Rant: Planning Ahead & Being Spontaneous

If you're traveling to another city, do you plan ahead, researching the restaurants, bars, wine shops, bakeries, and other such places that you want to visit? Or do you prefer to be spontaneous and simply wander around, hoping to find places of interest? I know travelers on both sides of this issue though my own position is closer to a middle ground, trying to avoid the disadvantages of each choice while gaining the benefits of both.

For example, last week I traveled to Chicago, for the first time in over twenty years, for a couple of days with a very good friend. As it was a short trip, I knew we needed to pack as much as possible into our brief time. For me, that entailed researching Chicago, learning the names of some of the most interesting restaurants, bars, and such. With that information, I had a solid foundation for the exploration of Chicago, having located places which appealed to our interests and preferences. Chicago is a very big city so we would never have just stumbled upon all of those places on our own.

We had lots of luck with the places I researched and then visited, from QXY Dumplings, a killer soup dumpling spot, to Motomaro, an amazing Japanese restaurant. And with my preplanning, we were able to set up a restaurant crawl for one evening, dining at three restaurants for dinner, each place about a block or so away from each other. Simply wandering around might not have led us to these three restaurants.

However, some spontaneity and flexibility was warranted as well. We didn't preplan every minute we'd be in Chicago, leaving open time to explore the city. After enjoying a delightful lunch at QXY Dumplings, we wandered around Chinatown and stumbled upon a bakery that sold Pork Belly Cookies! I never saw anything in my researches about those cookies in Chicago. Later, we stopped at a wine & spirits store and received a recommendation to check out a nearby wine bar & restaurant, Income Tax, which turned out to be a very cool spot. And at Income Tax, we received another excellent recommendation, to Estereo, a great bar with plenty of Pisco, Mezcal, Cachaca, Tequila and other similar spirits.

If we had been rigid in our plans, we never would have encountered those spots. And only a balanced approach, of both prior research & planning, mixed with some spontaneity, would have led to the best results. I spoke to someone else who was visiting Chicago at the same time as us, and they were amazed at all the places we had visited, places she knew nothing about. Her own experiences, which seemed based almost entirely on spontaneity without any preplanning, weren't as successful.

We had an amazing time in Chicago, filling both days with lots of incredible food and drink. In the near future, I will be writing much more detail about my travels to Chicago. If you travel, I highly recommend you do your research first, and then ensure you allow time to be spontaneous, to wander around seeing what you might find.

Thursday Sips & Nibbles

I am back again with a new edition of Thursday Sips & Nibbles, my regular column where I highlight some interesting, upcoming food & drink events.
**********************************************************
1) Slated to open late next month, Bodega Canal will bring elevated Mexican fare and flare to the TD Garden neighborhood. Owner of North End gastropub Ward 8 and newcomer North Square Oyster, Nicholas Frattaroli aims to elevate Mexican dining with the “rustic luxe” concept. Bodega Canal will offer an alternative to the sports bar-heavy neighborhood with a fresh, lively destination for guests to enjoy a delicious meal, pre- or post-game drink, or fun night out on the town.

Helmed by Chef Kenny Schweizer, who also oversees the kitchen at Frattaroli’s Ward 8., Bodega Canal’s menu will offer a variety of house-made guacamoles, appetizers, tortas, salads, entrées, and, of course, plenty of classic and reimagined tacos. Menu highlights will include: Mole Short Rib with dirty rice and roasted green beans; Buttered Lobster Tacos with butter-poached lobster, grilled corn pico de gallo, cojita; and ancho crema, and Queso Fundido with chorizo and poblano rajas.

Ward 8’s General Manager Mike Wyatt will oversee the bar program as beverage manager to develop a creative, carefully curated cocktail, beer, and wine menu. With a full liquor license, Bodega Canal will serve up a wide variety of options including: a variety of margaritas; three frozen drink options; red, white, and rosé sangria; signature cocktails; shareable drinks; South American and Spanish wines; Mexican soft drinks; Mexican coffees; and domestic and foreign beers available by draft or the bottle.

“Always having loved Mexico’s cuisine and its rich culture, our team is excited to open a space that celebrates the vibrancy and boldness of Mexican flavors and dishes. In an area brimming with sports bars, we’re looking forward to bringing a fresh, new, sophisticated concept to Canal Street. We felt there was a need for a really great quality restaurant and bar that offers guests a fun atmosphere as well as elevated food and drink; we hope Bodega Canal meets that need!" says Frattaroli.

