Ikalto Academy in Georgia: The Oldest Winemaking School

"God, you see, was divvying up the land to the people of the world, but the Georgians were too busy feasting to show up to get their cut. When they finally showed up, presumably well fed and having had copious amounts of wine and in tremendously good spirits, they explained their situation with such heartfelt innocence and passion that God realized their sincerity and their enthusiasm for the culture of food and wine, so he gave them the piece he was reserving for himself: Georgia."
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

The country of Georgia, located in the Southern Caucasus, is claimed to be the birthplace of wine, extending back to at least 6000 BCE. Besides this achievement, Georgia may also be the location of the oldest winemaking school in the world, the Ikalto Academy. Although that Academy no longer exists, its memory is being honored through the creation of a new Academy, dedicated to Georgian wine and winemaking, which may have opened in Ikalto last fall.

Let’s explore the origins and history of the Ikalto Academy and then look to the future of the new academy.

During the 6th century, Ioane Zedazneli, a Christian missionary, lived in the city of Edessa (also known as Urhai), which was an important center for early Christianity and which was very significant for the Syrian Church. Ioane allegedly had a vision of the Virgin Mary which requested he select twelve disciples and travel to Georgia to spread Christianity. Following this vision, he assembled a group of other monastic missionaries who became known as the Thirteen Assyrian (or Syrian) Fathers.

All of them came from the Mesopotamian region and it is unclear whether they were from Assyria or Syria. Contributing to the confusion is that the ancient Greeks, who created the term “Syria,” applied it to Assyrians as well as other peoples in that region. However, the place of their origin isn’t especially relevant to the point of this tale.

The Thirteen Fathers include: Ioane Zedazneli, Davit Garejeli, Abibos Nekreseli, Shio Mgvimeli, Ioseb Alaverdeli, Anton Martkopeli, Tadeoz Stepantsmindeli, Piros Breteli, Iese Tsilkneli, Stepane Khirseli, Isidore Samtavneli, Mikael Ulumboeli, and Zenon Ikaltoeli. While in Georgia, these men established numerous churches, monasteries, and hermitages. As I’ve written previously, Christianity came early to Georgia, with King Mirian III, in 337 A.D. declaring it to be the state religion. However, there were still plenty of Georgians who had not yet embraced Christianity.  

One of these Thirteen Fathers was Zenon Ikaltoeli, also known as Saint Zenon, who founded a monastic complex in the village of Ikalto, which is located about six miles from the town of Telavi in the Kakheti region. Over the centuries, new churches have arisen on this site, largely replacing the original church, where Zenon was buried. Today, there are three main churches on the grounds. The main church is Khvtaeba (Holy Spirit), which was built upon an older church, and the two others include Sameba (Church of the Trinity), and Kvelatsminda (Absolutely Holy).

During the early 12th century, an Academy was established at Ikalto by Arsen of Ikalto, a scholar, philosopher, translater, researcher, hymnographer, and defender of the Georgian Christian Faith. Arsen (later known as Saint Arsen) was the son of Kakhetian nobleman Ibad Vachnadze (also a learned man) and Arsen once also worked as the tutor for the renowned King David IV the Restorer (or Builder).

Arsen desired to create a high school and academy, and it quickly became an important educational and cultural center within Kakheti. Some of its more scholarly courses included theology, rhetoric, astronomy, philosophy, geography, geometry, and liturgical chanting. In addition, the academy offered course in more practical skills, including pottery making, metal work, pharmacology, viticulture and wine making. This might make it the oldest winemaking school in the world. One of the most famous students of the academy was the 12th century Georgian poet Shosta Rustaveli.

For the next approximately 500 years, the Academy was a significant element within the Georgian community, and it seems very likely it played a substantive role in promoting winemaking throughout the country. I haven't yet found more detailed information on the operation and influence of the Academy though I'm continuing to research the matter. Unfortunately, in 1616, the Academy was destroyed when Persian invaders, led by Shah Abbas I, set fire to it, and the Academy wasn’t rebuilt.

