Although I was aware of this dish, It was recently brought to the forefront of my attention by Tina Caputo, a food & wine writer, who penned an article in 2013, The Mystery of Almond Boneless Chicken. A former Michigan resident, Tina had difficulty finding ABC when she moved to San Francisco. She decided to seek out the origins of this dish, to ascertain whether it originated in Michigan or not. What she found, tended to indicate the dish might have originated in New York, and definitely was not limited to only Michigan. Tina's article also provided a recipe for ABC, something you could prepare at home.
The article intrigued me, but I wanted to see more specifics, more details and dates of the presence of this dish across the U.S. and in Canada. When I did some of my own initial research, I found a number of other articles about the origins of ABC, yet they relied more on vague allegations than actually providing documentation and evidence. Some sources claimed the dish originated in Ohio, possibly as far back as the 1920s. However, most of the articles still felt the definitive origin was unknown.
I conducted my own research, delving primarily through newspaper archives but also accessing some older books, seeking what evidence I could find about the origins of ABC. This wasn't easy as there were numerous search terms that had to be considered. To start, there were the easy terms, like almond chicken and almond boneless chicken, although these dishes were also known as Hong Yon Gai Kow and Hung Yuen Guy Ding. This dish was also known as Boneless Chicken a la Canton, Fried Chicken a la Canton, or simply Chicken a la Canton.
ABC was often referred to as Wor Sue Gai, but it could also be found under a dozen alternate spellings, including: War Shu Gai, Wor Shu Gai, Wor Shui Gai, War Shui Gai, War Su Gai, Wor Su Gai, War Sui Gai, Wor Sui Gai, War Sue Gai, Warr Shui Gai, Warr Sue Gai, and Warr Sui Gai. I might have even missed an alternate spelling.
I have found that the ancestors of ABC extend back to at least 1904, but the term Wor Sue Gai didn't make an appearance until about 1950. With additional research, I've traced ABC back to at least 1936. I haven't definitively determined the inventor of ABC, but have found more evidence to better clarify the issue, with Canada as the front runner for the originator of this dish. More research is warranted, but what I've found so far is quite interesting.
Almond Chicken is a dish that apparently originated in either the U.S. or Canada, a dish created by Chinese restaurants to appeal to their non-Chinese customers. The first reference I found to "almond chicken," from a Chinese restaurant, was a New York periodical from 1904. The Rural New Yorker, September 10, 1904, presented a menu from an unnamed Chinese restaurant in New York.
The next reference to almond chicken was also in 1904, but from a Canadian source. The Province, (Vancouver, B.C.), November 30, 1904, detailed a Chinese banquet, where it was said, “The menu was purely Chinese, and was most palatable.” As the menu included Chop Suey, then it actually consisted of both Chinese and Chinese-American dishes. One of the courses included Hong Yon Gai Kow, almond chicken. This is a different term from the one used in the previous New York reference, but seems likely it was a similar dish.
There was a brief mention of "almond chicken" in the Democrat and Chronicle (NY), February 5, 1905, in an article on Chinese New Year.
In the San Francisco Chronicle, March 31, 1912, there was a lengthy article about a great banquet held at the Chinese Delmonico’s in New York, although the exact name of the restaurant was not provided. This banquet was the annual feast of the Hip Sings Tong, and there were about 350 guests. The feast, which lasted from 3pm-5am, consisted of 88 courses, only 50 which the writer claimed could be easily translated into English. One of the dishes was Fried Chicken with Almonds & Bamboo Shoots. There's no further description, so it's unknown again whether the chicken was battered and fried, or simply fried, such as in a wok. However, it still seems likely it wasn't breaded or battered at this point.
The Springfield Republican (MA), September 27, 1913, in an article about unusual New York restaurant, mentioned that there was a Chinese restaurant, located in the Upper Forties, where the proprietor Bun Jan offered “almond chicken.” The Evening Times (RI), November 20, 1914, also noted a New York Chinese restaurant with “almond chicken.”
