Franciacorta: Bubbly That Needs To Be On Your Wine Radar

Franciacorta may be the best sparkling wine that many people know nothing about. 

Though Franciacorta is made in Italy, Prosecco and Asti Spumante are far more popular and well known, monopolizing the spotlight. While working at the wine store, I have had plenty of people ask me about Prosecco, and a few about Asti, but not a single person has ever asked about Franciacorta. It can be difficult to find Franciacorta on local restaurant wine lists or even in wine stores. However, it is worthy of attention, for both its quality and often value pricing. Franciacorta needs to be on your wine radar.

Located in Lombardy, in the province of Brescia, the territory of Franciacorta is a small, hilly region and its history extends back thousands of years. Wine was produced in this region for at least a couple thousand years, and ancient Romans, such as Virgil and Pliny the Elder, wrote about them. Though "Francia" is the Italian term for "France," the name of the region does not apparently derive from this definition. Though there is some disagreement, the name likely derives from the Latin term "curtes francae," which referred to small communities of Benedictine monks who lived near Lake Iseo, and were excused from paying taxes because of their help to the community.

For most of the region's history, still wines were produced, and it was not until the 1960s that sparkling wines start being created. Guido Berlucchi, who owned a winery in Franciacorta, hired Franco Ziliani, a young enologist, to assist with his winery. Franco was full of enthusiasm and ideas, and desired to produce a sparkling wine. Guido allowed him to do so, and in 1961, they produced their first bubbly, Pinot di Franciacorta, which was also the first time that the term "Franciacorta" appeared on a wine label.

The sparkling wine soon became popular, and other local producers started creating their own too, trying to join this new trend. The story of how the creation of this sparkling wine spread is probably quite fascinating. In 1967, the region was awarded DOC status, though that was probably more for their still wines, though by 1983, the DOC rules were revised and referenced sparkling wine.

In 1990, 29 wineries, which made still and sparkling wines, formed the Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta, a voluntary organization to help promote their wines. Five years later, the sparkling wines of Franciacorta received great recognition, being awarded DOCG status, while the still wines were still until under a DOC status called Terre de Franciacorta. However, in 2008, the DOC name was changed to Curtefranca, to further set apart Franciacorta as a special sparkling wine. Today, the Consorzio per la Tutela del Franciacorta has 191 members (growers, wineries and bottlers), and 106 of those produce Franciacorta.

This region has undergone such an amazing transformation in 50 years, starting from nearly scratch to become a high quality producer of sparkling wine. Obviously the terroir plays a significant role, as well as the determination, passion and skill of the winemakers. Their production continues to grow each year, and I am sure their quality will also continue to improve. This is a region to keep your eye on, one which will only become more popular over time.    

Franciacorta is produced in the méthode traditionnelle, similar to Champagne, and is produced from only three grapes: Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and Pinot Bianco. About 82% of their vineyards grow Chardonnay. Unlike in Champagne, the date of disgorgement must be placed on a Franciacorta label, though some Champagne producers are voluntarily listing it on their labels. Some of the aging requirements for Franciacorta are also a bit longer than Champagne.

Franciacorta is produced in a number of styles that are listed in the DOCG regulations, including:
--Franciacorta: Produced with Chardonnay, Pinot Noir and up to 50% Pinot Bianco.
--Franciacorta Saten: Essentially a blanc de blancs, which is usually predominantly Chardonnay but can contain up to 50% Pinot Bianco.
--Rosé: It requires at least 25% Pinot Noir and the rest can be Chardonnay and Pinot Bianco
--Millesimato: This is a vintage wine, and must consist of at least 85% wine from a single growing year. It cannot be released until at least 37 months after harvest.
--Riserva: This is also a vintage wine, and can be a Satèn or Rosé as well. It must have matured sur lie for a minimum of 60 months.

All of these styles will possess a specific dosage level, just like a Champagne, including: No Dosage, Extra Brut, Brut, Extra Dry, Sec/Dry or Demi-sec.

In 2012, almost 14 million bottles of Franciacorta were produced, an increase of 25% from the prior year. Only about 8% of their production is exported though, roughly 1 million bottles. Surprisingly, Japan is their largest import market, purchasing about 28% of their exports. Germany and Switzerland are the next largest importers, with North America in fourth place. So, the fact that only a relatively small amount of Franciacorta arrives in the U.S., contributes to some of its apparent anonymity to the general public. In comparison each year, Americans consume about 100 million bottles of domestic sparkling wine, about 17 million bottles of Champagne and 28 million bottles of other imported sparkling wine. So the few hundred thousand of bottles of Franciacorta that are imported are but a tiny drop in the overall U.S. sparkling wine market.

