Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently. **********************************************************
1) Chef & Owner Anthony Caturano is about to reawaken Gravy Sundays at his newly reopened Prezza. Keeping in the longstanding Italian tradition of family and food, “Gravy Sundays” provides Old World-style comfort cuisine this winter. Menu features include the following: Fritto Misto (preparation changes weekly - $14); Tagliatelle & Meatballs (homemade, hand-cut tagliatelle with San Marzano tomatoes and meatballs - $16); and, Chicken Parmigiana (with homemade gnocchi and tomato - $24). Other homestyle signature dishes that Prezza serves up in true “Gravy Sundays” fashion are the Potato Gnocchi a la Bolognese (rustic meat ragout, tomato, porcini cream, Pecorino cheese – appetizer: $15; entrée: $30) and Homemade Meatballs, Sausages & Ribs (tomato, polenta - $26).

For reservations, please call 617-227-1577

2) On Monday, March 18, from 6:30pm-9:30pm, the Joslin Diabetes Center will host its 9th Annual Spoonful of Ginger event to once again benefiting Joslin’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative. It will feature some of Boston’s finest chefs for a food tasting at the beautiful Art of the Americas Wing at the Museum of Fine Arts.

Guests will enjoy an evening of gourmet dishes prepared by some of Boston’s most renowned chefs, including Joanne Chang, Andy Husbands, Ming Tsai, and Jasper White. Proceeds benefit Joslin Diabetes Center’s Asian American Diabetes Initiative (AADI), which strives to enhance the quality of life and health outcomes for the rising number of Asian Americans living with diabetes, as well as working with Joslin in their commitment to finding a cure. At this year’s event, Joslin Diabetes Center will honor Eva and Nick Chau, Dr. C. Ronald Kahn, M.D., and celebrity chef Ming Tsai for their contributions to the AADI’s mission and the Asian American community.

Cost: Tickets are $250 each.

For Tickets: Call 617-309-2512, e-mail Kevin.Hudson@joslin.harvard.edu or visit: www.joslin.org/ginger

3) On Wednesday, February 27, from 6:30pm-8pm, Alma Nove invites food and wine lovers alike to join them for “A Taste of Tuscany” – a fun and informative tasting event which explores a selection of wines paired with cuisine from the Tuscan region of Italy. Chef de Cuisine, Jim Caputo, has carefully selected dishes that reflect Tuscan Italian flavors to complement the wines of the evening. Wine Director Carrie Casagrande of Alma Nove and Director of Italian Wine, Ciro Pirone, from Horizon Beverage, will discuss the featured wines while Chef Jim Caputo will discuss how the Tuscan dishes complement the evening’s wine selection.

Featured wines include:
- Castello di Montauto Vernaccia di San Gimignano
- Nozzole Chianti Classico Riserva
- Frescobaldi Vin Santo

Reservations are required as this is very intimate event limited to 15 people. To reserve a spot, please call 781-749-3353.
Cost: $35 per person + gratuity

Castello di Amorosa: A Taste of Italy in California

How many wineries do you know which possess their own medieval torture chamber? You can find one at Castello di Amorosa in the Napa Valley, a winery with its own authentic Tuscan castle. Maybe they need the rack, iron maiden and other torture implements to handle unruly guests in their tasting room?

The origins of the Castello di Amorosa winery extend back to the late 19th century. In 1885, Vittorio Sattui, an Italian immigrant, established the V. Sattui winery in San Francisco. Prohibition put an end to the winery yet it would be resurrected fifty years later by Dario Sattui, his great grandson, in 1972. Dario reopened V.Sattui in St. Helena and it did well enough that Dario was able to expand. He bought a property in Calistoga in 1993 and then started construction of a Tuscan castle and winery, which opened in 2007.

Castello di Amorosa specializes in Italian style wines, though they make some standard wines too, such as Cabernet Sauvignon and Chardonnay. It is their Italian-style wines though which intrigue me and I recently received some media samples of several of their wines. Unfortunately, their wines may be difficult for others to locate as they only sell them directly to the public. They are not available in wine stores or restaurants, and do not currently ship to Massachusetts. However, these wines are worth seeking out if you can find a means of acquiring them, such as a friend in New Hampshire or Connecticut.