However, within the last few years, a major project has begun to create a new academy in Ikalto, the Qvevri School & Academy. The academy will teach about winemaking, qvveri creation and use, and similar topics, and may even offer classes in foreign languages. In addition, the academy will serve as a wine research facility. There appears to be some confusion as to whether the academy is already open or not. The National Wine Agency indicates the academy opened in September 2016 while Decanter claims the academy won’t open until mid-2017. Maybe part of the academy has already opened but certain elements won't open until later this year.

As the Georgian wine industry has often reached into its historic past, it is great to see them attempting to resurrect the oldest winemaking school in the world. The academy will help to preserve the past, especially how to create qvevri, and is a major step toward a positive future for the Georgian wine industry.

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 3)

“That was the end of life, but the qvevri is the beginning of life for wine,” he continued. “It is the womb.”
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

Continuing to relate my recent experiences with Georgian wines, I'm providing more reviews of some of the 60 Georgian wines I tasted at the recent Boston Wine Expo. And I'm also going to provide additional history and background on the region of Georgia and its wines, to give better context to these wines.

It is impossible to understand Georgian wine without knowing something about qvevri (or kvevri), giant earthenware vessels which may be used to ferment and age wine. Also known as churi in Western Georgia, use of these vessels extends back thousands of years, with proto-qvevri vessels reaching back to the Neolithic era. I'm going to provide some basic information about qvevri, but please note that this is a much more expansive subject.

Other synonyms for Georgian qvevri, or earthenware vessels of different shapes and sizes, include: dergi, lagvini, lagvani, lagvinari, kvibari, kubari, lakhuti, chasavali, khalani, and kotso. Other countries had their own earthenware wine vessels, from the Greek pithos to the Roman dolium, or other vessels such as amphorae, tinaja and giara. However, many of those other vessels were used more for storage and transport rather than fermentation and maturation.

Qvevri production is, in many respects, a dying art, though there are efforts to ensure its continuation. Historically, traditional qvevri-producing areas includes the villages of Atsana in Guria; Makatubani, Shrosha, Tq'emlovana and Chkhiroula in Imereti; and Vardisubani in Kakheti. The production techniques were passed down for generations through families. Qvevri are made from baked clay, using the built-coil method, and red clay is the most common though some claim that black clay, from Western Georgia is the best, though  there may not be anyone currently producing qvevri from black clay.

Selecting the clay for qvevri is important as the clay needs to be free of impurities, not too porous, and possess the proper mix of mineral. Once the qvevri has been properly fired, the inside is lined with propolis, also known as bee glue, which is a combination of beeswax, saliva and secretions from botanical sources.

Once grapes have been crushed, the juice, along with the skins, seeds and stems, are placed into a qvevri, which is buried underground, helping to keep the wine cool, stable and safe. This natural temperature control helps to make the fermentation proceed well and without incident. In addition, the clay helps with micro-oxygenation, also providing some nutrition to the wine. The extended skin contact in the qvevri will commonly darken the wine, plus qvevri wines tend to be more tannic, including the whites.

Not all Georgian wineries use qvevri, and some wineries only use them for some of their wines, but its use seems to be expanding. It is a link to their historic past, and the wines can be delicious and unique, interesting and compelling. There is also a push for the use of qvevri in making more natural wines. Amphora use is expanding throughout the wine industry across the world, but the Georgian qvevri still retains its own uniqueness. In 2013, the United Nations even added qvevri to their UNESCO Intangible Cultural Heritage list.

"Tradition says that the Georgians have always lived under threat; they must be sober enough to defend themselves at any time."
--Vintage: The Story of Wine by Hugh Johnson

All of the wines I'm reviewing in this post are part of the Corus Imports portfolio. Corus, which was founded in 2006 and is located in Connecticut, is an importer and distributor of wines and spirits, including wines from Georgia and France, Georgian Chacha, Georgian Brandy, and Russian & Canadian Vodka.