One of the first Chinese cookbooks in English presented a recipe for Almond Chicken (Hung Yuen Guy Ding), offering the first fuller description of this dish. The Chinese Cook Book by Shiu Wong Chan (1917), gave a recipe (pictured above) which included boneless chicken, almonds, onions, water chestnuts, mushrooms, and celery. The chicken was not battered, but it was fried and braised, and once complete, it was all topped with a Chinese gravy. So, this dish gets close to ABC, but hadn't evolved to that final point quite yet. This recipe would be reprinted in at least a few newspapers, including in Kansas and California.
Another recipe (pictured above) was printed in the Knoxville Sentinel (TN), April 8, 1921, where the writer had visited Chinese restaurants in Chicago. His recipe was Hung Yuen Guy Ding (almond chicken) and the ingredients included blanched almonds, onions, water chestnuts, mushrooms, celery, and boneless chicken. Again, the chicken was fried and braised, but not breaded or battered, and a cream sauce was used as well. This recipe was reprinted in newspapers across the country, in places including Arizona, Connecticut, Missouri, Delaware, Iowa, Nebraska, New York, Minnesota, Montana, Indiana, Ohio, and Iowa.
The Lincoln Journal Star (NE), May 23, 1921, also presented a recipe for Hung Yuen Guy Ding (almond chicken) and it was slightly different from the Knoxville recipe. Instead of a cream sauce, the recipe called for chicken gravy thickening. This recipe was reprinted in newspapers in Kentucky, Alabama, Illinois, and Texas.
As we see, this basic version of almond chicken was known throughout the country, although it still hadn't evolved into today's version of ABC. This version is a clear ancestor to the modern ABC dish, but who decided to bread or batter the chicken for this dish?
Another alternate term for almond chicken. The Trenton Evening Times (NJ), January 1, 1922, published a restaurant ad for a Chinese/American spot, where their special New Year’s eve dinner included “Boneless Chicken a la Canton.” Based on other references, this was simply a different term for almond chicken.
One more recipe. The Evening Sun (MD), December 1, 1922, offered a ecipe for Hung Yuen Guy Ding (almond chicken.), which was similar to the prior recipes but the gravy was made with a gravy thickened with cornstarch. This recipe was reprinted in newspapers in Ohio, California, Nebraska, New Jersey, Indiana, Oklahoma, Connecticut, Montana, Tennessee, Pennsylvania, and New York.
The Knoxville News-Sentinel (TN), January 3, 1936, printed a recipe for Hung Yuen Guy Ding, (almond chicken), with similar ingredients to the previous recipes, but a variation on the gravy. This recipe's Chinese gravy was made with chicken soup thickened with cornstarch and flavored with chop suey sauce and black pepper. The article also noted that, “This dish is also called chicken a la Canton.”
In Chinatown Inside Out, by Leong Gor Yun (1936), there's a discussion of Chinatown in San Francisco and there is a mention of almond chicken (Hong-yun-guy-ding).
The oldest reference to ABC is in Canada! The Calgary Herald (Alberta, Canada), December 31, 1936, printed the above advertisement, referencing "Breaded Almond Chicken." This is the first time that the dish definitively mentioned breaded chicken, one of the primary components of ABC. Previously, although the chicken in the dish was often fried, it was not breaded of battered. The ad doesn't mention whether gravy was atop this dish or not, but it seems likely when other almond chicken dishes often had gravy.
More Wor Sue Gai mentions. The Lima News (OH), December 14, 1952,September 13, 1953, September 22, 1957, September 21, 1958, and January 18, 1959, also presented an ad for the Nanking Restaurant, offering ”Wor Sue Gai,” although without any description.
Almond Duck? The Herald News (NJ), July 2, 1953, printed a restaurant ad, noting an intriguing variation of Wor Sue Gai, with duck. The ad stated, “We suggest for the hot weather: Wor Sue Opp-Braised Duckling with Crushed Almonds and Spiced Sauce.” Interestingly, the duck was braised, and not said to be breaded or battered.
I have found that the ancestors of ABC extend back to at least 1904, but the term Wor Sue Gai didn't make an appearance until about 1950. With additional research, I've traced ABC back to at least 1936. I haven't definitively determined the inventor of ABC, but have found more evidence to better clarify the issue, with Canada as the front runner for the originator of this dish. More research is warranted, but what I've found so far is quite interesting.
