Les Vins Georges Duboeuf: The Beauty Of Beaujolais

"A gouleyant wine was one that was light, supple and benevolent, free of complexes and pretension, one that slipped with pleasurable ease down the gullet. The adjective could be properly applied only to Beaujolais. With no other wine did it make any sense at all. Beaujolais owns gouleyant the way the Loire Valley’s white wines of the sauvignon grape own their curious nose of pipi de chat (cat pee) or gewürztraminers their characteristic signature of rose petals and litchis."
--I'll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World's Most Popular Wine by Rudolph Chelminski

The poor Gamay grape.

It's said that the ancient Romans were the first to use Gamay grapes to make wine, though they never could have foreseen the threat Gamay would one day face. Over 600 years ago, on July 31, 1395, Gamay faced execution as if it had committed some heinous crime. Philip the Bold, the Duke of Burgundy, had great enmity for the Gamay grape, claiming it was overly bitter, possessed of a foul taste, and was even a "disloyal plant." He much preferred the Pinot Noir grape and ordered that all Gamay vines be cut down or uprooted, in favor of Pinot Noir. The fate of Gamay looked grim.

Fortunately, many farmers chose to ignore the order, especially as Gamay vines were so much easier to grow than Pinot Noir. Forty years later, Philip's grandson also tried a similar ban on Gamay, but he too had little success in his endeavor. We owe a debt of thanks to those farmers willing to battle this prohibition. The survival of Gamay is a benefit to all of us because it produces some delicious and interesting wines.

Recently, I attended a media lunch and wine tasting at Brasserie Jo, meeting Barry Ibboston, the New England Sales Manager for Quintessential Wine, and Romain Teyteau, the North America Export Director for Les Vins Georges Duboeuf. The 2016 vintage of Beaujolais, both white and red wines, was highlighted at the tasting, with a couple 2015 wines thrown into the mix. Overall, the wines were very good values, most under $22, and they showcased some of the diversity of the region. These are also wines which would be excellent choices for the summer, tending to be lighter and some of red wines even benefit from a slight chill.

For some wine drinkers, they are primarily familiar with the Beaujolais region through Beaujolais Nouveau, a light, fruity wine released each November. Though some show disdain for the Nouveau, Romain states that it is the most complicated wine to produce, as you must work at it for many consecutive hours, and they have to institute 24 hour shifts. There is so little time for error so everything must be done perfectly, to ensure the success of production. This disdain for Nouveau sometimes translates into disdain for all Beaujolais, generally from those who know little about Beaujolais.

"Sure we’re Beaujolais, the vignerons of the crus were saying, but we’re also Moulin-à-Vent and Fleurie and Morgon and Chénas. Our wines are exceptional, vins de garde that can keep for years and years. People should realize they can’t compare them to primeur, and they shouldn’t expect to be able to get them for the same price, either."
--I'll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World's Most Popular Wine by Rudolph Chelminski

Beyond Nouveau, there is much more to this region, as you will also find Beaujolais AOC, Beaujolais Superieur AOC, Beaujolais Villages AOC and Beaujolais Crus. There are ten Crus, villages, in the Beaujolais region, including Brouilly, Chénas, Chiroubles, Côte de Brouilly, Fleurie, Juliénas, Morgan, Moulin-à-Vent, Régnié and Saint-Amour. These Cru wines are intended to reflect the terroir of the specific area, to be wines of more depth and complexity. They are age-worthy and intriguing wines, worthy of your attention.

Red Beaujolais wines are made from Gamay, an ancient red grape, and the wines tend to be light, low in tannins and high in acidity. But, like any other grape, the wines can vary in their flavor profiles, dependent on various factors. It can produce high quality wines, though not enough people seem to realize that is possible. As an aside, Voltaire, the French writer, historian and philosophy was a huge lover of Beaujolais, once ordering 3000 bottles.

The famed Georges Duboeuf is a négociant, representing over 400 winegrowers in Beaujolais, some who have been with him for many years. In 1964, he founded Les Vins Georges Duboeuf, which currently represents wines in Beaujolais, Mâconnais and Southern France. He is sometimes referred to as the “King of Beaujolais” for his ardent advocacy of Beaujolais, especially the promotion of Beaujolais Nouveau. He currently controls about 10% of the production of all Beaujolais wines.

At the tasting, and representing the Duboeuf wines, was Romain Teyteau, who was born in Paris and whose father's family is from Bordeaux. In 2010, Romain moved to Montreal, and sold wines for a Canadian winery. Later, he became the brand ambassador for Georges Duboeuf in New York and Canada, and then in 2013, he was promoted to become the North America Export Director for Duboeuf wines. Romain was personable and charming, passionate and intelligent. The tasting was more fun and interesting due to his presence.

"If you bottle a wine, you can give it spirit or make it dumb. The right time to bottle is important."

--Georges Duboeuf

Les Vins Georges Duboeuf offers two main labels of wines, the Flower label and the Cru label. The Flower label consists of appellation based wines which are produced from grapes they purchased, or wines they bought and blended. They bottle hundreds of thousands of cases of these wines, but note that the Flower Label is a wine style, rather than a quality level. These are wines that are intended to be balanced with fruit, unoaked, possess good acidity, and be approachable, though they can also age well. Duboeuf created a label of a bouquet of flowers back in 1970, a pioneering step when most French wine labels of that time were rather boring and conservative.