The Batono Winery, founded in 2013, has vineyards in the micro-zones of Sagarejo (in Kakheti), Napareuli (in Kakheti), and Ambrolauri (in Racha-Lechkhumi & Kvemo Svaneti). Their winery is located near Sagarejo vineyards, and their name, Batono, means "lord" and is a form of polite address.

The 2015 Batono Chinuri ($12) was interesting and delicious, with notes of ripe pear and melon, accompanied by some herbal accents. Easy drinking, but with some complexity, good acidity, and a nice texture. Excellent value wine. The 2015 Batono Qvevruli Saperavi ($20), which is made with both qvevri, and oak, was easy drinking, with bright red cherry, raspberry and plum flavors, hints of spice, and a touch of vanilla. The 2015 Batono Qvevruli Tetri ($20), which is made with both qvevri, and oak, is a blend of 40% Kisi, 40% Mtsvane and 20% Rkatsiteli grapes. This was a fascinating and delicious wines with a unique melange of spice, dried fruit, herbal accents and a touch of eucalyptus. Each sip brings a new flavor combination to your palate and this is a wine to savor and enjoy over time. Highly recommended and a very good value.

The Alapiani Marani has made wine for over 20 years, but they only formed a company and began bottling wine in 2011. They have vineyards in the regions of Kartli and Kakheti.

The 2015 Alapiani Rkatsiteli ($20), fermented in qvevri, was aromatic and spicy, reminding me in some ways of a Gewürztraminer. There were also dried fruit flavors, with a mineral backbone, and some white pepper on the finish. Very interesting and tasty wine. The 2016 Alapiani Tavkveri ($25), made from a grape usually used for Rosé wines and fermented in qvevri, was crisp, dry and light bodied, with pleasing cherry and raspberry flavors with herbal accents. An elegant and easy drinking red wine.

I was thoroughly impressed with the 2015 Alapiani Shavkapito ($25), produced from the Shavkapito grape which is new to me and appears to be rare even in Georgia. Its name means "vine with a black cane" and is said to be terroir-reflective. The grapes were sourced from a vineyard in the Okami village of the Shida Kartli region and the wine was fermented and aged in qvevri. With an alluring aroma of black fruit and herbs, the wine presented with a fascinating melange of flavors, including ripe plum, blackberry and black cherry, along with herbal accents, a smoky note, and a touch of spice. Lots of complexity, smooth tannins and a lengthy, pleasing finish. Highly recommended.

The Telavi Wine Cellar, founded in 1915, is located just outside the city of Telavi, in the Alazani Vallet of Kakheti. Some of their vineyards extend back hundreds of years, such as their Kondoli vineyards which were mentioned as far back as 1742. The winery has about 240 hectares of Kondoli vineyards, mostly planted with indigenous varietals though they grow a few international ones as well. They also have vineyards on the left bank of the Alazani River, in the Kindzmarauli area, and one in the Napareuli area. Telavi has a few different labels, including Marani and Satrapezo.

The NV Marani Sparkling White Brut ($11) is dry and lightly effervescent, with bright peach, citrus and almond notes, and a hint of toast. A tasty and easy drinking bubbly, with plenty of complexity for this excellent value wine. The 2015 Marani Kondoli Mtsvane-Kisi ($14) is fresh, crisp and dry, with pleasing flavors of peach and tropical fruits, enhanced by some floral notes and spice accents. This seems very much like a summer wine, and while drinking it, it will make you think of a tropical island.

The 2013 Satrapezo Mtsvane ($30) was fermented for 5 months in qvevri and then spent 10 months aging in new French oak. It was crisp, dry and aromatic, like Gewürztraminer, with some tropical fruit flavors, a buttery texture, and spices notes.

The Wine Man is a family-owned winery, founded by Alexandre I. Jorjadze in 1998, and his family has a history of winemaking.

