Perfection In A Bottle 2: Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Palo Cortado Sherry

For my recent birthday, I thoroughly enjoyed a special wine from my cellar, a wine that some might consider an antique. It's a wine that's over 100 years old and it was superb! 

This wine was the Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Palo Cortado Sherry, and its fascinating history extends back to the early 18th century, when the solera system first started to be used by the Sherry industry. The bodegas of Aguilar y Cia were established in 1740 in Sanlúcar, and the solera that would eventually result in the Yuste Palo Cortado was founded sometime between 1740-1750. Just take a moment to consider the age of this Sherry when it was born, before even the U.S. acquired its independence, and maybe during King George's War. 

We then consider the family of León Aldama y Respaldiza, which came to Sanlúcar from the province of Álava, part of the Basque region. In 1823, León took possession of the bodegas of Aguilar y Cia, acquiring their old barrels of Sherry. His family became quite famed in Sanlúcar, especially for their vast vineyards and fine wines. When León died in 1863, his two nephews, Pedro Aldama Gaviña and José Gabriel Aldama Camba, became his primary heirs. Eventually, José became the first Conde de Aldama ("Count of Aldama") and seems to have taken primary control of the family's wine holdings and production.

During the 1880s, the dreaded phylloxera came to the Jerez region, destroying numerous vineyards and causing a number of bodegas to close. José lost some of his valuable vineyards and though American rootstock was used to save Spanish vines, José found fault with these new vines. He didn't care for the wine made from the new grapes and refused to add the wine to nearly all of his soleras, except for a few test cases. He basically stopped producing any further wine, and only purchased pre-phylloxera wine to add to his established soleras. Around 1888, José finally decided to seal at least some of this oldest soleras, such as those acquired from Aguilar y Cia, behind plaster, allegedly to protect their value and prevent them from being adulterated with wine from new grafted vines.

When José passed away, his nephew, Antonio Aldama Mendivil, the Marqués de Ayala, acquired the estate. Antonio took well to the Sherry business, acting as an almacenista for a number of other companies, and he also invested in other business, from mining to banking. The old soleras, hidden behind the plaster, remained untouched. Eventually, around 1921, there were significant changes and Antonio's financial situation came down crashing as he had started paying insufficient attention to his businesses, being distracted by other matters such as his philanthropy.

Due to his bankruptcy, Antonio was forced to sell off most of his businesses and investments. It then appears that in 1927, the old solera from Aguilar y Cia that had been hidden behind plaster was finally unearthed and then sold to Manuel Argueso Hortal, a wine company that no longer exists. Even under that new ownership, the solera remained essentially untouched, eventually being sold to Valdespino and then later being acquired, with a winery, by a property developer.

Bodegas Yuste was founded by Francisco "Paso" Yuste Brioso, and in 1991, he purchased the historic Bodega Santa Ana in Sanlúcar, and then in 1998, he bought the Viña La Alamedilla, 46 hectares of vineyards in the Jerez pago Carrascal. Around 2001, the property developer who acquired the old solera and winery from Valdespino sold it all to Bodegas Yuste, which took the materials to reconstruct the Bodega Los Ángeles, located in Sanlúcar. This became the home for the ancient solera begun so long ago by Aguilar y Cia.

To this point, the only wine that entered the solera was a small amount to compensate for natural evaporation. Bodegas Yuste later chose to bottle two Sherries from this solera, an Amontillado and, due to some barrel variation, a Palo Cortado. The average age of these Sherries is estimated at 130-150 years old. It could even be older than that. 

I've previously enjoyed the Bodegas Yuste Conde de Aldama Amontillado Sherry, which I called "perfection in a bottle." Would the Palo Cortado live up to the experience of the Amontillado? A Palo Cortado is a rare type of Sherry, somewhat a cross between Amontillado and Oloroso. I had high hopes for this Sherry, and it didn't let me down in the least.

I have to begin noting that words are truly inadequate to depict the totality of drinking this extremely old Palo Cortado. However, I will try to encapsulate some of its wonders. First, it possessed a fine, dark amber color. Second, the nose possessed a complex and intense melange of harmonious aromas that seduced and tantalized me. I could identify some of the notes, but others were more elusive, exotic hints of rare aromas. Third, my palate was overwhelmed with pleasure, such an incredible taste. Complexity and harmony, pure elegance and balance. There was even a measure of freshness to this sherry, which is amazing considering its great age. It also possessed a diverse melange of flavors, both familiar and not, including briny notes, almonds, caramel, dried figs, subtle citrus, and much more. An extremely long and pleasing finish. I never wanted to stop drinking this Sherry and it possessed everything I might desire in such a wine. I consumed this wine with some Italian cuisine, and it worked very well, especially with a veal dish topped by black truffles. 