As for the Cru labels, these are wines that are nearly all made by independent estates, and which Duboeuf sells for them. Duboeuf may purchase all or only a portion of their production, marketing the wines for them, helping expose the wines of these small producers to a greater audience. These wines are all about terroir, showcasing the specific Cru.

Romain discussed a few Beaujolais vintages, noting how the 2015 vintage was warm and exceptional, similar to that of 2009. The 2016 vintage is a "classic" vintage, similar to 2011, and had a late harvest, near the end of September, which was the latest in decades. It was one month later than the 2015 vintage, and it also had the hottest summer in a long time. 2016 is a vintage for Beaujolais lovers, offering freshness, bright red fruit flavors, a lighter body, and good acidity. The 2016 vintage wines should now be on the market and they are well worth seeking out.

"For the Duboeuf brothers, the only right Pouilly-Fuissé was a perfect Pouilly-Fuissé: bright gold with glints of green, mellow, richly redolent of ripe fruit, grilled almonds and nuts, but at the same time balanced with enough of the citric touch of acidity to prevent it from turning soft and flabby."
----I'll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World's Most Popular Wine by Rudolph Chelminski

We began the tasting with three white wines from the Mâconnais region, where Duboeuf was born and raised. The Mâconnais region, which has a vinicultural history extending back at least to the ancient Romans, is in the south of Burgundy, west of the Saône river, and it is well known for its Chardonnay wines.

We began with a 2015 Pouilly-Fuisse ($34.99), part of the Flower label, and only 5000 cases of this wine were made. It is produced from 100% Chardonnay and has a 13.5% ABV. It was rich and crisp, with tasty flavors of green apple and pear, salted nuts, a hint of spice, and a lengthy finish. This would pair well with lobster, or maybe even a lobster roll.

The 2016 Emile Beranger Pouilly-Fuisse ($34.99), with only 1000 cases available, is an homage to the winemaker's father. The vineyards are on soil with lots of clay and limestone, and it is said that,
"Soil is in love as it sticks to your sole." Made from 100% Chardonnay,  and with a 13% ABV, about 10% of the wine was aged in new French oak. It was even richer that the Pouilly-Fuisse, with good acidity, delicious flavors of green apple, pear, and vanilla, with some floral notes. Again, another wine that would do well with lobster.

My favorite of the three was the 2016 Domaine les Chenevieres, Macon-Villages ($21.99), with 5000 cases available. The family estates go back about 200 years and they vinify each parcel of their vineyard separately. Made from 100% Chardonnay, with vines that are over 20 years old, this wine has a 12.5% ABV and saw only stainless steel. It has an interesting and fresh taste, lots of crispness with flavors of green apple and citrus, with a backbone of minerality, and a lingering finish. It was suggested this would go well with goat cheese, and I think it would also pair well with many types of seafood. A very good value at this price point.

With these wines, we had a Tarte Flambée Classic, kind of an Alsace-style pizza, topped with onion and bacon. It was delicious, with a crisp flatbread and plenty of toppings, and went well with the wines, especially the Domaine les Chenevieres.

I also enjoyed the Escargot en Cocotte, snails in garlic butter, though I think they went better with the red wines, though the Domaine les Chenevieres was a good pairing too, helping to cut through the richness of the dish.

"... the wine he loves is a reflection of what the gamay grape gives best when it is handled by a skillful vigneron: a clearly defined rush of fruit reminiscent of fresh-picked red berries, jamlike in the richer crus, but still totally dry, marked with the refreshing nip of acidity that adds the necessary body to its soft tannins."
----I'll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World's Most Popular Wine by Rudolph Chelminski

Moving onto the red wines, we began with a Flower label, the 2015 Beaujolais-Villages ($12.99), with about 90,000 cases produced. Made from 100% Gamay, it has a 13.5 % ABV, and it was a given a slight chill before we tasted it. The wine is light-bodied, with plenty of tasty red and black fruit flavors, and a hint of spice, especially on the finish. It is easy-drinking and delicious, a fine summer wine which is very food friendly as well. A pizza and burger wine.

Moving onto the Cru wines, the first is the 2016 Domaine de Quatre Vents ($21.99) from the Fleurie Cru. This region is well known for its pink granite soils, which make the vines go deep into the soil, and wines from this region tend to have a floral aspect to them. Duboeuf has worked with this producer since the 1950s. Made from 100% Gamay, with a 12.5% ABV, this wine is aged in new French oak for about 8 months. On the nose, the aroma of violets is noticeable and on the palate, those floral elements are found as well. There are also pleasing red and black fruit flavors, notes of baking spices and vanilla, and some white pepper. The tannins are silky, the finish is lengthy and it is a very pleasant wine.

The 2016 Chateau des Capitans ($21.99), from the Julienas Cru, is the only estate in Beaujolais that is actually owned by the Duboeuf family. The name of the Cru is derived from Julius Caesar, and their wines are noted for their richness and spice. The chateau is about 300 years old, and there are 10 hectares of vineyards around the house, with another 2 hectares elsewhere. Made from 100% Gamay (from vines over 50 years old), with a 13.5% ABV, a small portion of this wine is aged in new French oak for about 8 months. This was a bit bigger of a wine than the Fleurie, but still elegant and silky, with delicious red fruit flavors and more subtle spices notes. There was plenty of complexity and a lengthy, satisfying finish.