The 2014 Wine Man Tsinandali ($10), a blend of 85% Rkatsiteli and 15% Mtsvane, which is fermented in stainless steel. It is fresh and crisp, with tasty apple, pear, and lemon flavors, with mild hints of spice and vanilla. An easy drinking and tasty wine at a very good price point. The 2015 Wine Man Saperavi ($11) is also easy-drinking, with tasty red fruit flavors, low tannins, and a smooth finish. Another value wine.

The 2010 Wine Man Ikhalto ($12) is a blend of 50% Saperavi and 50% Cabernet Franc, one of the few Georgian wines I tasted with an international grape. The wine was fermented in stainless steel and aged for 6 months in old oak. With a tasty blend of cherry and black cherry, plum and raspberry, the wine also had peppery notes, restrained tannins, and a full body. The finish was long and pleasing, this would be a fine wine with barbecue or a steak. The 2014 Wine Man Mukuzani Saperavi ($12) also spent 6 months in oak, and was delicious, with ripe red and fruit fruit flavors, mild spices, and a hint of vanilla.

Which Georgian wines did you enjoy at the Boston Wine Expo?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign, Event Chair Andy Husbands, and Boston-area restaurants invite guests to join them in the fight against childhood hunger at upcoming “Cooking Matters Dinner” and “Massachusetts Restaurant Day” dinners. On Monday, March 27th, Andy Husbands will partner with Share Our Strength to raise funds for the organization’s No Kid Hungry campaign at a special, ticketed “Cooking Matters Dinner.” Taking place at Tremont 647, the event will include a 6 p.m. cocktail reception followed by a multi-course seated dinner with wine pairings at 7 p.m. All proceeds will benefit the No Kid Hungry campaign.

Multiple ticket levels are available including:
Individual ($150 | includes: ticket to event, tax deductible amount of $50)
Summer Meals Supporter ($1,000 | includes: four individual tickets to event, recognition on website, tax deductible amount of $600)
After School Meals Friend ($2,500 | table for 6 at event; recognition on website and email invitation; tax deductible amount of $1,900)
School Breakfast Champion ($5,000 | preferred placement table for ten at event; group photo opportunity with Chef Andy Husbands; recognition on website, email invitation, and in remarks of host committee; tax deductible amount of $4,000)

Tickets are required as space is limited. All attendees must be 21 years of age or older. Tickets can be purchased at: https://ce.nokidhungry.org/events/tremont-647-cooking-matters-dinner.

On the same night, March 27, Share Our Strength will also partner with eight Massachusetts Restaurant Association restaurants to participate in “Massachusetts Restaurant Day,” serving prix fixe dinners to benefit No Kid Hungry. Each participating restaurant will offer guests a special multi-course meal with all proceeds benefiting Share Our Strength’s No Kid Hungry campaign’s work to end childhood hunger in MA.

Participating restaurants include: 111 Chop House, Bucatino, Cobblestones of Lowell, Davios Northern Italian Steakhouse at Patriot Place, East Bay Grille, Hotel Northampton, and Turner’s Seafood.

Tickets for the individual dinners will be available for purchase at https://ce.nokidhungry.org/events/massachusetts-restaurant-day

2) On Monday, March 13, from 6pm-8pm, Bastille Kitchen, an intimate Parisian bistro nestled in the heart of the city’s Fort Point neighborhood, invites cocktail enthusiasts to join spirits expert Victoria Bizzozero for a night of “Charcuterie & Cocktails” in Chalet Lounge from 6pm to 8pm.

Guests in attendance will learn how to make specialties like a Bulleit Rye Old Fashioned, as well as a twist on a classic Don Julio Margarita, as they nosh on light bites prepared by the restaurant’s talented culinary team. Designed for those seeking to sharpen their DIY cocktail making skills, Bastille Kitchen’s “Charcuterie & Cocktails” event is guaranteed to leave attendees with the ability to impress guests with their newfound mixing “expertise” at their next gathering. For those needing a not so subtle step-by-step refresh, recipes for the Bulleit Rye Old Fashioned and Don Julio Margarita will be provided to take home.