Located at 57 Canal St., Boston, MA, Bodega Canal will be open daily. The bar will be open Sunday through Wednesday from 11:30 to 1 a.m., and Thursday through Saturday from 11:30 to 2 a.m. Lunch will be served daily from 11:30 a.m. to 3 p.m. Dinner will be served Sunday through Thursday from 5 to 10 p.m. and Friday and Saturday from 5 to 11 p.m. Weekend brunch service will begin at a later date. For more information, please visit www.bodegacanal.com

2) Every Tuesday, from 11am-6pm, Temazcal Tequila Cantina in Lynnfield will celebrate Taco Tuesday. They will offer handcrafted tacos for ½ off, for lunch or early dinner and drinks. Choose from any of Temazcal’s tacos, served with Mexican rice and black beans, including: grilled vegetable tacos, grilled chicken tacos, fish tacos, lettuce wrap Ahi Tuna tacos, lettuce wrap grilled salmon tacos, Asada skirt steak tacos, or tacos mechados (braised short ribs).

3) Executive Chef Matt Drummond, Bar Manager Kaitlyn Fischer, and the crew at Loco Taqueria & Oyster Bar welcome autumn with a special fall Columbus Day edition of brunch on Monday, October 9, from 10am-3pm.

Executive Chef Matt Drummond will be dishing out Loco’s signature brunch items like Avocado Toast (marble rye, aji Amarillo goat cheese, smoked mahi mahi, avocado), the decadent PB&J French Toast (peanut butter & berry jam stuffed, banana foster sauce, spiced peanuts), savory Cubano (carnitas, tasso ham, queso, house pickles, special sauce) and other fall-inspired specials.

Those looking for a liquid brunch can keep the weekend going with signature cocktails from Bar Manager Kaitlyn Fischer, including the cult-favorite Coco Margarita and a variety of other seasonal sippers.

4) On Thursday, October 12, from 7pm-9pm, Tavolo Ristorante will host a Mushroom Dinner Extravaganza. Chef Eric will present each course and Dunk, from Dunks Mushroom Products & Foraging LLC, will also join in to showcase a selection of mushrooms and products that he cultivates locally, and that we take pride in cooking.

The Menu:
1st Course: Wild Mushroom Bruschetta - black stainer foccacia, Langwater Farm garlic, local quail eggs, italian black truffles
2nd Course: Lacto Salad - mixed mushroom conserva, lacto green beans, Judy's greens, housemade black garlic, mushroom jerky
3rd Course: Beef Tartar - king of the woods crown, farm shallots, herbs, dandilion mustard
4th Course: Chitarra Ramen - serrano chili, chitarra, wild sassafras and umami broth, jenny's duck eggs, shroom accutrements
5th Course: Chaga Panna Cotta - matsutake, maple gummies, vanilla and pine froth

With complimentary amuse bouche and tea course! Menu subject to change. Vegetarian option available.

Cost: $50 per person. Drink pairings for an additional $30.
Limited spots available so get your tickets now at Eventbrite.

5) Culinary creativity is nothing new for Chef Leo Asaro who has been Chef de Cuisine at Michael Schlow’s Latin-inspired eatery Tico since 2014.

This Fall, Asaro’s bringing something new to Tico's table with “Leo’s Lab” - an interactive dining experience where guests get a front row seat for the appetizing action of Asaro’s artistry at Tico's intimate chef counter. From cocktail concoctions to delectable dishes, “Leo’s Lab” is a culinary journey through bites, sips and anecdotes and an unmatched celebration of sensory stimulation.

"Leo’s Lab" will be in business on select Tuesday and Wednesday evenings with one 6:30 pm seating for up to 8 guests. Tickets are $75 per person (not including taxes or gratuity), and include a welcome sip of champagne, one cocktail creation, five savory courses and a dessert finale served with a side of friendly banter with fellow guests and a culinary discussion throughout the meal with Asaro himself.

This series kicked off on October 3rd and upcoming dates include:
Tuesday, October 3
Wednesday, October 18
Wednesday, November 8
Tuesday, November 28
Tuesday, December 5
Tuesday, December 19

Asaro has spent over a decade mastering his culinary craft and coming up with fun, new ways to engage diners. The Johnson and Wales graduate studied under Chef Daniel Boulud before finding a home in Schlow’s restaurant group. Impressed with his skills and ability to design beautiful dishes, Schlow brought Asaro up the ranks from Sous Chef of his renowned restaurant Radius, to Executive Chef of beloved Via Matta, and eventually to his current post at Tico in the Back Bay.

For tickets and more information on Leo’s Lab, visit http://www.ticoboston.com/leo-s-lab.