The connection of Franciacorta and food has significantly helped in its popularity in some circles, including Japan which has a number of Italian restaurants where Franciacorta is celebrated. In Italy, Franciacorta also has a partnership with Slow Food Italia. This could be a key to increasing popularity in the U.S., showcasing Franciacorta's versatility with food, and trying to get it into many more restaurants. I rarely see Franciacorta on wine lists in the Boston area, though know that The Beehive, carries one, the Ca' del Bosco Cuvée Prestige, but on their website, it is not even identified as a Franciacorta.

Tonight, I will be sampling 6 Franciacorta wines, from 6 different wineries, as part of a media Twitter Tasting with some winery representatives participating online as well. I'll be drinking this wines with a few friends, with a variety of foods, also testing the wine's versatility in pairings. Next week, I will likely report back on my reviews of those wines.

The next time you make a brindisi, a "toast," then why not raise a glass of Franciacorta?

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I briefly highlight some interesting wine and food items that I have encountered recently.
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1) On October 18, The James Beard Foundation visits Boston’s Cyclorama at Boston Center for the Arts for “The Chef’s Table,” a provincial-style gala dinner featuring top culinary talent from Boston and beyond. The official kick-off event for Boston’s Taste America event, a weekend of culinary activities celebrating the Hub’s vibrant culinary scene, the evening will begin with 6:00 pm reception featuring signature cocktails and canapés created by a roster of Boston’s top chefs, including Christopher Coombs (Deuxave, Boston Chops); William Kovel (Catalyst) and Robert Sisca (Bistro du Midi).

At 7:00 pm, guests will have the opportunity to sit with Boston’s favorite culinary luminaries for a lavish meal. The five-course menu will highlight the best of Boston’s culinary scene and was created for the evening by James Beard Foundation Award winners and nominees, including Taste America All-Star Michael Voltaggio (ink; Los Angeles, CA), Boston Host Chefs Lydia Shire (Scampo; Boston, MA) and Brooke Vosika (The Bristol Lounge at Four Season Hotel Boston), as well as Will Gilson (Puritan & Company; Cambridge, MA), Joanne Chang (Flour Bakery, Myers & Chang; Boston, MA) and Dante DeMagistris (Restaurant dante; Cambridge, MA).

Cost: Tickets for the public are on sale now at jbftasteamerica.org. The James Beard Foundation is proud to donate a portion of the evening's proceeds to Pine Street Inn.
Ticket options include:
· Chef’s Table: $2,500, includes preferred seating for 10 at dinner with the option to host a Chef at your table, plus reception
· Chef’s Ticket: $250, includes seating at a Chef’s Table for dinner, plus reception
· Taste Ticket: $200, includes dinner and reception

2) In the spirit of Kaizen, the Japanese philosophy that focuses upon continuous improvement, Chef Tony Maws welcomes the Ideas In Food chefs, bloggers, and authors Aki Kamozawa and Alexander Talbot to the Craigie On Main kitchen in celebration of their new book: Maximum Flavor: Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook – on October 15. Celebrated industry innovators, and former Boston chefs, Aki and Alex, specialize in sharing techniques based on a solid understanding that science and technique coupled with high quality ingredients, modern equipment, and innovative approaches to cooking make anything possible.

In Maximum Flavor, Aki and Alex share their innovative yet simple and often surprising approaches to food that will allow real home cooks to take their cooking to a new level. Using everyday ingredients and equipment available to real home cooks, Maximum Flavor turns theory into 125 real recipes, each containing a simple tip for amping up flavor in every day dishes. With 75 color photographs that show both step-by-step processes and finished dishes, Maximum Flavor will encourage you to experiment, taste, and play with your food, and discover again why cooking and eating are so fascinating and fun.

What: A multi-course collaborative dinner event showcasing dishes by acclaimed Chef Tony Maws alongside Ideas in Food’s Aki Kamozawa and Alexander Talbot. Guests can expect a flavor-packed, tasty and forward-thinking meal with equally interesting and delicious wine pairings.

Menu: In true Craigie style, the menu will be released closer to the date of the event, when the chefs know what will be fresh and available

Cost: $125 per person for dinner, including a copy of Maximum Flavor: Recipes That Will Change the Way You Cook. Wine pairings are available for an additional $50 per person (tax and gratuity not included).