COST: $40 per person (includes demonstration, seasonal cocktails and light snacks)
For tickets, please visit http://bastillekitchen.net/2017/02/02/charcuterie-cocktails/ or call 617-556-8000.
$5 Validated parking at 10 Necco Street (located directly behind Bastille Kitchen)

3) The Capo Restaurant Team is excited to debut the brand new downstairs supper club, introducing a new way for Bostonians to enjoy a night out with dinner, live music, and dancing all under one roof. Capo Restaurant welcomes guests to the newly debuted Supper Club at Capo, where guests can enjoy live music and dancing the new 4,000 square foot downstairs space. The new space completes Capo’s vision of being a modern supper club where live music and dancing can be part of a fun night out. Guests will be treated to nostalgic décor (think your grandmother’s basement with wood paneling and thematic 70’s design elements) in the new lounge. In addition to an expansive bar, the Supper Club at Capo features a large stage outfitted with the latest technology and state-of-the-art sound and lighting systems, featuring a rotating lineup of live music Thursday, Friday, and Saturday evenings.

Supper Club at Capo guests can enjoy cocktail creations from Beverage Director Kevin Mabry, who offers a variety of Capo’s signature cocktails including the Don Corleone (Don Julio blanco, Pierre Ferrand Dry Curacao, blood orange, lime), Capo Old Fashion (on tap), and the famous Capo Espresso Martini (Titos vodka, housemade cold brew coffee, Galliano Ristretto, cacao, cream).

Doors open to the Supper Club Thursday – Saturday at 7pm, with live music on stage from 8pm – 11pm, followed by a DJ 11pm until close. Early dinner reservations are highly suggested for entry to the lounge. Admission is not guaranteed.

UPCOMING LIVE MUSIC SCHEDULE
Thursday, March 9
Conscious Reggae
Errol Strength and the Conscious Reggae Band incorporate classic and modern sounds of the Reggae tradition.
Friday, March 10
Alex MacDougall Band
Singer and songwriter Alex MacDougall has been performing around Boston since the 1990s. Alex has earned a reputation of having a chameleon-like vocal ability, his most notable being that of Frank Sinatra.
Saturday, March 11
Felix Brown Brand
Felix Brand Band is a collaboration of seven creative minds fusing rock, blues, R&B, jazz and frunk.
Thursday, March 16
TBD
Friday, March 17
Alex MacDougall Band
Singer and songwriter Alex MacDougall has been performing around Boston since the 1990s. Alex has earned a reputation of having a chameleon-like vocal ability, his most notable being that of Frank Sinatra.
Saturday, March 18
The Classic Yellow
Lead by Lead Singer/Guitarist Steve Memmolo, this funky, eclectic party band specializes in everything from Pop to Hip hop, Funk to Jazz, and everything in between.

Early dinner reservation (5pm – 6pm) at Capo Restaurant are recommended for guests who are interested in experiencing the Supper Club at Capo. Please note that you’d like to go to the Supper Club after dinner while making your reservation. Private lounge seating is available for parties and reservations. For additional information and pricing please call 617-993-8080.

4)  The Hawthorne will be hosting New York Times journalist and author Robert Simonson on Monday, March 20th from 5pm-9pm to celebrate the launch of Simonson’s latest book, “A Proper Drink”. In the book, Simonson retraces the birth and development of the contemporary craft cocktail movement and interviews more than 200 key players in the industry, including The Hawthorne’s Jackson Cannon.

The event is free and open to the public – guests will be able to purchase craft cocktails from The Hawthorne, meet Robert Simonson and buy a signed copy of his latest work.

5) Rowes Wharf Bar, located inside the iconic Boston Harbor Hotel, invites guests to kick off their St. Patrick’s Day celebrations with a special Tullamore D.E.W. Irish Whiskey Dinner presented by Chef Daniel Bruce. On Tuesday, March 14, at 6:30pm, guests will enjoy a variety of whiskeys from Tullamore D.E.W., the original triple distilled and triple blended whisky, known around the world for its smooth and gentle complexity. Chef Daniel Bruce’s three course dinner has been designed to complement the whiskeys and bring their unique flavors to the forefront.