I purchased this Sherry back in 2020, and only paid $120 for the 500ml bottle. I think that was an amazing value for such an old and unique wine, especially one which was pure magic to drink. Sherry is too often under-appreciated so you can sometimes find some amazing values. You would be hard pressed to find another type of wine, of a similar age, at close to this price point. However, it may now be difficult to find this wine anywhere, and I have been looking. Fortunately, I bought multiple bottles of this Palo Cortado, so I still have a few in my cellar for a future celebration. 

2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama: A Wine of Joy

Manzanilla is a type of sherry unique to a single city in the sherry region, Sanlúcar de Barrameda, and even has its own Denominación de Origen, known as Manzanilla de Sanlúcar de Barrameda. Manzanilla is sometimes known as el mas fino de los finos ("the finest of the fine") and vino de la alegria ("the wine of joy"). It's generally drier and paler than Fino sherry, with a taste often thought to be salty, reminiscent of the briny sea.

Manzanilla is extremely popular in Spain, especially during the Feria de Abril, the famed Spring Festival of Sevilla, the capital of Andalucia. During this festive week, attendees drink approximately 1.5 Million half-bottles of Manzanilla. How many other wine festivals do you know where that much wine, of a singular type, is consumed in such a short time? 

In the U.S., Sherry imports are low and Manzanilla constitutes only a tiny percentage of those imports. However, more Americans need to experience the joys of Manzanilla, from its intriguing taste to understanding how well it pairs with a wide variety of foods. I recently enjoyed a special Manzanilla which surely would excite the palate of many wine lovers. 

The 2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama (about $30) is a rarity, a Vintage Sherry (Jerez de Añada) which is also En Rama. Vintage sherry is not part of the usual Solera process, and the Consejo Regulador plays a significant part, to ensure that the sherry is not manipulated, and only is from a single vintage. The botas will be stoppered and sealed to ensure this matter. 

Few bodegas ever produce vintage sherry but I've been fortunate to previously taste a couple vintage sherries, including the 1964 Gonzalez Byass Vintage Oloroso, and the 1975 Bodegas Tradición Vintage Oloroso. The 2015 Valdespino Manzanilla is the first time I've experienced a vintage Manzanilla. 

The history of the Valdespino bodega extends back to the 13th century, during a time when the Moors, Muslims from North Africa, controlled most of Southern Spain, including Jerez. On October 9, 1264, King Alphonse X, also known as El Sabio, the “Wise,” successfully conquered Jerez, seizing control back from the Moors. As a reward for their bravery and loyalty, King Alphonse awarded land and vineyards to some of his best knights, including Alonso Valdespino, the start of the Valdespino's involvement in the wine business, making it one of the oldest Sherry bodegas in the region. 

In 1999, Valdespino was purchased by the Grupo Estevez, a family-owned group that was established in 1974 and owns other bodegas as well. They have allowed Valdespino to remain true to their traditions and old winemaking methods, as well as maintaining their concern for the importance of terroir. Grupo Estévez owns about 800 hectares of vineyards, with 256 hectares in the famed Macharnudo Pago with its valued albariza soils, considered the best place to grow the Palomino grape. 

Back in 2015, Valdespino decided that the harvest was particularly excellent so they decided to keep some of the Manzanilla aside to make vintage sherry. The Palomino grapes for this Manzanilla were from an old vineyard in the Pago de Miraflores, maybe the best vineyard around Sanlúcar. Valdespino set aside 16 Manzanilla casks, which were eventually sealed by the Consejo Regulador as a Vintage Manzanilla. In October 2021, five casks were selected and combined into this bottling, and only 2800 bottle were produced. 

These were bottled, en rama, meaning there was minimal filtering, and this was intended to make the Sherry have more character and be more complex. Excessive filtering was said to strip the sherries of some flavor, to make them more uniform in taste. Some claim that en rama Sherry should be consumed within a few months of production, however others state it can age longer. I believe this Valdespino Manzanilla, which was released in 2022, proves that en rama can age well. 