The menu (part of which is presented above) listed Almond Chicken for $1 (粒 雞 仁 杏 = Lì jī rén xìng--which roughly translates as "small pieces of almond chicken"). The dish was not described any further, and it seems doubtful that the chicken was breaded and fried. It's most likely it was tiny pieces of wok-fried chicken, and probably was accompanied by vegetables, and maybe a gravy or sauce.
The next reference to almond chicken was also in 1904, but from a Canadian source. The Province, (Vancouver, B.C.), November 30, 1904, detailed a Chinese banquet, where it was said, “The menu was purely Chinese, and was most palatable.” As the menu included Chop Suey, then it actually consisted of both Chinese and Chinese-American dishes. One of the courses included Hong Yon Gai Kow, almond chicken. This is a different term from the one used in the previous New York reference, but seems likely it was a similar dish.
There was a brief mention of "almond chicken" in the Democrat and Chronicle (NY), February 5, 1905, in an article on Chinese New Year.
In the San Francisco Chronicle, March 31, 1912, there was a lengthy article about a great banquet held at the Chinese Delmonico’s in New York, although the exact name of the restaurant was not provided. This banquet was the annual feast of the Hip Sings Tong, and there were about 350 guests. The feast, which lasted from 3pm-5am, consisted of 88 courses, only 50 which the writer claimed could be easily translated into English. One of the dishes was Fried Chicken with Almonds & Bamboo Shoots. There's no further description, so it's unknown again whether the chicken was battered and fried, or simply fried, such as in a wok. However, it still seems likely it wasn't breaded or battered at this point.
The Springfield Republican (MA), September 27, 1913, in an article about unusual New York restaurant, mentioned that there was a Chinese restaurant, located in the Upper Forties, where the proprietor Bun Jan offered “almond chicken.” The Evening Times (RI), November 20, 1914, also noted a New York Chinese restaurant with “almond chicken.”
The Lincoln Journal Star (NE), May 23, 1921, also presented a recipe for Hung Yuen Guy Ding (almond chicken) and it was slightly different from the Knoxville recipe. Instead of a cream sauce, the recipe called for chicken gravy thickening. This recipe was reprinted in newspapers in Kentucky, Alabama, Illinois, and Texas.
As we see, this basic version of almond chicken was known throughout the country, although it still hadn't evolved into today's version of ABC. This version is a clear ancestor to the modern ABC dish, but who decided to bread or batter the chicken for this dish?
Another alternate term for almond chicken. The Trenton Evening Times (NJ), January 1, 1922, published a restaurant ad for a Chinese/American spot, where their special New Year’s eve dinner included “Boneless Chicken a la Canton.” Based on other references, this was simply a different term for almond chicken.
One more recipe. The Evening Sun (MD), December 1, 1922, offered a ecipe for Hung Yuen Guy Ding (almond chicken.), which was similar to the prior recipes but the gravy was made with a gravy thickened with cornstarch. This recipe was reprinted in newspapers in Ohio, California, Nebraska, New Jersey, Indiana, Oklahoma, Connecticut, Montana, Tennessee, Pennsylvania, and New York.
The Knoxville News-Sentinel (TN), January 3, 1936, printed a recipe for Hung Yuen Guy Ding, (almond chicken), with similar ingredients to the previous recipes, but a variation on the gravy. This recipe's Chinese gravy was made with chicken soup thickened with cornstarch and flavored with chop suey sauce and black pepper. The article also noted that, “This dish is also called chicken a la Canton.”
In Chinatown Inside Out, by Leong Gor Yun (1936), there's a discussion of Chinatown in San Francisco and there is a mention of almond chicken (Hong-yun-guy-ding).
The Canton Chop Suey Parlor opened in 1931, but its unknown whether their Breaded Almond Chicken was on their menu at the start, or rather it was added at a later date. So, ABC is at least 86 years old, and possibly five years older, dependent on when the Canton started offering the dish.
More Canadian evidence. The Vancouver Sun (Vancouver, Canada), May 17, 1937, discussed an upcoming event, the Chinese Evening, which was to be held at the W.K. Oriental Garden restaurant, which opened in 1935. The menu included "breaded almond chicken," and it's interesting to note that it appeared at a fair distance, about 600 miles, from Calgary. How many other Chinese-Canadian restaurants in the western regions of Canada also served this dish?