6) You may already be aware of the famed Craigie Burger – but did you know that you can enjoy it this Friday for lunch at Craigie On Main? You can also pair it with a beer from Exhibit A Brewing. Tony Maws started this once a month Craigie Burger & Beer event in the summer with Notch Brewing, and cooked for sold-out crowds. So this fall he is welcoming Exhibit A Brewery to Cambridge on October 6, November 3 and December 8. Mark your calendars now, these lunch events sell out!

Date: Friday, October 6
Time: 11:30am – 2:00pm
Price: $18.00 / Craigie Burger. Your choice of beverage is not included in the $18
To make Reservations, go to this : Eventbrite Link:
https://www.eventbrite.com/e/burger-lunch-at-craigie-on-main-with-exhibit-a-tickets-38202200811

Compass Box: Blending Whisky Like An Italian Chef

How do you blend Whisky like an Italian chef? That might seem to be an odd comparison but once you understand it, you'll embrace the concept.

Compass Box Whisky, established in 2000, produces and bottles a wide range of blended Scotch whiskies. At a recent tasting class at Redstone Liquors, two representatives of Compass Box Whisky led us through a tasting of 6 whiskies, explaining about the company and its philosophy. The representatives included Scott Ellis, the U.S. Western Regional Manager, and Kerrin Egalka, the U.S. Northeast Regional Manager. It was a fun, educational and tasty event, presenting a compelling comparison tasting, topped off by one of their high-end, limited edition offerings.

Compass Box was founded by an American, John Glaser, who once worked for Johnnie Walker. Glaser felt that too many Scotch companies were operating in the same way and he wanted to do something different, choosing to reach into the past and emulate some of the old whisky blending houses. Compass Box remains a small company, with only about 15 employees, and purchases high-quality distillates from numerous Scotch distilleries, blending the distillates as well as sometimes aging them further.

The company has five core beliefs which guide their operations and production. First, "Blending is a platform for creativity. A well-made Scotch whisky blend, made from excellent component whiskies, is something no single distillery can create, and can rival the complexity of the very best of single malt whiskies." Scott Ellis stated that their blending is conducted as if they were an Italian chef, meaning that they use only a small amount of high-quality ingredients, blending them carefully so that you can detect each component in the whole. Compass Box commonly blends only 2-4 high-end whiskies rather than dozens of different ones, so you can discern the individual characteristics of each specific whisky.

I've long said that blending is an art form, and that blenders, in both the wine and spirits worlds, don't receive as much attention or kudos as they deserve. It is also compelling to see the efforts of Compass Box as akin to an Italian chef. If you've been to Italy, you know that many of their best dishes are simply prepared, using the highest quality ingredients, and such dishes can taste amazing. This whisky blending isn't like the preparation of many stews and soups, where a large assortment of ingredients are added, and often using just what is available, even if it isn't high quality. Give me simplicity and high quality any time.

Second, "Good oak rules. Up to 70% of the flavour in mature Scotch whisky comes from the interaction of the spirit with the cask it is aged in. You can only create a great whisky when you use great wood." The barrel is twice as important as the base spirit, and is truly the "unsung hero" of the production process. That again is something I have written about before, emphasizing the integral nature of barrels. Compass Box takes great care to purchase only the best barrels, to ensure their final product is excellent. It is also why they have chosen to undergo a second maturation, a finish barrel, for some of their whisky.

Third, "Good whiskies don’t need age statements. We believe whisky quality is determined by flavour and character, not by an age statement. There is no short-hand for quality in Scotch. Age statements can be a red herring." Some people certainly fall into the assumption that older Scotch is better, but that certainly is not the case. The taste of the Scotch should be the definitive factor, not merely its age.

Fourth, "Whisky should be bottled without chill-filtering and at its natural colour. Unlike most Scotch whisky producers, we see no reason to artificially colour our whiskies, or to strip away mouthfeel by chill-filtration. These are cosmetic steps we never take." This is a position I've started to see more and more with some of the smaller whisky producers, trying to maintain the natural nature of the whisky, without doing anything to its color or mouthfeel.

Fifth, "Drink good whisky any way you like. No rules. Good whisky can be enjoyed neat, with water, ice, mixers, in a culinary cocktail or paired with foods. There are no rules. Simply share and enjoy." This is another issue I fully agree with, and have written as much previously. Simply enjoy whisky as you life as we all have our personal preferences. Don't let someone else tell you how you must enjoy your Scotch.

Compass Box makes three different types of blends, Blended Scotch Whisky, Blended Malt, and Blended Grain, and their portfolio is basically broken down into the Signature Range, Great King Street, and Limited Editions. The Great King series was inspired by recipes from 19th century distillers, and includes two whiskies, the Artist's Blend and Glasgow Blend. It was the Artists Blend which was the focal point of our tasting, the control for our experimental tasting.