The 2011 Dolcino Gewurtztraminer ($24) is made from 100% Gewurztraminer, a blend of estate fruit and some purchased fruit. The term Dolcino is an Italian diminutive for being "lightly sweet," which reflects the style of this wine. The wine is aged only in stainless steel, has an alcohol content of 12%, and about 1849 cases were produced. This wine has a typical Gewurztraminer profile, both aromas and flavors, but is slightly sweet. It is a well made wine, balanced and complex, and is an excellent companion to spicy Asian fare. It tastes more European than California, and I recommend it.

The Italian word Gioia means Joy and the 2011 Gioia Rosato di Sangiovese ($24) brought me much Joy! This Rosé, made from 100% Sangiovese, was aged only in stainless steel, has an alcohol content of 13.1%, and about 1642 cases were produced. First, the alluring aromas, bright fruits, tantalized my nose and once I tasted it, the melange of complex flavors thrilled my palate. Strawberry, plum, raspberry, cherry, mild citrus and herbal hints. Dry, crisp acidity, and a satisfying finish. An excellent food wine, and something you can enjoy year round. Drink one glass and I bet you finish the entire bottle that same day. Highly recommended.

The 2009 Sangiovese ($30) is a blend of 90% Sangiovese and 10% Merlot, and I had high hopes for this wine after my experience with the Rosato. It didn't let me down. The wine is aged for 18 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.5%, and about 3531 cases were produced. Again, the aromas were seductive, bright cherry, herbs and spices, and it tasted wonderful. A complex blend of flavors, including black cherry, plum, spices, vanilla and mild herbal notes with a tinge of earthiness. A lengthy finish, smooth tannins and a wine that made you crave more and more. It reminded me more of a traditional Sangiovese style than a modern one. Another highly recommended wine.

Castellana means "The Lady of the Castle" and the 2008 La Castellana ($68) is a Super Tuscan-style blend, containing 70% Cabernet Sauvignon, 16% Merlot, and 14% Sangiovese. The wine is aged for 20 months in French oak, has an alcohol content of 14.6%, and about 1634 cases were produced. There are two basic styles of Super Tuscan blends: a Chianti style (heavy on the Sangiovese) and a more Bordeaux style (usually heavier on Cabernet Sauvignon/Merlot). I have a strong preference for the more Sangiovese heavy Super Tuscans, such as the Isole e Olena Cepparello and the Fontodi Flaccianello.

Thus, the Castellana wasn't the type of Super Tuscan that I usually gravitate to, but I found it to be an excellent wine. It is a complex and intense wine, yet the tannins are manageable and it doesn't pulverize you with its flavors. Dark berries, black cherry, a little tartness, a rich spiciness and hints of mocha. A lingering finish is very pleasant, and it probably would be best with a hearty dish, from a juicy steak to a Bolognese Tagliatelle. I would love to see what Castello could do with a more Sangiovese heavy Super Tuscan.

The next time I am in Napa, I will have to visit Castello di Amorosa, to taste more of their wines, and o hopefully catch a peek at their torture chamber.

Sake Statistics: Ups & Downs

"Facts are stubborn, but statistics are more pliable."
--Mark Twain

We all know that statistics may not be reliable and can be twisted and slanted to fit one's point of view. However, they can sometimes be useful for some general observations, especially if the discussion includes numerous facts. I want to present some Sake statistics, to give my readers some general indicators on matters such as the number of Sake breweries, rates of consumption, exports figures, and more. Just understand that some of these figures are tentative and different sources may have different figures. Overall, I believe recent statistics indicate a potentially hopeful future for Sake.

Sake Breweries:
It may surprise you that during the early part of the 19th century, there were over 30,000 Sake breweries in Japan. In comparison, that is greater than the current number of wineries in France, though France is almost twice the size of Japan. However, as the century passed, the number of Sake breweries began to drastically decrease so that by 1923, there were only about 10,000 breweries left. That significant reduction did not slow and by the 1960s, the number of breweries had dropped to around 4000.

Unfortunately, this pattern has continued and several years ago the Sake industry was declared to be a fukyo gyoshu, a depressed industry. As of March 2012, there are approximately 1272 Sake breweries remaining, a decrease of about 30 from 2011. In comparison, California has about 3500 wineries. The number of Sake breweries is now less than 5% of what existed during the early 19th century. There are Sake breweries in all 47 prefectures of Japan, though it is only recently that Kagoshima Prefecture started producing Sake.