The 2015 Valdespino La Especial Manzanilla En Rama, with a 16% ABV, possessed an alluring nose, with a touch of the sea, almonds, subtle citrus notes, and hints of herbs. On the palate, it was complex and compelling, delicious and intriguing. It was bone-dry, with plenty of acidity, a prominent briny character, and notes of apple and lemon. There were also hints of almonds, olives and herbs. It possessed a lengthy and satisfying finish. This Manzanilla would pair well with fried foods and seafood, especially oysters. An impressive wine, its complexity and taste would appeal to many wine lovers. And it's very reasonably priced for such a delicious rarity. You really need to expand your palate and experience Manzanilla. 

Rant: Put Your Cellphone Down!

Put Your Cellphone Down!

Cellphone use is ubiquitous, and far too many people have great difficulty lifting their heads from the screens of their phones no matter what they're doing. They walk down the street, looking at their phones rather than looking out for others who are walking in their path. When these individuals visit a store, from a wine shop to a book shop, they sometimes continue using their phone even when they go to the register to make their purchase.   

That needs to stop!

First, it's just rude as the cashier often needs to engage you in conversation when you make your purchase. It's difficult to do so if you're talking to someone on the phone, or texting, or surfing the Internet. Second, it's dehumanizing to the cashier, as your attention is on your phone and you aren't treating the cashier as a human being, but rather as if they were an automaton. This is not the self-service check out line. Third, mistakes can easily be made as you aren't paying sufficient attention and may not properly understand whatever questions the cashier asks you.

If you have to make a call, then handle the call before you go to the cashier. Once you get in front of the cashier, put your phone away or down. Give your full attention to the cashier. Treat them as a human being. Engage in some actual face-to-face social interaction. Your life is far greater than the tiny screen of your cell phone.

At the wine shop where I work, this has happened to me on multiple occasions and it's usually clear that  their cellphone conversations aren't emergencies. They could easily put down their cellphone but they made an active choice not to do so, to be impolite. It is certainly more difficult to handle their transaction as asking them relevant questions isn't easy. I know plenty of other people who have worked as a cashier and have complained about this issue.

At restaurants, servers also encounter this same problem. The server may approach a table to take their order, but someone is on their cellphone and still tries to place their order. The server may need to ask this person questions, such as whether they have allergies, and it becomes difficult as that person is on their cellphone. It's just rude and unnecessary. 

Have some consideration and put your cellphone down!

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I'm back again with a new edition of Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food and drink events. I hope everyone dines out safely, tips well and are nice to their servers.
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1) "Do you swear your Nonna makes the best meatballs, risotto, or pasta dish you've ever tasted? Now’s your chance to prove it—and honor her culinary legacy." In celebration of the Netflix film NONNAS, Chef Anthony Caturano is calling on families across the region to submit their favorite Nonna-approved recipes for a unique dining experience: “The NONNAS Dinner.” This series of special events will bring the warmth of Nonna’s kitchen to three Sunday gatherings this fall, and your recipe could be featured on the menu.

Chef Anthony Caturano will personally review submissions and select standout dishes to be served at one of three events held at Prezza (October 5), Tonno Gloucester (October 19), and Tonno Wakefield (October 26). Selected contributors will receive two complimentary tickets to the dinner and will be recognized by name on the official menu. "This is a heartwarming opportunity to spotlight family traditions, honor generations of love through food, and connect with a broader community over shared heritage."

To enter, visit prezza.com/nonna and submit your recipe along with a short story about what makes it special. Submissions are open now and must be received by September 1, 2025.

2) Somaek, a Korean restaurant in Boston, is excited to announce a takeover event with Hana Makgeoli, happening on July 19th. Hana Makgeolli, a Brooklyn-based producer of artisanal Korean rice wines (also known as sool), has been dedicated to honoring Korean heritage through deeply rooted brewing traditions since their launch in 2020. The teams are excited to come together for a collaborative evening featuring the signature Somaek tasting menu, thoughtfully paired with selections of sool from Hana Makgeolli.

Tickets begin at $80 and reservations can be made through Resy. If you would like to participate in the special event menu, please add “Hana” to your reservation notes after booking. There are two seatings, at 6:00 PM and 8:30 PM, and spots are limited.

For late night-cravings, Hana Makgeolli will also have specialty cocktails and banchan snacks available at Temple Records Bar, the Japanese-inspired vinyl bar and listening room next door until 12 AM. 

Impressions of Posto & Pizza: Now At Assembly Row

A delicious Roasted Garlic Pizza that could also protect you from an army of vampires! I recently enjoyed such a pizza at an old restaurant in a new location, and I look forward to dining there again very soon.  