Reservations: To make your reservation, please call 617-497-5511

3) On Thursday & Friday, September. 19 & 20, T.W. Food is holding a Festival de la Tomate, a joyous celebration of tomatoes. Each year, T.W. Food is given a wonderful selection of traditional and heirloom tomatoes, a perfect accompaniment to lamb, fresh goat's milk cheese and foie gras - or, in their element, among other farm vegetables.

The Menu includes:
--Local Melon & Tomato Bisque (jonah crab, smoked cherrystones, jamon iberico)
--Salade Compose (warm fried green tomato napoleon, early season squash, yuzu-picholine olive butter, mustard green essence)
--Tomato Tortelloni A La Carbonara (house-cured bacon, rosa bianca eggplant, buratta, pine nut spuma)
--Terre Et Mer (vermont lamb medallion, torchon of smoked eel, ankimo and foie gras, tomato confit)
--Monterey Goat Cheese Sorbet (candy cherry tomato, pistachio brittle, orange flavors)
--Cinnamon Pumpkin Budino (maple and aromatic spiced tomatoes)

A Vegetarian menu is also available.

Cost: $85 for 6 courses, $45 for wine pairings
Reservations: Please call 617-864-4745 to reserve a spot.

4) Raise Your Glass for Jimmy, presented by the Jimmy Fund Council of Greater Boston, will take place in the Main Ballroom of The Liberty Hotel in Boston on September 25 from 6 to 9 p.m.

Admission to the event includes hors d’oeuvres and live music. Enjoy a variety of wines with a good selection of whites and reds to appeal to all palettes. Participating wine vendors include M.S. Walker, Horizon Beverage, Plymouth Bay Winery, Federal Wine & Spirits, Gordon’s Fine Wines & Liquors and August West Wines. All proceeds support adult and pediatric cancer care and research at Dana-Farber Cancer Institute.

This event will also feature a wine drawing (buy a chance for $35 and you are guaranteed a bottle of wine worth at least $25) and a silent auction with a trip to a vineyard in Sonoma, Calif., including airfare, several large format wines, a four-course chef’s tasting menu for four at Strega worth $500, and many other great items.

Tickets for this event are $50 per person, and include a $25 gift certificate for Tresca, donated by Tresca restaurant, for the first 150 guests at the door. Tickets are available at www.jimmyfund.org/raise-your-glass.

5) On Tuesday, September 24, at 7pm, Fromager and Mâitre d’ Louis Risoli is hosting the next installment of Cheese Tuesday at L’Espalier, providing easy commentary, while sommelier Lauren Collins describes the wine. Cheese Tuesday combines wine and cheese in a casual night featuring a three course dinner with paired wines, followed by a grand cheese tasting and musical entertainment. Louis Risoli concludes the evening with an original, cheese inspired sing-a-long to the tune of a pop culture song. One of his renditions being: Don’t Stop Bleu Cheesin’ to the tune of Don’t Stop Believing by Journey.

“Champions of the World” will feature some of the world’s most well-known and beloved cheeses from the latest American Cheese Society’s annual conference, where over 1,200 cheeses competed to be named the top cheese in the country. Louis Risoli will guide guests through a tasting experience that demonstrates why America’s greatest cheeses set world standards for excellence. This Cheese Tuesday is near and dear to Louis, as he is a perennial guest and speaker at cheese conferences nationwide and a veritable encyclopedia about worldwide cheese varietals and culinary cheese trends.

The Cost is $85 person. To reserve a seat, please contact L’Espalier directly at 617-262-3023.

Kanpai! Celebrate Sake Day On October 1

"O what an ugly sight the man who thinks he’s wise and never drinks sake!”
--Otomo no Tabito

It is nearly that time again, the time to embrace and celebrate the multitudinous marvels of Sake. On Tuesday, October 1, raise an ochoko (or wine glass) of Sake and toast Kanpai to Nihonshu no Hi, Sake Day.

Thirty five years ago, in 1978, the Japan Saké Brewers Association declared that October 1 would hence forth be known as Sake Day, a holiday which is now celebrated worldwide, anywhere that Sake is drank and loved. It is much older than nearly all of the "wine grape" days which are now celebrated each year. Will you be celebrating Sake Day too?