The Artists's Blend is the base whisky for their new Marrying Cask program the pilot which launched last year in Massachusetts. Using the Artists' Blend, they did a second maturation, a marrying of sorts, in four different types of barrels. One whisky with five different expressions. Only three barrels of these casks were imported into the U.S. and Massachusetts is the only state which received all four marrying casks. Other states only received one or two different types, so we were very lucky to have the opportunity to sample all four.

The base Artist's Blend is a blend of 46% Lowland Single Grain Whisky, 29% Northern Highland Single Malt, 17% of a different Northern Highland Single Malt, and 8% Speyside Single Malt. It was also matured in 75% First Fill American Oak barrels, 17% New French Oak, and 8% First Fill Sherry Butt. (Note: The "Sherry" butts come from Bodegas José y Miguel Martin, located in Huelva, which is actually located outside the legal Sherry region. As such, their products are not technically Sherry.)

The Artist's blend is bottled at 43% ABV and uses about 50% malt whisky, which is higher than the 30% that many other blends use. Grain whisky is inexpensive so the large producers tend to use more grain than malt, which also diminishes the character of the whisky which comes more from the malt. I found the Artists's Blend to be a pleasing blend of fruit, spice and a touch of smoke, more apple pie and fall spices with hints of vanilla and cinnamon. Easy drinking and it would do well on its own or in a cocktail.

We then proceeded to taste the four different Marrying Casks ($49.99/bottle), each which uses the Artist's Blend and simply ages it for a second maturation in a different type of barrel. Despite the fact that each uses the same whisky, they are distinctively different, the second maturation, about 6-12 months, bringing out a significant change in the flavor profile of the whisky. It was a fascinating comparison tasting, and all of the attendees had their own personal favorite.

The first marrying cask involved a barrel which previously stored Lowland Grain Whisky. This created a lighter style whisky, more elegant and delicate, with a lightly sweet taste and vanilla accents.

The next marrying cask used barrels which had previously aged Highland Malt Whisky. This whisky had a strong, fruity nose with lots of berries and tropical fruit on the palate. There were vanilla accents and subtle spice notes but this whisky was all about the fruit. Quite delicious!

The third marrying cask used "Sherry" butts which previously had aged Highland Malt whisky.  This whisky though did evidence some typical Sherry aromatics, as well as some saline notes on the palate. There were some red fruit notes as well, a mild sweet tang, and a lengthy finish. Very tasty.

The final marrying cask was conducted in a barrel previously used to age the Oak Cross Malt blend, a type of hybrid barrel with both French and American oak. This whisky had a fruity aroma but on the palate, it was more spice and cream, with subtle hints of berries and vanilla. It wasn't as fruity as the second marrying cask but delicious in its own way

Overall, all four marrying casks were compelling for their unique flavor profiles and which will appeal to you depends on your own personal preferences. The second marrying cask might have squeaked out as my personal favorite, but it probably would depend on my mood on any specific day.

Finally, we tasted one of their limited edition, higher-end whiskies, the Double Single ($152-$175). The concept of this whisky was to "find complexity within simplicity." As such, it is a blend of only two whiskies, 72% Glen Elgin Single Malt (aged in re-charred hogshead bourbon barrels) and 28% Girvan Single Grain (aged in re-charred bourbon barrels). This is the third time this whisky, with a 46% ABV, has been released, and only about 5800 bottles were produced and bottled in March 2017.

The Double Single was superb, a silky smooth, complex and well-balanced whisky with a fascinating melange of flavors. There were hints of vanilla and caramel, berries and tropical fruit, herbs and spices. Each sip seemed to bring something new to my palate. Ellis mentioned it reminded him of Werther's Original candies and I could see the connection. This is definitely a whisky that probably is best served on its own and not mixed in a cocktail, where it may lose some of its complexity. If you want a superb whisky, then you won't go wrong buying a bottle of the Double Single.

Overall, Compass Box Whisky is producing plenty of delicious and intriguing blended whiskies. The company has an excellent philosophy and I love the idea of them equating their blending to that of an Italian chef. With a range of price points, you should be able to find something from their portfolio that appeals to your preference and wallet/pocket book.

Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Sake: A Little Bit Of Heart & Soul

"Oh, won't you stay and try to:
Give a little bit of heart and soul.
Give a little bit of love to grow.
Give a little bit of heart and soul,
And don't you make me beg for love."
--T'Pau

For World Sake Day, on October 1, I chose to open a new bottle to me, the Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto "Heart and Soul" Junmai Sake ($29.99), which I previously purchased at Astor Wine & Spirits. It turned out to be an excellent choice, a perfect way to celebrate the holiday.