My favorite of the reds was the 2016 Jean Ernest Descombes ($21.99), from the Morgon Cru. The wines from this cru tend to possess an earthy character, reminiscent of Burgundy. It is said to have the "fruit of Beaujolais and the charm of Burgundy." In general, most of my favorite Beaujolais wines come from this Cru. The Descombes estate was the first grower that Duboeuf started working with, back in 1968, when he started Les Vins George Duboeuf. Made from 100% Gamay (vines from 50-100 years old), with a 13% ABV, this wine was vinified and aged in cement tanks. It possesses a captivating aroma, one that quickly lures you into the bottle. The red and black fruit flavors are intense, with crisp acidity, spice notes, and an earthy undertone. It is elegant and complex, intriguing and delicious. Highly recommended, especially at this price point.

With the reds, I enjoyed a Croque Madame, a tasty fried ham and cheese sandwich topped by two eggs, and accompanied by French fries. As a fan of these sandwiches, I was pleased to find this was one of the better ones I've eaten.

“He’s the James Bond of the Beaujolais,” said Bocuse."
--Chef Paul Bocuse, referring to Georges Duboeuf, in I'll Drink to That: Beaujolais and the French Peasant Who Made It the World's Most Popular Wine by Rudolph Chelminski

Break out of your misconceptions about Beaujolais and explore the diversity of their wines. Let Georges Duboeuf be your guide to some of the best wines of the region and learn more about the Crus of this area. These are wines that belong on your table, whether on their own or paired with food. Enjoy them year round, and I'm sure you'll find plenty of reasons to drink them this summer.

Rant: A Flawed Greek Festival

Where's the Greek wines?

Yesterday, I visited a local Greek festival, interested to check out their Greek cuisine and wines. There were gyros and souvlaki, pastitsio and moussaka, loukoumades and baklava. A smorgasbord of Greek cuisine offerings. However, there were a just few wines displayed, and only one of them was Greek, an Agioritiko, the others being from California. Not displayed, though offered on their drinks menu, was a Retsina too.

Why would you offer California wines at a Greek festival???

The festival was intended to showcase and celebrate Greek culture, and I believe that should extend to the wines they offer as well. There is no reason why they couldn't offer only Greek wines at the festival. There are plenty of inexpensive, but tasty, Greek wines available if cost was an issue. And the attendees, many who are Greek, aren't there to enjoy a taste of California. They are there for a taste of Greece. As was I.

I've long been a passionate advocate for Greek wines, having written over 25 articles, and you can find links to all of those posts in All About Greek Wines & Spirits. There are so many reasons why you should drink Greek wines and we need to expose more consumers to the wonders of those wines. So, at a Greek festival, which is open to the public, it would be an excellent opportunity to showcase the intriguing wines of Greece rather than the wines of California. It could have been a teaching moment, to share the tastes of Greece, their unique indigenous grapes.

This would also apply to any other cultural festival, where they should be proud to offer only the drinks of their country or region. Whether the festival was Italian or Spanish, German or Chilean, there isn't a need to sell California wines when all of those regions produce an ample supply of delicious wines that reflect their heritage.

It is a simple thing, for a cultural festival to embrace their wines. A Greek festival should offer only Greek wines. Let's hope future festivals better understand this easy concept.

Animal Alcohol: Lamb Wine, Pigeon Blood Wine, Spirit of Goat & More

You might have enjoyed a Bloody Mary cocktail with a slice of bacon or even a chunk of lobster. Or maybe you've sipped a fine Pechuga Mezcal, where some type of meat (such as chicken, turkey, deer, goat, cow, pig, rabbit and even iguana) is used in the distillation process. You might also have seen bacon-infused bourbon or smoked salmon vodka. There is no shortage of people willing to blend meat and alcohol. In Asia, they have been using animal products in alcohol production for hundreds of years.

Some of the first mentions of "Lamb Wine" connected to China and the Tartars appear to be from Jesuit missionaries during the the late 17th and early 18th centuries. This occurred during the 61 year long reign of the Kangxi Emperor, the fourth emperor of the Qing dynasty. He was the longest reigning emperor in Chinese history and considered one of their greatest. The information on Lamb Wine is scant, and sometimes contradictory.

In The general history of China. Containing a geographical, historical, chronological, political and physical description of the empire of China, Chinese-Tartary, Corea, and Thibet by Jean Baptiste Du Halde (a French Jesuit), there is mention that the Chinese refer to "lamb wine" as Kau-yang-tsyew, and it might have originated with the Tartars. It is allegedly a very strong and nutritive drink but there isn't any information on how it is produced.

A General Description of China, Volume 2 by Abbe Grosier mentions that the Tartars make lamb wine, and that Emperor Kangxi used to drink it sometimes. Abbe also describes lamb wine, "It is very strong; but has a disagreeable smell. The same may be said of a kind of spirits procured from the flesh of sheep." It is interesting that there appears to be both a lamb wine and a spirit made from sheep. That distinction is mentioned in other references as well.

A New General Collection of Voyages And Travels Consisting Of The Most Esteemed Relations, Which Have Been Hitherto Published In Any Language: (published in 1747) stated that there is a strong spirit, made with mutton, which Emperor Kangxi enjoyed, though most other people, except for Tartars, felt it had a disagreeable taste. There is also a lamb wine, known as Kau-yang-tsyew, which is made in the Province of Shēn-si. It too is said to be very strong and have a disagreeable smell. None of it is exported outside the country.