Why was October 1 chosen? First, it is partially due to the fact that October is traditionally the start of the Sake brewing season. In addition, the Chinese character for Sake (酒) is very similar to the Chinese zodiac sign for the Rooster (酉), the tenth sign. Thus, the first day of the tenth month, October, became Sake Day.

If you want more information about Sake, you can start at my All About Sake page, which contains over 90 links to Sake educational articles I have written over the years, as well as lists of other Sake resources for additional reading. There are articles on basic Sake info to more detailed articles on pairing Sake with food. You can also check out my Collected Sake Reviews, covering over 125 Sakes. And if you have any Sake specific questions, feel free to drop me an email or contact me online.

If you want some advice on which Sake to buy at your local wine store, please email me a picture of the Sake selection at the local shop, or send me a written list of the bottles they carry. I'll then give you suggestions based on what is available to you. Though I can provide plenty of Sake recommendations without that, what I might recommend might not be available to you. So sending me a picture or list best allows me to customize the recommendations based on what you can buy.

There is another way to celebrate Sake Day which would also make me very happy. You could buy one or both of my Tipsy Sensei books, which are about a Sake expert in Boston who learns that legendary creatures out of Japanese folklore are real. The saga starts in The Tipsy Sensei & Others, which also includes 5 unrelated food/wine short stories, and continues in Demons, Gods & Sake, the first Tipsy Sensei novel. The next novel in the series, Hand Fed Tigers, should be published in October. All of stories have received very good reviews and if you own a computer, you can read the stories through the free Kindle Apps. You do NOT need an actual Kindle to read this stories.

I haven't decided yet how I will celebrate Sake Day, and I am thus still available to assist restaurants, wine shops or others with setting up a Sake Day event. If you are interested, please contact me to discuss. If nothing else, I will probably open a bottle or three of Sake, pairing it with my dinner, sharing the bottles with family and/or friends.

Follow the advice of Otomo no Tabito and be wise by drinking Sake. Will you celebrate Sake Day? If so,what will you do?

Sake, Seafood & Lobster Anywhere

Maine Lobster. There is no substitute.

Those of us who live in New England are a bit spoiled, having many options to find and enjoy Maine lobster, from local restaurants to food markets. We can get it in the shell, or buy just a pound of lobster meat. We can savor it in a lobster roll, lobster bisque or lobster mac n' cheese. Last weekend, I enjoyed a couple lobsters, in the shell, at an end-of-summer party in Ipswich, dipping the sweet meat in melted butter.

For those outside of New England, you can still enjoy Maine lobsters, and other New England seafood favorites, by getting it shipped to you. You'll find plenty of places selling & shipping lobsters and seafood so how do you decide which company to patronize? Not an easy decision. And it won't be cheap either, especially considering shipping costs. However, enjoying a Maine lobster dinner can be such a special experience that it can be worth the cost.

And importantly, what should you drink with your lobster and seafood? Champagne? White wine? Red Wine? Beer? Or maybe even Sake?

Joe Bowab, the CEO of Lobster Anywhere, recently sent me some free lobster and seafood samples and my plan was to pair them with Sake, to show its advantages, as opposed to wine, when paired with seafood. Lobster Anywhere, which has been online since 1999, sells Maine lobsters, and a variety of other seafood, which can be shipped across the country. You can get lobsters in the shell, lobster meat or a number of lobster dishes, such as lobster ravioli. They also sell chowders and soups, crab cakes and scallops & bacon, and much more, including steaks. You can order these as individual items or as part of larger dinner packages.

Prices are not cheap, but when they are compared to other, similar companies, their pricing is probably around average, with some items cheaper while others a bit more expensive. What will help differentiate these companies then is quality and service. With some online research, I found only a single complaint about LobsterAnywhere's service, and it appeared more an honest mistake than indicative of any endemic problem. I also found plenty of very positive feedback about the company which is reassuring.

I received some frozen lobster tails, clam chowder & scallops wrapped in bacon. They were delivered on time, and packed well to ensure everything remained frozen. Accompanying the seafood was a small, helpful guidebook of cooking advice and recipes. The lobster tails were fresh frozen, not pre-cooked, and only needed about four minutes of steaming to be ready to eat. I kept it simple, enjoying the lobster with melted butter, though it could have been used in a variety of recipes. The clam chowder came in a 20 ounce Cryovac pouch which just needed to be heated in boiling water for 10-12 minutes. The scallops just needed to be cooked in the oven for 10-15 minutes. As you can see, preparation for these items was simple and relatively quick.