The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), March 2, 1941, briefly mentioned a local restaurant that served a "delicious" dish of “Fried Chicken a la Canton.”
Wor Sui Gai finally appears, in Texas! In the San Antonio Light (TX), March 7, 1950, there was a discussion of a Chinese New Year's celebration in San Antonio. One dish served for the event was “wor sui gai (boneless chicken with some kind of heavenly sauce rich with Chinese spices).” The description doesn't mention though whether the chicken was breaded or battered or not.
The San Francisco Chronicle (CA), March 2, 1941, briefly mentioned a local restaurant that served a "delicious" dish of “Fried Chicken a la Canton.”
Wor Sui Gai finally appears, in Texas! In the San Antonio Light (TX), March 7, 1950, there was a discussion of a Chinese New Year's celebration in San Antonio. One dish served for the event was “wor sui gai (boneless chicken with some kind of heavenly sauce rich with Chinese spices).” The description doesn't mention though whether the chicken was breaded or battered or not.
"Wor sui gai" roughly translates as "wok-fireed chicken," so the name doesn't necessitate breaded or battered chicken. The chicken could have been prepared similar to the previous almond chicken dishes. However, if the chicken was breaded or battered, this would be the first example of ABC, and in Texas of all places. In addition, why did this new name arise for almond chicken?
This also points out the issue that even if you see Wor Sui Gai, or its alternate spellings, on a restaurant menu, that doesn't necessarily mean it refers to a dish like modern ABC. Unless the item is described in detail on the menu, you cannot be sure of the exact composition of the dish. The dish might have been fried and braised, but still not breaded or battered.
More Canadian references. The Province (B.C., Canada), December 9, 1950, printed a restaurant ad for Ming's, which offers "Breaded Almond Chicken." Then, the Vancouver News-Herald (Vancouver, B.C.), October 7, 1952, offered a recipe for "Almond Boneless Chicken.” This recipe is basically similar to the modern version. The recipe stated, “Remove all the bones from a spring chicken. Season the meat with salt, pepper, garlic juice, and wine. First dip meat in beaten egg and roll in dry flour. Fry in deep hot peanut oil. Sprinkle chopped almond on top after fried meat is chopped into cubes.” There wasn't any mention of a gravy. Did they simply omit to mention the gravy?
Although some feel Michigan or Ohio might have originated ABC, I haven't found any newspaper evidence to support those allegations. However, I've found multiple references to ABC in western Canada, from 1936-1952, so it's a front runner for the originator of this dish. It was first known as "breaded almond chicken," and not Wor Sue Gai, or any of its alternate spellings. Maybe it should have become known as BAC, rather than ABC.
More Wor Sue Gai mentions. The Lima News (OH), December 14, 1952,September 13, 1953, September 22, 1957, September 21, 1958, and January 18, 1959, also presented an ad for the Nanking Restaurant, offering ”Wor Sue Gai,” although without any description.
Almond Duck? The Herald News (NJ), July 2, 1953, printed a restaurant ad, noting an intriguing variation of Wor Sue Gai, with duck. The ad stated, “We suggest for the hot weather: Wor Sue Opp-Braised Duckling with Crushed Almonds and Spiced Sauce.” Interestingly, the duck was braised, and not said to be breaded or battered.
Today, ABC gets all of the attention but maybe ABD, Almond Boneless Duck, needs to become more popular. I definitely would love to see this duck dish. I suspect it can be found at a Chinese restaurant somewhere in the country, and I'll have to seek it out.
The Capital Times (WI), February 23, 1955: also presented a Restaurant ad that stated, “Question: Do You Prefer Wor-Sue-Opp or Sue-Pi-Quet? Don’t know? Aren’t Sure? Or even if you do know, we suggest you attend our Formal Opening.” They asked people to join them to“Sample Unusual Chinese Dishes.” So, the duck version was likely not well known at this time, but it was available in disparate areas, from New Jersey to Wisconsin. And even Florida. The Miami News (FL), August 23, 1955, noted, “Wor Sue Op…It’s Cantonese for Fu Manchu’s pressed duck.”
