Wednesday, October 24, 2007

Spanish Vacation: Elkano

Day Six Continued...

Lunch today was at the famed Elkano, located in the small fishing village of Getaria. Chef Pedro Arregui opened the restaurant back in 1968. It serves traditional Basque cuisine, specializing in seafood. It uses only the freshest ingredients. Their fish is caught fresh every day. They are known for their grilled fish, cooked outside over charcoal, which you can see below.

As we waited for our multi-course lunch to begin, we sipped some 2004 El Nido Clio, from the Jumilla region of Spain. This is a superb wine that I have previously reviewed. It is a Monastrell blend and has luscious fruit flavors.

Our initial food course was a salad with lettuce, carrot, tomato, white asparagus and tuna. There was a light vinegarette on the salad and everything was very fresh and tasty. A simple but delicious course.

The second course was some cold lobster pieces, with oil, salt and tomato. The lobster was very sweet and the pieces were fairly large chunks of meat.

We then moved onto the first of our hake kokotxas ("gills"). We had kokotxas previously at the Medoc restaurant so were curious how they would compare. These kokotxas were fried in a little egg batter and oil. They were very good, much better than the ones we had at the Medoc. They were not really slimy at all. We were then brought a second plate of kokotxas, though this time they were just grilled. They are intended to be eaten whole, and do have a bit of a gelatinous texture to them. But, it was obvious that the sauce at the Medoc had made them seem far more gelatinous. Simply grilled, they were tasty, though I did prefer the fried ones.

Our next course was then grilled hake, a large piece of flaky white fish. Absolutely delicious! A very simple preparation, allowing the natural sweet taste of the fish to shine. This is why this restaurant is so popular, their fine grilled fish.

Dessert included cheese ice cream and rice with milk, both very good.

Presentation of the various courses was very nice. They definitely paid attention to the look of each dish, as well as its taste. The restaurant itself has a certain elegance to it though it is still a casual restaurant. Service was excellent. I would definitely recommend this restaurant, especially if you love seafood.

2003 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinotage



Do you like Pinotage? Well, I certainly do.

Fort Ross Vineyard is located in the Sonoma County of California. They grow three only varietals: Pinot Noir, Chardonnay and Pinotage. Their Pinotage was first harvested in 2001. (For additional information on the winery, you can check out the excellent article on Dr. Deb's blog, Good Wine Under $20).

The Pinotage grown at Fort Ross consists of two proprietary clones that were developed from bud wood imported from one of the most select Pinotage vineyards in South Africa. They were the first vineyard to import such bud wood into California. It is one of the few California vineyards that grows this varietal.

The Pinotage spends about fifteen months in French oak, about 20% new oak. The Pinotage is typically barreled for between 12 and 18 months and racked just prior to bottling. It is unfined and unfiltered. Only about 400 cases of this wine were produced.

The Wine Spectator awarded this wine 91 Points and stated: "Pure and delicious, with a core of ripe blackberry, wild berry and cherry fruit that’s supported by lively acidity and & firm yet ripe tannins. Ends with a nice spicy, earthy quality. Drink now through 2011."

The Fort Ross Pinotage has received a lot of positive press. And as a big fan of Pinotage, I definitely wanted to try this wine. But it is currently not available in Massachusetts. So what was I to do? Luckily, Jill, a fellow blogger who also sells wines at Domaine547, was able to get me some of this Pinotage.

I opened a bottle last night and was thoroughly impressed.

The 2003 Fort Ross Vineyard Pinotage ($36) has a very dark purple color and an intoxicating nose of dark berries with a tinge of spice. This is a wine that beckons to you like the call of a Siren. When you taste this wine, its rich body swells in your mouth and fills it with lush blackberries, blueberries and black cherries. A hedonistic joy. Besides the fruit, there are tiny bits of smoke, cocoa, and spice that mesh well with the lush fruits. There is even a slight earthiness to this wine, mostly on the finish. The wine is very well balanced and provides an interesting melange of flavors. The tannins do not overwhelm and the finish lingers on and on, a very satisfying ending to a luscious wine. This is a sensuous wine, a delightful nectar that is sure to please. Overall, I highly recommend this wine as Drink & Buy.

In a previous post, I reviewed the 2004 Kanonkop Estate Wine Pinotage and issued a challenge: " If you don't think you like Pinotage, then I challenge you to taste this wine and see what you think."

I would issue that same challenge once again with this wine. Taste this Pinotage and I very much doubt then that you will be able to say you don't like Pinotage.

Spanish Vacation: Talai-Berri Winery

Day Six Begins...

After leaving our hotel, Jose drove us into the Basque region to our first stop, the Talai-Berri Winery located in the town of Zarautz.

Talai-Berri was built in 1992, though its wine making extends back four generations. The winery is located on the sunniest slopes of Mount Talai Mendi, surrounded by 12 hectares of vineyards.

The winery is a family run operation, led by Bixente Eiagirre Aginaga. He is the head winemaker and was our guide for the tour and tasting of his winery. His daughter, Itziar, is his second in command and his wife and other daughter also work full time. You can see Bixente in the picture below. He is the gentleman on the right hand side.