In The History of Alcohol in the Far East - China, Japan, Philippines, Islands of the Pacific, by Emerson, Edward Randolph, there is mention of a spirit produced from sheep, and that the method of production is a unknown to Europeans. There is note that the alcohol originated with the Tartars, and a clear difference is delineated between lamb wine and the sheep spirit. Emperor Kangxi allegedly promoted the manufacture of lamb wine as it was one of his favorite drinks, though many other Chinese disliked it.

There is a question as to how the lamb wine is produced, as mentioned in China: Its Costume, Arts, Manufactures, &c, Volumes 3-4 by M. Bretin (1812). The book states, "...wine, which is made in the province of Chen-Si, and which is named Cao-Yang-Tsieou, or Lamb-Wine. It is not very clear how lamb's flesh can be employed in making wine." I'll also note this provides an alternative spelling to the previous term of Kau-yang-tsyew. 

A U.S. newspaper even reported about Lamb Wine though they had little to add, except that it was apparently made with milk. The Evening Star (Washington, D.C.), February 18, 1912 published, "..., while another drink is 'kau-yang-tsyew,' or lamb wine. This is made from a young lamb and milk, and is said to be exceedingly intoxicating." The Tartars are also known for an alcoholic beverage called Kumiss, which is basically fermented mare's milk, so the use of milk in the "lamb wine" isn't much of a stretch.

There is an older source which provides more guidance and detail on the production of lamb wine, and which includes the use of milk. In Miscellanies: Stories and Essays, Volume 3 by John Hollingshead (1874), "The Mantchoo Tartars, for example, the conquerors of China, prepare a wine of a very peculiar nature from the flesh of lambs, either by fermenting it, reduced to a kind of paste, with the milk of their domestic animals, or bruising it to a pulpy substance with rice. When properly matured, it is put into jars and then drawn off as occasion requires, and it has the reputation of being very strong and nourishing. Whatever remains after supplying domestic wants is exported into China or Corea under the name of lamb wine. The Chinese term for this liquor is Kan-yang-tsyew, and it is as great a favourite with the emperors as sherry was with George the Fourth." This also shows that this version is merely fermented and not distilled, though there is other evidence of the distilled version.

In Beverages, Past and Present: An Historical Sketch of Their Production, Together with a Study of the Customs Connected with Their Use, Volume 1 by Edward Randolph Emerson (1908) we find that the lamb wine is distilled. "The Chinese are indebted to the Tartars for their kau-yang-tsyew or lamb wine. According to the tales of ancient travellers, the method of making this beverage, which is described as being pleasant to the taste and remarkably wholesome, was to dress a young lamb as for cooking, then by gently pounding the flesh gradually make it into a pulp. It is then placed in milk and allowed to ferment, after which it is carefully distilled. It is a very intoxicating beverage and its use is greatly restricted. At one time it was the favourite drink of the Emperors, but, on the whole, it cannot be said to have had the general indorsement of the people." It seems that based on the number of comments of the strength of the alcohol, it is possible the distilled version may have been the more common. If so, this is almost like a Chinese version of Pechuga Mezcal.

In India, they have their own versions of a Pechuga Mezcal-like drink, where they distill alcohol using the meat of various animals. In a source I already mentioned above, Miscellanies: Stories and Essays, Volume 3 by John Hollingshead (1874), there is mention of these spirits. "Of a similar description, perhaps, is the spirit made at Surat, denominated spirit of mutton, spirit of deer, spirit of goat, which derives its name from the practice of throwing into the still a joint of mutton, a haunch of venison, or a quarter of a goat." Surat is a large port city in India. It appears they use at least three different meats to make their spirits, placing them into a still like Mexicans would do to produce Pechuga.

Another source, A Book of Bombay by James Douglas (1883), adds some information about these spirits. "In 'addition to these, Grose tells us of three drinks which now burst upon the bibulous world of Bombay with astonishing effect. The three viands which now divided public attention were the spirit of Deer, the spirit of Mutton, and the spirit of Goat, to such marvellous ingenuity are men driven to invent new names for liquors to quench their thirst. These drinks were in great vogue, and the way they got their names was this: - A haunch of venison, a joint of mutton, or a quarter of goat was thrown into the vat when the arrack was being distilled, and while correcting its fiery nature, imparted a new flavour which was considered mighty fine. The blend of each at these spirits was different; every man had his favourite, some the one, some the other, the deer no doubt from its wild gout, outrunning the other animal spirits in the chase." It mentions the same three animals, though this time includes the nature of the spirit, arrack, a common alcohol in India and which can be made from a variety of ingredients.

Returning to China, the Uighur people of the Xinjiang region have their own wine-making tradition which may extend back to at least the 7th century, if not earlier. They produced a wine known as Museles, to which they add a variety of ingredients, from saffron and cloves, to pigeon blood, pigeon meat or lamb. The museles would also be aged for a couple months in ceramic vats. The Express Tribune, June 4, 2015 mentioned that the wine is, "Deep red, its unusual ingredients give it a pungent, musty nose and a sweet-sour, spiced taste, akin to a vermouth." The Uighur view museles more as a medicine than an alcohol. The Uighur still produce museles in their villages, and it is likely some still add animal meat or blood to their wine, though it isn't commercially available.

What are your thoughts on the addition of meat to wine or spirits?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
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1) As temperatures start to heat up, the mixologists behind the bar at Sumiao Hunan Kitchen (SHK) in Kendall Square are cooling things down with a collection of refreshing cocktails in town available now through the end of August.