The Springfield Union (MA), February 10, 1956, mentioned a Chinese New Year celebration at a local restaurant which served Chicken a la Canton. The Evening Sun (MD), April 18, 1956, had a restaurant ad for Wor Shu Gai, stating it was "A Cantonese delicacy of Braised Breast of Chicken with Almonds." Braised, not breaded or battered, which is evidence that not all Wor Sue Gai yet consisted of breaded or battered chicken. The Cincinnati Post (OH), July 7, 1956, briefly mentioned War Sue Gai. The Providence Journal (RI), April 23, 1960, printed a restaurant ad that mentioned, “Try Our Delicious Wor Sue Gai.”
Where's the almonds? The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), January 28, 1961, offered a restaurant review, which stated, “War Sue Gai..half boneless chicken, dipped in egg batter, fried crisp with peanut oil, each piece cut evenly, and topped with caraway seeds and special gravy...” Caraway seeds instead of almonds? A curious difference.
The Keyport Weekly (NJ), June 29, 1961, had a restaurant ad noting, “We specialize in Wor Shu Gau…(Braised boneless fresh chicken with a typical Chinese 5-flavor sauce and crushed almonds on top).” I note again that the chicken was braised here, and not fried as ABC is supposed to be made today. This raises an issue about Wor Shu Gai, and its alternate spellings, that not all of these dishes are the same. Some may include fried, battered chicken but others may not. So, Wor Shu Gai is not always the same dish as ABC. Just because it appears on a menu doesn't mean it is what you think it might be.
In a restaurant review in The Indianapolis Star (IN), December 3, 1961, there's a mention of Wor Sue Gai, “a new pressed chicken item on the menu."The Seattle Daily Times (WA), June 21, 1962, noted a new Chinese restaurant that served “almond boneless chicken.”
Back in Canada, the Calgary Albertan (Alberta, Canada), June 30, 1962, printed a estaurant ad which referenced “Chicken with Almond—Boneless Chicken Fried in Batter with Crushed Almond.”
The El Paso Herald-Post (TX), January 24, 1963, also had a restaurant ad, which referred to Chicken a la Canton. The Courier-Journal (KY). January 13, 1964, published a restaurant ad which stated, “Wor Sue Gai—Selected spring chicken—boned, pressed into water chestnut flour and braised to crispness.”
More Duck! The Asbury Park Press (NJ), March 6, 1964, stated, “Wor su opp (pressed duck), a concoction of breaded spice duckling pressed into water chestnuts, then crisply fried and served with a tangy sauce and crushed almonds.”
The Hartford Courant (CT), May 28, 1964, also had a restaurant advertisement, “Try something new. Wor Shui Gai. Boneless Chicken with Mushrooms, Bamboo Shoots, Waterchestnuts, Crushed Almonds and Chinese Vegetables.” The News-Messenger (OH), February 16, 1965, had a restaurant ad which mentioned “Wor Sue Gai (Chicken)” and “Wor Sue Duck.”
The Chicago Daily News (IL), January 21, 1967, in a restaurant review, noted one dish is “war sui gai (pressed chicken with almonds and ham sauce).” The Edmonton Journal (Alberta, Canada), June 30, 1967, published a restaurant ad mentioning “Crushed Almond Boneless Chicken.”
In the Columbus Evening Dispatch (OH), August 3, 1967, there was an article about the Tai Wan Restaurant which serves War Su Gai, “consisting of boned chicken dipped into a batter and then deep fat fried. It is served over fried rice with a not-too-thick sauce or gravy.” Readers were also seeking a recipe for this dish. We note that this dish was not served over lettuce as many modern ABC dishes. The Columbus Evening Dispatch (OH), September 7, 1967, then presented a recipe from the Tai Wan Restaurant for War Sue Gai, slightly adapted for home cooks. Interestingly, the recipe called for the dish to be served atop shredded lettuce.
The Lima News (OH), September 28, 1967, detailed an anniversary dinner at Chan’s Chinese restaurant, where one dish was “war su gai—steam chicken, boned, dipped in water chestnut flour, deep fried and topped with Chinese vegetables.”
The 1970s would see numerous mentions of Wor Sue Gai, in all its different spellings, and even the Duck version received a few mentions. Many of the references were brief, only the name provided ion a menu or in a restaurant ad. The few descriptions though made it clear that this dish still had its variations across the country.
