sommelier by the Court of Master Sommeliers in 2016. After serving as a sommelier at The St. Regis Atlanta, Christopher moved his talents to Boston and started as the restaurant manager and sommelier at Grill 23 & Bar, and for the past year, he has been making his mark at Harvest.

Now, onto the Interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Sommelier, I prefer that title because it defines who I am and what I do for my profession. I specialize in providing the finest beverage service and engaging with our guests about different wines from different regions of the world, along with pairing wines from my list with the food our chefs prepare daily.

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
The wine list at Harvest covers the classic representation of wines from regions all over the world. I believe that the wine list a sommelier builds should never be about themselves or what is “trending” for the moment. Our job should be to have a wine list that is fun and engaging, but also true to the character of the wines grown in a particular region.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
I want to continue to be an excellent wine steward like my predecessors before me and add more wines to the list that will grab the interests of all the guests that visit Harvest. They say there is a wine for everyone and my goal is to have a list that is approachable for the guest looking for something of “value,” but also consists of wines that a true wine connoisseur will look through and notice some rare wines from smaller producers that may not be well known to the masses.

How often does the wine list change?
The wine list changes fairly often, sometimes 3-4 times a month due to our futures program and changes in vintages. I try to keep a nice rotation of wines so when one is out, I have plenty of options on reserve to choose from and replace with. It’s great because a guest that dines with us one evening may return a month later and notice newer selections on the wine list.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
I would like to add more Riesling options for both the Alsace and German sections of my wine list. I’m in love with Riesling and unfortunately, I feel people are hesitant in trying it because they believe all Rieslings are sweet. There are dry, off dry, sweet and sparkling representations of this grape. Riesling is so versatile you can match almost anything to it!

How do you learn about new wines?
I learn about new wines from my fellow sommeliers, vendors and even guests that come in to the restaurant. They are always excited to tell me about their recent trip to a country and the wines they had a chance to try. In this profession, you are constantly learning something new every day about wines from all over the world.

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
Pricing structure for Harvest’s wine list is marked in a way that is fair to our guests, I try to provide as much value as possible for each section of the list..

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
The most common wine question asked by my guests is what area on my wine list can they find “value.” I tend to lead them straight to Argentina or South Africa because they can provide excellent wines that are priced very fairly on a wine list..

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
The most common criticism I receive from guests about Harvest’s list is that they would like to see more wines with significant bottle age to them. It can be quite the task trying to find wines from the 90’s or early 2000’s that would not cost a pretty penny on the wine list..

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
I think my greatest challenge as a sommelier is fighting against the negative image some people have towards someone in my position. Back in the day sommeliers were thought of as arrogant and snooty towards those who would not spend a lot of money for a bottle of wine. Even now I hear stories from people about their recent visit to a restaurant where the sommelier was trying to sell them a bottle of something they thought was cool or better than what they had originally asked for assistance with. Very few sommeliers act like this and they can make it harder for the rest of us to build trust with our guests who may be hesitant in asking for help. A sommelier above all should always show humility and remain humble. It is always about the guests and their experience, we should never try to force our beliefs or opinions on to someone unless they genuinely wish to know what we like to drink. A good sommelier always wants to help you find a bottle of wine that you truly will enjoy at a price point that you feel comfortable spending..

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list?
One of the best valued wines I have on the list at Harvest is the 2016 Stag’s Leap Hands of Time from Napa Valley for $66. It is a popular wine on my list made by an iconic estate that at one point in history beat Mouton-Rothschild and Haut-Brion in the 1976 Judgement of Paris blind tasting.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
One of the most unique wines on the list is the Chateau Musar from Lebanon. When you think of a Cabernet blend most people would not think of Lebanon, most likely they would go straight to California or Washington state. It is full-bodied, savory and yet has an elegance to it that is quite wonderful.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
My favorite wine at Harvest is the 2015 Radio Coteau Savoy Vineyard Chardonnay from California. They make cool climate, single vineyard wines that are out of this world, very terroir driven..

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service? 
Harvest’s wine list is constantly evolving, and I believe in feedback from my guests no matter how small the detail may be. I want our guests to truly enjoy themselves at Harvest and know that I am always happy to talk to them about various beverages. I want people to know that they can come “across the river” as they say and enjoy a nice glass or bottle of wine in Cambridge at Harvest.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Bruno Marini

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Bruno Marini is the Director of Food and Beverage at Chopps American Bar and Grill, located at the Burlington Marriott. I've previously given raves to Chopps and it was one of my Top 50 Restaurants of 2018. I believe it is under-appreciated, worthy of far more attention than it receives. I've had the pleasure of meeting Bruno on multiple occasions at Chopps, including at some of their excellent wine dinners. If you've never been to Chopps, it is time for you to check it out.