Highlighting the essence of summertime with their bright colors, tropical flavors and fruity garnishes, the ice-cold drinks in the spotlight at Sumiao this summer include the Watermelon Martini blended with gin, fresh watermelon puree, Midori, fresh lemon juice & mint leaves ($12); the J4JPN, a subtle combination of shochu, fresh lemon juice, lychee juice, ginger liqueur and apple liqueur ($10); the Blueberry Patch made with Stoli blueberry, lemonade, lemon juice, elderflower and blue curacao ($10); and Sumiao’s Pink Lemonade which just made summertime’s sweetest drink even tarter combining rosé, limoncello, grapefruit vodka, fresh lemon juice, grenadine and sprite ($8).

For those on board with the coconut craze and seeking more hydrating options sans alcohol, SHK’s mocktail list has three sweet and creamy newcomers: the Coco Matchatte with soy milk, coconut cream and matcha tea ($7); the Island Limeade which combines housemade limemade and coconut cream ($6.50); and the Watermelon on the Beach made with fresh watermelon puree, coconut cream and coconut water ($6.50).

2) Share Our Strength Founder and CEO Billy Shore; Taste of the Nation’s distinguished chef council including: Tony Maws, Joanne Chang, Jody Adams, and Andy Husbands; Taste of the Nation’s 2018 emcee, Food Network and HGTV personality Taniya Nayak, and hundreds of Boston food enthusiasts will gather for one delicious night to raise funds for the No Kid Hungry campaign.

On Tuesday, June 5th, from 7pm-9:30pm (VIP admission at 6pm), Boston’s most celebrated culinary fundraiser, Taste of the Nation for No Kid Hungry, will return to Cruiseport Boston (1 Black Falcon Avenue, Boston). The annual tasting event, emceed by Taniya Nayak of the Food Network’s “Restaurant Impossible” and HGTV’s “House Hunters”, and led by a distinguished chef council, brings together Boston’s culinary tastemakers to provide guests with scrumptious bite-size fare, craft cocktails, and desserts of all kinds in an effort to end childhood hunger.

As one in five children in this country struggles with hunger, including more than 270,000 kids in MA, No Kid Hungry works tirelessly to lessen these statistics through fundraising events like Taste of the Nation. Boston’s 2017 Taste of the Nation for No Kid Hungry raised over $145,000 for the cause.

This year’s Taste of the Nation features over 60 participating restaurants, including: UNI; Boston Chops; Neptune Oyster; Tapestry; Davio's; Citrus & Salt; The Smoke Shop BBQ; Craigie on Maine; Michael's Deli; SRV; Toro; Flour Bakery & Café; MIDA; Tiger Mama; Bar Mezzana; Gracie's; and Oak & Rowan.

Tickets are $95 for general admission and $150 for VIP admission. 100% of the proceeds benefit the No Kid Hungry campaign. To purchase tickets, or for more information, please visit: https://ce.nokidhungry.org/events/boston-taste-nation.

An Odyssey Greek Wine Tasting with Cava Spiliadis

"Wine can of their wits the wise beguile, Make the sage frolic, and the serious smile."
--The Odyssey, Book XIV, by Homer

In the epic poem, The Odyssey, Homer told the story of the warrior Odysseus, who spent ten long years returning home from the Trojan War. Now, the term "odyssey" generally refers to any long and epic journey, and its nature can take many different forms. Recently, Cava Spiliadis, an importer of Greek estate wines, engaged in its own Odyssey, covering eight cities in the U.S., presenting a variety of wine events, from winemaker dinners to consumer tastings. The idea was to showcase their portfolio, Greek wines from nine family-run wineries, and their last stop on their Odyssey was in Boston.

Cava Spiliadis chose to hold a consumer tasting event in Boston, the venue being Post 390, and 100% of the ticket sales were donated to the Boys and Girls Club of Boston. The nine wineries at the event were divided into three regions, including Northern Greece (Ktima Gerovassiliou, Ktima Biblia Chora, & Domaine Katsaros); Peloponnese (Ktima Driopi, Ktima Tselepos, & Ktima Parparoussis) and the Greek islands (Canava Chrissou, Venetsanos Winery, & Rhous Winery). I attended the event as a media guest, sampling a few dozen wines, and overall I was impressed with what I found. Excellent wines, intriguing indigenous grapes, fascinating stories and more. It is wines like these that make me a passionate advocate of Greek wines.  

"King James I. took the trouble to import for his own drinking the strong Greek wines, strange to English palates of the seventeenth century, which had once been sufficiently abundant in the cellars of the Knight Templar.”
--The Pulaski Citizen (Tennessee), September 18, 1873

Established in 2007, Cava Spiliadis is the creation of George Spiliadis, the son of famed Estiatorio Milos restaurateur Costas Spiliadis. As their web state states, their portfolio contains, "From small family run domaines with limited production to larger estates breaking new ground, discovering unique blends and working with ancient varieties, Cava Spiliadis Collection brings you only the very best from Greece." As I mentioned above, the portfolio includes nine, family-run wineries, which are also dedicated to certified sustainable and/or organic viticulture. The number of wineries in the portfolio is unlikely to change, as Spiliadis works on expanding distribution across the U.S. The portfolio isn't stagnant though, as the wineries are working on new projects, so new products will eventually be released.