The full menu for the Tullamore D.E.W. Irish Whiskey Dinner is as follows:
Reception
Irish Mule
Finnan Haddie Soup Sip
Duck Prosciutto on Toasted Irish Soda Bread
Minted Brown Sugar Glazed Grilled Lamb Chops
First Course
Tullamore D.E.W. 12 YR
Salt Cured Char Seared Irish Salmon (Dried Fruit, Wild Rice, Spinach Purée)
Second Course
Tullamore D.E.W. 14 YR
Smokey Irish Whiskey Braised Corned Beef (Whipped Potatoes and Braised Cabbage)
Third Course
Tullamore Phoenix Irish Coffee
Warm Spice Cake (Irish Coffee Ice Cream, Candied Hazelnuts)

Cost: $85 per person
Reservations are required in advanced and available on Eventbrite.

Boston Wine Expo: Wines of Georgia (Part 2)

"They clung to their ghvino (wine) with such a passion you’d think it was their blood."
For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

Continuing to relate my recent experiences with Georgian wines, I'm providing more reviews of some of the 60 Georgian wines I tasted at the recent Boston Wine Expo. And I'm also going to provide additional history and background on the region of Georgia and its wines, to give better context to these wines.

The name "Georgia" may derive from Persian and Turkish versions of the name George, respectively Gorj and Gurju, and which the Russians later named Gruzia. It is possible that sometime during the Middle Ages, the country became known to English speakers as Georgia rather than Gruzia. Georgians though refer to their country as Sakartvelo ("the land of the Kartvelians") and themselves as Kartveli. This refers back to the ancient kingdom of Kartli, in Eastern Georgia, which the ancient Greeks and Romans called Iberia.

The capital city of Georgia is Tbilisi, which was founded in the 5th century, and the legend of its creation claims that King Vakhtang Gorgaslani, while on a hunt near the Kura River, killed a pheasant. When he went to find the bird he had slain, he found that it had fallen into a hot spring and had been cooked by the waters. The King felt that it was a fortuitous location, and he chose to found a city there, calling it Tbilis-kalaki, the Warm City.

The ancient people of Georgia worshipped Aguna, a deity of viticulture and wine-making, which some people have compared to Bacchus/Dionysus. In parts of Georgia, Aguna was known by other names such as Aguna-Angura in Racha-Lechkhumi and Nunua, Jujelia in Samegrelo. Harvest time would see rituals and animal sacrifices to this deity and theatrical performances of these ancient rituals can still be seen in modern-day Georgia.

Christianity came early to Georgia, with King Mirian III, in 337 A.D. declaring it to be the state religion. Before this time, one of the first missionaries who traveled to Georgia to spread Christianity was Saint Nino, who allegedly came to the country carrying a cross tied with dried grape vines, creating a long lasting link between wine and the church.

"Zedashe is what the Georgians call sacramental wine. Where church wine is historically awful, in Georgia it was supposed to be the purest and the highest quality. In most traditional wineries there was always one qvevri dedicated to sacramental wine and intended for donation to churches, as well as for use during holidays."
--For the Love of Wine: My Odyssey through the World's Most Ancient Wine Culture by Alice Feiring

The Shilda Winery is located in the village of Shilda in the Kakheti region and its mission is to revive endangered Georgian grape varieties. They also produce five kinds of Georgian brandy. The beautiful wine labels have artwork from a famous Georgian artist, David Kakabadze.

The 2015 Shilda Manavi Mtsvane was fresh, dry and crisp, with pleasing notes of pear and spice, with citrus accents. Easy drinking and tasty.  The 2015 Shilda Kisi was another delicious white wine,  with more juicy peach notes, and intriguing spice accents. Easy drinking, with a moderately long finish, there is a hint of the exotic which helps to elevate this wine. The 2015 Shilda Mukuzani Saperavi, which is aged in oak for about a year, possessed an alluring aroma of black fruit and spice. On the palate, the ripe plum and blackberry flavors were prominent, assisted by a spicy backbone and hints of vanilla. Full bodied, but with restrained tannins, this is a wine you want with meat.