In the News-Journal (OH), November 30, 1978, a restaurant review mentioned, “One of the best appetizers I’ve ever eaten, the wor sue gai consisted of white meat of chicken dipped in batter and fried. Green onions topped it off with a bit of gravy.” While the Courier-Journal (KY), November 16, 1979, in a restaurant review, mentioned their love for War Sui Gai: “The breast of chicken was particularly juicy and flavorful—though the crust was crisp and hot from the fryer. The mushroom-sauce topping, with chopped green onions and almond slivers, seemed fresh from the cook’s hand.”
During the 1970s and 1980s, Wor Sue Gai, and its various alternative names, could be found in Chinese restaurants all across the country, including Arizona, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma. Tennessee, Texas, Washington and Wisconsin. It seems likely, with the wide extent of the known states, that a number of other states offered this dish as well.
The Capital Times (WI), February 23, 1955: also presented a Restaurant ad that stated, “Question: Do You Prefer Wor-Sue-Opp or Sue-Pi-Quet? Don’t know? Aren’t Sure? Or even if you do know, we suggest you attend our Formal Opening.” They asked people to join them to“Sample Unusual Chinese Dishes.” So, the duck version was likely not well known at this time, but it was available in disparate areas, from New Jersey to Wisconsin. And even Florida. The Miami News (FL), August 23, 1955, noted, “Wor Sue Op…It’s Cantonese for Fu Manchu’s pressed duck.”
The Springfield Union (MA), February 10, 1956, mentioned a Chinese New Year celebration at a local restaurant which served Chicken a la Canton. The Evening Sun (MD), April 18, 1956, had a restaurant ad for Wor Shu Gai, stating it was "A Cantonese delicacy of Braised Breast of Chicken with Almonds." Braised, not breaded or battered, which is evidence that not all Wor Sue Gai yet consisted of breaded or battered chicken. The Cincinnati Post (OH), July 7, 1956, briefly mentioned War Sue Gai. The Providence Journal (RI), April 23, 1960, printed a restaurant ad that mentioned, “Try Our Delicious Wor Sue Gai.”
Where's the almonds? The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), January 28, 1961, offered a restaurant review, which stated, “War Sue Gai..half boneless chicken, dipped in egg batter, fried crisp with peanut oil, each piece cut evenly, and topped with caraway seeds and special gravy...” Caraway seeds instead of almonds? A curious difference.
The Keyport Weekly (NJ), June 29, 1961, had a restaurant ad noting, “We specialize in Wor Shu Gau…(Braised boneless fresh chicken with a typical Chinese 5-flavor sauce and crushed almonds on top).” I note again that the chicken was braised here, and not fried as ABC is supposed to be made today. This raises an issue about Wor Shu Gai, and its alternate spellings, that not all of these dishes are the same. Some may include fried, battered chicken but others may not. So, Wor Shu Gai is not always the same dish as ABC. Just because it appears on a menu doesn't mean it is what you think it might be.
In a restaurant review in The Indianapolis Star (IN), December 3, 1961, there's a mention of Wor Sue Gai, “a new pressed chicken item on the menu."The Seattle Daily Times (WA), June 21, 1962, noted a new Chinese restaurant that served “almond boneless chicken.”
Back in Canada, the Calgary Albertan (Alberta, Canada), June 30, 1962, printed a estaurant ad which referenced “Chicken with Almond—Boneless Chicken Fried in Batter with Crushed Almond.”
The El Paso Herald-Post (TX), January 24, 1963, also had a restaurant ad, which referred to Chicken a la Canton. The Courier-Journal (KY). January 13, 1964, published a restaurant ad which stated, “Wor Sue Gai—Selected spring chicken—boned, pressed into water chestnut flour and braised to crispness.”
More Duck! The Asbury Park Press (NJ), March 6, 1964, stated, “Wor su opp (pressed duck), a concoction of breaded spice duckling pressed into water chestnuts, then crisply fried and served with a tangy sauce and crushed almonds.”
The Hartford Courant (CT), May 28, 1964, also had a restaurant advertisement, “Try something new. Wor Shui Gai. Boneless Chicken with Mushrooms, Bamboo Shoots, Waterchestnuts, Crushed Almonds and Chinese Vegetables.” The News-Messenger (OH), February 16, 1965, had a restaurant ad which mentioned “Wor Sue Gai (Chicken)” and “Wor Sue Duck.”