At the tasting event, I had a chance to speak with George Spiliadis, to ask him some questions about his portfolio as well as Greek wines in general. George is a charming personality, and it is clear he has a deep passion for Greek wines. That was especially evident when we discussed the reasons for George entering the wine industry. George stated that it is more important to understand why someone does something, rather than understanding what they do. That is a thought provoking sentiment, one I've long held myself. Plenty of people sell wine, yet what truly separates them are the reasons they do so, which have a significant impact on how they go about everything.

For example, Wine Seller #1 may possesses a mercenary attitude, seeking to maximize his profits above all else. He will sell only wines he knows that are popular, wines which will sell out quickly and which almost sell themselves. He doesn't care about niche wines or anything more unique. He doesn't want to spend his time trying to hand sell those wines when he could stock other wines which fly off his shelves. Wine Seller #2 may be a more passionate advocate for wine, seeking to expand the palates of his consumers, to showcase delicious and fascinating wines, even if they might be unfamiliar to many consumers. Sure, he wants to make money, but that isn't his primary motivation.

Would you rather buy wine from Wine Seller #1 or #2?

“For all the wine in Greece has resin put in it, as it had in the days of Homer. You cannot get a mouthful of wine in Athens without an accompanying dose of tar. When you ask why this inhuman custom is kept up, you are told it I done for medicinal purposes; that it prevents the rheumatism."
--The New Orleans Daily Democrat, October 2, 1877

As you can see in the above quote, Greek wines once had a very negative reputation in certain circles. George wants to show people another side of Greece, to change their perceptions about the nature of Greek wine. He wants to make people aware that Greek wines are as good as wines from any other region in the world. Since 2007, George believes he has had some success and progress, but there is still plenty more to do, especially with the general public.

Consumer education is an important objective, and George stated that consumers shouldn't feel intimidated by the strange names of indigenous grapes. What is significant is what is in the glass, how the wine tastes. On their own, a consumer might not purchase a Greek wine, with a strange grape name, because they know little about that wine. However, a wine store employee can often persuade a consumer to take a chance on such a Greek wine, giving them knowledge and reasons why they should drink the wine. If the consumer enjoys the wine, they are more likely to explore other Greek wines.

“There are many varieties of Greek wine, but almost all are strong and fiery and are tempered with water when they are drank. Wine cost only a trifle (about 8 cents per quart of excellent quality), but is seldom taken to excess.”
--The Mineola Monitor (Texas), August 4, 1888 "

It is also important to make Greek wines more common in mainstream restaurants. In the Boston area, there are several Greek restaurants with impressive Greek wine lists, but it is far more difficult to find Greek wines in non-Greek restaurants. George suggested that Greek wines should be instituted into more by-the-glass programs at these non-Greek restaurants, to make them seem less exotic and more commonplace. If consumers start to see Greek wines available at Italian, French and Japanese restaurants, or steakhouses and burger joints, they are more apt to give those wines a try.

When I asked George about his particular portfolio, I questioned him about the reasons consumers should be interested in his wines. George replied that the wineries represented "quality without compromise" and also had good geographical representation. In addition, the portfolio had a good representation of indigenous grapes, including some wineries which were especially instrumental in saving or promoting certain indigenous grapes. These includes Ktima Tselepos (Moschofilero), Ktima Gerovassiliou (Malagousia), Ktima Parparoussis (Sideritis), Domaine Katsaros (Xinomavro), Rhous Winery (Vidiano & Moschato Spinas), and Ktima Biblia Chora (an unknown grape variety).

“Dr. Landerer writes to the Drug News that the Greek wines are prepared from pure grape juice, and are the strongest of all wines—their percentage of alcohol being from 10 to 16. They are thought to be well adapted for the improvement of American and European wines. The Restinat wines, which are drunk by hundreds of thousands of people in Greece and Asia Minor, have been known from the days of Homer. The Brazilians have begun to import these wines largely. The fruitfulness of the Greek vines is accounted for by the fact that they remained free from phylloxera.”
--Wheeling Sunday Register (West Virginia), December 28, 1884

Post 390 provided a delicious spread of foods for the tasting event, which is especially beneficial at a consumer event where most of them won't spit the wines they taste. There was a good showing for the event but it wasn't overly crowded so you didn't have to wait long at any table to get a sample of wine. From the conversations I overheard, a fair number of the consumers knew little about Greek wines and were pleasantly surprised to find how much they enjoyed the wines. I heard very little negativity, and most of that seemed more a matter of simple preference.

I tasted almost exclusively Greek wines made from indigenous grapes, as I feel they can often best showcase a region and its terroir. Plus, I am fascinated by many of these grapes, some which extend back thousands of years and others with intriguing stories behind them. I found plenty of diversity in the wines I tasted, a myriad of styles and flavor profiles. They were generally food-friendly, very approachable, and quite delicious. The quality of these wines was high, they were priced fairly, and should appeal to most consumers.

“The wines of Greece and Hungary partake of the character of California wines. They are fruity in taste.”
--Pacific Rural Press (California), March 15, 1873

We'll begin our exploration of Greek wines in Northern Greece with the wineries of Ktima Biblia Chora, Ktima Gerovassiliou, and Domaine Katsaros. 