The Sohomare Brewery is a small, family-owned Sake kura which was founded by the Jono family in 1872 in the Tochigi Prefecture. Tochigi is located in the northern Kanto region and is surrounded by a continuous mountain range to the east, north and west. The brewery is well known for its use of the highest quality Yamadanishiki rice as well as its use of the traditional Kimoto method of production. This Sake isn't an exception.

The Sohomare Tokubetsu Kimoto Junmai is made from the the highest quality Designation A Yamadanishiki rice, harvested from the Yokawa and Tojo regions of Hyogo Prefecture. The rice has been polished down to 60%, which would normally qualify it as a Ginjo but they do not label this Sake as such. It is a Tokubetsu though, which means it is special in some way, and its higher polishing rate is likely the reason for that designation.

It is also brewed using the Kimoto method, which entails creating a yeast starter in a waist-high tank and then mixing it with large oar-like poles, a lengthy and laborious process. Natural lactic acid will fall into the tank, though more modern methods simply add commercially created lactic acid. Using natural lactic acid takes longer and it is riskier. The brewery states it takes about 15-18 days longer for them to create Sake with the Kimoto method. Kimoto Sake can be more rich and complex, and sometimes also has a gamier/earthy taste.

As it is a Kimoto, its acidity is also high, at 1.8, and its Sake Meter Value is +5, meaning it tends to be a bit dry. As a Junmai, it is made from only four ingredients, including rice, water, yeast and koji-kin. This was a compelling Sake, a mellow and smooth-drinking Sake with lots of acidity and delicious umami. It has a richness to the mouthfeel, a lengthy and satisfying finish, and is something I could sit and drink all day. There is a mild earthiness to the Sake which enhances the totality. A well-made and delicious Sake, it gets my highest recommendation, especially considering its very reasonable price point.

This would be an excellent pairing with umami dishes, especially mushroom or truffle-based ones, and would also go well with various meats. I enjoyed the Sake with a couple pulled pork sandwiches, the slightly spicy sauce working well with the Sake. This would also work well with oysters and fried clams. Kanpai!

Rant: Don't Forget Those Less Fortunate

Now that October has begun, you're probably already looking forward and thinking about the upcoming holidays, starting to make preliminary plans for the fine foods & drinks that you will enjoy and share with family and friends. You might be perusing cookbooks or websites to locate decadent recipes to thrill your guests. You might be planning which expensive wine to uncork for your special friends. You might be pondering which pricey gifts to purchase for your family and friends. It can be a time of gluttony and excess, of greed and hedonism.

However, stop and ponder another significant thought: Don't forget those less fortunate. Let us work together to help those who need some assistance, even if it requires a little sacrifice on our part. Make this a meaningful holiday season, rather than a selfish one.

Though many of us love and enjoy the holiday season, it can be a very sad and disappointing time for those with little or nothing. Every community has some people who find it difficult merely to pay for basic essentials, let alone to buy holiday gifts or prepare a special holiday feast. We can help though, and try to bring some joy to the less fortunate. Share your largess with others, helping those who truly need it.

This year has also been especially devastating for many people due to terrible weather and calamities, from hurricanes to earthquakes, from Puerto Rice to Mexico, Texas to the Virgin Islands. Some of the affected lack even basic food and water and desperately need assistance. They aren't looking forward to the holidays but rather are living day to day, hoping for the basic essentials. They need our help right now.

Even though these are tough economic times for many of us, we all probably can help out others, even if only in little ways. If you cannot spare money, then donate your time, maybe spending it at a food bank or shelter. Or make something to give to others, such as baking a pie, cookies or casserole. Donate old clothes or other durable items which you no longer use. There are many different ways to help out others besides just monetary donations.

During this season, there will be numerous restaurants, chefs, shops and others which will hold special charitable events. Talk about these events, promote them on social media, and spread the word far and wide. Attend those events, encouraging others to do the same. Give to your favorite charities, whatever they might be. I want to hear about your charitable efforts to help those less fortunate. Be creative in your efforts, even if your own finances are tight. That would be the best gift I could receive from my readers, the knowledge that you have all helped out those less fortunate.

I will do my own part to help the less fortunate, to share what I possess. Year round, I promote numerous food and wine-related charitable events and probably will promote even more this season. I will give to several charities as well, even if I only can give small amounts, to those which are personally close to my heart. I will try to help in a number of different ways and I strongly encourage all of my fellow bloggers to do the same this season.

Let us share with all during this upcoming holiday season.