Around 310 of the existing breweries, a mild increase since the prior year, produce only tokutei meishō-shu, basically premium Sake. That is a good sign, indicating a slight increase in those breweries that produce only higher quality Sake. As a hopeful and inspiring aside, though a number of breweries in the Tohoku region sustained damage, some seriously, from the earthquake and tsunami of March 2011, none of them closed. It is unknown how much longer this constant decrease in breweries will continue however we can hope that it stops or slows significantly.

Sake Production:
With the decrease in the number of Sake breweries, it is logical that there would be a decrease in Sake production as well. And that has been true until 2011. Prior to 2011, there usually were decreases each year except for the occasional aberration. For example, in 2004, about 524 Million liters were produced and then in 2005, that decreased down to 499M liters. There was an increase in 2006 to 513M liters but 2007 saw another reduction, down to 505M liters. By 2010, annual Sake production was reduced to about 440M liters though 2011 saw a rough 1% increase. Based on incomplete data from 2012, it appears there might continue to be another slight increase. That is hopeful but the increases are so minor that it is far from definitive.

Sake Consumption in Japan:
Accompanying the decrease in production and number of breweries, there has been a continued drop in Sake consumption during at least the last twenty years or so. Since 1989, Sake consumption has decreased by more than half. A portion of the decreased Sake consumption is due to a general decrease in Japanese consumption of all alcohol, also referred to as alcohol-banare. During the last ten years, total alcohol consumption has dropped by about 10%. Though Sake consumption has continued to decrease during the last couple years, the decrease seems less than other alcoholic beverages so it actually is doing better than those other alcohols. Sake currently accounts for about 7% of all alcoholic beverages consumed in Japan.

Part of the reason for the decrease in consumption is that the younger generation often views Sake as an old person's drink. It is not seen as hip or cool. They much prefer beer and whiskey though some Sake breweries have tried to start marketing to these younger people, to put a more hip spin on their products. It remains to be seen how well that marketing will work.

Sake Exports:
Japanese exports of Sake are one of the few areas where constant growth has been seen. Unfortunately, exports only constitute about 2% of production so its significance to the bottom line in Japan is low. However, it seems to possess much potential for growth and could play a far greater role in the future. Due to the growing popularity overseas, Japan might want to devote more efforts to exports.

Back in 1989, the value of imported Sake into the U.S. was only about $6 Million and by 2000, the value had grown to $10.4M. Since then, except for a brief hiccup in 2009, there has been constant growth so that the value of imported Sake in 2011 was approximately $41.7M, a quadruple increase in ten years. That was a record year for imports to the U.S. In fact, 2010 and 2011 were both record years for total Japanese exports of Sake, topping out at about 14M liters. Partial numbers for 2012 seem to indicate this growth will continue.

The U.S. is the primary importer of Japanese Sake, accounting for about 25% of exports, with South Korea in second place and Taiwan in third place. Back in 2007, Taiwan occupied second place and Korea was not even in the top four. However, there was a sudden Sake boom in Korea in 2008 and it has continued since then. I am very pleased that Sake consumption in the U.S. continues to grow, as well as even reach record levels. However, more growth in U.S. Sake consumption is desirable and we need to do all we can to promote it.

The Future:
There are some hopeful signs in these statistics but no guarantees. The best figures, and greatest increases, seem to be exports and Japan should explore raising the percentage of Sake they export, to reach new markets and help their bottom line. That is not going to be easy and companies that assist breweries in export might also do very well. Breweries have to continue marketing Sake within Japan, trying to reach the younger generations so that new generations of consumers will embrace Sake. I will do my part to help promote Sake in the U.S. but many more people are needed to contribute to this effort as well.

Rant: Sandwich Bread, Thin or Thick?

"The bread must be wafer-thin. It is nothing more than a vehicle to convey the filling to the stomach."
--The War & Colonel Warden by Gerald Pawle

Winston Churchill loved to eat and drink, and he possessed some strong opinions in that arena. In addition, Churchill used food and alcohol as a tool of diplomacy.

I have been reading Dinner with Churchill: Policy-Making at the Dinner Table by Cita Stelzer, a fascinating book that details how Churchill used dinner parties, picnics and other food & wine events to further diplomatic ends. The book also details some of his food and drink idiosyncrasies, likes and dislikes, from his great love of Champagne to his sandwich preferences.