As for the taste, I was satisfied and had no complaints. The lobster tasted as if it came right out of the shell, with a nice sweetness to the meat. You would never know that it had been frozen to any degree. The clam chowder was flavorful, with just the right amount of thickness, and it was certainly a chowder I would order again. The large scallops were tender and meaty, the salty bacon adding a nice component to the sweeter scallops. LobsterAnywhere showed me the quality of their products.

What alcohol should you drink with seafood? White wine seems the default, and traditional, pairing choice for seafood, though plenty of people now support red wine as a valid pairing as well. However, there is a potential problem with pairing wine, especially red, with seafood and that is sometimes the wine makes your seafood have an off putting, fishy taste to it. Good seafood shouldn't possess a fishy taste and any wine that causes such a taste is a terrible pairing.

Japanese researchers have determined that the iron content in some red wines is one of the culprits responsible for that fishy taste. If the iron content of your wine is more than 2 milligrams per liter, then your seafood is likely to taste fishy. The iron content depends on many factors, from the vineyard soil to conditions during fermentation but a consumer has really no way to know how much iron is in their wine, so pairing a red wine with seafood is always a risk. Scallop is one of those seafoods which is especially prone to acquiring a fishy taste, and if I had paired my scallops & bacon with a red wine, I risked a fishy taste.

Though white wine generally doesn't have the same issue with iron, they also can create a fishy taste in some seafood. Sulfites in wine, both white and red, may contribute to a degradation of unsaturated fatty acids, which can also lead to that off-putting fishy taste. More study is still needed of that phenomenon, as well as determining any other reasons for why white wine sometimes creates that fishy taste. Instead of pairing seafood with wine, you might want a safer alcohol, one which possesses great diversity and taste. Like Japanese Sake.

Why is Sake such a great match for seafood? Traditionally, the food that commonly accompanied Sake was known as sakana, and seafood was a major component, from raw fish to dried seafood. Historically, the Japanese people understood that seafood made for an excellent pairing with Sake. In addition, Sake is a diverse beverage, that ranges from dry to sweet, herbal to fruity, elegent to rich, and much more. That means there is a Sake that will fit any type of seafood, from oysters to crab, sea urchin to tuna. In addition, there is logic and science supporting this pairing.

First, Sake possesses no sulfites, which avoids one of the potential problems that faces wines and seafood. Without those sulfites, there is much less worry of your seafood acquiring a fishy taste. Second, Sake is made from rice, where water is far more important than soil. In general, Japan's water is more soft than hard, meaning there is much less iron in their water. In addition, iron adversely affects Sake, and can turn it a reddish brown while compromising its aroma and taste. As such, Sake brewers only use water with a minuscule amount of iron, far less than the amount that would cause fishy problems like red wine.

Third, Sake possesses twenty amino acids, more than any other alcohol and seven times more than red wine. Some of these amino acids help to neutralize fishy flavors in seafood, as well as gamey flavors in meat. So, Sake also takes a proactive role in reducing such off-putting flavors, something wine does not do. Not only does Sake avoid problems like sulfites and iron, it also makes an effort to reduce potential fishiness. It is important to note that cooking seafood and meat in Sake will have that same effect, to help mute fishy and gamey flavors.

Sake possesses a high level of the amino acid, glumatic acid, which creates the taste of umami, that savoriness which you also find in foods like ripe tomatoes and parmesan cheese. Wine possesses glutamic acid, but to a far lesser level than Sake. In general, the wine with the highest amount of glutamic acid might, at best, reach the level of the Sake with the lowest amount of glutamic acid. Pairing Sake with other foods that possess umami can make for an excellent combination, especially if the food possesses umami from a source different from glutamic acid. Lobster contains lots of glutamic acid and scallops have a fair share as well, so they go well with Sake.

Besides glutamic acid, umami can also be caused by inosinate and guanylate, two nucleotides. Thus, the pairing of Sake with foods containing inosinate or guanylate creates a synergistic effect that intensifies that umami taste, an ultra-savoriness. Tuna, mackerel and sardines all contain relatively high amounts of inosinate while shrimp and cod have significant amounts too. Smaller amounts of inosinate can also be found in snow crab, sea urchin and nori. Plus, snow crab and nori have small amounts of guanylate. They make for excellent pairings with Sake.