Kartuli Vazi Winery produces wine from both Racha-Lechhumi in Western Georgia and Kakheti in Eastern Georgia. They combine ancient traditions with modern technology. The 2013 Kartuli Vazi Tsinandali is a blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, and is easy drinking with tasty pear and mild spice notes. The 2016 Kartuli Vazi Saperavi, with a pleasing fruity aroma, is also easy drinking with fresh red fruit flavors and a hint of licorice. The 2013 Kartuli Vazi Mukuzani Saperavi, which spent about 6 months in used oak, is a bigger wine, though still with low tannins, and ripe flavors of plum and black cherry, with hints of spice. Delicious, it would be an excellent pizza and burger wine.

Kakhuri Gvinis Marani, which means Kakhetian Wine Cellar, was founded about 9 years ago and owns vineyards in the Kakheti region. The winery is located in the town of Gurjanni, on the road to their vineyards in the Alazani Valley.

The 2009 Tsinandali, a blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, was matured in oak yet it remains fresh and elegant with alluring aromatics. On the palate, there are tasty peach and pear flavors, with spice accents, and this wine would pair well with seafood. An intriguing complexity, a lengthy finish and soft tannins. Highly recommended. The 2014 Manavi is also a blend of Rkatsiteli and Mtsvane, though with a higher proportion of Mtsvane. It was more aromatic, with stronger herbal notes on the palate, along with apple and pear flavors. It wasn't as complex, but was easy drinking and pleasant.

The 2013 Saperavi was also an easy drinking wine, with predominant red and black fruit, mild tannins, and a hint of smoke on the finish. A fine pizza and burger wine. On the other hand, the 2009 Mukuzani, which spent three years in oak, was a much more complex wine, elegant and impressive. It was silky smooth, with notes of ripe plum, black berry, mild spice, and a touch of vanilla. It has an exotic accent to it, a lingering finish, and is definitely a wine to slowly savor. Highly recommended.

The Tbilvino Winery, founded in 1962, is one of the largest wine producers in Georgia as well as the largest exporter. It operates two wineries, under a couple different brands, including Georgian Valley wine. Their history extends back to the Soviet era, when the largest wine factory was launched, eventually producing 90% of the wine in Georgia. When Georgia attained independence, the company became independent, and 1999 was their first harvest as a new company.

The 2015 Tbilvino Rkatsiteli was fresh and crisp, with tasty stone fruit flavors, accented by mild spice notes. An easy drinking white, good for seafood or just enjoying during the summer. The 2014 Tbilvino Qvevri Rkatsiteli offered a more unique taste, with more prominent spice and herbal notes, and mild stone fruit flavors. It was still crisp and dry, but offers more complexity and would pair well with roast chicken and other poultry dishes.

The 2015 Tbilvino Saperavi was fresh and fruity, an easy drinking wine with tasty red fruit flavors and a bit of spice and vanilla. A burger and pizza wine.  In comparison, the 2014 Tbilvino Saperavi Special Release, which was aged in oak for ten months, is a more impressive wine. With a nice depth of flavor, the wine presents with flavors of black cherry and plum, mild spice notes, and a hint of smoke. The tannins are well restrained, the finish is long and satisfying, and there is so much going on in this wine. You'll want to pair this wine with a hearty meat dish, such as a grilled steak, though you could also drink it on its own, enjoying every supple sip. Highly recommended.

The Qimerioni Winery, which was founded in 2011, was named after an artistic café that opened in Tbilisi back in 1919 by the group of acclaimed Georgian poets and artists. They create wines using indigenous grapes, most from vineyards in the village of Chumlakhi in the Gurjaani District of the Kakheti region. They also produce two types of chacha, a Georgian brandy.