As for Ktima Biblia Chora, I previously reviewed their 2011 Ktima Biblia Chora Biblinos, and that article will provide you with information and background on the winery. I'll also note that their vineyards are certified organic. The 2014 Areti White, made from 100% Assyrtiko, was fermented in stainless steel and spent about 4 months on the lees. It was aromatic, crisp and fresh, with tasty citrus and mineral notes. A fine wine for the summer wine or paired with seafood. The 2010 Areti Red, made from 100% Agiorgitiko, was fermented in stainless steel and aged for about 12 months in small French oak barrels (30% new). I found this wine to be dark and elegant, with plum and black cherry flavors, some minerality, and hints of spice throughout. With a long, satisfying finish, this was an impressive wine, one which would pair well with grilled meats.

The 2016 Biblinos Rosé, made from 100% of the same unknown grape used in the Biblinos, is also fermented in stainless steel. It was also crisp, dry and fresh, with more subtle red fruit flavors enhanced by some savory notes. This would also be a fine summer wine, and would pair well with many different foods. Quite delicious!

As for Ktima Gerovassiliou, I also previously reviewed their 2013 Ktima Gerovassiliou Avaton, and that article will provide you with information and background on the winery. At the Odyssey event, I got to taste a newer vintage, the 2015 Avaton, and my prior tasting notes are applicable here as well. I didn't detect any significant differences between the two vintages, except that the fruit in the 2015 was a bit more prominent. It is an amazing wine and highly recommended!

The 2016 Malagousia is produced from a grape that was rescued from near extinction back in 1975. The winery had a small amount of vines that they used to plant more, to ensure this grape's survival. And we should all be glad for that as it makes an excellent wine. Some of the grapes are fermented in while another portion is fermented in French oak, the wine also is matured on the lees for a fw months. This was a compelling white wine, fresh and crisp, with tastes of pear, grapefruit, lemon and jasmine. There is a pleasant richness to the wine, and it would be delicious on its own, or paired with seafood. One of my favorite white wines of the event. The 2009 Malagousia Late Harvest, made from grapes that were left on the vine to over ripen, is not made every year, and the last two vintages were the 2012 and 2015. It is vinified in French oak, and then aged for 3 years in that same oak. At only 13% ABV, this makes for an intriguing dessert wine. It has a mild sweetness, well balanced by its acidity, and is presents as both subtle and elegant. Complex flavors of dried fruits and honey, mild citrus and wisps of spice. Bring on a cheese plate and I'd be very happy.

As for Domaine Katsaros, I also previously reviewed their 2014 Ktima Ktsaros Valos, and that article will provide you with information and background on the winery. I tasted their 2014 Valos again, and my thoughts were largely the same. In some respects, it reminds me of Pinot Noir, more Oregon than California. It is another wine that is delicious on its own, but will also pair well with a variety of foods, from grilled meats to salmon.

“In Greece the Corinto vine has been the leading agricultural interest. It is planted on 172,000 acres, and the average annual product is 250,000,000 pounds. But since the limitation of the export to the United States, its place is being taken by wine grapes, and Greek wines are assuming considerable importance. The wine vineyards now exceed the Corinto vineyards, as they occupy 333,000 acres, and the wine export in 1904 was 457,259 hectolitres. Of the total product 80% is consumed in Greece."
--The San Francisco Call, February 23, 1906

We'll now move our exploration of Greek wines to the Peloponnese, with the wineries of Ktima Parparoussis, Ktima Driopi, and Ktima Tselepos. 

As for Ktima Parparoussis, I previously attended a wine dinner hosted by the winery's founder, Athanassios (Thanassis) Parparoussis, and got to sample a number of their wines. Check out my prior article, Parparoussis Winery & Greek Delights, for more backgrounds and information on the winery, as well as reviews of some of their wines. Dimitra & Erifyli Parparoussis, daughters of Athanassios, have followed in their father's footsteps, and their wines should make their father very proud.

I got to taste a few newer vintages of wines I'd previously tasted at the wine dinner. The 2016 Ta Dora tou Dionyssou ‘The Gifts of Dionysos’, made from 100% Sideritis, had a similar flavor profile as the earlier vintage, though maybe with a little less brininess. It remained complex and delicious, such a nice melange of flavors, and was one of my favorite white wines of the evening. The 2014 Ta Dora tou Dionyssou ‘The Gift of Dionysos’ CAVA, a blend of 75% Assyrtiko and 25% Athiri, also possessed a similar flavor profile to the prior vintage, though with more prominent fruit and still possessing the same pleasant depth of flavor. The 2012 Nemea Reserve, made from 100% Agiorgitiko, with 60% from old vines, was once again a superb wine, highly recommended, with a bit  less earthiness and more spice than the prior vintage. This wine still reminds me of a fine Burgundy.

I also enjoyed some of their wines which I had not previously tasted. The 2016 Petite Fleur, made from 100% Sideritis, was dry and elegant, with a subtle complexity, interesting savory notes and a lengthy finish. Definitely a wine I would like to savor over the course of several hours, to see how its transforms in the glass over time. The 2016 Assyrtiko, which spends about 5 months on the lees, was dry and crisp, with a pleasant richness, tasty citrus notes, and an underlying minerality. An excellent summer and seafood wine. Bring on some octopus! The 2010 Taos, made from 100% Mavrodaphne, spent about 2 years in the barrel (40% new). With alluring aromatics, the wine was medium bodied with tasty fruit flavors of plum, blackberry and cherry, with some spice notes enhancing the melange. A lengthy, pleasing finish capped off this excellent wine.