Bruno Marini graduated from Johnson & Wales University in 1991, and gained experience working at famed restaurants Biba and Pignoli. In 1997,  he stepped into his first General Manager position at the high-end fusion-style eatery, Ambrosia, where he oversaw the restaurant’s growth and development alongside their celebrated chef and owner, Anthony Ambrose. In 2000, Marini assumed the role of General Manager at The Federalist, a French restaurant with an esteemed wine program, which encompassed an impressive collection of more than 32,000 bottles and 2,700 selections of fine and rare wines. In 2015, Marni joined the team at Chopps American Bar and Grill and currently serves at the Director of Food and Beverage of Pyramid Hotel Group Boston.

Now, onto the Interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
I prefer Wino, but Wine Director would be appropriate.

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
We have over 375 selections of wine – well-balanced selections of full and half bottles representing California, Italy, Pacific North West and a sprinkle of French, New Zealand, Australia and Argentina.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
To cater to our guests. It’s not about what I like to drink, it’s about what the guests are looking for and offering them a quality list at a solid value.

How often does the wine list change?
We maintain a consistent list. We update vintages on a regular basis and revise the wines by the glass 2-3 times a year.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
We try to keep our placements reflective of items that sell, but we are always looking for new additions from our guests’ recommendations.

How do you learn about new wines?
Well, I’m not a wine geek so I don’t go to tastings or belong to wine clubs, but I meet with my wine vendors on a regular basis to see what’s new in the market. I am also very fortunate to have close relationships with winemakers and owners, so I love to get the inside scoop on new releases or trends.

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
Be fair, competitive, offer deals and don’t be obnoxious when possible. I review wine lists in the area and try to stay at least 12-18% cheaper. Wine lists are usually marked up 2.7-3.2 times the cost of wine and you will find that there are some great deals on our list.

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
“Will this go with what I am eating” or better yet, “Will I like it?”

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
I’d say if there is one thing, it would be not having a very specific wine that someone visiting is looking for. We try to maintain a very friendly wine list, this means there is wine that has name recognitions and hits all price points.

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
Consistently educating staff about new wines, changing trends, and what to offer guests for the best dining experience. 

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
A rock star Sonoma wine maker is Clay Mauritson. He is young and an innovator. He is known for his Zin from Rock Pile but makes a series of Single Soil Cabs called Loam, Positas and Suther. Also, any wine from Realm is super unique.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
Wow! Tough one, but I really enjoy wines from Gaja-Italian and Kelleher Family-Napa.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service? 
I am proud to have created & managed the 1st Grand Award-Winning Wine list in Boston for 5 years straight. At the time only 83 restaurants in the world had the award given by Wine Spectator. Now, Grill 23 & Bar has that award and I could not be prouder for them. I was also fortunate to make, bottle and sell my own wine with legendary wine maker Su Ha Newton of Newton Vineyards in Napa. Our current wine list is friendly, extensive, familiar and reasonably priced and I hope our guests enjoy the selections.

The Mind Of A Sommelier: Jesse Eslin

(Check out my Introduction to the The Mind of a Sommelier series.)

Jesse Eslin is the Wine Director at The Table at Season to Taste, located in northern Cambridge. I've previously given raves to The Table, and was quite taken with their intriguing wine list, enjoying some delicious selections from their list, including the Hild’s Elbling Sekt. Jesse was one of the first sommeliers I thought of when I created my new series, The Mind of a Sommelier.

Jesse’s deep dive into wine came when he worked at Craigie on Main and learned as much as he could. He says “working and learning at Craigie On Main with Chef Tony Maws and his amazing team was like going to graduate school for wine. It was crazy, intense, exhausting and I loved learning as much as I could.” In 2016, Jesse opened The Table at Season to Taste with Chef Carl Dooley, creating new wine pairings every six weeks when the Prix Fixe menu changes.

Now, onto the Interview:

What term do you use to describe yourself: Sommelier, Wine Steward, Wine Director, something else?
Wine Director

Please give a brief description of the wine list at your restaurant.
Our wine list is a constantly changing creature that should make almost anyone happy, as long as they are willing to step a little out of their comfort zone, which is almost a prerequisite for eating here.