The Chicago Daily News (IL), January 21, 1967, in a restaurant review, noted one dish is “war sui gai (pressed chicken with almonds and ham sauce).” The Edmonton Journal (Alberta, Canada), June 30, 1967, published a restaurant ad mentioning “Crushed Almond Boneless Chicken.”
In the Columbus Evening Dispatch (OH), August 3, 1967, there was an article about the Tai Wan Restaurant which serves War Su Gai, “consisting of boned chicken dipped into a batter and then deep fat fried. It is served over fried rice with a not-too-thick sauce or gravy.” Readers were also seeking a recipe for this dish. We note that this dish was not served over lettuce as many modern ABC dishes. The Columbus Evening Dispatch (OH), September 7, 1967, then presented a recipe from the Tai Wan Restaurant for War Sue Gai, slightly adapted for home cooks. Interestingly, the recipe called for the dish to be served atop shredded lettuce.
The Lima News (OH), September 28, 1967, detailed an anniversary dinner at Chan’s Chinese restaurant, where one dish was “war su gai—steam chicken, boned, dipped in water chestnut flour, deep fried and topped with Chinese vegetables.”
The 1970s would see numerous mentions of Wor Sue Gai, in all its different spellings, and even the Duck version received a few mentions. Many of the references were brief, only the name provided ion a menu or in a restaurant ad. The few descriptions though made it clear that this dish still had its variations across the country.
For example, the Irving Daily News (TX), February 22, 1976, printed a restaurant ad that noted,“Boneless Chicken Royal. White Meat Chicken, Fried Golden Brown in our Special Batter, Mounted on Chinese Vegetable, Covered with Our Cantonese Mushroom Sauce.” In New York’s Chinese Restaurants by Stan Miller (1977), it noted, “Wor Shu Gai . Lightly breaded and crisply fried succulent chicken is presented on a bed of finely chopped lettuce . The thin brown sauce is slightly sweet ; a very good dish.” The Cincinnati Enquirer (OH), October 12, 1978, in a restaurant review, stated, “war sue gai, a double breast of chicken delicately deep-fried, cut on the bias and served on a bed of bean sprouts with a delicious special sauce.”
In the News-Journal (OH), November 30, 1978, a restaurant review mentioned, “One of the best appetizers I’ve ever eaten, the wor sue gai consisted of white meat of chicken dipped in batter and fried. Green onions topped it off with a bit of gravy.” While the Courier-Journal (KY), November 16, 1979, in a restaurant review, mentioned their love for War Sui Gai: “The breast of chicken was particularly juicy and flavorful—though the crust was crisp and hot from the fryer. The mushroom-sauce topping, with chopped green onions and almond slivers, seemed fresh from the cook’s hand.”
During the 1970s and 1980s, Wor Sue Gai, and its various alternative names, could be found in Chinese restaurants all across the country, including Arizona, California, Colorado, Connecticut, Florida, Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Michigan, New Hampshire, New York, North Carolina, Ohio, Oklahoma. Tennessee, Texas, Washington and Wisconsin. It seems likely, with the wide extent of the known states, that a number of other states offered this dish as well.
Today, Michigan and Ohio might be the centers for ABC, with many of their Chinese restaurants offering the dish, while it may be difficult to find it in other parts of the country. Even though it was known, and existed in many other states during the 1970s and 1980s, it apparently fell out of favor in a number of these places. Thus, as its not readily available in numerous states, people tend to think the dish never existed in their region, although it did a number of years ago.
Canada, as far back at least as 1936, might have been the first to create a modern version of ABC, with breaded chicken, although more research is certainly warranted. If other states want to claim to be the originator, they need to offer concrete evidence, rather than hearsay and old family stories.
(This article has been revised & expanded as of November 16, 2022.)
1 comment:
In Manhattan's Chinatown, one can order both wor shu gai and wor shu opp at old standby Hop Kee. Next door, another old standby, Wo Hop, appears to offer just "wor shu duck." In Brooklyn, I see that a place on Avenue U called Golden Z seems to serve both wor shu gai and wor shu opp. I intend to try this place. I'm from Detroit and grew up eating almond boneless chicken weekly. Still crave it.
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