The 2012 Qimerioni Tsinandali, a blend of Rkatisteli and Mtsvane, is fresh, crisp and dry, with apple and pear notes, and hints of spice. Easy drinking and tasty. The 2013 Qimerioni Qvevri Gora Saperavi is also easy drinking, but with rich black fruit flavors, plenty of spice, and a mild earthy undertone. Drink it with a steak or ribs. The 2012 Qimerioni Mukuzani is more complex, elegant and intriguing, with silky black fruit flavors, a spicy backbone, and a lengthy finish.

Ugh! More Stinkin' Scores For Sake From Wine Advocate

"Sake is this kind of product that once you begin to understand it more, the more passion you have for it and the more enjoyment you get from it."
--Liwen Hao in Wine Advocate #229

The Wine Advocate is back at it, scoring Sakes, and I still vehemently disagree that it will be helpful in promoting Sake. In fact, I believe it is most likely to have an opposite effect, driving away the average consumer from purchasing Sake. It's great to see Sake reviews but they don't need numeric scores!

I've ranted about this issue before, as far back as 2013, and you can check out the progression of my previous posts: Rant: Sake Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores!, Rant: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores! and Update: Sake Still Don't Need No Stinkin' Scores! I knew the Wine Advocate was going to continue rating Sake and I've been keeping watch for their next review, after last summer's Issue #226.

In the newest issue of the Wine Advocate (February 2017, #229), Liwen Hao, the Asian Wine Reviewer for Wine Advocate, once again wrote an article about Sake as well as reviewing 21 Sakes. In his article, The Sake Trail, Liwen described his visit to Japan this winter, with stops in Kyoto, Nada and Saijo. He visited numerous breweries in these areas, and his article notes the importance of water sources for Sake brewing, Sake rice types, and the issue of terroir. There were some beautiful photos that accompanied the article. It was a nice article, though he didn't go into as much depth as I would have preferred, though that isn't a significant criticism.

"It is not farfetched to say that to understand more about Nada sake, one has to understand more about Kobe beef—the pairing of local food and beverage is always a seductive topic."

--Liwen Hao in Wine Advocate #229

In the prior issue #226, Liwen reviewed 78 Sakes, all Junmai Ginjo and Junmai Daiginjo, and rated them from 90-98 points. For the new issue #229, Liwen only reviewed 21 Sakes, 15 which were Daiginjo, and the remaining 6 were a mishmash of types, surprisingly including a Futsu-shu. This time, the range of scores ranged from 80-96, though of the 6 Sakes that earned 90+ points, 5 received 90 or 91 points, and 1 received 96 points, the Honda Shoten 1996 Tatsuriki Akitsu Junmai Daiginjo. The lowest scoring Sake, at 80 points, was the Gekkeikan Jyosen Karakuchi Futsu-shu. A number of these Sakes are already imported into the U.S.

So far, the Sake article and reviews have not been discussed on the Wine Advocate's Bulletin Board or on the Wine Berserkers forum. It is apparent the new reviews aren't sparking sufficient interest to get these people to discuss Sake. And if they aren't discussing it, then they probably agent's drinking it either. I also have not yet seen any other online articles referencing these new Sake reviews. The reviews haven't apparently initiated any significant discussions anywhere and it is hard to believe they are going to have any significant, positive effect for Sake in general. I'm waiting to see if the prices of the reviewed Sakes rise, as they did when issues #226 was released.

The Editorial Calendar for the Wine Advocate notes that for the rest of 2017, there is only one other Sake article scheduled, for issue #230, at the end of April, and it is titled "Good Value Sakes." The Wine Advocate should have tried to schedule a Sake article for near October 1, International Sake Day. That is a missed opportunity. And after April, the Wine Advocate will have eight months of no Sake coverage which won't help promote Sake.

Sake articles and reviews are great, but we don't need Scores. Such Scores will cause more harm than good and read my previous posts on the subject for the myriad reasons why that is the case.

Let me repeat once again: Sake doesn't need numeric scores!