Chef Joe Cassinelli is the owner of the Alpine Restaurant Group, which currently includes Posto (an Italian restaurant, located in Somerville), the Painted Burro (Mexican cuisine, with locations in Waltham, Somerville, Harvard Square and Brookline), and the Burro Bar (Mexican cuisine, in Boston). Posto first opened in 2009 in Davis Square, Somerville, and recently they relocated to Assembly Row in Somerville. 

I first dined at Posto fifteen years ago, in August 2010, although I was already familiar with the Italian cuisine of Chef Cassinelli, who had previously been the Chef de Cuisine at L’Andana, an Italian restaurant in Burlington, which had been one of my favorite restaurants (but which is now closed). I was impressed with Posto's cuisine, from its Neapolitan pizza to its killer pasta, and it earned a spot in my 2010 List of Favorite Restaurants. Over the subsequent years, I continued to dine at Posto and it continued to earn a spot on my year-end Favorite Restaurant lists. 

With the advent of COVID, and restaurants being forced to close for a time, I didn't dine at Posto for several years. When Posto recently relocated to Assembly Row, I stopped by for lunch, hoping that the quality of the food hadn't changed. I found that the pizza and appetizers were just as good as ever, and I'm excited to return, to enjoy more of their menu options.  

The restaurant is good-sized, with a lengthy bar, and what appears to be a private dining room. There's also patio dining available. The Menu includes Antipasti (such as Carpaccio, Bruschetta, Meatballs, and Calamari), Insalate (from Caesar to Caprese), Pasta (such as Bolognese, Carbonara, and Short Rib), Carne e Pesce (such as Ribeye Steak, Tuscan Seafood Stew, and Swordfish), and Pizza (both Red and White). There are 8 variations of both the Red and White Pizzas, which are Neapolitan style pizza that follow the rules and guidelines of the Associazione Verace Pizza Napoletana. 

Juan Gabriel Pérez, the Executive Chef at Posto, possesses over 15 years of experience in making Neapolitan pizzas. It was recently announced that Pérez had placed 54th in the Best Pizza Awards, whose website states: "It’s the only accreditation platform that stays true to culinary standards, free from commercial agendas. Our mission? To break down barriers in the pizza world and spotlight authentic craftsmanship, bold innovation, and diverse voices that are shaping the future of this iconic dish." This is the third year that Pérez has competed in this competition, and he received his highest ranking ever. 

Talking about Pérez, the Best Pizza Awards website stated, "As Executive Chef at Posto Boston he’s praised for his creative flair, seasonal ingredients, and dough innovation. With over a million followers worldwide, Juan blends tradition and modernity, earning a global reputation for craftsmanship and passion that honours pizza’s authentic roots."

For lunch, my dining companion and I started with an appetizer of Arancini, made from crispy arborio rice, lemon, and oregano, accompanied by a spicy sweet & sour tomato sauce. We received five arancini, with a nice, crispy coating and a flavorful and tender interior, with hints of lemon. The arancini were enhanced by the tasty tomato sauce, which was mildly spicy and well balanced. The sauce is also great for dipping bread. 

Another appetizer was the Burrata, which includes prosciutto di parma, watermelon, truffle honey, aleppo pepper, sea salt flakes, and microgreens. The addition of the sweet watermelon chunks was such a great choice, helping to balance the salty prosciutto and the creamy burrata. All of the ingredients worked well together, a nice blend of textures and flavors. A perfect summer dish and a great way to start your lunch or dinner. 

We then selected one of the White Pizzas, the Roasted Garlic, made with bacon, mozzarella, roasted garlic, parmesan, oregano, and aleppo pepper. Wow!! I've never seen more garlic on a pizza, large and plump cloves of roasted garlic. I love garlic so this was quite impressive. The thin-crusted pizza had a nice char, and the crust was also both crisp and chewy. The crunchy bacon was a nice addition too. I previously enjoyed many pizzas at Posto, and it was clear that the quality hadn't diminished an iota. 

I'm very pleased I checked out the new location of Posto and strongly encourage all of my readers to dine there as well. There's plenty on the menu to cater to diverse appetites, and the pizza is some of the best in the area. You can check out their new Happy Hour, which is held in their bar & lounge, Monday-Friday, from 2pm-5pm. All Appetizers are Half-Priced, which gives you a great opportunity to experience some of their menu at a great discount. And I'll be reporting back on my future visits to Posto too.