For my seafood feast, I drank two different Sakes, both Junmai, feeling that the richness of the Sake would especially go well with the rich lobster. The Kaguyahime Junmai was produced by the Yamamoto Honke which was founded in 1677 in Kyoto. It was made with Biwaminori rice, milled to 60%, and it has a Sake Meter Value (SMV) of -2, meaning it might have a hint of sweetness. It only has an alcohol content of 14.5% and the label states the Sake even goes well with "butter sauted asparagus." This Sake is made from soft spring water called Shiragikui, which translates as "water of white chrysanthemum."

This Sake is smooth and light, with subtle flavors of melon, pear and mild honey notes. It is not as rich as many other Junmai Sakes, but was still able to hold up to the lobster. It would be a nice introduction for those unfamiliar with Sake, though Sake lovers will enjoy it as well. It went well with all of the seafood, and it didn't cause any fishy tastes. I bet this would also be an excellent pairing with briny oysters.

The Ichishima Junmai was produced by the Ichishima Brewery, which was founded in 1790, and is located in the Niigata Prefecture. In 1976, Ichishima became the first Sake brewery to employ licensed female toji, brew masters, though they had been employing women in other positions since 1965. It was made with a blend of Gohyakumangoku and Koshiinuki rice, milled to 65%, and it has a Sake Meter Value (SMV) of +4, meaning it tends to be dry. It has an alcohol content of 14.9% and its label states it is a great match with "richer, heavier fish, as well as sea urchin."

This was a more typical Junmai, with a richer texture, though still a crisp and smooth taste. The taste was a melange of pleasant flavors, including melon and apple, with hints of smoke and minerality. This was also an excellent pairing for the seafood, and there were absolutely no problems with fishiness. The richness of this Junmai and the lobster were heavenly, and it also stood up well to the clam chowder, with its blend of spices. Another winner.

“O what an ugly sight the man who thinks he’s wise and never drinks sake!”
--Ōtomo no Tabito

When you are enjoying seafood, you should consider pairing it with Sake, which offers advantages over wine pairing. You will have a reduced chance of negative, fishy tastes and there will be an enhanced savoriness to the pairing. Don't be intimidated by Sake, and instead learn about its wonders. In the end, you will find a new favorite.

Rant: Should We Take Fish Lessons From Maine?

Maine is a popular dining destination for seafood, especially lobster, and some exceptional restaurants can be found in Maine, in places such as Portland and Ogunquit. It also appears that Maine might be able to give Massachusetts some lessons in seafood, and not just in recipes.

However, let us first consider the fact that cod is getting more difficult to find on restaurant menus, as well as more expensive. That is partially due to the recent, significant catch reductions put in place by the New England Fishery Management Council (NEFMC). Two of their cuts included a 77% reduction on the Gulf of Maine cod limits and a 61% reduction on Georges Bank cod limits. The Council based the need for these cuts on scientific evidence that assessments of these species are at record lows. What are consumers to do?

As I wrote back in February, "People need to diversify their taste and embrace the less common fish available, which usually are less expensive and more sustainable." Doing this would not only help rebuild dwindling fish stocks, but would also aid fishermen who have had difficulty selling some of these less popular fish. These underutilized fish can be used to prepare a variety of tasty seafood dishes, and consumers would enjoy these fish if they only gave them a chance.

Maybe we need to take an example from a number of Maine restaurants which are addressing this very issue. The Gulf of Maine Research Institute has created a program called Out Of The Blue, "...to build markets for underutilized and under-appreciated Gulf of Maine species." With nearly 40 participating restaurants and food service companies, the program consists of 10 day promotions of specific species of local seafood on their menus. In 2013, the promotions included redfish, mackerel, dogfish, whiting and pollock. The next promotion will be held September 13-22, to promote whiting.

This program has even led to at least one Maine restaurant, the Inn By The Sea, to now serve only 100% Gulf of Maine seafood. This helps sustainability and local fishermen. As the U.S. imports a stunning 91% of the their seafood, any restaurant that supports only local seafood is doing a great job at supporting local fishermen and worthy of our support.

I would love to see a similar program instituted in Massachusetts, to see dozens of local restaurants uniting to promote underutilized seafood in weekly promotions. It would be easy enough to do. The hardest part is the will of the restaurants to take that step, and then the will of the public to support the promotions by patronizing the restaurants and supporting the use of those fish. We already have restaurants that promote sustainable seafood, and they would be the best at organizing at promotions of these underutilized fish.

So which Massachusetts restaurants are brave enough to take the first steps to such a program of weekly promotions for underutilized fish?