Ktima Parparoussis has an excellent portfolio and I'd recommend all of their wines.

Yiannis Tselepos is behind three Greek wineries, two in the Peloponnese and one on Santorini. Ktima Tselepos is located in the Arcadia region, concentrating on Moschofilero, while Ktima Driopi is located in Koutsi, Nemea, concentrating on Agiorgitiko. I previously reviewed the 2015 Ktima Tselepos Nemea Driopi, and that article will provide you with more information and background on the winery.

The 2016 Ktima Tselepos Mantinia, made from 100% Moschofilero, was fermented in staineless steel. It was aromatic, dry and crisp with a hint of effervescence. On the palate there were tasty flavors of citrus, accented with a touch of herb. A fine summer wine. The 2016 Ktima Driopi Rosé, made from 100% Agiorgitiko, had about 18 hours of skin contact. Dry and crisp, it was more savory, with subtle red fruit flavors. Great for summer, it is also an excellent food wine. I was most impressed with the 2013 Ktima Driopi Nemea Reserve, made from 100% Agiorgitiko and which spent about 12 months aging in new French oak. This was a superb wine of great depth and complexity. Rich black fruits, dark spice, a touch of herb, well integrated tannins, and a lingering finish. So much going on in this wine. Highly recommended and one of my favorites of this tasting.

“Some authorities, however, call Greek wine a mistake instead of a product. Beside a glass of Greek resin wine, they declare, the hemlock cup that Socrates drank was a delicious beverage.”
--Evening Star (Washington, D.C.), July 24, 1930

We'll end our exploration of Greek wines in the Greek Islands, with the wineries of Canava Chrissou, Venetsanos Winery, and Rhous Winery. 

The third winery of Yiannis Tselepos is Canava Chrissou, located on the island of Santorini. The 2016 Santorini, made from 100% Assyrtiko, was fermented in stainless steel. The wine was fresh, crisp, with pleasing flavors of grapefruit and lemon, with an underlying minerality. Great choice for summer or seafood. I was especially intrigued by their 2016 Laoudia, also made from 100% Assyrtiko, but the fermentation was conducted in an amphora, and it was also aged for about 10 months in that amphora. The Assyrtiko vines are also quite old vines, over 100 years. The wine was complex and interesting, much more savory in nature, though subtle fruit notes were in the background. Minerality was still present and the lengthy finish intrigued my palate. Highly recommended.

The Venetsanos Winery, established in 1947, is also located on the island of Santorini and is one of the oldest wineries on the island. It is also the only winery on the island that is 100% estate grown, possessing about 10 hectares of vineyards. The 2015 Santorini, made from 100% Assyrtiko, is fermented in stainless steel and spends about 4 months on the lees. Fresh and crisp, tasty and complex, this wine possesses a nice blend of citrus flavors, minerality and a briny note. Easy drinking, this is a great summer wine and would pair well with seafood. The 2015 Nykteri, a blend of 95% Assyrtiko, 3% Aidani, and 2% Athiri, spent about 4 months in French barrique. It too was fresh and very crisp, with lots of depth and complexity, citrus flavors, minerality and a lengthy finish. Simply delicious and one of my top white wines of the event. The 2016 Mandilaria, made from 100% Mandilaria, was fermented 60% in French barrels and 40% in stainless steel. Aromatic, the wine had a light body, black cherry and raspberry flavors with some spice notes and a touch of herb. It reminded me in some respects to Pinot Noir.

Rhous Winery is located on the island of Crete, in the village of Houdetsi, which is within the Appellation Peza, the largest wine-producing region in the Heraklion Prefecture. The family run winery has an organic vineyard of about 7.5 hectares and was instrumental in saving two indigenous grapes, Vidiano and Moschato Spinas.

The 2016 Estate White, a blend of 50% Muscat of Spina and 50% Vidiano, was fermented in stainless and underwent battonage for a month. Bright and crisp, there were pleasant flavors of lemon and grapefruit, enhanced by Muscat spices. The 2016 Estate Red, a blend of 90% Kotsifali and 10% Syrah, was fermented in stainless steel. It was aromatic and fruity, with subtle spice and herb notes. An easy drinking and tasty red wine.

The 2014 Skipper White, a blend of 70% Vidiano and 30% Plyto, was fermented in 60% stainless steel and 40% in new French barrique, with a final battonage for 4-5 months. The Skipper line includes their more terroir-driven wines. Vidiano is a more herbal grape, while Plyto, an up and coming grape, has good structure, nice acidity, and ages well. The wine was very aromatic, lots of herbs and underlying fruit, and on the palate it was complex and interesting, with excellent acidity, subtle citrus notes, herbal accents and a long finish. Another of my top favorite white wines of the event.

And now you have plenty more reasons to Drink Greek Wine!

“Teddy and Gus Pappas of Sacramento, the former a taxi operator and saloon owner, have been in court here of today before Superior Judge W. A. Anderson attempting to force an appeal of the judgment of the justice's court against them, them, levying heavy fines and a jail sentence for Teddy upon charges of extensive bootlegging. They were arrested here last summer and about 25 barrels of Greek wine in storage at Elkhorn, half way between Woodland and Sacramento, were seized. Both were sentenced to pay a fine of $5OO, with a three-month jail sentence added to Teddy Pappas’ punishment. The appeal is to obtain a dismissal of the judgments on the ground that the county ordinance is defective and the wine illegally seized."
--Sacramento Union, January 5, 1922