What are your objectives with the wine list?
I just want to have fun with it, and make it easy for guests to make a quick decision. Early last year, I tried to add a larger selection of bottles to the list for the sake of it, and found that it did more harm than good. Most of the time, guests come in knowing exactly what they are going to do, menu wise, and I don’t think they wanted to bother looking through a list that had 100-plus different options, so they would punt and just order a couple of wines by the glass. I think it’s an overlooked quality to make all of your decisions very quickly and have the rest of the night to just enjoy the company that you are with, so I trimmed it way back, and it feels much less intimidating.

How often does the wine list change?
The wine list changes pretty frequently. Inventory wise, we don’t buy a whole lot at a time, so it gives us the flexibility to change it up whenever we feel like. The pairings change every time the menu changes, and we try to be seasonally conscious in what we put on the list in terms of glass pours and bottles. The weather tends to dictate what direction our guests want to go, drink wise.

Are there omissions on your wine list you would like to fill?
The challenge is keeping the wine list small – we have a tiny restaurant, tiny kitchen, and you can imagine, a tiny wine cellar. So of course I am tempted to have bottles from every region, every grape – but we keep it tight and flavorful and memorable here.

How do you learn about new wines?
It’s a mix of tasting a lot of new bottles from the awesome distributors that we work with, falling down the rabbit hole of book surfing and online articles, and just scrolling around SevenFifty and researching things that look interesting.

What is your strategy on pricing the wines on your list?
As with everything here, our prices come with tax and hospitality included in the price. There can be sticker shock included in this pricing structure when looking at a wine list, so I just have to work that much harder to find really good wine at really good values. It seems to all work out. I appreciate that our guests seem to trust me and jump right into the pairings I suggest. We have bottles at various pricing levels; I like to think it is an adventure that is worth the ride. I try to take care of guests who are coming in regularly, and love wine, but can’t break the bank on it. And equally important is taking care of our guests who are coming in for a special occasion and want something quite celebratory.

What is the most common wine question asked by your guests?
I’d say it’s “What should I drink?” Because of the wide variety of the flavors on the menu, you can go in a bunch of different ways, depending on your mood. Most of the wines that we have are high acid and medium bodied, food-friendly wines that can morph and bend depending on the dish.

What is the most common criticism you receive from guests about your list?
I’d say if there is one thing, and I don’t know if it’s a criticism, it’s that guests often times are unfamiliar with what we have to offer. I think having a short list with a bunch of obscure grapes or familiar grapes from different places is a fun way to get our guests to broaden their horizons and place their trust in us to give them something delicious. I think the way the menu sets up, guests are much more comfortable putting their whole experience in our hands. Plus, it’s stimulating to have that interaction, rather than have a guest just cold order a cabernet.

What is your greatest challenge as a sommelier?
I think the pairings are a fun challenge. Carl loves flavors from all over the globe, and oftentimes, flavors that would be much easier to just give over to a crisp lager. I think that’s the excitement in wine though. It doesn’t have to be so serious, and it has a place at the table along with these cuisines that have a lot of spice, a lot of energy. Every pairing is not going to be absolutely perfect, but it’s fun to see how certain aspects of the wine and the dish play together depending on what bite you take.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the best value wines on your list?
Generally speaking, if wines have a little bit of sweetness to them, they are going to play well with a variety of the spices that you will find on the menu. The Dandelion from Alberto Nancleras is an off-dry albariño from the Rias Biaxas in northwestern Spain. It’s like drinking the wine version of lemon sherbet sprinkled with sea salt. I love wines that feel like a lightning bolt, and this definitely falls into that category.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of the most unique wines on your list?
I love the Broc Cellars Counoise. Chris Brockway makes some really cool stuff out of a warehouse in Berkeley, California and this is my favorite. Counoise is a blending grape commonly found in the Southern Rhone in France, but really shines on its own. It has this really bright, spicy fruit and is just a pleasure to drink. If fresh, new world Pinot Noir is your thing, you will love it.

Tell me about 1 or 2 of your favorite wines on your list?
The sparkling wine that we are pouring by the glass, Hild’s Elbling Sekt, is my latest obsession. It’s gorgeous. It smells like walking into a flower shop. It’s dry, crisp, lively, and the glass is almost impossible to put down before it’s empty.

Is there anything else you would like people to know about your wine list, your work as a sommelier, or wine service?
I really appreciate the guest trusting us and going along for the ride. I am a happily obsessed wine geek and of course could talk wine all day and night. And I do. There is always something new to learn and try. Here at The Table at Season To Taste we love embracing the new menu every 6 weeks, which also means a new wine list, new breads, new desserts – all new pairings - it’s an adventure and we appreciate that it seems to be working, and I am just so grateful to this community.