Talai-Berri is one of the leading producers of Txakoli, also called Txakolina. Txakoli is usually a white wine, with a slight effervesence, made from the Hondarribi Zuri varietal. It is only made in three main villages in the Basque region, including Getaria, Zarautz and Aya. Txakoli is considered a "Vino de Aguja", meaning there is a slight fizz to it but not quite sparkling. Txakoli wines are also very high in acidity and low in alcohol. After the creation of Txakoli de Getaria Guarantee of Origin in 1989, Talai-Berri became the first winery built exclusively for manufacturing Txakoli. Most Txacoli is drank in Spain though a small portion is exported.
Bixente first led us through his wine-making area and then into the vineyards where the harvest was currently going on. Such an amazing landscape. It was a sunny day anyways, and was just the perfect time to be in the vineyard. We got to taste some of the sweet grapes off the vine.

Interestingly enough, there were roses at the end of some of the lines of vines. These roses have an important purpose. They are more suspectible to certain plant diseases than the vines. So, if the roses start to get ill, they will be able to protect the grape vines from the disease before it becomes a problem. The roses are an early warning system, like a canary in a mine.

For our wine tasting, Bixente had a table set up on his rear porch which overlooked the vineyards. There were plates of food including tuna and various ham slices. To sip wine, in that beautiful setting, was certainly amazing. The first wine was the 2006 Talai-Berri Oreka, a white Txakoli made of 90% Hondarribi Zuri and 10% Hondarribi Beltza. "Oreka" means "balance" or "equilibrium." The wine is only 11.5% alcohol. It is made to be consumed within one year of bottling. I very much enjoyed this wine. It is very crisp and has excellent citrus flavors. The slight effervesence adds an interesting element to the wine. It is a very refreshing wine and would be a perfect summer wine. It is also a good food wine, especially with oily foods.


Tiny amounts of red Txakoli are made with the Hondarribi Beltza grape. Talai-Berri is the only winery to commercially sell red Txakoli. We tasted their 2006 Talai-Berri Txakolin Beltza. It has 12% alcohol. It is also made to be consumed within one year of bottling. I enjoyed this wine very much. It has a fruity nose and the fruit comes out on the palate as well. The slight fizz reminded me of an Italian Lambrusco. I could sit outside in the summer drinking this wine all day.

Both of these wines are easy drinking, casual wines. They have a lot of character though and are excellent value wines. They should cost $10 or less. They are available in the U.S, through Ole Imports. You might also see it available at local Spanish restaurants. During the rest of my time in the Basque region, I ordered Txacoli several times because I enjoyed it so much.

Talai-Berri also makes another interesting drink, a digestive called Lamin Ura "Aguardiente de Orujo" ("Firewater"). It is much more potent, with 40% alcohol. It is distilled from the wine juice left over after the first pressing of the grapes. It is mainly clear in color. I took a bottle of this home and recently shared it with some friends. It is a powerful drink, but smooth. It has some subtle flavors reminiscent of Txacoli and lacks any bitterness. It would be a good after dinner drink. Or it could be carefully sipped during the evening.

Bixente was a wonderful host! As he did not speak English, our guide Jose translated for us. Bixente was welcoming, personable and charming. It was very obvious he was a passionate man. And the winery was very impressive. Our visit at Talai-Berri was such an excellent time. I would highly recommend this winery for a visit. And check out their Txacoli!

Tuesday, October 23, 2007

Stoneham Sun: Imari Fusion Restaurant

My new column of "A Passionate Foodie" can be found in the October 24 issue of the Stoneham Sun newspaper. This is a weekly column that concentrates on reviews of local restaurants though it may also touch on a few other food and wine topics.

The new column will be published tomorrow and is currently available online. The new column is a review of the Imari Fusion Restaurant, a Thai, Korean and Japanese restaurant in Winchester.

If you have any questions or comments about my column, feel free to add them here. Next week, my column will be another restaurant review.

Dine with passion!

Spanish Vacation: Day Five Continued

Day Five Continued..

After lunch, we stopped at the Dinastia Vivanco, the Museum of the Culture of Wine. This is a huge place, maybe the largest wine museum in the world. The museum contains exhibits about all aspects of wine from its ancient roots to its place in art. There are artifacts that extend back thousands of years as well as more modern ones. Throughout the museums are short films about wine topics. The film on creating wine barrels was particularly interesting. They also have a large exhibit of corkscrews. You cannot believe how many different corkscrews they have. Several hundred, at least. It is simply amazing. You could probably spend an entire day exploring this museum and I do recommend that if you are in the area to stop by for a visit.


This was an interesting sculpture located outside the museum.

The museum also has their own winery and they make two wines, the Dinastia Vivanco Reserva and a Crianza. The bottle was specially designed by the winery, based on a model dating from the 18th century. This design has even been registered and patented. You get a free taste of their Crianza upon exiting the exhibit halls. You can also get tours of the winery.


Outside of the museum, they have a garden area where they have rows of grapevines, with a diverse selection of grapes. These are more to exhibit the different grapes than to use to make wine. Definitely check out this museum.

After the museum, we made a brief stop at Marques de Riscal winery. This winery has created a "City of Wine." This is a new complex designed by the renowned architect, Frank Gehry, who designed the Guggenheim Museum. This new facility has a hotel, restaurant, spa, meeting halls and more.

This is certainly an unusual looking building.

We had a drink in the bar. I enjoy the Marques de Riscal wines and have for a long time. the picture below was taken in the bar.