Churchill preferred very thin bread on his sandwiches, his focus much more on the fillings, such as roast beef.  Is there a perfect size for sandwich bread? Does it depend on the type, size and nature of the fillings? Or is it all a matter of preference? How does a restaurant decide on the proper size of the bread for their sandwiches?

Based on a quick and unscientific poll, people are divided and it seems it might be more a matter of preference. Some agree with Churchill that the fillings are most important and the bread should be very thin. I am in agreement with those who feel the type of bread is dictated more by the type of sandwich. For example, a grilled cheese sandwich, which might be thin on fillings, needs a thinner bread. Yet a thick cheeseburger needs a thicker bun but not too thick. There should be a proper ratio of filling to bread, and that ratio is somewhat a matter of preference. However, the size of the bread is only one factor and the texture of the bread is important too. A thin slice of a thick textured bread may work as well as a thicker slice of bread with a lighter texture.

Restaurants must find a way to please the vast majority of their customers with their bread to fillings ratio. That is probably a good reason why so many sub shops use a similar sized roll for their sandwiches. And it also probably why so many loaves of sliced bread have very similar sized slices. You can find thick and thin sliced breads, but they are more the exception than the norm. Some restaurants are more apt to take chances with their bread choices, which is riskier as they stand to alienate some sandwich lovers. For example, did they use too big of a roll for their hamburger? Or too little of a bun? Is their grilled cheese much more bread than cheese?

Do you prefer thin bread, like Churchill, or thicker breads? Does it depend on the type of sandwich?

Pairing Cheese & Sake

I love cheese and I am far from alone. Informal polls on Twitter indicate a significant number of people who would prefer a cheese plate to a sweet dessert after dinner. Wine and cheese is often touted as a good pairing but it can present problems. In fact, some people suggest pairing beer with cheese as it entails far less problems. I have a different solution, pairing Sake with cheese.

Cheese has far more problems with red wine as opposed to white, and that is primarily because of the tannins in red wine. Most cheese is salty, which tends to heighten the impact of the tannins, making your mouth extremely dry. Usually that is not a pleasant feeling. To resolve that issue, white wines, which have no tannins, generally pair better with cheeses. Sake, which also has no tannins, avoids this problem with saltiness in cheese. When you consider how well Sake interacts with salty soy sauce, you can understand why cheese doesn't pose a problem to Sake.

Pairing white wines with cheese can be a problem sometimes too. Aged cheeses, which may have strong flavors and are rich in fat, may overwhelm white wines. That is why red wines are sometimes paired with such cheeses, despite the potential salt and tannins issue. Once again, Sake can be the solution as there types of Sake which can handle aged cheeses very well.

As I mentioned in my prior post, The Science of Sake & Food Pairings, Sake has an intriguing chemical composition which allows it to pair well with almost any type of food. Both Sake and cheese contain lactic acid, which means they can possess complementary flavors and aromas. As I mentioned before, Sake is usually rich in umami and that works well with other umami foods, including cheeses. It is usually the aged cheeses which possess the most umami, like a fine Parmesan or aged Gouda.

The diversity of Sake also contributes to its versatility. There are dry Sakes with high acidity which work well with smooth goat cheeses or similar soft, spreadable cheeses. A fresh, bright Namazake would work well in that situation too. An earthy Kimoto or Yamahai, rich in umami goes well with aged cheeses, or even the strong flavors of a blue cheese. Or try an aged Koshu Sake with such cheeses. The sweetness of some Sakes will also work with cheese, helping round out any edges in the cheese. Try a lightly sweet Sparkling Sake, which can work well with cheese like a Sparkling wine might do.

When I have introduced Sake and food pairings to people, they have seem the most surprised, and pleasantly so, by how well Sake and cheese work together. Cheese is certainly not a traditional Japanese food, but that doesn't mean that Sake can't pair well with it. Sake avoids the problems of wine & cheese, as well as possessing its own advantages that make the pairing so effective.

The next time you create a cheese plate for a party, and are looking for a more unique presentation, why not accompany the plate with a few different Sakes and let everyone see how each Sake works with the varied cheeses. I am sure your guests will enjoy the experience, as well as learn something.